ZF5HP19 Common Problems
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this video, i go over the most common issues i see when i get this trans on the bench for rebuild. Number one being a leak from the front, this is from the pump bushing spinning out and getting stuck on the converter neck. Enjoy, thanks for watching and Happy New Year.
Gary I hope you have an apprentice! You have quite the skill set sir, thanks for sharing.
I do not have one, i work sometimes long days, at least we are always busy
Not a bad thing at all. Take care Gary
@@jakeandrus690 Thanks you too. Happy New Year
Have a E39 with zf5hp19. Showing a torque converter error. Symptoms are when driving in last gear it slips. Are those friction plates or torque converter itself?
Did you ever get an answer to this? Same is happening with mine
I love this guy
Thank you, thanks for watching, if you haven't please subscribe
@@GaryFerraro subscribed already and I do get notified each time you drop new videos... You're indeed my Role Model. Am also an auto trans techy
@@autocrownz8078 Wow, thank you and thank you for your continued support
Love your videos ! Thanks
Thanks for watching
Hey Gary. Have one for sale? 02 S4. Thanks
Happy New Year Gary!
Thanks you too.
Hi Gary, wish I could volunteer at your shop just to learn form you! AT's have always been a mystery to me. I have 03 Audi Allroad that I changed the filter on (was shifting hard), did my best to fill iaw instructions I researched (hot fluid level pump while shifting positions etc) ran good for awhile and now not engaging (get very slow movement if in D or R, but you have to rev to 2500 rpm or so). No leaks, and no codes that I can find using VAG. Put it back on the lift and got another liter into the transmission so it was low, thought that might have fixed it but still have the same problem. I was hoping you could give me some ideas about what the issue might be. I have never worked on an AT but would like to tackle this to learn. Thanks
Thanks for your experience
Hi Gary , thanks a lot for your videos and explain. I understand now why I have a rough shifting from 4 to 3 when my engine is hot. The D G drum coming worn , my gearbox have 420000 km, time to refresh ;-)
Hope you aint worked to hard over Christmas, as always great video.
Full day christmas eve, off Christmas day
Wow, us brits get 2 weeks off, plus i had 1 week to use before the end of the year. Iv had a full fat 3 weeks off. its been great, iv not touched a spanner.
@@Bikemad24 I don't get out much, shop is always busy
Gary Ferraro life is temporary, death is very permanent. As much as i love my just job i aslo love time off. Enjoy life.
@@Bikemad24 Yes, you are correct, wife tells me the same. Happy New Year
BONJOUR je recherche le schéma d'une boite à vitesse AUDI A6 5HP19 EYJ 1060040060 pourriez vous me renseigner merci
GOOD I'm looking for the diagram of a gearbox AUDI A6 5HP19 EYJ 1060040060 could inform me thank you good video
I’m getting a P1815 Pressure Control Valve 1 (N215) short to plus intermittent. It has a random harsh clunk when put into reverse at random times when cold. Could these be related? What may be the fix?
If you clear the code does it come right back
Gary I have a 2003 BMW 330i with the 5HP19 with 215k production 10/02 what would be the a round about figure to Rebuild that trans vs buying a Reman trans..
Incorrect gear ratio error, boom, there's my issue.
Whats the car doing?
Its hard to tell since it also had a boost control issue and was surging badly, but it seemed like it was slipping, it wasn't locking the converter properly, (I believe they're supposed to be locked at least from 2nd out, but I could be wrong) and without even warming the trans up it was throwing an incorrect gear ratio code. I'm sure the clutches are fried too (hence the slipping) because it has a pan gasket leak as well as a leak from the diff or cv axle output, whatever its called. Fluid was very low when i got it and it looked like motor oil but didn't smell too bad. Its a 2004 passat, so it would be the awd/fwd version, 5hp19fl i believe. I bought the car as is with an unknown trans issue as well as some wiring and vacuum issues. I'm pulling the engine and trans for a rebuild, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can about known weak areas in this trans. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. I have some experience with 4l60's, and while its a completely different application, the layout seems to be similar. I was tempted to swap in a used trans but I'd rather know whats in my engine and trans and besides, its getting a little more power when it goes back together
@@GreatLakesLogger What was the code number P0730?
@@GaryFerraro I do not recall what the code # was
question: if the 5hp-19 tranny from start jumps to 4th gear, could doing the solenoid change solve this or does this involve alot more issues? problems? or more info is needed? thanks!
