In terms of testing the relay without a relay tester... find a relay that's the same in the relay box. I like the horn. Test the horn first, to prove it works. Then put the starter relay in the horn relay's spot. If the horn honks.. your starter relay is good!
What are all you smart guys gonna do when the starter is under the intake? Are you gonna check there first and commit to pulling an intake on a whim? I've been there when i was a parts changer new to the field. Had 4 hours into a vehicle somebody else diagnosed as a starter, and when i turned the key, no crank still. Checked battery voltage with a jumper pack on battery posts in case it was weak and it wasn't. Moved negative clamp on the jumper pack from battery ground to block and car started. The actual fix was the ground strap that was open next to the exhaust. This guy knows his stuff and the channel is great for learning how to do it right the first time. I've learned a lot from them in the past year as I've been learning diag and scoping. Keep up the great videos Royalty Auto!!
@alexandergunaka666 power probe is great for voltage drop tests and I strike the starter too in the hopes of unsticking it if I'm ever in that situation. But my last comment was aimed at the youtube comment experts, not at Royalty Auto who knows what they are doing.
@@Xander-H Got it. My bad I misunderstood. While I’m here what ones are you referring to? You gotta have a couple in mind when you made the comment. I got a few Hondas in my mind.
Think a few commenters are missing the point. Yes there’s quicker ways and more direct ways to get to the answer but the guys always try and put some learning points over too and they try and show their thinking and game plan to diagnose the problem that leads to a confirmed first time fix. Well done fellas. Keep on posting.
Most guys would have done the hammer trick followed by shorting the power and solenoid lugs on back of the starter to see if it turns over. Some 'nice to know' things in the video however.
That was a good video to refresh voltage drop in my memory. Nice green crusty find too. I did the hammer trick with a rubber mallet once and the customer didn’t want a new starter till the next morning when it didn’t start. Tow job was $185 their mistake and they had to wait for an opening in my schedule.
Hi, I like to watch the UA-cam videos on your channel. Lots of good info and clearly explained. You guys are the best! I want to give you 1 tip: don't use a watch with a steel strap, a colleague of mine got stuck once between a positive connection and a chassis. Although 24v, 12v is unfortunately also sufficient, causing his watch to become very hot... and his wrist to burn... An accident can happen in a small corner, as they say in the Netherlands. Have a nice day Greetings Wim from the Netherlands
Great video in showing how to do a voltage drop where you don't have to do the math. I've seen a lot of people teach it the other way. Reading the comments, a lot of people were saying to go to the starter first but in some cases it's not easily accessible and a fuse box usually is, so it just makes sense to jump the load side of the relay to see if the starter engages. If it does, there is no need to go to the starter and now you look at the control side of the relay for the problem.
I am a retired avionics mech. Loved this! Reminded me of T/S aircraft. Sometimes it's not going to be a battery or a relay or a starter. You did an awesome job showing them how to break down the wiring. 👍
For all the numptys on here, you think this man doesn't know to go straight to the starter to do voltage drop test or 12v supply and body ground. He owns a garage, lol 😅😅 this video for for education for people who don't know everything he showed. For those that know this stuff, GREAT move on. It's YOU Tube you're free to watch or not watch lol 😅 get a life! Great content, especially for those that would directly go to the starter then not know what to do next, ignore the haters. One of the genuine guys who like to do it right. Especially the last bit, turning engine over for seizure, had that before. 💪
To be fair, he's presenting this as a diagnostic process, not a tutorial on the entire starting system. It would be much more efficient to start at the starter relay or the starter itself.
@@fascistpedant758 Exactly. This is a case of having too many tools and over complicating things too quick. Start with the basics and move up. Check battery, try to jump the starter, and then pull out wiring diagrams. Cars are still cars I see starters go out more often than the electrical system connected with them.
Great job! Educating those who want to be educated. A requirement of a youtube channel is thick skin. I personally appreciate the efforts that are gone to.
In a situation like this it could also have a bad engine ground !! Easy to check with a test light to ground and touch the engine block, and crank. If it lights up, bad engine ground. Fix the ground and will be good! Test don't guess!!
