Wow !! You have talent !! I was just sitting here dreaming if we were neighbors hahaha ! I restored my 68 in 2 different garages cause I moved while I was in the process in the many years that it took me. You know life ,money,kids etc... any rate now that I'm basically finished with my car I moved again now I have a 8 car garage. So I'm really itching to do another one. Especially with all this room. Thank you again. I'm really glad I found your page. You do awesome work and it's extremely nice of you to share your knowledge !!
Absolutely 💯 % Great work my Firebird brother 👏 I really love the way you did that the upper 1/4 panel parts you gave me I did the same thing and believe me you can't tell where the repair was done and thanks for saving that panel for me I really appreciate you
Thank you I really feel this should help give some guidance on a project like this. There is so much to share and so little time it feels like. Trying to get all the key points highlighted.
I have a 1969 convertible need quarter panels both sides after seeing your video I am going to tempt it myself Thank you for the encouragement I must have watched all of your videos And yes I'm doing it in my 2 car garage and my backyard
Then it’s official you are vinyl village garage/VVG certified!! Additional tip when doing quarter panels on a convertible if it’s possible keep some weight on the suspension and continuously check your door jamb gap. What have seen convertibles have more flex when cutting them apart, naturally because no roof to keep it tied together. Congrats on your project and good luck. Of course if I can help don’t hesitate to ask and a huge thanks for watching.
Awesome video. Measuring Masking Tape is a great tool. Its really cool to see how you lined this panel up and cut through both panels to get this panel on. Your project is really coming along. I cant wait to see the tail panel video. Keep up the great work.
Would recommend this same method for 67 gto rear quarters. Just purchased one in pieces. It needs both rear quarters, some front and rear window channel work, trunk pans, patch floor pans, and some, package tray work, patch, drop off rail, and a patch outer fender that willl have to quarter to fix. Videos are very helpful.
I would recommend this way if everything else is good like this car was. Trunk jamb, door jamb, window channel didn’t need any repairs. Plus the less you cut out the less chance things get distorted and out of shape
Roof, top half of quarters, door jams and sail panels are good. Most attention needed at window chanel, bottom quarters, and area between decklid / rear quarter area
Awesome tips, im looking forward to using aftermarket panels some day on classic car worth money $$. Much easier than pieceing together your own from scratch. Ive only done modern restorations. Rust out repairs, small collisions, bumpers & stuff. Year 2000s & newer unibodies. Doglegs & some major rocker panel rebuilding, inner & outer structure. lower pinch weld restructuring to save cars up here in IL.
and yet another well done tutorial video. I really like the tape idea as it's a perfect reference to what you're trying to achieve. The relief cut on the inside corner for the tail panel was a smart little trick to pack away in my memory as well, thanks for pointing that one out. The owner must be super excited seeing how much has been done!
Awesome glad to help i am full of these tricks part of the reason I am Doing it on video to share as many as possible. I send the owner update photos and behind the scenes things that way he knows exactly what his is getting when it’s done. No hidden surprises here.
Just wondering if you have seen the miniature belt sander that they use at Robby Layton's body shop. I probably won't ever do much body work, but I still like learning your tips and tricks.
Awesome thanks! I do have one actually, works good especially tight areas like trunk floor and frame rail gap. I use it to clean up the plug welds when needed.
I'm restoring a 68 bird as well. Trying to figure out what quarter panel option I need. My door jamb and trunk opening are good,my tail panel edge is not. Does a skin include the tail panel edge of the quarter panel or do I need the full panel? Thanks
Good question, full 1/4 Has everything you need. A standard skin doesn’t have tail panel stamping. They now offer a partial 1/4 panel that comes with the door jamb area but the description says doesn’t include trunk jam or sail panel but doesn’t mention tail panel flange. With all that said OER makes this partial it might be worth while to contact them somehow and find out the details on the tail panel area. If it doesn’t include the tail panel area you will need to buy a full 1/4 or had fab the parts.