Hi Al, You need to have the car scanned for codes, this may give some direction on what the problem is
Mine is showing P0748 code but the solenoid are fine mechanic can’t fix it
Mr Ferraro
today i just disassamble my 5hp19 AWD on my vw ´01 Passat and the F drum the sleeve is not down mine is opposite is out or up to the drum. i can´t remember the code number but is for sure an incorrect gear ratio on 3 to 4 upshift. i guess the F drum is my problem because it ran good cold and after 25 minutes or so started to act up the flare 3 to 4 upshift, the 4 to 5 change is good and soft.
you think is possible to push it down few milimiters like the bushigs with the proper tool and work again like it should?
how is your 2-3 shift? Can't really move the sleeve down, better off replacing the drum
@@GaryFerraro hey forgot to thank you for the reply, and I’ll try to buy a replacement. Wish I can send you a picture of the drum so you can see it that the sleeve is not flush as you describe in the video. Thanks again keep on the good work sharing your knowledge 😊
@@edgarcastaneda9086 My E-mail
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hello. I have audi a4 5hp19 fla gbf. after putting the car in reverse, the car jumps a little after a second and only then slowly starts moving backwards. also no power in reverse, looks like the gear is slipping. I no longer can gobackwards up the hill because of lack of power in reverse. what could be the problem? diagnostics does not show any errors. thank you
sounds like a bad clutch pack, forward gears are ok?
Excuse me, I want to ask, the two white plastic ones have oring, what's the name? I thank you very much for the answer, 🙏
Gary, does the 5hp19 have adjusting bands?
No Sir, does not use bands
Hi Gary, thanks for the informative video! I have couple of questions on my 2001 E39 5HP19 rebuilt, need your expert advice please!
The D-G drum edge was blown up. It was actually the G side as the car can still reverse fine, but engaging on 1st and 2nd was very slippery, I had to drive gently and manually changed to 3rd, after that the tranny operates fine.
I replaced the D-G drum with a 2nd hand one, and rebuilt the transmission as much as I could with a rebuilt kit, including the valve body which I have throughly cleaned (almost each parts) and replaced the gasket, 3 piston bits, and few rubber o-rings.
Once I assembled the transmission together and put it back to the car, added enough fluid. The transmission went into Limp mode (cog wheel on the dash), I couldn't reserve the car, forward is on 4th gear only. Later I discovered I put the rear speed censor up side down, the sensor was facing down to the transmission oil pan rather than the planetary carrier. I corrected the orientation of the rear speed censor, but the issue still the same. I removed the Valve body and found out the F Drum seems have lot of play horizontally (3-4 mm), is this normal? I have a video about it (ua-cam.com/video/m2HTCF6Kglw/v-deo.html).
1. The F Drum is controlling the 4th gear, my guess it's either the drum itself not installed properly (connected to the ring gear) or it is a faulty part?
2. And the car loses the reverse, is this because it's in the Limp mode? It was fine before I rebuilt it.
3. Any ideas of my next direction to troubleshoot further? hopefully no taken the transmission off the car :(
Thanks!
Hi, I'm having issue: no engagement from ZF-5HP-19 whatsoever. Issue came suddenly out of nowhere. (1999 Audi A8 ) VCDS shows no error codes from TCU. TCU responds as usual, gear position is read correctly from TCU. Looking through measurement blocks it showed 0 rpm from gearbox input shaft when engine was idling. Gearbox is filled with oil correctly. No oil was moving through coolant cycle when engine was running. What to look for ?
when you checked the oil, did it seem overfull? what if you select drive and step on the gas, any rpm reading on input sensor? car holds in park?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for your answer. Oil didn't seem overfilled. When seleced D and pressed on gas, input shaft stayed at 0pm at all times. Car does hold in P.
Hi Gary, your info is very informative...however I have code P0741 for torque convertor.. Other than that it drives and shifts fine. 2,750 Rpm's at 80. Some say to replace the tc or pressure regulator valve. Would you recommend both or torque converor replacement? Thank you
That 741 code usually shows up due to a torn seal inside the converter
I could use some information if you can find the time to answer my question. I have a 5hp19 transmission I've rebuilt the the transmission and have tried to replace the torque converter as well. I purchased through Torco. The first install resulted in the car stalling out when gas is applied. I returned the unit and reinstalled my old torque converter and everything worked fine. I got the replacement from them again and when I installed it. The car would stall when the brake was applied. Removed everything again I disassemble my tranny again to check the pump. Everything looks fine. I inserted the input shaft into the new torque converter and it won't spin freely but my old one does. So I'm thinking the new one is also bad. Does that make sense to you? Also do you have a recommendation on a place to purchase a torque converter replacement that's reliable. Is there something else I should be looking at as well before attempt number 4 installing the tranny?
Being the fact that you swapped converters and it was ok, sounds like that is your problem. Where are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for replying, I live in Washington state. I should mention the Car is a BMW e39 530i.
@@chrimson8598 I only use Eriksson's for ZF converters and never had a problem
they are in CT
1-800-388-4418
Eriksson's Industries
Hi Gary, thanks for the very informative videos. In my BMW E46 328i with 5HP19 automatic gear box, I have unstable rpm at constant speed while driving speed uphill between 1300 and 2000 rpm.The rpm slowly and constantly falls by 300 rpm and then suddenly rises back up. E.g. from 1500rpm to 1200rpm slowly, and then suddenly up to 1500rpm. This repeats over and over again. The speed of the vehicle remains unaffected during this process. Over 2000rpm there is no issue at all. Power transmission is very satisfactory. Gear shifting is extremely smooth, and there is no error message stored.Could this be from the gear box, or torque converter, or completely something else?
Kinda sounds like converter, does this happen when the car is cold?
