I've never been a fan of Jeep. Until I found MTOD and watched you enjoy every Jeep you wrenched on or drove. Now I have to have one. I would love to one day build a TJ similar to yours. Seems like the perfect all around driver not over the top trail rig machine.
toolman I bought a rough 97 TJ in Australia because of Motortrend, in Australia everyone goes for the diesel dual cab Jap pickups/utes. Jeeps are way cheaper secondhand here
Nice explanation of setup/components, good video (clear for description), and nice Jeep. I just recently got a similar jeep, so it's nice to see this. *thumbs up*
This was a treat... there are most likely all sorts of contracts and lawyerly shit to deal with but one of these a week or biweek would get you a lot of viewers
Freiburger ! Holy cow !... You're building a poor man's rail dragster w the Crew Cab cart. Already got the Dana or 14 bolt and jetison the weight/body. Engine behind driver. Factory rails long enough on the C/C. Blistering idea duckwater.. creativity on point!!!
It's called Videomania. Shooting Roadkills and RK-extras'n EngineMasters daily, if you've missed a 5 minutes of time without taping it, those 5 are pretty much lost. I really and truly respect and appropriate all Your and your team hard work but I always wonder looking at You being so exhausted. When and Why you don't take a pause for a nice few hours to take a nap and eat fresh and healthy food. Cause no one would live long in such tempo, and me personally'd prefer to have long years of all Your video content :). Be healthy, be strong, have fun and be happy. All the best to you, your family and your video team!
A couple things I thought about while watching: 1. This test should really be done with the shocks removed and a tape measure. 2. Compression side: you want your max compression where the bump-stop cannot compress any further, generally metal on metal with the factory crap foam bump stops. If the shock bottoms before you compress that bump-stop all the way, you can blow the shock out. I would suggest figuring your bump-stop height first, then measure shock compressed length and leave 1/4" or 1/2"for safety. Cross reference this measurement with a shock size chart and get the longest shock that fits that measurement. If not, worst case scenario, you will over compress the bumpstop and rip off that fender flare, possibly rubbing the tire and worst case, cutting it. 3. Good video :-P
I would suggest that you add a 1/2"-3/4 bump stop riser to the axle or a longer bump stop to the frame. Reason is, though you are planning to add a 3/4" coil spacer, at compression, your static compression, the shock is bottoming out and the bump stop is barely touching the axle mount along with the tires touching the sheetmetal. With that 3/4" coil spacer, the coil length hasn't changed so there will be still more compression of the coil. This is static...meaning, push to the limit and sit. Dynamically, when you actually are moving, there is more travel during compression due to the forces while moving..the shock will compress more as the tire moves the sheetmetal. The bump stop will start to create compression resistance. The coil will compress more. With all these points still moving at some point during the dynamic compression, something will bind enough to stop it. Usually its the shock and shock mount. As you keep driving, this fatigues and usually the mount deforms or breaks off the axle. I would suggest, you want to have 3/4" of shock compression capability during static compression to compensate for dynamics. You can add a small tie wrap to see where the shock body stops on the center rod of the shock to determine the full compression. Though, I would do that with smaller tires or trim the sheetmetal enough to clear those bad offset wide wheels. From the video, looks like you can tuck that tire farther inward and still clear the frame. I would look at the top of the tire in contact with the upper wheelwell/flare to determine how much room is up there. I wheel a TJ on 1" Rubicon LJ coils (mine is a 4cyl basic SE), 2" poly coil spacers. I have 1" bump stop risers on the axle (like you in terms of coil retention plate), and 1" longer poly bump stops. I run 15x7 rims on 3.75" bs on 35x12.5-15 KM2s and due to the shock, I have to limit the uptravel to get the most out of down travel. I have plenty of room for more compression with the tire setup but my tire compresses under the Rubicon flare easily.
David. I have always had the understanding that you don't want the shock to be completely collapsed as this can cause damage to the shock. Instead you want about an inch of exposed shaft as a safety measure. From what it looks like, you need to add more rear bump stop to keep them from fully compressing.
Good info . I own a 69 FJ40 mostly bone stock with 2" lift shackles. My Hagerty insurance prevents me from modifying the suspension and engine. It will be at the Zip Tie Drags this month. I also have '70 FJ40 in rough condition minus engine and trans. This one will get a SB350 and trans /transfer case from an FJ60, several inches of lift and at least 35" tires. I only need 3 things to finish that project: time, energy and money. LOL!