Understand that. When I first started building cars it was a big undertaking, not much out there for information besides books and magazines then the occasional episode of overhaulin to learn how to even start. My plan and hopes with this UA-cam adventure was to share as much as possible and hope that it gives some help for anyone needing some insight on a restoration process. Do what I can to answer any questions on your journey.
How do you like that Eastwood Mig 175? Do you ever wish you had gone bigger? I am trying to figure out what I need and of course everyone recommends an expensive Lincoln model. Well, I don't weld for a living and that just isn't happening.
Love my welder had it for I at least 15 years now. Sheet metal does great, 1/8” steel for frames no issues. For what i do exceeds my expectations. And if it where to die I would replace with a new one
Not really, I would level the car up and support the frame on both sides at the rear of the car because it will ensure nothing moves. For the most part the 1/4 will have little to no effect on body position I guess better safe then sorry is how I see it.
I will say I have tried all Brands and pros and cons with all of them. I am almost convinced that all the panels are made at one plant in Taiwan haven’t proved it yet. With that said the majority of the time AMD panels fit better and cleaner lines so I lean more toward them when buying parts.
any tips/advice on changing out the silver trim sets (LVR Trim) I had a guy paint my 67 Firebird a few years ago and it didn't even occur to me that he painted over the silver "rib" trim on the side of the car. I bought the new parts but not quite sure the best way to pull them out and snap the new ones in?
They are a little tricky to remove the nuts off the back side. The best time to do it is if you have the window regulator out then it’s wide open and a straight shot.
The song is Kurt by a band called Cheel. It's in the video description (which is a good thing because I was about to reply incorrectly that the song is Blinded by a band called Fytch).
It gets plug welded. I think it’s the next video I show how. The thing I forgot to do was pre drill that flange, it’s much easy if you do before installing the panel.
@@randyfleet9968 see if this works. Welding in tight quarters…🤣 how to weld rocker to the quarter panel 1968 Firebird ua-cam.com/video/vbcuzod5uRQ/v-deo.html
Wow I will take that as a nice compliment! I am actually building this car for someone I doubt he will sell it but you never know of corse. I will keep you informed as we go.
Both are level and need shimmed as you move things around. The car body typically stays the same but the bubble level will need to be readjusted as you move across the uneven shop floor. Fortunately my 7’ level has a relatively weak magnet running full length that I attach washers too as I move it around to correct height.
@@VinylVillageGarage I noticed that the car is sitting on jack stands. How do you level the car with jack stands being that they are not infinitely adjustable like a hydraulic jack is. Do you put shims under the jack stands until you get it level? Where do you put the level across the car to determine if it's level? There are so many round and uneven surfaces. It's not like a 2X4 that you can lay the level on if building a house for example.
I used metal plates 1/16-1/8” thick under the jack stands and even cardboard on top sometimes to fine tune the body. Now where to check becomes a bit of a trick. The pinch welds are not perfect from the factory but it is a place to start. That’s measuring side to side. From front to back the top side of the rocker in the door jam works great. Then for me the last points of reference is the body mounts at the firewall and mid way under the front seat area and last rear frame rails in the area where the front leaf spring mount is a great place to set side to side. Now this is just my opinion and works for me but if I am within a 1/8” in comparison I call it good.
i’ve gotten to the point where i am about to cut things out and sandblast the whole thing but… the stupid dash is stuck in and i have no clue how to get it out. how in the world did you get yours off? are there hidden bolts somewhere that i can’t see? please help🙏
Nice progress! I assume you are talking about the dash pad. If so there is four studs on the dash pad that has nuts along the front edge starting at the drivers side right next to the VIN on the dash then they go across to the passenger side. Basically if you look up on the underside of the dash where the VIN plate is pop riveted in you see the first nut. Then you have 2 Phillips head screws that are on the a-pillar and last are the pieces that drop down each side they just pop in.