Ummm..he did that. When he tested the voltage drop of the starter casing. He had his meter from battery negative to the starter casing (ground). If the engine ground was bad, the meter would have shown voltage (not necessarily battery, but something more than 0.01V) as the potential built up on the engine block. Since there was no real potential difference between the casing and the battery negative, the engine ground can be assumed to be good.
Great video. I know you're teaching and explaining everything so you're going the long way. I always start at either the starter relay or the starter, because in my experience it's usually the starter. Thank you :)
Same goes for the fuel pump in the tank. They could have put that fuel motor anyplace other than inside the gas tank. Now they also put the fuel filter on the pump motor in the gas tank. You have to buy everything for just a fuel pump or the fuel filter. The fuel pump and filter should have been inside the frame. So you pay for things you don't need. And gas inside the tank is no fun replacing the fuel pump with a near full tank. I hate doing a fuel pump worse than anything else. Gas fumes and gas any spark you are history. I don't know why the DOT or someone has not sued them for them doing that.
I believe most , if not all , of the " newer " starters use permanent magnets . They will crack if you wail on the starter with a hammer . Some people use a rubber mallet . The shock moves the starter off a bad spot , if that is the problem .
This was a Thursday afternoon. When they broke down we were going into the following Monday on our schedule. That’s what we told them as far as expectation. When we knew we had caught up and had the time we decided to make the video and diagnose it. Did this around 1 that afternoon, ordered a Motorcraft starter around 2:15 after doing the video, and they picked up that night so they had for the weekend. They were thrilled. So that would be the context of back quick. An extra 30 minutes wasn’t the end of the world. 👍
Only thing i think you skipped was checking the voltage on the battery wire going to the starter for 12 volts at the starter. you checked for drop but if no voltage was there wouldn't be a drop. you checked the exciter wire both ways but not the main battery wire unless i missed it
In a real world situation, I would go straight to the starter and check voltage drop and ground, make sure when you try to crank the engine ,you get 12v going to the solenoid before checking fuses and relay. I know the video is for educational purposes but starting from the starter would save you a lot of time, Just my opinion. I work only on Ford trucks. When you have a code for starter performance, 95 percent of the time it will be a bad starter. Good video though!
If there's easy access, then yes, testing directly at the starter is the way to go, especially with a high diagnosis rate of 90%. Otherwise, testing at the relay is the best way to go, it bisects the system before having to potentially lift the vehicle or pull an intake.
No mechanic here, but I´m pretty sure after checking the health of the battery I would´ve gone straight to the starter and worked back from there.. there´s either power there when cranking or not :)
"No mechanic here", you said it yourself. After confirming the battery is good, its logical to go to the relay first. As it sits in the middle of the starting system, testing there will give you direction. Not all starting problems are caused by the startermotor, if one would spend more then 10 minutes in the field actually diagnosing cars, you will discover that many no cranks are NOT startermotor related.
It all depends on access. Going to the starter after confirming the battery is good means potentially lifting the vehicle or removing the intake. In general, it makes better sense to do checks at the relay before going to the starter.
One of the biggest statements you will hear from any automotive teacher is "if a relay clicks, it doesn't mean it's good". I will say that, in my experience, whenever a relay is clicking, it DOES mean the entire CONTROL circuit is good (including the pull-in coil within the relay). Reason being is that it takes a few hundred milliamps to get a good strong click out of a relay, so, when you observe a good strong relay click, either by hearing or feeling, you have already proven at least some wiring integrity all the way through the control circuit from power to ground, even if there are 100 modules involved in enabling the relay.
