@@fredrickhaemker8434 Either manual or hydraulic. Harley moved away from the automatic spring tensioners. They always tighten and can't loosen up so you end up with a chain way two tight and most people believe this is directly related to all their crank problems as well as problems with that chain and the tranny.
Any thoughts on the 124 S&S kit for the 06 night train fxstbi with the 88c.i. motor. Found your channel pretty recently and enjoy your thoughts and commentary.
I have a 2000 xlh1200. when I got the bike I replaced voes , fluids, clutch, filters, Carb Gaskets and Orings, fuel line, oil Drain line, voes hose, petcock and filter. I got really good deals on most of that so it didn't cost arm and leg. once that was done if bike was acting funny it would be easier to narrow down since so much was new. if I didn't get great deals on new parts then I wouldn't have done it. but I'm so glad I did.
On Shovels as well as Evos, they had a little screen strainer called the Witche's Hat. It was the big flat slotted screw on the engine block above the nose cone (cam cover) and to the rear or left side. That large slotted screw would hold the Witch's Hat, that had a spring looking thing that fit over it. It also required periodic inspection. If they get clogged up with debris, (the old shovelheads used horse hair filters). Oil passes through this "strainer" first, before it feeds the lifters n top end via the push rods on Evos. If this strainer gets clogged up, you are starving your lifters, pushrods n topend rocker boxes. This was the main cause of failure in valve trains. The Witche's Hat was always a neglected item. You can change the oil a hundred times, if the strainer was clogged or partially clogged the valve train will eventually fail. Also cams with aggressive cam lobes can also wreak havoc with your lifters... Ride Hard Live Free
Yea they r better especially if u have done the crank but car manufacturers has been using the tensioners for years I believe the crank is probably more with the tensioners going bad especially if it is pretty bad all the wobbling the crank is doing can’t be good for anything especially tensioners
Hey, Another great video. Thanks for the great content. One thing that is always on my mind are the automatic primary chain tensioners like the one on my 2010 twin cam. Especially with my gear drive cams. I have tossed around the idea of going to a manual tensioner or something like the Baker or the Hayden (automatic). I would also consider the SE unit but have heard many stories about the noise they produce. What are your thoughts on this and do you have any experience or preferences on a tensioner for the twin cam?
Your right, my 95 Softail Custom at 38,000 experienced a lifter failure. I was lucky I caught it before it caused more damage. The bike for the last 5 years was only driven by my friends, it was a spare bike after getting a new 2013 CVO Road King and a 2015 St Glide. I'm the original owner and I have to admit I did install at 13,000 miles an EV 27 cam and Edelbrock street heads. One lifter roller bearing failed and wiped out the cam. I replaced the cam with another EV 27 cam and Fueling lifters. Again, I replaced the inner roller bearing with a Timken and the outer bushing, I also install Ultima's roller rockers and Rocker Lockers. Keep up the good work we appreciate it.
The new spring tensioners aren't as bad as the original ones now, they have a better pad material on there too. Still a lot of debate on if it was spring tension or a bad run of timing chains though.
The external breather is the first thing I did to my new ‘21 FXLRS. I did it myself with 1/4” fuel line and a brass tee courtesy of Lowe’s and Ace hardware. You do have to drill holes in the backside of the stock Harley ventilator but it’s super easy, you can barely notice it and it does the engine a world of good. If you don’t have a true stage 1 ventilator like the low rider S, or you don’t feel comfortable drilling holes in it, you can order a top notch high flow breather with an EBS from DK customs. All their breathers come with an EBS of your choice and they are some of the absolute best for performance. IMO. Non paid endorsement, I just really appreciate their products and the support they give. DK, all the way!
A video on how to check the rubber swing arm bushings on touring bikes. I had a late 90s roadking and the miles were low but it was wagging the tail at highway speeds. It didn’t go away until the swingarm bushings were changed but there was no good way to check them. They looked ok but I had no way to check for flex. Like a ball joint on a car we just stick a crowbar up in there and see what moves
Thanks my man! I'm a new Harley owner. I learned about the cam tensioners from guys like you putting this info out. I have an 05 Electra Glide, so I pulled my cam cover and found my tensioners on the verge of disintegrating! The bike only had 30K on it. I upgraded the cam plate to the screaming eagle with a new oil pump and hyd tensioners. Had I gone another 5K miles on it, it would have been disastrous! Appreciate the content, keep it coming!
Right on ; big bore kit done ; tear down and bring up was 8 days . Fire up today .Yes carbon on head and piston . I’ll consider external breather . ✊🏻👍👌🙏 Good tips again
@@GixxerFoo did 50 mi ride to break in rings below 3000 rpm . All good ; she bangs harder on grades . Less throttle twisting . Anxious to take back out for over 3000 rpm’s . Then oil change - Mild build but only imagine what heads and more $$$ would do !!!- Grateful for what I got - I’ll track mpg later and disclose . ✊🏻👍👌👋
I was Facebookless for a long time and when I finally got it I didn’t know about groups. I had a ticking noise in my 88 Twin. I took it to one dealer and they said they couldn’t hear anything. I rode it home and the next day riding into work it jerked twice really hard. I called another dealer and took it to them. Cam bearing completely failed destroying one of the cams, shattered the oil pump and tore up the crank and case. If the dealer had said a long time ago “Hey this is a known issue with these” it could’ve been prevented. I still have that bike and I also bought a 19 RG. Now back to my comment about Facebook. I joined several Facebook groups and discovered transmission fluid transfer was a huge issue with the early M8 touring bikes. Never heard a word about it from the dealer. Facebook groups are your friend...the dealer not so much
Purchased a 7,300 mile 1999 heritage last April ,replaced inner cam bearing ,with S and S quickie pushrods .which sets me up for a easy lifter change . and yes panheads forever ,excellent post thank you
Very informative material. A kind of recap of what you've discussed so far, after 125 videos. Yes, I took the trouble of counting all of them on because I'm a massive fan of your content! So, nice one and keep it going!
Thanks for sharing! I appreciate the support! I like to recap sometimes when I get a lot of questions in the comments, a lot of those videos get lost and buried over time.
@@GixxerFoo, many thanks for your kind reply. Would you please consider making a couple of videos about upgrading Shovel engines? Something like you did with EVO and TCs. Big bore or stroker kits, cams swaps, dyno charts and stuff like that. Cheers!
Good points. Checked my 2005 super glide cam chain tensioners recently and both look in good condition at 47000 miles. Mechanic thinks they are the original ones. Bit surprised they are in such good condition , but pleasant surprise.
@@GixxerFoo looks like it's hit and miss. Some go as little as 20,000 miles and others 80, 000 miles. Maybe due to chain condition , type of riding , maintenance etc.
As a Extreme Detailer & a Wrench I see stuff the Grease Monkey's never I typically spend 30 or more hours with a bike .I see Nails in Tires, loose sprockets & misc. nuts & bolts. leaking forks, wrong axels , Bad brakes, Leaks (A Never ending list....) Even had one come in that all 3 holes where the Drain plugs were So loose I could See the O rings.(Finger licking loose) Probably the one thing NO ONE ever checks is the Jiffy Stand!! Make sure that thing is TIGHT!! Harley has the Best design with the locking tab (minus FXR , DYNA & Sportster) When Detailing I remove the entire assembly & Clean all around it .Check the Spring & the Resting Rubbers then Grease & RED Loctite the sucker in there. If that bolt comes loose & the Square in the Locking Dog wares or breaks "boom boom" (out goes the lights) your bike falls down. Maybe you under it. I keep Springs & Rubbers in stock. GIX!! I need my Book back !! that my whole life in there .LMFAO! . . . . PEACE!!!
I would add having a look at the primary chain tensioner shoe on big twin evo's after 30,000 miles. I've seen those crack or break (including on my own '95 Fatboy).
I would imagine considering that the Eeveelution motor has not been produced by Harley for almost 20 plus years that all of the previous owners of an Evolution motor powered anyting would have replaced the Ina bearing long before now. My Evolution powered 1999 Sportster is like the Energizer Bunny it just keeps going and going and going and going.
The best thing you can do with a twin-cam if it is possible to go and replace the Shane Drive crap with a proper Gear Drive and not have to worry about it ever again never have service ever again never have to worry about catastrophic engine failure. What the Harley Factory should have done at the factory level they are forcing their customers to do at ridiculously high prices. How they can have such an expensive motorcycle with such cheap part in the engine in critical areas I can not imagine the sense behind this stupidity. Frankly for what Harley charges you could go to S & S Motors and get whatever kind of Harley motor you want and put it in a frame bought the primary drive to that Bolt the transmission true that and then just assemble all the cycle part and you don't have to pay for any thing you don't want on your bike.
