Thanks for this great suggestion. Based on your suggestion i also used the bic pen method. Worked great! I did have to turn the valve 180 degrees first to get the heat to work right. All in all it took me about 30 minutes partly because i dropped one of the screws and had to find it. For anyone else trying this, place a small plastic Tupperware container under the valve so if any parts accidentally drop they just fall into the Tupperware. Anyway this fix saved me the $700 quoted by Nissan dealership.
Thank you for this video - it was on point. This may sound ridiculous but I had this same problem and I used a plastic perler bead that my kids had laying around to slide over the metal rod to prevent the piece from sliding out of place. It fit well, but I did have to trim it a little to shorten it.
I need to open that cover off mine. My part is not even a year old. I had my car shipped from overseas and I think maybe that nylon screw backed out. Thanks for a great video.
You could also use a piece of plastic fuel line (the type used for chain saws etc.) and slide it over the worm gear shaft. What I did was I had a bunch of tiny eyelets(from arts and crafts store) and set one on the worm gear (white gear) with the wide end against the plastic worm gear. It has worked great! I probably have saved around $400!
Good day sir I have a quick question I unplugged that valve and manually turn it to heat so now I have heat in the front and the rear would I need to manually turn it back for AC to cool in the rear
I suggest you replace the valve. They can be purchased on Amazon. I'm not sure if you need to turn it back, but I would assume it'll be battling with the ac air come summer.
Chittychittybangbang! There are blend door actuators in the front system also, this could be your problem. Or it's an electrical issue. I've yet to have this problem, so I have no knowledge on how to fix it. I'm sure there are videos on UA-cam addressing this. Good luck!
Well, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole. I purchased a 2011 Armada with 239000 ! Miles. Short, my truck was stolen out of state mid assignment and I needed a cheap car fast. I have never owned a vehicle that has such a hot and hours residual heat engine compartment. The heater hoses are very hot touch after sitting for hours. Does that relay have something wrong ?
🙏Thank you. The coolant gauge runs SW 180/210 click shy icon ( below)Tran gauge runs just SW of center, click shy of icon. Looks good up here, but again extremely hot engine cabin.
The heater hoses are very hot, as I mentioned. Further I noticed a felt on firewall where the heater hoses are. Its factory. I just can’t understand the extreme residual heat for hours parked.
and..Previous owner had CC battery 620, I think. I have new 710 CC. If this your specialty I would be inclined to Zelle a diagnostic fee to you. The new battery is 4 mo. I have left the auxiliary switch on twice and it was completely dead. Jump works, but what is killing power overnight ?
dusty sims the whole device is a heater control valve I believe. As for the individual part I made, it's just a gear retainer. I'm not sure a pencil eraser would work, but you're more than welcome to try it. Thank you!
My worm gear is still good, but the problem is the valve itself (behind the top gear) is so sticky that the gear can't move it. I turned it with a screwdriver, but I'd love to hear suggestions on how to loosen it up so the gear can move it)
It's been so long since I messed with this that my memory is a little foggy on the internal parts. Maybe spray it down with brake cleaner and spray some silicon lubricant on it to see if it'll free up? If the gear your messing with is connected to the diverted valve, then it may have some sludge built up inside the valve restricting movement. You may need to remove a hose and spray some sort of cleaner inside the valve to try and free it up. Good luck!
My 2019 armada is having issues with temp control there’s not much difference in 64 degrees to 70 etc . It’s just hot , any suggestions or could this be the issue . Thnks
It controls the flow of engine coolant. So really it's only for heat, but I assume the climate controls make it fluctuate open and close to mix the hot and cold air in the cab for the desired temperature that's been selected.
If the coolant lines coming out of the engine and going into the firewall are warm or cool to the touch after you warm the engine up, then it's a flow problem. This valve stops the flow of coolant from going into the cab, so if it's malfunctioning or receiving inaccurate volts from the dash temp controls, then it will not let the hot coolant flow. It may not be the valve but a problem with the temp controls in the dash as well. Test the wires coming to the valve with a volt meter and see if the voltage changes when you adjust the temp in the cab.
