5 Biggest Mistakes Restoring Furniture
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Bethany from Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration shares the 5 BIGGEST MISTAKES when it comes to restoring and painting antique/vintage furniture.
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I have been a professional restorer for 30 years.
This is rock solid advice.
& I still make mistakes too.
So don’t be afraid.
Those who don’t make mistakes, aren’t doing anything.
& yes, rule # 1 have fun.
You can’t wreck anything so bad, it can’t be fixed.
I love your comment! Thank you for watching!
We just did an antique, walnut, dresser, this summer, that had NINE coats of paint, one in which they'd covered the entire thing in pink glitter...GLITTER! I honestly think the glue was helping to hold the prior coats together, but they put three more layers on that. I'm amazed it didn't crack more. It's so sad, when people disrespect a lovely piece, like that.
Wow, that’s insane. I’ve never heard of a piece of furniture having nine coats of paint on it. Bless you for getting that all off. I can only imagine the elbow grease that went into that.
thanks for the shellac/painting tip and the weather warning, definitely good tips
You are so welcome!
Great video!! Thank you for the tips! 😊
Thank you so much! Your channel has been such a big help🤗💕
LaceyAlexa HowManyHamsters?! I’m so glad you found this video helpful and you left a comment. 😊 Thank you!
Really good tips. I m new to furniture refinishing and watched a bunch of videos, but prepping is essential. Not fun, but basically step #1 in the process. Thank you for making this basic tutorial. Looking forward to others . Thanks
Genna25 Prepping is definitely key to ensure your project turns out successful. If my business was bigger I’d hire someone to do the prep work haha! That’s how much I don’t like it but it’s just part of the process. It’s nice to hear feedback that this video was helpful so thank you for stopping by and leaving a nice comment. 😁
Thank you ever so much! Great advice! I’m getting ready to restore my Dad’s antique gentleman’s dresser & I forgot about practicing first!! Shew!!😅. Can’t wait to watch more of your tutorials!! Cherie
Hi Cherie! I’m so glad you found this video helpful! Best of luck restoring your dad’s antique dresser! If you get stuck or need further guidance reach out. I’m happy to help!
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience. I'm usually just building pieces, I've found myself all of a sudden restoring pieces for people, trial and error and mistakes all day long. Good to hear it's still a fact of life for someone doing it for a long while.
rettbergrealestate Oh yeah Miss Mistakes McGee over here! Ha! I’m constantly trying to learn new skills, new ways of blending paint and using new products. As you can imagine with all that comes a learning curve filled with mistakes but that’s how you learn what works and what doesn’t. I’d love to learn more about building furniture. I bought my first miter saw not too long ago and my goal is to have a full workshop with power tools and start building furniture as well. I admire people like yourself that build.
YOU are an amazing artist and teacher!! Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge, it is so appreciated you just can't begin to know how much!! I have not refinished furniture yet, but have watched other yube tubers do it, and doing a half-assed job. Seems money is more important to them. I have a love of all things wood and old, and it saddens me to see what some of them pass off as upcycled. I love that you leave some parts natural wood, that to me shows that you care about the beauty of the item, and not just flipping. Sorry for the long comment, just have been very disillusioned with other you tubers. Thanks again for being genuine.
THIS!!!!! ALL OF THIS!!!! Thank you for leaving such a wonderfully nice and sweet and thoughtful comment! Wow! I'm in awe! Yes some other UA-camr's are very focused on pushing paint products they are endorsing or not really helping people learn the TRUE skills needed in order to have successful projects. While others just paint everything and anything and never teach how to sand wood and highlight it. I vowed to set myself apart and learn a little about woodworking. I'm so glad I did! Thank you for noticing that I'm a cheerleader for natural wood on some projects. Not everything or every piece needs to be painted. I like teaching the why's and how come's. I am self taught and have learned the most when I make mistakes so I know first hand what it takes to have your project turn out a success. I just want people to enjoy a new hobby but not get so stressed out with it. I won't lead people astray with delusions of what can be achieved and unrealistic expectations with products. I vow to always be real! Goofy and all! When you get ready to pull the trigger reach out. I'm happy to help if you need guidance. :)
Thanks for all of your shellac'n great vids!👍😉🇨🇦
Glad you like them!
Your information has been so helpful. Thank you so much.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for such a helpful tutorial!
You are so welcome!
Solid advice and Biscuit was a super cute bonus😂!
