I am sure you have answered this somewhere already, but I have not yet come across it in either this series of the microBootlegger series. Do you build the keg box yourself? Or is that a part you purchase?
I make all the major skeg parts myself. Plans are available here: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/accessory_plans/sea_kayak_retractable_skeg_plans
I wanted to get the cloth filled early because if I waited I would need to sand the surface before apply a fill coat. If the weave is not filled when I sand, I would have to sand into the cloth to rough up the whole surface. I apply the fill coat before the wet out coat is fully cured so I can hold off on sanding until the whole boat is ready to be sanded.
Another great video :) Looking forward to see the completed Kayak. I see that you use a respirator mask, is there a lot of fumes from the epoxy ? Did't think it had any solvents in it like epoxy based paints. Or is it just a "safety first" caution kind a deal :) Again, your skills and kayaks are fenomenal two thumbs up. TR Norway
Epoxy does not have a lot of fumes, but there is a barely noticeable smell. I work with epoxy a lot and it is possible to get sensitized to epoxy exposure. I wear the respirator in an abundance of caution. What is probably more dangerous is to breath in the dust of partially cured epoxy. Thus you will see me wearing a respirator while sanding as well.
Jacob Woodward You can have two skews, and in some situations it may actually be useful to have two. But, I actually like things that have some asymmetry, it makes things look more interesting.
Thanks for the phenomenal videos. I am building your Petral Play now. Why do you install the outer stems after glassing the hull and connecting the hull to the deck? On this kayak it looks as though one could install the outer stems before fiberglassing since the stem does not span the hull and deck. Or am I missing something?
I wanted the outer stem to extend up into the deck area. I could have installed it earlier, but this way it makes the finished result a little bit cleaner looking.
If you were to drag the boat up or down the beach, most of the sand and gravel rubs along the keel line. If the skeg is centered on the keel line, the skeg box fills up with that sand or gravel. As a result many skegs jam up easily and often. By offsetting the skeg from the centerline it is significantly less likely to get jammed. The fact that it is offset does not adversely effect the steering or control.
What is the reason to add an extra layer of glass as its already done in episode 9. I belive the hull strength is already big. I like your videos lots of information.
The second layer of glass is primarily protection against abrasion and hitting rock. The first layer is plenty of strength for paddling in deep water, but the second layer is insurance against hitting things hard.
In other videos I've seen the stem lamination done on a temporary form. Is doing the lamination on the kayak any easier? What happens if I don't wrap the plastic tight enough and create gaps? I always enjoy you videos and can't wait till the next one comes out.
I don't know for sure that it is "easier" but since you are using the location where the stem will actually go as the form, there are fewer issues with getting a good fit. It is possible that the plastic wrap will not provide enough pressure for a tight fit, but it can create a lot of pressure, so it is unlikely. But if there is a small gap you can apply a little filler to close it up. I'm glad you like the videos. The next one is due Monday around noon.
How do you get the tape and film out of the bow and stern after the joining tape has cured? If a little green tape gets under the FG tape it might be difficlut to remove.
I have several layers of tape. After the epoxy has set up slightly, I pull the first layer of tape off, by pulling from the cockpit. This keeps the wet epoxy from getting on the tape that holds the film. After the epoxy has set completely on both sides, I just pull the film from the cockpit. It has happened that some tape got glued down. In this case, I make a sharp wooden scraper to reach down into the ends and peel up the remaining tape.
On the Petrel Play it is about 26" from the stern to the front of the box. It can be farther forward or a little bit further back but the V of the bottom starts to make it harder to fit.
I am sure you have answered this somewhere already, but I have not yet come across it in either this series of the microBootlegger series. Do you build the keg box yourself? Or is that a part you purchase?
I make all the major skeg parts myself. Plans are available here: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/accessory_plans/sea_kayak_retractable_skeg_plans
I'm curious why the cloth over the bow and stern go on after the fill coat and not before.