I turned the valve to open, and now the left hose gets warm, but still no heat inside. I tried switching modes to floor, middle vents, and defrost, but I got no heat from any of those settings Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
You might have an issue with an air damper under your dash not opening or switching. I haven't messed with those before, so I can't give you much input. Sorry
Quick question, what about when the heat is on, heat blows on drivers side, but cold air blows on the passenger side? There are times when we hear a knocking sound as well. Thank you.
LaTarrah Burton I think you have a broken blend door actuator under your dash. I haven't replaced one of these yet in the dash, I have replaced the rear actuator in another video on this same vehicle. This video here only covers the coolant valve for rear heat. I'm sure there are other videos on UA-cam that cover how to rectify a broken under dash blend door actuator. Good luck!
Pencil eraser seems to have solved the problem with my 2015. Note to everyone, don’t run your car with that cover off! The gears fall off, made my fix take a bit longer finding the two missing pieces! Doh!! Learn from my mistake, that cover has to be on to run the gears.
I'm going to try that eraser too. Either thank or I'll strip some spare electrical wires in the garage and use that sleeve that covers the wire for a spacer on that gear shaft. 2015 Armada
You dropped the worm gear? If so, your kind of fubared. Nissan doesn't sell those parts independently. I would look to pull those gears out of a salvaged vehicle if at all possible. Good luck!
I've noticed here lately that the car sometimes will not change to heat from cool, and requires turning the car off, waiting 10 minutes then starting it and selecting heat. Then we get heat. So I think our valve is sticking under the pressure of the water while the car is running. I may be changing the valve out all together here soon.
@@dawveed26 yes my God, I'm a woman nowhere near a mechanic and just happened to come on UA-cam and saw this video. Grabbed a small star head screwdriver, removed the covering and lo and behold there was the little white thing it had shimmied it's way down and thats what was causing my heat not to work. Two separate mechanics quoted me $300 and $400 I fixed it for free. It has been 2 years since I had heat I just couldn't bring myself to pay that much for it to be fixed, luckily I live here in Florida where our winters fluctuate hot to cold and don't last long. But thankfully we can enjoy our heat for when it is cold ☺️ thank you
I used rubber gasket material and it is working now. Will keep u posted, thanks for the video and showing the issue.. 30 minute fix.
Great video what worked for me was about 1/4 inch of the back of an ink cartridge from a bic pen
Brilliant idea. Did exactly this. Thank you Dustin!
Genius.... I honestly can't believe it. The ink cartridge was literally meant for this job. Thank you for saving me a ton of $$$$
Thanks for this great suggestion. Based on your suggestion i also used the bic pen method. Worked great! I did have to turn the valve 180 degrees first to get the heat to work right. All in all it took me about 30 minutes partly because i dropped one of the screws and had to find it. For anyone else trying this, place a small plastic Tupperware container under the valve so if any parts accidentally drop they just fall into the Tupperware. Anyway this fix saved me the $700 quoted by Nissan dealership.
I cut off a short piece of ball point pen cartridge plastic tube, just long enough to fit over shaft. Fits very tight and works like a charm.
Guess I should have said, 'plastic tube from inside the pen', tube that holds the ink.
Thank you for this video - it was on point. This may sound ridiculous but I had this same problem and I used a plastic perler bead that my kids had laying around to slide over the metal rod to prevent the piece from sliding out of place. It fit well, but I did have to trim it a little to shorten it.
That sounds like a perfect piece to use for this fix. Nice thinking out of the box. Thanks for the comment!
I need to open that cover off mine. My part is not even a year old. I had my car shipped from overseas and I think maybe that nylon screw backed out. Thanks for a great video.
You’re a genius bro
You could also use a piece of plastic fuel line (the type used for chain saws etc.) and slide it over the worm gear shaft. What I did was I had a bunch of tiny eyelets(from arts and crafts store) and set one on the worm gear (white gear) with the wide end against the plastic worm gear. It has worked great! I probably have saved around $400!