I don’t know about that zenith. Autel would still win hands down in a comparison I’d say. But it’s good to try a new Chinese scanner every now and again
I like the scroll the screen to the left to turn the page, actually its only half a page so I would slide it twice for each viewing. TRY to swipe the screen from the far right to the far left and see if it will go over a full page?? I believe that when we plug in static, the car is not started, we ought to get a quick visual of all PIDs to see if any show data when it should be nothing, well there is your problem lady, RPM shows 298 when it is actually zero. Your WSS shows a speed, your ECT is -40, stuff like that. I would create a DB of every car that I touch with all this data so I have it for reference with normal parameters on a known good car, this also goes for a cold idle, a hot idle, and some test drives at certain speed and loads, yes, lots of videoing and editing to still photos for the DB, that is MY memory, my laptop. The life of a computer programmer and a car technician COMBO. You also might want to change your metric setting to imperial, kPa to PSI, etc??? Does this scanner have a search box option, you can assume on a Ford that you can search for the KEYWORD IGNITION and all PIDs with ignition will pop up on the screen without scrolling almost to the end to find something that is not in alphabetical order, that is a problem with this tool, not alpha listed PIDs. If no SEARCH feature, then that is another problem with this tool. If you are testing exactly from the lead battery post ok, some folks call the entire area there THE POST, if you are testing from the battery terminal and the voltage drops to 6V, then you need to verify that the voltage drops from the post as the terminal could have a VD. You did use the word POST so we must assume the exact battery post, not the outer terminal. This test is good no matter what with next to no drop, no worries. The relay audible click is not on the control side, but does verify that the control side is working, the click IS ON the load side switch but this does not mean that the power is there or that the relay switch will pass the power or that the real problem may be downline if the relay is passing power. i have no real problem with your teaching method BUT in the electronics world, we split the system in half, that could have been at the relay or at the starter or at one of the 2 connectors on the diagram, depending on where is the low-hanging fruit. You started at the battery, to fuse, to relay with a long drawn out set of tests, and now looking to get at the starter, with your remark that others would have gone straight to the starter and if that was easier than finding the 2 connectors, they are correct. While you are teaching, you ought to teach the best and quickest method in case those troops are on flat rate. If you find the starter is bad, then DONE, then carry on with your class to prove the other points in the circuit. Flat rate or not, I want to fix as many cars today as I can for the sake of my family and my garage toys future purchases to make me even faster and earn both of us more paper and from what I see on thousands of videos here on YT, the parking lots are way too full due to the lack of good mechanics, which I presume you are trying to help with their education.
Did you replace the the starter relay after you replaced the starter? Seeing the arc you were drawing with the jumper, I would suspect the relay contacts maybe a little burned. Take care!
Its good to know how to use the process of elimination to know exactly what you need to do before just throwing a starter in sometimes the obvious is not the whole problem
These are all things that I would check for sure, but I think I would’ve started with. Do I have cranking power in the battery, then lift it and see if the solenoid wire lights off under Start because it does light off and doesn’t work you don’t have to do anything else it’s a bad starter. But I enjoyed the video anyways.
Never hammer on a Permanent Magnet motor, as you can destroy the magnets easily. That procedure is valid only for an electromagnet motor (has field coil windings). Jumper the battery terminal to the "S" ( or exciter) terminals. If no click in the solenoid, and motor does not turn do a voltage drop test between the Battery post and the lead from solenoid to the motor. If over 400 mV (0.400v) the solenoid is faulty. If voltage is within specs (400mV max) then the motor is at fault.
just jump the starter relay and see if the vehicles cranks over... if it cranks you know its a control side issue, if it doesn't then you know its a power side issue. easiest way to immediately rule out one side of the starter circuit.
As someone who owns a workshop and does this daily I can tell you after many years we basically don't even notice it and/or just tune it out. However watching a video and listening to it as an outside it did drive me crazy and I know how my customers feel when they are standing beside me while I'm looking at their car listening now haha
Is All that extra stuff something you would normally do or it just for the sake of content to make a video? So much simpler to go to starter in the first place
Are you sure you should be doing car video instead of fitness, videos. I am one of the guys who would go to the starter first and then i would be lost. Good work, Thank you.
In terms of testing the relay without a relay tester... find a relay that's the same in the relay box. I like the horn. Test the horn first, to prove it works. Then put the starter relay in the horn relay's spot. If the horn honks.. your starter relay is good!
What are all you smart guys gonna do when the starter is under the intake? Are you gonna check there first and commit to pulling an intake on a whim? I've been there when i was a parts changer new to the field. Had 4 hours into a vehicle somebody else diagnosed as a starter, and when i turned the key, no crank still. Checked battery voltage with a jumper pack on battery posts in case it was weak and it wasn't. Moved negative clamp on the jumper pack from battery ground to block and car started. The actual fix was the ground strap that was open next to the exhaust.
This guy knows his stuff and the channel is great for learning how to do it right the first time. I've learned a lot from them in the past year as I've been learning diag and scoping. Keep up the great videos Royalty Auto!!
moronnn
He said he didn’t know every car. I’m under the car with a power probe and a long skinny screwdriver.
