The info you are providing is so good. Amazing content. I picked up a 67 Camaro RS 4 yrs ago. Crap happened, Wife lost her job, Then a death in the family, Then Covid and all the other crap that has gone on. Car sat in a shelter logic "garage" until last Nov because my garage build was delayed over and over. I know have quite a basket case of a car. If it were in this shape when I picked it up I would have passed. I'm now facing an extensive rebuild like you are doing on this car. Average working guy.. going to have to do it all myself. Finding all the same bad spots you are going over and the info you are giving is so darn good. Amazing work, and they way you explain and show stuff is great. Really glad I found your channel.
Life happens indeed, you made me Smile with this one! The entire reason I am doing this channel is to share my love for these cars and inspire or help people just like you to get out there and save their dreams. I don’t have a big fancy shop but that doesn’t mean you can’t build a high quality car at home with basic body and mechanic tools and have some fun while you are doing it! I promise to keep the camera rolling and don’t hesitate to ask for more details on any part of the build. Congrats on your 67 Camaro and good luck on your adventure bringing it back to life.
@@VinylVillageGarage And keep as many old cars tougher as possible as we have sent to many to the crusher already. I have a 66 Olds 442 convert in 10 million pieces in boxes all over my shop, The shell needs floor pans & trunk floor plus the frame is rotted out bad under the drivers door area. I cut the bad section out of a 66 Buick skylark convert to splice it in but it is turning into a life time JOB to restore plus a money pit. The reason I refuse to give up on the car, it's a REAL 442 convert, only year for the tri power W-30 car. ( Olds 442 has it's own history in the early years) Do I have a tri power for it ? no , I can't even find a correct 66 rebuildable 400 Olds block for it, ( 3 year production for that 400 block) I will use a 1966 Olds 425 & Q jet unless I find a tri power for it ( under 10 million dollars !!!! ) lol. Some of this BOP stuff is just CRAZY on price, if you can find it! GTO is bad enough, but 442 is like 3 or 4 times MORE !
Nice first year bird, glad to be of assistance in the resurrection. I wish you could share photos on here I would and many others I am Sure would appropriate them.
Easy because it’s fun! I forgot the part in the trunk jam in the front corners where to date codes are stamped it’s another reason why I want to leave them intact.
That is great and that tells me they must have done it well back in the day. From my experience that doesn’t happen very often. It’s good to hear someone put some real effort into saving that car.
My dad bought it in 1976, sold it in 1992. I bought it back in 2002, I will never sell it. In 1977, we stripped the paint off by hand, and discovered rivets to hold the panel on. They did a great job, it still looks good.
Another great video. You make this look too easy. By the way I saw the brick and some tape but ive been missing the Mt. Dew lol. Keep up the great work.
Have you seen the little rivet things they sell that you can attach with a spot welder? Looks pretty much like factory and you don’t need screws to hold the vinyl top trim on.
@@VinylVillageGarage search “Motor Guard trim rivets.” They sell the tip for a spot welder made to attach these too. The guy I saw do this used a harbor freight spot welder with this special tip.
Both outers are rough I will be replacing both. Did you know there was an option on the F-body car that had a sprayer system for winter traction. It consisted of a couple nozzles that would spray a deicer and traction compound of some sort from the rear wheel wells. It was a total flop but imagine adapting it for bleach! Instant smoke!!
I had three people with cash supposedly that wanted to get it this week…… it’s Friday and no one with cash yet. I suppose it’s still for sale. I will repost it on Facebook market place next week but make sure my phone is charged in preparation for all the notifications. It was nuts last time so I ended the listing
@@VinylVillageGarage Yep, selling big ticket items can be a huge pain so hopefully it goes smoother this time for you. The headaches are just part of the "job" in this case. Hell, I thought Luis was picking up your blue one on Sunday! Oh well, his surprise goes on!!!
I am almost to the point I don’t want to sell that car after hearing it run and giving it a once over again its nicer then I remember. So it has to be a solid offer for me to let it go.
1967 is a little different then 68&69 the bases are the same for the most part, I unfortunately don’t have one. off the top of my head besides a reproduction i can’t recall Anyone that does. Good luck on your search.
