Great tip Wes. I can’t imagine having to turn on my dust collection every time I use my saw. Mine is plugged into a switch that turns on my dust collection when I turn on the saw. And it stays on for 7 seconds after I turn the saw off. Its awesome. It’s called a Senctrl vacuum switch.
Hi...I am familiar with this switch. When I make videos I don't want the dust collector on all the time. Thanks for sharing...I appreciate your comment. Wes
Thanks for this. It’s funny. I’ve used this method plenty of times to get straight boards to bend and flex as needed. I’ve never considered using it to straighten/flatten boards that are cupped.
It kills me to make this kind of comment. I like you and your talent and your presentation. I'm just concerned about your fingers. It's big box store wood, so what if theres a low spot in it? Or just a blow out during the pass? I know video can be misleading, but it looks like your two handed push through has your fingers on the fence side less than two inches from the blade? My approach might be a 2 x 12 sacrificial push stick with a sacrificial heel? I intend no offense. In fact, I'm kind of curious about your general approach on this subject.
@@WoodworkingWithWes I have never been a video content creator. I just photos on my Facebook page. I don't understand video, but have often heard about the video angles. I'm not sure if you have a video on your approach to safety, but I find the topic interesting. I noticed some commenters are not very tolerant or kind in their comments. I'm not one of those. I sometimes have the opportunity (one on one) to help others see a safer approach to the same cut. I could certainly learn to improve my own approach from a good video. Thank you.
WoW! Great idea! and so simple! I guess you could glue thin strips back into the slots if you wanted to maybe I`m thinking out loud. Excellent video Wes!
Could you fill the cuts with PVA glue and hold the piece flat while it dries? That would maintain the “flatness” and also greatly increase the strength.
Its why I only use rough sawn from a saw mill and mill it myself, my solution would be a jointer lol, but I know can't always do that and keep the proper width, the real problem is the woods are not dry and/or acclimated to your shop, big box store wood is never dry enough and that's the problem imo...great lill trick Wes!
Yes. I shuddered every time his hand crossed over that spinning blade. Maybe just the angle of the video but it really unnerved me. Thank you, Teacher Wes, for the tip. 🙏🏽✌🏽
That's an excellent tip. If you wanted to have the ends of your boards showing - say these boards will be used as drawer fronts - would non-through kerfs, starting and stopping just before the ends of the boards provide enough stress relief to work?
This is perfect. I wish there was a way I could show you the assembly table I’m working on. The table “sub” top is 1’ 7” x 5’ 7” pine. It’s cupped. It’s going on top of an airtight cabinet system I’m building. I already have to dado width wise on the bottom for the cabinet sides and center panels and the actual top will be white oak that I’m attaching to the top of this same board with galvanized pipe nipples and floor flanges that I’m repurposing. I’ll have 3 cabinets so that’s 4 dados on the bottom of this board. If I use this technique, the kerf cuts will run perpendicular do the dados. I know you probably didn’t intend on showing this for load bearing builds but do you have any of that Wes wisdom on this or help me brainstorm. Btw! It’ll be outside on a large patio, penetrating stained, spar urethaned w/ UV blockers and tinted semi transparent with beige to help keep the cabinets cool in the Louisiana heat and I’ll have flashing between metal and wood. Help! Please and TY! 😊
I typically refer questions this complex to our subscription platform www.woodworkingwithwes.com. That way I can answer by way of a personalized video. In order to sufficiently help you that is the only way I can break this down. Thanks, Wes
Would it be an alternative if you cut the board in half, run both cut edges through the jointer and then glued the two halves together. If the new pieces are still cupped before the glue up then cut them in half again, joint and glue for a new flat board. Then both sides can be used.
Because the cuts would be glued to mating surfaces the joints are practically invisible, not unlike joining book matched pieces. I have done several furniture tops where only a trained eye could find the glue joints.
Dangerous technique. Worse, though, is that this is totally unnecessary. The reason a board cups is uneven moisture absorption. You brought the boards into a new environment and stacked them up. Notice how it only happened to the TOP one? If you flip the board, you'll find the cupping tends to alleviate, even eliminate, itself. The best fix is to stand the boards on edge with gaps between them and allow them to acclimate to their new environment. Even with this board, you can get it back flat with this technique. I've done this for 50 years and it has never failed. I've even experimented with wood left in a hot sun and tracked the resulting cupping. The boards will return to their original state if you handle them properly. Also, a friend bought, milled to TnG and installed some hickory 1x6 as a floor, but had no subfloor in his old house. He finished the tops and they were gorgeous but did not seal the back sides. I warned him they'd be cupped within a few months... and unfortunately I was right. We dehumidified his basement for 4 months until the cupping was gone, then put a sealant on the exposed underside. Solved. What this video shows is a solution to a problem that is very likely better fixed without cutting slots in the boards or running your hands DIRECTLY over the saw blade.