@alexandergunaka666 power probe is great for voltage drop tests and I strike the starter too in the hopes of unsticking it if I'm ever in that situation. But my last comment was aimed at the youtube comment experts, not at Royalty Auto who knows what they are doing.
@@Xander-H Got it. My bad I misunderstood. While I’m here what ones are you referring to? You gotta have a couple in mind when you made the comment. I got a few Hondas in my mind.
@@Xander-H and I meant to try and jump the stater not wack it.
Tap the solenoid not the starter to move the contact inside would work better . Thank for the video
Think a few commenters are missing the point. Yes there’s quicker ways and more direct ways to get to the answer but the guys always try and put some learning points over too and they try and show their thinking and game plan to diagnose the problem that leads to a confirmed first time fix. Well done fellas. Keep on posting.
Most guys would have done the hammer trick followed by shorting the power and solenoid lugs on back of the starter to see if it turns over. Some 'nice to know' things in the video however.
That was a good video to refresh voltage drop in my memory. Nice green crusty find too. I did the hammer trick with a rubber mallet once and the customer didn’t want a new starter till the next morning when it didn’t start. Tow job was $185 their mistake and they had to wait for an opening in my schedule.
Hi, I like to watch the UA-cam videos on your channel. Lots of good info and clearly explained. You guys are the best! I want to give you 1 tip: don't use a watch with a steel strap, a colleague of mine got stuck once between a positive connection and a chassis. Although 24v, 12v is unfortunately also sufficient, causing his watch to become very hot... and his wrist to burn... An accident can happen in a small corner, as they say in the Netherlands. Have a nice day Greetings Wim from the Netherlands
Sir i will say i think you are one of the best tech an macanic i have ever seen. think you so much for your videos. I have learn so much
Great video in showing how to do a voltage drop where you don't have to do the math. I've seen a lot of people teach it the other way.
Reading the comments, a lot of people were saying to go to the starter first but in some cases it's not easily accessible and a fuse box usually is, so it just makes sense to jump the load side of the relay to see if the starter engages. If it does, there is no need to go to the starter and now you look at the control side of the relay for the problem.
I am a retired avionics mech. Loved this! Reminded me of T/S aircraft. Sometimes it's not going to be a battery or a relay or a starter. You did an awesome job showing them how to break down the wiring. 👍
For all the numptys on here, you think this man doesn't know to go straight to the starter to do voltage drop test or 12v supply and body ground. He owns a garage, lol 😅😅 this video for for education for people who don't know everything he showed.
For those that know this stuff, GREAT move on. It's YOU Tube you're free to watch or not watch lol 😅 get a life! Great content, especially for those that would directly go to the starter then not know what to do next, ignore the haters. One of the genuine guys who like to do it right. Especially the last bit, turning engine over for seizure, had that before. 💪
Can't beat learning in a real world situation. Well done!
To be fair, he's presenting this as a diagnostic process, not a tutorial on the entire starting system. It would be much more efficient to start at the starter relay or the starter itself.
@@fascistpedant758 Exactly. This is a case of having too many tools and over complicating things too quick. Start with the basics and move up. Check battery, try to jump the starter, and then pull out wiring diagrams. Cars are still cars I see starters go out more often than the electrical system connected with them.
Yes indeed, he is absolutely right.
With a seized engine you can't even here a click, nothing.
This man is a very professional mechanic
Videos like this are fantastic for someone like me, who is thinking of doing Ford specialty stuff out of his own shop.
I thought I was back Vegas with that door ring! Lol. Dang slots still taking my money! Lol
Great job! Educating those who want to be educated.
A requirement of a youtube channel is thick skin.
I personally appreciate the efforts that are gone to.
In a situation like this it could also have a bad engine ground !! Easy to check with a test light to ground and touch the engine block, and crank. If it lights up, bad engine ground. Fix the ground and will be good! Test don't guess!!
Ummm..he did that. When he tested the voltage drop of the starter casing. He had his meter from battery negative to the starter casing (ground). If the engine ground was bad, the meter would have shown voltage (not necessarily battery, but something more than 0.01V) as the potential built up on the engine block. Since there was no real potential difference between the casing and the battery negative, the engine ground can be assumed to be good.