I wanted to get the cloth filled early because if I waited I would need to sand the surface before apply a fill coat. If the weave is not filled when I sand, I would have to sand into the cloth to rough up the whole surface. I apply the fill coat before the wet out coat is fully cured so I can hold off on sanding until the whole boat is ready to be sanded.
Another great video :) Looking forward to see the completed Kayak. I see that you use a respirator mask, is there a lot of fumes from the epoxy ? Did't think it had any solvents in it like epoxy based paints. Or is it just a "safety first" caution kind a deal :)
Again, your skills and kayaks are fenomenal two thumbs up.
TR
Norway
Epoxy does not have a lot of fumes, but there is a barely noticeable smell. I work with epoxy a lot and it is possible to get sensitized to epoxy exposure. I wear the respirator in an abundance of caution.
What is probably more dangerous is to breath in the dust of partially cured epoxy. Thus you will see me wearing a respirator while sanding as well.
I hate things that aren’t Symmetric so would putting two Skaggs affect performance in a negative way?
Jacob Woodward You can have two skews, and in some situations it may actually be useful to have two. But, I actually like things that have some asymmetry, it makes things look more interesting.
Thanks for the phenomenal videos. I am building your Petral Play now. Why do you install the outer stems after glassing the hull and connecting the hull to the deck? On this kayak it looks as though one could install the outer stems before fiberglassing since the stem does not span the hull and deck. Or am I missing something?
I wanted the outer stem to extend up into the deck area. I could have installed it earlier, but this way it makes the finished result a little bit cleaner looking.
Why is the skeg box offset from the keel line?
If you were to drag the boat up or down the beach, most of the sand and gravel rubs along the keel line. If the skeg is centered on the keel line, the skeg box fills up with that sand or gravel. As a result many skegs jam up easily and often.
By offsetting the skeg from the centerline it is significantly less likely to get jammed. The fact that it is offset does not adversely effect the steering or control.
What is the reason to add an extra layer of glass as its already done in episode 9. I belive the hull strength is already big. I like your videos lots of information.
The second layer of glass is primarily protection against abrasion and hitting rock. The first layer is plenty of strength for paddling in deep water, but the second layer is insurance against hitting things hard.
In other videos I've seen the stem lamination done on a temporary form. Is doing the lamination on the kayak any easier? What happens if I don't wrap the plastic tight enough and create gaps?
I always enjoy you videos and can't wait till the next one comes out.
I don't know for sure that it is "easier" but since you are using the location where the stem will actually go as the form, there are fewer issues with getting a good fit.
It is possible that the plastic wrap will not provide enough pressure for a tight fit, but it can create a lot of pressure, so it is unlikely. But if there is a small gap you can apply a little filler to close it up.
I'm glad you like the videos. The next one is due Monday around noon.
Beautiful work. What grit sandpapers are you using for final dry and damp sanding at the varnishing stage?
the final sanding was with 400 grit.
i'm up to the stage of installing the skeg box. Do you recall the position of it the nearest form or rear of boat?
How do you get the tape and film out of the bow and stern after the joining tape has cured? If a little green tape gets under the FG tape it might be difficlut to remove.
I have several layers of tape. After the epoxy has set up slightly, I pull the first layer of tape off, by pulling from the cockpit. This keeps the wet epoxy from getting on the tape that holds the film. After the epoxy has set completely on both sides, I just pull the film from the cockpit.
It has happened that some tape got glued down. In this case, I make a sharp wooden scraper to reach down into the ends and peel up the remaining tape.
How far from the stern is the front of the skeg box?
On the Petrel Play it is about 26" from the stern to the front of the box. It can be farther forward or a little bit further back but the V of the bottom starts to make it harder to fit.
Is it two times 160 g
I assume you are asking about the fiberglass weight. Yes, it is two layers or 160g/m^2 cloth.
Whys is the skeg offset?
It makes it less likely to get jammed full of sand and gravel sliding on a beach. The offset does not noticeably effect performance.
@@NickSchade aha! Makes sense!