ZF6HP26 Teardown
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this video, i teardown a ZF6HP26 trans out of a jaguar, S type 2005. Customer is complaining of shifting issues. I found worn bushings and 4 solenoids were bad, car only has 58,000 miles. key points in disassembly and reassembly of this unit. Enjoy
It's always enjoyable to watch a master at his craft!!
Damon Thank you
FYI anyone who comes across this, replacing solenoids solved my problem, so far. I had slip on 4-5 upshift, jolt on 5-6, and 2-1 downshift bump. Codes came up 4f8A and also 4f86 for 4-5 upshift but no other codes. Originally i just attempted with the bridge and finger seals, but that did not solve the problem. I have been able to test the car on at least one road trip and a few high load shifts, and so far so good. If anyone buys a car with a higher mileage ZF automatic transmission (over 120k miles, 200k km) at the first sign of transmission issues I would recommend this service.
I would recommend disconnecting the battery during this service.
When putting the car back together make sure the sliding arm on the valvebody is aligned with the shift selector on the trans housing.
I have a had a few of these were solenoids fixed the shifting issues, i actually have a video that i will be uploading in a few weeks on a BMW X5
Hi leifer20 did yours car went into limp mode? I have a ford Fg 2010 zf6 6speed with the same problem 5th and 6th gear ratio is out that’s what scan error is my first 4 are fine but as soon as it goes uphill changes high gears stuck onto 3rd gear and no gear movement unless switch off and on the ignition
Any help
GREAT JOB MY FRIEND FROM CANCÚN SALUDOS..!
Wow, nice love that place
Hi Gary, will the internal parts on this transmission fit a 2005 BMW 545i 4.4 transmission it also has the ZF6HP26.
it is a 6 speed automatic from 03/05 You have seen the parts that I need for this transmission, some fried clutch drums. This transmissions are a lot cheaper than the ones for BMW's
are you getting a transmission from another car thats uses this trans and it's not a BMW?
@@GaryFerraro only if the internal parts fit the transmission for my BMW. I can't find this transmission
For BMW here in the local salvage yards. But there are transmissions
for 05 Jaguars type S and they are
Cheaper than the ones for BMW.
That is why I was asking if parts were interchangeable.
Sir. Thanks a lot
Hi Gary, thanks for yours videos. I have a question: I have an Audi A6 Allroad with this gearbox tipe and I've noticed something strange. When I reverse and the car has no impediment, it works normally. But if an obstacle blocks it or I'm trying to push something(like a caravan uphill), the engine goes up to 2000 revolutions accelerating fully but there is no movement. It's like there wasn't much force backing up, but forward it seems to have more strength. The gearbox has about 180,000 miles (300k km) and a new converter.
Any ideas?
Thank you very much for your help. Greetings.
ok, first fluid level is good? 2nd, when you put the car in reverse and hit the gas, does it seem like it falls out of reverse and revs?
Gary Ferraro: Excellent videos ZF 6HP26 these transmission are not reliable . But Gary you make it very easy thanks for posting these repair videos .
They have a couple of common issues, the stator bushings wear out, solenoids, mechatronic sleeve leaks and the bridge seal cracks, there all fairly simple repairs, They can fail sometimes with low mileage
Gary Ferraro : Thanks for answering this is my transmission ZF6HP26
The problem I had about 5 months ago was that bridge seal. My car runs fine now BMW 750 li The car has KM 1,75000 What a expensive part the bridge seal it really causes lots of issues the gears won't change will jump back in to park . BMW 750 Li series transmission failsafe mode activated . I'm going wait till next service for transmission which is at KM 2,25000 after this i will sell it. After watching your best repairs and very nicely explained videos each answer and advise is worth millions of dollars excellent work.
Thank you and thanks for watching
Cool -my 2004 Jaguar XJR has been running excellent with this transmission for 200k miles, some of my colleagues have 320k miles on theirs.. change your fluid every 15k miles and never believe a "lifetime sealed" trans fluid theory because those gaurantees are only until the warranty expires
Здравствуйте брат! Как ты мне помог. Я не знал как эту стопорное кольцо снять. Хорошо что нашёл ваши ролики. На 41 минуте. Барабан.
My jaguar transmission lunges and bucks, i changed the pan and oil, what do you think it is?
Torque converter
So this transmission are not reliable, very bad, 58k miles is too low, not goog at all.
Main problem with these units are the solenoids and bushings
I've had 3 ZFs all fail at very low km.. and all with what appear to be torque converter issues.. one at only 30,000km and one with 54,000km... Very disappointed
Hi, saw you video, and I would like to get some help from you. My BMW X6 350d zf26 goes into limp mode when upshifting from 4th to 5th gear. The error code I’m getting is 4F85 gear monitoring coupling E. I have replaced the adapter seals+bridge seal, and put in new ATF fluid, reset the adaptations, but the problem is still there. No fault codes and issues while driving locally in the city, when I am using gears 1-4 only. Please help with your advice. Would replacing the stator bushing on clutch E solve the problem?
Many thanks vilmos
Hi, I’ve replaced the E clutch bushing and the pump bushing, this solved the problem.