That always bothered me about the TJ I had, the amount the coils could move around. I know it wasn't hurting anything, plus I was cheap as heck and just bought a no name spacer lift off of Craigslist. Mine was a 2000 4.0/32RH that I got for $1500 with a bad trans. Made a decent little off road toy with a 8.8 swap (Artec kit used) and a Aussie locker in the rear. Found a near new set of Cooper AT3 32" tires, and got them installed, mounted, and balanced for $200. It was a fun project until it tried to kill me. Plus at 6'4" I was a little tall for it.
Good video. Explained well. Nice simple, useful build. Nothing to, to over the top crazy. Just right. Was surprised at the weight. Heavy duty parts add up tho.
Two things that you need to address: 1. Shocks should never totally bottom out b/c it damages the internals. 2. You need to take the arch out of your coils by relocating the upper spring perches. Cut them free and repositioning them back towards the rear so that the bump stops align again.
The bump stop is suppose to prevent shocks from bottoming out. When you slam the shock all the way in .. It can damage the seal on the shaft. Just a FYI FRYBUGAR
Love danatrac axles. D60's threw 80's are awesome. You should see if a road kill garage budget will pay for some fox 2.0 remote reservoir shocks and maybe a 4.6 stroker crank or centrifugal super charger!!! It would be a nice break from V8's constantly. Just a idea, love the jeep I'm a massive Chrysler fan. Just threw out a V10 engine like your dodge has, I'd love to show you some pics, the engine leaned out on 2 cyl while driving and the ring end gap closed up, piston tried to stop in the bore at 2200rpm pistons totally shattered and the rods with cross pin still in it were flailing around in the bore for 50 miles...sorry for the tangent lol it was a RK moment
David Freiburger just a heads up those V10's have ECM issues, it happens a lot where it'll lean out and typically melt a piston or 2. So keep a eye on yours, if emissions wasn't a thing for you there is a carb conversion out there for the 8.0 But seriously see if RK garage will buy you some fox shocks and some motor work, that'd be a cool show. Lots of folks are off-road-stupid so they'd learn something. Hope to see more of the jeep, TJ eras are one of my favorite modern jeeps. JK is a 4wd minivan as far as I'm concerned
How are you liking the Cooper MAXX's? I'm looking at these to replace the KO/2's on the truck I just picked up. Also pick up a set of limit straps, you never wont the shock to bottom out in its travel. It's job is to stop unwanted wheel and axle movement, not be your bump stops/travel limiter.
How are you liking the Cooper S/T Maxx tires on the Jeep? I've been considering those for my YJ for a couple years. I've always run BFG Mud-Terrains and All-Terrains on my '91 YJ and even a set of BFG Radial T/A for a few years. Would love to hear your opinion on those Coopers since I know you have run BFG before and would know how they compare. Thanks.
good video for measuring shock length, but the shocks should not be limiting the suspension compression, where you say the shock is completely bottomed out, but the bump stop is barely touching, it should be the opposite!
I almost never comment on videos but I wanted to make a point here, which Sævar Örn Eiríksson has also made, and did a good job explaining. There is lot of misinformation out there about suspension, and what was said about the shock and bumpstop needs to be corrected. The shock should NEVER bottom out, ever. That's how you break shocks and shock mounts (and more). Also, when setting up travel, the rubber part of the bumpstop doesn't matter, take it out of the equation (remove it). The rubber is soft and with the force that can come down on it, it can easily (EASILY!) completely compress. The only correct way to measure for shocks is to bottom out the suspension (without the rubber part) so the metal on the axle is against the metal on the bumpstop cup. At that point, your shock can be almost bottomed out but not completely. Also, not that with Jeep suspension, and other solid axle vehicles, the shock measurement will be different if both L&R sides bottom out at the same time, VS. if only one side is bottomed out, like in the video. So it's important to cycle the suspension both ways (both sides bottomed out together & one side bottomed out and the other side drooping), and make sure your shock never bottoms out. My shocks are not in the stock location any more, but as an example, if I set up my shock mounts with both sides bottomed out (metal against metal), and then articulate the axle so one side is bottomed out and the other side drooping, the side bottomed out now has about 3/4" more shaft showing on the shock. So if I had set my shocks up to be the "correct length" as shown in this video (one side bottomed, one side drooping), then when both sides compress at the same time, my shock would bottom out about 3/4" before the bumpstops limit my travel. One easy trick, put a small/medium zip tie (tie wrap) around the shock shaft (just snug enough so it doesn't fall down with gravity). If the zip tie gets pushed all the way down the shaft, your suspension might not be set up correctly. If the zip tie gets smashed, your suspension is definitely not set up right. Lots of people think it's ok for shocks to limit travel (act as bumpstops), and maybe people get lucky for a while (or they never really go off road). But this is not correct and will break something eventually. Sævar Örn Eiríksson is correct and made a great point. I just wanted to expound a little.