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you!! i got all the screws and bolts off but the stud things that go into the metal part of the dash were stuck and basically rusted solid to the dash kinda broke them off and got the dash pad off thank you!!!! you’re definitely more helpful then all the facebook groups i’m in😂😂
Glad to help, I agree there are a lot of opinions out there for sure. I like to back mine up with proof and good info. Good to know you where able to get it apart. Best wishes on the rest of your birds recovery, and don’t hesitate to ask us first 😉
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you i’ve already gotten a lot of answers from your videos me and my dad are restoring a bird in memory of my grandpa the bird itself is in a little bit worse condition than yours. we are probably gonna need to replace our frame rails and we don’t want to cause everything to shift. we watched your video saying we could use your tool you built but we are pretty far from Indianapolis so we might build our own. keep uploading amazing videos me and my dad have been watching them ever since we got our bird you’ve definitely gotten us hooked on them we might save a few.
Saving a bird with history and family Project is even better. I made that jig mostly because the specs are not clear or good. Even if you don’t make a jig take a lot of photos and measurements of the original frame rails for reference later. Glad to hear the videos and info is helping out. It is the reason I am doing it. Keep in touch and me updated on your progress
Several reasons, trunk gutter was in great shape, sail panel great shape and door jamb excellent shape. Really no need for a full 1/4 until you get to the area by the lower tail panel. The full 1/4 has that stamped out correctly to get the small gap between the tail panel and 1/4 correct. Most of the time most cars get that area filled with body filler, I like the look of the gap more and it shows more detail to me. One of the small reasons not replace entire panel is in the front corner there is numbers stamped, only on original 1/4 panels and it’s visible with the trunk open. And I like leaving that intact when possible. Plus when I am done I get to collect several useful patch panels that are not sold separately and have been a life saver for many cars that needed only the gutter, sail panel or door jamb. I can think of 6 different people that I have just given those pieces to and now those cars are being restored Now if more of those areas where damaged I would have replaced the entire panel. The difficulty is about the same replacing the entire 1/4 vs sections. So no real benefit there.
All the real body guys only replace what's needed. Discard the rest. The stamping may be slightly off and can cause bigger problems if you do the whole thing, the whole thing could be off. This way you maintain the original shape & positioning. It's easier to fix a slightly off section than a whole side. Hard to get a whole side perfect, this way you maintain those factory edges & shapes.
I’m looking to pickup a 68 Firebird. Your instructional videos are as good as they get. Great work
Fantastic good luck with the new purchase. Glad to help!
Once I saw the tape trick I WAS SOLD!!!! Another awesome video buddy!!!!
Thanks buddy. That tape is cheap and works great! My bottle for the welder was empty…..again 🤷♂️
What a perfect example of what happens when you take pride in your work.
Thanks! I love what I do.
Nice work!
Thanks!
Wow !! You have talent !! I was just sitting here dreaming if we were neighbors hahaha ! I restored my 68 in 2 different garages cause I moved while I was in the process in the many years that it took me. You know life ,money,kids etc... any rate now that I'm basically finished with my car I moved again now I have a 8 car garage. So I'm really itching to do another one. Especially with all this room. Thank you again. I'm really glad I found your page. You do awesome work and it's extremely nice of you to share your knowledge !!
8 car garage i would have sooooooo many toys. Congratulations. I say go for it find that new project and get building it soon.
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you. I am definitely thinking about it !!
Absolutely 💯 % Great work my Firebird brother 👏 I really love the way you did that the upper 1/4 panel parts you gave me I did the same thing and believe me you can't tell where the repair was done and thanks for saving that panel for me I really appreciate you
Welcome and It’s boxed up and heading your way friend!
Sure appreciate your hard work on your videos.
Glad to help. Wish I had a resource like UA-cam when I was first building cars.
Excellent technique, the masking tape, butt weld, and the relief cut in the back spot on. The inside looks great too. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you I really feel this should help give some guidance on a project like this. There is so much to share and so little time it feels like. Trying to get all the key points highlighted.
Well, your doing a great job.
Thanks and it’s been fun too so win win I suppose
I have a 1969 convertible need quarter panels both sides after seeing your video I am going to tempt it myself Thank you for the encouragement I must have watched all of your videos And yes I'm doing it in my 2 car garage and my backyard
Then it’s official you are vinyl village garage/VVG certified!! Additional tip when doing quarter panels on a convertible if it’s possible keep some weight on the suspension and continuously check your door jamb gap. What have seen convertibles have more flex when cutting them apart, naturally because no roof to keep it tied together. Congrats on your project and good luck. Of course if I can help don’t hesitate to ask and a huge thanks for watching.