I installed S&S gear drive cams and valve springs, upgraded cam bearings, Fueling oil pump and lifters, crankcase reed valve, programmable ignition, Jagg oil cooler with thermostat.Punched it out to 95" with 11/1 pistons. 42mm Mikuni flat slide carb on my 2003 FXDXT TC88 about 12 years ago. She makes 86 HP and 100 FT LB of torque.
nice. A 600 CC inline 4 easily makes 100 HP though. We spend a lot of money with little return when ya think about making HP. Next time your on the freeway just try to race any sport bike. I wish HD would do a modern inline 4 .
Good tips as always. After I change the oil in my Panhead, I start and run it with the return line going into a container. Then after it's running I let it run until I seen clean oil coming out then I shut it down and hook it up back up to the oil bag. Then I top it off and I'm good to go. Hard to do that with the newer bikes.
Yeah it's not something you can really do with the newer bikes, that's a great way to get all the oil out though. I may be weird but I hate mixing fresh oil with old stuff even if it's just a little.
@@GixxerFoo When changing your car or truck's automatic transmission fluid, disconnect the injector wires, or pull the fuel pump fuse, and turn the engine over, for 20-45 seconds, to help empty your converter, to get more "old" fluid out. I learned that "trick" from a mechanic in the Engineering Garage, at the GM plant I retired from, Hydramatic... Be sure to put the pan back on the trans first, unless you like cleaning up transmission fluid! lol
I like this channel, the information is helpful and well presented. Harley-Davidsons' suffer from dreadful engineering, and before you start leaving me nasty comments, please know that I've logged north of 250,000 miles on them in the last forty years, and near as many miles on other brands. Harleys are overpriced under engineered US manufactured motorcycles assembled from parts largely imported from off shore countries. I sold all but one of mine a number of years ago, and made the switch to other brands manufactured with imported off shore parts from othe countries.. So why did I hang on to my 2013 FLHR? It feels good, plain & simple. Rolling down the road at 75 mph with no where to go, and all day to get there - reminds me of a time long ago when the world was a simpler place and it hadn't yet occurred to me that I should check out the competition. My Harley handles like a dream just as long as I never have to turn, or stop. Ignorance truly is bliss? Must be, look at all the people out there fighting a loosing battle with age & gravity riding Harley-Davidson motorcycles.They're easy to spot, most of them are posers with no bugs on their jackets, wind screens, or their motorcycles for that matter. That happens when your big ride of the week is eleven miles for breakfast, or from bar to bar thinking your a badass. So what does this have to do with GixerFoo's maintenance presentation you ask? If you can't service your own motorcycle, or you don't have access to a reputable independent shop, you get to deal with the weakest link in the whole Harley ownership experience, that being the dealership. A recent interaction with my local dealer served to remind me of why I sold all but one of my Harley Davidsons. Rant over, thanks for your channel, GixerFoo, and the opportunity to comment. Keep up the good work, and stay free!
I have to agree Harley's do leave a lot to be desired stock and the price of entry doesn't help either. There are some awesome dealers and others that are just plain rip off shops, I've seen both. I gotta admit though the feeling you get from a Harley is like nothing else out there!
Harley lost a lot of good will over spring loaded cam chain tensioners, lost goodwill equals lost customers. I know as I am one of them. Even a bit of help would have gone a long way, but no help what so ever. Great video.
Your comment is completely comical. Why does Harley owe you good will?? No machine is built to last forever. Everything made has it’s issues with some part or assembly method. Sounds like you are quite the entitled person
@@anitabonghit266 Harley is well aware of the issues and did next to nothing about it thats why. The cam chain tensioner issue is huge. Has nothing to do with how long it should last. It was a FAILURE. HD knew it. They just kept building them until FINALLY upgrading to a hydraulic system.
One of the BIGGEST things overlooked is the "fall away procedure". Everyone refers to it as the "Death Wobble" but in reality it's a lack of maintenance. If the proper maintenance is done you'll NEVER experience a death wobble. There are people out there who have made gizmos that are "bolt on's" but are only masking the main problem (steering head). I've been doing this for 30 years and have this done even after purchasing a brand new POS HD. If upon completion of the service by the Stealership if its STILL not right TAKE IT BACK AND SAY ITS STILL NOT RIGHT!!!!!
That's a excellent point! The steering head fall away is a pain to do and a lot might feel that it's not necessary but it is critical to get that right!
Totally agree with you on this. Just picked up an 01 fxd and the forks were shit..so when I pulled them out, I addressed the stem bearings...its my honest opinion, that the grease..or lack of, had been there since it came off the production line.
@@DirtMvGirt yep, that's why I said I've been doing this long enough to know. I honestly think nobody does the fallaway procedure nor changes the fork oil. I changed a dudes fork oil that was so nasty that I almost vomited. He had 60k miles on it and NEVER changed it!!! I use the Jim's fork oil tool kit and a mighty vac and it's super easy that way. These new POS bikes don't even have drain plugs on them and require complete disassemblely of the forks to facilitate changing your fork oil. I wouldn't own anything new even if it was 1/2 price. Garbage...
The leading cause of the weave is rider posture. If you lay down on the tank it will miraculously stop weaving. Tire manufacturers have known it and explained it since the 60's. Everyone ignores that because if the bike is set up perfectly it won't weave, much, at legal speeds.
I just bought a 01 Electra Glide with the 88ci and it had just got the chain tensioners and lifters replaced at 33k miles👌 thank God he just had it serviced before I bought it
@@GixxerFoo may of been the reason it was in the shop for 8months after buying it🤷🏼♂️, I've had it a month and it runs great. Starts on the first crank, pretty sure I'm going to have to replace the inner primary cover gasket, it drips oil, about 2 drops a day
New lifters are a great excuse to change your cam out on the evos. Bought my bike used with 47k and i figure i was approaching 50k so i got new lifters, then a new intake, then a cam, then carb rebuild lol its a vicious cycle but upgrade fever is great and gets you to learn your machine by working on it yourself.
You might as well throw a cam in there too, cams on Evo's are inexpensive and it's all right there. Doing your own work is very rewarding and makes you one with the machine!
Did all my own work to my '96 fxds, andrews ev27, inner cam bearing, lifters etc. Never touched a harley prior to owning mine and have done everything myself. Its very rewarding plus you know where to check for issues since you get to know unfamiliar territory. Thanks for the reply buddy be safe out there!
I added an external breather to my 2018 after watching one of your past videos. It only has 3,500 miles on it and I did not want the top of my pistons loaded with carbon. I’m hoping I caught it early enough. Thanks for the tips.
Nice work! It will make a huge difference, even if you have carbon build up and then add an external breather the pistons will clear up over time. You for sure don't want that thick black coating of carbon on the pistons, raises your compression and not in a good way.
First thing I did to my ‘21 low rider S , that I just picked up in February! It’s homemade from Lowe’s and Ace hardware! I’ve had it for over 1k miles and it’s working great! Was super easy to make but requires you to drill holes through the stock Harley ventilator on the Low Rider S which some guys are not comfortable with. 1/4” fuel line and a brass tee and a couple of holes. Best mod on my bike so far.
Everything you mentioned, I’ve done.. I’m about to turn her in for the 10k mi service (2014 that I’ve polished more than I’ve ridden since I’m active mil).. I’m interested to see what my brake fluid and fork oil will look like…
Forgot to mention that you are probably the best tech guy and honest one of them all ,on UA-cam these other monkeys ,hint,hint are only about them self's and what they're doing do own stuff, but your the real deal ,keep it up brother and God bless
I do all my own work, i've built a few Choppers as well. One step at a time and double check everything and work slow. I've had to take stuff all apart and re do things before but at least you learn. I'd convert to a Chain final, i hate the belt just because when it breaks your fucked. Locktite everything and take your time, cant wait to hear her start up.
Good video, you didn't talk about the 1200 Sportster motor, so they don't have issues? A co-worker Harley is down for big repairs. He bought a 2008 Road Star for less than the Harley repairs. He's been thinking of just parting out Harley ride Road Star and save money to get a different Harley.Not to ruffle feathers what metric cruiser would you get if your Harley is down?
The 1200 Sportster engine is, and a lot of big twin owners hate to admit is almost perfect. The rigid mounts rocker boxes tend to leak over time which was redesigned in 2004 to eliminate some gaskets. Really the only thing on the Sportster and it's only a problem if you put a lot of power in one is the steel oil pump drive gear. Swap that drive gear out to a bronze gear and you're good to go. If I wasn't on a Harley, I personally like the Kawasaki Vulcans, especially the old mean streak.