@@GaryFerraro Not only when cold but also when warm. If its the converter, will an oil change help? I did an oil change with filter 3 years back (original ZF parts) and this issue disappeared completely, altough the issue was not that observable at that time. Is it mostly a mechanical defect in the converter, or maybe something to do with the oil viscosity or oil being old? Many thanks :-)
@@shah1100 Certainly can hurt to try to see if anything changes
@@shah1100 I believe I've read there's a seal in the torque converter that commonly fails. It keeps the Torque Coverter Clutch from locking up properly. A good scanner will give you the TCC slip % in real time as you drive, or you can graph engine speed vs trans input speed. I've been seeing this in my Passat when its nice and warm. So far, it's still OK on a cool day. Unfortunately, this inexpensive seal is buried inside the fully welded torque converter, so the entire assembly would need replaced.
What causes the bushing to fail? I'm guessing lack of lubrication?
well, i don't really see signs of lack of lube, i've read where it is just by normal wear and tear
Thanks Gary for good presentation.
Do you know a reason, why gear is slip on D 1 shift and R? Only on high motor rpm (up 4000) and accelerator pedal is fully pressed. Clutch G was renew, because was totally used.
Best regards
Chris
Hello Mr. Ferraro Thank you for making such great videos very helpful. I have a 2001 330i sedan and a few days ago my reverse wont engage and by watching your video pretty much determine the problem. I was thinking of doing the repair myself and would like to know if you can direct me to where I can purchase all the parts I need to complete and rebuild my transmission. This will be my first time working on a transmission your videos helps me gain confidence.
Hello Joe, Where are you located?
Roswell Georgia
@@joetramirez5 My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com send me an e-mail and i can send you my rep's info
@@joetramirez5 I also live in Roswell Georgia.
Thank you ! I have a problem with my 5HP19 , not engaging from park to first gear, if i skip first gear in manual mode and start from M2, everything's ok, after moving i can go back to drive for the rest of the gears. Reverse o.k. Any clue ?
ok, so no move in drive and no move in Manual 1 ?
@@GaryFerraro exactly , and the car turn in limb mode.
andrewgogo In the trans there is a D/G Drum very possible the one side which is forward is no good. Have you dropped the pan to see if anything is in the pan?
@@GaryFerraro not yet, I will as soon as I have finished to rebuild a nother replacement hp519 I found used...
@@GaryFerraro Yes for the pan, i have replaced the valve body with my used/rebuild one, same problem, nothing obvious in the pan, like metal pieces or something like that...
Thank you
Hi
My VIN is WBABM52000JM21828
Can you by any means confirm which auto transmission reference i use on my e46 328ci please ?
vin did not work, what is the year of the car?
@@GaryFerraro year 2000
What is the problem Could be the ZF5HP19. Or 5L40E
@@GaryFerraro thank you. The gearbox was recently changed on it but the oil cooler was damaged hence water got into the gearbox and atf oil in the radiator. This was discovered at a later stage and now i have flushed the radiator + drained the gearbox oil + carter. Put new oil cooler + atf oil and the car will only drive a few metres and then the cog of death sign appear and it won't go further even when i accelerate.
what is the problem, is the car on a lift to send e-mail me a picture of the pan?@@jewannadiim8751
i seem to have the leaking convertor issue. what would be a ballpark figure to have it repaired?
What is the year make and model of your car?
Can ya help me out gary? 02 325i bought recently, 175k miles. Cold start trans will not engage for 5 to 10 seconds and a few revs. Being a bmw guy ive topped off trans fluid a couple times w no problems. I get it up on jackstands and its running and up to temp. I pull the fill plug and probly half a gallon of fluid pours out! So i let it drain, put a few pumps of new fluid in and put plug back in. Nothing changes. It shifts ok after getting up to temp and driving it for 15 mns. Does this sound like something that is fixable ie solenoids, new filter? Doesnt have any leaks. Thanks in advance. Ps no codes showing and no overheating or any other red flags. Fluid is clean and doesnt smell burnt
reverse is ok, no delay?
Can you tell me honestly if this gearbox is worth buying?
Never really did that, how much are they going for?
I have an offer to buy an a4 with the same gearbox, so I'm thinking about it
Are the D drums and clutches the same on a Audi Quattro ZF5HP19FLA 01v code DTV vs GBJ transmission (B5 A4 vs B6 A4) or are some internals transferable between the two?
I would have to check with my supplier about what would fit, Will ask about the D/G drum
I assume the FL is the FWD and FLA is the Quattro 5 speed transmission. Though odd it list the A4 in the FL list but not in the FLA list
Hi Gary, I have just done what you showed us here. I am replacing the pump and C clutch plates.
What should I torque the bolts on the pump to also the bolts that hold the middle spline.
Thanks
I do pump bolts to 90 to 100 inch pounds. What other bolts are you talking about, the 3 center support bolts?
the pump bolts and the two long ones just on the inside row. There are 5 along the circle of the two long bolt that hold the center shaft on. Would those be the same.@@GaryFerraro
@@bigshott9117 I believe i do the inside bolts to about 70 inch pounds
@@GaryFerraro thanks
I placed the Pump and C clutch into the housing and there are 9 screws that tighten this up. do you oil the screws or just dry . What do you torque them to?