Johnson Daniel Young Brian Lopez Scott
Hi Gary I have a Discovery 3 with a ZF6HP26 I have had a gearbox repayment but they gave me one from a 4.0 V6 petrol I have a TDV6 diesel we fitted the box with the old converter as the petrol is only 3 boult and had the old converter rebuilt and had the valve body completely serviced. but the car sits in idle on full load only way to drive is to take foot off break and wait till car is moving before any gas Can you tell me if there is something different with the 2 box's spent to much money now I can only think to rebuild the old box. Regards Peter.
Very good video, and kind of funny, the whole video is 41 mins long but yet it seems to take only 10 mins to remove the whole valve body ^^.
It's a real shame you have to remove the oil pan to perform the mechatronic sleeve replacement. We did an oil change last year (was running REALLY low on oil, probably removed only 2-3L and it was black like that too) but I didn't know it was that simple to change the sleeve so I kinda closed my eyes on this, thinking "it wouldn't matter so much", but when I see how simple it is, I have so many regrets.
That sleeve likes to leak, very common problem, i have a BMW at the shop now for a pan and sleeve
whats the difference between Transmissions GA6HP26Z to 6HP26 ? Thanks
Awesome video. Clear and hugely informative. Gary have you encountered customers complaining about the 'squalk' sound when HP26 shifts from 3 to 4? Car is a 2005 Jaguar xj8 with a 4.2. Same trans as you are tearing down on the video. Jag used to sell a 1 liter bottle of 'magic juice' for around $200... but didn't work on all transmissions. Do you know what is the source of the sound? I have rebuit the valvebody... no change, charged all cylindrical seals and bridge seal, car has correct lifegaurd 6 fluid. Please advise. Thanks!
Master of Auto Transmissions,,, nice work...
Thank you
Hey man how’s it going ? I just found your videos on google an there actually the most informative videos I’ve seen ! I’m in Australia an looking at building a zf 6hp26 for my ford falcon xr6 turbo it’s fully forged an the next thing I need to build is the zf , I was just wondering if you have any videos of you swapping the intermediate shafts with the 6r80 shafts an pumps ive got very little knowledge on transmissions so any help or input would be appreciated thanks in advance
I was also going to use the exeedy 1000hp clutch kit
Have question where can l get the kit transmission part? Thank you
Gary Ferraro : Thanks for the repair videos. As you know I had problem with my BMW 750li it was not reversing I had changed the transmission cooler lines . Now what I did was I added a extra transmission cooler to the line and I did drained the transmission fluid again this time I purchased a Castrol Trans MAX 10 quarts . But I could not open the fill plug at the transmission. I had to refill from the radiator cooling intake line by using GRACO spray machine . I purchased a 5 gallon empty paint pail which I used to fill the transmission fluid it was very easy that way I didn't have to raise the car . I attached 3/8 T hose to cooler lines at radiator with low pressure from Graco spray machine by filling 4 quarts at a time and started the car for 10 minutes then filled 4 quarts more and started for another 10minutes now when I was filling last 2 quarts it was going in to transmission very slowly but it all went safely. The car runs very smooth like new has no signs on cluster , IT does reverse no problem. The BMW dealers had refused to work on this car I took it to dealer they could not believe that this is running so good one of there mechanic even drove it , said it's impossible how did you manage to fix it come work for us we pay very good but I said no thanks I'm fine with my job. I just want you guys to see that it does not need a new transmission. I'm still driving it runs great and very smooth . Thanks for you videos they are a great help.
I knew there was a way to get the gear set out of the A drum... Thanks a lot!
No problem, glad i could help. Thanks for watching. Gary
hey garry great job,here is the issue of my zf on a 2002 bima x5.car starts cold takes off and drives for about 5 miles ,after that when it is warmed up starts the erratic shifting and falls into safefail mode.any idea if this needs complete overhaul or partial fixing will do?
That depends on what the problem is, if this went into failsafe, can you scan the car to see what codes it has. When it starts acting up, how is the car from a dead stop? The A drum likes to go bad on this trans
Unusual for the bushings to be worn at 58K. I see these units do 250 KMS sometimes more in Ford taxi cabs before shifting issues. Trick is to fit a descent size oil cooler. Cheers Gary
Not only were the bushings bad, but 4 solenoids were blocked.
@@GaryFerraro can you unblock the solenoids rather than replace?
@@cliffharrington6500 No really can't do that, but they came way down in price better just to replace
Thanks Gary! Will you do the full overhaul video for this or any other ZF transmission in the future?
I will certainly try, its so busy all the time but if it quites down some, i should be able to. Thanks for watching. Gary
Gary is the ZF6HP26A much different to the 26 you tear down in this video ? I have a 26A in a Ford Territory AWD that needs a strip down and inspection .
The difference may be that you would have a transfer case on the back of the unit to make it AWD instead of just rear wheel drive. What is the problem with the car. Sorry so late with reply, i totally missed yours. Gary
Hi Gary Ferraro - would you recommend changing oil with ZF original if there are no problems with 6HP26A?