Glad you liked it!! Biscuit is my buddy for sure. We recently welcomed another chihuahua in the family. The new guy is Bacon haha!
Thank you! You are very helpful!
Happy to help!
Thank You so much !!
You're welcome!
Thank you! I am a beginner and you have already taught me alot I will subscribe and watch your videos God Bless!
Thanks for subbing! I love hearing people are learning from my videos.
Super helpful thank you!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips!
Elizabeth Faulkner Thank you! I appreciate it!
Newbie here, I enjoyed & appreciated your video. Still nervous but excited. Thank you & your furbaby 😊
So happy you enjoyed this video. I still get nervous with projects and learning new skills. Remember as you learn you will make mistakes. I still make them. Have fun with your new DIY projects. Biscuit says “you got this!”
Great video. Thanks!!! ✊💯❤️
Thanks for watching and commenting! I appreciate it!
I love your section about practicing. I am very new to this but it is a new hobby of mine and there's still a lot of learning left to do. I have taken this from my previous knitting hobby, but your treated wood scraps look like swatches! That made me giggle a little bit.
I am always doing inconspicuous test patches on my pieces during every step of the process. I am also always open to adjusting or redoing work I'm not satisfied with before committing to the whole piece. I'm actually re-finishing my grandfather's kitchen cabinets which suffered because my mom broke rules 2 and 3 when she finished them last time lol. He wants a golden color on his oak cabinets, and gold he will get.
I messed up when I made a bad assumption on one of the cabinet doors, being I thought that the thin center panel was a veneer on both sides, when it was only a veneer on the front and a single layer of vinyl laminate on mdf on the inside. I blew right through it with the sander immediately. Totally irreparable. But, I went out and got some beautiful matte paint that compliments the color of the doors and kitchen decor. Now, they're accents instead of mistakes.
There's also the matter of the golden color which was very hard to replicate. I didn't want oil based stain because my final finish of choice is actually a hardwax oil (which I am prepared to wait the multiple weeks for final waterproof curing time, I promise! Lol), and wanted the pores to be as open as possible for that. But its really hard to find water based stain that's got a yellow tint. I tested out a stain which gave the right shade (if I didn't leave it on too long, whoops) but not quite the right hue. I ended up mixing turmeric in with the stain to get the color I wanted.
Another thing I tested was the method of prep! The first cabinet I tried scraping, but the old finish was too...clear?... for that to be effective. Then I tried successive levels of sanding which just plain took forever, and I needed to use stripper anyway because the wood was extremely porous and had so much polyurethane stuck in the pores. Ultimately, I ended up just starting with stripper on the next one and it was much easier.
Anyway, the point being is that I spent a large amount of time playing around and testing things, and adjusting my vision as the needs of the project carried on. Now I have the exact method needed to breeze through the rest of the cabinets to get the look I want.
Patience and Practice are great tips! always test. As for Shellac, I would recommend using de-waxed shellac, Oil based poly does not adhere well to standard shellac. Zinnser named their dewaxed shellac "SealCoat" I found this out when I sprayed Minwax Oilbased poly over the standard Zinnser clear shellac and it took days to dry. I would recommend putting shellac on with a rag.
As for product brands, I find all the General finishes products I've used to be fantastic, and worth the higher price. I used the wipe on gel stain and used their Enduro-Var clear finish on some walnut shelves I built.
I normally just apply Shellac on areas where I’ll be painting. Mainly to stop bleed through or tannins coming to the surface or old stains. I don’t ever use Shellac under a poly. With that said, you are correct advising de-waxed Shellac under a poly. I’ve read nightmare stories on woodworking forums. Thank you for watching and commenting. It’s always great to hear from others with experience 😊
Good information. With shellac, I always use de-waxed shelac. The wax in a can that just says shellac can resist any finish being applied over it.
You can paint over regular Shellac. I’ve been doing it almost 10 years. Where you’ll have adhesion issues is if you try to stain or use poly over regular Shellac. That’s where I would advise using de-waxed Shellac.
Biscuit is adorable !!!
🐾💜🐾💜
Thank you! I often say he’s my third child I never got to have 😉
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074
We have three fur babies ! All rescues and all shepherd cross ! They are our kids too ! :) (no kids here either)
Girl, I'm doing great with prepping my pieces and probably enjoy sanding a little too much. When acquiring furniture, how do you figure out what the heck it's made of? Veneer? Laminate? Vinyl??? (What the heck...seriously....vinyl? What do I do with that? How do you sort out real wood and veneer from laminate and the evil vinyl?