This now finishes the internal rebuild of the clutches.
Thanks for your videos on this subject. Couldn't have done it without your help. Its a 2006 Audi A4 Quattro Cabriolet.
Hi Gary, i have a 5hp18 at BMW e36 and cant reverse when i switch for reverse Go forward same with neutral, can u give some tips i dont know what to do
Make sure linkage is ok, if it is, may have a clutch pack locked together
Hi Gary, I have an 08 Audi A4 Quattro automatic. Drove the car in my shop, jacked up the front end to do struts, put the car back on the ground and it rolled back still in park. I can hear the parking pawl engaging shifting from a gear to park, but the car wont move. I did not remove the axles to do the struts and there is connection between the hubs and axle shafts, but something is broken between the axle flanges and parking gear. Any ideas?
Sounds like something happened to an axle, can you put the car on a lift and put it in drive see whats turning
Hi Garry, after learning loads form you video's Im going to rebuild a ZF6HP, but was after your advice. I see you using some blue grease when you rebuild a trans. What type do you recommend, and will it need to be compatible with ZF 6 Lifeguard fluid which is fully synthetic I think.
The blue grease is assembly lube that melts when hot, That stuff is called Dr Tranny assembly Goo or Trans Gel Blue, will be fine. Go with life guard 6. If your going to rebuild, install a bushing kit and make sure you do solenoids as well, the shift adapts will have to be reset. What is wrong that your rebuilding the trans?
@@GaryFerraro The trans is in a 200K Miles LR3 and I don't have any serious issues, but I want to rebuild it so its reliable as transport horses in a large trailer. Breaking down would be a nightmare!
Only minor symptoms I get are when the trans is cold it feels like Im pulling away in a high gear, a little sluggish. After 5 min its fine though. Other issue is some oscillation of the RPM's when Im pulling up hill (TCC Ive been told). If I use manual gear selection and a few more RPM's that the Auto would select I don't get the oscillations in RPM's.
So no really bad problems but the Trans has done 205K Miles is it deservers some TLC!
@@iannorfolk3288 You certainly got your moneys worth on that. What your feeling could be a lazy solenoid
@@GaryFerraro - My plan was to overhaul the trans, then have a look at the valve block and mechatronic. I actually have a donor 6HP26 with a burnt E clutch which as done 100K and shot bushings. I could swap the solenoids and clear the adaptive and see what's that feels like.
@@iannorfolk3288 did you rebuild your trans? Did it go well? Would you do it yourself again?
Hey Gary I have a 07 335i, with a 4f85 code( transmission monitoring 5-4 circuit), what are my options the dealer said i need a new trans. The car has around 140000 miles .
assuming this is full of fluid, i would say you either have bad solenoids or a worn rear stator bushing, when the bushing wears out, it allows E clutch apply oil to escape causing issues in the higher gears. You could try a solenoid set first, you do not have to pull the trans for this just the valvebody, shifts adapts must be reset after new solenoids are installed, if same issue then trans has to come out for a bushing in the pump stator
What is the operating oil temp on the 5hp-19 my transmission acts up at 150c wich is like 300f is this normal temps? What can cause overheating?
No thats way to hot, usually around 210F, do you have any codes?
Thank you much for the video. Excellent work.
Hi Gary.. Maybe you can shed some info..still have the P0741, however now after driving the car for about 30 mins or so, when I go from D to R vise versa, I'm hearing this marble type rattling sound that occurs for about 2-4 seconds. Sometimes when it's park it'll do the same sounds at idle and when I Rev it above 1k the noise goes away. Obviously my torque convertor needs to be repalced, but is this also a sign the pump or reverse drum is failing? When I drive the car, it shifts and drives normally for now, thanks in advance 👍🏽
what kind of car and what was done so far?
@@GaryFerraro 2003 330ci I have not repaired anything other than replacing Trans fluid and filter with the Castrol transmax atf fluid..
Excellent video along with the teardown video, I learned a great deal. I’d appreciate your guidance, My 5HP19FL in my wife’s 06 Cayman S with 57k miles is slipping, as if placed in neutral, in 3rd and 4th gears when accelerating. It happens under all operating conditions, hot or cold. 1st, 2nd, and reverse operate normal. I checked trans codes 0733(trans slipping 3rd gear) & 0734(trans slipping 4th gear). I changed fluid two times w/ new filter. I cleaned the Valve Body and solenoids. I replaced the TCU. All with no change, same failure mode. Failure analysis is pointing to a worn F Drum friction discs or moved sleeve on the F Drum. I'm stumped because when I disconnect the TCU and the trans defaults to 4th gear operation in safe mode, it doesn’t not slip at all including hard acceleration. If the trans doesn’t slip in safe mode (4th gear), which applies the F Drum, can I assume the F Drum and frictions are good. If so, is the only remaining failure point the valve body? What else can I check? I don’t want to unnecessarily remove the transmission. Thanks!