Thank you
these are suppossed to be lifetime oil per BMW however what they dont tel you is lifetime of tranny is 100k miles. you can change it and there is a specific procedure that refill must be done between 140-150 degrees while running until it drips out. you can also use a ford version called mercon v? maybe! available at advance auto parts for $9/qt
Thanks for the video. I now understand how my problem gearbox works. Although I'm still having an issue with it. My local transmission shop had 'reconned' my gearbox after it was popping out of 4th/5th/6th and throwing e-clutch faults at a cost of £1600 (about $2k). I got it back and 2 days later did the same, so they replaced the valve body and solenoids (which I thought was part of a recon in the first place) now the e clutch fault has gone but it slips and makes a wooshing sound and throws a ratio monitoring fault clutches b-e when accelerating in 5th gear - only when car is nice and hot (gearbox temp measures 87c when it faults). They seem to think it needs another solenoid but I'm wondering if they've not properly rebuilt the gearbox? - since the last time it did this I have now developed a judder u can feel through the whole car (even in park) from 700-1700 rpm. Hoping you could shed some light before it goes back in for the 3rd rebuild in 2 weeks?
Do you know if they installed a bushing kit? Not sure if the judder is the trans if you feel it in park. What is the year, make and model of your car?
Hi Gary, nice video. Do you have a video on how to replace the front seal on the 6HP-26? Is there a special tool to remove the seal? Thank you, Efrain.
No, no special tool, may need a seal puller or something with a hook on it to get the seal out, but the new one should just go right in, just becareful hitting it in, try to do it even, hit it more on the edge so the top of the seal does not get damaged
Hello Gary, I am the Julio of Brazil and I have a land rover discovery 2.7 2008 diesel with a transmission zf6hp26 and she is with 1 and 2 sliding, I am also mechanic but I have not yet dismantled a gearbox like that. will it be the disks or internal leak?
Sounds like internal leak, do you have any codes? Have you checked the fluid level? The mechatronic seal on these units like to leak
Gary Ferraro the falt code are p0731 and p0732.
Ok, so you have gear ratio error in 1st and in 2nd, have you checked the fluid level in the trans?
Gary, I really enjoy Ur videos, U make it seem so easy and can be assured what U inform us of is very reliable, my question too u is where do I get the bench buddy's to clean the valve body's with? They look like metal pipe cleaners .
Any transmission part supplier should sell them, i bought mine from transtar
oh i forgot to mention was cause that transmission to have no reverse?
The trans in the video was not shifting correctly, it had reverse.
Gary,
Have a 2005 BMW 745LI with the 6hp26.
Getting 5140 and 1720, no crank, no start.
Pulled tranny changed bushings, put it back together. Fired up, then quit and then nothing.
Figured the starter went. Replaced it still nothing.
Replaced the SGM and programed it, new battery, Still nothing.
Do you think the TCM is toasted?
I can talk to it, but that end of the bus is down. Figured maybe central gateway was it.
Thank you in advance
so you have no communication with TCM?, if so fix that first, check powers and grounds
Hi Mr.gary! I'm planning to buy a 2005 bmw x5 4.4i . My question is, does the zf 6hp26 has better reliability compared to the 5hp24?
Well, they are both good transmissions and they both have there common problems, 6HP26 with bushing wear and 5hp24 with the A drum blowing due to pressure spikes. Back in the day i did a lot of 5hp24 now i do a lot of 6hp26. I don't really see hard part damage on any on the transmissions
Hi Gary ..
Thanks for videos ..I have quick question I have zf6hp26 it was slipping 2-3 and 3-4 for seconds so I have changed the bridge seals and actuators new fluid adaptation cleared .The car shift fine except 3rd gear feel shifttig two time like it shift in to 3 the rpm remain little up for few second then reduce again no slipping ...no codes ..
Any advice
Thanks
Not sure how much you drove the car since resetting adapts but maybe drive more when the car is hot, no codes engine or trans and do lots of starts and stops
Thanks Gary,
I am working on the lepelletier gear train. Info like no. of teeths, centre distance and widths of gear would be really helpful.
Hey Gary I need the last 2 bearings on the transmission case where can I find them ?
can you send me a picture.......gsferraro@yahoo.com would like to see which ones
Gary, you are the best in explaining the
correct procedure of of disassembling
a transmission.
Thank you Tony
Gary are you going to do another video on build back up on the zf6hp26?
I think eventually i will, little hard for me right now, shop is crazy busy.
Bonjour Karu,je pense que si tu connais un peu en mécanique et avoir de la patience, en suivant les video de GARY tu pourras démonter ta boite de vitesse.mes je t'avoue que c'est quand même assez compliqué 😥.j'ai essayer je pense avoir réussi. Je vais l'essayer normalement cette semaine.bon courage.ps: Dommage que tu habite si loin😊
Translate to english please
Hey, Gary I just want to thank you for all your videos. They are tremendously helpful and mind opener. It a very joyful video to see how much a person really love what they do. Thanks again God Bless u & family.
Thank you, the shop has been in my family for 51 years
Also thinking of getting the kit and doing it myself....with some overseeing help....where should I go for a kit?
Where are you located?
az
How much should I pay for a full rebuild with the solenoids and all that..?
Probably about 4,000
@@GaryFerraro How much if the home mechanic does the work?
Hi Gary, Thank you so much for taking your time to help me.
