There's not another channel that I have watched every single video on like this one, and I've never even sailed on a sailboat. I love the journey you've taken us on throughout the years. Thank you Steve and team for the hours upon hours of content you've given us over the years.
i agree with this 100%. the closest I've been to a boat is feeding the ducks at the jetties as a child (bar ferry crossings). But watching this start from a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard, grow into this combination of skill, art, talent and shear beauty has been incredible.
@@Rob13252 "a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard" This is where I started watching too. From the CBS clip I saw the other morning it sounds like it was the 'Big Break' they had on viewers.
Just a tip with hose clamps: Alternate the screws 180 degrees apart from one another. If the forward clamp's screw is on the starboard, put the aft clamp's screw on the port. This will minimize the chance of any trickle making its way through. It certainly isn't a big issue with low pressures like at the packing gland, but it's always a good practice. Cheers and thanks for another great video!
I have seen many instances of people making the cutlass bearing an interference fit. It only gets tighter over time and becomes a nightmare to change. I would recommend a slide fit (as you had) and stop the bearing rotating using grub screws. The way you have done it, if the epoxy fails the bearing will rotate and not only goose the bearing but also the housing. Yours Aye, Buster.
Ben, your tongue-in-cheek labels for Steve are the icing on the cake of your awesome video production skills. Keep up the great work! (You too Steve) :)
After multiple attempts to get the Patreon site to accept my credit card for a monthly donation, I gave up and sent a one-time donation. I will continue trying to make a monthly gift. I continue to be impressed with your work and energy to bring Arabella to the water. Keep up your great work.
I used to install prop shafts on narrow boat’s in the UK and can tell you it’s not an easy task to get right, I think you got it right, above and beyond I would say, you won’t be sinking any time soon 👍
Steve TIP : for you for the sky light hatch. 🤔🤔Have a UV resistant acrylic cover / lid vacuum thermoformed 1" inch higher than the frame. Attach two stainless steel handles on each side on top use O-rings to seal and cushion around the screws. If made right. 🤞🤞This should fit over the sky light frame tightly no screws or glue needed. 👉👉May need to round the corners of the wood frame slightly. This will keep rain and spray off the sky light hatch and still shows off the wood frame.❓❓If it needs to be secured on for heavy weather. Drill two holes on the sides for two thumb screws and wood nut inserts in the frame.
I finally found something I can give some advice on. I was always taught to oppose the screws on worm clamps by 180° when they’re doubled up since each one doesn’t give exact 360° pressure.
A simple suggestion - no matter how you solve the forward hatch drainage - build or procure a lightweight, low profile cover for the hatch cover. This can be put in place whenever the front hatch light is not needed and will greatly extend the life of your custom-made hatch by keeping both water and UV light iff of it.
in "ten years" add slight pitch to the acrilic. It is some what flexable. Add small tubing in the wood trim on the edges for drainage. Great work, can't wait to see you sailing with your family.
Good morning Arabella crew and fans! The coffee is delicious and the entertainment is on par. Missing seeing KP on the job. Get better soon KP. And Steve I continue to pray for your mother. I really want to see her take that first ride with you. That would be such a monumental event. Hold tight Momma,Steve is working as fast and carefully as he can.💓💓💓
Hey Steve, nice job as always. A little tip: (maybe someone already said this) The double hose-clamps on your rubber hose that seals the shaft should be in opposite directions around the hose. Put the screws on the two hose clamps on opposite sides of the hose with both of the screws facing up. That way the seal is a little better since they are not squishing the same part of the hose.
Lovely to see the combination of Dolfinite & anti-fouling paint coming back into play again - that deep red, and the peanut butter texture always say "something's going to be attached in final position" for me! Best wishes to all there - I hope KP's feeling better, their presence in the episodes is missed; and that Steve & family are feeling the love of the whole project's fanbase.
A2A has been a part of my life since March 23, 2016 when I subscribed and I have been watching religiously since. Good work on the prop shaft and bearings, Steve!!!
Hi Steve and crew. 2 suggestions (I'm sure you already know)... don't get too hung up on shaft alignment until after you're in the water, you'll have to redo it once the boat sits for a few days. And for the water trap on the hatch, you could simply hang a piece of wicking material of the edge. You'll be surprised how quickly if will drain any standing water.
Wow, Steve, you've come come so far since the keel pour... You've probably thought of this but if not, don't forget to waterproof the crap out of that prop shaft bulge area for drippies and keep some spare hose clamps nearby for emergencies. Having spare hose clamps and bungs near EVERY water inlet is always a good idea incase something fails. Awesome show!
