Bill...I can't thank you enough for this video! I am a 56 year old divorced cowgirl, and when the heat went out in my 2010 Titan, and I researched it on Google, your video came up. I went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts here in Apache Junction AZ and got the part ($97...it came with the new hoses attached...no choice), and when I got home and let the truck cool down, I went to work. I took the hoses off of the new part in preparation, and then I started on the task of removing the old unit. It took me two and a half hours, but that's only because I struggled with disconnecting the power (I didn't want to break the clip), and it took me a good hour to disconnect the hoses on the original unit (I am only 5 foot tall, and I was standing on a chair, and it was almost too much for my little hands). But as soon as I had the hoses and power disconnected, I pulled the original unit, and then the installation of the new unit was a snap, and I did it just like you did, with the same type of clamps. I tested it, and it works BEAUTIFULLY! I owe you a HUGE thanks! If you are ever in Arizona, in the Phoenix area, look me up...I owe you dinner or at least a beer... THANKS!!! ~Debra Weiss www.superstitionranch.com
Did the replacement today. Worked like a champ. Especially, thank you for the reminder to check the valve position as relates to the heater control knob position. One extra step I did was to plug in the new valve after removing the hoses and watch the valve open and close through several cycles just to ensure it would work and that the valve itself actually was the problem.
For me the most valuable tip was how to remove those plastic hose clamps. I don't think I would have figured that out before I damaged the hoses. On the other hand, the other ends of the hoses are actually accessible on my 2013 Titan without tearing into the firewall, etc. It wouldn't have been easy to get them loose, but doable. Still, your video was a great help in getting this done in just a few minutes.
I live in Ohio. Had the same gear break. Removed the guts of the assembly, manually opened the valve, put it back together and left it that way. I can get very cold A/C as well as high heat -- no problem. As far as I can tell, the only downside is that I can't achieve precise temps in the middle range. But this basically just makes the heat and A/C work like older cars that didn't have climate control. If you're hot, you crank up the A/C until you feel comfortable. Then you turn it down or off. If you're cold, you crank up the heat. How often do you really need to maintain a perfect 73 degrees (or whatever temp you like). It's certainly not worth paying more than $30 or so for a Chinese knock-off part. Buying a OEM or Gates part for $250 or paying a dealer $500 to fix this is just insane. Just bypass the valve and save your money for something that matters. The main point I wanted to make is that leaving the valve open isn't just for people in the Arctic circle. It works just fine even on a hot day in Ohio. There's no need to go in there and open or close the valve each season. A/C works fine with the valve open.
I hope you are right my ac and heat work perfectly fine I have the part to replace it but should i ? What’s the point of the valve then if it can be bypassed ?
Bro, thank you so much for the video!!! We are working on my co-workers truck throughout the workday. Found that the blend door actuator was trashed after dismantling the dash. It didn’t fix the issue. I remember fixing the same thing on an 04 Expedition. While searching for it I found your video!!! Thank you!!! She’s very grateful!!!
Excellent video! Very informative! Best UA-cam video on this subject, no doubt. We had already purchased the replacement part but after seeing your quick fix, we did that for the time being and will save the part and replace when the weather gets warmer! Thanks so much for making and sharing this video.
Outstanding! Your video gave me the confidence to tackle this and it worked great! For others attempting this, just be careful I lost about a tablespoon of antifreeze. No biggie but made a little bit of a mess. Was difficult to get those hoses off but the WD40 was a game changer! Saved a ton of money, got the part on sale for 55$ and worked immediately!!! Can’t thank you enough for posting this video!
Thank you so much for the great tips! I got the part from the dealership for $125 with military discount OE parts is the best way to go. Don't try to remove the original hoses! Over time the hose becomes bonded to the metal fixers on the truck. It's ok to remove the hose were it is attached to the heat control valve because it is plastic. I used ever trick you put out and it worked like a charm. I used high compression hose clamps to attach the new heat control valve.
Great video Bill, buddy bought this amazon replacement did not work at all. So i went to Oreillys and got there version which is actually an upgrade and woks perfect. The online cheap-o's have the same design as the factory 1 and it is problematic. Cheers!
Bill this helped me tremendously, I have a 2007 Nissan titan I did exactly as you said and it was fixed but after that I went and bought the entire item from a prime vendor and it worked perfectly!! Thank thank thank you Bill!!
