Mackay make 3/4"/19mm heater/water hoses with 90 deg bends. Part number UHB19 with 4 inch length ends UHB19-300 for 12 inch length ends. Any parts shop worth their Coopers should be able to order. Love the vids, keep em coming cobber.
Stu, you have to move the adjustments in unison.If you only adjust one jack bolt at a time you are going to be chasing it. Remember you must get the plane first. Start by getting an even amount of pressure on all the jacking screws , now using your calipers set the side to side (horizontal gap) dimension on the flange, this can be done by moving your side adjustment screws that are diagonal to each other. When the dimensions are close check again that you have pressure on all your jacking screws (this can vary at this stage because you are not moving on machined mating surfaces). You can now set the vertical dimension to be equal top and bottom (this is achieved by raising or lowering the engine front to back) remember to move both jacking screws either front or back the same amount. When the dimension (gap) between the flanges is equal you are in plane. You are now ready to bring the flanges into alignment with each other using the side adjustment and your jacking screws, if you make a vertical adjustment, it must be to all four screws, sideways adjustments must be the same front and back. The resistance then sudden movement to your adjustments is known as slip stick(friction) and exists between all moving parts to some degree. In your application when making a side adjustment I would suggest a hammer blow to the base of all four jacking screws in the direction of the intended movement. Sorry if this is a little long winded but remember you must attain plane first and then maintain it while making alignment adjustments.
Stu, check out the following gates molded hoses for the water manifold to exhaust manifold hose: #20618, 3/4 X 4 15/16, #19658, 3/4 X 6 13/16, #19736, 3/4 X 7 1/2. Hopefully someone near you might have one of these in stock.
Did you drop the gantry crane in the drink ? Lol. On that small curved hose get a spring that the hose fits in and cut to full length of hose and insert hose into it ! Works great from letting hoses kink ! I have one on my 5 gal. lower unit gear lube filing hose ! Man you knocked out a bunch of smalls on this video ! 👍
Barring finding a convenient off the shelf adapter, you might be able to drill out the center of the old temperature sender and run a thread tap to turn it into an adapter. I've done similar on old vehicles, and just eyeballing it on the video it looks like you'd have enough size difference to pull it off. She's coming along nicely Stu.
Okay, now I’m just getting plain old excited for you! Taking your time, doing it right whenever possible, that’s one of the main reasons I watch I think. I hope the next few months go well for you.
Gantry crane pulling double duty as an anchor? Lining up the shafts would be a job I would need to do on my own, otherwise I would lose at least 1 friend. 😡😡😡 👍👍👍
Hi Stu, Giving my 10cents for what its worth, When fixing your Morse throttle and gear cables, I found over the years to check the resistance from the helm to the fuel pump that often it takes a lesser bend to give the cable an easier (less resistance) by routing it differant ways, I am sure you are well aware of that, But Morse cables have either worked fantastic , or tried to leave me with a hard throttle to open and shut off (Bugger), But I love the project, and applaud you patience, Regards Sam.
Hey man. I did a re-engine job on my boat a couple years ago, taking out a V8 gas and installing a 4 cylinder diesel. I can really appreciate what you are going through! Alignments are truly a test of patience! Great job on the videos and dialogue!!
Missing Daffy and the girls!!! It's easy to tell that you have made your living turning wrenches in the past. I keep seeing Snap On and Blue Point logos! :-D
@@LegendLength Both sensors and senders have an output, but the difference is like that of analogue and digital. One will apply a simple on/off switching, and the other will apply a variable output.
@@chrisskelhorn5727 A sender transwer directly information to a unit, say, like a fuel gauge. a sensor transwer information to a alredy programmed unit, like a ecu, if there is a difference in the programmed information the sensor pics it up and send that information to the unit, the unit responses with a code error and sometimes the engine fails to work normal. There is a lot`s of different sensors but they work almost the same. in the end of the day you can say that a sensor is also a sending unit but yes, like you say, it is a different between them.
I laughed when I saw the crane go out the door like I mentioned in previous video. As far as I'm aware tapered pipe thread does not come metric. Baring that grab brass plug for hole and tap it however you want.
Who was that bloke in the hotel room at the beginning? He looked vaguely familiar. I thought it may have been you Stu. I thought " Nah too trim and tidy looking"
It must have been something other than the buzzsaw. That's either at home when on the boat. or on the boat when he is at home. Those two... or he has to order one or go to the shop.
