I go with what Feuling recommends 55psi Blow off hot running with 30 psi reseat pressure. this is accomplished with Feulings pressure relief spring setup. Its been said that Harleys don't run on oil pressure ( 5 psi or less at hot idle) but that's counter intuitive. Bearings need pressure to maintain a film barrier so I blueprint all my bikes at the higher settings and have had zero issues thus far.
the tension plate attached to the oil pump has a relief, the faster the motor revs the more oil pressure you should get..up to the point the relief valve opens and dumps the excess oil into the oil pump/cam valley. so the oil pressure may go up to say 50 lbs give or take when giving good throttle and then may suddenly drop down when it hits the relief point, and creep back up. when you back off the throttle"slowing the oil pump"
You’re Welcome. Yes this kit is very easy to install. Unfortunately I had two of these gauges fail because the rubber plug falls out, all the dampening glycol drains out and the needle shakes so bad you can’t tell what’s going on. I ended up buying a gauge from Grainger about a year and it’s a much better built unit that directly replaced the original gauge and works fine with the original bracket and fittings. I have easily 10k miles on the bike since this replacement and so far is working g just fine. Drop down my comment thread to about ten months ago and see the discussion I had with a guy named Keith who had the same issue. If you’re ends up failing I have the part number if you’re interested.
I was just watching your live stream in the office, cool man! It wouldn’t let me comment on mobile, because I use the browser instead of the UA-cam app. Just wanted to say have a good day!
Thanks Jeff... I have been on two wheels since I was about 7 and the other day, I was doing the math...I sold my last solid running streetable bike in 2006... I thought I was out of the game for good and here this comes along. I like it because it's relatively light compared to the baggers and cruisers I have had in the past. It's a LOT more fun to ride than those heavy bikes. I have no intention of putting any bags on this...sooooo, if I ain't wearing it, It aint' coming along for the ride.
I'm getting my second Dyna Wide Glide on Feb 25th, it's an '05 pearl white EFI model with 23,000 miles on her. The first big twin was an '06 EFI model I got in '08 and sold in '10 when I moved. This will be a nice upgrade to have as I have never had an oil pressure gauge on a bike before....
Didn't find any information on model years this kit fits (other than those listed on the package), so thought i have to share, to help everyone out. Fitted perfectly to my 2014 wide glide. So it seems the kit fits basically any Twin Cam. Here in Europe we have metric system, so i used a 3mm copper tube (cut from some old condenser lol :D) ISOF the provided tube and it worked perfect. Hope it helps.
A friend of mine has one of those bikes and I had him take a picture of me on it to see if I liked it. It looked like a battery powered Razor scooter under me. No sale! lol
Good looking bike!! The Tank Decal is the FXDX style. I'm curious what you paid at auction. You could easily take a look at the oil pump cam plate by pulling the side cover. Unfortunately you have one of the best 2 into 1's made and you'll need to remove it to look at the pump. My 2008 Dyna Service Manual states 30-35psi at 2000RPM @ 230 deg operating temp. I'm no master tech but your numbers looked good. HD Stock Cam Plate has known flaws one being porosity in the cast the other a weak bypass spring both resulting in oil pressure loss. If you were to read 0 psi at a red light or at idle I would look into replacement if you have the $$$. If not Axtell makes a fix for the stock plate for a lot less.
i HIGHLY reccomend replacing the vinyl tubing with copper,you havent lived until the line bursts and squirts hot oil all over you or worse yet you dont see it and blow the engine...... i throw that crap out when i have to used mechanical gauges except on vacuum lines
Hey Roger, I actually have some stainless line I had intended to upgrade... but I really like your idea of copper line.hmmmmmmm...thanks for that idea. I'm really trying to keep the chrome to an absolute minimum. Stay tuned.
I don't have your kind of luck. If I didn't use teflon tape or some sort of thread paste I would DEFINITELY have leaks. If it were me and I was inside the cam chest I would definitely upgrade the oil pump. Whether whoever had the bike before you did so is anyone's guess. There's no relationship between oil volume and oil pressure. The pressure will only go so high and then the pump's relief valve will open. The max pressure before the relief valve opens may give a clue what sort of pump is in there.
LOL, I know these are not the Harleys of yesterday, and don't understand why...but I have zero leaks of anything from anywhere of any kind on this bike to this day. I still haven't dug into this engine to see what it's made of, I am taking the "if it aint broke don't fix it" approach. Hope you have a great week.
