Tip: Before the final adjustments of line up put the Boat in water and wait a day or two for the setlling of isolators and evt small “bending” of the hull. Thanks for many good tips and your stepwise videos… Sending a beer, cheers.😊
George, you made that engine alignment look easy! Well done! 👍🏻👍🏻 Wrangling my boat's 1500lb/680kg Cummins 6BT diesel engines is a bit more of a challenge. -------------------- "VITAL ACTIONS before leaving" - a great little checklist for all boaters. I've seen a few boaters who forgot to disconnect shore power or install the drain plug.
I've just finished bingeing your Project Lottie videos over the past week, and am now going back to watch your earlier content. Thanks for sharing the videos, George!
Pleased you have enjoyed them, i’m currently on other jobs but back on Lottie soon I hope. I think you may be the Kevin that just donated to the R&S beer and new camera fund, if so Thanks very much,
This has to be one of the best videos on engine installs that I’ve found! I am planning the same project this spring on my Hallberg Mistress 32, so an example from your contessa is pretty much as close one can get! Thank you! (Subscribed and liked as requested)
Pleased you found it useful,I’m in the midst of preparing two more engine bays fir new engines so there may be some more hints and tips to come (and some unavoidable repetition I expect)
This video reminds me of two pieces of advice I received for refitting my engine. First was to really clean & brighten the engine bay whilst you get the opportunity. The second is to fill the space with light before the engine goes in, so you can clearly see what you’re doing. My own advice I’d add is to have lots of padding to lie on as you do the yoga moves necessary to position and bolt in place the engine etc.
I have just fallen into a two day hole of project Lottie!😂 My god you have some skills.. The care and attention to detail is outstanding and I am learning a ‘boat load’ (sort of pun intended). Knowing what goes into making a UA-cam video myself I think it’s even more amazing that your documenting everything also such a lot of work. Keep up the great work on all fronts!
Pleased you like the channel and thanks for the kind comment. I expect you can see you I have (hopefully) improved on my video recording and editing as the videos progress. I will check out your channel. All the best. G
@@RefitandSail your videography is fantastic especially the positions you need to get in. I tried to video an engine service but the swearing made that content redundant 🤣! You are giving so much to so many! Well done 👍
I've just discovered your channel and after watching this vid, I have a binge schedule to watch many of your past efforts. You covered this topic with detail and expertise, which is appreciated. One request though. Please modulate your transition music. I wear head phones and one of the later music 'interludes' damn near killed what little hearing I have left. 😕
Pleased you enjoyed them, sorry about the music volume, I normally put the music down to 75% volume in the edit to avoid that but it’s likely I forgot. I should probably wear headphones in the edit for a better result.
Happy New Year George! Again very informative and cool presentation ie short, sharp to the point explanations. The engine bay with LED, Silver foil and flow coat now looks more like a hospital’s operation theatre than an engine bay - at least for the time being😉. Thank you for sharing, best wishes!
Hi George, like all your followers, I watch your videos with much interest. As for the engine alignment I thought by using this type of engine mounts, nut above and below the engine foot, you do away with shims. Cheers
Great video's! I have to add something that happened to my engine. I also put my engine on the oil pan when I removed it. Moved it around a bit and by doing that it created a small oilleak at one of the bolts of the pan. So now I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. :) Just something I experienced. Just sharing.
Great video as usual! I'm thinking of buying a sailboat and travel some. I've never had a sailboat just motorboats so your videos are very informative. I've learned a lot since watching your videos! Always looking forward to your next video! Have a happy new year to you and your family!!
Very nicely covered subject. All the alignment checks you have shown in the video ensure that the respective couplings are ‘co-planar’ - do you do the concentricity checks once afloat? 😀👍⛵️
Another great video George. Thanks for posting it between Christmas and Hogmanay. Love the belt, I wonder if they do one for Gib'Sea? I now get all my tools from a 'Men In Sheds' shop as it supports the work of Age UK and you can find all sorts of stuff there that you would never find in shops.
P/S Maybe a Torque Wrench Fund because I’m sure ft is perfectly fine for you (anodes etc) not everyone has the feel, great videos though high quality skills very well done😊
Thanks. I do have/use toeque wrench bad and when needed but it isn’t needed that often to be honest but will be pulled into service for a future video coming up soonish.
Hi I'm new to your channel and enjoying your videos very much. I think you need a HRC coupling between the shaft and motor to take up small misalignment issues.