My car has E-shift automatic and yes a park button. 2 weeks ago I started the car but a gear logo show on my dashboard and the screen said transmission malfunction, I tried to put it in gears (reverse, n, and drive) but it doesn't go into gear or anything it stays on Park but after about 20-30 minutes of idle I restart the car then the gear logo disappear and I was able to go in gears. Once the car goes into gears it drive very smooth like nothing happen but if I shut down the engine and let it rest for more than 30 minutes the gear logo will come back on and I wont be able to put in gear unless I let it idle for 20-30 minutes. Last week I installed new oil pan/filter and fluid then I started the car added more fluid but I was unable to put in reverse and drive but I did added about 2 more quarts when the car was on. After I added the fluid the car doesnt go into gear anymore even if I let it idle for an hour. Please any advise. Thank you.
Ok, you put back the same amount of oil that came out correct? Does the car go into reverse or drive and jump back to park?
Yes I put back about 4-5 quarts same amount was out. It doesn't move to reverse or drive, it stays in park and there's no sound or movment
OK, so you filled it first with the engine off and when it started to run out, you started it and filled it again til it ran out? Give me the year, make and model again please.
I just looked to see if it tells me how much it takes just with dropping the pan but it doesnt, i dont need the car info i found it
Yes at first engine off then wait until some fluid flow out then I started the car and added about 1 1/2 quart.
Why bother sending solenoids out? They're like $300.
Not sure if they came way down in price when I tore this unit down, but now I always put a set in on every overhaul
Hey mr Garry how do you remove oil pump for e46 m sport 320i gear box
What trans do you have
Bonjour Garytu as reçu les photos de la boite GMmerci Hello
you received the photo of the GM box
thank you
got an e-mail but no photo
Hi. I got my hands on a 2004 xkr portfolio with the 6hp26 that saw a bit of time under water!!! Water got into the trans and was still IN the trans when I got the car. Months had elapsed. So let me ask,,, is it true that the materials on the clutches are bonded with a water based adhesive??? How scared (besides horrified) should I be?
Amazing video(s) btw... I've watched many of yours. I also have a 1990 XJS that I want to put a 700 transmission in and I watched your rebuild video to give myself an idea of whether or not it was something I could do. Still on the fence with that...
Anyways,,, the innerdz (large hardware) of the 6hp26 don't look even as complicated as the 700r4. The valve body, not so much, scary as hell. Is the larger hardware, drums steels and clutches as "straight forward" as they seem?
If I only wanted to exchange (if the water based adhesive is true) clutches. Doable?
Hi Gary, I have an 2006 land rover discovery with a zf6hp26x. When car has warmed up I am experiencing revs fluctuating by about 1-200 rpms on a constant throttle at speeds between 30 and 70mph, more pronounced on an incline. There are no fault codes and everything else is fine. I am in the process of removing the gearbox, but am unsure of exactly where to find the problem. It seems like torque converter clutch problems, is this most likely to be the torque converter, 4,5 and 6 clutch, bushes, or valve body ? Hope you can help. John
With that fluctuation i would think converter, at any time do you feel like a wash board effect or like your driving over railroad tracks
@@GaryFerraro No, its absolutely normal apart from slipping. I did have the torque converter disassembled and inspected, and was told to look for a problem elsewhere. Do you think the negligible wear they found inside the torque converter, could be to blame for the slipping ? Thanks very much for your response. John PS. I am recovering from a head injury, so my memory is not as good as it used to be (I forgot I had sent the converter away already).
gary thank you for a great teardown,inspection video
Hi, I have got a Jag 2.7 Diesel 2005, as I noticed stopping is not precise and the pedal was bit stiff, I took it to the mechanic he changed the break pads and the vacuum pump but still same? what should I do?
At 18:47 you remove the "yoke" (or what ever it's called). My car has a vibration and the yoke can be moved up/down/side to side inside the transmission. Is this a common problem or is it just my luck?
Hey Gary, do you ever see the machined surface of the pump and the transmission case leak? What would be the appropriate repair? Pump removal?
is there are any major different between ZF6P26 and a ZF6R26 ? Thank you
@GaryFerraro Not sure if you are still checking your comments but hoping you can help. I have a 2010 BMW 550i M Sport (102k miles) which I believe has this transmission. I do not have any codes but I am experiencing jolt/shuddering if thats what you want to call it. For example if I am driving on the highway at 60/65mph but have to slow down to about 35/40mph and then I punch the gas to accelerate the car starts jerking/shuddering but eventually smooths out. The other time something happens is int he morning when I dont let the car warm up and I am driving about 25mph coming to a stop taking my car off the gas the car starts shuddering. What do you suggest I change other than the solenoids? I just want to make it sure it gets fixed.
sounds like a possible converter shudder, you can service the trans and put an additive in to see if shudder goes away. The best additive to use is Motorcraft posi additive
@@GaryFerrarothank you for responding. I will have my mechanic give that a try. Is this only a temporary fix? Just wondering if there is a more permanent fix.
@GaryFerraro Wait a second...are you located in Long Island? Are you still working at this same location? I came across a different video showing the banner in the background.
@@sstincone yes, i'm still here
Hey !
I see that one bushing on the E clutch have pocket for thé oil i think
But with the new kit Dura Bond no pocket on this bushing is it normal ?
Thank you
No oil groove, solid bushing, this seals the E clutch apply oil
@@GaryFerraro ok so after the rebuild i have reset the adptations value and i drive 1500km and for the adaptation quick charge Time i have -41 on the B is it normal ?