@@GixxerFoo I only wish H-D would have made the Sportster 1200 into a 1325cc years ago. One more thing not all Harley shops are created equal in serving your bike. After bikes were in the shop for service seen friends air cleaner's fall off, new brake bolts loose, and other parts. My friend's belt broke after Harley shop said it's good for 20k miles. The bad apples make the good mechanics look bad. Find a good shop and treat them good. If I lived in California I would go to Laidlaw Harley, Matt Laidlaw nice down to earth person.
An old school mechanic once told me that before you change your oil to get the motor hot then spray some water into the intake while it's running and it like steam cleans the pistons and cylinders! Then change your oil. Your thoughts?
have heard that thought before. Never tried it. I change oil and filter a lot . Especially the filter. If the filter is constantly fresh the oil will last longer. One year just to see I changed my shovels oil every month. After a year when I drained it the stuff was still fresh looking. Not black not real dark. Viscosity looked great as well.
I've heard of that before, it will blow the carbon right off the top of the pistons. It does work, I've seen it done but never been brave enough to try it myself lol.
@@chopperchopster, having read about your work experience, I was wondering about your own thoughts about getting S&S gear driven cams to avoid the cam chain tensioner issue? I have a 2006 Night Train (carbureted). By the way, I bought it used, so I'm not sure of the service history, and when the last time the tensioner was checked. Thanks
@username6080 is your tc spring tension or hydraulic? I only ask because the hydraulic systems I see are still fine at 50,000 miles every time I check one. My opinion? S&S is a fine upgrade. If you have a spring tension system your checking them every 15K miles . They are hit and miss . I have seen those fail at 13k or last 80k . It's a crap shoot. I like S&S more than screaming eagle but that's just me
I am picking up my new Heritage Softail 114 as soon as we get a break in our Wisconsin weather. I asked the service department about a the Vented Dipstick ventilator for The Milwaukee 8. They said not needed. To avoid blow by simply do not fill the crankcase all the way full. Just two notches below full on the dipstick. Made sense but am guessing better to install the Vented Dipstick?
They are right about not filling the oil all the way too full, that's with any Harley or else you'll get oil out of the air cleaner. I personally would go ahead and still go with a vented dip stick or trans cover.
Oil is to always be checked hot. It takes at least 30 minutes on a good warm day of straight riding to get oil temp up because the oil tank/bag is remote and the oil isn’t sitting in the heat of the engine very long to warm up quickly, like in a car. When oil heats up it expands. Four to five dots down is about where you want it actually. Remember anything in that zone is fine. You don’t have to always keep it full
I'm trying to locate a breather valve. Kranck Vent was the name of the valve. It was manufactured by a company that went by the name E.T. Performance. Was distributed by a company named M.C. Advantages. They also sold a line of starters called Spike. A company called Hayden and a company called Sifton also make a similar breather valve. Do you know anything about these breather valves? How they compare to the Kranck breather Valve. Have run a lot of the Kranck valves without any failure. Can't locate this brand anymore. Do you have any thoughts of the Sifton or Hayden breather valves? Thank you, Sir.
When Twin Cam motors came out. Harley had a Recall for Cam Plate/Oil Pump Problems. Every motor for several years, was upgraded. It may not be in Service Manual. Factory Recall
Let's not forget about the twin cam compensator nut issue. Also the tc88 cam chain tensioners should probably be checked sooner than 40,000. Just my opinion. Some of those fell apart alot sooner.
Inspect the frame on 81 to 98 FLH where swing arm and engine is supported. Its a hollow gusseted arrangement. it traps water when you wash the bike and if you dont drill your own drain holes it will rust through. Ask me how I know. And now I dont wash motorcycles any more.
Not a whole on those bikes really than changing the oil and getting the valves adjusted. Open air box top is really good free and easy performance modification on those bikes.
Koyo B138 is also a replacement bearing for the stock inner cam bearing. An inner cam bearing tool is an essential for any evo owner who does their own work. The tool makes life easy changing that bearing out.
Man, what a great video! Great info, delivered in an encouraging manner, and Best of All... NO ARMS FLAILING ALL OVER THE PLACE!! I complained to you earlier on about the distracting 'arms flailing around' ! And since this video did not have the distraction, I thoroughly enjoyed watching it ! Great job!! Thank you!
Idk if it’s still a potential issue on some years, or if it’s been mentioned in the comments already, but that stupid “grenade” plate in the Sportster clutch can explode. I own a 2004 I bought new and replaced the stock clutch with an energy one and while the riveted plate in mine looked like brand new at about 30k, some people have reported theirs exploded. Love your channel ✌️.
Thank you! I've heard of that happening before where the rivets separate and grenades the clutch. I haven't seen it happen myself but I know it's been known to happen. I'll have to dig into it and see if the Sportster clutch was ever updated to better design.
@@GixxerFoooddly enough it wasn't upgraded or changed, I replaced mine in my 2018 and it's still the same. It's not a matter of if it will happen, it's a matter of when. If you Google it there's so many pictures of it happening. Another thing is swapping the oil pump drive gear as most know, and replacing it with a Buell bronze oil pump drive gear if one likes to rev their motor that's definitely an upgrade that should be done.
With my Sportster I use a pump to pump out the oil in the tank and then I spin off the old filter, and fill the oil tank and filter full of fresh oil. Miniscule amount of oil left in the lines I don't care about oh, it doesn't amount to much. My motor has lasted 370,000 miles so far so I must be doing something right.
I find it odd that you do not do any maintenance videos. You have a crap ton of knowledge, I would just like to see some of this in real-world episodes. Especially things like bypassing the crank case vent etc...
I tried to do some of those years ago but no one really watched them oddly enough. I'm due for a front tire and I'll be removing, changing, and balancing that myself so I'll film it along with some other scheduled maintenance I have to do.
Hey, could you do a video on rebuilding the Clutch master cylinder. I just bought a 2016 flhtp . It has all the symptoms of the recall , but the service has been done . So I get to do it myself.
Fuel consumption issue. My 2013 sat for just over 3 months while getting powder coating. The only engine work was removing and installing the exhaust. I’m hoping I didn’t get the sensors backwards. The issues are the engine appears to drop one cylinder at any constant speed. Then both kick when under any level of acceleration. What’s shocking is my fuel consumption has gone through the roof. Around 10 mpg! Something has gone wrong. Anyone experienced this?
That is strange, my wife's bike did that dropping a cylinder and then picking it back up. I found the clip that hold the injector connector on was broke and it would work its way off. But you might double check your sensor and all your connections. If you have a tuner, you might try flashing to a different map and then back to your current map. My bike started coughing through the throttle body and missing once, I reflashed my map and that took care of it.
The Gas filter should be replaced every 50K miles not 100K. My filter looked like it was clogged with yellow pollen or some weird alien crap. I did install an external breather vent to the bike. It's very gratifying to check the Air Filter to find it clean and free of oil contamination, and all that crap is not getting sucked into the throttle body
Loose components between the rider and the road, a seat mount, risers, triple tree, wheel, swing arm, bearings bushings end-spacing, fork oil imbalance, cartridge imbalance left and right shock imbalance, too much weight on one side of the bike, rear wheel out of alignment, one or both wheels offset to one side or opposite sides to counter roll center (of mass) offset (wide tire kits w spacers and not setting the engine plate 1/2 the thickness of the primary spacer in the opposite direction of the drive side keeping the mass centered, this is easy to check put plasti dip on about 45⁰ of the circumference covering the full width of the tire contact surface, drive in a straight line for as long as needed to wear the dip off, see if one side is worn off more than the other, compare and note any differences in lwft and right sides and discrepancy between the front and rear tires) also, cracked handlebars, front fender loose, rear fender bolts loose (2up) loose seat.
all really good stuff. id like to add: Harley tells you to " rebuild your front forks at 50k whitch is ridiculous. on my 2014 its a pain in the ass because you have to pull the forks but i dump and run anout every two years. now on my bike that equals 50- 60k but alot of guys have 10 year old bike that have 10-12k and its way over due.
@@GixxerFoo yeah i do mine about ever year / year and a half and the oil is discussing bad. i use amsoul 10w and it has seal conditioners and my almost 8 year old bike the seals are still good.
@@GixxerFoo When I go through my '05 Road King Custom, (total redo, as I've posted here before) I'm going to put better springs in my bike's forks, for better handling. Hitting curves, coming in "hot," they want to "dive"--I never have liked the bike doing that, and from what I've heard or read, putting in springs that are a little bit stiffer makes that issue go away...