I'm not good at telling between solid wood and a veneer. But, vinyl and other non-woods are easier to tell because the texture is different. Tactile experience is very good for this, more than just looking at something.
Like, I know vinyl often has the faux wood grain stamped into it, but it feels more plasticky than wood. Wood is more porous feeling under the fingertips, no matter how finely sanded. Because they're more porous, sound and vibration carry through them more easily. Soft woods have a higher pitched ring when you rap on them with your knuckles, and hard wood rings at a lower pitch, but vinyl is denser so the sound is muffled. Same with pressboard, mdf, particleboard and pressure treated wood.
I think maybe just getting a tactile sense of the difference between them with furniture that you're 100% confident about the provenance.
Please could you add some advice on steaming apart old glue and refixing with hide glue. The case in point is a 1846 cylinder desk I'm "kinda" starting on....many thanks
Great tips. I usually paint mdf or wood tables. Ran into a dresser that looked old. I researched it and it was made in the 19th century. Bottom looks very dry. Don't want to paint it so can I just use a lemon oil to clean it? And leave as is? I know "0" about antiques
Thank you
What would you use to refinish cherry furniture... Stain or paint? Or like is cherry going to look weird through black stain
Another great video! Do you have any videos or tips for sanding carvings on furniture? I have an antique side boy I want to sand down and lime wash. It has lots of carvings on it though. Would you use a dremel?
Robin Gerlach Oh the dreaded ornate carvings and how to sand them. Haha! I use a variety of resources to try to sand those areas. Sometimes it’s as easy as folding up a piece of sandpaper and just getting in there that way. Yes it’s time consuming and there’s really no easy way to do it. I’ve also used acetone on fine steel wool and just scrubbed the finish away. Again time consuming. And yes I’ve also heard people using a Dremel.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Thank you!!
Hi there! Thanks for all your great videos they are so helpful! I'm wondering if you know the answer to this. I'm making a beer pong table using a foldable party table made of some sort of plastic. I sanded it first then cleaned off all the dust. Then taped off sections to paint designs in triangles. I used acrylic paints for every section, all different colors. Now to seal it...It will get wet...Would I follow the directions for your Polycrylic video and change brushes for each color? Or is Polycrylic the wrong top coat? Also, do I sand with 400 grit sp between coats? Do I sand again on the final coat? Thank you very much for your time. JJ
Hi Jeannie! I love hearing that my videos are being helpful. To answer your question I personally have never used Polycrylic on plastic. I did a quick google and found a hobbyist that creates plastic figurines and he paints them. He uses Polycrylic to seal the paint.
Do you like chalk paint, when and why use it...and what about the huyta paste wax?
your dog in that purse thing is too cute
what is the difference between shellac to prep or using zinnser primer please?
Isn't that dog sling hilarious?!? Biscuit loves being carried around in it.
I like using clear Shellac as my primer. Zinnser primer is white and I perfer (more often than not) to not have a white base under my projects. I'm not knocking Zinnser, it is a great primer just get it with Shellac.
Madeline this is my first time attempting to repurpose a China cabinet
I have been following you channel and you are a great teacher
I am trying to buy kruse kutter pre paint cleaner I can’t find it anywhere is there a substitute I can use??
Amazon sells Krud Kutter. Here's the link:
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Thank you for watching my videos!
Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. Im curious do you sand your furniture before apply a poly topcoat. For example I painted a piece with chalk. paint, 3 thin coats without sanding in between. And i plan to apply miniwax poly as the top coat. Should i do a light sand before applying the top coat?
Hi there! If I'm understanding you correctly you painted three thin coats of chalk paint and are planning to apply minwax poly as a topcoat? Is that a water based topcoat? If it is oil based do not use that as a topcoat. That's not the best choice. I would recommend either clear wax or for a more durable topcoat I would use water based Polycrylic.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 It is a water based topcoat, minwax polycrylic. I was curious do you sand your chalk paint before applying your topcoat?
Robyn Mackey Oh good on the water based Polycrylic! I do not sand my last coat of chalk paint before I apply the Polycrylic.
Your videos are very helpful. Thanks for sharing your experience. Do you have a shop? I live in NH too and would like to stop by when out for a drive if you have one. Biscuit is so adorable!