I'm really enjoying the trawler videos. Can't wait until it's done though, I'm keen to see you do a bit of fishing and sunken boat recovery. Keep up the good work. 👍
I don't know Stu, your helper looks a bit ruff. I'm not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I enjoy watching every video for some reason. I did learn how to remove a gantry property. 😂😂👍👍 Tell your dad hello! I lost my dad/best friend last year.
Looking Good Stu, are you considering a couple of protective shrouds for the battery switches? Would not want to see one belted off by a scuba tank or other equipment. Alignment is getting there mate. Keep up the good work. Regards from beautiful Bribie Island.
Hi Stu, are you going to have a manual pull cable, as a back up to the shut off solenoid, just in case. As the old saying, "What Could Possibly Go Wrong"
Here’s a thought. Make an alignment fixture the same thickness as the flex coupling with one o.d. same as the gear flange and the other o.d. as the prop flange. This way you won’t have the inconsistency of measurement from the pliable material of the flex coupling. You can use feeler gauges for side to side and angular. Then a straight edge for concentricity.
Not sure how you plan to route the battery cables to the shut off switches but i think i would have mounted the switches so the connections would be horizontal (side by side) rather than vertical in case the top cable comes a bit loose and drops touching the lower cable therefore bypassing the switch. Great video and I am looking forward to the engine firing up!
Just loop a longer hose when a preformed hose is not available. Its been a while since I have ran an older diesel engine down the road but I do remember the cooling systems ran with a 5lb cap on the tank and 1 bar is 14lb? That seems a bit high. Maybe those old 2 strokes ran higher but not sure. Not a Detroit fan but I have a lot of friends who are, I always wave as I go by:)
ok, one minute in and you dump and I beam in the drink and you are not even going to talk about it???? Like ahh, look, my crane bit just took a swim.... ah well off to paint this solenoid , no worries...i'm only two minutes in and I do hope you go back to that footage and narrate it a bit ahahahahaha
Keep a eye on that tie wrap ive had them cut into hoses before and if that temp sender is metric and the engine side is imperial you could get adapter to go smaller than you need and drill it out and tap it
I'm sitting here watching this video, trying to ignore all the fiberglass itching i'm experience, and wondering why the hell I didn't get a steel boat to restore.
Fair dinkum Stu, hadn't even got a minute in and was cracking up as the gantry takes a tumble and you diving for cover... lol. Was even clapping my hands as I laughed. Safety first 'yep mate... Anyway, was a great video, got a lot of little projects out of the way and bought us along for the ride. Anyway, looking forward to the next one, enjoy your time away. Cheers for now mate... ;-}
you probably should put an expansion tank on the coolant overflow, easy to see the level before startup....... can't wait till she moves under her own power Stu.
Hey Stu, that radiator cap is good to use if you want to fit a 'recovery tank' to your cooling system (seal top and bottom). A reco tank makes it easier to keep an eye on your coolant level / condition, and also helps to keep the bilge dry. Just a thought.
Suggest you run the coolant overflow pipe into a plastic bottle. That way you can see if you have a problem and save any overflow as a top up when it cools down.
Stu, spin that battery disconnect 90° itll help prevent the cables from coming lose and coming in contact with each other. You want the lugs horizontal.
Great video Stu ,you may have some great fishing off the boat once you're artificial reef gets a little bigger, Eddie is great help, never has a bad day, Jeff in LA USA
In theory... don't address the centering left/right up/down yet. Get your flanges parallel first. (Maybe separate the flanges by a .010 or .020 inch and use feeler gauges). Next, no matter what, adjust all 4 horizontals or verticals the same amounts to get the port/starboard and THEN the vertical centering. By proof the top and bottom will be the same if both sides match, as you were saying.
Show of hands please: Who did not see that gantry crane gaffe coming?BTW. I came here a couple years ago while troubleshooting a sticky steering cable. That work out well, but I've been stuck here ever since. Can't get enough. Good show Stu!
Hi stu. Just another comment. ( one amongst heaps no doubt) is it possible to locate your out filter a little,e further to port under the deck. In the old position it’s blocking access somewhat. Just a thought. Your going well with the alignment. Step by step. Take your time . Don’t get stressed. When I’ve done similar jobs I eventually get lost. Engine to the right screw the left screw, or unwind the right? An hour or so an my brain is fried. That’s what you get with old age !