Hello GixxerFoo, thanks for the great videos…is your video for converting an 88TC to 98” still on the InterWeb? I have an ‘01 FLHT Classic that I want to upgrade, nothing wild on the cams - basically an improved torqued. Thanks!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
💪🇦🇺💪 I had been talking with my Tech about changing my tensioners in the cam chest & primary case in my 2017 Twin Cam.... asked why is there a issue.... No just thought it might be worth doing.... Said would be an extremely good idea as I now have 65,000km.... Glad to know I was already on the right path👍💪 Living the FUCKING Dream ❗ Safe travels 🙏❣️ 💪Harley Davidson must do💪 💪Algorithm 💪
I recently bought a 2006 Dyna Wide Glide with 11,500 miles on it. Maybe it would be a good project next winter to replace all the rubber mounts. I’ll be do for tires by then so it’ll be partially tore down already so I may as well replace all the rubber bushings at that time wouldn’t you say?
@@GixxerFoo, thanks for the reply. I’m an engineer and I’ve been wrenching on cars, trucks, cycles, and boats for over 55 years, but I could use your advice on a good shop manual, or repair manual. Are any other that factory manuals worth having or should I look for one from Harley?
Fork oil every 10,000 miles, rear shock service every 20,000. Steering head bearing service every 20,000, replace on condition or every 3 inspection. New wheel bearings every third tyre. Replace brake fluid every 12 months.
There were some clutch issues with the rivets on those, the steel drive gear is all well and good until you start making some power then you need the bronze gear. Lol Buell found that out the hard way but it never made it into the XL.
Good points about service on particular types of bikes..i bought an 1989 ultra classic Evo..was that bike prone to the infamous wobble?..what is the fix? ..enjoy ur channel..ride safe😊
Twin Cam Tensioner " Some last 100K miles, some last 30K" ..... I would suggest a check of your came chain tensioners every 10K miles. Basically, your out the cost of a gasket if you know how to turn a wrench or a small labor fee. This is a small price to pay to be assured your bikes engine will last for many years to come. In addition, there are aftermarket tensioner pads which are said to wear better than OEM and can be purchased for less than $20.
i recently added a catch can due to excessive blow by TC96 St II. do i have to do something to get ride of the carbon on the piston or is it burning off over time? Love your videos, really excellent advice. Ride safe 🤙
@@GixxerFoo 53k :) Compression check was done 5k ago and checked out ok. Technician said due to S&S cam shafts, cam plate and bigger oil pump, the blow by is generated.... sounds right?
Kinda new to the Harley seen and I keep hearing about low rpm is killing it but nobody can seem to tell me what rpm is to low and what is to high and what is just right and I'm sure there are a lot of people who are in the same boat as me can you please give some insight on this
You basically don't want to be in too high of a gear for your speed, if the engine is chugging and not pulling your too high of a gear and too little throttle (rpm). With the single pin crank and the 45 degree design the way Harley's fire, that beats the crap out of the crank. You can actually shift the flywheels on the crank pin that way, that's why everyone says keep the rpm's up.
@@GixxerFoo so is 2000 luging or 3000 rpm right 2500 to 3000 seems smooth but so does more rpm and in lower gears 1700 to 2000 rpms seems pretty smooth as well in lower gears so that's why I'm curious about the rpm range, i I had a 11 heritage and tried for a ultra classic with a stage one and the rpm ranges smooth from 1700 to 3500 as i go through the gears where is the best rpm to run
@@brianblair7852 Just don't lug the engine. Another way to know optimal range is by looking at a power-RPM chart for your specific model, preferably stock ones; there are tons on the web. Generally, for these V-Twins 3000 RPM is a good way to go and maintain, but going down as low as 2300 is not bad for a calm ride, any lower and the throttle needs to be rolled up softly so the load isn't harsh on the crank or otherwise you will need to load the clutch first to let the flywheel gain momentum and load. Anyway, just don't lug the engine (it feels like it's one step away from stalling and the whole bike shakes violently back and forth).
I used to have a video on this on my channel but deleted it. For some dumb reason HD uses a 5/16" bolt and a 1/2" fits perfectly inside the mount. You have to drill the small fat washer but afterwards it'll work MUCH better than stock. Also helps to use a self locking nut on the bottom. Torture it to 15/ft lbs
I haven't seen a lot of the twin cams with lifter issues except the 110's. Those heavier springs and 255 cams shred the stock lifters on the 110 motors. I have heard of issues on the 96's with lifters from time to time but haven't seen one personally.
You really have to make one yourself, DK customs I believe has a kit and they do sell air cleaners ready to go with a external breather. Stock they are vented back behind the throttle body which goes back into the engine.
Do you have any maintenance items that were never listed in the service schedule?
Automatic primary chain tensioner. Replace it with manual tensionaer.
Will a manual tensioner reduce wear over the automatic tensioner?
@@fredrickhaemker8434 Either manual or hydraulic. Harley moved away from the automatic spring tensioners. They always tighten and can't loosen up so you end up with a chain way two tight and most people believe this is directly related to all their crank problems as well as problems with that chain and the tranny.
Any thoughts on the 124 S&S kit for the 06 night train fxstbi with the 88c.i. motor. Found your channel pretty recently and enjoy your thoughts and commentary.
I have a 2000 xlh1200. when I got the bike I replaced voes , fluids, clutch, filters, Carb Gaskets and Orings, fuel line, oil Drain line, voes hose, petcock and filter. I got really good deals on most of that so it didn't cost arm and leg. once that was done if bike was acting funny it would be easier to narrow down since so much was new. if I didn't get great deals on new parts then I wouldn't have done it. but I'm so glad I did.
Love the “HOG 40,000 Miles” patch! I did that one and half seasons…club life!
On Shovels as well as Evos, they had a little
screen strainer called the Witche's Hat. It was the big flat slotted screw on the engine block above the nose cone (cam cover) and to the rear or left side. That large slotted screw would hold the Witch's Hat, that had a spring looking thing that fit over it. It also required periodic inspection. If they get clogged up with debris, (the old shovelheads used horse hair filters). Oil passes through this "strainer" first, before it feeds the lifters n top end via the push rods on Evos. If this strainer gets clogged up, you are starving your lifters, pushrods n topend rocker boxes. This was the main cause of failure in valve trains. The Witche's Hat was always a neglected item.
You can change the oil a hundred times, if the strainer was clogged or partially clogged the valve train will eventually fail. Also cams with aggressive cam lobes can also wreak havoc with your lifters...
Ride Hard
Live Free
If you get S&S gear driven cams like I did about 100,000 miles ago, you never have to worry about those cam chain tensioners.
The gear drives are awesome! If you've got a solid crank in the bike they are one of the best things you can do on Twin Cam!
@@GixxerFoo I agree.
Yea they r better especially if u have done the crank but car manufacturers has been using the tensioners for years I believe the crank is probably more with the tensioners going bad especially if it is pretty bad all the wobbling the crank is doing can’t be good for anything especially tensioners
Yeah, just your crank out of true and tapers wearing out lol
Hey, Another great video. Thanks for the great content.
One thing that is always on my mind are the automatic primary chain tensioners like the one on my 2010 twin cam. Especially with my gear drive cams. I have tossed around the idea of going to a manual tensioner or something like the Baker or the Hayden (automatic). I would also consider the SE unit but have heard many stories about the noise they produce.
What are your thoughts on this and do you have any experience or preferences on a tensioner for the twin cam?
Your right, my 95 Softail Custom at 38,000 experienced a lifter failure. I was lucky I caught it before it caused more damage. The bike for the last 5 years was only driven by my friends, it was a spare bike after getting a new 2013 CVO Road King and a 2015 St Glide. I'm the original owner and I have to admit I did install at 13,000 miles an EV 27 cam and Edelbrock street heads. One lifter roller bearing failed and wiped out the cam. I replaced the cam with another EV 27 cam and Fueling lifters. Again, I replaced the inner roller bearing with a Timken and the outer bushing, I also install Ultima's roller rockers and Rocker Lockers.
Keep up the good work we appreciate it.
It’s great to see others discussing routine checks on early twin cam tensioners. 👍
The new spring tensioners aren't as bad as the original ones now, they have a better pad material on there too. Still a lot of debate on if it was spring tension or a bad run of timing chains though.
The external breather is the first thing I did to my new ‘21 FXLRS. I did it myself with 1/4” fuel line and a brass tee courtesy of Lowe’s and Ace hardware. You do have to drill holes in the backside of the stock Harley ventilator but it’s super easy, you can barely notice it and it does the engine a world of good.
If you don’t have a true stage 1 ventilator like the low rider S, or you don’t feel comfortable drilling holes in it, you can order a top notch high flow breather with an EBS from DK customs. All their breathers come with an EBS of your choice and they are some of the absolute best for performance. IMO. Non paid endorsement, I just really appreciate their products and the support they give. DK, all the way!
The ventilator air cleaner makes it pretty easy, nice and clean too! The heavy breather is pretty difficult and really hard to hide.