I love hearing this and so does Biscuit! Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I wish I had a shop but I don't. Maybe someday..
Congratulations on moving to your new home Madeline ! But would you PRETTY PLEASE share the how-to for the driftwood top finish on the dresser behind you ?
Thank you so much! We love our new homestead. Yes I have that on my tutorial to do list.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 here it is ! is it like yours ?? ua-cam.com/video/1TsBAn1JEAU/v-deo.html
Hi! How do you know what parts should be sanded and what just needs to be cleaned? Thanks in advance!
It depends what look you are going for and what areas you want to just paint and what areas you want to sand. I like a balanced look of both. So most of the time I paint the shell of a piece and then I sand the drawer fronts and the top of the piece. I really like highlighting natural wood.
Hi I was wondering after sanding and shellacking the piece....i know shellac helps block stains..but does clear shellac also act as a "bonding primer"
Yes the shellac will serve two purposes: block stains, wood tannins and serve as a bonding primer as well.
I’m getting ready to paint some furniture for my home and I’ve been watching LOTS of videos. I’ve painted some pieces previously using chalk paint. I’m curious what your preference is between water base paint, oil base paint or chalk paint. I can’t seem to find the right video regarding this info.
BiRD S Ahhhh you might have just given me an idea for my next tutorial! Here’s the differences in a nut shell:
1. Water based paints like latex. Pros: Cheaper than brand name chalk paint, durable, good base to make your own chalk paint, endless colors to choose from. cons: harder to blend multiple colors than chalk paint.
Chalk paint: pros: usually easy to apply, low to no fumes, environmentally friendly, good adhesion (still need to prep), gives a chalky look that looks good paired with wax topcoats, easy to blend. Cons: can be expensive, dries very fast (can be pro and con).
Oil paint: pros: very durable, usually cures faster than latex paint. cons: very smelly, not very environmentally friendly, takes a lot longer to dry inbetween coats.
Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration, LLC o
Krud kutter Prepaint Cleaner TSP vs Gloss-off?? Can either be used to prep? Its cheaper to get the gloss off as a gallon vs the spray bottle of prepaint tsp cleaner.
I looked up the Gloss-off and it says its a prepaint prep product. So I would go with that if its cheaper for you.
Amazing to me that people do not understand the difference between drying time and curing time. Makes a huge difference.
Very true. Two very different times indeed.
Prep work and patience - AMEN! When I refinished my daughters table, we also had bought a refinished set of drawers and night stand and the first thing I did was sand and remove most of the existing new paint (it was a bad paint job with bubbles and debris in the paint), then prep it for my wife and daughter to repaint while I was working on other pieces. I was going to tell you about that Minwax wood conditioner, but I see it is already in your pile of products. :0)
A phrase I use often that fits well with what you are saying - "Do you want it right, or do you want it right now?"
Do you add new veneers to your work, or just rework the existing pieces?
I LOVE your saying! Do you want it right, or do you want it right now? I'm definitely going to be stealing that one! Prep work is so vital and so many people want to skip it just to save a little time or they are lazy. They always pay in the end. Always. I'm starting to do more veneer repair work and teaching myself all the ins and outs to that new skill. I have a lot to learn!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Feel free to use that line whenever you want Bethany! :0)
I've never worked with adding a veneer, but I truly hate the veneer put on most furniture made today. I was reading somewhere recently that some veneer finishes are only about 1/42 of an inch thick, which means if you bump it or scratch it at all, you're ruined the piece and you can see the cheap particle board underneath forever. My dad and I rode by my old roommates house and stopped buy and he was so happy to show us his new purchase, a 100% pure mahogany bedroom set. My dad and I have both worked with real wood enough to immediately see it was all veneer, but neither of us had the heart to tell him and burst his bubble.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I hate to say it, but my wife made me come up with that saying recently. We had a water hose burst on the washing machine and in 15-20 minutes it caused about $13,000 in damages. Speaking of which, if you do not know how old your water hoses are on your washing machine, it may be a good time to replace them. I suggest braided hoses. Anyway, we had been working on the house doing many of our own repairs. I'd cut out several sections of sheetrock and replaced it, and followed up with mud to smooth everything out so when we painted it would look smooth and uniform and professional. I left the mud to dry overnight and I was going to complete the work first thing in the morning. When I got back to it, it was not wiped down, still roughed in, but it had been painted. Our friends that came down wanted to help, so the following morning when he woke up early, he installed the new shower curtain rod. No level, no measuring of any kind, just popped out 6 holes and mounted it. Then noticed after he put the curtain on the bottom of the curtain was higher than the side of the tub...and far out of level and I knew I'd have to do the work to undue what he did, then repair the damaged walls and paint it again, then buy what I needed to mount the rods correctly. So a 20 minute job turned into a 6 hour job. People that do work "RIGHT NOW" versus taking the time to do it "RIGHT" drive me absolutely nuts.