Happy Friday, A2A crew! That smooth slide at the end. Nice. I could feel it from here. Best practice is to offset the rotation of your hose clamps. But I suspect that the guys who do your engine alignment will tell you that... and of course, this installation was just temporary for the test and for the video. "It would have to be a pretty big wave." Oh, you sweet summer child.
The level of engineering and attention to detail and quality continues to astound me regarding this project. And that's coming from an Engineer! Also Stephen's ability to look forward and schedule the project is amazing. And although that might be a function of UA-cam video editing, that detailed mindset does shine through. I've watched every episode for years, and even inspired me to take to pilgrimage to visit the project. And each episode I'm more inspired and impressed at what Stephen has accomplished. Cheers my friend!!
Steve- your determination to get up every day and push forward with the project despite your personal situation with your mum is truly inspirational. Keep up the good work mate, everyone is behind you.
In supporting you and the build...over the years I have purchased different 'T' shirts.....with my main goal of buying one of your pens......but at $85usd + shipping + exchange + my greedy government taxes it works out in my money at almost 3 times the price...but when you put up the request for the final push to get Arabella into the water...I said..."now or never". I bit the bullet and bought the Locust pen.....I got it 2 days ago.....what a beautiful bit of 'kit'.....A very heavy, well operating pen...it feels good in your hand.....so I want to thank you for the [second] most expensive pen I own.....(the first being a Mont Blanc my late brother gave me prior to his passing) ....I now have something of this series that will last well after you are sailing to New Zealand and the South Pacific Islands.
As Melville said: “A whale ship was my Yale college and my Harvard”. This series has been a great education for me, all from the comfort of my couch. I can only imagine what it’s been to you and your team, from the first felled tree until now, and to the eduction that awaits you-and us-in sailing, navigation, upkeep, and travel.
I totally understand when you said I totally needed this win. Dealing with having cancer having small wins helps with offsetting all the stress and worry of the everyday trials of dealing with having cancer or worrying about someone you love having to deal with all that comes with living with fighting this battle. My wife and I are keeping your mom and you in our daily prayers 🙏 and our 💕 hearts. God bless you and your mom,may God surround you both with his loving grace. We have asked that our entire congregation of over 2000 souls keep your mom and you in thier daily prayers for healing and strength as you travel on this journey. Love and hugs from us to you for being such a loving son.
I am continually flabbergasted by how building a wooden sailboat of this size takes utter concentration and forethought on the details. OBTW your team must have an impressive library on boat building and related topics,
Yup, between all of us there might be a maritime library. As for planning: every decision affects a few others, making some options impossible, definite, or complex. -Anne
*- Having zero nautical experience, this Packing Gland system design {**29:42**} is what I wanted to understand back years ago when I was first asking you about using Lignum Vitae for your Prop Bearing to get longevity between service interval, Steve. AND now you are there !* *- I have been waiting for this...and now... Wow ! ! ! Hurrah.* *- I am so happy for you. Congratulations.*
Lignum vitae is an interesting material more for bearing than for packing glands, and has been used to make HUGE cutlass bearings for things like tugboats. www.proboat.com/professional-boatbuilder-issue-no-166/ Enjoy! -Anne
@@AcornToArabella . *- Yes, Agreed, Anne. Thank you for your kind reply.* *- Steve would recognize I was linking the packing gland with a time two years ago.* *- Back then I was concerned with fighting the rudder doing a bearing change far away from a port, or locating a bearing matching the sleve that Steve finally selected.* *- I knew Lignum Vatae would outlast the boat and not have a longevity issue.* *- That is why I encouraged him toward a contact of mine who does Lignum Vitae bearings for submarines and other such commercial vessles who knew of Steve's striving and would have given him the wood to fabricate the pads for $150.* *- {At the time I was dumbfounded and wondering how packing glands work to keep the sea out}* *- Now I understand how the rudder's set-up will allow for an easy & quick bearing change.* *- Keeping an extra bearing on on board and the easy way the rudder is now designed to support such changes makes moot the bearing longevity problem, which Lignum Vitae can solve.*
I’ve been waiting for this day. I learned about this channel from a news story that I saw on tv on October 16th. The next day, I started watching from the very beginning and after a lot of binging, I finally caught up to present time. I love everything that this build is about and I’m here for the voyage.