A video on how to check the rubber swing arm bushings on touring bikes. I had a late 90s roadking and the miles were low but it was wagging the tail at highway speeds. It didn’t go away until the swingarm bushings were changed but there was no good way to check them. They looked ok but I had no way to check for flex. Like a ball joint on a car we just stick a crowbar up in there and see what moves
That's a great idea and they are often overlooked!
Thanks my man! I'm a new Harley owner. I learned about the cam tensioners from guys like you putting this info out. I have an 05 Electra Glide, so I pulled my cam cover and found my tensioners on the verge of disintegrating! The bike only had 30K on it. I upgraded the cam plate to the screaming eagle with a new oil pump and hyd tensioners. Had I gone another 5K miles on it, it would have been disastrous! Appreciate the content, keep it coming!
Nothing like catching a problem right before it's catastrophic.
Install remote oil filter to reduce engine heat around 15*... also check engine mount bolt torque. They have known to come loose.
i also check the rubber lines on my sportster going into the oil tank. overetime they get brittle. great video.
Great point! That's a good one!
I have an 04 RK,been using MotorKote for last 12 years,good stuff!
Great tip on the oil cooler. Never thought of that.
Glad you liked it!
Right on ; big bore kit done ; tear down and bring up was 8 days . Fire up today .Yes carbon on head and piston . I’ll consider external breather . ✊🏻👍👌🙏
Good tips again
Thank you! That's awesome to hear you're back up and running! Let me know what you think of it when you get that all broke in!
@@GixxerFoo did 50 mi ride to break in rings below 3000 rpm . All good ; she bangs harder on grades . Less throttle twisting . Anxious to take back out for over 3000 rpm’s . Then oil change -
Mild build but only imagine what heads and more $$$ would do !!!-
Grateful for what I got -
I’ll track mpg later and disclose . ✊🏻👍👌👋
I was Facebookless for a long time and when I finally got it I didn’t know about groups. I had a ticking noise in my 88 Twin. I took it to one dealer and they said they couldn’t hear anything. I rode it home and the next day riding into work it jerked twice really hard. I called another dealer and took it to them. Cam bearing completely failed destroying one of the cams, shattered the oil pump and tore up the crank and case. If the dealer had said a long time ago “Hey this is a known issue with these” it could’ve been prevented. I still have that bike and I also bought a 19 RG. Now back to my comment about Facebook. I joined several Facebook groups and discovered transmission fluid transfer was a huge issue with the early M8 touring bikes. Never heard a word about it from the dealer. Facebook groups are your friend...the dealer not so much
Purchased a 7,300 mile 1999 heritage last April ,replaced inner cam bearing ,with S and S quickie pushrods .which sets me up for a easy lifter change . and yes panheads forever ,excellent post thank you
The good old Pans, I've got to dive into those cause there's still a few things left have carried over into today's motor.
@@GixxerFoo I will help you ,1964 74 inch duo glide ,
I have owned many panheads ,this one however will ride in front of my hearse for my final ride .
Great call, thanks for the tips.
Very informative material. A kind of recap of what you've discussed so far, after 125 videos. Yes, I took the trouble of counting all of them on because I'm a massive fan of your content! So, nice one and keep it going!
Thanks for sharing! I appreciate the support! I like to recap sometimes when I get a lot of questions in the comments, a lot of those videos get lost and buried over time.
@@GixxerFoo, many thanks for your kind reply. Would you please consider making a couple of videos about upgrading Shovel engines? Something like you did with EVO and TCs. Big bore or stroker kits, cams swaps, dyno charts and stuff like that. Cheers!
Good points. Checked my 2005 super glide cam chain tensioners recently and both look in good condition at 47000 miles. Mechanic thinks they are the original ones. Bit surprised they are in such good condition , but pleasant surprise.
That's really impressive, some motors just don't trash the tensioners. Most of the time they are due for a replacement at 50K and that's the max.
@@GixxerFoo looks like it's hit and miss. Some go as little as 20,000 miles and others 80, 000 miles. Maybe due to chain condition , type of riding , maintenance etc.
As a Extreme Detailer & a Wrench I see stuff the Grease Monkey's never I typically spend 30 or more hours with a bike .I see Nails in Tires, loose sprockets & misc. nuts & bolts. leaking forks, wrong axels , Bad brakes, Leaks (A Never ending list....) Even had one come in that all 3 holes where the Drain plugs were So loose I could See the O rings.(Finger licking loose) Probably the one thing NO ONE ever checks is the Jiffy Stand!! Make sure that thing is TIGHT!! Harley has the Best design with the locking tab (minus FXR , DYNA & Sportster) When Detailing I remove the entire assembly & Clean all around it .Check the Spring & the Resting Rubbers then Grease & RED Loctite the sucker in there. If that bolt comes loose & the Square in the Locking Dog wares or breaks "boom boom" (out goes the lights) your bike falls down. Maybe you under it. I keep Springs & Rubbers in stock. GIX!! I need my Book back !! that my whole life in there .LMFAO! . . . . PEACE!!!
I would add having a look at the primary chain tensioner shoe on big twin evo's after 30,000 miles. I've seen those crack or break (including on my own '95 Fatboy).
That's a good one! No one ever thinks of the shoe on the primary, those new automatic adjusters can give you some real problems!
Upgrading the cam bearing on evos while you're doing the lifters is a good idea
I would imagine considering that the Eeveelution motor has not been produced by Harley for almost 20 plus years that all of the previous owners of an Evolution motor powered anyting would have replaced the Ina bearing long before now. My Evolution powered 1999 Sportster is like the Energizer Bunny it just keeps going and going and going and going.
The best thing you can do with a twin-cam if it is possible to go and replace the Shane Drive crap with a proper Gear Drive and not have to worry about it ever again never have service ever again never have to worry about catastrophic engine failure. What the Harley Factory should have done at the factory level they are forcing their customers to do at ridiculously high prices. How they can have such an expensive motorcycle with such cheap part in the engine in critical areas I can not imagine the sense behind this stupidity. Frankly for what Harley charges you could go to S & S Motors and get whatever kind of Harley motor you want and put it in a frame bought the primary drive to that Bolt the transmission true that and then just assemble all the cycle part and you don't have to pay for any thing you don't want on your bike.
I installed S&S gear drive cams and valve springs, upgraded cam bearings, Fueling oil pump and lifters, crankcase reed valve, programmable ignition, Jagg oil cooler with thermostat.Punched it out to 95" with 11/1 pistons. 42mm Mikuni flat slide carb on my 2003 FXDXT TC88 about 12 years ago. She makes 86 HP and 100 FT LB of torque.
nice. A 600 CC inline 4 easily makes 100 HP though. We spend a lot of money with little return when ya think about making HP. Next time your on the freeway just try to race any sport bike. I wish HD would do a modern inline 4 .
What cam are you running? That motor should be putting down a lot more horsepower and torque.
Harley is getting close with that Revolution Max. What Harley's benefit is that they don't have to rev to the moon to make the power.
@@GixxerFoo 585 S&S. I'm happy with what it's doing.
Good tips as always. After I change the oil in my Panhead, I start and run it with the return line going into a container. Then after it's running I let it run until I seen clean oil coming out then I shut it down and hook it up back up to the oil bag. Then I top it off and I'm good to go. Hard to do that with the newer bikes.
Yeah it's not something you can really do with the newer bikes, that's a great way to get all the oil out though. I may be weird but I hate mixing fresh oil with old stuff even if it's just a little.
@@GixxerFoo it's not weird at all. I'm the same way, and oil is cheaper than bearings.
oil is cheap insurance!
@@GixxerFoo When changing your car or truck's automatic transmission fluid, disconnect the injector wires, or pull the fuel pump fuse, and turn the engine over, for 20-45 seconds, to help empty your converter, to get more "old" fluid out. I learned that "trick" from a mechanic in the Engineering Garage, at the GM plant I retired from, Hydramatic... Be sure to put the pan back on the trans first, unless you like cleaning up transmission fluid! lol
I like this channel, the information is helpful and well presented. Harley-Davidsons' suffer from dreadful engineering, and before you start leaving me nasty comments, please know that I've logged north of 250,000 miles on them in the last forty years, and near as many miles on other brands. Harleys are overpriced under engineered US manufactured motorcycles assembled from parts largely imported from off shore countries. I sold all but one of mine a number of years ago, and made the switch to other brands manufactured with imported off shore parts from othe countries..
So why did I hang on to my 2013 FLHR? It feels good, plain & simple. Rolling down the road at 75 mph with no where to go, and all day to get there - reminds me of a time long ago when the world was a simpler place and it hadn't yet occurred to me that I should check out the competition. My Harley handles like a dream just as long as I never have to turn, or stop.
