Making a Strip Built Kayak - Making the Coaming - E11
Вставка
- Опубліковано 31 лип 2017
- In this episode I make the coaming, starting with the riser, glassing the outside, and then laminating and shaping the lip.
Plans to build your own Petrel Play are available at: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guill...
The Tools used:
Utility Cutter: amzn.to/2vpwM5O
Small Festool Sander: amzn.to/2uVhLFN
Japanese Pull Saw: amzn.to/2ufQsnQ
Thick CA Glue: amzn.to/2f5dOud
Think CA Glue: amzn.to/2ugCUIq
CA Acclerant: amzn.to/2ug3fX6
HD Hot Melt Glue Gun: amzn.to/2f4IM5S
Thanks to Kevin MacLeod for music:
Life of Riley by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/ - Навчання та стиль
Amazing how much effort you put into all of this and hardly any views. MAKE THIS MAN UA-cam FAMOUS. Great work!
your book The Strip-Built Sea Kayak arrived. a new project for this autumn. Much greetings from Budva Montenegro
Smart hearted. He does this with his HEART!
Many thanks for the master class.
hello from Córdoba Argentina . Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I hope someday to have the money and tools necessary to carry out a project like this. I wish the translator was not so bad, good luck!
Phuuu all 11 episodes in one go :) Love it. Been looking for a new project after my 4 year house build is done this week. This fits the bill :) Will be picking up a set of plans and go to work in Oktober.
Thanks for the inspirational video and in depth explanation.
Best
T.Robertsen
Norway.
Thank you for the kind words. I hope I can get back on schedule with more episodes to finish out the build so you have a reference as you build your kayak.
Nick Schade how do The Color in The wood hold up in use over The years. Does it fade??
Yes, the wood color does change with time. Dark colors become a bit lighter and light colors become a bit darker. They don't change completely, but the contrast may be reduced.
awesome
Filleting Schmutz! 7:01
_NOW_ we're getting down to brass tacks. 8-P
7:22
Lifehack: I use cheap 1" long fur brush and solvent, basically acetone, to smooth fillets after spatula.
Lightly wet brush in acetone and gently paint the fillets to smooth them nice. That works fine and there it no need to send much/
I use alcohol to do that, but in this case I am applying fiberglass immediately to the wet fillet and wetting it out with more epoxy, so the solvent treatment is not necessary and there will not be much sanding.
I would recommend denatured alcohol over acetone because acetone is a fairly nasty solvent from a health perspective and the alcohol is a bit safer.
Hello Nick I have already made a guillemot Long and a Great Auk. I should have watched these videos first it would have saved me alot of trial and error, especially with the fiberglass.
Hi Nick, I noticed you didn't put fiberglass on the underside of the forward coaming piece you spliced in. Did you just not show that step or do you think it's not necessary.
Thank you
Hi Nick! I’m building the Microbootlegger tandem from CLC. My first boat and lots of fun so far. I’m at the point where I need to start the coaming, which seems straightforward until I get to the laminate lip. What is the best way to find or create those 1/16” mahogany laminates? They didn’t come with my kit and I feel stuck.
Very interesting. I like the "dry laminating" to create the spray skirt rim. Just makes so much sense. Do you rip the thin strips for the rim, are they veneers, or some other clever method? Many thanks as always.
I rip the thin strips in much the same way I make the cedar strips. On a table saw with a zero tolerance blade insert. I have used veneer in the past. It does work.
Maybe late to the party but here's my question. Working on a little auk 11 using you videos and the strip built kayak book for guidance. Is the coaming recess (page 97) required to receive the coaming itself? Or can I just install the vertical coaming strips to the strips on the deck?
You can install the vertical strips without the recess. This will make for a coaming lip that forms a peak at the front and back. If you have the Kayak Building Notes that came with the plans, you will see an idea for a little mini recess at front and back which makes it easier to form a coaming lip that is smooth and rounded at front and back.
@@NickSchade thanks for the reply, I’ll check the building notes and get to work.
The coaming lip gets fiberglassed on the bottom side before getting glued to the riser, but not the small front piece that gets added on last. Would it be overkill to fiberglass under this small piece before gluing it to the boat? I feel like this part of the lip would take a lot of stress. Thanks, as always!
No, it would not be over kill. I often wrap fiberglass around the whole lip from to top side to the underside. It does make it pretty bomb proof.
Qual madeira foi utilizada no projeto ?
I'm on to this step with my full-length Petrel. I have a couple of questions - Can I use the cove and bead strips to build the coaming riser or do I need to plane off the cove and bead for this? Also, where do you recommend getting the mahogany laminations to build the lip? It would be awesome if you guys would include this in the kit. They looked at my like an alien when I went to get some hardwood milled for the outer stems, but I suspect that they won't be able to make me such thin laminations as I would need for this lip. I don't have the tools to mill it myself.
Hi Karmi, Yes, you can use the cove and bead strips. They will save you a lot of planing. I work with the cove out, when I get to the last strip, I use a block plane to make the bead on the other edge.
CLC should have supplied you with coaming material. I am not sure exactly what they include, while it may not be mahogany, there should be some suitable material in the kit.
Perfect, thank you so much for the info! I just sanded down the opening and cut a basket full of 2" strips, so this week I'll build the coaming. I'll contact CLC tomorrow to ask about the coaming material. There is some extra okoume plywood in the kit, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough and it's only a small square.
For others, luthier's supply like Luthier Mercantile sells numerous varieties of thin laminations for guitar builders. Would those work for lip and other accent strips?
@@jstermitz I found some great options at certainlywood.com They sell wood for creating veneers, cut into thin sheets and great variety.
One more quick question - The laminations are 1/16" thick and there are 12 of them, but what width do you recommend? Looks like maybe 3/8 or 1/2" wide?
The laminations are 1/6" x 1/4" by however long. The finished lip is about 3/16" x 3/4".
Thank you! By the way, I didn't have enough strips nor the tools to cut the laminations with anything from the CLC kit, but I found some 1/16" thick mahogany veneer without any backing from certainlywood.com
Just thought I'd post it here in case anyone else is looking for what to use!
It is an unfortunate fact that the methods and materials I currently use to build kayaks for a customer is a little different than the methods and materials I was using when CLC worked out the contents of the kit. You should have material suitable for making the coaming lip in the kit, but its likely different than what I used in this Petrel Play build.
CertainlyWood is a good source of high quality veneer. You should be able to something nice with their material.
For some reason the transcript of this episode (11) on your blog is incorrectly the transcript for episode 13.
Thanks for catching that. I'll fix it.
What is the total hours you have in this boat? Do you make two at a time?
I'm not good at keeping track of hours, but this was my primary occupation for about 4 months. I typically work on just one boat at at time.
Nick Schade, this one boat was four months?
From start to finish, it was about 4 months. I actually cut the strips in July 2016 and finished in December. But I didn't really get going on working on the boat until September. There were some breaks in there.
Things like watching glue dry can stretch out the process. The action in this video of making the coaming happened over the course of 4 days. Also during that time I worked on glassing the hull, which will be on the next video. I've re-ordered the action to make it easier to follow.
Nick Schade thank you. I can't stop watching this stuff!
Schmutz... LOL
I’m sorry for disliking your video I just don’t want your videos to keep popping up in the algorithm, don’t take it personally
Its OK. At this stage in my life I have come to understand that there are weird people out there who are not interested in building kayaks.