It doesn't interfere with my leg in the riding position, but I do need to swing my leg out to see the gauge. I'm honestly not sure where else to put a mechanical gauge where it's easy to see. If it were a electronic gauge, you could mount it anywhere ahead of the neck and there would be no issues.
Yeah, It's not a bad thought... but 50psi at 5k rpm or even 60psi at 6k rpm is not happening. This engine maxes out at about 43~45psi at freeway speed.
I have replaced this same gauge twice. The mineral oil leaks out and the gauge seizes up. I'm wondering if you have had any problem with yours? My Harley is an 03 Heritage Softail.
Hey Keith. Sounds familiar. Actually I have replaced two gauges as well. The plug vibrates loose and the glycol leaks all over the engine and exhaust. I refilled one with mineral oil and the second with clear glycol …I turned a rubber plug on my lathe that fit well and put Clear epoxy over the plug. Both plugs eventually fell out and the gauges seized. In January of this year I bought a gauge from Grainger for about $18 and it’s been working well so far. It’s a direct swap For the old gauge and used all the existing bracket pieces and oil line connection. I ride this bike almost every day to work. I can look through my paperwork and get you the grainger part number if you’re interested. I like it because it has a White back with black numbers/needle. The only thing I don’t like about the new gauge is the air bubble is bigger than the other gauges … But it works and hasn’t failed … yet. Lol.
@@keithschwartz7318 HI Keith, Yep, It's a '66 GTO and a LOT of fun. The Grainger Part number is 19RZ20 Initially I had concern that it's max temp range is rated at 160f, but the engine oil that actually gets up to the gauge is well under that temperature and I have had no issues with operation of the gauge or loss of the dampening liquid. This gauge is intended to be panel mounted and in this application, it's laying horizontal, so Like I mentioned the air bubble that's visible is a bit bigger that the other two failed gauges...but that doesn't really bother me as much as replacing failed gauges. Thanks for watching. Ride safe. Steve
Not a huge fan of those plastic nylon lines. Seen more than a few trashed motors after they get out going down the road. Get you a flare tool and some good line.
I agree... after this install I realized how cheap that hose was and how exposed it was to the engine and the elements. I did a follow-up video where I replaced it with copper line and have had zero issues. thanks for watching
My experiences with high volume oil pumps in automobiles would have to agree with you that doesn't have one but I have zero experience with bikes though. LOL
I'm running in new territory with these modern Harleys...all the fancy features,computers, fuel injection, o2 sensors... At least I can watch the pressure.
Squirt a bit of your fav decarbonizer down each plug hole and the next day look and see if ANYTHING dissolved..If not..Start it up and run the piss out of it for 30 minutes abd u should read the part # on the piaton.If you have MORE carbon then that...You got other issues..GOOD LUCK MAN!!
Hey, I was looking to do the same thing. I have an 08 lowrider. When I look at filament, that kit says It only works on 99-05 dyna. Obviously yours worked on your 07, can’t figure out why It says It wont fit 06 and up. Even the drag specialties catalog for the same part says 99-05 only. Since you did this mod, have you had any issues?
Hey Bryce, It still works perfectly without any issues...Actually, I take that back.. shortly after I did this installation, I replaced the thin vinyl oil line with a copper line, because I liked the look and thought it would be an upgrade. I have a very short video uploaded that shows it with copper ua-cam.com/video/rsTtXhX7fdA/v-deo.html ...about six months ago I developed a crack in the copper (oil leak) because of engine vibration and likely wind pushing on it. It was completely my fault as I chose not to support the line anywhere along the way. I re-ran new copper and anchored it to the intake and that should resolve any further issues. Thanks for watching.
I have not looked into it. I am not a mechanic or experienced with the modern Harley Twin Cam engines, I'm not the best resource for technical information.
EVO engines should have little oil pressure. If your stock TC is at zero there's a good chance the relief/bypass in the cam plate is leaking by due to weak relief/bypass spring and porosity in the metal. You should have 30-35psi at 2000RPM @ 230deg. Those numbers come straight out of the 2008 Dyna Service Manual. Even Idle being at 1000RPM you should see 15psi. If you see 0 PSI its time to pull the cam plate and either upgrade or look into the Axtell Twin Cam Bypass Valve. It installs into your stock plate. Check Zippers Performance. You'll save the life of your motor
Crack the line at the gauge and let it leak to bleed the air. Make sure to wrap the fitting with a rag to contain the mess.
