Well its been a few years now whats the overall feed back and any problems still holding up and tips or tricks secrets / use a hole cutter to cut out the plugs
These shaves are a really cool touch. I shaved one for my 1970 c20/6.0 build and it turned out amazing. I have it in sealer, ready for base/clear. Waiting on accessories to get here to match the color on those.
I kept canister purge using a late model truck canister, but had EVAP testing deleted. With the purge valve on top, I moved mine to the billet EGR port, machined it to bolt in with the o ring seal. This keeps it equal to all cylinders but allows for burning the fuel vapors I paid for. This provides the hydrocarbon rich air a place to go when refueling, fuel slosh and temperature change of the fuel. If done correctly, those having the pump kick off during filling may see that problem disappear. Better MPG as the PCM adjusts for the extra fuel while at speed, reducing injector ON time. Nice job. ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
...The make aluminum block offs for all that. They even make a block off for the fuel pressure regulator so you keep the stock rails with an external adjustable regulator.
@@phillipstein9099 Yes they do. I don't need or have EGR, just canister purge. The PCM inputs signals show temp, off idle the it uses PWM to clean the canister. With a roll over valve, air passes thru the tank valve and non-permeable hose to the purge to burn the fuel I paid for and no gas smell in the garage. The difference is from factory is testing the parts of all the fuel related items or EVAP. As far as the regulator, a high pressure fuel pump will wear it out prematurely. 52-54 PSI is normal working pressure for the iron block 4.3L - 5.3L. If you are racing, get E85 injectors, de-capped them or buy 8 new injectors with higher rating, tune the PCM fuel mapping. I won't be racing.
I just saw this for the first time, I'm now 7-8 videos deep into my research. One thing nobody is discussing - what's the durability? One person said he's gone 2000 miles (which is nothing) another guy said he's running 10 lb of boost but that doesn't mean he ran it for any length of time. I'd be doing this on a test manifold before my daily driver... Any testimonials?
I have driven the car for a year now and put about 6,400 miles on it. The intake has had NO problems at all. Its not boosted yet, but for a daily driver it should be just fine. The plastic used to patch the holes is the same material used for the rest of the intake. I also layer fiberglass onto it which would add extra strength. If anything, this should be stronger than the original shape. If your going to be adding 25lbs of boost to a plasic intake manifold you should expect a crack eventually. Thats why there is other materials made for boosted intake applications
@@208autostate6 thanks for the reply, the manifold looks terrible so I fully support the mods. I'm thinking of plastic welding 1, applying a plastic epoxy 2 and adding some variety of fiberglass or metal screen before the epoxy hardens 3 to fully reinforce the manifold. After putting in all the time & energy it's a job I only want to do once.
@@208autostate6 you did good work man, but all that shits gonna end up peeling off from heat/weather and plastic cracks lol just get a metal one lol certain parts shouldnt be plastic and intake is one lol. Besides i cant think but this is restricting airflow somehow.
Looks good and unlike most got ADD material to the top instead of just sanding and shaving it all off. Be neat to see just how strong these are up against say 15 pounds of boost long term.
I did move the MAP sensor. I did not epoxy it. I drilled a hole the correct diameter for the sensor and installed it in the rear. Seal and all. Never had it leak and it reads correctly. Havent had any issue with it this way.
If you mean the black sensor with the red cap? That's the EVAP PURGE SOLENOID, I deleted the EGR, so I deleted that sensor with the red cap as well at a later date.
Thanks buddy! So yes, it's only for looks. They have aftermarket intakes that offer better performance and looks, but to keep the cost down and attempt something new i went with this option.
@Carl Beane Yes, this is a clean looking intake from the common truck Vortec engine. If money was not an issue there are a lot of options out there. Although the air plenum inside the trucks intake could limit RPM’s over 5,290, it produces a lot of torque that comes in at low speed and climbs from there. This is exactly want I want. I am never going to the racetrack as I build engines, differentials and both automatic & manuals for racing, to only watch something else break or fail, then worse yet wreck them. Not going to do that! ASE Master Tech since 1978 Retired
I see you're using a DBC throttle body? How are you going to attach the throttle and cruise control cables? The studs that would have held the cable bracket are gone now.