Con grats on your TV interview. I hope when you splash your boat, please don't change your mind and go golfing. The WORLD AWAITS YOUR VISIT! GOD Bless!
Nice job on getting the shaft bearing housings installed! A tip that I recommend to all of my clients is to use non perforated hose clamps, such as the Awab or Scandvick clamps. They are far stronger and provide even clamping pressure all the way around the hose. I've used them exclusively on my boats for years. You can get them from Defender
Some people in the comments here have suggested that those never rust. Haha I think you and I know better. They may last a little longer but everything’s subject to salt water’s ways. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella True like any stainless they can rust. They are however much stronger, apply even pressure around the hose and are less susceptible to corrosion,
Good morning Steve. As you were describing the steps you were taking to smooth out the finish on the house top, I could not help but think about paraphrasing what a very smart and talented shipwright once opined. "You're not finishing a piano." Nonetheless, I understand that while no one else in the world might ever notice the miniscule imperfections, you will, and that's really all that matters. You are the consummate craftsman.
Great job! The hose clamps on the stuffing block should be changed so each pair is 180° offset. This way the rubber can’t “bunch” under the tightening screw.
The cutlass bearing on my Catalina 30 was held in place in the shaft tube fitting with a set screw that jammed it in place. It never moved unless I loosened the set screw to slide out the bearing. The bearing was a pretty tight/close fit in the sleeve without the set screw, so a lot of tightening on the screw was not needed and was avoided.
Acrylik becomes flexible at 110 °C and one can form a nice slightly curve to get the water off and if using 12 or 15mm you can use screws from below without any break through to hold it down into the sealant… Great progress!
for the water trap you created, just put a weep hole though the side of the cherry outside so it can drain the window part. that way it turns from a water trap to a sort of water trap. :)
You may want to consider the non-perforated hose clamps for you stuffing box. They cost more but do not mar your rubber tube and they are stronger. These will develop surface corrosion.
@@AcornToArabella Just saying don't cheap out on the hose clamps, get the non-perforated ones. They are desired in this type of application on the stuffing box.
I’d strongly recommend a positive mechanical retention for your slightly loose-fit cutlass bearing, a grub screw or two is pretty normal. We normally insert cutlasses with a smear of run-of-the-mill Sikaflex whatever grade, nothing special or clever, it doesn’t need to be a terribly strong bond because it’s got a huge surface area in contact. In fact it just makes it more of a pain to change if you make an unnecessarily strong bond, The sort of fit that yours has isn’t at all unusual. Just fyi, wear tends to accumulate more in the lower quadrant of a cutlass bearing due to the mass of the shaft and prop bearing on it, so bear that in mind when you’re checking for play down the track. Hope that’s helpful! Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
“There are no tight hatches,only tight hatch covers” Herreshoff. This is something every wooden boat owner has to learn for himself but a firehose is very instructive before going to sea.
BTW: I just became a (minor) Patreon supporter. Because of the timeline I elected to pre-pay for the year. The signup was painless and it's literally the least we can do for this insane project.
Hi all. As ever, thanks A2A for continuing sharing the videos of the planning and tree-felling onward. Haha, Not that kind of boring Yes, as others are also pleading, please implement a solution now to avoid a that top-side water trap. Small diameter drilled horizontal drain holes or channels in the trim that Glen and Sarah made, or use different approach. Maybe simply leave the top of the transparent acrylic the highest area and as a flush surface to not trap water. Tell us if you truly want the water trap for getting samples of the overnight rain or sea splash. Continue the awesomeness. Thanks for the several recent informative explanatory videos laying out the time line. Each week is a new treasure and always a delight to watch. You are every bit the consumate teacher, with your boat the current project and the world as the classroom, and all who view can be the well-taught students.
Perhaps you could drill and install a small brass tube, or two, in the lip of the hatch cover to drain any standing water. You can see a similar approach in residential window sill drains.
Dear Steve D. and team. 👍👌👏 Extremely impressive again! The special made boring tool is relatively simple, very effective and therefore really, really ingenious! Every time I watch this great series I learn at least one but mostly several new things. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards, luck and especially health to all of you.
For the lexan hatch under the dinghy, just fill in the space with another sheet of lexan which butts up against the cherry trim and silicone caulk the joint. Then the water will be able to run off over the cherry edge. With judicious use of lexan solvent, it is possible to glue the top sheet of lexan to the bottom one and it will all remain transparent. That way no water can become trapped between the layers of lexan.