Hey Gary, access is definitely an issue with this engine bay. I'm also planning to add an air compressor which is going to fill my primate access point so I may have to do some serious rearranging soon.
FYI ..When you make your throttle bracket. I saw on Project Brupeg they added a support beam to keep it from flexing and were told not to make it out of aluminum, but stainless steal...
Yes, I saw that too, but I found the perfect piece of thick aluminium and having seen thin aluminium hulls take a pounding for 60 years I'm not buying the work hardening theory when it comes to throttle brackets.
Ah you're only an hr north from me in this video. Inerestingly enough I saw a wagon like yours heading north up the F3 yesterday around Erina area. We went down to Sydney on Saturday to sail on on a cruise for 1st responders (great trip) and I was showing the family where you are when going across the Hawksbury Bridge on the F3.
Hello from Vancouver Island, Stu if you can't find an adapter for the temp sender you may be able to drill the guts out of the old one and tap it. Thank you Stu for the videos look forward to the new one every week, I used your tutorials since you started putting them on youtube now this boat build is golden information, so thank you for taking the time to explain everything it really helps people.
Hope it didnt hit the Red Dwarf, lol Lister would not be happy :P Well Criton Mate you would not have wanted to annoy him , he would call you a sssmmmmmmmmeeeeee a Smmmmmmeeeeee ........ ok ill say it , a smeg head ..lol
Hi Stu. Been watching for quite a while and enjoying your channel. For your alignment may I suggest you get the faces of the couplings aligned first. It doesn’t matter if you’re high or low or off to one side. Just so long as they are true to each other. Then you adjust your height or side to side alignment. That way you can count your turns on the jacking bolts while maintaining that face alignment. For example if you’re low you wind up all the jacking bolts the same amount of turns and maintain your face alignment. Same for sideways adjustment. You may need a final tweak for the face but that way you’re only chasing one axis at a time instead of trying to do all three at once. Edit: Actually you’re trying to chase 4 axes.
While watching had an idea that I used on my lathe for alinement of the chuck and spindle, placed a rod in the chuck and spun a point on it and then brought the spindle up to the chuck so both points meet, any variation is visible. Remove the bushing and turn up 2 plates with a 1inch pin at the centre, make both plates the same diameter as the flanges they will fit on, no need to keep measuring just look. Speaking from experience turn the power switch 90 degrees, if the top cable comes lose, it can catch and spark. Better to have both cables coming from under the deck vertical. Plus where the switches are, air tanks and heavy equipment 😫 Love the vids keep em coming.
can you fit an expansion bottle to the heater system, then you don't loose antifreeze in to the bilge, and would be easy to visually check the level without removing the cap.
Been through the port bar twice stu depth wasnt an issue (41' foot sv with a 1.8m draft) but i used my plotter to get close to the optimum line until i could see the alignment markers as either side of the narrow channel there were breaking waves ( 1.5m swell on the way in ) a lot of teeth grinding the first time but as long as you stick close to the line and aviod larger swell on an ebb tide , all good
Good to hear it went well. The sectors are well marked on the charts I have so following them in shouldn't be a bit issue. Just need to time the arrival for the tides and wait for good weather.
Stu I can’t believe how far you have come and I’m excited to see it fire up and go out on the open sea. I’m just putting in my new windlass. Very exciting to see your progress every week. See you next time.
as a general rule when drilling metals....the harder the metal, use a slower speed with more pressure (and cutting oil)....for softer metals, use higher speeds and lighter pressure.
As another person who was about to go to bed... Stu you're awesome. Thanks for sharing your project with us :) It's nice to know cool shit is going on all over the world when you're trying to sleep *I can't believe I call you Steve. Yes it's late
Those rubber engine mounts can be a huge pain in the ass. I have used silicone grease under the mounts to help reduce the friction for fine adjustments in the past. I can't say it was a perfect fix, but it did seem to reduce the distance it jumped on fine-tuning.
