Making a Strip-Built Kayak - Hatches and Deck Hardware - E14

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  • Опубліковано 17 вер 2017
  • In this episode I cut and make the back hatch, install deck line hardware, make end pours and install the cheek plates.
    Plans to build your own Petrel Play are available at: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guill...
    The Tools used:
    Heavy Duty Paint Scraper - www.silentpaintremover.com/scr...
    Small Festool Sander: amzn.to/2uVhLFN
    Festool Rotex 125 - Rough Sanding - amzn.to/2r9TwoD
    Plastic squeegee - www.clcboats.com/shop/products...
    Electic Scissors - amzn.to/2eM2AY6
    Thanks to Kevin MacLeod for music:
    Life of Riley by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
    Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
    Artist: incompetech.com/
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 25

  • @Amy-ym5sb
    @Amy-ym5sb 4 роки тому +1

    Nick my mind is blown. Each time I watch your videos I learn a new trick

  • @wadepatton2433
    @wadepatton2433 6 років тому +1

    Aha! again. Countersink before full bore-good one. tnx Also no end pour is a great tradeoff for a plastic squeegee or two per boat. A good one indeed.

  • @dougthompson6427
    @dougthompson6427 6 років тому

    Thank you for taking time to post your videos. They have helped me so much in building my first strip kayak.

  • @BlakeLambertwondersax
    @BlakeLambertwondersax 6 років тому +1

    Master craftsman

  • @user-st9cf6qc5k
    @user-st9cf6qc5k 6 років тому +1

    thank you very much!!!!

  • @PaulHarker1958
    @PaulHarker1958 6 років тому +1

    I am assuming this would also be a good place in the build process to drill/fill for foot brace mounting holes as this wasn't shown in the videos.

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  6 років тому +1

      I usually do the holes later, during the final fill coats, but during this stage would be fine. Measure carefully.

  • @phantom10639
    @phantom10639 3 роки тому

    Any guidance on what to use for reference in terms of fore and aft placement of the cheek plates? Wouldn’t want to install and then after the build when adding the seat, finding out I put in too far aft or foreword. Thanks!

  • @allansalzman1072
    @allansalzman1072 2 роки тому

    Is that 4oz cloth you are using for the fittings?

  • @phantom10639
    @phantom10639 3 роки тому

    Do you sell the CNC-cut hatch template and the skeg control box template? I just received 2 small sheets of plywood with my CLC kit and with your book, I can make a paper hatch template, but your CNC template would be awesome!! Also, I may have missed but any video or guidance on making the skeg control box?

  • @Yacht762
    @Yacht762 4 роки тому

    Hi Nick, I’m trying to make the flush deck cleats, I’ve downloaded your drawing for these but machining an ⅛” rebate is proving difficult, I’ve succeeded in a 1/16” rebate using a ½” cutter with a ⅜” bearing guide. So far I’ve made six without success, any tips?

  • @donatellodonati4525
    @donatellodonati4525 2 роки тому

    Hi Nick, do the hatches have to be cut out after glassing or can it be done also before

  • @chipverrill5241
    @chipverrill5241 6 років тому +1

    It looks like you only glassed the hip risers (braces?) where attached to the cockpit (along with the strengthening carbon..) Did you glass the whole hip brace and I just didn't see it? Or did you just epoxy, or even less, just varnish?

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  6 років тому

      I call them “cheek plates”. They are glassed on both sides before I installed them.

  • @PaulHarker1958
    @PaulHarker1958 6 років тому +1

    What are the tradeoffs between the traditional endpour vs this method?

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  6 років тому

      This method is more controlled. Allowing you to be more conservative with the size of the pour. The only real advantage of the traditional Boat-on-end pour is it can be done any time after the kayak is complete. There is a small window when you can do the dam method, and if for some reason the timing doesn't work out for your schedule, you may have to do the boat-on-end method.

  • @dankatz1252
    @dankatz1252 6 років тому +1

    What material did you use for the hatch lip and spacer?

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  6 років тому +2

      4mm Okoume marine plywood.

    • @dankatz1252
      @dankatz1252 6 років тому +1

      thanks

    • @dankatz1252
      @dankatz1252 6 років тому

      What is your opinion on using 1/4" bcx plywood ( not marine grade) from home depot. The lip and spacer are getting epoxied and sealed after all. It's just cheaper and easier to get.

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  6 років тому

      While it wouldn't be my first choice, well sealed with epoxy and under fiberglass, it would probably work.
      1/4" is thicker and heavier than you need, but if you have no other options readily available...
      You might see if there is a WoodCraft within driving distance: www.woodcraft.com/products/baltic-birch-plywood-3mm-1-8-x-24-x-30?via=573621f469702d06760016d0

    • @dankatz1252
      @dankatz1252 6 років тому +1

      I found a plywood distributor near me that sells marine plywood. www.boulterplywood.com/ Fine prices and I was able to get the dimensions I needed. Thanks again

  • @zeevabigador1658
    @zeevabigador1658 5 років тому +1

    What makes the hatch waterproof? how do you keep it inplace so it does not pop out? Thanks

    • @NickSchade
      @NickSchade  5 років тому +1

      I use weather stripping for a gasket and nylon straps to hold down the hatch cover. All will be revealed in episode 19 ua-cam.com/video/ieXXj2xFsiE/v-deo.html