You can put some drain holes under that cherry trim for those glass trim pieces instead of having them just collect water. The cabin house i looking great that thing has been build well. Getting the propeller shaft and cutlass bearing all aligned is a great milestone thank God you have a good man like Joe along for the ride. Sure does makes things a little easier that's for sur
Acrylic is pretty easy to shape, in a heat box, you could slightly dome the "water trap hatch" say 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the centerline axis and use the same drain corner idea use on the hatch just aft.
Dude, seeing the trim on the house top, what a thing of beauty you guys are putting together. I don't even know why, but seeing the trim just made me picture the finished product. Apparenlty for me trim is "keel pour 2.0"
What if you infill the water trap with another layer of acrylic sealed around the edges of the frame? Still see through but no pool. Or a single thicker piece with the edges rabbetted matching the thickness of the frame.
Steve may I suggest putting some groves on the underside of that trim that creates a water trap? 3 groves on each side would give the water somewhere to go.
Gotta put on extra layers of clothes at night when the temp dips into the upper 60's... don't know how you can actually work in that continuously cold environment. Good onya! Keep up the good work, y'all. Aloha
Steve, please replace those automotive type hose clamps with proper non-perforated ones (AWAB is a very good one) Also, it is best practice to put the tightening screws 180 degrees apart. In our 14 year world circumnavigation we learned the hard way. Great progress! Best wishes.
Hamilton Marine supplies their stuffing boxes with these, and they’re good for now. Thanks for sharing your experience, mine have always had this type. -Anne
Hey, I'm getting god at this . Watch enough boat building and machinery videos that when you said, "Joe, what do you have there".... I guessed boring bar. Whooo hoo!!
Homemade line boring setup. Joe is a genius.
There's not another channel that I have watched every single video on like this one, and I've never even sailed on a sailboat. I love the journey you've taken us on throughout the years. Thank you Steve and team for the hours upon hours of content you've given us over the years.
I absolutely agree with your sentiments. I have watched for quite a long time and have enjoyed every minute!
i agree with this 100%. the closest I've been to a boat is feeding the ducks at the jetties as a child (bar ferry crossings). But watching this start from a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard, grow into this combination of skill, art, talent and shear beauty has been incredible.
@@Rob13252 "a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard" This is where I started watching too. From the CBS clip I saw the other morning it sounds like it was the 'Big Break' they had on viewers.
I don't even like boats and I've watched since the keel pour and went back to the beginning to binge up to that point.
I feel the same this channel and sv seeker you get to see both sides of the spectrum wooden sailboat and metal Chinese junker
Just a tip with hose clamps: Alternate the screws 180 degrees apart from one another. If the forward clamp's screw is on the starboard, put the aft clamp's screw on the port. This will minimize the chance of any trickle making its way through. It certainly isn't a big issue with low pressures like at the packing gland, but it's always a good practice.
Cheers and thanks for another great video!
Everything takes longer in the colder weather! Roll on Summer!!!
I have seen many instances of people making the cutlass bearing an interference fit. It only gets tighter over time and becomes a nightmare to change. I would recommend a slide fit (as you had) and stop the bearing rotating using grub screws. The way you have done it, if the epoxy fails the bearing will rotate and not only goose the bearing but also the housing. Yours Aye, Buster.
Keep chipping away Steve.
Little victories.
You’re doing a terrific job.
Ben, your tongue-in-cheek labels for Steve are the icing on the cake of your awesome video production skills. Keep up the great work! (You too Steve) :)
After multiple attempts to get the Patreon site to accept my credit card for a monthly donation, I gave up and sent a one-time donation. I will continue trying to make a monthly gift. I continue to be impressed with your work and energy to bring Arabella to the water. Keep up your great work.
Thank you for your support, David! Sorry you met friction there.
Using PayPal works for me.
Such a useful and civilized insight into how hard, long and rewarding it is to do a proper job.
I used to install prop shafts on narrow boat’s in the UK and can tell you it’s not an easy task to get right, I think you got it right, above and beyond I would say, you won’t be sinking any time soon 👍
Those are sooooo cool, Steven!! -Anne
Quality !
That sigh of relief will go down in Arabella lore.
Steve TIP : for you for the sky light hatch. 🤔🤔Have a UV resistant acrylic cover / lid vacuum thermoformed 1" inch higher than the frame. Attach two stainless steel handles on each side on top use O-rings to seal and cushion around the screws. If made right. 🤞🤞This should fit over the sky light frame tightly no screws or glue needed. 👉👉May need to round the corners of the wood frame slightly. This will keep rain and spray off the sky light hatch and still shows off the wood frame.❓❓If it needs to be secured on for heavy weather. Drill two holes on the sides for two thumb screws and wood nut inserts in the frame.