I noticed the rear shocks turned around, how's come? The shocks on my TJ say for the body of the shock to be down, would it make a difference if I flipped them?
Shouldn't your bumb stop be hitting before the shock is fully bottomed out? Because fully bottoming out or fully extending the shock bad for it? Isnt that why most off road rigs have big hydraulic bump stops for full compression and then a strap bolted to the top and bottom of the shock to stop full extention? I know you said your shocks where old anyway and where going to be replaced.
hey dave sweet jeep. figured with all that hot rod money you'd be rollin in a range rover. i kid... glad to see you doing some down time having fun. now how about time on your ford coupe?
Hey David, is the engine still stock? I just added a Boostedtech supercharger kit to my ‘99 and love the power. Sounds like a good episode of Engine Masters!!
Dude, you need to talk to Blaine Johnson of Black Magic brakes. He specializes in these jeeps and doesn’t do any tacky shit like you’re trying to do with it. He uses Currie enterprises and his stuff is top shelf.
Great to see that you still use this channel after 4 years if no action on here.
morphman21 yeah I didn’t even know I was subscribed
I've never been a fan of Jeep. Until I found MTOD and watched you enjoy every Jeep you wrenched on or drove. Now I have to have one. I would love to one day build a TJ similar to yours. Seems like the perfect all around driver not over the top trail rig machine.
toolman I bought a rough 97 TJ in Australia because of Motortrend, in Australia everyone goes for the diesel dual cab Jap pickups/utes. Jeeps are way cheaper secondhand here
You were the last one i expected to upload a video,not complaining tho
Like the Jeep Freiburger hope you upload more on this channel.
Glad to see this channel being used again hopefully more to come
You're such an awesome person. One day I hope to have at least half of the vast automotive knowledge you've obtained.
Wow first vid is 4 years glad to see you here man
Great explanation on how to analyze you suspension components when an axle is fully articulated. And WOW! That is a heavy Jeep.
wasn't expecting a video from this channel in a while
Nothing looks better offroad than a jeep... and in my opinion especially a jeep TJ
It's nice to see you spend some time away from the job and experiment with your own toys. Great video!!
Nice explanation of setup/components, good video (clear for description), and nice Jeep. I just recently got a similar jeep, so it's nice to see this. *thumbs up*
Great video, very informative and easy to understand, can wait to see more. Good job
This was a treat... there are most likely all sorts of contracts and lawyerly shit to deal with but one of these a week or biweek would get you a lot of viewers
My idol finally uploaded a new video? Instantly likes*
Freiburger ! Holy cow !... You're building a poor man's rail dragster w the Crew Cab cart. Already got the Dana or 14 bolt and jetison the weight/body. Engine behind driver. Factory rails long enough on the C/C. Blistering idea duckwater.. creativity on point!!!
Closeoutracer Thanks! We will soon see how heavy it still is.
Good job brothers Dave n Steve.
It's called Videomania. Shooting Roadkills and RK-extras'n EngineMasters daily, if you've missed a 5 minutes of time without taping it, those 5 are pretty much lost. I really and truly respect and appropriate all Your and your team hard work but I always wonder looking at You being so exhausted. When and Why you don't take a pause for a nice few hours to take a nap and eat fresh and healthy food. Cause no one would live long in such tempo, and me personally'd prefer to have long years of all Your video content :). Be healthy, be strong, have fun and be happy. All the best to you, your family and your video team!
A couple things I thought about while watching:
1. This test should really be done with the shocks removed and a tape measure.
2. Compression side: you want your max compression where the bump-stop cannot compress any further, generally metal on metal with the factory crap foam bump stops. If the shock bottoms before you compress that bump-stop all the way, you can blow the shock out. I would suggest figuring your bump-stop height first, then measure shock compressed length and leave 1/4" or 1/2"for safety. Cross reference this measurement with a shock size chart and get the longest shock that fits that measurement. If not, worst case scenario, you will over compress the bumpstop and rip off that fender flare, possibly rubbing the tire and worst case, cutting it.