One of the most dangerous how to videos. Yes the man is obvious experienced and comfortable but for someone new to the hobby be very careful with your hand placement and reaching for your board.
Thanks Wes. That's a great way of dealing with a common problem.
Hi...thanks, I appreciate the visit! Wes
Great idea! Never thought of doing this to get a flat board. This is definitely something I will remember. Thanks!
@@PennsPens very unkind way to address this issue!
Wes, thank you so much! It's always great to watch you work and teach.
HI...and thank you so much for visiting, I really appreciate the support. Wes😀
Great tip, thanks for your video! You're scaring me with your fingers that close to the blade!
Great tip Wes. I can’t imagine having to turn on my dust collection every time I use my saw. Mine is plugged into a switch that turns on my dust collection when I turn on the saw. And it stays on for 7 seconds after I turn the saw off. Its awesome. It’s called a Senctrl vacuum switch.
Hi...I am familiar with this switch. When I make videos I don't want the dust collector on all the time. Thanks for sharing...I appreciate your comment. Wes
Thanks for this. It’s funny. I’ve used this method plenty of times to get straight boards to bend and flex as needed. I’ve never considered using it to straighten/flatten boards that are cupped.
HI...I enjoyed your comment. Thanks for watching, Wes
It kills me to make this kind of comment. I like you and your talent and your presentation. I'm just concerned about your fingers. It's big box store wood, so what if theres a low spot in it? Or just a blow out during the pass? I know video can be misleading, but it looks like your two handed push through has your fingers on the fence side less than two inches from the blade? My approach might be a 2 x 12 sacrificial push stick with a sacrificial heel? I intend no offense. In fact, I'm kind of curious about your general approach on this subject.
Hi..video angles can be very deceiving and my fingers were never in
danger. I appreciate your support and being part of the community. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I have never been a video content creator. I just photos on my Facebook page. I don't understand video, but have often heard about the video angles. I'm not sure if you have a video on your approach to safety, but I find the topic interesting. I noticed some commenters are not very tolerant or kind in their comments. I'm not one of those. I sometimes have the opportunity (one on one) to help others see a safer approach to the same cut. I could certainly learn to improve my own approach from a good video. Thank you.
Genius! Thank you for that.
Great tip.
HI...thank you, I appreciate you visiting the channel. Wes
WoW! Great idea! and so simple! I guess you could glue thin strips back into the slots if you wanted to maybe I`m thinking out loud. Excellent video Wes!
Hi...thanks for your comment! I really appreciate the support, Wes 😀
Thanks Wes . This will be handy.
Hi...glad to know it has been a help. Thanks for watching, Wes
Awesome great tip thank you Wes!
Hi...you are welcome. Thanks for watching, Wes
That is neat. I think in certain situations the kerf-cut side could be used as a decorative side if it is as evenly spaced as yours was.
Hi...yes, great suggestion! Wes
Could you fill the cuts with PVA glue and hold the piece flat while it dries? That would maintain the “flatness” and also greatly increase the strength.
Yes...the curve could be filled with glue to reinforce strength and to maintain the flatness. Thanks for watching, Wes
Great tip Thank you sir .
Thank you so very much for your comment, I appreciate the visit. Wes
Thanks Wes, for the trick & tips thats ill help a lot 😉👍 Wood is a Magic skill 🙂
Yes it is! Thank you for the comment, I appreciate you visiting the channel. Wes
Great idea thank you
Hi...you are welcome, thanks for watching! Wes
Great tip! I had never heard of this before but may come in very handy. Thanks, Wes!
Happy to help! Thanks for your support...Wes
Yep. And you can also use kerf cuts to create (from flat stock) curves for certain furniture and architectural applications.
Yes curve cuts have many uses. Thanks for watching, Wes
Its why I only use rough sawn from a saw mill and mill it myself, my solution would be a jointer lol, but I know can't always do that and keep the proper width, the real problem is the woods are not dry and/or acclimated to your shop, big box store wood is never dry enough and that's the problem imo...great lill trick Wes!
Hi...I agree! Thanks for sharing, Wes
Great tip. Be careful, by the video it looked like your hands were getting close to the blade.
Yes. I shuddered every time his hand crossed over that spinning blade. Maybe just the angle of the video but it really unnerved me. Thank you, Teacher Wes, for the tip. 🙏🏽✌🏽
I think the same thing. Getting used to YOUR setup is one thing, but for a newbie watching, an element of safety has been overlooked.
I just pretend it's a Saw Stop😅
I found this a strange video, where we had an older experienced woodworker but doing some dangerous/stupid things at the end of every cut.
A blind cut with your thumb between the fence and blade without a push stick on the last 2 blind cuts was just not a good idea.
That is useful. Thanks.
Hi...thanks for watching, Wes
Great tip. Anything that can be done to stop it happening whilst the timber is being acclimated? Thanks love your videos.
Hi...the only thing that comes to mind is clamping several boards together with strips in between to allow for air flow. Thanks for watching, Wes
You could wet the cupped side and heat the other side and it'll flatten right out, but this would work.