Thank you for the reply and the confidence looking forward to that tail Pan that you're gotta do on your pumpkin
It’s actually already test fitted and came out great. I am about a week or two behind with the videos. I really like the fitment
Camaro guy here love the video gonna do it on my 67
Nice! Cool car to restore, nothing better then getting your hands dirty and doing ads much as you can. Good luck!
@@VinylVillageGarage thanks
Vert clever the way you did the cut! But it totally makes sense, great instruction - thanks for making this understandable!!!
Welcome! There is so much to share its hard to determine what parts to highlight. Glad to hear it makes sense.
beautifully done. I pick up usable and valuable tips on each video. Thanks for sharing Jon!
That was the plan glad you are finding it useful.
Amazing stuff, seriously- Love it!
Glad you like it
Try a magnetic copper plate for the wider gaps . Eastwood sells them and they work real well . Awesome job and great video .
Good tip! I do like Eastwood stuff too
Awesome video. Measuring Masking Tape is a great tool. Its really cool to see how you lined this panel up and cut through both panels to get this panel on. Your project is really coming along. I cant wait to see the tail panel video. Keep up the great work.
Thanks friend, it looks like finally getting a break from the heat wave too!! Gona make some good progress I hope.
@@VinylVillageGarage its still hot down here. trying to get the little bug in this weekend to start on it, hopefully.....
Would recommend this same method for 67 gto rear quarters. Just purchased one in pieces. It needs both rear quarters, some front and rear window channel work, trunk pans, patch floor pans, and some, package tray work, patch, drop off rail, and a patch outer fender that willl have to quarter to fix. Videos are very helpful.
I would recommend this way if everything else is good like this car was. Trunk jamb, door jamb, window channel didn’t need any repairs. Plus the less you cut out the less chance things get distorted and out of shape
Roof, top half of quarters, door jams and sail panels are good. Most attention needed at window chanel, bottom quarters, and area between decklid / rear quarter area
Awesome tips, im looking forward to using aftermarket panels some day on classic car worth money $$. Much easier than pieceing together your own from scratch. Ive only done modern restorations. Rust out repairs, small collisions, bumpers & stuff. Year 2000s & newer unibodies. Doglegs & some major rocker panel rebuilding, inner & outer structure. lower pinch weld restructuring to save cars up here in IL.
Rust belt like here in Indy. Those repairs definitely Give you some nice experience for doing a classic someday.
and yet another well done tutorial video. I really like the tape idea as it's a perfect reference to what you're trying to achieve. The relief cut on the inside corner for the tail panel was a smart little trick to pack away in my memory as well, thanks for pointing that one out. The owner must be super excited seeing how much has been done!
Awesome glad to help i am full of these tricks part of the reason I am
Doing it on video to share as many as possible. I send the owner update photos and behind the scenes things that way he knows exactly what his is getting when it’s done. No hidden surprises here.
Good job
Thanks
great video !
Thanks!
Very nice video. Thank you for sharing
Of course anytime
Nice work on your firebird..l found some reports 1/4 s for my 1973 maverick .l may tackel it
Heck yeah. Go for it!
Great work and great video
Thanks!!
Just wondering if you have seen the miniature belt sander that they use at Robby Layton's body shop. I probably won't ever do much body work, but I still like learning your tips and tricks.
Awesome thanks! I do have one actually, works good especially tight areas like trunk floor and frame rail gap. I use it to clean up the plug welds when needed.
I'm restoring a 68 bird as well. Trying to figure out what quarter panel option I need. My door jamb and trunk opening are good,my tail panel edge is not. Does a skin include the tail panel edge of the quarter panel or do I need the full panel? Thanks
Good question, full 1/4
Has everything you need. A standard skin doesn’t have tail panel stamping. They now offer a partial 1/4 panel that comes with the door jamb area but the description says doesn’t include trunk jam or sail panel but doesn’t mention tail panel flange. With all that said OER makes this partial it might be worth while to contact them somehow and find out the details on the tail panel area. If it doesn’t include the tail panel area you will need to buy a full 1/4 or had fab the parts.