My 400 car had the common rot around the wheel arch when I bought it about 3 to 4 inches up the 1/4 on it. Back then (1980) there were no 1 piece patch 1/4s being produced yet, and a full 1/4 were very pricey as the only way to get one was from the GM dealer and even back then, they were $400.00 each ( if you could find them) I beat my head on the wall using them stupid 3 piece nightmare patch panels and had to duraglass & mud the hell out of them to block them straight. But I did learn one very important fact from that mess. Do everything you can to use as much of the original 1/4 as you can get away with. If that was me doing your car, I would not have gone that far up the 1/4 as you did because yours had good metal much lower and that is where I would have cut it, as low as possible to reuse as much of the original sheet meatal as possible. Don't get me wrong, where you cut it is fine, and I know why you cut it there but keep in mind, the original Pontiac1/4 is good quality steel, and you have no idea what old rusted out Buick bumpers the replacement 1/4s was made out of.
Very true we all know they are made in Taiwan and unknown quality of steel. My goal is to use the least amount of body filler as possible. I guess i am hopeful the steel used on my panels came from not so rusty Buick bumpers. 😉 I haven’t tried the 3 piece patches 20 years ago when I did my first bird it was an option but I was able to get what was a very low quality very thin 1/4 skin i sectioned in. I guess we shall see, Plus this car probably will never see bad weather again anyway which helps.
@@VinylVillageGarage Oh I knew your reason to cut it like that, leave just enough to flange it & weld it, then a thin coat of duraglass and very little mud to block it straight with primer to finish it off. It's just we have no idea if that unknown metal will hold up or not. I bought a aftermatket 69 Camaro cowel hood for my RS/SS . ( only a hood the rest of the car is all GM metal.) I used the same primer & sealer over the entire car as well as Imron paint. But everytime the car get's rained on at a car show only the aftermarket hood gets these small pimples pop up under the paint ! I wipe the car off and and park it for a few days inside my shop totally dry and the pimples go away ! and the paint is flawless again ! . But if the car gets rained on again, months later, them pimples are BACK but only for a few days and only on the aftermarket hood ! the rest of the car paint is perfect ! VERY STRAAAANGE !!!! What the heck are they puttin in that metal ????? because it's NOT the paint ! I really have no idea how to stop it. My good auto paint store is in shock over this as well as the Imron paint supplier because it's not the paint. How can it pop up wet, then be gone dry, then pop up again and only with rain water, and only the HOOD !
Good to know, I am not totally surprised there is a reaction with the repop panel. Wish there was a way to see thru the paint to determine is it’s not adhering to the metal or one of the substrates. I will add that bit of info to the rememory
That would be extremely frustrating to me. I like to know the why, part of the reason I like what I do. Solving puzzles is how I see problems and to never find the solution drives me crazy
I keep thinking of Sammy Hagar song “Baby on fire” when I see these Firebirds. I often wonder is he talking about his Firebird Trans Am or a woman. Hmmmmm😉 Great song never the less
Thanks for using common sense on panel restoration - I wish more body shops did the same 😉
Me too that’s a big reason why I started to do it myself. Now that has turned into my favorite past time, bird rescuing
Looking good brother and yes with that panel you can save more birds
Like yours I now have a 1968 door jamb section just like you need
@@VinylVillageGarage yes brother and I really need it please
The info you are providing is so good. Amazing content. I picked up a 67 Camaro RS 4 yrs ago. Crap happened, Wife lost her job, Then a death in the family, Then Covid and all the other crap that has gone on. Car sat in a shelter logic "garage" until last Nov because my garage build was delayed over and over. I know have quite a basket case of a car. If it were in this shape when I picked it up I would have passed. I'm now facing an extensive rebuild like you are doing on this car. Average working guy.. going to have to do it all myself. Finding all the same bad spots you are going over and the info you are giving is so darn good. Amazing work, and they way you explain and show stuff is great. Really glad I found your channel.