Ignorance truly is bliss? Must be, look at all the people out there fighting a loosing battle with age & gravity riding Harley-Davidson motorcycles.They're easy to spot, most of them are posers with no bugs on their jackets, wind screens, or their motorcycles for that matter. That happens when your big ride of the week is eleven miles for breakfast, or from bar to bar thinking your a badass.
So what does this have to do with GixerFoo's maintenance presentation you ask? If you can't service your own motorcycle, or you don't have access to a reputable independent shop, you get to deal with the weakest link in the whole Harley ownership experience, that being the dealership. A recent interaction with my local dealer served to remind me of why I sold all but one of my Harley Davidsons.
Rant over, thanks for your channel, GixerFoo, and the opportunity to comment. Keep up the good work, and stay free!
I have to agree Harley's do leave a lot to be desired stock and the price of entry doesn't help either. There are some awesome dealers and others that are just plain rip off shops, I've seen both. I gotta admit though the feeling you get from a Harley is like nothing else out there!
Well stated, sir! 👍👍
96 ci twincams have primary chain tensioner problems also, which should be changed in order to avoid crank damages due to overtightening of primary.
Harley lost a lot of good will over spring loaded cam chain tensioners, lost goodwill equals lost customers. I know as I am one of them. Even a bit of help would have gone a long way, but no help what so ever. Great video.
Great point! They really did honestly, they screwed a lot of riders over that deal.
That's one reason I bought an EVO
@@johnmelton1777 me too!
Your comment is completely comical. Why does Harley owe you good will?? No machine is built to last forever. Everything made has it’s issues with some part or assembly method. Sounds like you are quite the entitled person
@@anitabonghit266 Harley is well aware of the issues and did next to nothing about it thats why. The cam chain tensioner issue is huge. Has nothing to do with how long it should last. It was a FAILURE. HD knew it. They just kept building them until FINALLY upgrading to a hydraulic system.
I would venture to say about the evo lifters; between 30k to 40k. My heritage needed them at 37k, and my electraglide at 34k.
Hey Tramp !
@@dictumfactum9468 Hey man!
I remember your videos of you changing those out! The lifter blocks being bolted on with the Evo makes the job a lot easier!
One of the BIGGEST things overlooked is the "fall away procedure". Everyone refers to it as the "Death Wobble" but in reality it's a lack of maintenance. If the proper maintenance is done you'll NEVER experience a death wobble. There are people out there who have made gizmos that are "bolt on's" but are only masking the main problem (steering head). I've been doing this for 30 years and have this done even after purchasing a brand new POS HD. If upon completion of the service by the Stealership if its STILL not right TAKE IT BACK AND SAY ITS STILL NOT RIGHT!!!!!
That's a excellent point! The steering head fall away is a pain to do and a lot might feel that it's not necessary but it is critical to get that right!
@@GixxerFoo That's 99.99% of the problem, should've mentioned it
Totally agree with you on this. Just picked up an 01 fxd and the forks were shit..so when I pulled them out, I addressed the stem bearings...its my honest opinion, that the grease..or lack of, had been there since it came off the production line.
@@DirtMvGirt yep, that's why I said I've been doing this long enough to know. I honestly think nobody does the fallaway procedure nor changes the fork oil. I changed a dudes fork oil that was so nasty that I almost vomited. He had 60k miles on it and NEVER changed it!!! I use the Jim's fork oil tool kit and a mighty vac and it's super easy that way. These new POS bikes don't even have drain plugs on them and require complete disassemblely of the forks to facilitate changing your fork oil. I wouldn't own anything new even if it was 1/2 price. Garbage...
The leading cause of the weave is rider posture. If you lay down on the tank it will miraculously stop weaving. Tire manufacturers have known it and explained it since the 60's. Everyone ignores that because if the bike is set up perfectly it won't weave, much, at legal speeds.
I just bought a 01 Electra Glide with the 88ci and it had just got the chain tensioners and lifters replaced at 33k miles👌 thank God he just had it serviced before I bought it
Whew I am surprised they made it to 33K, they were supposed to last for 30K but usually needed replaced around 15K at the most.
@@GixxerFoo may of been the reason it was in the shop for 8months after buying it🤷🏼♂️, I've had it a month and it runs great. Starts on the first crank, pretty sure I'm going to have to replace the inner primary cover gasket, it drips oil, about 2 drops a day
Good advice on the oil cooler!
Thanks 👍
New lifters are a great excuse to change your cam out on the evos. Bought my bike used with 47k and i figure i was approaching 50k so i got new lifters, then a new intake, then a cam, then carb rebuild lol its a vicious cycle but upgrade fever is great and gets you to learn your machine by working on it yourself.
You might as well throw a cam in there too, cams on Evo's are inexpensive and it's all right there. Doing your own work is very rewarding and makes you one with the machine!
Did all my own work to my '96 fxds, andrews ev27, inner cam bearing, lifters etc. Never touched a harley prior to owning mine and have done everything myself. Its very rewarding plus you know where to check for issues since you get to know unfamiliar territory. Thanks for the reply buddy be safe out there!
I added an external breather to my 2018 after watching one of your past videos. It only has 3,500 miles on it and I did not want the top of my pistons loaded with carbon. I’m hoping I caught it early enough. Thanks for the tips.
Nice work! It will make a huge difference, even if you have carbon build up and then add an external breather the pistons will clear up over time. You for sure don't want that thick black coating of carbon on the pistons, raises your compression and not in a good way.
Give er some full throttle here and there and burn those deposits up!
First thing I did to my ‘21 low rider S , that I just picked up in February! It’s homemade from Lowe’s and Ace hardware! I’ve had it for over 1k miles and it’s working great! Was super easy to make but requires you to drill holes through the stock Harley ventilator on the Low Rider S which some guys are not comfortable with. 1/4” fuel line and a brass tee and a couple of holes. Best mod on my bike so far.
What type did you buy?
@@jimfischione2743 DK Custom
Very informative Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Your the best of all...... seriously.... easy to understand.....
Everything you mentioned, I’ve done.. I’m about to turn her in for the 10k mi service (2014 that I’ve polished more than I’ve ridden since I’m active mil).. I’m interested to see what my brake fluid and fork oil will look like…
Brake fluid gets pretty brown after a few years, fork oil smells like a rotting body lol
@@GixxerFoo that’s a serious claim.. not sure I want to know how you know what a rotting corpse smells like..
Forgot to mention that you are probably the best tech guy and honest one of them all ,on UA-cam these other monkeys ,hint,hint are only about them self's and what they're doing do own stuff, but your the real deal ,keep it up brother and God bless
Wow!! my shovelheads must be bulletproof hahahahaha.
Lol Shovels are pretty solid if you go through them really well!
I do all my own work, i've built a few Choppers as well. One step at a time and double check everything and work slow. I've had to take stuff all apart and re do things before but at least you learn. I'd convert to a Chain final, i hate the belt just because when it breaks your fucked. Locktite everything and take your time, cant wait to hear her start up.
Good video, you didn't talk about the 1200 Sportster motor, so they don't have issues? A co-worker Harley is down for big repairs. He bought a 2008 Road Star for less than the Harley repairs. He's been thinking of just parting out Harley ride Road Star and save money to get a different Harley.Not to ruffle feathers what metric cruiser would you get if your Harley is down?
The 1200 Sportster engine is, and a lot of big twin owners hate to admit is almost perfect. The rigid mounts rocker boxes tend to leak over time which was redesigned in 2004 to eliminate some gaskets. Really the only thing on the Sportster and it's only a problem if you put a lot of power in one is the steel oil pump drive gear. Swap that drive gear out to a bronze gear and you're good to go. If I wasn't on a Harley, I personally like the Kawasaki Vulcans, especially the old mean streak.
Sportster oil cooler??
@@GixxerFoo I only wish H-D would have made the Sportster 1200 into a 1325cc years ago. One more thing not all Harley shops are created equal in serving your bike. After bikes were in the shop for service seen friends air cleaner's fall off, new brake bolts loose, and other parts. My friend's belt broke after Harley shop said it's good for 20k miles. The bad apples make the good mechanics look bad. Find a good shop and treat them good. If I lived in California I would go to Laidlaw Harley, Matt Laidlaw nice down to earth person.
I think it’s good to inspect your brake pistons, and rebuild the calipers and clean or replace the pistons if they’re not moving evenly.
Thanks Gixxer!
Any time!
Thank you! 🙂
Any time!
An old school mechanic once told me that before you change your oil to get the motor hot then spray some water into the intake while it's running and it like steam cleans the pistons and cylinders! Then change your oil. Your thoughts?
have heard that thought before. Never tried it. I change oil and filter a lot . Especially the filter. If the filter is constantly fresh the oil will last longer. One year just to see I changed my shovels oil every month. After a year when I drained it the stuff was still fresh looking. Not black not real dark. Viscosity looked great as well.