3. Good video :-P
Love this kind of video. I'm a big jeep fan. Please video your jeepventures!
I would suggest that you add a 1/2"-3/4 bump stop riser to the axle or a longer bump stop to the frame. Reason is, though you are planning to add a 3/4" coil spacer, at compression, your static compression, the shock is bottoming out and the bump stop is barely touching the axle mount along with the tires touching the sheetmetal. With that 3/4" coil spacer, the coil length hasn't changed so there will be still more compression of the coil. This is static...meaning, push to the limit and sit. Dynamically, when you actually are moving, there is more travel during compression due to the forces while moving..the shock will compress more as the tire moves the sheetmetal. The bump stop will start to create compression resistance. The coil will compress more. With all these points still moving at some point during the dynamic compression, something will bind enough to stop it. Usually its the shock and shock mount. As you keep driving, this fatigues and usually the mount deforms or breaks off the axle.
I would suggest, you want to have 3/4" of shock compression capability during static compression to compensate for dynamics. You can add a small tie wrap to see where the shock body stops on the center rod of the shock to determine the full compression. Though, I would do that with smaller tires or trim the sheetmetal enough to clear those bad offset wide wheels.
From the video, looks like you can tuck that tire farther inward and still clear the frame. I would look at the top of the tire in contact with the upper wheelwell/flare to determine how much room is up there.
I wheel a TJ on 1" Rubicon LJ coils (mine is a 4cyl basic SE), 2" poly coil spacers. I have 1" bump stop risers on the axle (like you in terms of coil retention plate), and 1" longer poly bump stops. I run 15x7 rims on 3.75" bs on 35x12.5-15 KM2s and due to the shock, I have to limit the uptravel to get the most out of down travel. I have plenty of room for more compression with the tire setup but my tire compresses under the Rubicon flare easily.
I would recommend an inch longer shock and limiting straps. Good flex!
crazy4offroad Yeah, that’s better
nice to see you finally uploaded a video , keep em coming. nice job.
I wish you would do more Jeep stuff. I enjoy your posts.
David. I have always had the understanding that you don't want the shock to be completely collapsed as this can cause damage to the shock. Instead you want about an inch of exposed shaft as a safety measure. From what it looks like, you need to add more rear bump stop to keep them from fully compressing.
Lj Saldana
I was always told and if put into practice 1/4 to 1/2 inch but yes I agree completely. You need more Bump Stop!
Looking forward to more TJ updates, keep'em coming!
Ah glad to see still a Jeep guy
Good info . I own a 69 FJ40 mostly bone stock with 2" lift shackles. My Hagerty insurance prevents me from modifying the suspension and engine. It will be at the Zip Tie Drags this month. I also have '70 FJ40 in rough condition minus engine and trans. This one will get a SB350 and trans /transfer case from an FJ60, several inches of lift and at least 35" tires. I only need 3 things to finish that project: time, energy and money. LOL!
What a good explanation. Straight to the point.
That thing is set up just about perfect.
haha very surprised to see a video from this channel today, do you plan on uploading more now?
Very informative would love to see more videos on what you end up buying and how you set it up.
Keep the videos coming on this channel it's awesome
That always bothered me about the TJ I had, the amount the coils could move around. I know it wasn't hurting anything, plus I was cheap as heck and just bought a no name spacer lift off of Craigslist. Mine was a 2000 4.0/32RH that I got for $1500 with a bad trans. Made a decent little off road toy with a 8.8 swap (Artec kit used) and a Aussie locker in the rear. Found a near new set of Cooper AT3 32" tires, and got them installed, mounted, and balanced for $200. It was a fun project until it tried to kill me. Plus at 6'4" I was a little tall for it.
Awesome build man gives me hope for my ZJ haha! Hungry Valley is awesome and I can't wait for KOH in a few weeks
Hell yeah bring on the Jeep vids. I wish you would take over a Jeep we show for motortrend.
Jeep roots run deep. More please!
Your channel needs more content Freiburger! 👍🏻
Love the Jeep Freiburger! Do a walk around of your v10 ram one of these days.
Thanks for the detailed explanation, it was very informative and helpful.
Hopefully you'll ad some more videos of your Jeep's. I'd like to hear you point of view of offroaders
I love these short info videos!
It’s got to be nice to drive something decent once in a while! Who could imagine a TJ would feel like a Cadillac!
good to see you again man.
Dave! Keep with videos like this. Embrace your roots. Spend some time away from roadkill and for yourself.
i love seeing videos of your jeep, keep posting pls!