Thé 6hp26 Works perfectly but i dont understand why i have this value
Thanks
hi gary thanks for sharing videos
what is the scan tool do you use to reset these zf's
I have my snap-on solus
Gary Ferraro thanks gary
do these zf's have mechatronic tcu issues
Sometimes yes they do, and there are people that repair them, when i get them i send them to europe for repair, range sensor codes and speed sensor codes are fairly common
Why doesn't the strip down table tilt towards the drain hole???
Stephan Coriolus
Good 👍💯💯💯💯
Very much a learning experience! I had to subscribe!
Hello Gary, You do great job. Which manufacture type overhaul kit do you recommend to use for ZF6HP26? BMW X5
I only use original ZF on these transmissions, no aftermarket at all
What do you think about the torque converter? Rebuild it or find with less miles? Is remanfactured T/C able to work like OEM?
I would go with rebuilt, they are fine, thats what i use
Thank you Gary for your quick response, waiting for new videos
I upload on the weekends. Thanks for watching
At 15:17, after removing the snap ring, I can't go any further. I'm lost. The last pack doesn't want to go out. At all. I can't figure out why. Do I need to remove the parking brake assembly for this or something else?
Do you have the 4 sealing sleeves out of the case?
@@GaryFerraro Gary you mean the 4 black plastic pipes? Oh not yet. Wow thank you Gary! Have a great weekend!
@@645524pasto They are actually rubber, they go into the center support
I have a bmw 335 with this transmission and I recently let a friend try to do a burn out in my car and she held the brake too hard so the tires weren’t spinning at all after that I had a malfunction code pop up, 2ad0 which is a generic code that pops up when there’s no message from the tcu, and I also have a gear ratio monitoring clutch a code, I’d read the adaptations and they seem to be within spec, my car doesn’t go into any gears though unless I do a reset by holding down the gas pedal for 30 seconds and then start the car again, it will go into 1st and reverse but will fall out of gear as soon as it picks up speed, I was going to do the mechatronics sleeve seal, the bridge seal and the 4 other seals and replace solenoids If needed but I don’t know if that is going to fix the problem and if it does I don’t know if it will fix it fully, I’m around 600tq and don’t want to cheap out so my question is do you think my clutches are gone based on the information I stated, again the adaptation numbers were within spec for each clutch
Have you tried clearing the codes? fluid level full?
@@GaryFerraro yes I’ve cleared the codes and the one 2ad0 comes back on after a few minutes but I think that’s just a generic code, the one monitoring code stays out but still no luck getting it in any gears unless I do that little reset with the gas pedal but I have pulled the pan fluid level was fine, seals didn’t even really look bad, definitely nothing that jumped out, my next move is to get the solenoids tested and even the tcu if I possible, and then most likely will just pull the trans out of the car and take a look at the torque converter, if I have to I will just replace the whole transmission because I found one for cheaper than what it would be to rebuild, if there is a way to send you a video I can show you what she did and there’s a noise it made just after and then this all happened
@@bimmerbois_9784 my e-mail is
gsferraro@yahoo.com. where are you located?
Same 6r80 ford expedation
very similar
Gary, I have the original 6HP26 in my 2005 Jaguar XK8 currently at 146,000 miles. Shifts good in every way, but what specific symptoms should I be watching for to tell me it's time to have it rebuilt?
They would normally give problems in the higher gears 4th,5th and 6th
Hi Gary, just wondering which bush kit you think has better tolerances, Omega Machine or Dura-Bond.The bush kit I used was the one from Omega Machine, wasn't very happy with stator bush tolerance and ended up using Babbitt metal bush from another kit. Also what bearing type do you think is better for wear.. Babbitt metal or Bronze.
I like the dura-bond kit, when babbit bushing come through i usually change them to bronze. Gary
Hi Location of transmission bypass Ford Expedition 2015
Hi Gary, new subscriber here. I have a 2008 BMW 528i. Do you know if I have this transmission? I had a transmission malfunction message, the transmission would downshift by itself to second gear and the only code they found at the shop was "no signal from crankshaft" so they replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the problem went away. That was about 10,000 miles ago and so far so good. The car now has 132,000 miles and I bought it with 100,000. I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed. Do you recommend changing it now? Thanks for the awesome video.
May have a ZF6HP19, If you like my E-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com, E-mail me the vin number and i can see what trans you have.
Is this the same transmission as the 2006 land rover lr3 hse 4.4l?
should be yes
@@GaryFerraro Thank you :)
Hey Gary, I have a question. I have one of these on a bench right now with a pump seal (o-ring) leaking. Is the pump removal and reassembly just as simple as unbolting, pulling out, then putting back in? ZF has a TSB stating the pump should never be removed for normal service, so I am afraid there is a reassembly procedure to get it back in. Thank you!
The valvebody has to come off because of the bridge seal
Very good video. I have a 2008 BMW 650i (zf 6hp28) I have a problem code p0970 low solenoids low pressure. Do I have to replace the whole mechatronic or just the solenoids? Also where is the emergency release level located? I heard I have to move it to release the park before I can take out the mechatronic. Please help. Thanks
Hello,
What exactly is the car doing? will it shift or just failsafe mode? you dont have to release the park to drop the valvebody. You have park by wire(a park button correct?)
Do you have to strip the internals if you just need to remove the stator?