Life happens indeed, you made me
Smile with this one! The entire reason I am doing this channel is to share my love for these cars and inspire or help people just like you to get out there and save their dreams. I don’t have a big fancy shop but that doesn’t mean you can’t build a high quality car at home with basic body and mechanic tools and have some fun while you are doing it! I promise to keep the camera rolling and don’t hesitate to ask for more details on any part of the build. Congrats on your 67 Camaro and good luck on your adventure bringing it back to life.
@@VinylVillageGarage And keep as many old cars tougher as possible as we have sent to many to the crusher already. I have a 66 Olds 442 convert in 10 million pieces in boxes all over my shop, The shell needs floor pans & trunk floor plus the frame is rotted out bad under the drivers door area. I cut the bad section out of a 66 Buick skylark convert to splice it in but it is turning into a life time JOB to restore plus a money pit. The reason I refuse to give up on the car, it's a REAL 442 convert, only year for the tri power W-30 car. ( Olds 442 has it's own history in the early years) Do I have a tri power for it ? no , I can't even find a correct 66 rebuildable 400 Olds block for it, ( 3 year production for that 400 block) I will use a 1966 Olds 425 & Q jet unless I find a tri power for it ( under 10 million dollars !!!! ) lol. Some of this BOP stuff is just CRAZY on price, if you can find it! GTO is bad enough, but 442 is like 3 or 4 times MORE !
I love this channel it's an inspiration I am also working on a 1967 firebird resto
Nice first year bird, glad to be of assistance in the resurrection. I wish you could share photos on here I would and many others I am
Sure would appropriate them.
I will sure try to send photos
Neat prizes lol I found a whole jegs shipment of pocket change in my 68 camaro
That’s really cool Have to fund the project somehow.
nice!! very similar to the way I did my 69 camaro
very cool, I think it looks clean and makes sense
Making it look easy again , very good videos, like the idea of saving what’s good !
Easy because it’s fun! I forgot the part in the trunk jam in the front corners where to date codes are stamped it’s another reason why I want to leave them intact.
Great information!!
Glad to help and thanks for letting me
Know.
The drivers side rear quarter was replaced on my '68, way back in 1975! Still looks good after all these years!
That is great and that tells me they must have done it well back in the day. From my experience that doesn’t happen very often. It’s good to hear someone put some real effort into saving that car.
My dad bought it in 1976, sold it in 1992. I bought it back in 2002, I will never sell it. In 1977, we stripped the paint off by hand, and discovered rivets to hold the panel on. They did a great job, it still looks good.
Nice video. Thank you for taking the time to make and post. Just subscribed
Right on! Thanks
For subscribing
Good stuff. Need the vids to be longer to see how the process is done. Love your channel. I have 3 birds of my own. 👍
3 birds! That’s great. That many more saved from the scrap pile. I have yet to master video length, It a balance I will keep working on to find
Another great video. You make this look too easy. By the way I saw the brick and some tape but ive been missing the Mt. Dew lol. Keep up the great work.
it was in there super brief in my hand just before I cut the 1/4 panel off. 😁
Have you seen the little rivet things they sell that you can attach with a spot welder? Looks pretty much like factory and you don’t need screws to hold the vinyl top trim on.
No I don’t think I have seen those. I will have to look into that. Who sells them?
@@VinylVillageGarage search “Motor Guard trim rivets.” They sell the tip for a spot welder made to attach these too. The guy I saw do this used a harbor freight spot welder with this special tip.
@@VinylVillageGarage I see some on Eastwood’s website too. They don’t list the brand though.
Add that to my wish list. Thanks!
Is that the quarter panel that AMD sells? It looks pretty accurate. Thanks for all the great videos.
This car was about 90% AMD panels including the 1/4 panels
Are there holes in both rear wheel wells or just the passenger side? If in both, Bleach burnouts?
Both outers are rough I will be replacing both. Did you know there was an option on the F-body car that had a sprayer system for winter traction. It consisted of a couple nozzles that would spray a deicer and traction compound of some sort from the rear wheel wells. It was a total flop but imagine adapting it for bleach! Instant smoke!!
What size Meg wire do you use Don OMary
Hello Don good question I use .030 for 95% of what I do on the ultra rare occasion .023
@@VinylVillageGarage thanks
No problem
You know I'll be watching, Jon, and hey, did you eventually sell the blue Firebird on Facebook?