Love this guy. Would love to see more Jeep vids
I just noticed at the end that this is at Gorman. That’s so cool
Hungry Valley, yeah
Good video.
Explained well. Nice simple, useful build. Nothing to, to over the top crazy. Just right.
Was surprised at the weight. Heavy duty parts add up tho.
Nice info here DF, at least I know what to look for now.
Wait a minute. Do I have to pay to see this?
Sure Freiberger needs to buy a new shocks :-D
No you dont, but if you pay you can see them a month prior.
Would enjoy it if you could post specs or do quick vid on your TJ. likes, dislikes, why you chose brand x this/that, plans, wishlist stuff.
Two things that you need to address:
1. Shocks should never totally bottom out b/c it damages the internals.
2. You need to take the arch out of your coils by relocating the upper spring perches. Cut them free and repositioning them back towards the rear so that the bump stops align again.
Playin in the jeep while mike and tony break stubby bob hehe.
Glad to see you uploading.....time for maybe a used long arm upgrade....in the name of frugality
Trim the fenders and just flange and dzus them.
Brent Wolff we'll just flange it and dzus it back on, it'll be mint!
love it, and by it, I mean that you have a vehicle that isn't 40yrs old and rusting apart :)
* Comes out of mountain cave to see the light *
"It has been four years"
The bump stop is suppose to prevent shocks from bottoming out. When you slam the shock all the way in .. It can damage the seal on the shaft. Just a FYI FRYBUGAR
Agree.
Love danatrac axles. D60's threw 80's are awesome. You should see if a road kill garage budget will pay for some fox 2.0 remote reservoir shocks and maybe a 4.6 stroker crank or centrifugal super charger!!! It would be a nice break from V8's constantly. Just a idea, love the jeep I'm a massive Chrysler fan. Just threw out a V10 engine like your dodge has, I'd love to show you some pics, the engine leaned out on 2 cyl while driving and the ring end gap closed up, piston tried to stop in the bore at 2200rpm pistons totally shattered and the rods with cross pin still in it were flailing around in the bore for 50 miles...sorry for the tangent lol it was a RK moment
Brad At Tittle Diesel Performance Sounds bad!
David Freiburger just a heads up those V10's have ECM issues, it happens a lot where it'll lean out and typically melt a piston or 2. So keep a eye on yours, if emissions wasn't a thing for you there is a carb conversion out there for the 8.0
But seriously see if RK garage will buy you some fox shocks and some motor work, that'd be a cool show. Lots of folks are off-road-stupid so they'd learn something. Hope to see more of the jeep, TJ eras are one of my favorite modern jeeps. JK is a 4wd minivan as far as I'm concerned
How are you liking the Cooper MAXX's? I'm looking at these to replace the KO/2's on the truck I just picked up. Also pick up a set of limit straps, you never wont the shock to bottom out in its travel. It's job is to stop unwanted wheel and axle movement, not be your bump stops/travel limiter.
Keep the videos coming I love road kill but this is good too
You should definitely do more youtube vids with tech or random stuff seeing how you have my dream garage
It's rare I'm doing something that isn't being shot for my regular shows
I really hope you upload some videos of you wheeling that tj. That thing is sweet!
Thanks!
yah fresh content! i dig it
Nice! Glad you could work on some stuff for you too! Subscribed.
i have the same type of tire on a 3/4 ton truck and they are very impressive. i have been a duratrack fan for a while but these are better i think.,
Gday. Would half inch longer bump stops help stop the shock from bottoming out and also help with keeping the tyre off the flare?
Been missing your videos.
good video great learning opportunity
How are you liking the Cooper S/T Maxx tires on the Jeep? I've been considering those for my YJ for a couple years. I've always run BFG Mud-Terrains and All-Terrains on my '91 YJ and even a set of BFG Radial T/A for a few years. Would love to hear your opinion on those Coopers since I know you have run BFG before and would know how they compare. Thanks.
Great vid!
When will we see a TJvsTJ on MTOD?🙏🏼
Freiburger’s GenericJeep vs Fred’s TubeSock 🙌🏼
Tube sock wins
good video for measuring shock length, but the shocks should not be limiting the suspension compression, where you say the shock is completely bottomed out, but the bump stop is barely touching, it should be the opposite!
I almost never comment on videos but I wanted to make a point here, which Sævar Örn Eiríksson
has also made, and did a good job explaining.