Bill, great stuff! Thanks a bunch. I've been doing the screwdriver on my wife's Armada for 2 seasons now and she would "prefer" that I fix it.... One question, do you remember if the new valve came from the factory open or closed? The screws on that box are really soft and I stripped the heads on the old one pretty easy so I'm disinclined to open the new one if I don't have to. Just wondering what position to have the cabin control knob in when I install so I don't get a situation like you said where the motor arbitrarily starts turning the thing and doesn't know the actual physical position of the valve... or... maybe it's smart enough it does know.... Also, thanks for showing the inside when you turned the screwdriver. Those positions correspond to what I thought, but it's a bit counter-intuitive if you're used to a ball valve with a handle being parallel to the flow in the open position, and this one the slot for the screwdriver is up/down which you might think would be the closed position. I've had the new valve for over a year but have been agonizing over how the hell to get to that 1 spring clamp in the back. Didn't occur to me to leave the hoses in place and reuse!!!
I am amazed that so many people have watched this video. You have a good question so here is my take on it. I am not sure what position the valve is originally in but I assumed it was "normally closed" and for me I just made sure my temperature setting was set at "heater off" (Blue not red) and it worked perfectly. If you are not sure you could just plug it in before mounting it on the firewall with the hoses off. Then just turn on the key (without starting the motor) and see if simply turning the temperature knob inside the cabin opens the little ball valve on the new part. If off is off, and on means you can look right through the new part (meaning hot antifreeze with flow through it), then turn it back off, turn off the key, and put it all together. I hope this helps. Good luck, Bill
Thanks for the reply, Bill. After I wrote my earlier question I had some coffee and set my super powerful brain to workin.... and blew in one end of the new hose.... no air out, valve ships closed... duh.... :)
Your recommendation seemed to be going as planned but as I started pulling the first hose off, I believe it started shooting antifreeze. Is it supposed to do that? Didn’t see that “what if” part of the fix.
Thanks for this video. Our question is the white part that the bottom part of the worm would go against and the white part is on the motor , our white part is loose, we can turn it without the motor running and we are wondering if that is our issue? Should the white plastic piece not more if the motor is not going? Otherwise the top black plastic piece for us was not broken. Thanks again! Very detailed and helpful video
Hey Christy. Getting ready to do my wife's Armada after using the screwdriver cheat for two seasons. The real problem with that is when the weather flip-flops back and forth for a month in the spring & fall!!! So her black gear at the top wasn't broken either. On hers that white plastic worm gear had loosened enough on it's metal shaft that it moved out a bit and then wouldn't engage that black plastic drive shaft. I'm no engineer, but that seems like a weak, stupid, and unnecessarily complicated way to move that valve. Like I said, I tore hers up and turned the thing with a screwdriver but after the fact I thought there might have been some way to keep the white gray forced down like maybe an o-ring or tiny crimp washer.... near as I can tell, not only does the white gear move up on the shaft, it doesn't seem to be keyed to it either and is guaranteed to slip eventually. If you can get it to stay put, great, otherwise just replace the valve but recycle the original hoses as Bill did in his video so you don't need to get to the end of the one on the back of the block. That was the game-changer for me.
You need to fiddle with it. Use a small screwdriver and try and locate a small piece of plastic that snaps the plug into place. When you find that just bend it back just enough to pull the chord connector out. Look if you break it you still might be able to still use it. Use electrical tape to help prevent the plug from coming apart. There are only two wires that need to be reconnected
To be honest, I think Nissan should have instructions in the user manual for bypassing or manually opening this valve in emergency situations. Imagine you're stuck in a snow storm, freezing to death in the truck, and you try to use the heater but can't get heat. Meanwhile, Nissan knows that if you have a phillips screwdriver or multi-tool lying around, you could save your family's life in about 2 minutes. It seems criminal to me that stuff like this is not in the user manual under "Emergency procedures."
Bill...I can't thank you enough for this video! I am a 56 year old divorced cowgirl, and when the heat went out in my 2010 Titan, and I researched it on Google, your video came up. I went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts here in Apache Junction AZ and got the part ($97...it came with the new hoses attached...no choice), and when I got home and let the truck cool down, I went to work. I took the hoses off of the new part in preparation, and then I started on the task of removing the old unit. It took me two and a half hours, but that's only because I struggled with disconnecting the power (I didn't want to break the clip), and it took me a good hour to disconnect the hoses on the original unit (I am only 5 foot tall, and I was standing on a chair, and it was almost too much for my little hands). But as soon as I had the hoses and power disconnected, I pulled the original unit, and then the installation of the new unit was a snap, and I did it just like you did, with the same type of clamps. I tested it, and it works BEAUTIFULLY! I owe you a HUGE thanks! If you are ever in Arizona, in the Phoenix area, look me up...I owe you dinner or at least a beer... THANKS!!! ~Debra Weiss www.superstitionranch.com
Thanks, Bill. I had most of this sorted out but could not figure out how to remove the existing clamps on the hoses. You showed me and it worked!
