Making a Strip Built Kayak - Joining Deck & Hull - E15
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- In this episode I apply three coats of varnish to the interior and then join the deck and hull.
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I have found it useful to watch the video via my 'Smart' TV while reading the comments for the episode I am watching. Also keep my copy of "The Strip-Built Sea Kayak" at my side to add notes. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Maybe you’ve thought of this trick or maybe you haven’t, but taping a $2 flashlight onto the stick means there’s always light exactly where you need it to be. I figured out that trick when I was ... ummm ... 90% done.
Good idea. I have not tried that yet. Sounds like its worth giving a go.
Put fiber glass inside - that does not look easy!
Thank you so much for going trough the trouble of making this series. Trust me, it's 100% worth it considering how immensely important source of information it is for those who need it.
I have a question. My deck and hull do not line up. there is as much as a inch and a half to two inch gap between the two. the amount of brute force I have applied has made cracking sounds. I think it is the glue between the strips but I don't think I can force them apart enough to get them to line up. Any suggestions?
Your kayak shop looks like mine, there are stuff everywhere
Nick why do you not extend the interior tape all the way to each end? Thank you again for posting these videos.
It becomes impractical to get the seam tape into the nether regions of the boat where the space is small and tight. And in a design like this Petrel Play it is around the curve of the sheer. The end pour takes care of the very tip. There may be a short gap between the end of the tape and the end pour, but as a practical matter the forces in the ends will be small, and there will be an exterior seam tape.
Here are three questions: How do you deal with working on your own all day? How do you market the kayaks? What do you do while waiting for epoxy to cure?
There is not much for me to "deal with" in regards to working alone. I enjoy working on my own. I do try to schedule some social life into my week, but my wife often works from home as well so I'm rarely alone for all that long. The hardest part is deciding which of the countless things that needs doing needs to be done first.
I market primarily through the internet, some trade shows, teaching, writing, and making UA-cam videos. I used to run print ads in various publications, but I've almost completely abandoned that as not cost effective. The justification for the time spent on this video series is an experiment in marketing.
I usually leave the shop after applying large areas of epoxy to limit exposure and to protect against making a mess of it. There are a variety of things that need to be done to maintain a business: see marketing above, designing new boats, creating plans, providing tech support, studying, etc. Of course, there is the endless black hole of social media in which to waste time as well.
One more quick question - I just put the fiberglass tape along one seam., using 6oz tape and MAS slow cure epoxy. I will go tomorrow morning to do the other side. It was a real struggle to get the two halves together. The hull had relaxed and was about 1" wider on each side of the cockpit and rear hatch. With some shaping, then webbing, blocks, rachets, tons of tape and a lot of grunt work, we got the two parts together. How long should I wait before taking off the tape that's holding the boat together on the outside? I'm afraid that it is going to break the fiberglass because of the tension that it is under! Thanks!
As long as the epoxy is hard to the touch you should be good to remove the tape.
Just finished joining my "Play" at 2am this morning! You saved me asking Nick the same question on the epoxy cure time (though I'm using RAKA epoxy) I'm presuming that epoxy is fairly generic. I finished a Great Auk double last year with similar relaxed hull to deck connection. ratchets, blocks, tape... just like you. I was fearful like you... fear not, I'm sure you'll be fine!
Thanks! I got it together. There might have been a moment when I wanted to just sit on the floor and cry in total disbelief, but it worked! And the epoxy held! Yesterday I finished up the exterior seam tape and a final fill coat on the deck (I combined these steps into a single day). Now all that's left is a final sanding and varnish. So exciting! Good luck with your boat!
Excellent video as always!
Would it be nesecary to add a solid area under the seat , I mean when you get in and out with one foot that's alot of weight on one foot , pounds per sq. Inch ?
There is enough strength in the standard layup for you to stand on the bottom without it breaking
Do you typically varnish the interior joint tape?
No, but it wouldn't be a bad idea. I just typically get lazy at that point.
Grate video like always! I planing to soon starting to make my first kayak. But I have little suggestion. I have some experience with reparations polyester glass boat, and when time come for assembly it's much easiest to role glass tape with resin on handle from painting roller, and then role off on boat.
Hi David,
I'm sure it would be easier to unroll the tape off a paint roller, but the paint roller would not fit all the way into the end where the tape needs to go.
As usual, amazing build and your designs are stellar. My first build was a Great Auk and I still use it regularly paddling off the Florida Keys. Your boats belong in a museum (and also on the water).
Hi Nick, what did you do between the last episode and this one to clean up the edge of the deck? When you left off there was a bunch of extra fabric hanging off the deck edge from the inside.
Perhaps i missed it, but what do you use to degloss ? Regular sandpaper or rubbing or ?
I use a scotchbrite pad
I couldn't imagine you swearing. Haha. I thought you'd have more subs than this. This is really great stuff.
hi Nick what tape did you use? Fibre reinforced? What brand? I have had difficulty finding some.
I use 3M 893 fiberglass filament tape. It is strong, sticks well and peels clean.
@@NickSchade wow that stuff is expensive
Having the masking tape as runway lights must really help, taping that inside seam doesn't look quite so terrifying. Great job, as always.
OK ! :-)
So nice to see the hard earned lessons of a guy that knows what he's doing. Thanks for that, from all of us.
Do you not put any varnish on the cheek plates? What about the hatch lid interiors? Thank you!
Yes, the cheek plates and hatch interiors are all varnished.
I just put on my first coat of varnish and it's looking good, but I realized that my blue tape is only 1.4" wide. When I go to fiberglass the two halves together, my fiberglass tape is 3" wide. Do I not need to worry about some of the fiberglass tape going over the varnish on the edges or should I add an extra piece of tape before I do my second coat so that there is a wider margin? Thanks! It's exciting to be getting closer to putting the boat in the water!
The masking tape is not required at all. I use it just to keep from making a mess. I figure out where to put the tape and how wide based on how messy I think the process will be.
It never hurts to mask off more area than you think you will need.
Thanks for the video! :)
Any reason you don’t cut out the forward hatch before joining deck and hull? It would be easier to work through the forward hatch when joining the hull and deck, I think..?
I did cut and install the hatch before joining the deck and hull.
Nick Schade , I was thinking about a hatch in front of the cockpit. But it seems like this kayak only have one hatch :)
I guess, if there were two hatches, one would cut out both before joing the hulls? :)
Thanks again for your videos :)
Yes, I opted for no front hatch. Otherwise I would have cut both at the same time.
@@NickSchade curious why most Petrel Plays forego the forward hatch? Do you use a floatation bag in the bow instead? And also, interested in your thoughts on invisible hatch old downs? Looks like you like the straps with stand off method. Assume you drill/fill the holes for these when you drill/fill for foot braces?
@@phantom10639 for a small kayak like this, that is being used primarily for day trips, a forward hatch just doesn’t get used much. It just saves time and effort to not add a forward hatch. Use float bags for safety.
Great video. Your footage of taping the inside was wonderful. I must say that this step is one I am most apprehensive about, but this footage makes it seem quite doable.
It also helps that he messed up on purpose. Nice to know its easier and better to start over then fretting and messing with the tape while the epoxy dries.