ALRIGHT! Thank you guys so much for featuring my little shift knuckle. I'm honored to be a part of this build series. Y'all do it right, and are a joy to watch! Long live classic Hondas. And long live the Tyrannosaur Tightener by Dyno Designs!! 🦖
Yesss my favorite part of the week when you's upload, your 1 of the few UA-cam channels I watch where I will not skip any part of the video, ill watch every bit of it.
The Oem pcv does have a check valve inside, but its main job is to prevent an intake backfire from entering the crankcase. They don't tend to hold back boost all that great, and the last thing you want is extra crankcase pressure. IMO a secondary inline check valve is cheap insurance!
I plugged the inlet manifold PCV port on my DC2-R turbo and routed the PCV pipe to a catch can, as well as the extra breather pipes I had put on the rocker cover. I used one port on the back of the block to drain back to sump. That setup worked very well.
I'm so excited to see this thing tuned and driving. A turbo B-series is such an iconic setup but this is like a really modern, quality take on it. Normally the "boost an NA engine" build is done people trying to be as cheap as possible (KA-T guy here who has seen wayyyy too many eBay/junkyard setups) and it really hurts the reputation of the engine. You guys are really showing what's possible if you want to do it right. The packaging and products used make this such a tidy and visually appealing engine bay. Hoping it runs as well as it looks!
B18B, memories of my first Integra which was 1996 ❤, even though it was stock (just an Injen cold air intake with AEM DryFlow filter) I had so much fun and driving feel was awesome.
Crazy seeing that badge emoji when I have the actual metal keychain of it I bought years back (it looked like Dave or PT taped the envelope in a hurry which made it really endearing Lol)
A suggestion for your videos would be either a part#, or spec pop up on the screen or even list it in the comments. For example rad hose #1 vs the correct rad hose, helps viewers not run into the same problems you did and thus making the videos more of the go to for info on mods.
I'm a B Series fan from way back so this is right in my wheelhouse. I've been a subscriber for quite a while and I like the street/track day approach to your builds. The balance of talking and wrenching is great. I'm searching for your new content every week. Keep up the good work.
I have been using OE+ filters in the past year and cut each one open. They are top tier designed filters, excellent construction in the media and bypass valve, the canister is solid and feels very nice in hand. IMO betters the Purolator Boss and Frame Ultra Synthetic…. I'm told the OE+ is made by Premium Guard 👍👍👌
Pro tip: use the venturi on the airlift to draw coolant through the hose in your coolant bucket so that you dont draw in a bubble with a hose full of air. Doesn't matter if the system has an expansion tank but it does in this case. Sick series guys 🔥
I’m a Subie fan now, but my heart will always be with Honda, my first cars. This has been an amazing series. Can’t wait to see this bad boy ripping the track. I say it’ll put close to 340hp!
I think the pacing of these episodes and ratio of talking about/working on the vehicle is spot on. UA-cam recently started recommending another channel and I'm constantly disappointed by their automotive content.
I'm concerned for your transmission. Honda MTF is equivalent to 10w30 with additives. 75w90 isn't just a little heavier, it can't flow in the machine tolerances in honda manual transmissions.
I get where you're coming from, but the gear oil scale is actually rated a lot differently than engine oil, what for gearboxes and differentials not getting as hot as engines do, 10w30 engine oil Actually does act very similar to how 75w90 gear oil does (in term of viscosity and flow) when either are put into a diff, although these days dedicated gear oil and engine oil have a lot more different additives and base oils only got more specialized for each application, but basically a modern synthetic Synchromesh 75w90 will play just nice in any old Honda manual gearbox that asked for 10w30 or "only Honda OEM MANUAL TRANS FLUID IN HONDA GENUINE BOTTLES PURCHASED AT THE DEALERSHIP AND HANDED TO YOU BY THE HONDA PARTS DESK EMPLOYEE OR YOU'LL BLOW IT UP!!!1!1!1", and have much more years of technology and advancements put into the sauce lol
Agreed, Eugene. Valvoline makes fine products, but that 75W90 gear oil will not work well in a Honda gearbox. I have never found a gear oil, regardless of manufacturer, that works well in Honda gearboxes. The shifts will be notchy and sometimes grind, especially 2-3 and 4-5. Unfortunately, Honda designed these things to use a specific combination of additives. It's not voodoo but I haven't seen another manufacturer make something Honda-specific, although Torco MTF and RTF work for actual track use in warm or hot weather. When it's cold, regardless of use, OE Honda MTF is the only thing that shifts smoothly in those gearboxes.