I like the new gauge Steve. Simple, no-nonsense and functional. Looks good too.
It's nice and tucked in... a quick glance is all I need.
I go with what Feuling recommends 55psi Blow off hot running with 30 psi reseat pressure. this is accomplished with Feulings pressure relief spring setup. Its been said that Harleys don't run on oil pressure ( 5 psi or less at hot idle) but that's counter intuitive. Bearings need pressure to maintain a film barrier so I blueprint all my bikes at the higher settings and have had zero issues thus far.
Nice! Gauges are ever so important. I love the confidence of mechanical gauges
You know that's right... Thanks Brayden, hope your Spring is treating you well.
the tension plate attached to the oil pump has a relief, the faster the motor revs the more oil pressure you should get..up to the point the relief valve opens and dumps the excess oil into the oil pump/cam valley. so the oil pressure may go up to say 50 lbs give or take when giving good throttle and then may suddenly drop down when it hits the relief point, and creep back up. when you back off the throttle"slowing the oil pump"
Thank you for the information. is great
Thanks bro. I was about to buy a similar one on eBay but wanted to have an idea of what I was getting into. Looks like an easy job I can handle
You’re Welcome. Yes this kit is very easy to install. Unfortunately I had two of these gauges fail because the rubber plug falls out, all the dampening glycol drains out and the needle shakes so bad you can’t tell what’s going on. I ended up buying a gauge from Grainger about a year and it’s a much better built unit that directly replaced the original gauge and works fine with the original bracket and fittings. I have easily 10k miles on the bike since this replacement and so far is working g just fine. Drop down my comment thread to about ten months ago and see the discussion I had with a guy named Keith who had the same issue. If you’re ends up failing I have the part number if you’re interested.
Looks like a real clean install, nice work!
Thanks!!!!
Love the Harley content!
Its been a daily driver and I am really enjoying having a running bike again. Thanks for watching.
I was just watching your live stream in the office, cool man! It wouldn’t let me comment on mobile, because I use the browser instead of the UA-cam app.
Just wanted to say have a good day!
Thanks Brayden!!!! Enjoy your weekend
Nice video and it helped to see it in place on the bike. I have to suggest that you torque the rocker box bolt to spec when you install this.
Good tip.Thanks.
Absolutely love this bike. I hope one day to get back on 2 wheels. Just afraid my knees have gotten too bad. Might have to go 3 wheels.
Thanks Jeff... I have been on two wheels since I was about 7 and the other day, I was doing the math...I sold my last solid running streetable bike in 2006... I thought I was out of the game for good and here this comes along. I like it because it's relatively light compared to the baggers and cruisers I have had in the past. It's a LOT more fun to ride than those heavy bikes. I have no intention of putting any bags on this...sooooo, if I ain't wearing it, It aint' coming along for the ride.
very nice and clean install very nice upgrade. I hate idiot lights give me a gauge!!!! Nice job
Thank you Sir.
I'm getting my second Dyna Wide Glide on Feb 25th, it's an '05 pearl white EFI model with 23,000 miles on her. The first big twin was an '06 EFI model I got in '08 and sold in '10 when I moved. This will be a nice upgrade to have as I have never had an oil pressure gauge on a bike before....
I really like to have a gauge to look at... Takes the guess work out of a warning light.
Thank you for your excellent expertise....👍⚡🏁🇺🇲
My pleasure!
Didn't find any information on model years this kit fits (other than those listed on the package), so thought i have to share, to help everyone out. Fitted perfectly to my 2014 wide glide. So it seems the kit fits basically any Twin Cam. Here in Europe we have metric system, so i used a 3mm copper tube (cut from some old condenser lol :D) ISOF the provided tube and it worked perfect. Hope it helps.
Great information, Thanks for sharing.
A friend of mine has one of those bikes and I had him take a picture of me on it to see if I liked it. It looked like a battery powered Razor scooter under me. No sale! lol
hahaha... now that would be a good video.