Dear Gary,
I am working on a project on automatic transmission development for two wheelers and Im in the initial phase of it. I took ZF6HP26 as a base and I am stuck with dimensions of planetary gears and torque converter for the modelling and simulation purpose. If u can help me bit with it i will be greatly thankful.
Hello,
I currently do not have any units, but which planet gears do you need dimensions of?
Merci beaucoup Gary .je vais suivre vos conseils et je vous recontacte 😊 Thank you very much Gary I am going to follow your advice(councils) and I contact again you.?? It is possible to have a video for gear box GM??
Your Welcome, I figure your in france, Greetings from New York. Let me know how it goes. What GM transmission video are you looking for? Do you know the type of transmission or year make and model of car.
Hi Gary, I believe I have the same trans in my '03 745LI. The car will not go into any gear and obviously will not move at all. I haven't dove into diagnosing yet but i believe there may be a leak around the pan somewhere. If there is a leak, and the fluid is low, could that cause the car to not want to go into gear with the electronic shifter? Every time I attempt to put it into D or R, it automatically goes back into P and then I get an error from my iDrive system. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me! Love the videos!
sometimes with electronic park in e65 e66, there is a problem with the valve body diaphragm gasket(looks like a domino kinda) and it will try to go into gear from park and go straight back into park. the crack and gaskets get flattened
Wow!! You a really are amazing!! I have to do this soon. I will be following your video the entire way. I have a problem with my transmission that causes it to go into limp mode only after I floor the gas pedal and it gos into a lower gear for passing. Also it makes a weird wailing sound. I wish you were here in NC to mentor me!! Any ideas or tips are appreciated!! Subscribed for life!!! Thanks!
Hello Carol, Thanks for watching and subscribing, if this goes into limp mode, I would like to know what codes are present for the transmission. Do you know anyone who can scan the transmission for codes?
Thanks for the vid gary very informative i have a bmw 735i e65 with 6hp26 with a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st what could be the problem gary
thats usually either a solenoid issue or worn bushings. This is full of fluid correct?
Gary Ferraro thanks for reply gary yes its full of oil
Gary after i rebuild, 6hp26 it shifts from 1st to 4th and before 5th engages it neutralizes and shifts back to first and when i but it back to reverse it goes forward
sure the manual valve is caught?
Gary Ferraro thanks gary it have a shift by wire
I have this gearbox on my 2005 x5 bmw 4.8is. When I accelerate hard (in drive) I get a hard knock (whole car shakes) between 3rd and 4th (or 4th and 5th i am not sure) and sometimes it goes into save mode so I have to reset it. BUT if I use manual mode and I shift to a higher gear (with slight gas pedal release before shifting) than it works perfect. So only under hard load otherwise it works fine. Can you tell me what that could be? And how much do you charge for total rebuild like this one on the video? Thank you. PS How many miles should this transmission do after this kind of service?
The problem could be a rear stator bushing. Do you know what codes are present? Where are you located?
well i am in switzerland but i would like to have your opinion so local mechanic is not going to rip me of. actually i was thinking bringing it to the ZF factory since is it close to my house.
on a retail level i get between 3500 and 4000.
ok thank you. kinda steep. 4500 is the new one.
How do you get the gearboxes so clean before you work on them, I'm a home garage environment so a full cleaning booth set up is not feasible
Thats how it was out of the car
Thank you so much for helpful videos
May I now where to get zf transmission service manuals .
Are you looking for ZF6HP26? i would have to check a couple of websites
@@GaryFerraro yes ZF6HP26 land rover
I did a lot of search bit I can't get it
I appreciate you
@@zakaryaal-yafei7336 Looking, only thing i found is a tech guide but this is more for diagnosing then teardown and rebuild. Still looking
@@GaryFerraroI appreciate what you doing for me
Consider your videos is my guide in transmission repair
Hi Gary fantastic teardown video!
Hey heres a question from Australia, my wife's car is an Aussie made 2007 Ford Falcon 4.0litre 6 cyl mated to a ZF 6 speed I think very similar to the Jag one. 170,000 kms
The box seems to perform just fine but here's the question, at idle there is a tapping sound only noticeable from inside the cabin. It occurs after warmup and doesn't seem to be engine rpm dependent.
The local transmission guys did a service last week, replaced fluid, band adjustment, fitted new metal pan and filter, they said they noticed the tapping sound after the service but couldn't hear it under the car, only inside. They said the fluid was brown but no artefacts on the magnets and the box shifts just fine, also there is a large transmission cooler fitted and the heat exchanger has been removed and bypassed.
They could't work out what it was.
Gary have you ever come across this?
Would be great to hear any comments.
Frank Redward
Greetings from New York, Couple of questions, do you hear the noise in all ranges(park, rev, neu, drive) does the noise increase as the engine rpm increases?
Hi Gary!
The tapping sound does not seem to increase when engine RPM increases and it's most noticeable in N & P but yes is apparent in Rev & Drive as well.
Funny thing, if you turn the engine off then restart, it takes a few min before the tapping sound comes back, and as I said it doesn't seem to be heard from under the car.
This is what i would like for you to try, when you hear the noise, with the car running, loosen the engine oil cap, see if the noise changes or goes away. If the noise did not increase with engine rpm, probably nothing in the trans
Thanks Gary, I will try that, although I don't understand the relationship, but to me, a guy like you that can tear these boxes down and knows them so thoroughly certainly can speak with authority!