Don't sweat the hose closing up a little on the ninety degree bend , the inner bores of the brass fittings on both ends are much more restrictive then the slight narrowing of the hose. Plus when pressurized the hose will exspand
Hey stu those isolator switches look like they are at kicking height, they may easily get damaged, we have similar problems with out machines so we put like a U kitchen door handle above it the protect it a bit, might be an idea
Hey Stu, I know a guy that has a 471 blower(Reliabuilt Reman) for sale if your interested. I purchased a 871 blower for our MCI bus from him. Let me know. Great videos!!!!!!!
Hi Stu, like you said tough to align by yourself and not allot of room for two people down there. You are really close though. Your plan on moving the prop should give you the room though without dry docking to finish the alignment but what I have seen so far. Once it's set is there a recommended torque sequence and torque? I finally go a new editing software for my channel and just testing it currently. Love it so far
LOL... safety securing the gantry as it goes overboard.... should watch the rest of the video to see if you retrieved it :-)
Because I know a million people will ask I should mention that it actually hung up on the edge of the bulwark so I just dragged it back on deck. :)
@@DangarMarine Sure it did. hahahaha
@@DangarMarine Aren't you building the boat as a wreck recovery vessel? Seems like a perfect start...
@@DangarMarine you got lucky.
I was thinking about the zodiac getting nailed and sinking! You lucked out getting it back !!
Mackay make 3/4"/19mm heater/water hoses with 90 deg bends. Part number UHB19 with 4 inch length ends UHB19-300 for 12 inch length ends.
Any parts shop worth their Coopers should be able to order.
Love the vids, keep em coming cobber.
"Think I'll do that.......later!" Classic
Coronavirus spreading, markets crashing, toilet paper panic-buying... And then there's this... 3:18. Suddenly, 2020 is okay again.
interesting how the stuffing box is dry in some scenes then dripping pretty steadily in others. mood swings perhaps.
Stu, you have to move the adjustments in unison.If you only adjust one jack bolt at a time you are going to be chasing it. Remember you must get the plane first. Start by getting an even amount of pressure on all the jacking screws , now using your calipers set the side to side (horizontal gap) dimension on the flange, this can be done by moving your side adjustment screws that are diagonal to each other. When the dimensions are close check again that you have pressure on all your jacking screws (this can vary at this stage because you are not moving on machined mating surfaces). You can now set the vertical dimension to be equal top and bottom (this is achieved by raising or lowering the engine front to back) remember to move both jacking screws either front or back the same amount. When the dimension (gap) between the flanges is equal you are in plane.
You are now ready to bring the flanges into alignment with each other using the side adjustment and your jacking screws, if you make a vertical adjustment, it must be to all four screws, sideways adjustments must be the same front and back. The resistance then sudden movement to your adjustments is known as slip stick(friction) and exists between all moving parts to some degree. In your application when making a side adjustment I would suggest a hammer blow to the base of all four jacking screws in the direction of the intended movement.
Sorry if this is a little long winded but remember you must attain plane first and then maintain it while making alignment adjustments.
Install a clear coolant expansion tank Stu. Easy to check the level without removing a cap.
Only costs lest then a six pack
But it’s under the weighty engine cover
Yes, I will look around for a suitable one.
@@DangarMarine use a land rover one or something from a car... junk yard find maybe.
@Thomas Hood I was going to say something about Lucas, the prince of darkness but I didn't want to jinx the project
hey, may be a stupid question but you are using diesel proof hose? My diesel hose is red in colour. Good work, keep at it.
Stu, check out the following gates molded hoses for the water manifold to exhaust manifold hose: #20618, 3/4 X 4 15/16, #19658, 3/4 X 6 13/16, #19736, 3/4 X 7 1/2. Hopefully someone near you might have one of these in stock.
Did you drop the gantry crane in the drink ? Lol. On that small curved hose get a spring that the hose fits in and cut to full length of hose and insert hose into it ! Works great from letting hoses kink ! I have one on my 5 gal. lower unit gear lube filing hose ! Man you knocked out a bunch of smalls on this video ! 👍
Barring finding a convenient off the shelf adapter, you might be able to drill out the center of the old temperature sender and run a thread tap to turn it into an adapter. I've done similar on old vehicles, and just eyeballing it on the video it looks like you'd have enough size difference to pull it off. She's coming along nicely Stu.
Well I was about to go to bed but guess I'm staying up now
Okay, now I’m just getting plain old excited for you! Taking your time, doing it right whenever possible, that’s one of the main reasons I watch I think. I hope the next few months go well for you.
Thanks mate. One step at a time!