Very well could be a problem with the F clutches or drum, when the sleeve moves usually faults when hot. What was the condition of the fluid when you first dropped the pan. Clutch may not slip with TCM unplugged because the line pressure is jacked way up,
@@GaryFerraro The fluid was dark with slight burnt odor. The magnets had a thin layer of residue. Also, I captured the trans data with my diagnostic tool when shifting through the gears and noticed current being applied to the EDS solenoid 3 while in 3rd and 4th gear ( range of 150mA to 600mA), yet the application charts shows it should be off (~50mA). I'm baffled by that. Is there any input to the TCU that would apply current to the EDS solenoid when it should be off?
Hi gary thanks for your explanation
I have e46 325i
I felt from 1 to 2 gear need high rpm and harsh down shift and same issue for 2 to 3 gear. There is no error code yet.
All that issue is intermitent.
Is it cause by bad drum? Thanks in advance
have you checked the fluid level
@@GaryFerraro seems ok no leak..
Now i going to disassambly my trany..
My trany oil still fine too. I just change 20000 km ago..
Im still no clue at these time 😂
@@zalroo537 The EPC Solenoid can cause this, a sign of a bad epc solenoid is harsh downshifts. There is a single solenoid on the upper part of the valvebody, this is the EPC solenoid
@@GaryFerraro hi thanks for your advice
I recently replaced all clutch, all the seals and oil.
but sometimes the shift from gear 1 to gear 2 takes a bit longer to reach 3000 rpm which should be enough at 2000 rpm during normal use. is it possible because my selonoid is bad?
fyi no error code yet
thanks in advance
@@zalroo537 When it shifts later are you pushing the gas down further or always the same+
We have a 1999 Porsche 911 in the shop and my info says it has the 5HP19, is that correct? If so, is ZF Lifeguard 5 the fluid to use in these units? Thanks for any help, keep putting out these videos, if you started a Patreon I’d be happy to donate as well, these vids are priceless! Hard to find good help in this industry
Very possible it is the 5HP19 i had a Boxter here about 6 months ago and it was a 5HP19, there should also be a tag on the trans, Life guard 5 would be the fluid
Is Ravenol transmission fluid appropriate as well? I just changed fluid/filter in my 2003 Passat Zf5HP19.
Gary, I have a 2002 Audi Allroad 142K Miles. 5HP-19 Serial No. 0358652 or 1060 040053 from the transmission tag. I have had a sudden, shocking, drastic thump when lightening my accelerator pedal pressure in the process of lowering from 45-60 mph to lower speed. Startling and somewhat violent. Once after a 40 mile drive, another after a about 30 mile drive. It has happened twice in the last two weeks. It seems to operate very smoothly otherwise. The transmission forward (engine end) leaks lightly. Please advise. Thanks for the education you posted here.
Are there any codes? did the trans ever go into safe mode?
@@GaryFerraro Hello Gary, thanks. The transmission resumed normal operation in each case. If codes show in some manner in the Allroad on the instrument display I cannot say, the display is failing and shows partial information. I do have a BlueDriver Scan tool, did a full vehicle scan and only had one O2 reset come up. I had replaced all four air shocks and noticed the light oil leaking at the front of the transmission area.
@@stevebell4003 ok, thanks for the update, keep an eye on that trans leak, very common to leak from, the front. with these units
Hi Gary, seems you got these transmissions figured out, i got a Audi 2,5tdi with the ZF5hp19a and my torque converter is faulty, have you done any work with converters? if so, do you know what the difference between the diesel and gasoline is? cani put a converter from a gasoline on my diesel enegine? partnumbers is 01v323593 and 01v323593A. appriciate if you got some input.
I would say you cannot change the converters, what code do you have that makes you say the converter is bad?
I got code 17125 P0741 035 torque converter lock-up clutch performance or stuck off. I have googled it, and it seems a rubber gasket inside is loose. I found lots og gasoline converters at decent prices, but no for diesel, exept new ones, at a horrific price.
@@hloddovic17Could you have your rebuilt? This code means that the converter can no longer fully lock-up. Other things can cause this as well, such as pump bushing, valvebody issue, or block bypass valve, converters are a problem as well, the clutch comes apart
I do not think its been rebuilt before, i read the converter is as close to guarantee as posible to be the issue. I saw some tip about the valvebody and solenoid and such.. i guess i have to take it apart.
@@hloddovic17 The small seal that seals over the input shaft inside the converter always tears and give you a code, the car drives and upshifts good?
Hi gary. Can i use the zf 5hp19 from a bmw on my Porsche cayman. Like if im finding the same model of transmission but it has come off a bmw will it be the same as 5hp 19 going on a Porsche cayman 2007
I'm going to say no, they are different
@@GaryFerraro and is it advisable to repair a transmission with water oil mix ? Or its better to replace it ?
@@mohibzafar4585 If it has water in the trans, better to overhaul or replace it
Hi Gary Thanks for the informative videos! I have an interesting issue with the 5HP19 maybe you can point me in the right direction?