I had three people with cash supposedly that wanted to get it this week…… it’s Friday and no one with cash yet. I suppose it’s still for sale. I will repost it on Facebook market place next week but make sure my phone is charged in preparation for all the notifications. It was nuts last time so I ended the listing
@@VinylVillageGarage Yep, selling big ticket items can be a huge pain so hopefully it goes smoother this time for you. The headaches are just part of the "job" in this case. Hell, I thought Luis was picking up your blue one on Sunday! Oh well, his surprise goes on!!!
I am almost to the point I don’t want to sell that car after hearing it run and giving it a once over again its nicer then I remember. So it has to be a solid offer for me to let it go.
@@VinylVillageGarage Can't say I blame you!!
I also need a console would you have one you would sell
1967 is a little different then 68&69 the bases are the same for the most part, I unfortunately don’t have one. off the top of my head besides a reproduction i can’t recall Anyone that does. Good luck on your search.
My 400 car had the common rot around the wheel arch when I bought it about 3 to 4 inches up the 1/4 on it. Back then (1980) there were no 1 piece patch 1/4s being produced yet, and a full 1/4 were very pricey as the only way to get one was from the GM dealer and even back then, they were $400.00 each ( if you could find them) I beat my head on the wall using them stupid 3 piece nightmare patch panels and had to duraglass & mud the hell out of them to block them straight. But I did learn one very important fact from that mess. Do everything you can to use as much of the original 1/4 as you can get away with.
If that was me doing your car, I would not have gone that far up the 1/4 as you did because yours had good metal much lower and that is where I would have cut it, as low as possible to reuse as much of the original sheet meatal as possible. Don't get me wrong, where you cut it is fine, and I know why you cut it there but keep in mind, the original Pontiac1/4 is good quality steel, and you have no idea what old rusted out Buick bumpers the replacement 1/4s was made out of.
Very true we all know they are made in Taiwan and unknown quality of steel. My goal is to use the least amount of body filler as possible. I guess i am hopeful the steel used on my panels came from not so rusty Buick bumpers. 😉 I haven’t tried the 3 piece patches 20 years ago when I did my first bird it was an option but I was able to get what was a very low quality very thin 1/4 skin i sectioned in. I guess we shall see,
Plus this car probably will never see bad weather again anyway which helps.
@@VinylVillageGarage Oh I knew your reason to cut it like that, leave just enough to flange it & weld it, then a thin coat of duraglass and very little mud to block it straight with primer to finish it off. It's just we have no idea if that unknown metal will hold up or not. I bought a aftermatket 69 Camaro cowel hood for my RS/SS . ( only a hood the rest of the car is all GM metal.) I used the same primer & sealer over the entire car as well as Imron paint. But everytime the car get's rained on at a car show only the aftermarket hood
gets these small pimples pop up under the paint ! I wipe the car off and and park it for a few days inside my shop totally dry and the pimples go away ! and the paint is flawless again ! . But if the car gets rained on again, months later, them pimples are BACK but only for a few days and only on the aftermarket hood ! the rest of the car paint is perfect ! VERY STRAAAANGE !!!! What the heck are they puttin in that metal ????? because it's NOT the paint ! I really have no idea how to stop it. My good auto paint store is in shock over this as well as the Imron paint supplier because it's not the paint. How can it pop up wet, then be gone dry, then pop up again and only with rain water, and only the HOOD !
Good to know, I am not totally surprised there is a reaction with the repop panel. Wish there was a way to see thru the paint to determine is it’s not adhering to the metal or one of the substrates. I will add that bit of info to the rememory
@@VinylVillageGarage When you see this happen, you will know, Damnest thing I ever seen and have no idea what to do about it.
That would be extremely frustrating to me. I like to know the why, part of the reason I like what I do. Solving puzzles is how I see problems and to never find the solution drives me crazy
I keep thinking of Sammy Hagar song “Baby on fire” when I see these Firebirds. I often wonder is he talking about his Firebird Trans Am or a woman. Hmmmmm😉 Great song never the less
Maybe both at the same time… 🤔
@@VinylVillageGarage only one can hope lol 👍🏻