Gantry crane pulling double duty as an anchor? Lining up the shafts would be a job I would need to do on my own, otherwise I would lose at least 1 friend. 😡😡😡 👍👍👍
Thanks for including the crane jumping ship on you! Fish will enjoy the new habitat. 😄
Hi, you're not far away from lining up the engine now. All them little jobs have to be done anyway. can't wait for the engine to start . Great job.👍🇬🇧
Hi Stu, Giving my 10cents for what its worth, When fixing your Morse throttle and gear cables, I found over the years to check the resistance from the helm to the fuel pump that often it takes a lesser bend to give the cable an easier (less resistance) by routing it differant ways, I am sure you are well aware of that, But Morse cables have either worked fantastic , or tried to leave me with a hard throttle to open and shut off (Bugger), But I love the project, and applaud you patience, Regards Sam.
For sure, will try to keep the bend and gentle as possible.
use a bottle to catch the antifreeze overflow as it will expand when it heats up and contract when it cools down . that will keep the tank full
take your time, better do it right than rushing and ruinuing it.
Hey man. I did a re-engine job on my boat a couple years ago, taking out a V8 gas and installing a 4 cylinder diesel. I can really appreciate what you are going through! Alignments are truly a test of patience! Great job on the videos and dialogue!!
Thanks Barry, I thought you made a good choice getting that petrol engine out of your boat. They can be dangerous and thirsty!
Ah yes, the model UP-U 69 Rearend-O-Scope. Bend-O-Matic Hindgrinder is usful too.
Missing Daffy and the girls!!! It's easy to tell that you have made your living turning wrenches in the past. I keep seeing Snap On and Blue Point logos! :-D
I recently ordered from MarineEngine.com. I made sure to comment on my order that I was supporting them because they support Dangar Marine.
Thanks mate, I appreciate you letting them know. :)
The adapter you need is 1/2 BSP, (plumbing thread) to 1/8" 27 NPT by the looks of it. It's a standard VDO part at any auto store.
If that adapter doesn't suit the another option could be to get a plug to fit the engine, then drill and tap to suit the temperature sender.
@@LegendLength Because it 'sends' a reading rather than 'senses' the reading! There is a difference, but it's quite subtle! :-)
@@LegendLength Both sensors and senders have an output, but the difference is like that of analogue and digital. One will apply a simple on/off switching, and the other will apply a variable output.
@@chrisskelhorn5727 A sender transwer directly information to a unit, say, like a fuel gauge. a sensor transwer information to a alredy programmed unit, like a ecu, if there is a difference in the programmed information the sensor pics it up and send that information to the unit, the unit responses with a code error and sometimes the engine fails to work normal. There is a lot`s of different sensors but they work almost the same. in the end of the day you can say that a sensor is also a sending unit but yes, like you say, it is a different between them.
I'll see what they have at my local auto store.
I laughed when I saw the crane go out the door like I mentioned in previous video. As far as I'm aware tapered pipe thread does not come metric. Baring that grab brass plug for hole and tap it however you want.
I think you are right about the thread. I'm pretty sure the guy at Pirtek said it was NPT.
Who was that bloke in the hotel room at the beginning? He looked vaguely familiar. I thought it may have been you Stu. I thought " Nah too trim and tidy looking"
Bob8091 Exactly! Was thinking is that a Doppelgänger or did 5 people hold him down for the Buzzsaw?! 🤪😂🤣😇
It must have been something other than the buzzsaw. That's either at home when on the boat. or on the boat when he is at home. Those two... or he has to order one or go to the shop.
ordered parts from Marineengine.com Told them I found them through your channel.Very knowledgeable and friendly people and great prices...
I'm really enjoying the trawler videos. Can't wait until it's done though, I'm keen to see you do a bit of fishing and sunken boat recovery. Keep up the good work. 👍
I don't know Stu, your helper looks a bit ruff. I'm not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I enjoy watching every video for some reason. I did learn how to remove a gantry property. 😂😂👍👍 Tell your dad hello! I lost my dad/best friend last year.
I'm glad i stayed up until 1:14 AM
Looking Good Stu, are you considering a couple of protective shrouds for the battery switches? Would not want to see one belted off by a scuba tank or other equipment. Alignment is getting there mate. Keep up the good work. Regards from beautiful Bribie Island.