I havent ran the engine it's on for more than 10 mins total so I cant vouch for integrity yet, but I used a 1/4" NPT threat nipple for vacuum ports and I drilled holes in the back of the intake and threaded the NPT fittings in. No leaks on those so they are holding perfect
Truck intakes make decent power anyway. In some cases better power than the car intakes. But for a budget build for us broke ppl it makes a huge difference
Good Job!
Well its been a few years now whats the overall feed back and any problems still holding up and tips or tricks secrets / use a hole cutter to cut out the plugs
These shaves are a really cool touch. I shaved one for my 1970 c20/6.0 build and it turned out amazing. I have it in sealer, ready for base/clear. Waiting on accessories to get here to match the color on those.
Thanks for showing how you relocated the ports to the back of the manifold much appreciated… 🙄 🙄 🙄
I kept canister purge using a late model truck canister, but had EVAP testing deleted. With the purge valve on top, I moved mine to the billet EGR port, machined it to bolt in with the o ring seal. This keeps it equal to all cylinders but allows for burning the fuel vapors I paid for. This provides the hydrocarbon rich air a place to go when refueling, fuel slosh and temperature change of the fuel. If done correctly, those having the pump kick off during filling may see that problem disappear. Better MPG as the PCM adjusts for the extra fuel while at speed, reducing injector ON time. Nice job.
ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
...The make aluminum block offs for all that. They even make a block off for the fuel pressure regulator so you keep the stock rails with an external adjustable regulator.
@@phillipstein9099 Yes they do. I don't need or have EGR, just canister purge. The PCM inputs signals show temp, off idle the it uses PWM to clean the canister. With a roll over valve, air passes thru the tank valve and non-permeable hose to the purge to burn the fuel I paid for and no gas smell in the garage. The difference is from factory is testing the parts of all the fuel related items or EVAP. As far as the regulator, a high pressure fuel pump will wear it out prematurely. 52-54 PSI is normal working pressure for the iron block 4.3L - 5.3L. If you are racing, get E85 injectors, de-capped them or buy 8 new injectors with higher rating, tune the PCM fuel mapping. I won't be racing.
why did you move the ports/connections? do you have to do that or just preference..
@@bicyclecrunch just preference
@@208autostate6 thx I am doing this to a 4.8 going into an 89 bird and looking for the least bit of turbulence.
Do you need to Tune you car after installing this intake?
It look like after market look good
Throttle cable?
I just saw this for the first time, I'm now 7-8 videos deep into my research. One thing nobody is discussing - what's the durability? One person said he's gone 2000 miles (which is nothing) another guy said he's running 10 lb of boost but that doesn't mean he ran it for any length of time. I'd be doing this on a test manifold before my daily driver...
Any testimonials?
I have driven the car for a year now and put about 6,400 miles on it. The intake has had NO problems at all. Its not boosted yet, but for a daily driver it should be just fine. The plastic used to patch the holes is the same material used for the rest of the intake. I also layer fiberglass onto it which would add extra strength. If anything, this should be stronger than the original shape. If your going to be adding 25lbs of boost to a plasic intake manifold you should expect a crack eventually. Thats why there is other materials made for boosted intake applications
@@208autostate6 thanks for the reply, the manifold looks terrible so I fully support the mods. I'm thinking of plastic welding 1, applying a plastic epoxy 2 and adding some variety of fiberglass or metal screen before the epoxy hardens 3 to fully reinforce the manifold. After putting in all the time & energy it's a job I only want to do once.
@@208autostate6 how about just buy an intake that's metal lol
@@billybobbob3003 what skill set can you learn by buying bolt on parts?
