Kohler Engine Teardown and Crankshaft Mods,
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I was given a bunch of junked kohler 2 cylinder command engines and we were able to save one, lets take the rest of what was left and see if we can connect the two crankshafts together making a v4 engine,
Darren, if you dont watch Cutting Edge Engineering you should. Kurt is a very knowledgeable machinist and welder. You could take some of his experience and add it to your tool box. Your ingenuity with solving problems is remarkable. Thanks for your videos i look forward to them.
Or at the other end of the size spectrum, Joe Pi. Incredible machinist.
Yeah, Kurt is probably the best machinist / equipment mechanic on YT.
You're absolutely spot on, 180 degree crank offset is basically as smooth as you can get with a V4. Also has the perk of sounding like a mini-V8!
Nice view of the econoline at 11:30 . I miss seeing progress about it.
Wonderful video! Something that helps me contain a mess is setting the engine on a large cookie sheet while I'm tearing it apart. Then you can just dump into a bucket and it doesn't go all over the table
Another great start to my Sunday. Loving this series, you are getting everything you can out of those engines !!
I'm so confused on this one. I'm not a mechanic but love to watch an engineer at work and to see the outcome. Can't wait!!
I was a head Mechanic/Shop Supervisor for a rather large Tree and Lawn Service in a former life.
Lawn mowers quite often slide off a steep ditch, or into a water trap on a golf coarse, or off a sea wall into a lake or ocean.
I'd say that second motor went swimming and they swapped it out under warranty or just because it was high-ish hours anyways-
The watery oil- the White corrosion inside all the cyl fins, and MASSIVE rust and shit fucked up under the cast iron flywheel is the main suspects
Drill Bit TIPS are hard, the other end that you chuck on called the shank is SOFT
the GIBS on the cross slide of your old tired lathe are loose as hell, you need to adjust the allen screws and get that tighter, also looks like the tool height was too high
As a former machinist that used to machine hardened material normally you would use ceramic inserts to cut it but since you were just cutting on the shank of the drill where it is not as hard as the cutting end you can and get by with just using carbide.
Great idea, but Musties lathe is a bit under powered for indexable carbide inserts, you need at least 10 hp for those.
that is the most beautiful background. a Econoline truck !
A fantastic way to start my day! Thank you for another superb video-really appreciate it
I wish I had the time and knowledge to do these things . What a job Darren has.
Looking forward to next week. Same Bat time, same Bat channel.
Once you get it mounted on a flat surface you can get some shim material and get the shafts tuned in closer. Good job with the machine work.
Very creative solution as usual Darren! Looking forward to part 2! Thanks for posting and take care!
I would love to have a stash pile like yours. I noticed you were channeling your inner Curtis from CEE.. lol.
Man I remember when you posted your twin motor motorized stingray on the bike group I used to have. You never stop with these crazy contraptions huh.
Morning Mustonians!!
mustonian institute
Mustie University Alumni reunion today.
The Royal Mustonian Institute.
King Charles is a subscriber.
Let's face it he's got nothing better to do.
Love it 😂
Magna cum mustie
Looks great and the thing is going to be with the pistons in other engine and compression thank you for sharing and your time because if any can Mustie can
Great video Mustie. You've got some interesting things coming up!
I think you oughta send that lathe to Keith Rucker for an overhaul. Goodness me that's wobbly!
Great video. Thanks Darren
I am amazed at how many hammers you find when wrenching. Not only does the battery supply power to the impact driver but it supplies a different impact for engine head removal… LOL
Looking forward to this build.
too
Awesome video Darren, can’t wait to see what you come up with…
Pretty slick set up you have there. Can't wait to see what you end up running it in.
I have to say done it with motor bike engine’s. This looks promising 180 between the two will make it smoother. It would be great to see this in that little mini truck with the smashed 3 cylinder. Hay but what do I know I am sure there’s a great plan.
Risky business but that's why I love it! Keep up the good work. Bravistamo!
The next car that drives past my house slow enough, I'm rebuilding it!
Where you live ? 😂
I got a suggestion I know you got some pump sprayers fill one with any kind cleaning fluid like parts cleaner something cheep then use it to clean out the block Look around fow like a jumbo cake pan you can drill a hole in it & put drain hose to a 5 gallon bucket & Set the cake pan on work table & clean out the engine that way your not bent over trying work ! I done it many times after i broke my back I uad use one those roll around chairs like mechanics use but taller to be able set at my work bench fixing lawn mowers & tiller engines !
engineers at Kohler Company took 3 18 command twins and bolted them together, put them on a custom garden tractor frame.