Stu the quality of the videos has really gone to the next level. Putting on a clean shirt and washing the hair is over the top. Haha!!!
You're having way too much fun
For the temp sensor buy a standard npt plug that fits the engine, then drill and tap it to fit the new metric sensor
Hi Stu, are you going to have a manual pull cable, as a back up to the shut off solenoid, just in case. As the old saying, "What Could Possibly Go Wrong"
Here’s a thought. Make an alignment fixture the same thickness as the flex coupling with one o.d. same as the gear flange and the other o.d. as the prop flange. This way you won’t have the inconsistency of measurement from the pliable material of the flex coupling. You can use feeler gauges for side to side and angular. Then a straight edge for concentricity.
Not sure how you plan to route the battery cables to the shut off switches but i think i would have mounted the switches so the connections would be horizontal (side by side) rather than vertical in case the top cable comes a bit loose and drops touching the lower cable therefore bypassing the switch. Great video and I am looking forward to the engine firing up!
Just loop a longer hose when a preformed hose is not available. Its been a while since I have ran an older diesel engine down the road but I do remember the cooling systems ran with a 5lb cap on the tank and 1 bar is 14lb? That seems a bit high. Maybe those old 2 strokes ran higher but not sure. Not a Detroit fan but I have a lot of friends who are, I always wave as I go by:)
103.9 the fox. Flints classic rock authority.
ok, one minute in and you dump and I beam in the drink and you are not even going to talk about it???? Like ahh, look, my crane bit just took a swim.... ah well off to paint this solenoid , no worries...i'm only two minutes in and I do hope you go back to that footage and narrate it a bit ahahahahaha
Keep a eye on that tie wrap ive had them cut into hoses before and if that temp sender is metric and the engine side is imperial you could get adapter to go smaller than you need and drill it out and tap it
Yeah, it's only temporary. Bend hose on its way!
"I think I'll do that...later."
How many times have I said that?
I'm sitting here watching this video, trying to ignore all the fiberglass itching i'm experience, and wondering why the hell I didn't get a steel boat to restore.
Fair dinkum Stu, hadn't even got a minute in and was cracking up as the gantry takes a tumble and you diving for cover... lol. Was even clapping my hands as I laughed. Safety first 'yep mate... Anyway, was a great video, got a lot of little projects out of the way and bought us along for the ride. Anyway, looking forward to the next one, enjoy your time away. Cheers for now mate... ;-}
Thanks Shane. :)
Stu you own a genuine Snap-on 'rear endescope'? truly blessed hahahaaaaa :)
Rydges is nice isnt it . Port is great place they have the island trader supply boat go to lord howe from there
you probably should put an expansion tank on the coolant overflow, easy to see the level before startup....... can't wait till she moves under her own power Stu.
That looks like thirsty work stu cheers mate 🍺
First job should be baiting the hooks and getting the rods out stu 🎣🎣🎣
Right you are!
You can get a threaded plug for that temp sensor. Then just tap your threads. Not much drama there mate
Yes, that's what I ended up buying before I left.
The notch on the temp sensor hex usually means it's a lefthanded thread. Might wanna check that before buying an adapter.
Good tip.
A catch tnk on that coolant pressure relief. Plastic milk bottle?
doin it Dangar style
Hey Stu, that radiator cap is good to use if you want to fit a 'recovery tank' to your cooling system (seal top and bottom). A reco tank makes it easier to keep an eye on your coolant level / condition, and also helps to keep the bilge dry. Just a thought.
Suggest you run the coolant overflow pipe into a plastic bottle. That way you can see if you have a problem and save any overflow as a top up when it cools down.
Getting so close! You are very thorough, pleasure to watch.
Enjoyable as usual, thanks Stu.
Mr. Tap & Die says anything will thread into any hole
Hey you look like quite a presentable chap cleaned up in that hotel 😉
A little birdie suggested that it might be your birthday. If it is, many happy returns.
Thanks Paul! :)
Stu, spin that battery disconnect 90° itll help prevent the cables from coming lose and coming in contact with each other. You want the lugs horizontal.
Humm... 610 views 12 min ago... 51 views per min
OK... getting closer. 👍🏼
G’day Stu it’s all falling into place it’s looking good ...........regards John. PS have you had a hair cut?