I've heard of that before, it will blow the carbon right off the top of the pistons. It does work, I've seen it done but never been brave enough to try it myself lol.
@@chopperchopster, having read about your work experience, I was wondering about your own thoughts about getting S&S gear driven cams to avoid the cam chain tensioner issue? I have a 2006 Night Train (carbureted). By the way, I bought it used, so I'm not sure of the service history, and when the last time the tensioner was checked. Thanks
@username6080 is your tc spring tension or hydraulic? I only ask because the hydraulic systems I see are still fine at 50,000 miles every time I check one. My opinion? S&S is a fine upgrade. If you have a spring tension system your checking them every 15K miles . They are hit and miss . I have seen those fail at 13k or last 80k . It's a crap shoot. I like S&S more than screaming eagle but that's just me
@@chopperchopster Thanks for the info and advice. I'm definitely looking into it (and the S&S option). Much Appreciated.
I am picking up my new Heritage Softail 114 as soon as we get a break in our Wisconsin weather. I asked the service department about a the Vented Dipstick ventilator for The Milwaukee 8. They said not needed. To avoid blow by simply do not fill the crankcase all the way full. Just two notches below full on the dipstick. Made sense but am guessing better to install the Vented Dipstick?
They are right about not filling the oil all the way too full, that's with any Harley or else you'll get oil out of the air cleaner. I personally would go ahead and still go with a vented dip stick or trans cover.
Do so! The vented dipstick on an M8 is a must have I highly recommend them.
Oil is to always be checked hot. It takes at least 30 minutes on a good warm day of straight riding to get oil temp up because the oil tank/bag is remote and the oil isn’t sitting in the heat of the engine very long to warm up quickly, like in a car. When oil heats up it expands. Four to five dots down is about where you want it actually. Remember anything in that zone is fine. You don’t have to always keep it full
@@anitabonghit266 Thanks! I actually ran into a long time Harley mechanic I know. He said the exact same thing.
@@Digger456437 well you did it again sir. I have been doing this professionally for 18 years
I'm trying to locate a breather valve. Kranck Vent was the name of the valve. It was manufactured by a company that went by the name E.T. Performance. Was distributed by a company named M.C. Advantages. They also sold a line of starters called Spike. A company called Hayden and a company called Sifton also make a similar breather valve. Do you know anything about these breather valves? How they compare to the Kranck breather Valve. Have run a lot of the Kranck valves without any failure. Can't locate this brand anymore. Do you have any thoughts of the Sifton or Hayden breather valves? Thank you, Sir.
When Twin Cam motors came out. Harley had a Recall for Cam Plate/Oil Pump Problems. Every motor for several years, was upgraded. It may not be in Service Manual. Factory Recall
Let's not forget about the twin cam compensator nut issue. Also the tc88 cam chain tensioners should probably be checked sooner than 40,000. Just my opinion. Some of those fell apart alot sooner.
Inspect the frame on 81 to 98 FLH where swing arm and engine is supported. Its a hollow gusseted arrangement. it traps water when you wash the bike and if you dont drill your own drain holes it will rust through. Ask me how I know. And now I dont wash motorcycles any more.
That's a good one! I have never heard of that before, but that does make sense!
@@GixxerFoo thanks for the reply
What about the revolution engine in the Vrod
Not a whole on those bikes really than changing the oil and getting the valves adjusted. Open air box top is really good free and easy performance modification on those bikes.
@@GixxerFoo thank you
Any recommendations for the "add on breather"?
While yer doing lifters on an Evo, might as well change out the stock Ina cam bearing for a Torrington, if ya haven't already.
That's an excellent point, get rid of that INA and put a Torrington in there.
Koyo B138 is also a replacement bearing for the stock inner cam bearing. An inner cam bearing tool is an essential for any evo owner who does their own work. The tool makes life easy changing that bearing out.
@@tommys2979 Yeah, Koyo now owns Torrington.
Man, what a great video! Great info, delivered in an encouraging manner, and Best of All... NO ARMS FLAILING ALL OVER THE PLACE!!
I complained to you earlier on about the distracting 'arms flailing around' ! And since this video did not have the distraction, I thoroughly enjoyed watching it ! Great job!! Thank you!
Top job again bro🔥👍
Thanks again!
Idk if it’s still a potential issue on some years, or if it’s been mentioned in the comments already, but that stupid “grenade” plate in the Sportster clutch can explode. I own a 2004 I bought new and replaced the stock clutch with an energy one and while the riveted plate in mine looked like brand new at about 30k, some people have reported theirs exploded. Love your channel ✌️.
Thank you! I've heard of that happening before where the rivets separate and grenades the clutch. I haven't seen it happen myself but I know it's been known to happen. I'll have to dig into it and see if the Sportster clutch was ever updated to better design.
@@GixxerFoooddly enough it wasn't upgraded or changed, I replaced mine in my 2018 and it's still the same. It's not a matter of if it will happen, it's a matter of when. If you Google it there's so many pictures of it happening. Another thing is swapping the oil pump drive gear as most know, and replacing it with a Buell bronze oil pump drive gear if one likes to rev their motor that's definitely an upgrade that should be done.
Great Video and Valuable Information!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I bought a new 2020 m8 and I have 33k miles no problems yet. Do oil changes every 4k miles
This was excellent!
Thank you!
I would say the evo cam bearing should be replaced if you are ever in the case or at 40,000 with the lifters
Absolutely, especially if you still have the INA bearing in there.
Great insights Foo!
I appreciate it! Thank you for your support on the channel!
Do you have a video on installing a remote oil filter and an oil cooler on Harley FXRs
I don't have a specific video for it, they aren't too bad to put on though. Quite a lot of plumbing on there but it's all external.
Do you have a video showing how to change the lifters on a Evo
Great video Gixx, what's your thoughts on lifter to bore clearance? I've heard it's critical and bad stuff happens if there is too much.
With my Sportster I use a pump to pump out the oil in the tank and then I spin off the old filter, and fill the oil tank and filter full of fresh oil. Miniscule amount of oil left in the lines I don't care about oh, it doesn't amount to much. My motor has lasted 370,000 miles so far so I must be doing something right.
That's a really good idea to pump out the oil tank! 37K is not even broke in on a Sportster engine.
@@GixxerFoo I have 370,000 Mi on my Sportster not 37,000 of course at 37,000 miles it looked a whole lot prettier than it does at 370,000 Mi.
Great review as always!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video....very helpful. Side note: I take a drink every time he says "go ahead"
I find it odd that you do not do any maintenance videos. You have a crap ton of knowledge, I would just like to see some of this in real-world episodes. Especially things like bypassing the crank case vent etc...
I tried to do some of those years ago but no one really watched them oddly enough. I'm due for a front tire and I'll be removing, changing, and balancing that myself so I'll film it along with some other scheduled maintenance I have to do.
@@GixxerFoo I'm looking forward to seeing that..... thank you
What about the breather gear on evo?
As always thanks Foo 🤘
We appreciate your support on the channel!
Great video 🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
Hey, could you do a video on rebuilding the Clutch master cylinder. I just bought a 2016 flhtp . It has all the symptoms of the recall , but the service has been done . So I get to do it myself.
That's not a bad idea, I remember those having the issue. Kinda funny they went back to a cable clutch on those bikes now.
@@GixxerFoo it would be nice if there was a way to switch over to a cable
Where exactly is it that you spray in some SeaFoam or Power Foam to clean the top of the pistons?
Pull your spark plugs, squirt a little bit in there and let it sit overnight.
Fuel consumption issue. My 2013 sat for just over 3 months while getting powder coating. The only engine work was removing and installing the exhaust. I’m hoping I didn’t get the sensors backwards.
The issues are the engine appears to drop one cylinder at any constant speed. Then both kick when under any level of acceleration.
What’s shocking is my fuel consumption has gone through the roof. Around 10 mpg! Something has gone wrong.
Anyone experienced this?
That is strange, my wife's bike did that dropping a cylinder and then picking it back up. I found the clip that hold the injector connector on was broke and it would work its way off. But you might double check your sensor and all your connections. If you have a tuner, you might try flashing to a different map and then back to your current map. My bike started coughing through the throttle body and missing once, I reflashed my map and that took care of it.
@@GixxerFoo awesome. Thx for the reply. I’ll give it a shot
Thank you for another good video...
Thank you! I appreciate your support of the channel!
The Gas filter should be replaced every 50K miles not 100K. My filter looked like it was clogged with yellow pollen or some weird alien crap. I did install an external breather vent to the bike. It's very gratifying to check the Air Filter to find it clean and free of oil contamination, and all that crap is not getting sucked into the throttle body
Awesome.., always looking for advice such as this…👍👍
Glad to hear that! Thank you for supporting the channel!