Although I love Hardrace products, the PCI control arms are my favorite. They even give you a bit more suspension travel with out having to cut the body strut towers. But that being said, you can't go wrong with Hardrace either.
There is a check valve in the PCV; but they often gunk up and stick. Pop it off and shake it to confirm it moves freely, or give it a puff puff pass if you’re feeling really adventurous 😅 From memory they sometimes fail under boost; so it may be worth adding an inline check valve or other ventilation system.
I've bought an affordable control setup for a civic before, and i never asked the same question about the thin " brace," but although im not "Honda" guy, the parts scene is definitely about convenience . with all of that being said; I truely think that it is there as a suggestion and take as you will see fit
when instaling roll center correction ball joint you should install inverted steering arm other wise your suspension geometry will create bump steer and make car unstable
YOu would see the need for the upper link on the UCA if you seen the car after an accident. it is to prevent twist and deflection between the two bushings. The strut column in the body not very rigid. Adding this small brace is a compromise so that they don;t have to make the engine comparment out of a thicker metal.
Be careful advertising those roll center adjusters. They are meant for 2" of drop or more. Basically for track use if you have a super lowered car. OEM ball joints for street cars should work just fine if you are only 1 to 1.5 lowered, and you save time, money, and effort.
Yeah it also lowers the front of the car more, requiring adjustable height suspension to compensate. It basically makes the height of the knuckle taller, and increases the distance from the ball joint to the hub (like a drop spindle). I see a lot of people using these but like you said, really not needed for mild drops.
If you want to save your ecu and wiring id recommed adjusting that battery tie down closer to ground than aposed to the power side of the battery. One good bump in the Hamilton rds and that tie down smacks that power and it wont be a good time
Soapy water in a spray bottle finds air leaks. I know i mentioned it before putting fire sleeve over every hose that's close to the turbo and downpipe, but i would also exhaust wrap the downpipe as well. If it's worth building, it's worth over-building. Good job guys eh 🏆💪
8:54 you say the system is under vacuum, but what about the air in the hose after the valve. That went in before the coolant so you are still going to have to “burp” the system.
My dip stick melted on my b18c greddy turbo kit. The rubber melted to the inside of the tube. Ended up having to wrap it. Looks like yours has more room though.
So ive been thinking about turboing my b18b for sometime. slowly been collecting parts, but i have wanted it to mimic as if honda made it oem from the factory turboed. And i have this peice that i was wanting to put on it. You guys should source one to put it on for shits and giggles. If it even fits... its an oem b20b head heatshield and it has the stop hand (hot) stamped on it. Idk might be non sense, i know you guys kinda like the oem style looks too thats why i mentioned it. Anyways, great work guys i love the cars
I'm still in disbelief how similar this build is to my turbo non-vtec b18b dc2 build from the go Autoworks charge piping & same PLM Downpipe thinking same thing that I might get lucky and it would fit lol all hardrace mounts & all suspension arms biggest difference being I went with precision 5858 4" intake 2.5" outlet T3 / 3" vband with CSS block SFR rods Arias flat top 10:1 pistons & built head ported by bad guys cnc w/ BC valvetrain springs retainers & stage 2 turbo cams & AEM infinity stand alone w/ all AEM sensors & cd5 dash that I chose due to AEM being made In California w/ great warranty + customer service & including live tech support from AEM techs at their HQ via phone or email not hotline in a different country etc only to find out they were purchased by Holley and discontinued all electronics shortly after I received mine now I wish I would've gone with Link ECU master or haltech or go all out price no object Emtron or Motec at this point I've already spent so much time installing learning & setting up AEM dash & ECU & learning their tuning software being already so far over original budget even selling it to buy different setup wouldn't be worth the time energy or money but being one of the most expensive parts of the build and something I put a lot of research into didn't think only a few months later they would not only be sold but then