Love the video the level of education you guys bring is amazing.
Yer great for the profession Sherwood 👍
Great video. I know you're teaching and explaining everything so you're going the long way. I always start at either the starter relay or the starter, because in my experience it's usually the starter. Thank you :)
Good job, Sherwood. Thanks for putting up with my comments.
3:15 If you know basic principles and can think in terms of systems, you don't need to know every car.
Good job racking up the van for a basketball player.😮At least we can see your nice tattoo.
Very thorough video. Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
Nice yellow toolbox.❤️
31:25 How can you test for voltage drop when your meter is already at zero?
Love all the Acknowledge u have 👍👍🔥🔥🔥
We used to have a joke at the dealership where anytime anything was wrong with a vehicle, someone would ask "did you try tapping the starter!?" Lol.
Same goes for the fuel pump in the tank. They could have put that fuel motor anyplace other than inside the gas tank. Now they also put the fuel filter on the pump motor in the gas tank. You have to buy everything for just a fuel pump or the fuel filter. The fuel pump and filter should have been inside the frame. So you pay for things you don't need. And gas inside the tank is no fun replacing the fuel pump with a near full tank. I hate doing a fuel pump worse than anything else. Gas fumes and gas any spark you are history. I don't know why the DOT or someone has not sued them for them doing that.
Very simple and helpful ways to explain nicely done appreciate it
I believe most , if not all , of the " newer " starters use permanent magnets . They will crack if you wail on the starter with a hammer . Some people use a rubber mallet . The shock moves the starter off a bad spot , if that is the problem .
the thump shakes loose a stuck contactor - it does not move the armature
Customer: I need to get this vehicle back on the road ASAP.
Mechanic: Perfect time to make a video!
This was a Thursday afternoon. When they broke down we were going into the following Monday on our schedule. That’s what we told them as far as expectation. When we knew we had caught up and had the time we decided to make the video and diagnose it. Did this around 1 that afternoon, ordered a Motorcraft starter around 2:15 after doing the video, and they picked up that night so they had for the weekend. They were thrilled. So that would be the context of back quick. An extra 30 minutes wasn’t the end of the world. 👍
@theroyaltyautoservice also over 90,000 people just saw this company's logo so free marketing for them
@@theroyaltyautoservice lol Just flickin ya shit
Are you a delivery driver? Sounds like you have experience in that field?
@@Michael-yi4mc Yes haha
Very interesting! I learned alot. Thanks for doing these vids.
I’m old school. I would only scan the OBD if a check engine light is on. Otherwise, I would just check the starter circuit.
Very good instructional video! THANK YOU! Please keep them coming……
I think my first test after the neutral check would be the starter, then work my way back if I needed.
Yep! Keep it simple with the basics.
I love watching your videos 💯... Keep up the good work 🤜💥🤛
Only thing i think you skipped was checking the voltage on the battery wire going to the starter for 12 volts at the starter. you checked for drop but if no voltage was there wouldn't be a drop. you checked the exciter wire both ways but not the main battery wire unless i missed it
Thanks Sherwood!
I liked it .
Very helpful ! Interesting content / case ! Learning lots from you sir ! Thanks . 👊🏼 🔥
In a real world situation, I would go straight to the starter and check voltage drop and ground, make sure when you try to crank the engine ,you get 12v going to the solenoid before checking fuses and relay. I know the video is for educational purposes but starting from the starter would save you a lot of time, Just my opinion.
I work only on Ford trucks. When you have a code for starter performance, 95 percent of the time it will be a bad starter.
Good video though!
If there's easy access, then yes, testing directly at the starter is the way to go, especially with a high diagnosis rate of 90%. Otherwise, testing at the relay is the best way to go, it bisects the system before having to potentially lift the vehicle or pull an intake.
Just like old fords check relay silonod on fender wall even tapping on it
Tapping on starter worked on my 1973 nova till I got money for a new one
No mechanic here, but I´m pretty sure after checking the health of the battery I would´ve gone straight to the starter and worked back from there.. there´s either power there when cranking or not :)
Exactly what I do with no crank no start scenarios lol
"No mechanic here", you said it yourself. After confirming the battery is good, its logical to go to the relay first. As it sits in the middle of the starting system, testing there will give you direction. Not all starting problems are caused by the startermotor, if one would spend more then 10 minutes in the field actually diagnosing cars, you will discover that many no cranks are NOT startermotor related.