I spent 10 minutes telling you to use the tailstock chuck, thank goodness you heard!
I wonder if it would have been easier to just drill a socket into the crankshaft for a solid shaft to fit in
Curtis at Cutting Edge Engineering would use a boring bar to do just that. Have seen him do re-rods on hydraulic cylinders for big Cat dozers and excavators. Slides it in and welds it up.
Weld the slightly too large piece of steel on the end. Then use the steady rest on the crank and turn the extension down to size.
I so love your channel. You should have your own TV show for sure... My attempt at humor ( next week on Mustie 1 I know I had a 7/8 bit some were! where it go ? ) Thanks for the so indepth knowledge of so many engines and how to get them running...
Mustie was approached by a TV network few years back. However, he turned them down, because he'd still have to do all the work, filming and editing.
Love the channel. Greetings from Minnesota
I remember saying you should make a 4 cylinder out of two of them but I didn't even know if that was possible. LOL
Make autre you think through the firing interval stuff. With a V-twin it's not firing evenly throughout the crank rotation. 180 degrees is probably not a bad choice though.
When looking at this setup, I can imagine Mustie sandwiching the front tire of a velocipede in the coupler, securing the engines, and zipping off down the road.
Looks like you're using my trick.
I've got 3 or 4 impact drivers or drills
set up, for working on my bike motors,
all with different size sockets on them.
Including 2, 1/2 inch impact wrenches.
Instead of switching out sockets, I just
grab the tool, with the right size on it.
steve
Darren when finished you should call the engine Frankenstien .lol
Dual Franken-motor.... kind of like on the bike from some years back. Nifty. With how beefy this would be, I'd think it'd fit a go-kart better... or a Trike.
Hope you and your family are doing well with all the flooding in VT good Sir
Thanks for the video.
Hey Mustie1, that's the new kind of oil that you're supposed to use in engines,Lol😅😂
OMG, that engine is a screamer squirter! 😳
Another Sunday of gas, grease, and Mustie. Life is good.
Looking like a mad scientist in his laboratory Mustie.
i could be wrong but the steady rest on the crank would have stopped the chatter and helped with centering
Mustie a standard kohler command crank would already have an output shaft on the side that is flush on your engines. and you would only need to add the extension shaft to the flywheel side. Pretty sure the crank is the same between the vert and horiz engines if you have one in the hoard. just an idea for future.
Watch out for mice they can make nests in engines for a house!!!😮😮😮
I think you need to adjust the Gib strips on both the Crosslide and the Compound Slide....They look sloppy and worn.....🤔😳😏😏🇬🇧
What is this going in??????? I love the engine set up!! Been watching for years now!!!
Great video!
Reminds me when i was about 16, and had, within a minute, a 50cc rebuild going wrong (i put segments 180º off, hit the inlets and scratched the cyl) and then had another engine tore apart to build a working one. Few months later had to do it again because the gears went off.
I know you are just messing around, but using a chain to couple multiple engines on their outputs is typically how its done.
Unless you really want to make a v4, in which case just weld the cranks and camshafts and blocks together into one v4.
If your fit is that tight, then the slightest hint of corrosion can seize it good, just the opposite of an AK-47, you may never get that apart. Leave some room for protective grease.
For machining ideas I highly recommend the brilliant work of a man named Kurtis over at a lovely channel called Cutting Edge Engineering; bloke out of Australia. Works on big rigs, farm equipment, etc. Amazing stuff.
Abom79 is another good one.
Looke like aplate could be made, to bolt the cases together back to back. Weld the cranks together, have one bearingin one plate, then the plates dowel together and bolts together, making a 4cylinder block, and weld thecrank with the rod journal 90° from the other, and weld or brase the cams together with a dowel inside, or possibly run them on each other, one will need to be flipped or something, because it will be reversed rotation. Maybe build a new cam on a steel dowel braising the lobes onto the dowel making a reverse rotation camshaft! Use a different style oil pump, possibly chain drive from a motorcycle, or a pump from a newer automatic transmission, they have a chain rinning into the pan where the pump is located, this can pump oil for a small engine also! Tge plate can be made from 2" wide 1/2" thick aluminum bar, welded Together then machined flat, and machine the bearing retainer, bolting together, the crank can be pressed together like a motorcycle crank, with the bearing inside, or just make a crank with steel plate, and round bar, just like a motorcycle crank, use the parts of the original crank as needed, machine it and press the needed part into or on to the new crank, using interference fit, and about 3-4mm steel pins to keep the crank locked in place, 3/4" x 4" flat bar, and 2" round, just heat it a but and quench it to harden the surface, finding bearings that will fit in the rods roller bearings thgat the rod can be machined to fit the outer Race, and a inner race large enough for about 1.5" journal, or possibly make a steel race and use motorcycle bearings for the rods, a steel race fitting in the rods, however going this far, making steel rods is probably the best option, just machine it from a 3/4" steel bar quench the journal end and hone to final size, doing this the stroke can be modified, adding sbout 12-15 mm to tge stroke should be possible or shorten it. It should make a decent running engine
This is awesome!!