completely discontinued 🤦especially being such a long time staple in the industry speaking of wishes also wish I could've watched this build before I started mine lol can't wait to see the dyno results. PS surprised you didn't use push to connect/push lock 1/8npt fittings instead of standard vacuum / barb fittings only slightly higher price point but still super affordable & cleaner, easier to install/service, better temp resistance & longer life. As far as pcv/check valve intake manifold for vacuum I'd recommend a vacuum manifold from vibrant or other manufacturer above all other setups such as redrill/thread intake or a bunch of T's. A single vacuum manifold is easier to install/ cleaner plumbing/ better for servicing/ better performance proper flow. run from big booster line I believe at least 3/8 to manifold & then 6 x 1/8npt BOV+FPR+WG+EBC Solenoid (great time to covert to 1/8 pushloc fittings & DOT air line)
Personally I’ve only used synchromesh in my Honda trans. I wouldn’t think or want to use a gear oil…. Especially when oem spec was only ever motor oil before the oem fluid was made
88-91 Honda Preludes have that front upper control arm bushings brace built into them for suspension stiffening and handling. Since civics/integras did not not have the same suspension setup due to them being econo cars, thats way the Hard Race UCA has that brace.
ALRIGHT! Thank you guys so much for featuring my little shift knuckle. I'm honored to be a part of this build series. Y'all do it right, and are a joy to watch! Long live classic Hondas. And long live the Tyrannosaur Tightener by Dyno Designs!! 🦖
Glad to have you back
21:27 -
Coming up
I slowed down to check this out as well lol
i had to replay a few times to see the subliminal message. they live.
Came to the comments for this.
Yuh. Made me tweak
Yesss my favorite part of the week when you's upload, your 1 of the few UA-cam channels I watch where I will not skip any part of the video, ill watch every bit of it.
I skip the minivan and tundra builds but otherwise same.
The Oem pcv does have a check valve inside, but its main job is to prevent an intake backfire from entering the crankcase. They don't tend to hold back boost all that great, and the last thing you want is extra crankcase pressure. IMO a secondary inline check valve is cheap insurance!
I plugged the inlet manifold PCV port on my DC2-R turbo and routed the PCV pipe to a catch can, as well as the extra breather pipes I had put on the rocker cover. I used one port on the back of the block to drain back to sump.
That setup worked very well.
My favorite channel by far!
I'm so excited to see this thing tuned and driving. A turbo B-series is such an iconic setup but this is like a really modern, quality take on it. Normally the "boost an NA engine" build is done people trying to be as cheap as possible (KA-T guy here who has seen wayyyy too many eBay/junkyard setups) and it really hurts the reputation of the engine. You guys are really showing what's possible if you want to do it right. The packaging and products used make this such a tidy and visually appealing engine bay. Hoping it runs as well as it looks!
She coming along smoothly 😍🔥🎊🎉
Great pace on these builds for sure, keep it up fellas! As always, love the attention to detail you guys put in!
Such attention to detail!! The absolute best turbo build I’ve ever seen! Way to go guys!
B18B, memories of my first Integra which was 1996 ❤, even though it was stock (just an Injen cold air intake with AEM DryFlow filter) I had so much fun and driving feel was awesome.
The dip stick rubber just gets brown and brittle, then breaks off...lol
Happens stock lol
it need a short throw dip stick
Love the honda builds
Best auto channel on UA-cam
That brace is to prevent the shock tower from flexing under load between those two points and causing alignment changes.
And I also wanna add that even with the brace, you can still remove the arm without taking out the suspension. The brace is not hard-mounted.
You guys have the cleanest builds!
That battery tie down being that close to the positive terminal is scary lol, hopefully that battery wont slide
Welcome back guys! Good to see you alive and well again! 🤝
Crazy seeing that badge emoji when I have the actual metal keychain of it I bought years back (it looked like Dave or PT taped the envelope in a hurry which made it really endearing Lol)
A suggestion for your videos would be either a part#, or spec pop up on the screen or even list it in the comments.
For example rad hose #1 vs the correct rad hose, helps viewers not run into the same problems you did and thus making the videos more of the go to for info on mods.