There is lot of misinformation out there about suspension, and what was said about the shock and bumpstop needs to be corrected. The shock should NEVER bottom out, ever. That's how you break shocks and shock mounts (and more). Also, when setting up travel, the rubber part of the bumpstop doesn't matter, take it out of the equation (remove it). The rubber is soft and with the force that can come down on it, it can easily (EASILY!) completely compress. The only correct way to measure for shocks is to bottom out the suspension (without the rubber part) so the metal on the axle is against the metal on the bumpstop cup. At that point, your shock can be almost bottomed out but not completely.
Also, not that with Jeep suspension, and other solid axle vehicles, the shock measurement will be different if both L&R sides bottom out at the same time, VS. if only one side is bottomed out, like in the video. So it's important to cycle the suspension both ways (both sides bottomed out together & one side bottomed out and the other side drooping), and make sure your shock never bottoms out. My shocks are not in the stock location any more, but as an example, if I set up my shock mounts with both sides bottomed out (metal against metal), and then articulate the axle so one side is bottomed out and the other side drooping, the side bottomed out now has about 3/4" more shaft showing on the shock. So if I had set my shocks up to be the "correct length" as shown in this video (one side bottomed, one side drooping), then when both sides compress at the same time, my shock would bottom out about 3/4" before the bumpstops limit my travel.
One easy trick, put a small/medium zip tie (tie wrap) around the shock shaft (just snug enough so it doesn't fall down with gravity). If the zip tie gets pushed all the way down the shaft, your suspension might not be set up correctly. If the zip tie gets smashed, your suspension is definitely not set up right.
Lots of people think it's ok for shocks to limit travel (act as bumpstops), and maybe people get lucky for a while (or they never really go off road). But this is not correct and will break something eventually.
Sævar Örn Eiríksson
is correct and made a great point. I just wanted to expound a little.
Keep this up frieburger
The stt maxx are good I use them on my land rover
I noticed the rear shocks turned around, how's come? The shocks on my TJ say for the body of the shock to be down, would it make a difference if I flipped them?
nice jeep, you should upload more here
Shouldn't your bumb stop be hitting before the shock is fully bottomed out? Because fully bottoming out or fully extending the shock bad for it? Isnt that why most off road rigs have big hydraulic bump stops for full compression and then a strap bolted to the top and bottom of the shock to stop full extention? I know you said your shocks where old anyway and where going to be replaced.
How does it weigh that much?
It’s definitely not gonna be 2500 pounds but that’s crazy
Spring keeper and hydrologic stops??? They can be adjusted.
so fing glad i found your yt!
This Episode of Dirt Every Day brought to you by....... DAVID FREIBURGER??????😵🤔😋
hey dave sweet jeep. figured with all that hot rod money you'd be rollin in a range rover. i kid... glad to see you doing some down time having fun. now how about time on your ford coupe?
You should add a hockey puck inside the coil so you don't have your tire rub
Hey David, is the engine still stock? I just added a Boostedtech supercharger kit to my ‘99 and love the power. Sounds like a good episode of Engine Masters!!
Dude, you need to talk to Blaine Johnson of Black Magic brakes. He specializes in these jeeps and doesn’t do any tacky shit like you’re trying to do with it. He uses Currie enterprises and his stuff is top shelf.
Nice to see the Jeep! Subscribing!
Nice TJ!
This is a very peculiar episode of Roadkill Garage
thought it was dirt every day but i enjoyed this more.
i think this place is at gorman /hungry valley california nice plece
isnt it bad for the shock to be in full compression or fully extended?
Martijn Bruggers It’s better if they are not in full jounce or rebound, yes.
Space the rear bumps down a bit so they start taking up the load first.
It has paint on it wow .Mint
WOW, long time between videos Dave.
Great video!
I’m glad you got rid of that Dana 35.
Well done sir!
Lets see the front and the scrub radius with those 10 wheels. :)
A TJ that still has paint marks on the factory bolts. Amazing how little rust happens there - Jealous Eastern Canadian right here.
Is that gear oil on inside of the tires blown Axel seals
Where does one find the polyurethane spacers for the top of the coil? Do they have a magical name? All I could ever pull up was 'isolators'
Matt Knight Look On web sites for Daystar or Prothane
David Freiburger thanks, found em. Now if I could just get those springs to stop chirping against the bottom perches..
you got a link or something for how you mounted that high lift jack???
Thanks
Kevin Nash It’s a Hard Rock tire carrier with an integral Hi Lift mount