Cold start not always but a lot of the time when Reverse is selected you can feel engagement but it feels half as strong as usual. Reverse works but never really pushed it. When selecting Drive the same half engagement feeling occurs and the car moves forward for a second then slips. Sometimes it wil move forward in M1 - M3 sometimes not until the ignition is cycled. When this happens engagement is strong like normal but if it's not warmed up sometimes has a delay downshifting coming to a stop, which leads to slip then bang. Sometimes it downshifts correctly and won't slip if acceleration is gentle. Now 5 - 10 mins of driving have passed it has good engagement. No slipping. However sometimes in Manual mode it wont make it to M2 coming to a stop. It says in M3 .
Biggest concern is car feels like it's fighting itself majority or the time, like its not freely accelerating. Gas mileage is very bad. D/G drum was replaced about 7 years ago maybe but clutches were replaced. Everything looked ok.
I did a fluid and filter change a week ago and noticed the filter was slathered in tje grey greasy sludge. When I changed filter and fluid it drove great after.
1 week later we are back to the original cold start slip (which some days does nlt occur)
Hard acceleration when warm is ok.
Does this sound anything like an electronic issue or valve body? Or more mechanical ?
Almost sounds like something is coming apart and getting into the filter, if i had to guess, i would say converter may be the problem
@@GaryFerraro Gary I just recently got around to rebuilding this transmission. Everything seemed ok at first. Converter came off easily, clutches looked ok, mimimal burn marks on C steels . bad hardened o rings on D/G drum piston outer o rings. Now I did find something concerning that I have never heard anyome talk about on 5hp19s. The E clutch drum and the intermediate shaft have some damage. They look like they (the lips) have been hit hard against something and created a flat spot. As a result i could not pull apart the intermediate shaft and E drum without tapping out the steels/frictions. And the lip of the E drum has metal shavings peeling off. (Had to file down the lips to get the original pieces to connect and separate) Have you ever seen this on the 5hp19? I ordered these to replace but im wondering what caused this.
@@antoniooo8906 Never really seen that, was something rubbing on the E drum? You can send pictures if you like,
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Best videos I found on the ZF5 hp
My grandson’s 1999 Porsche boxster drove it for about 4,000 miles, blew out the transmitter front seal. Pulled transmission, torque converter dated 2017. Fluid and filter clean, no marks on converter nose, bushing looked good, no other known issues. Replaced seal, lasted 50 miles before blew out again.
Pulled transmission again, removed pump and front clutches, all like new, installed new o-rings and seals and bushing. Took valve body apart, all valves seem to move smoothly, cleaned and reassembled with new check balls, gasket and orifices. All ohm readings were good on solenoids. Vent tube clear. Relief hole between front bushing and seal clear.
On test drive, found it shifts harsh between 2nd and 3rd, at 18 years old, he wasn’t sure if that’s the way it always was. Otherwise transmission seems fine
Before he goes off to collage with it, with the harsh 2-3 shift, should I look further? What else would cause the seal to blow out?
Thanks again
did the converter look rebuilt even though had a date on it?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply, no signs of being rebuilt, nice weld, had a QR sticker on it, but iPhone couldn’t read it. painted gray, nose looks like it ran true in the bushing, no blueing, bushing was egg shaped by less then .002.
Harsh 2-3 shift only after 20 mile drive. Shifted nice on a 10 mile drive after engine cooled. Water is passing through the heat exchanger so I don’t believe it’s getting too hot
No history when it was done as the owner passed.
@@JimKrauciunas I would put a rebuilt converter, many problems with leaking from the front are converter related. . So the 2-3 shift is ok for 10 minutes and as the car heats up it gets worse?
@@GaryFerraro The world needs more people like you!
First test drive was to warm up the fluid to check the level, second was a quick one before a storm. Try again today
A leak I can understand, but the seal gets pushed out.
Feliz Ano Novo! Excelentes explicações.
My VW Passat TDI B5 is slipping completely on 3rd and 5th. Any idea what might cause that? It has the 5HP19 transmission.
Scopperloit Does thisby chance happen when the car gets hot?
@@GaryFerraro No, it happens from cold start. I had some strange behavior with reverse, as if something in the transmission was knocking hard, with spikes of torque throughput. However, that disappeared the same day. Did a fluid change, found 3-4 small metal chunks in the pan, looked like clutch fragments to me. Now I experience no problems with reverse, but it slips past 3rd gear and slips when it gets to 5th. 1st, 2nd and 4th runs fine. After 2-3 minutes of driving, the transmission goes into limp mode.
I'm not driving the car anymore, it's just parked in the garage, but if there is a chance to save the transmission it would be a fun project for me. I'd like to try a rebuild, but I'm having difficulty obtaining the parts. I'm skeptical to what I've found on eBay... Do you have any tips?
@@CarlHenrik125 If it goes into limp mode can you tell me what codes you have?
Im in the process of rebuilding a zf5hp19 out of a 2001 bmw how much leakage should you have at the f clutch when air checking it? Both my d and g are tight and hold but my f clutch engages but leaks by. I’ve replaced the f drum and tried two sets of seals on the carrier.one by zf then the other by precision. Wondering if I have a bad carrier.