Thanks, and yes. :)
Great video Stu ,you may have some great fishing off the boat once you're artificial reef gets a little bigger, Eddie is great help, never has a bad day, Jeff in LA USA
I don't think I could have done it without Edd. :)
Great intro hahaha
In theory... don't address the centering left/right up/down yet. Get your flanges parallel first. (Maybe separate the flanges by a .010 or .020 inch and use feeler gauges). Next, no matter what, adjust all 4 horizontals or verticals the same amounts to get the port/starboard and THEN the vertical centering. By proof the top and bottom will be the same if both sides match, as you were saying.
Sounds like a good approach. It is already confusing enough without dealing with multiple dimensions at the same time.
Anyone else yell at their screen in the beginning? "Stu that's going to ..... Stu!......STU!!!!" D'oh! lol
Show of hands please: Who did not see that gantry crane gaffe coming?BTW. I came here a couple years ago while troubleshooting a sticky steering cable. That work out well, but I've been stuck here ever since. Can't get enough. Good show Stu!
Thanks mate!
If you add the two gaps together then half it thats the gap alround
Hi stu. Just another comment. ( one amongst heaps no doubt) is it possible to locate your out filter a little,e further to port under the deck. In the old position it’s blocking access somewhat. Just a thought. Your going well with the alignment. Step by step. Take your time . Don’t get stressed. When I’ve done similar jobs I eventually get lost. Engine to the right screw the left screw, or unwind the right? An hour or so an my brain is fried. That’s what you get with old age !
Hey Gary, access is definitely an issue with this engine bay. I'm also planning to add an air compressor which is going to fill my primate access point so I may have to do some serious rearranging soon.
FYI ..When you make your throttle bracket. I saw on Project Brupeg they added a support beam to keep it from flexing and were told not to make it out of aluminum, but stainless steal...
Yes, I saw that too, but I found the perfect piece of thick aluminium and having seen thin aluminium hulls take a pounding for 60 years I'm not buying the work hardening theory when it comes to throttle brackets.
Ah you're only an hr north from me in this video. Inerestingly enough I saw a wagon like yours heading north up the F3 yesterday around Erina area. We went down to Sydney on Saturday to sail on on a cruise for 1st responders (great trip) and I was showing the family where you are when going across the Hawksbury Bridge on the F3.
I wish the truck was mine, I'm still waiting for the repairs I need to get it registered.
Hello from Vancouver Island, Stu if you can't find an adapter for the temp sender you may be able to drill the guts out of the old one and tap it.
Thank you Stu for the videos look forward to the new one every week, I used your tutorials since you started putting them on youtube now this boat build is golden information, so thank you for taking the time to explain everything it really helps people.
You're welcome mate. :)
Port Macquarie entrance is about 5 metres deep at chart datum, there's also a wreck in the middle too apparently. Gotta love online marine charts.
Hope it didnt hit the Red Dwarf, lol Lister would not be happy :P Well Criton Mate you would not have wanted to annoy him , he would call you a sssmmmmmmmmeeeeee a Smmmmmmeeeeee ........ ok ill say it , a smeg head ..lol
Well at least you didnt get hurt thats the main thing :)
Hi Stu. Been watching for quite a while and enjoying your channel. For your alignment may I suggest you get the faces of the couplings aligned first. It doesn’t matter if you’re high or low or off to one side. Just so long as they are true to each other.
Then you adjust your height or side to side alignment. That way you can count your turns on the jacking bolts while maintaining that face alignment. For example if you’re low you wind up all the jacking bolts the same amount of turns and maintain your face alignment. Same for sideways adjustment.
You may need a final tweak for the face but that way you’re only chasing one axis at a time instead of trying to do all three at once.
Edit: Actually you’re trying to chase 4 axes.
Makes sense to me!
While watching had an idea that I used on my lathe for alinement of the chuck and spindle, placed a rod in the chuck and spun a point on it and then brought the spindle up to the chuck so both points meet, any variation is visible. Remove the bushing and turn up 2 plates with a 1inch pin at the centre, make both plates the same diameter as the flanges they will fit on, no need to keep measuring just look. Speaking from experience turn the power switch 90 degrees, if the top cable comes lose, it can catch and spark. Better to have both cables coming from under the deck vertical. Plus where the switches are, air tanks and heavy equipment 😫
Love the vids keep em coming.
I'll definitely take a look at the switches potential to short when I'm out there next.