I am pleased you are enjoying the videos, I am not sure if I mentioned it in the video but there will be a semi-flexible coupling fitted between the shaft clamp and gearbox. As much as I try to get alignment as close to perfect as possible the engine will move in operation.
I am fitting a rebuilt (by me) Beta14 into my Sadler 26 that has a VP 2001 with down angled gearbox of 7° but I have a twin Disc 40 (straight) gearbox on the Beta. Question is ...do I need to make some 7° wedges to go under the new engine mounts or will it be ok to use the mounts in a vertical position ? Hope that's clear.
Hello, could you tell me where you found these engine mounts? The boat yard (La Rochelle France) that put in my new engine (lombardini 702M) fitted the wrong ones (way too soft) and seem to have trouble finding the right ones. Great videos! Really helps with working on my contessa 32
I googled until I found the same ones that were o the engine previously, they need to be low profile to fit. Your yard should be able to source the correct mounts for your engine, vetus do a selection.
If it was a brand new engine install (which may happen in this boat a few years down the line but not right now) then I think I would have recommended a rebuild of the engine beds. But I knew I should be ok with them at that level because it’s the same engine that came out and I’m trying to save the owner some of my time and additional cost. Making what what’s there look good and correcting the previous misalignment was the most cost effective way forward. On another co32 I have to do later this year I think I’m going to cut all the old beds out and start anew but will see how that fits with the project budget. Unlike someone doing it for themselves or doing a money-no-object rebuild I’m trying to work within financial constraints to get the best result for the owners budget.
Hi George, another great video. I am just about to refit Gauntlet’s engine after doing a similar thing with an aft bulkhead and soundproofing. The Volvo 2002 must be a much bigger and heavier engine as I have to use a chain block and fence post across the companionway to lift it onto the bearers. I don’t have anywhere as much space either side. It is freshwater cooled which adds a lot of width and weight. Does Lottie have a gas locker? Even if I cut an access hatch in the port locker there is no way I could get at it like you do. Instead of shims the mountings have norlock washers on the lower and upper nuts. Maybe I should get some shims made but finding a tame machine shop who will do small bits is not that easy these days. Happy New year, I look forward to the sole completion video(s).
Hi Andrew, thanks for the comment and the donation, it’s greatly appreciated. Yes the volvo is a slightly heavier engine and the heat exchanger and associated bits make any engine bulkier. Nordlock washers work well but in the case of lottie’s engine the nuts were half the size abs therefore half the threads to take the load so using shims seems like the best way to go to ensure the engine stays aligned. I am trying to buy myself an inexpensive lathe and possibly a milling machine so I am less reliant on my mate Robin who does a lot for me, he’s offered to give me a few lessons to get me started. It will be good fir making rudder bearings and all sorts when needed (quite often!) Finishing of the cabin sole to follow but I have to do some work on some other boats that are with me so there may be a short break from project lottie but I will be producing other contessa and refit content over the coming weeks. Happy new year to you also.
Thanks, These are the led lights I used, I bought all the ones they had in stock but I guess they will get more in time. www.furneauxriddall.com/products/24-series-interior-led-strip-light-with-touch-switch-362mm-1?_pos=22&_sid=c7550536d&_ss=r
Any thoughts on using/adding an Aquadrive/Sigmadrive coupling? I like the idea of thrust going through a dedicated thrust plate rather than the engine mounts.
Aqua drive can be a good option, I fitted one a couple of years ago. I would say that you should not have any concerns about the trust going into the gearbox, engine and engine mounts as they are all designed and engineered to take it. What an aqua drive is excellent at is sorting alignment issues and isolating the engine/gearbox from the prop shaft in terms of noise transmission. With an aquadrive in place you could go for much softer engine mounts and while the engine would move a bit more in use the installation would overall be quieter. I don’t have any experience with the sigma drive but I think it is similar in terms of being able to cope with misalignment of the engine to shaft which is one way to solve a problem, the other way is to fit the engine correctly in the first place.
is it not that the engine mounting plate on the rear of the engine is upside down and indeed needs to be inverted and swapped around with the other one on the other side or would the bolts be too short??
I hadn’t considered that, I’m not sure if there would be clearance on the side of the engine to invert/swap the bolted on mount. I have some spare identical engines in the workshop so I may look at that as a possibility for another time.