I'm a B Series fan from way back so this is right in my wheelhouse. I've been a subscriber for quite a while and I like the street/track day approach to your builds. The balance of talking and wrenching is great. I'm searching for your new content every week. Keep up the good work.
installed those same hardrace lcas on my 95 integtra 4dr GSR. one of the best mods you can feel.
'95 4-door GSR FTW! 😎
@6:45 I recently went to a billet oil dipstick. After 30 years of working on cars, was my first time thinking about that option, turns out it exists.
Next time, remove the VSS and fill the trans from the top. A long funnel makes the job simple and generally mess free.
wow the ball joint replacement looked so easy. Good job!
14:05 my compact family car with 1.2 liter engine have these rings on ball joints. SA caled it race car, now I feel good :D
I have followed the channel for a while and do love the videos. I always feel it's more real life than most UA-camrs today, that do supercars
Loving everything about the series, length is perfect. Keep up the good work fellas
I have been using OE+ filters in the past year and cut each one open. They are top tier designed filters, excellent construction in the media and bypass valve, the canister is solid and feels very nice in hand. IMO betters the Purolator Boss and Frame Ultra Synthetic…. I'm told the OE+ is made by Premium Guard 👍👍👌
Love this series!
Pro tip: use the venturi on the airlift to draw coolant through the hose in your coolant bucket so that you dont draw in a bubble with a hose full of air. Doesn't matter if the system has an expansion tank but it does in this case. Sick series guys 🔥
Great channel, great videos, nice honda series, thank you. pace is ok
Great job Peter car sounds great! Getting closer to track day ! Can’t wait to see suspension and wheels and make brake upgrade
Great series, loving the b series turbo
I’m a Subie fan now, but my heart will always be with Honda, my first cars. This has been an amazing series. Can’t wait to see this bad boy ripping the track. I say it’ll put close to 340hp!
I'll say 240
@@466rudy6 I think you might correct, I went to high with that number.
Congrats on the start up guys!
I think the pacing of these episodes and ratio of talking about/working on the vehicle is spot on. UA-cam recently started recommending another channel and I'm constantly disappointed by their automotive content.
I'm concerned for your transmission. Honda MTF is equivalent to 10w30 with additives. 75w90 isn't just a little heavier, it can't flow in the machine tolerances in honda manual transmissions.
I get where you're coming from, but the gear oil scale is actually rated a lot differently than engine oil, what for gearboxes and differentials not getting as hot as engines do, 10w30 engine oil Actually does act very similar to how 75w90 gear oil does (in term of viscosity and flow) when either are put into a diff, although these days dedicated gear oil and engine oil have a lot more different additives and base oils only got more specialized for each application, but basically a modern synthetic Synchromesh 75w90 will play just nice in any old Honda manual gearbox that asked for 10w30 or "only Honda OEM MANUAL TRANS FLUID IN HONDA GENUINE BOTTLES PURCHASED AT THE DEALERSHIP AND HANDED TO YOU BY THE HONDA PARTS DESK EMPLOYEE OR YOU'LL BLOW IT UP!!!1!1!1", and have much more years of technology and advancements put into the sauce lol
Agreed, Eugene. Valvoline makes fine products, but that 75W90 gear oil will not work well in a Honda gearbox. I have never found a gear oil, regardless of manufacturer, that works well in Honda gearboxes. The shifts will be notchy and sometimes grind, especially 2-3 and 4-5. Unfortunately, Honda designed these things to use a specific combination of additives. It's not voodoo but I haven't seen another manufacturer make something Honda-specific, although Torco MTF and RTF work for actual track use in warm or hot weather. When it's cold, regardless of use, OE Honda MTF is the only thing that shifts smoothly in those gearboxes.
Amsoil syncromesh MTF is my go to for Honda transmissions.
@14:45 it's an additional brace. It helps the upper arm not twist on the mounts as easy under hard loads.
Although I love Hardrace products, the PCI control arms are my favorite. They even give you a bit more suspension travel with out having to cut the body strut towers. But that being said, you can't go wrong with Hardrace either.