I finally found something I can give some advice on. I was always taught to oppose the screws on worm clamps by 180° when they’re doubled up since each one doesn’t give exact 360° pressure.
👍
A victory for Steve is a victory for all! Well done, Sir, congratulations!!
Cheers and happy Friday, Charles!
Thanks Steve for answering every question that came into my mind during that episode
Next week’s job title: MIND READER. 😊
A simple suggestion - no matter how you solve the forward hatch drainage - build or procure a lightweight, low profile cover for the hatch cover. This can be put in place whenever the front hatch light is not needed and will greatly extend the life of your custom-made hatch by keeping both water and UV light iff of it.
Agree…the water trap will leak in a few months.
in "ten years" add slight pitch to the acrilic. It is some what flexable. Add small tubing in the wood trim on the edges for drainage. Great work, can't wait to see you sailing with your family.
love the fact you use old tools when you can.
They’re wonderful.
Good morning Arabella crew and fans! The coffee is delicious and the entertainment is on par. Missing seeing KP on the job. Get better soon KP. And Steve I continue to pray for your mother. I really want to see her take that first ride with you. That would be such a monumental event. Hold tight Momma,Steve is working as fast and carefully as he can.💓💓💓
Happy Friday, Kathy!
Wonderful words.🥰 Thanks from one of the fans🤗
Hey Steve, nice job as always.
A little tip: (maybe someone already said this) The double hose-clamps on your rubber hose that seals the shaft should be in opposite directions around the hose. Put the screws on the two hose clamps on opposite sides of the hose with both of the screws facing up. That way the seal is a little better since they are not squishing the same part of the hose.
Lovely to see the combination of Dolfinite & anti-fouling paint coming back into play again - that deep red, and the peanut butter texture always say "something's going to be attached in final position" for me!
Best wishes to all there - I hope KP's feeling better, their presence in the episodes is missed; and that Steve & family are feeling the love of the whole project's fanbase.
A2A has been a part of my life since March 23, 2016 when I subscribed and I have been watching religiously since. Good work on the prop shaft and bearings, Steve!!!
Glad you’re on the journey with us!
Old heads and experience are a wonderful resource to have in your tool box, go get' em Joe. Greetings from down under
"Tooooooo complicated." I love it! Joe says it succinctly.
He’s good at succinct!
Hi Steve and crew. 2 suggestions (I'm sure you already know)... don't get too hung up on shaft alignment until after you're in the water, you'll have to redo it once the boat sits for a few days. And for the water trap on the hatch, you could simply hang a piece of wicking material of the edge. You'll be surprised how quickly if will drain any standing water.
Or use thicker acrylic for the hatch and rabbet the trim into it.
That’s a great tip!
Wow, Steve, you've come come so far since the keel pour... You've probably thought of this but if not, don't forget to waterproof the crap out of that prop shaft bulge area for drippies and keep some spare hose clamps nearby for emergencies. Having spare hose clamps and bungs near EVERY water inlet is always a good idea incase something fails. Awesome show!
I like keeping my extra hose clamps in one extremely dry location. -Anne
Happy Friday, A2A crew!
That smooth slide at the end. Nice. I could feel it from here. Best practice is to offset the rotation of your hose clamps. But I suspect that the guys who do your engine alignment will tell you that... and of course, this installation was just temporary for the test and for the video.
"It would have to be a pretty big wave."
Oh, you sweet summer child.
Happy Friday, Paul.
The level of engineering and attention to detail and quality continues to astound me regarding this project. And that's coming from an Engineer! Also Stephen's ability to look forward and schedule the project is amazing. And although that might be a function of UA-cam video editing, that detailed mindset does shine through. I've watched every episode for years, and even inspired me to take to pilgrimage to visit the project. And each episode I'm more inspired and impressed at what Stephen has accomplished. Cheers my friend!!
Thanks for being here, Mike!
Great video! I got another A2A T-shirt in the mail this week and it’s none too soon as Spring is on the horizon!
Steve- your determination to get up every day and push forward with the project despite your personal situation with your mum is truly inspirational. Keep up the good work mate, everyone is behind you.
Winner , winner , chicken dinner! Great problem solving!
"Because, by the time we did it like we did it the other time, just the set up part, we'd be done this way.". Makes logical sense to me!