It all depends on access. Going to the starter after confirming the battery is good means potentially lifting the vehicle or removing the intake. In general, it makes better sense to do checks at the relay before going to the starter.
I bet that voltage on the control side negative of the relay you were seeing was bias voltage from the computer
Yes, most computers will send a bias voltage thru a resistor on sensor reference grounds and relay ground control circuits for diagnostic purposes
One of the biggest statements you will hear from any automotive teacher is "if a relay clicks, it doesn't mean it's good". I will say that, in my experience, whenever a relay is clicking, it DOES mean the entire CONTROL circuit is good (including the pull-in coil within the relay). Reason being is that it takes a few hundred milliamps to get a good strong click out of a relay, so, when you observe a good strong relay click, either by hearing or feeling, you have already proven at least some wiring integrity all the way through the control circuit from power to ground, even if there are 100 modules involved in enabling the relay.
Hopefully, the shop has more than one van.
I don’t know about that zenith. Autel would still win hands down in a comparison I’d say. But it’s good to try a new Chinese scanner every now and again
I like the scroll the screen to the left to turn the page, actually its only half a page so I would slide it twice for each viewing. TRY to swipe the screen from the far right to the far left and see if it will go over a full page?? I believe that when we plug in static, the car is not started, we ought to get a quick visual of all PIDs to see if any show data when it should be nothing, well there is your problem lady, RPM shows 298 when it is actually zero. Your WSS shows a speed, your ECT is -40, stuff like that. I would create a DB of every car that I touch with all this data so I have it for reference with normal parameters on a known good car, this also goes for a cold idle, a hot idle, and some test drives at certain speed and loads, yes, lots of videoing and editing to still photos for the DB, that is MY memory, my laptop. The life of a computer programmer and a car technician COMBO. You also might want to change your metric setting to imperial, kPa to PSI, etc???
Does this scanner have a search box option, you can assume on a Ford that you can search for the KEYWORD IGNITION and all PIDs with ignition will pop up on the screen without scrolling almost to the end to find something that is not in alphabetical order, that is a problem with this tool, not alpha listed PIDs. If no SEARCH feature, then that is another problem with this tool.
If you are testing exactly from the lead battery post ok, some folks call the entire area there THE POST, if you are testing from the battery terminal and the voltage drops to 6V, then you need to verify that the voltage drops from the post as the terminal could have a VD. You did use the word POST so we must assume the exact battery post, not the outer terminal. This test is good no matter what with next to no drop, no worries.
The relay audible click is not on the control side, but does verify that the control side is working, the click IS ON the load side switch but this does not mean that the power is there or that the relay switch will pass the power or that the real problem may be downline if the relay is passing power. i have no real problem with your teaching method BUT in the electronics world, we split the system in half, that could have been at the relay or at the starter or at one of the 2 connectors on the diagram, depending on where is the low-hanging fruit. You started at the battery, to fuse, to relay with a long drawn out set of tests, and now looking to get at the starter, with your remark that others would have gone straight to the starter and if that was easier than finding the 2 connectors, they are correct. While you are teaching, you ought to teach the best and quickest method in case those troops are on flat rate. If you find the starter is bad, then DONE, then carry on with your class to prove the other points in the circuit. Flat rate or not, I want to fix as many cars today as I can for the sake of my family and my garage toys future purchases to make me even faster and earn both of us more paper and from what I see on thousands of videos here on YT, the parking lots are way too full due to the lack of good mechanics, which I presume you are trying to help with their education.
spot on Sherwood!!!!!!!
Did you replace the the starter relay after you replaced the starter? Seeing the arc you were drawing with the jumper, I would suspect the relay contacts maybe a little burned. Take care!
Great video!
Its good to know how to use the process of elimination to know exactly what you need to do before just throwing a starter in sometimes the obvious is not the whole problem
great content as usual
These are all things that I would check for sure, but I think I would’ve started with. Do I have cranking power in the battery, then lift it and see if the solenoid wire lights off under Start because it does light off and doesn’t work you don’t have to do anything else it’s a bad starter. But I enjoyed the video anyways.