Welcome back Pete and Dave! 🎉
There is a check valve in the PCV; but they often gunk up and stick. Pop it off and shake it to confirm it moves freely, or give it a puff puff pass if you’re feeling really adventurous 😅
From memory they sometimes fail under boost; so it may be worth adding an inline check valve or other ventilation system.
hope to see you guys at the Niagara Crx Meet 20 july . all 90s honda are welcome
great series, I've been enjoying it
When using the airlift I like to pre fill the suction hose with coolant.
Enjoying every minute! Perfect videos 👍🏽
I've bought an affordable control setup for a civic before, and i never asked the same question about the thin " brace," but although im not "Honda" guy, the parts scene is definitely about convenience .
with all of that being said; I truely think that it is there as a suggestion and take as you will see fit
Such a clean build
when instaling roll center correction ball joint you should install inverted steering arm
other wise your suspension geometry will create bump steer and make car unstable
Looks like a clean setup boys! Vapour honing the intake manifold to clean it up, would set off the engine bay
6:16 bug guy comes in, for the easy jobs like pouring oil 😂
Sunday morning poops hit different when a new SA video is out
Everyone complaining about there's no v tec. He can always do a head swap in the future that means more content.
You can actually get custom extended length dipsticks with various types on grab handles
With the vehicle-specific level marks (i.e. DC2 Integra)? Where? I need.
And we are back!!! Tbh though, I miss the two a week format. 😢
Cool builds for sure, now we just need the weather to cooperate.
21:30 ish Mark I thought I was going crazy when it flashed "coming up"
I like 15w40 diesel oil in honda transmissions and valvoline makes some really nice oil in a blue jug.
Maaaaaaaad episode!! Thank for that ay!!!
Love the build
Thats when the boost hits !!!!
#turbohondaboyzz !!!!!
YOu would see the need for the upper link on the UCA if you seen the car after an accident. it is to prevent twist and deflection between the two bushings. The strut column in the body not very rigid. Adding this small brace is a compromise so that they don;t have to make the engine comparment out of a thicker metal.
Excited to see these two battle. I'm guessing you'll make 250whp on 10lbs. What a nice na 2.0 b series could have done.
PT: listen to how quiet it is DP!
Camera mounted microphone: i take my job seriously. You will hear every sound very loud.
Be careful advertising those roll center adjusters. They are meant for 2" of drop or more. Basically for track use if you have a super lowered car. OEM ball joints for street cars should work just fine if you are only 1 to 1.5 lowered, and you save time, money, and effort.
Yeah it also lowers the front of the car more, requiring adjustable height suspension to compensate. It basically makes the height of the knuckle taller, and increases the distance from the ball joint to the hub (like a drop spindle). I see a lot of people using these but like you said, really not needed for mild drops.
Was looking for agreement on this. I confirmed this with Honed for my Integra, which is only 1.25" lower than factory.
Use soapy water in a spray bottle to check for leaks while pressure testing, it will foam significantly around a leak.
If you want to save your ecu and wiring id recommed adjusting that battery tie down closer to ground than aposed to the power side of the battery. One good bump in the Hamilton rds and that tie down smacks that power and it wont be a good time
that old hose seemed a little kined too. i need to trim my new silacone rad hose on my miata
Clean COP kit and the bay would be NICE NICE!
I don’t care about pacing as long as I get to watch my favorite Saturday morning cartoon The adventures of Pete and Dave.
Pcv is the little plastic piece on the valve cover. No other check valves there
Soapy water in a spray bottle finds air leaks. I know i mentioned it before putting fire sleeve over every hose that's close to the turbo and downpipe, but i would also exhaust wrap the downpipe as well. If it's worth building, it's worth over-building. Good job guys eh 🏆💪
8:54 you say the system is under vacuum, but what about the air in the hose after the valve. That went in before the coolant so you are still going to have to “burp” the system.
Love it!
It's already got a blown head gasket over pressurizing the cooling system from compression coming out of the Piston into the cooling system
that 21:27 "coming up frame" is crazy lmao
Dipstick should be fine oem manifolds are just as close or closer in times lol
My dip stick melted on my b18c greddy turbo kit. The rubber melted to the inside of the tube. Ended up having to wrap it. Looks like yours has more room though.