@@208autostate6 you did good work man, but all that shits gonna end up peeling off from heat/weather and plastic cracks lol just get a metal one lol certain parts shouldnt be plastic and intake is one lol. Besides i cant think but this is restricting airflow somehow.
Looks good and unlike most got ADD material to the top instead of just sanding and shaving it all off. Be neat to see just how strong these are up against say 15 pounds of boost long term.
Nice job 👍 what Color paint did you use ? Looks very close to Aluminum
Did you just cut off the map sensor bung, and epoxy it in a hole in the back?
I did move the MAP sensor. I did not epoxy it. I drilled a hole the correct diameter for the sensor and installed it in the rear. Seal and all. Never had it leak and it reads correctly. Havent had any issue with it this way.
do u think it will fit under a 71 camaro with regular hood hight
Floppy disc haven't heard that since about 1990. Lol
Got the idea though huh? Lol
Is this all engine or on a boosted engine
Can it hold boost basically?
Looks great
For now its N/A. It will be boosted though. So hopefully it does hold, thanks!
youre not even going to give credit to who showed you the method
Im sure my uncle doesnt mind? Lol
Amazing job
How exactly did you relocate the pvc
I added a vacuum port to the back of the intake and attached PCV hose there
Looks good ..... But that work area!
Did this and the alternator end up clearing the hood?
Honestly I am not sure, I have yet to put the hood back on. I will let you know for sure once I do though
The hood closed without any problems
Looks good.
What’s the connector on top
On the top? Which connector?
If you mean the black sensor with the red cap? That's the EVAP PURGE SOLENOID, I deleted the EGR, so I deleted that sensor with the red cap as well at a later date.
TotallyStock 925 no the one in back? Intake pressure sensor?
@@americanman911 yes, the one on the back is the pressure sensor
WTF is a zipper wheel? Lol
Why are people doing this? Just for looks?
Correct, it does nothing except change the look. Personally i didnt like the abnoxious ribbed stock intake. No performance gains from it.
@@208autostate6 oh ok. Didn't know if it was an Intake swap and was for fitment, or just for a cleaner look.
@@208autostate6 nice job too ☺️
Thanks buddy! So yes, it's only for looks. They have aftermarket intakes that offer better performance and looks, but to keep the cost down and attempt something new i went with this option.
@Carl Beane Yes, this is a clean looking intake from the common truck Vortec engine. If money was not an issue there are a lot of options out there. Although the air plenum inside the trucks intake could limit RPM’s over 5,290, it produces a lot of torque that comes in at low speed and climbs from there. This is exactly want I want. I am never going to the racetrack as I build engines, differentials and both automatic & manuals for racing, to only watch something else break or fail, then worse yet wreck them.
Not going to do that!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 Retired
Great job how are you going to install the bracket for the throttle cables?
Good eye, I remedied that situation with a bracket i made.
I see you're using a DBC throttle body? How are you going to attach the throttle and cruise control cables? The studs that would have held the cable bracket are gone now.
Good eye, watch a couple more videos to see how I remedied that 👍
@@208autostate6 will do. I'm shaving mine now so that's how i noticed it. Thanks again. Looks great
how long did it take?
It took me about 10 hours to complete
how is it holding up and also what did you use to relocate vacuum ports?
I havent ran the engine it's on for more than 10 mins total so I cant vouch for integrity yet, but I used a 1/4" NPT threat nipple for vacuum ports and I drilled holes in the back of the intake and threaded the NPT fittings in. No leaks on those so they are holding perfect
Did you sand the entire intake before paint?
Correct i did
good job
Thanks buddy 👍
This is a lot of work for zero hp ..cool video tho
Truck intakes make decent power anyway. In some cases better power than the car intakes. But for a budget build for us broke ppl it makes a huge difference
@@bradonoliver2973 I know they do but lots of work so nothing really ..
@@gustavomendoza6028 got nothing but time.
@@bradonoliver2973 make more funds in that time n you’ll be able to run a better manifold
Or just use the truck shit and smoke yo ass if your even building anything 🤣