I haven't seen how Mustie does the shaft extension yet, but if it were me I would have threaded the shank of the drill bit and drilled and tapped the end of the crank. Or maybe even bore it and do a shrink fit...
In your final test, the shaft looked aligned but the engine didn't, which suggests to me that the driveshaft in the driven engine is bent.
It would be cool to put that into the skid steer
Maybe you are to drill out one of the Creek chefs.
Input threads in it and put a hardened steel bolt in it that might possibly solve the problem.
Mustie 1, "Lets Wrench" God Bless
Thanks!
I was thinking when that engine threw a rod its possible that the oil pickup fell off which starved it of oil there for transferred the aluminum to steel which made the one cylinder throw the rod when put under load from the hydraulics
Hey find some roller pins for an s cam brake system on a semi. They might be a good fit and decent hardness
Sweet cherry pie love it😁
Hello Mustie-1. Did you hear about all those 101 machinist jumping off the Empire State Building, in New York, after shouting from the roof-top "STEADY-REST," where in the hell is your "STEADY-REST." They ALL jumped OFF, after you used a "CAST-STEEL" part as a Pin Gauge(s) - Dimensional Measurement tool. In case you don't know, a machinist "PIN-GAUGE SET," generally starts at 1/16" in. (0.0625" in.) Diameter and increase in size by approx 1/16" in. up to 1/2" in. (0.5000" in.) Diameter. Tolerance 0.0001-0.0002 (one, to two ten-thousandths of an inch) FYI some sets start @ 1/2" in. and go up to 1.0000" in. They also come in metric as well. I'm not a "machinist per say," but I do as a welder have a small desktop mill and a 20" in. Swing Metal Lathe. The mere fact you used a 3-jaw chuck, indicates you were willing to dwell in the being off from as little as 0.008" in. TIR (TOTAL INDICATED RUN-OUT) to as high 0.020" in. TIR. Use either a (machined) shoulder bolt, say with 1/4" threads up the bolt, than a "Machined" surfaced say 3/4" in. long. To test the run-out of your chuck. You know, the single bolt that costs say $5.00 (five-dollars) for a single bolt, or maybe you have taken something apart, and was wondering why the obviously tapered pin was so shiny and smooth. You could use a machined tapered pin to check your three-jaw chuck run-out. Don't expect it to be on the money. The real question would be how far out, of T-I-R, is out. Now if you really wanted to keep your Total Indicated Run-out, to a minimum, say 0.001 to 0.002 at most, you would have used a four-jaw-chuck.
Do they make an adjustable three-jaw-chuck, to keep the run-out to such a low tolerance? Why yes they do, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you take some heart medication first, before inquiring as to price. I would expect say a 3"in. to 4" in. adjustable three-jaw-chuck to commend a price of say between $400.00 (four-hundred) to $600.00 (six-hundred) dollar's. FYI, the bigger the adjustable three-jaw-chuck, the bigger the price. Welcome to the heart-attack price zone. DON'T ask about six-jaw metal-lathe chucks, unless you have already taken a double dose of your heart medication.
FYI, most drill-bit's, the butt end (the part held in the drill-chuck) is a soft metal. That's why you see some bit's with chewed up marks on them. TESTING HARDNESS -101-1, simply use a metal file, if it leaves a mark by filing say with two - four ounces of pressure, the metal is soft. If the file SKATES ACROSS the metal, and doesn't leave a mark, your dealing with some serious (ROCKWELL-HARDNESS of 86 and above) hardness.
Good video
i would have bored a hole in the crankshaft to fit the end of the drill but a few thow under, maybe half inch in length. press it in and weld it. then your not relying soley on the weld for load or vibration
Don't lose that 10mm socket haha :D
Mhmmm! Tasty, deliciouuuuuus!🤣
Make sure your carbide is sharp , some of those carbides are make for cast iron , look for a better grade indexable cutter , also check your ways on the cross slide for slop this could cause chatter .
I’m thinking “Kohler V8 Bobcat”
This is going to be fun….
Good morning, sir!