LOL!!😆
Good looking bike!! The Tank Decal is the FXDX style. I'm curious what you paid at auction. You could easily take a look at the oil pump cam plate by pulling the side cover. Unfortunately you have one of the best 2 into 1's made and you'll need to remove it to look at the pump. My 2008 Dyna Service Manual states 30-35psi at 2000RPM @ 230 deg operating temp. I'm no master tech but your numbers looked good. HD Stock Cam Plate has known flaws one being porosity in the cast the other a weak bypass spring both resulting in oil pressure loss. If you were to read 0 psi at a red light or at idle I would look into replacement if you have the $$$. If not Axtell makes a fix for the stock plate for a lot less.
Nice job.
Thank you.
had a cheap gage on my 2000 f x d and it vibrated to pieces bought an Arlene ness one and have had it for 15 years and its alot nice looking too
So far this one is holding up nicely.
It wouldn't hurt to rubber mount it!
Yesterday I ordered an Arlen Ness Oil Pressure Kit for my 2007 Fatboy, I like the quality of that kit.
30 psi on a hot engine Harley is great usually about 12 to 20 hot
Yep, 30psi is great...but this is not a stock engine.. including the upgraded oil pump.
beautiful Harley. Do you know what thread is in the crankcase?
Never have enough information when you're out on a long ride. .
You know that's right. Thanks for wathcing.
i HIGHLY reccomend replacing the vinyl tubing with copper,you havent lived until the line bursts and squirts hot oil all over you or worse yet you dont see it and blow the engine...... i throw that crap out when i have to used mechanical gauges except on vacuum lines
Hey Roger, I actually have some stainless line I had intended to upgrade... but I really like your idea of copper line.hmmmmmmm...thanks for that idea. I'm really trying to keep the chrome to an absolute minimum. Stay tuned.
autometer sells the kit,your friendly ebay should have it
The Arlen Ness kit comes with a braided line
I don't have your kind of luck. If I didn't use teflon tape or some sort of thread paste I would DEFINITELY have leaks. If it were me and I was inside the cam chest I would definitely upgrade the oil pump. Whether whoever had the bike before you did so is anyone's guess. There's no relationship between oil volume and oil pressure. The pressure will only go so high and then the pump's relief valve will open. The max pressure before the relief valve opens may give a clue what sort of pump is in there.
LOL, I know these are not the Harleys of yesterday, and don't understand why...but I have zero leaks of anything from anywhere of any kind on this bike to this day. I still haven't dug into this engine to see what it's made of, I am taking the "if it aint broke don't fix it" approach. Hope you have a great week.
Lost track of your channel a couple yrs ago.hows the goat doing .
Hi Susan, The old girl is still around and under a cover in the garage. Thanks for checking in.
Doesn't air appear in your pipe when you turn off the engine?
I couldn’t deal with that gauge right where my legs are I may look for one that fits elsewhere
It doesn't interfere with my leg in the riding position, but I do need to swing my leg out to see the gauge. I'm honestly not sure where else to put a mechanical gauge where it's easy to see. If it were a electronic gauge, you could mount it anywhere ahead of the neck and there would be no issues.
is that EFI?
Yes Sir.... my first EFI bike... I could get spoiled with this one.
On avg 10 psi per 1000 rpms is fine!! ..You're good unless you are feeling somethingvwwird andcwe all know ifcsomthung doesnt feel right..
Yeah, It's not a bad thought... but 50psi at 5k rpm or even 60psi at 6k rpm is not happening. This engine maxes out at about 43~45psi at freeway speed.
should you remove all head bolts and retorque them evenly?
This gauge bolts to the rocker-box covers not the head bolts.
Would definitely still torque them to spec with a dab of blue loctite.. that goes for nearly everything on an HD..
I have replaced this same gauge twice. The mineral oil leaks out and the gauge seizes up. I'm wondering if you have had any problem with yours? My Harley is an 03 Heritage Softail.
Hey Keith. Sounds familiar. Actually I have replaced two gauges as well. The plug vibrates loose and the glycol leaks all over the engine and exhaust. I refilled one with mineral oil and the second with clear glycol …I turned a rubber plug on my lathe that fit well and put Clear epoxy over the plug. Both plugs eventually fell out and the gauges seized. In January of this year I bought a gauge from Grainger for about $18 and it’s been working well so far. It’s a direct swap For the old gauge and used all the existing bracket pieces and oil line connection. I ride this bike almost every day to work. I can look through my paperwork and get you the grainger part number if you’re interested. I like it because it has a White back with black numbers/needle. The only thing I don’t like about the new gauge is the air bubble is bigger than the other gauges …
But it works and hasn’t failed … yet. Lol.