Hi...thanks for helping us out with the tip! Wes 😀
That's an excellent tip. If you wanted to have the ends of your boards showing - say these boards will be used as drawer fronts - would non-through kerfs, starting and stopping just before the ends of the boards provide enough stress relief to work?
Hi...I have actually done that before but not as effective. Thanks for watching. Wes
Great tip, Wes! And then can you fill it with wood putty, with it clamped down flat?
Hi...yes, you could then fill it with wood putty. Thanks for watching, Wes
This is perfect. I wish there was a way I could show you the assembly table I’m working on. The table “sub” top is 1’ 7” x 5’ 7” pine. It’s cupped. It’s going on top of an airtight cabinet system I’m building. I already have to dado width wise on the bottom for the cabinet sides and center panels and the actual top will be white oak that I’m attaching to the top of this same board with galvanized pipe nipples and floor flanges that I’m repurposing. I’ll have 3 cabinets so that’s 4 dados on the bottom of this board. If I use this technique, the kerf cuts will run perpendicular do the dados. I know you probably didn’t intend on showing this for load bearing builds but do you have any of that Wes wisdom on this or help me brainstorm. Btw! It’ll be outside on a large patio, penetrating stained, spar urethaned w/ UV blockers and tinted semi transparent with beige to help keep the cabinets cool in the Louisiana heat and I’ll have flashing between metal and wood. Help! Please and TY! 😊
I typically refer questions this complex to our subscription platform
www.woodworkingwithwes.com. That way I can answer by way of a personalized video. In order to sufficiently help you that is the only way I can break this down. Thanks, Wes
Would it be an alternative if you cut the board in half, run both cut edges through the jointer and then glued the two halves together. If the new pieces are still cupped before the glue up then cut them in half again, joint and glue for a new flat board. Then both sides can be used.
Doing this will result in seams in your board which I believe Wes wants to eliminate in his project.
Because the cuts would be glued to mating surfaces the joints are practically invisible, not unlike joining book matched pieces. I have done several furniture tops where only a trained eye could find the glue joints.
Yeah, but now your 1x12 is a 1x11” every time you cut it.
I would like to see how you handle a finished cabinet door that warped and doesn't lay flat after finishing it.
Hi...in the past when I have run into that problem, I have always had to build a new door. Thanks for watching, Wes
I can't think of a project ware i could use that
I use a planer to flatten - light passes. The cupped side down /\ first then the other side
Yes...that is a good way as well. Thanks for watching, Wes
Question: wouldn't wetting the curved side and then clamping it down to dry do the same thing?
Hi...I have found that is not an acceptable solution most of the time. Thanks for the comment. Wes
Use a push stick when using the table saw and do not move your hand above the spinning saw blade. Great video otherwise.
That’s for scared 😱 amateurs!!
@@PiercesPerfectPieces or people missinng a finger or two
@@georgeaswipe5031 🤘
Thanks so much for this. I've thrown away cupped boards
Hey thank you for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video! Wes
Watch your hands mate, it’s kind of scary…great tip, thank you….
You've clearly got better saftey standards than he does.... not that it would be hard to better this dangerous bugger
Why not just reintroduce moisture to one side and have the high point facing upward?
Cause as soon as you take the moisture away it’s gonna go right back, or could even go back the opposite way.
But look at the thin cuts ( kurf) but then you don't have the full size, not the width but the thickness...
Switch to a Sawstop if you are going to keep using your hand that close to blade yeeeesh
Dangerous technique. Worse, though, is that this is totally unnecessary. The reason a board cups is uneven moisture absorption. You brought the boards into a new environment and stacked them up. Notice how it only happened to the TOP one? If you flip the board, you'll find the cupping tends to alleviate, even eliminate, itself. The best fix is to stand the boards on edge with gaps between them and allow them to acclimate to their new environment. Even with this board, you can get it back flat with this technique. I've done this for 50 years and it has never failed.
I've even experimented with wood left in a hot sun and tracked the resulting cupping. The boards will return to their original state if you handle them properly.
Also, a friend bought, milled to TnG and installed some hickory 1x6 as a floor, but had no subfloor in his old house. He finished the tops and they were gorgeous but did not seal the back sides. I warned him they'd be cupped within a few months... and unfortunately I was right. We dehumidified his basement for 4 months until the cupping was gone, then put a sealant on the exposed underside. Solved.
What this video shows is a solution to a problem that is very likely better fixed without cutting slots in the boards or running your hands DIRECTLY over the saw blade.
That technique really works well. BUT I worry about how near you hand is to that blade. My stomach is aching watching you. Otherwise, good video.
😃😃😃
That's not too smart.....you just weakened the board and it is going to crack in any application
One of the most dangerous how to videos. Yes the man is obvious experienced and comfortable but for someone new to the hobby be very careful with your hand placement and reaching for your board.
Yes but doing this method can cause global war and crop failure nation wide.