Thanks for the information, greatly appreciate the detail. Though you might have the answer. The great pumpkin is looking awesome!!
I got a 1969 firebird I am attempting to redo on Long Island..
Definitely need help lol.
Nice. 1969 is my favorite year, I just looked at another one for my friend, he wants to build one too. Good luck on your build
Understand that. When I first started building cars it was a big undertaking, not much out there for information besides books and magazines then the occasional episode of overhaulin to learn how to even start. My plan and hopes with this UA-cam adventure was to share as much as possible and hope that it gives some help for anyone needing some insight on a restoration process. Do what I can to answer any questions on your journey.
@@VinylVillageGarage appreciate it , the channel is a big help.
How do you like that Eastwood Mig 175? Do you ever wish you had gone bigger? I am trying to figure out what I need and of course everyone recommends an expensive Lincoln model. Well, I don't weld for a living and that just isn't happening.
Love my welder had it for I at least 15 years now. Sheet metal does great, 1/8” steel for frames no issues. For what i do exceeds my expectations. And if it where to die I would replace with a new one
Are there any concerns with performing a panel replacement of this size on a convertible?
Not really, I would level the car up and support the frame on both sides at the rear of the car because it will ensure nothing moves. For the most part the 1/4 will have little to no effect on body position I guess better safe then sorry is how I see it.
Is there a way can send you pictures of my 68 and get your advice on how to proceed? It's a mess in my mind. Thanks
Yup send them to my email. It’s listed in the video description
Vinylvillagegarage@gmail.com
What company do you recommend for aftermarket metal? I hear conflicting info on fitment.
I will say I have tried all
Brands and pros and cons with all of them. I am almost convinced that all the panels are made at one plant in Taiwan haven’t proved it yet. With that said the majority of the time AMD panels fit better and cleaner lines so I lean more toward them when buying parts.
any tips/advice on changing out the silver trim sets (LVR Trim) I had a guy paint my 67 Firebird a few years ago and it didn't even occur to me that he painted over the silver "rib" trim on the side of the car. I bought the new parts but not quite sure the best way to pull them out and snap the new ones in?
They are a little tricky to remove the nuts off the back side. The best time to do it is if you have the window regulator out then it’s wide open and a straight shot.
Food job, can you tell me rhe bands name you are playing.
I love that song.
I don’t recall, I watched the video again and didn’t hear anything but again my hearing isn’t so good. What time was it playing?
The song is Kurt by a band called Cheel. It's in the video description (which is a good thing because I was about to reply incorrectly that the song is Blinded by a band called Fytch).
When you do your cut angle the cut wheel about 45% to the outside
Cool. Thanks
What do you do to the bottom of the quarter panel at the rocker panel?
It gets plug welded. I think it’s the next video I show how. The thing I forgot to do was pre drill that flange, it’s much easy if you do before installing the panel.
@@VinylVillageGarageI will have to search for that one. I am about to start on a '69 Trans Am and that question has me stumped. Thanks!
@@randyfleet9968 see if this works. Welding in tight quarters…🤣 how to weld rocker to the quarter panel 1968 Firebird
ua-cam.com/video/vbcuzod5uRQ/v-deo.html
I would be interested in buying it when you get finished.
I believe it belongs to another owner, Ken-
Wow I will take that as a nice compliment! I am actually building this car for someone I doubt he will sell it but you never know of corse. I will keep you informed as we go.
Is your level set to level and the car also level or are you just using the edge of the level as a reference to the panels and it's not level?
Both are level and need shimmed as you move things around. The car body typically stays the same but the bubble level will need to be readjusted as you move across the uneven shop floor. Fortunately my 7’ level has a relatively weak magnet running full length that I attach washers too as I move it around to correct height.