You’d never guess that is turbo with how well it idles and sounds lol nice job! But the b series can handle more than 10 psi all day stock!
So ive been thinking about turboing my b18b for sometime. slowly been collecting parts, but i have wanted it to mimic as if honda made it oem from the factory turboed. And i have this peice that i was wanting to put on it. You guys should source one to put it on for shits and giggles. If it even fits... its an oem b20b head heatshield and it has the stop hand (hot) stamped on it. Idk might be non sense, i know you guys kinda like the oem style looks too thats why i mentioned it. Anyways, great work guys i love the cars
I'm still in disbelief how similar this build is to my turbo non-vtec b18b dc2 build from the go Autoworks charge piping & same PLM Downpipe thinking same thing that I might get lucky and it would fit lol all hardrace mounts & all suspension arms biggest difference being I went with precision 5858 4" intake 2.5" outlet T3 / 3" vband with CSS block SFR rods Arias flat top 10:1 pistons & built head ported by bad guys cnc w/ BC valvetrain springs retainers & stage 2 turbo cams & AEM infinity stand alone w/ all AEM sensors & cd5 dash that I chose due to AEM being made In California w/ great warranty + customer service & including live tech support from AEM techs at their HQ via phone or email not hotline in a different country etc only to find out they were purchased by Holley and discontinued all electronics shortly after I received mine now I wish I would've gone with Link ECU master or haltech or go all out price no object Emtron or Motec at this point I've already spent so much time installing learning & setting up AEM dash & ECU & learning their tuning software being already so far over original budget even selling it to buy different setup wouldn't be worth the time energy or money but being one of the most expensive parts of the build and something I put a lot of research into didn't think only a few months later they would not only be sold but then completely discontinued 🤦especially being such a long time staple in the industry speaking of wishes also wish I could've watched this build before I started mine lol can't wait to see the dyno results. PS surprised you didn't use push to connect/push lock 1/8npt fittings instead of standard vacuum / barb fittings only slightly higher price point but still super affordable & cleaner, easier to install/service, better temp resistance & longer life. As far as pcv/check valve intake manifold for vacuum I'd recommend a vacuum manifold from vibrant or other manufacturer above all other setups such as redrill/thread intake or a bunch of T's. A single vacuum manifold is easier to install/ cleaner plumbing/ better for servicing/ better performance proper flow. run from big booster line I believe at least 3/8 to manifold & then 6 x 1/8npt BOV+FPR+WG+EBC Solenoid (great time to covert to 1/8 pushloc fittings & DOT air line)
Personally I’ve only used synchromesh in my Honda trans. I wouldn’t think or want to use a gear oil…. Especially when oem spec was only ever motor oil before the oem fluid was made
love this channel! miss the badass s2000 tho lol
88-91 Honda Preludes have that front upper control arm bushings brace built into them for suspension stiffening and handling. Since civics/integras did not not have the same suspension setup due to them being econo cars, thats way the Hard Race UCA has that brace.
Not positive about Civics but factory Integra (GSR at least) UCAs _do_ have that brace. I also wondered why it was there.
What’s the story with converting these types of setups to coil-on-plug from a dizzy?
I need both, in my life.
I hope pete went back and took that oring out of the k tune bag and put it on instead of the old crusty one :D
The car got to temp and that clamp expanded slightly for the coolant to leak out
21:27
what's up with this one frame!?
pace is good.
If you want to verify the check valve, just pull it off and give it a quick blow on each side.
12:48 I know his thumb hurt after that 🤣
21:27 "COMING UP" ??
Oooo, early for this one 👀
It'll be fine, but I wouldn't have gone with such a big map sensor, they get fuzzy the larger they get.
Can you guy please do a build on a d series?!
Honda trans usually run 10-30 or 10-40 they don't use standard gear oil
just leave the control arm brace in place and slide the control arm out like you would normally
I don't usually comment but all that heat management but leaving the stock coolant uses on there? Why not samco or some other option.
Question! Any chance of remaking the OG SA crewneck sweatshirt? I’d love to have one
HAMP small filters retain better oil pressure
Now I don't feel so bad for getting wrinkles in my Gold DEI heat wrap.
Woot