I have an old church bench. I have sanded the bench to the natural wood. I put polycyclic on the bench and it’s turned orange. I am now resanding it again. I would like to have the natural look on the bench. How do I get the look I want?
Applying topcoat over bare wood and not knowing exactly how they will react is a common headache. Depends on the wood species, how the wood has been prepped and the topcoat. I've had some good results using Watco laquer on bare wood and with it not changing colors. I recently used it over latex paint that I used to paint on a canvas (of all things) and it didn't change or yellow the paint.
Where did you get the drawer knobs? I have several pieces I did years ago that have these. I just started up again and have been unable to find them.
I get mine from Hobby Lobby
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 awesome! Thank you.
I don't know if there's a term but there seem to be different types of restoration from just cleaning with a rag to complete sandblast, replacing 2/3 of the piece, and painting it a new color than the original.
my question is, does anyone know if there are terms for it?
I would agree. I think there are different levels to restoring a piece of furniture. Some do a 100% overhaul, some do more of an upcycling restore. Some people will use the term restoring as restoring to the original condition. Some people use the term restoring loosely, maybe making the piece functional again but change the outer appearance a bit. I find some use refinish and restore as meaning the same, I know some would argue they are different. I personally don't think just taking a rag and cleaning a piece is restoring it on any level. You cleaned it, that's it.
I wanna start restoring furniture and as you mention here I need to know my products but what I really need is the basics! Do you have a crush course or something? Really for beginners? Thanks.
YES! I'm currently working on a video right now on what supplies are must haves! I'll have it uploaded in the next few days. Stay tuned!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thank you! I'll certainly watch it!
I use AWESOME to clean everything i bring in. I use Shellack on most everything. Work early.
Great tip!
Do you sand shellack before you paint over it?
@@yupyup21ful No. Don’t sand the shellac.
I love those two tone projects behind you in the videos. Can you link the tutorial? Thank you for the great tips!
Thank you so much! That’s my signature Driftwood Look. I have not done a tutorial on that particular finish.
Are you able to share the products you used to get those two tones? I love this and would love to nail the dresser I’m working on similar to this!
I just happened to stumble upon your videos. They are great and so informative. So are you saying that you should prep every piece of furniture you use chalk paint on or just the tops?
Also wanted to add that I took some classes using Annie Sloan chalk paint and was told by the instructor there was no need to sand the piece ahead of time. Is that maybe just using her chalk paint?
I’m glad you’re finding my videos informative! You need to prep every piece. You definitely need to prep if you’re using chalk paint. If you are sanding a top you need to prep that differently than you would if you were painting it.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 thanks for saying this. I've seen so many crimes against furniture. So many people think chalk paint means you can take furniture in any condition and just start painting. It makes me want to tear my hair out when I see a beautiful MSM piece or a gorgeous waterfall piece RUINED by people who think the words "chalk paint" and "shabby sheek" excuse the end project which is truly "sloppy as hell." Please, walk away from the fine furniture and stick to ikea pieces. Don't murder quality vintage furniture.
So I have redone my kitchen table
Sanded it to bare wood , did three coats of kilz , used chalk paint then top coated it with Polyacrylic clear Matt .
Had a lot of bumps and had to redo things ect
So it’s finally done my husband put his coffee cup on table and it’s left the coffee ring… got it off after applying toothpaste and baking soda but it took off the paint and too coat .
It happens again and wipe it right away and still stained .
I have 5 coats of topcoat on there .
What can I do to permanently protect my table .
At this point I am gonna have to redo all again .
With a water based poly it is suggested to let the topcoat sure a full 30 days before placing anything on it. I'm not sure if you did or did not. Also, no furniture topcoat whether water based or oil based is completely water proof (unless you use a marine type topcoat they use on boats) or heat proof. I always, always advise my customers and clients to use coasters at all times especially with coffee cups, hot plates and cold beverages.
when painting my house prepping (taping windows, doors, fascia, etc...) was the worst part and took as long as the job did, ugh...