Happy new year and thanks for the video, stupid question now. The water separator is mounted quite high, is that still below the waterline of the boat? or does it not matter? I have the same job to do and I am assuming that it has to be mounted below the waterline in order for it to fill up with sea water so that the suction pump can draw through the engine etc. The problem with my thinking is that the engine bay on our boat is even more cramped and finding the right spot for the separator is proving a bit annoying. Previously it had a brass column type screwed directly onto the seacock with no support which I'm not keen on keeping.
Best to mount it just above the waterline, that way you can open and clean it without having to close the seacock. The raw water pump should easily be able to pull the water up and though the strainer.
@@Jackanory222 yep. Also makes filling with antifreeze easier as you can just remove the top and pour in while the engine is running, saves having to remove hoses.
great videos and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year , i got to thinking about the buy a beer , lets hope the buy a beer does not get so out of control you become an alcoholic and you stop making videos !!l😃
Haha, honestly, it’s a bit of a joke for those that know me, I’m a total lightweight in the pub. I prob have 3 pints a week max, so I’m really trying to collect funds to buy better equipment for the channel.
@@RefitandSail lol i hope you know i was just joking lol , i will actually be donating to your channel soon because you do great work and you're picky !!
Tip: Before the final adjustments of line up put the Boat in water and wait a day or two for the setlling of isolators and evt small “bending” of the hull. Thanks for many good tips and your stepwise videos… Sending a beer, cheers.😊
George, you made that engine alignment look easy!
Well done! 👍🏻👍🏻
Wrangling my boat's 1500lb/680kg Cummins 6BT diesel engines is a bit more of a challenge.
--------------------
"VITAL ACTIONS before leaving" - a great little checklist for all boaters.
I've seen a few boaters who forgot to disconnect shore power or install the drain plug.
I've just finished bingeing your Project Lottie videos over the past week, and am now going back to watch your earlier content. Thanks for sharing the videos, George!
Pleased you have enjoyed them, i’m currently on other jobs but back on Lottie soon I hope. I think you may be the Kevin that just donated to the R&S beer and new camera fund, if so Thanks very much,
@@RefitandSail Me indeed. Cheers!
This has to be one of the best videos on engine installs that I’ve found! I am planning the same project this spring on my Hallberg Mistress 32, so an example from your contessa is pretty much as close one can get! Thank you! (Subscribed and liked as requested)
Pleased you found it useful,I’m in the midst of preparing two more engine bays fir new engines so there may be some more hints and tips to come (and some unavoidable repetition I expect)
Excellent job. The engine bed is so beautiful and you paid good attention to details
This video reminds me of two pieces of advice I received for refitting my engine. First was to really clean & brighten the engine bay whilst you get the opportunity. The second is to fill the space with light before the engine goes in, so you can clearly see what you’re doing. My own advice I’d add is to have lots of padding to lie on as you do the yoga moves necessary to position and bolt in place the engine etc.
I have just fallen into a two day hole of project Lottie!😂 My god you have some skills.. The care and attention to detail is outstanding and I am learning a ‘boat load’ (sort of pun intended).
Knowing what goes into making a UA-cam video myself I think it’s even more amazing that your documenting everything also such a lot of work.
Keep up the great work on all fronts!
Pleased you like the channel and thanks for the kind comment. I expect you can see you I have (hopefully) improved on my video recording and editing as the videos progress. I will check out your channel. All the best. G
@@RefitandSail your videography is fantastic especially the positions you need to get in.
I tried to video an engine service but the swearing made that content redundant 🤣! You are giving so much to so many!
Well done 👍
@@Thesailing_chef haha, thanks, don’t worry there is plenty of swearing some days but I try to keep the videos clean.
8:30 Bravo!!
I've just discovered your channel and after watching this vid, I have a binge schedule to watch many of your
past efforts. You covered this topic with detail and expertise, which is appreciated.
One request though.
Please modulate your transition music.
I wear head phones and one of the later music 'interludes' damn near killed what little hearing I have left. 😕
Pleased you enjoyed them, sorry about the music volume, I normally put the music down to 75% volume in the edit to avoid that but it’s likely I forgot. I should probably wear headphones in the edit for a better result.
Happy New Year George! Again very informative and cool presentation ie short, sharp to the point explanations. The engine bay with LED, Silver foil and flow coat now looks more like a hospital’s operation theatre than an engine bay - at least for the time being😉. Thank you for sharing, best wishes!