Not to Self: Whoever made that door chime needs to be stopped
Driver door was open. And key on to scan. That why ding Maybe close door shoot video thru window
Intermittent crank when it would crank voltage drop across the solonoid in millivolts when it wouldnt crank voltage drop around 2 volts
thanks anyway , your doing just fine, good job
man 32min to find out it was a starter :)
Maybe you’re supposed to print out the wiring diagram. That way it wouldn’t jump around while explaining the circuit.
Never hammer on a Permanent Magnet motor, as you can destroy the magnets easily. That procedure is valid only for an electromagnet motor (has field coil windings).
Jumper the battery terminal to the "S" ( or exciter) terminals. If no click in the solenoid, and motor does not turn do a voltage drop test between the Battery post and the lead from solenoid to the motor. If over 400 mV (0.400v) the solenoid is faulty. If voltage is within specs (400mV max) then the motor is at fault.
What kind of numbers would be considered bad on the voltage drop testing.
Love your videos
Wow I w go to check battery conn first then starter
Good job 👍
Always learn something new.
Just found the best sleeping tablet in the world!!😮. Auto electrics 😅
I use my Power Probe more all the time for stuff like this.
Hey Ford, do you think we could have a quiet service mode so we don't have to hear that silly chime all the time?
good job
Why didn’t you use your U activate tool you have.???
just jump the starter relay and see if the vehicles cranks over... if it cranks you know its a control side issue, if it doesn't then you know its a power side issue. easiest way to immediately rule out one side of the starter circuit.
Proper diag thanks!
I use a simple Fluke multimeter to check the relay. Who needs a scanner for such a simple circuit?
I love my Apple tablet.
It’s ok to close the door and roll down the window in your video
Get use to beeping. This world is filled with electronic noise. Especially the electric cars making that space ship sound.
Ugh!! Sherwood 3 is really getting raked over the “door chime coals” You poor guy. Cut the kid some slack ya crybaby Karens. 😂
Careful with the low hanging fruit. It always bumps my head while walking under the tree.
Old school, measure twice cut once
Great video, thanks!
You guys could’ve tripped the door, how does that not drive you crazy.
As someone who owns a workshop and does this daily I can tell you after many years we basically don't even notice it and/or just tune it out. However watching a video and listening to it as an outside it did drive me crazy and I know how my customers feel when they are standing beside me while I'm looking at their car listening now haha
Ive worked on so many fords i hear the door chime in my sleep haha
First step is to get it on a lift and bang the starter while your cameraman tries to start it!
Lin overlay for the win?
Or bad grille shutters cuz for some reason that is a thing for Ford's!
Is All that extra stuff something you would normally do or it just for the sake of content to make a video? So much simpler to go to starter in the first place
Close the door latch with a screwdriver and you can silence the annoying dinger binger
If you want it bad, that’s the way you will get it
Grasias
You have a U activate also 😉
It's at the other shop though
@@FiresideCC 👍🏻
Are you sure you should be doing car video instead of fitness, videos. I am one of the guys who would go to the starter first and then i would be lost. Good work, Thank you.
but that ac part two was never record if you never gonna shoot that 2nd part why bother the 1st part regardless?
I know what’s wrong with it, ain’t got no gas in it! Lol.
You need a five thousand dollar scanner to diagnose a license plate bulb? Another reason why I’m keeping my 2000 Toyota. Keep it simple!
Show people how to tap on gas tank with anything handy when a fuel pump acts up til you can repair it with a new fuel pump
90+k getting closer
there is a reason that it is called diagnosis
Does the ponytail ever diminish your ability to diagnose a car issue.
Rule number one. Never borrow tools. Just saying.
Ford needs to come up with a different chime. It's been the same one since the dinosaurs.
So?
annoying door ajar noise
Yep we dropped the ball on that one man. 😢Sorry. We won’t make the same mistake again.
@@theroyaltyautoservice👍Welcome to the world of electronic sounds.
Look at all the bunch of Karen. Crying about a door😂😂😂😂🤡🤡🤦♂️
Man you got to get some better background music
Dude by the time you fix that van, they will be out of business!🤷🤦♂️🤭
Get forscan
And the mechanic is going to make a video 😂