Can you finish well with a 21mm da?... i mistakenly got a 21mm when i actually wanted 15mm and im worried i might not able to get a nice finish because of the big throw
Thank you for that feedback. If you could only afford one machine pick the LHR15. If you could afford two machines then certainly pick an LHR75 as well as a LHR21
I am a DIY detailer and have used my old PC 21mm D/A polisher for several years. I still have several new 6" pads. And, I would like to go to a 15mm cordless polisher now. But I do not have any 5" pads. Are you recommending that I should stay with a 21mm thow D/A polisher? Thank you very much sir.
I am looking at this brand for a replacement of my 5 inch dual polisher. I know Rupes is the top of line. I also have a 3 inch machine and 2 inch machine. I am a homeowner with 2 classic sports cars. One has single stage paint and the other has a clearcoat. I can only afford one machine right now, so you recommend sticking with the Rupes 5 inch 15 throw? I mostly use foam pads for all three machines and I use the Jescar products.
Awesome video man. I don’t know about you but my 15mm stalls on every body panel. Been detailing for 8 years been paint correcting for 6, I’ve never had any problems with my 21mm or my 3inch but the 15mm is terrible, what could be the situation? I know how to use DA’s
Check your backing plate. It should be in contact with the rubber shroud. But it should also be lubricated periodically. I have the Duetto, and ran into that problem after a thorough cleaning. I was met with almost constant stalling, then rubber chunks being spat on to the area I was polishing, and finally the shroud wore away and it was free spinning. Then I found out about keeping the shroud lubricated, and have had success ever since. I'm not a fan of the washer mod. It gives me way more vibration, and an over all rougher ride. On the performance side, it decreases oscillation, and increases rotation. Oscillation is where the bulk of the cut comes from (70% according to Rupes), where the rotation aids in keeping the surface cool and for getting a good finish.
Hey great vid I had a quick question what rupes rotary do you recommend that doesn’t have the throw or sway that can be used angled I do boats so staying flat isn’t an option a lot of times , I’m coming from a Mikita
@@iglcoatingsau right on I got a Mille just didn’t know if you had a rupes rotary recommendation I was lookin at the lh19e but I think I’m just gonna go with a flex rotary for the weight , anyway appreciate it have a great day 🤙🏽
I have tried both brands you have mentioned. I don't see any particular advantage of disadvantages for an experienced user. They will both do the job well. Gear driven allows to change different size backing plates but also has a higher risk of damaging the car but in terms of working speed and results they are in my view equal
@@iglcoatingsau Thanks for your insight. Last question, did the gear driven finish out on softer paints well? Heard that a non gear tool would be better for softer paints. Seeing your take since you used both. Thanks again.
@@jamess.7415 as we exclusively use DA's in our workshop I cant answer this question from personal experience but we know many reputable detailers who exclusively use gear driven without any issues in finishing.
If you can finish well with rotary, the 15 will be superior choice for finishing, especially on edges of panels, and tight spots. I run wool on my 7" rotary and finish down to very fine rotary markings, and then hit with a 15mm (soft pad/finish polish) to clear up those markings. A lot depends on the paint though.
I have heard you can interchange 5" and 6" backplates on the 21 machine, which comes with the 6" backplate, Having said that, the same place where I head that also advised that you can NOT interchange 5" and 6" backplates on the 15 machine, which comes with the 5" backplates. You say that you simply can't interchange in these machines due to counterweight, but have you considered that you can interchange one way only with the 21 machine?
I have used this method before and changed the backing plates. It leads to vibration and poor performance. The difference with the machines isnt the size of the pad/backing plate but rather the throw. If you put a 6" backing plate on a LHR15 you wont get the same result as a 6" backing plate on a LHR21 as it will be 15mm throw vs 21mm throw and vice versa. The machines also spin at different RPM
I know this is a year old video but, in the beginning of the video, you were stating the 3", 5", or 6" which doesn't really make sense to debate on when really it's all about the throw of the machines. Really this debate should be centered on the fact that these machines are: 12mm (3"), 15mm (LHR15) and 21mm (LHR21)--due to the fact that you can get a 5inch backing plate for the LHR75E, a 6" b.p. for the LHR15 and a 5inch b.p. for the LHR21.
Thank you for explaining this I am in the market for one of these tools since I watch your vid it’s more clearer now
Glad I could help
Perfect video who those deciding which to buy
thank you!
Thank you so much, this really helps a beginner out!!!!!!!
My pleasure!
Starting a mobile detail business. Would you recommend 15 or 21
Hi mate you can't go wrong with either one but a 15 in my views is more versatile and will lead to better efficiency
@@iglcoatingsau thanks!
exactly what i needed. thanks!!!
Can you finish well with a 21mm da?... i mistakenly got a 21mm when i actually wanted 15mm and im worried i might not able to get a nice finish because of the big throw
Yes absolutely, a 21 finishes just as well as a 15
Hi. Thank you for the video. Great explanation. What would you recommend LHR 15 or 21 Mark III?
Thank you for that feedback. If you could only afford one machine pick the LHR15. If you could afford two machines then certainly pick an LHR75 as well as a LHR21
@@iglcoatingsau thank you for this quick reply. Have a Blessed day
Can you use the LHR 15 for paint correction and polishing?
@bobwhisenhunt7085 yes absolutely
I am a DIY detailer and have used my old PC 21mm D/A polisher for several years. I still have several new 6" pads. And, I would like to go to a 15mm cordless polisher now. But I do not have any 5" pads. Are you recommending that I should stay with a 21mm thow D/A polisher? Thank you very much sir.