Thomas Costello I hear ya! Prep work usually takes as long or longer than the actual painting.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 yes, one of the necessary evils that in the end saves lots of cleanup time. Sry to have bothered you a few times. I'm very excited about putting together my workshop, situating things. I'll probably work thru the night - an advantage of retirement. Oh forgot, its the weekend! Well, everyday is Sunday now. I've always had an interest in woodworking but never had the time. A few months ago I started making wooden flags, cutting boards, corn hole boards, etc... to supplement my income and I enjoyed it. It is time to move on so looked on youtube and came upon your videos. I've learned alot so thank you and keep making them, ok? I need the knowledge. Back to work now... be happy
Do you get more for refinishing Ethan Allen furniture or selling it cleaned up as is
I have a hard time selling 100% natural wood furniture. I think most people want something that’s updated and lighter in color. If I happen to refinish an Ethan Allen coffee table I do get more money because of the brand.
I practice every one of those tips. BUT the hardest one for me is patience…..lol
You and me both!
Do you have buyers asking you is it new ? how do you answer them when they ask ?
No. I always market my work as antique furniture jazzed up.
Too many people fall for the "no prep chalk paint" myth and then wonder why they get bleeding or their finishes don't last. I clean then prime and then sand in between EACH coat of paint AND wax. My finishes last forever.
I wholeheartedly agree with you! One of my more recent videos is titled “I’m spilling the tea on chalk paint companies” you should watch that.
not sure if your name is Bethany or Madeline . I went to furniture manufacturing and finishing back in the mid-90s and forgot a lot. Anyway I am gonna be starting on this friend's victorian bed it is like maybe 1700s or 1800 , now this headboard is like 8 feet tall and there are a few cracked areas that I'll need to open a little and clean then reglue and clamp, and the way it is designed I want to make sure I find the best place to clamp it, someone before also cut off part of the top design maybe to get it to fit in their house.I will probably have questions once I start and the way you explain things in your video and know about patience and enjoyment. so I'm guessing when you do a piece you do it so well that you would be proud to put your signature on the piece after completion. My question to you is this once I start this project would you be available for questions, and maybe a few suggestions? I would be honored to hear your opinions or suggestions and every word you offered would be deeply treasured and appreciated. my name is Tim and I am willing to communicate with you by what method feels the safest to you. after I start and if you're willing. I would most likely take close-up photos so you could see what I'm working on. now I would like you to consider this as the most important thing. please do not feel obligated and if you cannot help then please please let me know. I inherited my mothers worry habits lol
You're not meaning to, but you are asking her to give you free labor with this request. You might have better luck if you asked if you can pay for her time and expertise as a professional consultant during the project. :)
I just watched a “pro flipper” not use shellac on his dark piece and he ended up with 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of paint. Crazy.
That is kind of nutty. I prefer just Shellac. Two coats and I'm done.
Can you let a coat dry more than 24 hours?
A coat of paint? topcoat? I'm not sure I know exactly your question.
This is why you have to have several different projects going on at the same time. So you are not so impatient about one piece.
Isn't that the point of chalk paint? No prep?
"Success depends upon previous preparation, and without such preparation there is sure to be failure." Confucius :-)
Rock solid quote! I like it!
Yes, It's all in the prep work. And that holds true for everything from refinishing a wood floor, tilling a new shower stall, or even painting a house
No thats wrong just go with the flow little bro
Tie a balloon on him. I saw that on UA-cam. It was hilarious. They wanted to know where the small dogs were
I saw this recently on TikTok too! Genius idea and funny too!
I took finish carpentry in high school and struggle with painting anything I haven’t sanded down to bare wood....😖
I’m never gonna turn a profit sanding everything! 🤣
I’m also struggling with people applying oil based shellac then painting with water based paint. I was taught never to mix products. Therefore, I sand. 😖🤣
There is some gray area when it comes to using water based products and then oil based products. I do apply Shellac before I paint, especially with lighter colors. It's a great adhesion product. I've never had an issues with it.
You are looking pretty 🤫
You don't like paint remover?
I don’t like stripping furniture with layers of old paint. It’s sooooo time consuming.
Biggest mistake in restoring furniture is taking advice from random youtubers who carry around their dog in a purse.
Joel go back and crawl under your rock.
@BibleTalk101 HAHA!
Obviously, this is a Russian Bot. ...probably. ...yeah, definitely.