If you can find that number, I would appreciate your effort. Your photo looks like a 67 GTO. I have a 68 GTO convertible.
@@keithschwartz7318 HI Keith, Yep, It's a '66 GTO and a LOT of fun. The Grainger Part number is 19RZ20 Initially I had concern that it's max temp range is rated at 160f, but the engine oil that actually gets up to the gauge is well under that temperature and I have had no issues with operation of the gauge or loss of the dampening liquid. This gauge is intended to be panel mounted and in this application, it's laying horizontal, so Like I mentioned the air bubble that's visible is a bit bigger that the other two failed gauges...but that doesn't really bother me as much as replacing failed gauges. Thanks for watching. Ride safe. Steve
Thanks for the information. I appreciate your effort.
One will be available in the Pittsburgh store tomorrow!
Not a huge fan of those plastic nylon lines. Seen more than a few trashed motors after they get out going down the road. Get you a flare tool and some good line.
I agree... after this install I realized how cheap that hose was and how exposed it was to the engine and the elements. I did a follow-up video where I replaced it with copper line and have had zero issues. thanks for watching
@yourbeekeeper the natural progression! Sorry I didn't catch the video. I'll watch it. Thanks for Putting the time in and video out.
My experiences with high volume oil pumps in automobiles would have to agree with you that doesn't have one but I have zero experience with bikes though. LOL
I'm running in new territory with these modern Harleys...all the fancy features,computers, fuel injection, o2 sensors... At least I can watch the pressure.
Squirt a bit of your fav decarbonizer down each plug hole and the next day look and see if ANYTHING dissolved..If not..Start it up and run the piss out of it for 30 minutes abd u should read the part # on the piaton.If you have MORE carbon then that...You got other issues..GOOD LUCK MAN!!
I will do the squirt of cleaner... There is not much carbon at all, just enough to make the etched numbers hard to read.
Does the Gauge interfere with your Leg ?
Nope. It's not in the way at all.
Hey, I was looking to do the same thing. I have an 08 lowrider. When I look at filament, that kit says It only works on 99-05 dyna. Obviously yours worked on your 07, can’t figure out why It says It wont fit 06 and up. Even the drag specialties catalog for the same part says 99-05 only. Since you did this mod, have you had any issues?
Hey Bryce, It still works perfectly without any issues...Actually, I take that back.. shortly after I did this installation, I replaced the thin vinyl oil line with a copper line, because I liked the look and thought it would be an upgrade. I have a very short video uploaded that shows it with copper ua-cam.com/video/rsTtXhX7fdA/v-deo.html ...about six months ago I developed a crack in the copper (oil leak) because of engine vibration and likely wind pushing on it. It was completely my fault as I chose not to support the line anywhere along the way. I re-ran new copper and anchored it to the intake and that should resolve any further issues. Thanks for watching.
Fitted same kit to 2014 wide glide. Seems it works on most Twin cams no worries.
If I remember correctly the rough rule of thumb is that an engine needs 10psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm to not cause damage. Do you agree?
That's not a bad rule... it makes sense to me.
yourbeekeeper What did you end up finding out that these engines need for safe oil pressure?
I have not looked into it. I am not a mechanic or experienced with the modern Harley Twin Cam engines, I'm not the best resource for technical information.
yourbeekeeper Balogna. You're a damn fine mechanic! That's one of the reasons I love this channel. You're great with your hands.
Stock is barley above 0 at idle
EVO engines should have little oil pressure. If your stock TC is at zero there's a good chance the relief/bypass in the cam plate is leaking by due to weak relief/bypass spring and porosity in the metal. You should have 30-35psi at 2000RPM @ 230deg. Those numbers come straight out of the 2008 Dyna Service Manual. Even Idle being at 1000RPM you should see 15psi. If you see 0 PSI its time to pull the cam plate and either upgrade or look into the Axtell Twin Cam Bypass Valve. It installs into your stock plate. Check Zippers Performance. You'll save the life of your motor
Did not need threadsealer
It sealed up just fine without any sealer...I am still surprised.