Thanks Ulrick, happy new year. P.s not forgotten about your rudder
Hi George, like all your followers, I watch your videos with much interest. As for the engine alignment I thought by using this type of engine mounts, nut above and below the engine foot, you do away with shims. Cheers
Good job , and yes this helps with the odd time between…. Happy New Year George !
Thanks again. This video was particularly helpful to me. I’m restoring two old lake boats and one has all new engine stringers.
Great video's! I have to add something that happened to my engine. I also put my engine on the oil pan when I removed it. Moved it around a bit and by doing that it created a small oilleak at one of the bolts of the pan. So now I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. :) Just something I experienced. Just sharing.
Nice work very impressive
Great video as usual! I'm thinking of buying a sailboat and travel some. I've never had a sailboat just motorboats so your videos are very informative. I've learned a lot since watching your videos! Always looking forward to your next video! Have a happy new year to you and your family!!
Pleased you like them. Hopefully I’ll get some more sailing vids on refit and sail in 2023!
Nice job!
I love the series :)
Thx for the upload!
Happy new year 🎉
Very nicely covered subject.
All the alignment checks you have shown in the video ensure that the respective couplings are ‘co-planar’ - do you do the concentricity checks once afloat?
😀👍⛵️
Another great video George. Thanks for posting it between Christmas and Hogmanay.
Love the belt, I wonder if they do one for Gib'Sea?
I now get all my tools from a 'Men In Sheds' shop as it supports the work of Age UK and you can find all sorts of stuff there that you would never find in shops.
Excellent again George. Happy new year.
Thanks. All the best.
Could you please share a link or description for the heat shielding and the lights that you used in the engine bay? Thanks!
🍁🤠
P/S Maybe a Torque Wrench Fund because I’m sure ft is perfectly fine for you (anodes etc) not everyone has the feel, great videos though high quality skills very well done😊
Thanks. I do have/use toeque wrench bad and when needed but it isn’t needed that often to be honest but will be pulled into service for a future video coming up soonish.
Feeler guages at 9 - 12 - 3 - 6 positions. I've seen this been done on a nuclear reactor gas circulator drive shaft on an external motor drive unit.
I imagine that accuracy is a bit more critical on a nuclear reactor but still nice to have things well aligned on a sailboat engine
Hi I'm new to your channel and enjoying your videos very much. I think you need a HRC coupling between the shaft and motor to take up small misalignment issues.
I am pleased you are enjoying the videos, I am not sure if I mentioned it in the video but there will be a semi-flexible coupling fitted between the shaft clamp and gearbox. As much as I try to get alignment as close to perfect as possible the engine will move in operation.
I am fitting a rebuilt (by me) Beta14 into my Sadler 26 that has a VP 2001 with down angled gearbox of 7° but I have a twin Disc 40 (straight) gearbox on the Beta. Question is ...do I need to make some 7° wedges to go under the new engine mounts or will it be ok to use the mounts in a vertical position ? Hope that's clear.
I know it was a year ago now, but could you have swapped the left and the right mounting brackets over that might have given you more adjustment?
I think the engine beds were not symmetrical so swapping the engine mounts (which are identical) would have made no difference
Hello, could you tell me where you found these engine mounts? The boat yard (La Rochelle France) that put in my new engine (lombardini 702M) fitted the wrong ones (way too soft) and seem to have trouble finding the right ones. Great videos! Really helps with working on my contessa 32
I googled until I found the same ones that were o the engine previously, they need to be low profile to fit. Your yard should be able to source the correct mounts for your engine, vetus do a selection.
Great Job! Just wondering why you did not choose to lower the engine beds instead of removing the lock washer and milling down the nut? Keep at it!
If it was a brand new engine install (which may happen in this boat a few years down the line but not right now) then I think I would have recommended a rebuild of the engine beds. But I knew I should be ok with them at that level because it’s the same engine that came out and I’m trying to save the owner some of my time and additional cost. Making what what’s there look good and correcting the previous misalignment was the most cost effective way forward.
On another co32 I have to do later this year I think I’m going to cut all the old beds out and start anew but will see how that fits with the project budget. Unlike someone doing it for themselves or doing a money-no-object rebuild I’m trying to work within financial constraints to get the best result for the owners budget.
Hi George, another great video. I am just about to refit Gauntlet’s engine after doing a similar thing with an aft bulkhead and soundproofing. The Volvo 2002 must be a much bigger and heavier engine as I have to use a chain block and fence post across the companionway to lift it onto the bearers.