The 19mm coolant hose: use longer hose with a loop.
First job of the day.......😂😂😂😂😂😂
can you fit an expansion bottle to the heater system, then you don't loose antifreeze in to the bilge, and would be easy to visually check the level without removing the cap.
Been through the port bar twice stu depth wasnt an issue (41' foot sv with a 1.8m draft) but i used my plotter to get close to the optimum line until i could see the alignment markers as either side of the narrow channel there were breaking waves ( 1.5m swell on the way in ) a lot of teeth grinding the first time but as long as you stick close to the line and aviod larger swell on an ebb tide , all good
Good to hear it went well. The sectors are well marked on the charts I have so following them in shouldn't be a bit issue. Just need to time the arrival for the tides and wait for good weather.
Seeing you Wrestling with the engine was very interesting to watch and learn. Thank you!
Stu I can’t believe how far you have come and I’m excited to see it fire up and go out on the open sea. I’m just putting in my new windlass. Very exciting to see your progress every week. See you next time.
Thanks mate, starting to get there now, good luck with the windlass!
I knew Eddie was your only help,
Man's best spotter🐕
as a general rule when drilling metals....the harder the metal, use a slower speed with more pressure (and cutting oil)....for softer metals, use higher speeds and lighter pressure.
As another person who was about to go to bed... Stu you're awesome. Thanks for sharing your project with us :) It's nice to know cool shit is going on all over the world when you're trying to sleep
*I can't believe I call you Steve. Yes it's late
Those rubber engine mounts can be a huge pain in the ass. I have used silicone grease under the mounts to help reduce the friction for fine adjustments in the past. I can't say it was a perfect fix, but it did seem to reduce the distance it jumped on fine-tuning.
Yes, really wishing I'd sprayed everything with silicon first.
Looking Good Stu! What are your plans when project is finished?
Planning to take the boat up north to the Barrier Reef.
Hey Stu did ya win the lottery? I like all the Snap On tools. Great work. Cheers from John in Sooke BC.
I wish! Left overs from when we closed the workshop. Arn and I just divided everything up.
Stu
Grab that bolt out of the bilge stbd side below the polyflex, minute 7:30 in the vid
love your work mate
Yes, I saw that one when editing and installed it this morning.
Don't sweat the hose closing up a little on the ninety degree bend , the inner bores of the brass fittings on both ends are much more restrictive then the slight narrowing of the hose. Plus when pressurized the hose will exspand
Yes, I was thinking pretty much the same thing.
10:49 Love the cable tye to open an almost kinked hose.
Hey stu those isolator switches look like they are at kicking height, they may easily get damaged, we have similar problems with out machines so we put like a U kitchen door handle above it the protect it a bit, might be an idea
I'll definitely consider that. This is where they have been for the last 30 years and they are pretty strong but it is a good idea to protect them.
Hey Stu, I know a guy that has a 471 blower(Reliabuilt Reman) for sale if your interested. I purchased a 871 blower for our MCI bus from him. Let me know. Great videos!!!!!!!
Appreciate letting me know but I've had mine rebuilt and also have a spare. :)
@@DangarMarine That's cool. I ran across it and thought about you. If I run across anything else I will keep you in mind.
Admirable patience displayed throughout this project, however it only highlights Johnny's shortcomings. First hiccup hide the sledgehammer.
Did you notice he said I left my spanner the wrong side and was on film reaching for a large hammer😁
Hey Stu, get a 3/4 Z hose for a perfect 90 degree bend, easy to get as well.
Hi Stu, like you said tough to align by yourself and not allot of room for two people down there. You are really close though. Your plan on moving the prop should give you the room though without dry docking to finish the alignment but what I have seen so far. Once it's set is there a recommended torque sequence and torque? I finally go a new editing software for my channel and just testing it currently. Love it so far
Hey Tim, once it is all aligned I would just torque it very similar to car wheel nuts.
Are you going to bar the motor by hand to turn the prop?
Have you considered a live cam for the chickens? Also eddie looks fantastic!
I have actually. :)
You could get a 1/2 inch NPT pipe plug then drill and tap it to fit that temperature sending unit.
Yes, that is exactly what I ended up buying.
Have you thought be using an expansion tank for the cooling system overflow like a car? It could then suck in this excess when it cools.
Yes, will add once everthing else is done.