Did the replacement today. Worked like a champ. Especially, thank you for the reminder to check the valve position as relates to the heater control knob position. One extra step I did was to plug in the new valve after removing the hoses and watch the valve open and close through several cycles just to ensure it would work and that the valve itself actually was the problem.
How cool that you show us how it works and how it is broken. Awesome!
Thanks for explaining how to change this valve, it helped me a lot.
I ended up just cutting the hoses off as close as possible. 40 bucks later my wife's heat works. Thanks.
For me the most valuable tip was how to remove those plastic hose clamps. I don't think I would have figured that out before I damaged the hoses. On the other hand, the other ends of the hoses are actually accessible on my 2013 Titan without tearing into the firewall, etc. It wouldn't have been easy to get them loose, but doable. Still, your video was a great help in getting this done in just a few minutes.
I live in Ohio. Had the same gear break. Removed the guts of the assembly, manually opened the valve, put it back together and left it that way. I can get very cold A/C as well as high heat -- no problem. As far as I can tell, the only downside is that I can't achieve precise temps in the middle range. But this basically just makes the heat and A/C work like older cars that didn't have climate control. If you're hot, you crank up the A/C until you feel comfortable. Then you turn it down or off. If you're cold, you crank up the heat. How often do you really need to maintain a perfect 73 degrees (or whatever temp you like). It's certainly not worth paying more than $30 or so for a Chinese knock-off part. Buying a OEM or Gates part for $250 or paying a dealer $500 to fix this is just insane. Just bypass the valve and save your money for something that matters. The main point I wanted to make is that leaving the valve open isn't just for people in the Arctic circle. It works just fine even on a hot day in Ohio. There's no need to go in there and open or close the valve each season. A/C works fine with the valve open.
I hope you are right my ac and heat work perfectly fine I have the part to replace it but should i ? What’s the point of the valve then if it can be bypassed ?
Very very helpful! Love the details on the up close of the items. Very informational.👍
Bro, thank you so much for the video!!! We are working on my co-workers truck throughout the workday. Found that the blend door actuator was trashed after dismantling the dash. It didn’t fix the issue. I remember fixing the same thing on an 04 Expedition. While searching for it I found your video!!! Thank you!!! She’s very grateful!!!
That is awesome!
Excellent video! Very informative! Best UA-cam video on this subject, no doubt. We had already purchased the replacement part but after seeing your quick fix, we did that for the time being and will save the part and replace when the weather gets warmer! Thanks so much for making and sharing this video.
Great to hear!
Outstanding! Your video gave me the confidence to tackle this and it worked great! For others attempting this, just be careful I lost about a tablespoon of antifreeze. No biggie but made a little bit of a mess. Was difficult to get those hoses off but the WD40 was a game changer! Saved a ton of money, got the part on sale for 55$ and worked immediately!!! Can’t thank you enough for posting this video!
Excellent!
Thank you so much for the great tips! I got the part from the dealership for $125 with military discount OE parts is the best way to go. Don't try to remove the original hoses! Over time the hose becomes bonded to the metal fixers on the truck. It's ok to remove the hose were it is attached to the heat control valve because it is plastic. I used ever trick you put out and it worked like a charm. I used high compression hose clamps to attach the new heat control valve.
nice
Thank YOU !!!! Have 2010 Armada used your advice on heater valve replacement worked. Worked and saved me about $600.00 thanks again !!
Great job!
Same way
Awesome video bud, fixed my problem using your directions 🤙
Great video Bill, buddy bought this amazon replacement did not work at all. So i went to Oreillys and got there version which is actually an upgrade and woks perfect. The online cheap-o's have the same design as the factory 1 and it is problematic. Cheers!
Bill this helped me tremendously, I have a 2007 Nissan titan I did exactly as you said and it was fixed but after that I went and bought the entire item from a prime vendor and it worked perfectly!! Thank thank thank you Bill!!
Great to hear!
@@ItsnevertoolateBill it’s still helping 6 months later to!
Hello Bill. Thanks for the video. One question I have is should I expect coolant to spill out and if so, how much?
thanks for this in-depth informative video. Im going to order the part for my 2017 Titan and give it a go..!