I air check with 50 psi, is the clutch applying? You could try wet air testing it see if it makes a difference, put some trans fluid into the port then air check it
@@GaryFerraro thanks for replying I’m sure you are busy. so here is the quick run down. With the trans assembled and valve body out I have both wet tested and dry tested at 30 and 50 psi. Same result. I get a lot of leak by at the f clutch. I have already burned up a set of clutches in the f drum. So I know I have a massive fluid leak in that circuit. I replaced the drum with a new zf drum and trans kit. The f drum is a rotating assembly so I expected a little leak by when stationary. The clutches engage but don’t hold at all as the pressure bleeds out pretty quickly. I measured the tail shaft end play according to the zf manual for the rear shim. The factory shim is 1.7mm after calculating the depth. I calculated a 2.4mm shim which is available. The trans had 213k and I know the user abused it. At this point I’m wondering if there is case stretch and shimming it may tighten it up. Or my other thought is that the bushings in the carrier are worn with too much axial play. Or the carrier needs to be replaced. I’m a spec guy and finding these specs are very hard to find.
@@Butternutgarage what was original problem?
@@GaryFerraro the original problem was stuck in third when hot, reverse slip on engagement. Had code 31 from my snap on scanner, gear monitoring. It was sent out to 3 different shops and at some point the trans ecu blue and black connectors were swapped with in the tcm connector. so when I got to the car I had no tcm communication. Repaired the communication problems and road tested. Car drove fine when cold. Once it got to operating temp. All the tall tale signs of f clutch ring drop. Pulled the trans and disassembled. Found the ring had moved. Clutches were in ok shape. I burned up the new ones in less than 30 miles.
Hi Gary thanks for your video and expertise on these ZF gearboxes. I have a A6 allroad with a ZF 5HP19FLA. When engaging D I get a vibration whilst my foot is on the brake. Gears change ok, slight slip from 2-3 but no other obvious symptoms. Your help would be greatly appreciated, I have uploaded the issue here ua-cam.com/video/oizivjZaR5I/v-deo.html
Something like that is very hard to trouble shoot, was anything done to the car before this started?
Gary Ferraro some routine maintenance was performed, I have also had an economical remap done on the vehicle. I haven’t had anything done in terms of gear box. The fluid was checked and the level was full but the fluid was black. Like I said it still shifts ok at the moment and no other issues are present.
@@Lspd95 ok, so no vibration in park or neutral?
Gary Ferraro correct no vibration in P or N only in drive when the brakes are applied. In higher RPMS/high torque a vibration can also be felt within the cabin. Like you said it’s very hard to pinpoint what it could be, sometimes it reduces itself, it’s more prominent when on a gradient
Thanks Gary. Hope you have a great 2019 year!
Thank you bill. you too.
Thank you very much for this video!
Thanks for watching
Very good video
Thanks gary. Its very informative. I have the same transmission on my
Porsche Cayman 07 . It used to have issues while shifting from 2nd to 3rd but now it has gone even to the 4th and 5th. The transmission oil is in a bad state aswell seems like the previous owner didn’t changed it. It has 200k km on it. Any specific advice?
any codes? Fluid is full
Noo codes. Checked with the scanner.
@@GaryFerraro what is the capacity of the fluid. Like how much should come out? I will try taking it out tomorrow.
@@GaryFerraro also is there any way to know if its low without taking it out ? Like somehow topping it up or something? I don’t wanna over fill it or something . Only if we had a dip stick lol 😂
@@mohibzafar4585 yes, has a fill/check plug just above pan rail, have to check with engine running to see if it's full
Is there any explanation why on BMW ZF5HP19 TC clutch starts to engage by itself? It works when the computer engages it but then it is also trying to engage when it is not supposed to (like at the speeds that are below TC clutch engagement, especially felt in 5th gear). Have replaced the solenoids - no change whatsoever.
Are there any TCC codes present? common problem is for the seal to tear inside the converter
@@GaryFerraro No codes are present. It is just I am noticing it while driving, TC clutch is trying to engage fully not just in 5th gear but in 3rd and 4th gears, you can see the RPMs staring to creep down. I thought about TC clutch seals, what it basically means is that the small seal that is visible inside the TC is slowly leaking back and loosing the pressure behind the TC clutch during its partial engagement in 3rd, 4th and 5th that is controlled by TCM using EDS-4 valve.
@@NilsJakobson Yes it is EDS4 it gets applied from input to the computer, like engine temp, throttle opening, vehicle speed. all that looks normal?
@@GaryFerraro The car has no other issues, no codes. I had a laptop with INPA connected to monitor the transmission parameters particularly what EDS4 looks like, it showed normal current being applied by TCM during partial engagement but soon after that the TC clutch kept trying to engage completely on its own even when I could see no change in solenoid current. So I am bringing the TC to a transmission shop tomorrow for a rebuild. I have taken the valve body apart hoping that the little rubber accumulator that is in the pressure rail with EDS4 has bursted but it was fine.
@@NilsJakobson If you have the trans out, drain the converter as best you can, you can see the seal to see if it's torn
Hi,
Great videos!