I will also check engine oil levels in case that's a thing.
My wife has the car, it's 10.23am Friday here and she is at work today so I'll do this later when she's back.
May I ask one other thing.
Another car we have is a 2010 Ford Falcon G6E Turbo 4.0 litre with another ZF 6SP. This car produces a heck of power, @ 300kw on 98 petrol in overboost. Travelled 150,000km
The 6sp in this car is also fine but I've noticed as you brake at raffic lights etc, just as you reach full stop, the box jumps into 1st gear with a slight jar, very slight. If I slow really gently the effect is barely noticeable.
Ever heard of that Gary?
So would you say it has a slight bump on the 2-1 downshift? Its Wednesday here 835pm
hi gary, ive been the ratio monitoring clutch e fault, car goes into to limp mode when im on the highway. i have replaced fluid, filter, mechatronics adapter, and all of the sleeves. still getting the fault code. i was going to do the solenoids but i dont want to change anything i dont need to. please advise.
2009 bmw 335 xi
@@RandyRich01 is the car ok cold? How many miles?
@@GaryFerraro yes ok cold. 123k on dash. Happens in highway when I'm going 55-60 mph.
@@RandyRich01 well, certainly sounds like the rear stator bushing may be the problem
gary are the "E" clutches the same for the zf6hp28? mine are burnt
I would have to check with my supplier, they may be different, I remember sometimes he asks me what the thickness is.
Also do I need to reprogram or reset adaptions after I installed the solenoids? I have a foxwell nt510 (BMW) scanner will it program or reset adaptions. Thanks
Yes you will need to reset the adaptions, i just looked up your code on Shop key pro, it says Pressure control solenoid C Circuit Low
Hello, thank you so much for your videos. I was wondering if you could help me. I recently changed the solenoids, sealing sleeves, and the bridge seal, now the only thing that works is the reverse. I have INPA software and the 4f81 code is coming up. I hear a rattling sound form the transmission sometimes it will catch for a second to go forward, and it will sometimes pull forward in manual mode 2nd and 6th just a little, enough to kinda pull back into the garage but it even stopped doing that.
you hooked up to the manual valve? why did you change the solenoids?
@@GaryFerraro What is the manual valve? When changed the oil the first time It it shifted nice from one to two but #rd gear had a surge so I just want to replace all the solenoids since I was already there. Thanks!!
I was Midway through changing the pan and I went to change the wiring sleeve but I rotated it slightly by rotating the plug's tab too far, having already dropped the clamp holding the sleeve. I was able to get the sleeve out but I can't get the clamp to go back up (even with no sleeve in) I think I got the new sleeve in but I couldn't get the clamp to close either. Did I break the clamp beyond repair? Is it possible to replace it easily?
The clamp will not close if no sleeve is installed. Take the O-rings off the new sleeve and install them on the old sleeve, sometimes I can't get the new sleeves in either
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much for the reply! So does that mean the clamp won't close til it is fully seated?
@@mattlikesrocks correct, until the sleeve is in and seated correctly, the tab will not push up and lock
@@GaryFerraro I know there are some nubs that orient the sleeve, do you know offhand what position they should be at for proper seating?
@@mattlikesrocks There is just one tab or slot the sleeve needs to fit into, look through the sleeve and you will see the slot. You can install the sleeve put a little pressure on it and rotate it till it goes into place and then push it in to close the tab
How is all this possible on a transmission that’s “sealed for life” with only 58k miles?
These solenids have a very high failure rate
Gary Ferraro and that’s what caused all the burning in the clutches?
@@js6752 In this one yes, 4 out of the 7 solenoids were mechanically blocked
Gary Ferraro I see - mine has 74k miles - biggest issue I have is a hard 1-2 shift - do you think that’s the issue or perhaps a software update?
Please can you help? Love the video and very detailed.
I have a noticeable intermittent gear shift problem . During hot weather+long drive+slow moving traffic+incline+harse acceleration, it has slipped twice and its happened intermittently and went into limp mode. Resets when ignition turned off and back on.
Fault codes C & E ratio monitoring have been flagged on the OBD.
Otherwise, it drives normally as though the fault has disappeared, but I know it needs attention sooner rather than later.
Is this a valve body issue or the bushes in the gearbox that need overhauling. The problem hasn't surfaced for weeks. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hello, You probably have an issue with the bushing, this is the number one cause for gear monitoring codes. How many miles?
+Gary Ferraro Thanks. It's got 84k.
I pulled my 2008 rover sport Transmission out, found my OD. Small clutches and steel plates all burnt beyond reuse. Should I replace the solenoids also?
Yes, solenoids are a big problem with this trans, need to replace the rear stator bushing also, after it's done and back in the car, shift adapts will have to be reset
@@GaryFerraro thanks so much! Your help is much appreciated! I hope to be half as good as you one day.
I just received the solenoids kit (9 solenoids total) from www.thectsc.com. I'm planning to take the valve body out tomorrow. I hope it will fix the problem. Also I'm kind of worry when I finish installing the valve body and It wont let me put into gear to add more fluid.