I think you owe it to the viewers to try and combine the blocks, something similar to what Lyckebo Mekanista made. Bonus points if you build a half scale saab out of fiberglass to put the engine in.
The dually boys
Maybe no lock tight ? Love the channel !
Mustie I found an engine for your skid steer. It’s a Wisconsin V4. It’s 65 hp. Let me know. I actually found several of them.
Mustie1 when are we going to see some more of the Econoline Truck build?
AMAZING
If you like engine build videos try Alan Millard 6cyl Kawasaki into V12 .3cyc h1in to 5cyl etc
be cool to see that motor set up in vw beetle
Sunday morning at the Mustie Mechanical Repair Institute
Hey Darren! Just wondering. Anything in the works for the Econoline pickup? Take care. Todd Konoske the retired trucker.
Why didn't you use your Steady Rest ?????
Sweet!
What is that chopping noise on your lathe? Your giving me Vietnam flashbacks with that shit😂😂
Aaaaaand Sunday begins.
Build a car with that engine!!!!!! like an S-10 or a jeep or something!!!
Too lose in the hole???? Well that sounds like a problem ! lol
Five thousand on the crank is better than my Harley crank
I was thinking maybe you could drill the crankshaft. Then insert the piece of drill bit into the crankshaft to center it and also add some strength when it is welded.
Absolutely. I kept telling Darren to pilot the 1/2” drill shank into the end of the crank, but he wasn’t listening 😂. Ensures concentricity and improves strength. The steady rest would have held the outboard end of the crank true as well.
i was hoping for that as well..😅
I was literally yelling this. I thought he had it when he held it up that way before cutting it.
Exactly. Drill and tap end of crankshaft, then turn down and thread the end of the drill bit.
Use loctite to stop everything coming loose during final assembly and job's a good 'un as they say.
I was screaming the same at the tv but Mustie must have had the volume turned down.😂
Awesome video. Love the ingenuity with coming up with solutions. After welding the shaft you could always turn it down to remove run-out. Looks like a powerful design. Anxious to see how it works out. Thanks
...it's better to use a coupling-(!)
3 jaw chucks often have less accuracy than a collet . I will reposition the piece in the three jaw ...until the optimum true position is found.
As someone who is a machinist, albeit of the experienced hobbyist variety … this was painful to watch. 6 thou of runout on a crankshaft? Chipped brazed carbide cutting tool?? Chatter from an unsupported shaft a mile out of the chuck??? Welding a high carbon steel with no preheat???? Grinding and sanding grit all over the lathe ways?????
Let me hasten to say that I am no great shakes as a mechanic, and you have taught me a ton about small engines! And your final result seems to be working well despite my machinist horror!
Confused. Would it have not been better, to bore a 7/8" hole in the crankshaft and insert the drill stub. Then key the crankshaft and connector hub?
You sure know your way around those. I like the compact design. I was working at my dad's gas station when a carload of young women pulled in with a Canadien Pontiac (Chevy running gear). They asked why the car wouldn't go over 20. I asked if they had done anything to it around that time. 'No. Oh, we had trouble filling the transmission.' Where did you check it? They point to the tranny dipstick. What was the trouble? It didn't seem to fill up. [long pause] Oh, where were you filling it? They point to the engine filler cap. After draining 22 quarts of fluid from the engine (and doing an oil change), I assured them that their tenacity just turned the engine into a pump that was running too slowly to hurt itself. Seals were still fine, and the engine was now VERY clean. I suggested they not do that again.
Mustie, you've taught me EVERYTHING I know about working with small engines. So much so that I've made it my mini retirement business. But what you were doing with the lathe had me squirming in my chair. Like listening to a dental drill in the waiting room. 😮
A 1950's era dental drill, belt driven, without Novocain. I still remember. . .
Steve Martin as the sadistic dentist in Little Shop of Horrors. "It's an antique! Sturdy... slow... dull."
I keep seeing glimpses of that gorgeous pickup truck and wonder when Mustie will finish it.
Agree I didn't think he was that far off from finishing. Throw him an offer.
@tempusveritas8901 he mentioned in a video that he wasn't happy with how something was going on the truck. So he was taking a break from it.
Been a pretty long break now.
I'm waiting for it's return to Musti's attention.
I love your channel, I only found you about two weeks ago…I’ve gone back and watched😊 about every video you have uploaded. Great work Daren and I like it wen Bryan helps you, keep up the work.. I live in the Philippines
Marty T
also in N-Z and wcool.
@@fred-san Nova Scotia here.
2 weeks?
Sounds like Arnold in Total Recall
If you like mustie and VW and od stuff this is the channel for you
Greetings from Sam in Holland