Glad it helped
Thank you! Worked like a charm!
Thanks for the help. Great Video.
If you couldn't take the clamps off, you could cut the hoses further down and reconnect them with heater hose connectors
Bill, great stuff! Thanks a bunch. I've been doing the screwdriver on my wife's Armada for 2 seasons now and she would "prefer" that I fix it.... One question, do you remember if the new valve came from the factory open or closed? The screws on that box are really soft and I stripped the heads on the old one pretty easy so I'm disinclined to open the new one if I don't have to. Just wondering what position to have the cabin control knob in when I install so I don't get a situation like you said where the motor arbitrarily starts turning the thing and doesn't know the actual physical position of the valve... or... maybe it's smart enough it does know.... Also, thanks for showing the inside when you turned the screwdriver. Those positions correspond to what I thought, but it's a bit counter-intuitive if you're used to a ball valve with a handle being parallel to the flow in the open position, and this one the slot for the screwdriver is up/down which you might think would be the closed position. I've had the new valve for over a year but have been agonizing over how the hell to get to that 1 spring clamp in the back. Didn't occur to me to leave the hoses in place and reuse!!!
I am amazed that so many people have watched this video. You have a good question so here is my take on it. I am not sure what position the valve is originally in but I assumed it was "normally closed" and for me I just made sure my temperature setting was set at "heater off" (Blue not red) and it worked perfectly. If you are not sure you could just plug it in before mounting it on the firewall with the hoses off. Then just turn on the key (without starting the motor) and see if simply turning the temperature knob inside the cabin opens the little ball valve on the new part. If off is off, and on means you can look right through the new part (meaning hot antifreeze with flow through it), then turn it back off, turn off the key, and put it all together. I hope this helps. Good luck, Bill
Thanks for the reply, Bill.
After I wrote my earlier question I had some coffee and set my super powerful brain to workin.... and blew in one end of the new hose.... no air out, valve ships closed... duh.... :)
Your recommendation seemed to be going as planned but as I started pulling the first hose off, I believe it started shooting antifreeze. Is it supposed to do that? Didn’t see that “what if” part of the fix.
Thanks for this video. Our question is the white part that the bottom part of the worm would go against and the white part is on the motor , our white part is loose, we can turn it without the motor running and we are wondering if that is our issue? Should the white plastic piece not more if the motor is not going? Otherwise the top black plastic piece for us was not broken. Thanks again! Very detailed and helpful video
Hey Christy.
Getting ready to do my wife's Armada after using the screwdriver cheat for two seasons. The real problem with that is when the weather flip-flops back and forth for a month in the spring & fall!!!
So her black gear at the top wasn't broken either. On hers that white plastic worm gear had loosened enough on it's metal shaft that it moved out a bit and then wouldn't engage that black plastic drive shaft. I'm no engineer, but that seems like a weak, stupid, and unnecessarily complicated way to move that valve. Like I said, I tore hers up and turned the thing with a screwdriver but after the fact I thought there might have been some way to keep the white gray forced down like maybe an o-ring or tiny crimp washer.... near as I can tell, not only does the white gear move up on the shaft, it doesn't seem to be keyed to it either and is guaranteed to slip eventually. If you can get it to stay put, great, otherwise just replace the valve but recycle the original hoses as Bill did in his video so you don't need to get to the end of the one on the back of the block. That was the game-changer for me.
Thank you for your help
Thanks bud 👍🏾
Is that an engine coolant bypass valve A? Error code 26AB
How did you remove that chord on the side. The one with the two pins
You need to fiddle with it. Use a small screwdriver and try and locate a small piece of plastic that snaps the plug into place. When you find that just bend it back just enough to pull the chord connector out. Look if you break it you still might be able to still use it. Use electrical tape to help prevent the plug from coming apart. There are only two wires that need to be reconnected
To be honest, I think Nissan should have instructions in the user manual for bypassing or manually opening this valve in emergency situations. Imagine you're stuck in a snow storm, freezing to death in the truck, and you try to use the heater but can't get heat. Meanwhile, Nissan knows that if you have a phillips screwdriver or multi-tool lying around, you could save your family's life in about 2 minutes. It seems criminal to me that stuff like this is not in the user manual under "Emergency procedures."
Amazed there has not bee a recall on this part. such a bad design...
Never buy parts if you cant return them!
i spend half day trying to fix that problem and it didnt work =... just take it to a pro and dont waste time and money :(