Loose components between the rider and the road, a seat mount, risers, triple tree, wheel, swing arm, bearings bushings end-spacing, fork oil imbalance, cartridge imbalance left and right shock imbalance, too much weight on one side of the bike, rear wheel out of alignment, one or both wheels offset to one side or opposite sides to counter roll center (of mass) offset (wide tire kits w spacers and not setting the engine plate 1/2 the thickness of the primary spacer in the opposite direction of the drive side keeping the mass centered, this is easy to check put plasti dip on about 45⁰ of the circumference covering the full width of the tire contact surface, drive in a straight line for as long as needed to wear the dip off, see if one side is worn off more than the other, compare and note any differences in lwft and right sides and discrepancy between the front and rear tires) also, cracked handlebars, front fender loose, rear fender bolts loose (2up) loose seat.
Good info thx👍
No problem 👍
all really good stuff. id like to add: Harley tells you to " rebuild your front forks at 50k whitch is ridiculous. on my 2014 its a pain in the ass because you have to pull the forks but i dump and run anout every two years. now on my bike that equals 50- 60k but alot of guys have 10 year old bike that have 10-12k and its way over due.
If you never changed the fork oil I could see likely needing a rebuild on the forks at 50K, but changing fork oil will take care of that.
@@GixxerFoo yeah i do mine about ever year / year and a half and the oil is discussing bad. i use amsoul 10w and it has seal conditioners and my almost 8 year old bike the seals are still good.
@@GixxerFoo When I go through my '05 Road King Custom, (total redo, as I've posted here before) I'm going to put better springs in my bike's forks, for better handling. Hitting curves, coming in "hot," they want to "dive"--I never have liked the bike doing that, and from what I've heard or read, putting in springs that are a little bit stiffer makes that issue go away...
Hello GixxerFoo, thanks for the great videos…is your video for converting an 88TC to 98” still on the InterWeb? I have an ‘01 FLHT Classic that I want to upgrade, nothing wild on the cams - basically an improved torqued. Thanks!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That's awesome! Yeah I'll drop you a link right here ua-cam.com/video/9wOurNkiMyk/v-deo.html, videos get lost and buried over time
💪🇦🇺💪
I had been talking with my Tech about changing my tensioners in the cam chest & primary case in my 2017 Twin Cam.... asked why is there a issue.... No just thought it might be worth doing.... Said would be an extremely good idea as I now have 65,000km.... Glad to know I was already on the right path👍💪 Living the FUCKING Dream ❗
Safe travels 🙏❣️
💪Harley Davidson must do💪
💪Algorithm 💪
That's awesome to hear you're getting those done, it will save you a lot of future headache!
I recently bought a 2006 Dyna Wide Glide with 11,500 miles on it. Maybe it would be a good project next winter to replace all the rubber mounts. I’ll be do for tires by then so it’ll be partially tore down already so I may as well replace all the rubber bushings at that time wouldn’t you say?
It's really not a bad idea if you some wear in them, they start drying out and cracking over time. It can save you a lot of headaches down the road.
@@GixxerFoo, thanks for the reply. I’m an engineer and I’ve been wrenching on cars, trucks, cycles, and boats for over 55 years, but I could use your advice on a good shop manual, or repair manual. Are any other that factory manuals worth having or should I look for one from Harley?
Can I squirt some BP blast in the cylinders with out hurting my motor to clean off the top of the piston
Fork oil every 10,000 miles, rear shock service every 20,000.
Steering head bearing service every 20,000, replace on condition or every 3 inspection.
New wheel bearings every third tyre.
Replace brake fluid every 12 months.
Good, I was running out of ideas to spend money on my bike. Thanks.
C8
@@Ed.Johnson miss
No worries! There's always something to spend money on with a Harley lol.
I can think of two on a Sportster, grenade clutch plate and steel oil pump gears.
There were some clutch issues with the rivets on those, the steel drive gear is all well and good until you start making some power then you need the bronze gear. Lol Buell found that out the hard way but it never made it into the XL.
I use a scavenger oil system every other change on my twink. On the shovel I disconnect the return line & run it till oil turns clear
That's a great idea on the Twin Cam, the more oil you can get out the better every oil change.
@@GixxerFoo
There’s at least a 24 oz of dirty oil in the twin cam that doesn’t come out just by draining. Scavenger gets it all out
Do the evo sportster need to look at the lifters at 40k too? I'm about to put bigger jugs and cams on anyway. So good to know now.
Good points about service on particular types of bikes..i bought an 1989 ultra classic Evo..was that bike prone to the infamous wobble?..what is the fix? ..enjoy ur channel..ride safe😊
Not so much on the Evo powered bikes but the Twin Cam bikes is when we really started to see that happen.
@@GixxerFoo Thnk u sir😊
Twin Cam Tensioner " Some last 100K miles, some last 30K" ..... I would suggest a check of your came chain tensioners every 10K miles. Basically, your out the cost of a gasket if you know how to turn a wrench or a small labor fee. This is a small price to pay to be assured your bikes engine will last for many years to come. In addition, there are aftermarket tensioner pads which are said to wear better than OEM and can be purchased for less than $20.
Good vid bro.
Thank you! I appreciate the support!
i recently added a catch can due to excessive blow by TC96 St II. do i have to do something to get ride of the carbon on the piston or is it burning off over time? Love your videos, really excellent advice. Ride safe 🤙
Thank you, I appreciate it! You might run a compression check to be safe if you're getting excessive blow by, how many miles are on the motor?
@@GixxerFoo 53k :) Compression check was done 5k ago and checked out ok. Technician said due to S&S cam shafts, cam plate and bigger oil pump, the blow by is generated.... sounds right?
WHat is that Barrel shaped Oil Cooler at 6:11? anybody know?
Kinda new to the Harley seen and I keep hearing about low rpm is killing it but nobody can seem to tell me what rpm is to low and what is to high and what is just right and I'm sure there are a lot of people who are in the same boat as me can you please give some insight on this
You basically don't want to be in too high of a gear for your speed, if the engine is chugging and not pulling your too high of a gear and too little throttle (rpm). With the single pin crank and the 45 degree design the way Harley's fire, that beats the crap out of the crank. You can actually shift the flywheels on the crank pin that way, that's why everyone says keep the rpm's up.
@@GixxerFoo so is 2000 luging or 3000 rpm right 2500 to 3000 seems smooth but so does more rpm and in lower gears 1700 to 2000 rpms seems pretty smooth as well in lower gears so that's why I'm curious about the rpm range, i I had a 11 heritage and tried for a ultra classic with a stage one and the rpm ranges smooth from 1700 to 3500 as i go through the gears where is the best rpm to run
@@brianblair7852 Just don't lug the engine. Another way to know optimal range is by looking at a power-RPM chart for your specific model, preferably stock ones; there are tons on the web. Generally, for these V-Twins 3000 RPM is a good way to go and maintain, but going down as low as 2300 is not bad for a calm ride, any lower and the throttle needs to be rolled up softly so the load isn't harsh on the crank or otherwise you will need to load the clutch first to let the flywheel gain momentum and load. Anyway, just don't lug the engine (it feels like it's one step away from stalling and the whole bike shakes violently back and forth).
Thanks you have finally convinced me, I’m selling my Harley and buying a Honda .
You meet the nicest people on a Honda.
Lol when Honda did that back in the day that was very well played at the time.
@No Tan Commando My mind says Goldwing. My bank statement agrees with you, however.
I hear the Honda ST1300 had major problems with speed wobbles . All big makes have their problems.
Get rid of the 5/16" center bolt on the front motor mount and install a 1/2" one.
I used to have a video on this on my channel but deleted it. For some dumb reason HD uses a 5/16" bolt and a 1/2" fits perfectly inside the mount. You have to drill the small fat washer but afterwards it'll work MUCH better than stock. Also helps to use a self locking nut on the bottom. Torture it to 15/ft lbs
Doesn't the newer engines like my 2007 FLHX have lifter issues and need to be replaced? I've been told about 40K miles as well.
I haven't seen a lot of the twin cams with lifter issues except the 110's. Those heavier springs and 255 cams shred the stock lifters on the 110 motors. I have heard of issues on the 96's with lifters from time to time but haven't seen one personally.
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a m8 107 with a stage 1. Where can I find the external breather????
You really have to make one yourself, DK customs I believe has a kit and they do sell air cleaners ready to go with a external breather. Stock they are vented back behind the throttle body which goes back into the engine.
On my 95 I got 95kk on my lifters. I replaced them but my old ones were still good.