Basic Traditional Gear Placements
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- Опубліковано 22 бер 2019
- This is is for outlining the fundamentals of traditional gear placements, to help people out with examples of good and bad placements with the most common type of trad gear I.e. cams and stoppers. I’ll talk about more “exotic,” forms of trade gear in some future videos.
I've filtered through so many trad starter videos and they just follow UA-cam cookie cutter formats. THIS. This video is a gold mine of clean, concise, no frills, straightforward information. I learned more from this than the hours I've spent reading climbing books and watching how to videos. Well done dude.
Favorite line: (when setting nut to direction of pull) “so ummm, generally in climbing we fall down.” Lmao
I just got my first rack and have been watching plenty of gear placement videos on UA-cam. Yours has been the best I’ve come across by far. Your clarity, depth, and obvious experience make me feel much more comfortable getting out there and climbing.
Keep up the great work man
Dude ,your awesome ! I paid hundreds to get this knowledge. This was perfect.
The way you said 'motorcycles' 🤣 LEGEND 🙏
Ryan, your videos are excellent. Keep up the great work!
I would highly recommend placing with a significant downward pull on cams. This past weekend a dmm #5 saved my life but in twisting from a slightly outward pull to a direct downward pull it broke the cam by unequally loading the lobes.
Good vid man, It has helped me. I like the what not to do bits!
Perfekt explanation. Great video. Thanks!
Nice Video! Very well explained.
Just got done watching Reel Rock 14. Very interesting. Thanks
Appreciate this video a lot, cheers man!
Ya buddy keep up the awsome videos
Great class. Thanx!
Solid, I would point out loading angles of cams, which may vary a lot.
solid instruction
Thanks Bud
8:00 "You also want the lobes, all four of them to be equal with each other"
Totems: *I missed the part where that's my problem*
Thank you for the instruction!
This was great, do you have a video on offset cams and stoppers for flaring cracks?
aud 21 yes I do, it’s going to be released on my channel real soon, so stay tuned!
I’m reading the John long book on gear placement rn - I’ve yet to trad climb but plan to take a class - I read that most failures are do to placement on poor rock (flake, etc) that the rock fails 😬 - if true worth emphasizing - great contact and all else line up but not strong rock 😬 - also I live in the southeastern US - it seems hard to find a trad instructor so far
Ya, it can be hard to find some folks in that part of America, you may have to head into another state depending on where you are. Keep looking though, that professional instruction is irreplaceable!
@@ryantilley9063 Go to the Red River Gorge
Second hole is definetly a danger zone!
someone told me cams are safer when you put tem further inside, ¿is this true?
For the most part yes, but if you have good contact area and good rock then you can put them in a bit more of a shallower position and they’ll be just fine.
What is the downside of over overextending the slings too often??
It's just more crap for you and your partner to deal with, also you run the risk of using all your tools up in places where you don't need them. So when you get to a place where you would need an alpine draw you may not have one.
Where would you go in Western WA (ideally near Seattle) to practice gear placements?
British ailes at exit 32 is a great place to practice trad placements, it’s pretty easy to go around the top and get a top rope in if you want that for a backup also. Index in the great northern slab area is pretty good too, even vantage has a lot to work with on the ground to practice some placements.
@@ryantilley9063 awesome! Thanks
Are you in Tucson?
Mt Lemmon?
Won't buffer past 1:57! Tried it on 2 different devices, both on different networks/accounts.
Anyone else having the same problem?
Nope
Me neither
3:20 absolutely brother. i would no doubt argue the conspiracy of four corners to Mr. President Trump! haha and you’re the only person i’ve told this too, but on God....
the only experience that i have with even a harness/rope attesting; was about 8 years ago at a YMCA Camp in between Roaring Gap and Sparta NC. Coined the name Camp Cheerio& while i was 15-16 ish age; i was sailing 5.11a that was an outdoor wood structure 95 degree start & 120degree overhang with an age restricted class of 8 a year to be apart of the “high ropes” course age 12+. i’ve yet to rebound in a harness since then, and am itching. i’ve had nightmares of free soloing literally halfway up the sears tower..... of anything, that?? i’ve never flown on a plane. much less left anything more than the Carolinas. if i could find anyone on the east coast with gear since i can’t.. like you even said, “don’t expect to have even 1 of every cam when you first start, go out with others who have more experience and use the gear they do.” no one smart can sport three of each cam or such because they will get karma and not ever pass 5.5
You didn't really get too detailed on this, how much do you climb because I seen several creveces on that rock spaces that would have worked better in the demonstration but you chose the worst one ...
Perhaps he chose the placement to demonstrate non-perfect cracks. Didn't seem to make a difference to the presentation
Why don't you just climb up 15 feet plant a nut and start jumping around on that shit and truly test the gear man! Have you seen K2?
Some good placements here surrounded by a lot of incomplete personal opinion. At no point did you show the very best way to use and place the gear, only how you think you should be using it.
There are better ways to learn pro placement than watching this vid.
Should have started with the 'take a class' advice.