Thanks a lot bro I was thinking I was gonna spend so much money
Thanks a lot bro, you really helped me save some bucks. I do really appreciate your time and your video. Thumbs up!
I cannot wait to try this! Thanks!
This worked on my 2014 titan. Heat Baby! I just turned that top gear to the left. Now it gets hot or cold when I want it to.
I'm going to try this. It seems like this is a common problem that Nissan should take care of. Just my 2 cents.
Philip Banks I agree. Fortunately it's a fairly easy fix and doesn't cost hardly a thing. My fix is still working, hope it works for you. Good luck!
Good day sir I have a quick question I unplugged that valve and manually turn it to heat so now I have heat in the front and the rear would I need to manually turn it back for AC to cool in the rear
I suggest you replace the valve. They can be purchased on Amazon. I'm not sure if you need to turn it back, but I would assume it'll be battling with the ac air come summer.
@dawveed26 ok because it is cold in the front thanks fie getting back to ne
I got the same issue with my nissan titan..does your way to fixed it works?
Just4Fun vid3os so far it's worked well. Haven't had any issues with it since I did this repair which was about a week before I posted this video.
nice video I have a problem with the driver side AC not adjusting to heat I mean it stays at the lowest temp on the gauge but the pass side works
Chittychittybangbang! There are blend door actuators in the front system also, this could be your problem. Or it's an electrical issue. I've yet to have this problem, so I have no knowledge on how to fix it. I'm sure there are videos on UA-cam addressing this. Good luck!
Well, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole. I purchased a 2011 Armada with 239000 ! Miles. Short, my truck was stolen out of state mid assignment and I needed a cheap car fast. I have never owned a vehicle that has such a hot and hours residual heat engine compartment. The heater hoses are very hot touch after sitting for hours. Does that relay have something wrong ?
Are you getting any warning lights or overheating issues indicated by the temp gauge in the dash?
@@dawveed26 Coolant drops, 2 hrs tranny gauge runs left a click of center.
🙏Thank you. The coolant gauge runs SW 180/210 click shy icon ( below)Tran gauge runs just SW of center, click shy of icon. Looks good up here, but again extremely hot engine cabin.
The heater hoses are very hot, as I mentioned. Further I noticed a felt on firewall where the heater hoses are. Its factory. I just can’t understand the extreme residual heat for hours parked.
and..Previous owner had CC battery 620, I think. I have new 710 CC. If this your specialty I would be inclined to Zelle a diagnostic fee to you. The new battery is 4 mo. I have left the auxiliary switch on twice and it was completely dead. Jump works, but what is killing power overnight ?
Awesome. 2 questions....what this part called? & could a pencil eraser work?
dusty sims the whole device is a heater control valve I believe. As for the individual part I made, it's just a gear retainer. I'm not sure a pencil eraser would work, but you're more than welcome to try it. Thank you!
dawveed26 ok bud. Thank ya!
Can I change the air mix door motor without removing the entire dashboard
I don't know, I haven't changed that part before. Good luck!
My worm gear is still good, but the problem is the valve itself (behind the top gear) is so sticky that the gear can't move it. I turned it with a screwdriver, but I'd love to hear suggestions on how to loosen it up so the gear can move it)
It's been so long since I messed with this that my memory is a little foggy on the internal parts. Maybe spray it down with brake cleaner and spray some silicon lubricant on it to see if it'll free up? If the gear your messing with is connected to the diverted valve, then it may have some sludge built up inside the valve restricting movement. You may need to remove a hose and spray some sort of cleaner inside the valve to try and free it up. Good luck!
My 2019 armada is having issues with temp control there’s not much difference in 64 degrees to 70 etc . It’s just hot , any suggestions or could this be the issue . Thnks
That's quite a bit newer than mine, and a different body style. Sorry, not really much of a help here. Good luck!
I replaced the rear blend door actuator and still no heat. This is the next thing to do
Anyone know the length and diameter of the exposed portion of the shaft with gear fully seated?
I keep seeing heater only in the parts description when I look it up online but this part is for both air conditioning and hear correct? HVAC?