Do you know about the interchangeability of zf5hp19 valve bodies? I have a 2004 TDI passat (GMR code zf5hp19) and would like to know if I can just throw any other zf5hp19 valve body in, or if the valve bodies themself have specific arrangements/part numbers.
issue: a sporadic slip in gear 4 and 5 when cruising (seems more obvious when slowly backing off the throttle). I believe its pressure loss through valve body resulting in loss coupling pressure (TCC clutch pressure). slip is not even noticeable by tach but definitely felt. Otherwise a seemly perfect transmission
anyways, thank you for the videos; hope to hear back from you,
-M
Any codes? Does this happen when hot? does car shift ok cold?
@@GaryFerraro No codes. possible temperature correlation (but I really can't say for sure. If any, it is a minor correlation). Shifts fine 99% of time. only seems to occur at light throttle; typically when easing off of it (just reached top of gradual incline or just passing cruising speed so I'm lifting off the throttle ever so slightly)
Thanks for reply!
-M
Regarding codes: Can there be codes without the check engine light? I haven't hook anything up to read codes, but I've never seen check engine light
@@ucsdbaan There can be yes
@@ucsdbaan ok, what do you feel a flared shift?
Only, the sound should be better..
Thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro thank you for sharing knowledge with us.
Thank you Gary
Thanks for watching
hello Gary thank you for all the great vids. I have a 05 explorer 5r55s I just put together but I have no reverse engagement. all other gears work including low and high 4x4. Do you have any recommendations? I reused the original vb and SB. thank you sir.
ok so in reverse the direct clutch is on and the reverse band is on, this upshifts good, how is the 3-4 shift?
@@GaryFerraro I had the truck in the air and tested it b4 I put any load on the trans. i will get back to you after a road test in the am. I just dont get any wheel movement In reverse on the stands. I also want to mention I used a Superior shiftkit which calls to use only one check ball.
Goodmorning Gary, bad news it stays in first gear as I get to 30 mph it revs up to 3-4000 rpm . Can you help me please. I dont have any codes or lights on the cluster.
@@jsjizzaone3590 Does it make the shift at 30mph? if so, it's probably going from 1st to 3rd
@@GaryFerraro it's not shifting at all. the check transmission message came on and the OD/OFF light flashes now. I still dont have any codes. I did use the AJ1E replacement servo pistons instead of drilling out the the bores.
any fault code that should I know for the no reverse situation?
No, no reverse the D/G drum is blown
@@GaryFerraro but after sometimes, the reverse is back but pretty much slipping and require high rev to move it and does that still indicate the D/G drum blown? the car just finish engine rebuild due to engine seize and not been running for about almost 5 yrs
@@Linoge279 How is forward? have all gears?
@@GaryFerraro forward is working fine and when I put in D gear, I can feel it engaging but not for the reverse and just before that I have replaced with new oil & filter with no sign of chunk of metal or rubber as you have mention in the video
@@GaryFerraro The only fault code that I have is P0720 Stall speed.
hi gary
i want your help with 09g transmission this trans have propebly a cross leak making the k1 clutch to be applied after 100 kmh
What happens the clutch keeps burning or is there a bind-up on a shift?
Gary Ferraro the clutch keep burning and wont let the car accelerate above 100 kmh in 6th gear only
@@issaalazzabi6087 Take a pressure gauge and go into the K1 clutch tap. The K1 clutch is on in 1st -4th and comes off in 5th and 6th, see if you have pressure on the K1 clutch in 5th and 6th gear.
Gary Ferraro ok gary i will do it
but lets say there is a pressure on k1 pressure tab
@@issaalazzabi6087 then you have a cross leak, i would drive this car cold and hot, may not have the leak until it heats up, but the gauge will tell you.
Thanks for another great video! I have had the 5hp19 (FLA) in 2 different audi allroads over the years (both 2002). My previous one spun the pump bushing and consequently ruined the rest of the transmission, which I had completely rebuilt following that incident. My current one seems to be in good condition (shifts nice and smoothly up and down) and even has some service history (most seem not to have any service history as you know!). The only strange thing that my current one does is that on the highway, if the trans changes down into 4th (when you try to accelerate hard) it changes back into 5th again after perhaps 1 second, and then back down to 4th again. I never came across this behavior previously - have you ever heard of or seen this? Its fairly disconcerting and I feel like it can't be good for the transmission to be shifting between 4th and 5th while the engine output is high. I was thinking perhaps it might have something to do with fluid pressure.
Did this produce any trouble codes? does this happen when the car is hot?
@@GaryFerraro no trouble codes. It does happen when the car is up to temperature, but I don't know if it happens when the car is not up to temperature as the highway is always about 5-10km from journey start.
I suppose I can log trans fluid temperature to check
@@gldgti If it happens when car is hot, may have a problem with F clutch drum
Sounds like something that happened to me yesterday on my A4 Quattro. Transmission was undecided between 4th and 5th. Shifting using manual tiptronic helped for a short time. It had hard shifts going in and out of 4th. Finally the pump gave out and started slipping with a groaning noise. Hopefully it’s not going bad again.
@@VidVwr00 Did it start to leak from the front seal?