Chipped tooth in thicknesser… anyone else spot it? Awesome video, thanks
👍
In supporting you and the build...over the years I have purchased different 'T' shirts.....with my main goal of buying one of your pens......but at $85usd + shipping + exchange + my greedy government taxes it works out in my money at almost 3 times the price...but when you put up the request for the final push to get Arabella into the water...I said..."now or never". I bit the bullet and bought the Locust pen.....I got it 2 days ago.....what a beautiful bit of 'kit'.....A very heavy, well operating pen...it feels good in your hand.....so I want to thank you for the [second] most expensive pen I own.....(the first being a Mont Blanc my late brother gave me prior to his passing) ....I now have something of this series that will last well after you are sailing to New Zealand and the South Pacific Islands.
So glad you’re enjoying your pen, and we really appreciate your support!!
PHEW! I was holding my breath while you worked on getting that shaft to align properly. Your efforts should now give you years of reliable service.
As Melville said: “A whale ship was my Yale college and my Harvard”. This series has been a great education for me, all from the comfort of my couch. I can only imagine what it’s been to you and your team, from the first felled tree until now, and to the eduction that awaits you-and us-in sailing, navigation, upkeep, and travel.
Cheers, Frederick!
I totally understand when you said I totally needed this win. Dealing with having cancer having small wins helps with offsetting all the stress and worry of the everyday trials of dealing with having cancer or worrying about someone you love having to deal with all that comes with living with fighting this battle.
My wife and I are keeping your mom and you in our daily prayers 🙏 and our 💕 hearts. God bless you and your mom,may God surround you both with his loving grace. We have asked that our entire congregation of over 2000 souls keep your mom and you in thier daily prayers for healing and strength as you travel on this journey. Love and hugs from us to you for being such a loving son.
I am continually flabbergasted by how building a wooden sailboat of this size takes utter concentration and forethought on the details. OBTW your team must have an impressive library on boat building and related topics,
Yup, between all of us there might be a maritime library. As for planning: every decision affects a few others, making some options impossible, definite, or complex. -Anne
Sharp corners on boat decks suck for toes. A nice detail on your housetop hatches would be to round off the corners of the miter joints.
👍
*- Having zero nautical experience, this Packing Gland system design {**29:42**} is what I wanted to understand back years ago when I was first asking you about using Lignum Vitae for your Prop Bearing to get longevity between service interval, Steve. AND now you are there !*
*- I have been waiting for this...and now... Wow ! ! ! Hurrah.*
*- I am so happy for you. Congratulations.*
Lignum vitae is an interesting material more for bearing than for packing glands, and has been used to make HUGE cutlass bearings for things like tugboats. www.proboat.com/professional-boatbuilder-issue-no-166/ Enjoy! -Anne
@@AcornToArabella .
*- Yes, Agreed, Anne. Thank you for your kind reply.*
*- Steve would recognize I was linking the packing gland with a time two years ago.*
*- Back then I was concerned with fighting the rudder doing a bearing change far away from a port, or locating a bearing matching the sleve that Steve finally selected.*
*- I knew Lignum Vatae would outlast the boat and not have a longevity issue.*
*- That is why I encouraged him toward a contact of mine who does Lignum Vitae bearings for submarines and other such commercial vessles who knew of Steve's striving and would have given him the wood to fabricate the pads for $150.*
*- {At the time I was dumbfounded and wondering how packing glands work to keep the sea out}*
*- Now I understand how the rudder's set-up will allow for an easy & quick bearing change.*
*- Keeping an extra bearing on on board and the easy way the rudder is now designed to support such changes makes moot the bearing longevity problem, which Lignum Vitae can solve.*
I’ve been waiting for this day.
I learned about this channel from a news story that I saw on tv on October 16th.
The next day, I started watching from the very beginning and after a lot of binging, I finally caught up to present time.
I love everything that this build is about and I’m here for the voyage.
Thank you, Matthew! We’re glad you’re here.
Con grats on your TV interview. I hope when you splash your boat, please don't change your mind and go golfing. The WORLD AWAITS YOUR VISIT! GOD Bless!
Ha! Not likely. Thank you!
Excellent problem-solving and craftsmanship!
Cheers!
I like the way you approach difficult stuff. No hesitation, just do it.