When the valvebody comes down, there is a bridge seal, inbetween the valvebody and pump, make sure that seal is good. Remember, when the pan is down release the lock and pull the sleeve out, before the valvebody comes out
Is the bridge seal looks like 2 squares/rectangle? I bought that seal and sleeve seal so I'm going to replace them both just in case. So I don't have to move and tie the emergency park before I remove the valve body? Any more advise? this is the first time I doing something like this big =). Thank you so much Gary.
Got this gearbox in my bmw 535d, I have a problem about 70% of the time when going through the gears the car jolts forward just before going into 2nd and 3rd gear do you know what could be causing this?
First, have you had the fluid level checked? any codes present for the trans?
Hi thanks for the quick reply the first thing popped in to my head was a gearbox service but the previous owner said it had one last year, the car has done 111000 miles but I will get the oil checked ASAP and I’m not sure if any codes are shown as there isn’t any engine warning lights on or transmission warnings shown?
Greg, How much hp and torque would these handle ??
Well, not to much, i get a lot of these in with blown pumps, in the 650I series
awesome video.
i believe this is the transmission in my BMW 550i, i got transmission malfunction warning when slowing down to a stop. any guesses what that could be and if you think the whole thing will need an overhaul?
thank you for your time.
hope to hear from you.
If you got transmission malfunction, there should be a code present, did you have it scanned to see what code(S) it has?
Gary Ferraro - not as of yet. It did throw the engine light on yesterday so I’ll look into getting it scanned. I’ve been doing extensive research and it seems these transmissions are notorious for act ups with seals etc.
Bonjour et merci,comment je peu vous envoyer une photo du type de boite de vitesse. ( message privé)?Hello and thank you,
how can I send you a picture of the gearbox type. ( private message)?
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
That was a very well done, clear concise video. I learned so much thank you for taking the time. 👍 I'm headed to the valve body video now and after will be digging into mine.
Ok, any questions, just let me know. Thanks for watching, please subscribe.
Well turns out I did end up with a question. When you replace the valve body on the 6hp26. Do you need to have any of the computer components flashed? I keep running into this information on random forums. This specifically would be for if you were to completely replace the valve body for a remanufactured version of the exact same type.
Well, are you installing your original tcm and just swapping valvebodies? If so nothing has to be prgrammed, i would just recommend doing a shift adapt reset
I am just swapping the valve bodies for one that is already been remanufactured with all new solenoids. I wasn't going to mess with the tcm at all until I started to do more reading. I was actually looking forward to redoing the valve body myself but comparatively it just isn't cost effective with my sources for parts. I'm having a hard enough time trying to find a place to work on the car to begin with. What is the shift adapt reset and can I do it myself? And do I need to replace the tcm with the vb? Thanks again for all this info by the way.
You just need to put your tcm on the valvebody, the valvebody your getting will probably come without the tcm. What is the car doing that your changing the valvebody? any codes?
Thank you for a very informative video, I have a 2005 LR3 tdv6 with a 6hp26, it has started giving me transmission error codes on the dash and locking itself in 3rd gear. It was hunting gears for a while. Would this be an overhaul or just in need of a service? Vehicle has 210000 miles on it. Not sure when it had a gearbox service previous owner not forth coming.
Service usually will not work, do you know what codes you have?
@@GaryFerraro The code I get is P0783
@@gravinsteel4534 what is the definition of that code
@@GaryFerraro What the P0783 code means. The P0783 code indicates that there has been a malfunction in the third-to-fourth-gear shift. There are many factors that are used to measure the performance of gear ratios, including throttle position, engine loan, and vehicle and engine speed
@@gravinsteel4534 What do you feel on the shift? slipping or flared shift?
What is the name of your shop?
AAA-1 Transmissions, I'm in New York
@@GaryFerraro do you know if the zf6hp26 from an aston martin is swapable with its successor zf8hp70? Or how to up grade the ZF6HP26 to support more torque?
good video, poor quality
Sorry about that
@@GaryFerraro its a old video, but nice one. 👌🏻👍🏻
Hi Gary I’m about to change an input shaft on a Zf6hp26. Do I need to remove the valve body before I start removing the oil pump and input shaft from the front? From my understanding the pan must be removed as oil filter plumbs into the oil pump. Any info will be appreciated
The Valvebody has to come down because there is a bridge seal inbetween the pump and valvebody, so with this seal in place, pump may not come out. so your changing the E clutch drum?
Gary Ferraro oh ok thanks for the information, no I’m replacing the input shaft as it has snapped in half due to too much power/torque put through the transmission.
Hi Gary I need to change the E clutch piston also I have the part number for the piston but do you know the part number for the piston seal/o-ring thanks
Hi man ,nice job also .One question for you :When we change the oil for this gearbox and we put out all the oil (6liter) then start engine for 5 sec to pull the oil also from convertor ,are we damaging something ?Is this method dangerous ?
Want to be careful there could damage the pump, how are you draining the oil, are you taking off the cooler line?
Gary Ferraro ,the oil is drain our without opening the cooling Lines ,only by removing filter totaly .the main ideea is that we want to pull put as much oil as we can from the 9.5 liters
Yes, just be careful, you actually should be adding as its draining but you cant with the pan down. Only other thing you can do is drop the pan a few times to try to get the oil out. A couple of liters of the old oil really wont hurt if you cant get it out.
Good thinks.alot