I don’t have anywhere as much space either side. It is freshwater cooled which adds a lot of width and weight.
Does Lottie have a gas locker? Even if I cut an access hatch in the port locker there is no way I could get at it like you do.
Instead of shims the mountings have norlock washers on the lower and upper nuts. Maybe I should get some shims made but finding a tame machine shop who will do small bits is not that easy these days.
Happy New year, I look forward to the sole completion video(s).
Hi Andrew, thanks for the comment and the donation, it’s greatly appreciated. Yes the volvo is a slightly heavier engine and the heat exchanger and associated bits make any engine bulkier.
Nordlock washers work well but in the case of lottie’s engine the nuts were half the size abs therefore half the threads to take the load so using shims seems like the best way to go to ensure the engine stays aligned.
I am trying to buy myself an inexpensive lathe and possibly a milling machine so I am less reliant on my mate Robin who does a lot for me, he’s offered to give me a few lessons to get me started. It will be good fir making rudder bearings and all sorts when needed (quite often!)
Finishing of the cabin sole to follow but I have to do some work on some other boats that are with me so there may be a short break from project lottie but I will be producing other contessa and refit content over the coming weeks. Happy new year to you also.
Thank you, very good job you are doing 👍🏼 do you have a link to the engine leds? Merry Christmas 🎄
Thanks, These are the led lights I used, I bought all the ones they had in stock but I guess they will get more in time. www.furneauxriddall.com/products/24-series-interior-led-strip-light-with-touch-switch-362mm-1?_pos=22&_sid=c7550536d&_ss=r
So, does the gearbox take all the thrust from the prop?
Yes, that’s the most common set up on small engines, the gearbox is designated for this
Any thoughts on using/adding an Aquadrive/Sigmadrive coupling? I like the idea of thrust going through a dedicated thrust plate rather than the engine mounts.
Aqua drive can be a good option, I fitted one a couple of years ago. I would say that you should not have any concerns about the trust going into the gearbox, engine and engine mounts as they are all designed and engineered to take it. What an aqua drive is excellent at is sorting alignment issues and isolating the engine/gearbox from the prop shaft in terms of noise transmission. With an aquadrive in place you could go for much softer engine mounts and while the engine would move a bit more in use the installation would overall be quieter. I don’t have any experience with the sigma drive but I think it is similar in terms of being able to cope with misalignment of the engine to shaft which is one way to solve a problem, the other way is to fit the engine correctly in the first place.
@@RefitandSail There is that :)
is it not that the engine mounting plate on the rear of the engine is upside down and indeed needs to be inverted and swapped around with the other one on the other side or would the bolts be too short??
I hadn’t considered that, I’m not sure if there would be clearance on the side of the engine to invert/swap the bolted on mount. I have some spare identical engines in the workshop so I may look at that as a possibility for another time.
Happy new year and thanks for the video, stupid question now. The water separator is mounted quite high, is that still below the waterline of the boat? or does it not matter? I have the same job to do and I am assuming that it has to be mounted below the waterline in order for it to fill up with sea water so that the suction pump can draw through the engine etc. The problem with my thinking is that the engine bay on our boat is even more cramped and finding the right spot for the separator is proving a bit annoying. Previously it had a brass column type screwed directly onto the seacock with no support which I'm not keen on keeping.
Best to mount it just above the waterline, that way you can open and clean it without having to close the seacock. The raw water pump should easily be able to pull the water up and though the strainer.
@@RefitandSail that's worth a beer then :) thanks
You can always fill the filter with some water which will then help the pump lift the sea water
@@hatatfatcat thanks!
@@Jackanory222 yep. Also makes filling with antifreeze easier as you can just remove the top and pour in while the engine is running, saves having to remove hoses.
great videos and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year , i got to thinking about the buy a beer , lets hope the buy a beer does not get so out of control you become an alcoholic and you stop making videos !!l😃
Haha, honestly, it’s a bit of a joke for those that know me, I’m a total lightweight in the pub. I prob have 3 pints a week max, so I’m really trying to collect funds to buy better equipment for the channel.
@@RefitandSail lol i hope you know i was just joking lol , i will actually be donating to your channel soon because you do great work and you're picky !!
@@Anne6621 no probs, I guessed you were kidding. Pleased you like the videos.