It controls the flow of engine coolant. So really it's only for heat, but I assume the climate controls make it fluctuate open and close to mix the hot and cold air in the cab for the desired temperature that's been selected.
Just bought a 2012 on discount. Ac works heat dont work. Live in vegas so not to worry but... Im thinking thermostat? Ac works fine
If the coolant lines coming out of the engine and going into the firewall are warm or cool to the touch after you warm the engine up, then it's a flow problem. This valve stops the flow of coolant from going into the cab, so if it's malfunctioning or receiving inaccurate volts from the dash temp controls, then it will not let the hot coolant flow. It may not be the valve but a problem with the temp controls in the dash as well. Test the wires coming to the valve with a volt meter and see if the voltage changes when you adjust the temp in the cab.
@@dawveed26 thank you. It worked your 100 percent spot on. Turned 90 degrees to the left
I turned the valve to open, and now the left hose gets warm, but still no heat inside. I tried switching modes to floor, middle vents, and defrost, but I got no heat from any of those settings Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
You might have an issue with an air damper under your dash not opening or switching. I haven't messed with those before, so I can't give you much input. Sorry
@@dawveed26 Thanks for the info👍
Quick question, what about when the heat is on, heat blows on drivers side, but cold air blows on the passenger side? There are times when we hear a knocking sound as well. Thank you.
LaTarrah Burton I think you have a broken blend door actuator under your dash. I haven't replaced one of these yet in the dash, I have replaced the rear actuator in another video on this same vehicle. This video here only covers the coolant valve for rear heat. I'm sure there are other videos on UA-cam that cover how to rectify a broken under dash blend door actuator. Good luck!
Okay, thank you very much. Sounds like I have to take it to the dealership or a local mechanic. Thank you
Pencil eraser seems to have solved the problem with my 2015. Note to everyone, don’t run your car with that cover off! The gears fall off, made my fix take a bit longer finding the two missing pieces! Doh!! Learn from my mistake, that cover has to be on to run the gears.
Ima try using the eraser. How's it working for u?
I'm going to try that eraser too. Either thank or I'll strip some spare electrical wires in the garage and use that sleeve that covers the wire for a spacer on that gear shaft. 2015 Armada
Im going to try a battleship peg cut to the right lenght with a hole drilled in the center
John Mcginty go for it! Hope it's soft enough and doesn't crack. Good luck!
How about putting a small spring on it?
Like a pen spring? That may work.
Did u try the spring
Mine is some kinda cylinder pump and dosent look like that it's a 2005 dose anyone know what to do with that?
Anyone know where to get the nylon worm that goes in the gears? Ours fell into engine when fixing it.
You dropped the worm gear? If so, your kind of fubared. Nissan doesn't sell those parts independently. I would look to pull those gears out of a salvaged vehicle if at all possible. Good luck!
@@dawveed26 We found out that RC car stores/hobby stores have the exact worm gears. We went there and they had a multi pack of them for $6. Easy fix.
Dawveed26 thanks and appreaciate you..;)
Girl version.... earring backing ;-)
Melissa callaway did that work?
Did the earring backing work?
Best quick fix solution! Used a silicone earring backing and it worked
I have the same problem with my heat
I've noticed here lately that the car sometimes will not change to heat from cool, and requires turning the car off, waiting 10 minutes then starting it and selecting heat. Then we get heat. So I think our valve is sticking under the pressure of the water while the car is running. I may be changing the valve out all together here soon.
They were getting ready to charge me $400 to fix my heat.. . 🤦🏾♀️
Were you able to fix it yourself?
@@dawveed26 yes my God, I'm a woman nowhere near a mechanic and just happened to come on UA-cam and saw this video. Grabbed a small star head screwdriver, removed the covering and lo and behold there was the little white thing it had shimmied it's way down and thats what was causing my heat not to work. Two separate mechanics quoted me $300 and $400 I fixed it for free. It has been 2 years since I had heat I just couldn't bring myself to pay that much for it to be fixed, luckily I live here in Florida where our winters fluctuate hot to cold and don't last long. But thankfully we can enjoy our heat for when it is cold ☺️ thank you
Tweaker