🙌
Nice job on getting the shaft bearing housings installed! A tip that I recommend to all of my clients is to use non perforated hose clamps, such as the Awab or Scandvick clamps. They are far stronger and provide even clamping pressure all the way around the hose. I've used them exclusively on my boats for years. You can get them from Defender
Some people in the comments here have suggested that those never rust. Haha I think you and I know better. They may last a little longer but everything’s subject to salt water’s ways. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella True like any stainless they can rust. They are however much stronger, apply even pressure around the hose and are less susceptible to corrosion,
Good morning Steve. As you were describing the steps you were taking to smooth out the finish on the house top, I could not help but think about paraphrasing what a very smart and talented shipwright once opined. "You're not finishing a piano." Nonetheless, I understand that while no one else in the world might ever notice the miniscule imperfections, you will, and that's really all that matters. You are the consummate craftsman.
On the other hand, the cabin top is going to have an awful lot of eyeball time on it, once the flaws are seen they cant be unseen etc.
The innovation always amazes me.
Well shucks, thank you, Andrew!
Big LOVE for your attention to details,Sir.
Great job! The hose clamps on the stuffing block should be changed so each pair is 180° offset. This way the rubber can’t “bunch” under the tightening screw.
What a satisfying sound as that sleeve was hammered in! Lovely the way it rose in pitch with each stroke!
Nice job on getting the propellor shaft aligned. Joe the Machinist to the rescue again
The cutlass bearing on my Catalina 30 was held in place in the shaft tube fitting with a set screw that jammed it in place. It never moved unless I loosened the set screw to slide out the bearing. The bearing was a pretty tight/close fit in the sleeve without the set screw, so a lot of tightening on the screw was not needed and was avoided.
GADS! What an alignment procedure!
Acrylik becomes flexible at 110 °C and one can form a nice slightly curve to get the water off and if using 12 or 15mm you can use screws from below without any break through to hold it down into the sealant… Great progress!
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for the water trap you created, just put a weep hole though the side of the cherry outside so it can drain the window part. that way it turns from a water trap to a sort of water trap. :)
One of the few times when the 16ths and 32nds really matter
True!
!3:20 You could create a groove on the underside of the miters to make a weep hole to allow drainage.
Not that kind of boring... :D Steve's job title in the credits after every episode is a little gem :D
Brilliant transition at the beginning from grayscale to color with Steve appearing over his audio.
You may want to consider the non-perforated hose clamps for you stuffing box. They cost more but do not mar your rubber tube and they are stronger. These will develop surface corrosion.
Pretty much all hose clamps of any kind do.
@@AcornToArabella Just saying don't cheap out on the hose clamps, get the non-perforated ones. They are desired in this type of application on the stuffing box.
I’d strongly recommend a positive mechanical retention for your slightly loose-fit cutlass bearing, a grub screw or two is pretty normal.
We normally insert cutlasses with a smear of run-of-the-mill Sikaflex whatever grade, nothing special or clever, it doesn’t need to be a terribly strong bond because it’s got a huge surface area in contact. In fact it just makes it more of a pain to change if you make an unnecessarily strong bond,
The sort of fit that yours has isn’t at all unusual.
Just fyi, wear tends to accumulate more in the lower quadrant of a cutlass bearing due to the mass of the shaft and prop bearing on it, so bear that in mind when you’re checking for play down the track.
Hope that’s helpful!
Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
🙌
100% agree on putting in a couple of set screws. It is a little late now, but do it when the cutless bearing wears out.
Other option is to knurl the inside of the bracket to make a tighter press fit as well
So glad you got the win!
🙌🎉
I remember my time visiting the boat and helping out years ago. I helped clean the bronze shaft mount and it's nice to see it being installed.
Cheers, David!
I can imagine how you feel at that fiew at the end, when everything fits and is tightened. Best wishes to all of you!
🙌
Don't you love it when a plan comes together? Great job!
"The Chasm"!! Sounds like the Grand Canyon or something as impressive! 🙂
The tangible relief at the end… clearly some big challenges going on at present. Kia kaha Steve.
Greetings from a sunny Bedfordshire.
Happy Friday, Nick!
“There are no tight hatches,only tight hatch covers” Herreshoff. This is something every wooden boat owner has to learn for himself but a firehose is very instructive before going to sea.
The cabin house looks awesome!
Thanks, Ross!
Good Morning from Sandwich, MA
Hey there, Bud! Happy Friday.
like the art workers of tom sachs, it feels like you take the same reverence to this boat
BTW: I just became a (minor) Patreon supporter. Because of the timeline I elected to pre-pay for the year. The signup was painless and it's literally the least we can do for this insane project.