@@VinylVillageGarage I noticed that the car is sitting on jack stands. How do you level the car with jack stands being that they are not infinitely adjustable like a hydraulic jack is. Do you put shims under the jack stands until you get it level? Where do you put the level across the car to determine if it's level? There are so many round and uneven surfaces. It's not like a 2X4 that you can lay the level on if building a house for example.
I used metal plates 1/16-1/8” thick under the jack stands and even cardboard on top sometimes to fine tune the body. Now where to check becomes a bit of a trick. The pinch welds are not perfect from the factory but it is a place to start. That’s measuring side to side. From front to back the top side of the rocker in the door jam works great. Then for me the last points of reference is the body mounts at the firewall and mid way under the front seat area and last rear frame rails in the area where the front leaf spring mount is a great place to set side to side.
Now this is just my opinion and works for me but if I am within a 1/8” in comparison I call it good.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks again for the information. It will help me with my build.
I never seen a brick on a jack before😊
That brick is handy. 😎
i’ve gotten to the point where i am about to cut things out and sandblast the whole thing but… the stupid dash is stuck in and i have no clue how to get it out. how in the world did you get yours off? are there hidden bolts somewhere that i can’t see? please help🙏
Nice progress! I assume you are talking about the dash pad. If so there is four studs on the dash pad that has nuts along the front edge starting at the drivers side right next to the VIN on the dash then they go across to the passenger side. Basically if you look up on the underside of the dash where the VIN plate is pop riveted in you see the first nut. Then you have 2 Phillips head screws that are on the a-pillar and last are the pieces that drop down each side they just pop in.
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you!! i got all the screws and bolts off but the stud things that go into the metal part of the dash were stuck and basically rusted solid to the dash kinda broke them off and got the dash pad off thank you!!!! you’re definitely more helpful then all the facebook groups i’m in😂😂
Glad to help, I agree there are a lot of opinions out there for sure. I like to back mine up with proof and good info. Good to know you where able to get it apart. Best wishes on the rest of your birds recovery, and don’t hesitate to ask us first 😉
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you i’ve already gotten a lot of answers from your videos me and my dad are restoring a bird in memory of my grandpa the bird itself is in a little bit worse condition than yours. we are probably gonna need to replace our frame rails and we don’t want to cause everything to shift. we watched your video saying we could use your tool you built but we are pretty far from Indianapolis so we might build our own. keep uploading amazing videos me and my dad have been watching them ever since we got our bird you’ve definitely gotten us hooked on them we might save a few.
Saving a bird with history and family
Project is even better. I made that jig mostly because the specs are not clear or good. Even if you don’t make a jig take a lot of photos and measurements of the original frame rails for reference later. Glad to hear the videos and info is helping out. It is the reason I am doing it. Keep in touch and me updated on your progress
How long did this take you?
The entire Build to the point of this video was about 4 months. Now I have been at it just over a year
Why didn’t you replace the whole quarter?
Several reasons, trunk gutter was in great shape, sail panel great shape and door jamb excellent shape. Really no need for a full 1/4 until you get to the area by the lower tail panel. The full 1/4 has that stamped out correctly to get the small gap between the tail panel and 1/4 correct. Most of the time most cars get that area filled with body filler, I like the look of the gap more and it shows more detail to me. One of the small reasons not replace entire panel is in the front corner there is numbers stamped, only on original 1/4 panels and it’s visible with the trunk open. And I like leaving that intact when possible. Plus when I am done I get to collect several useful patch panels that are not sold separately and have been a life saver for many cars that needed only the gutter, sail panel or door jamb. I can think of 6 different people that I have just given those pieces to and now those cars are being restored
Now if more of those areas where damaged I would have replaced the entire panel. The difficulty is about the same replacing the entire 1/4 vs sections. So no real benefit there.
All the real body guys only replace what's needed. Discard the rest. The stamping may be slightly off and can cause bigger problems if you do the whole thing, the whole thing could be off. This way you maintain the original shape & positioning. It's easier to fix a slightly off section than a whole side. Hard to get a whole side perfect, this way you maintain those factory edges & shapes.
AMD?
Most of this car was AMD.