In your position I would keep the 21 6" and buy a 3" smaller machine rather than switching to a 5"
@@iglcoatingsau Thank you very much sir.
Do u like rotary for correcting. Then use the random orbital to finish
To be honest I have never found the need to consider rotary
@@iglcoatingsau what r good brands besides rupes polisher ro buy. I been looking at a 21 mm
@@John33lawn we have heard a lot of good feedback about flex tools
Will it buff 3000 out?
I got both 21 and rotary the rotary was so fcking heavy 5 kg its make my arm fatigue.
Very informative much needed info thanks dude your video was awesome!
Glad it was helpful!
I am looking at this brand for a replacement of my 5 inch dual polisher. I know Rupes is the top of line. I also have a 3 inch machine and 2 inch machine. I am a homeowner with 2 classic sports cars. One has single stage paint and the other has a clearcoat. I can only afford one machine right now, so you recommend sticking with the Rupes 5 inch 15 throw? I mostly use foam pads for all three machines and I use the Jescar products.
i would stick with the 5" as long as you have a 3" as well!
I just bought the lhr15 a amazing machine
Awesome video man. I don’t know about you but my 15mm stalls on every body panel. Been detailing for 8 years been paint correcting for 6, I’ve never had any problems with my 21mm or my 3inch but the 15mm is terrible, what could be the situation? I know how to use DA’s
The 15 does have a lot less torque and you need to run it at higher speed but the washer mod also helps!
Check your backing plate. It should be in contact with the rubber shroud.
But it should also be lubricated periodically.
I have the Duetto, and ran into that problem after a thorough cleaning. I was met with almost constant stalling, then rubber chunks being spat on to the area I was polishing, and finally the shroud wore away and it was free spinning.
Then I found out about keeping the shroud lubricated, and have had success ever since.
I'm not a fan of the washer mod. It gives me way more vibration, and an over all rougher ride.
On the performance side, it decreases oscillation, and increases rotation. Oscillation is where the bulk of the cut comes from (70% according to Rupes), where the rotation aids in keeping the surface cool and for getting a good finish.
Thank you for the feedback, we have the washer mod
I’m quite new to this could you do a video explaining when to use the different speeds?
No problem at all. That is easy to do!
Hey great vid I had a quick question what rupes rotary do you recommend that doesn’t have the throw or sway that can be used angled I do boats so staying flat isn’t an option a lot of times , I’m coming from a Mikita
To be honest I cant answer that as I havent used rotary, maybe try forced rotation
@@iglcoatingsau right on I got a Mille just didn’t know if you had a rupes rotary recommendation I was lookin at the lh19e but I think I’m just gonna go with a flex rotary for the weight , anyway appreciate it have a great day 🤙🏽
Hello. What are your thoughts on a gear driven DA like the Rupes Mille or Flex XCE that have zero pad stall?
I have tried both brands you have mentioned. I don't see any particular advantage of disadvantages for an experienced user. They will both do the job well. Gear driven allows to change different size backing plates but also has a higher risk of damaging the car but in terms of working speed and results they are in my view equal
@@iglcoatingsau Thanks for your insight. Last question, did the gear driven finish out on softer paints well? Heard that a non gear tool would be better for softer paints. Seeing your take since you used both. Thanks again.
@@jamess.7415 as we exclusively use DA's in our workshop I cant answer this question from personal experience but we know many reputable detailers who exclusively use gear driven without any issues in finishing.
@@iglcoatingsau Thanks for the insight. Just deciding on which direction to go.
I would recommend DA, a little bit harder to learn/use at the beginning but in my view more versatile and safer
Very informative
Thank you
Great video- thx!
Do you know much about the Vertool 21e?
no i dont unfortunately
After heavy cutting with 7 inch rotary, which DA would be more suitable for finishing, 21 or 15 mm?
Both would be suitable just depends on how well you finished off with the cutting and also your experience with DA. The 21 will cut faster than the 15
For finish i think 15...
If you can finish well with rotary, the 15 will be superior choice for finishing, especially on edges of panels, and tight spots. I run wool on my 7" rotary and finish down to very fine rotary markings, and then hit with a 15mm (soft pad/finish polish) to clear up those markings. A lot depends on the paint though.
I have heard you can interchange 5" and 6" backplates on the 21 machine, which comes with the 6" backplate, Having said that, the same place where I head that also advised that you can NOT interchange 5" and 6" backplates on the 15 machine, which comes with the 5" backplates. You say that you simply can't interchange in these machines due to counterweight, but have you considered that you can interchange one way only with the 21 machine?
I have used this method before and changed the backing plates. It leads to vibration and poor performance. The difference with the machines isnt the size of the pad/backing plate but rather the throw. If you put a 6" backing plate on a LHR15 you wont get the same result as a 6" backing plate on a LHR21 as it will be 15mm throw vs 21mm throw and vice versa. The machines also spin at different RPM
Which one is the ROTARY?
neither is rotary
What size foam pad you use for rupes 21?
All the pads we use for 21 are 6"
Good explanation.. Thank u so much!!
Glad to be of help! Please let me know if there are any comparisons you would like to see!
I know this is a year old video but, in the beginning of the video, you were stating the 3", 5", or 6" which doesn't really make sense to debate on when really it's all about the throw of the machines.
Really this debate should be centered on the fact that these machines are: 12mm (3"), 15mm (LHR15) and 21mm (LHR21)--due to the fact that you can get a 5inch backing plate for the LHR75E, a 6" b.p. for the LHR15 and a 5inch b.p. for the LHR21.
Yeah but if you can only afford one machine it is important to know the difference and pros and cons
Like in mm
Is this a question or a statement?