Thank you so much, Matthew!!
Hi all. As ever, thanks A2A for continuing sharing the videos of the planning and tree-felling onward.
Haha, Not that kind of boring
Yes, as others are also pleading, please implement a solution now to avoid a that top-side water trap. Small diameter drilled horizontal drain holes or channels in the trim that Glen and Sarah made, or use different approach. Maybe simply leave the top of the transparent acrylic the highest area and as a flush surface to not trap water. Tell us if you truly want the water trap for getting samples of the overnight rain or sea splash.
Continue the awesomeness. Thanks for the several recent informative explanatory videos laying out the time line. Each week is a new treasure and always a delight to watch. You are every bit the consumate teacher, with your boat the current project and the world as the classroom, and all who view can be the well-taught students.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
Perhaps you could drill and install a small brass tube, or two, in the lip of the hatch cover to drain any standing water. You can see a similar approach in residential window sill drains.
Dear Steve D. and team.
👍👌👏 Extremely impressive again! The special made boring tool is relatively simple, very effective and therefore really, really ingenious! Every time I watch this great series I learn at least one but mostly several new things. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all of you.
Thanks!
For the lexan hatch under the dinghy, just fill in the space with another sheet of lexan which butts up against the cherry trim and silicone caulk the joint. Then the water will be able to run off over the cherry edge. With judicious use of lexan solvent, it is possible to glue the top sheet of lexan to the bottom one and it will all remain transparent. That way no water can become trapped between the layers of lexan.
It’s funny with you in the hatch explaining the water trap you get a great perspective of how big Arabella is
Nice Job Steve! Praying for your mom!
Boss level this week for you man. And you got the win. Way to go eh.
🙌
You can put some drain holes under that cherry trim for those glass trim pieces instead of having them just collect water. The cabin house i looking great that thing has been build well. Getting the propeller shaft and cutlass bearing all aligned is a great milestone thank God you have a good man like Joe along for the ride. Sure does makes things a little easier that's for sur
Joe is great!
That was complicated. Looking good.
Good evening again from down under.
Happy Friday! Height of summer for you, eh? Enjoy!
What an expert who came, just at the right time, and had a practical solution.
Cherry is such a pleasant wood to work with.
Acrylic is pretty easy to shape, in a heat box, you could slightly dome the "water trap hatch" say 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the centerline axis and use the same drain corner idea use on the hatch just aft.
So satisfying to see the shaft hardware completed. Put a big checkmark next to that one on the work list.
Feels great!
NIce job and all the better for good explations. Thanks guys
Very cool seeing that precision work and it being a win for you. 👍
Dude, seeing the trim on the house top, what a thing of beauty you guys are putting together. I don't even know why, but seeing the trim just made me picture the finished product. Apparenlty for me trim is "keel pour 2.0"
😁
Definitely not boring! Satisfying, so pleased for you to get this win, Stephen!
The wins come when you need them! Well done! Joe is such a treasure.
🙌he is!
What if you infill the water trap with another layer of acrylic sealed around the edges of the frame? Still see through but no pool. Or a single thicker piece with the edges rabbetted matching the thickness of the frame.
That was my thought. Rabbit a 3/4” piece of acrylic with some Sikaflex.
Same thought here. Additionally you get the benefit of having an even thicker piece of acrylic between you and the weather outside!
My thought, curve the acrylic to match the cabin top?
Steve may I suggest putting some groves on the underside of that trim that creates a water trap? 3 groves on each side would give the water somewhere to go.
Gotta put on extra layers of clothes at night when the temp dips into the upper 60's... don't know how you can actually work in that continuously cold environment. Good onya! Keep up the good work, y'all. Aloha
Mahalo for watching!
Good job Steve. Getting close now. The boat looks great! 👍
Steve, please replace those automotive type hose clamps with proper non-perforated ones (AWAB is a very good one) Also, it is best practice to put the tightening screws 180 degrees apart. In our 14 year world circumnavigation we learned the hard way. Great progress! Best wishes.
Hamilton Marine supplies their stuffing boxes with these, and they’re good for now. Thanks for sharing your experience, mine have always had this type. -Anne
Another most excellent video Team Arabella. Looking amazing.
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In the future please use a pusher while working with the table saw. Even experienced wood working folks can encounter errors.
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A creative solution indeed.
Hey, I'm getting god at this . Watch enough boat building and machinery videos that when you said, "Joe, what do you have there".... I guessed boring bar. Whooo hoo!!
Wheee!