This video was a life saver. I'm a novice electrician at best so when I forgot to document the wiring before I disconnected it to clean it up. Thanks! 👏🏻🙏🏻🍻
You should also mention, for those who have classic cars and have an alternator that needs to be excited( turned on), to put a manual switch on the ignition side. If not you will burn out the internal regulator on startup with all that simultaneous current draw from pumps and sarter. I did, so when I start her up, I give her a little shot of gas that excites the alternator(turning it on), then flip the switch to the pressure switch, and you're golden. Trust me..... lol
Thanks a lot man, the person who wired my airbags went about the entire situation wrong but after watching the video was able to install a relay and actually install new compressors.
Dang good explanation for amp draw, this can also be applied to stereo systems, amplifiers, winches, electric turbos (which don't really work well unless you have a 24 to 48 Volt system) in short, this theory/fact will literally work for almost any thing added to the vehicle (after factory) that has +5 amp draw, maybe even less. I was thinking I had to run the same gauge ground wire as the +B on the relay/solenoid ground side, this is so much easier thank you.
Excellent video! I've got my compressor and tank mounted and was concerned on how to wire it, correctly. You've definitely answered those questions. Thank you, so much!!!
❤❤❤ I have four air compressors in my system to operate my air horns in my pick up truck. I have two starter relays heat starter relay operates to air compressors. I’ve got four gauge wire going from the battery ground and negative to my Terminal blocks in my toolbox, talk all 4 air compressors, get the proper ground and proper positive electricity going to them. ❤❤❤
Excellent explanation for wiring compressor/s. I have an accuair endo ct tank that I've had setup for a couple years now. It recently failed, as they all have, but after unplugging it and opening a couple ports up on it for a week I found that it came back to life. I could hear the compressor kick on then off on start up even when it was failed. Eventually it failed again, as I knew it would, but I noticed it was kicking off at 160 psi instead of 200 before it failed completely for the second time. This lead me to believe that it's the pressure switch that's failing and not the compressor as I can hear the compressor kick on for a moment at start up and it sounds healthy. I plan on opening up the assembly to see if there's a way I can hack/delete the switch. I'm thinking if that's even possible that I can run a manual switch to turn the tank on/off via ground. If I'm unable to hack the ct then I'll just be using as a tank and running an external compressor. Any thoughts or ideas about trying this hack?
Awesome video! The best way to check your wiring is to do a voltage drop test. B + to input of compressor motor while running. B- to motor negative. The SAE gives allowances for voltage drops on circuits. If this doesn’t make sense Motor Age made a great video on voltage drop testing with a guy named Joe Glassford. It’s worth watching on UA-cam.
I know this is a couple years old but a couple things; The reason for grounds ran in a wire harness is you simply need positive and negative cables. The grounds are not all brought to the battery from a manufacture because the body is indeed conductive enough as long as its metal, Unlike Corvettes for instance but different topic. The reason for common ground spots is so you don't have grounds all over as that equates to a very messy and expensive wiring harness. The positive cable is more crucial, They are equally important HOWEVER, It is not the negative that gets so hot it melts then burns your car down! The reason for this is because you are correct that voltage does flow from negative to positive BUT current (Amperes) flows from positive to negative. Wires will take voltage all day long, It's the amperage that will get you. We measure voltage because where there is voltage drop, there is some pissed off choking amperes taking that voltage down and a volt meter is cheaper than a amp meter. Vehicles are spot welded prior to any coating so conductivity should never be a issue. (I personally have never had this issue or seen it) I install systems with thousands of actual watts, I do not run negative cables front to back. I do run a negative to the chassis for every positive, amps never grounded on the battery. I personally have 4 runs of 2/0 from alternatorS back, I am not paying to run 4 2/0 back. Also important to note that a battery is not really the source of power, It stores it, The alternator produces power. Many times people say to ground close to the starter, common sense is the starter only draws for (hopefully) no more than a second, It has a engine and transmission to absorb it's amps it don't use. The alternator albeit does as well however if the car is running the alternator is doing its magic (again hopefully) and it's for a much longer duration (Know what I write here?) None the less, Your explanations will not burn a car down and that gets a 👍
This may be a dumb question, does anyone know if it’s safe to ground everything to the negative side of the battery? Awesome video btw every single word of it has been so helpful
That would be just fine in this scenario. Negative post of the battery is the direct source for the power/ground (when not running) and the ideal grounding spot. Alternator is the source of power when vehicle running, but you wouldn't want to tap your power into the alternator post since they usually have small wires to the battery, and when the vehicle isn't running your load would be trying to go through the small alternator to battery wire.
❤ I am running 4 gauge wire from my battery to my 80 amp fuse when the four gauge wire goes underneath my truck into my toolbox I constructed a ground bus and a positive bus for my power supply. Then I have 15 amp fuses in a mounted fuse box each 15 amp fuse, goes to its own individual designated air compressor. I am using. 4 VIAIR air compressors for my air horns in my pick up truck. I also have two starter solenoids each starter solenoid runs to compressors. I have a pressure switch that activates 2 air compressors. In the quarter inch manifold there are two pressure switches each pressure switch turns on and off 2 VIAIR air compressors. I have a pressure gauge inside of my truck that monitors the air pressure going in the tank gauge also has a second needle that monitors the air pressure that’s been released to the air horns I can increase or decrease the air pressure that’s going to my airhorns, depending on how loud I want my Hons to be. With the system that I put together, I can also inflate a flat tire in the matter of seconds.. I have pumped up the air pressure all the way up to 250 psi and none of my air hoses have blown apart NOT ONE ! When I go to the car show in Glendale, Arizona on Bell Road anybody that sees my system in the toolbox of my pick up truck is actually blown away with the extreme detail of how I put it together. Years ago, I was fortunate enough to work for Wellcraft marine building, offshore racing boats for scarabs I put three of them together for the Miami Vice TV show starring Don Johnson. My air system is controlled by one switch in my pick up truck if I turn it on all 4 air compressors are activated. They will pull it up to 170 psi, and then shut off. This is my insurance policy to wake people up if they come close to hitting my truck. The horns are to protect people from hitting me call it a WAKE UP CALL for the circus clowns ❤❤
I want to thank you for your help with wiring up the different versions of compressor wirings, I finished up my twin compressor wirings system by using the 100 amp fuse and the 80 relay system and my on board air system works great
I don’t have a video on it. You would just jump from one relay to the next for the compressor turn on and ground. For the power wire run either direct wires back or do some type of fused distribution. It gets cluttered when you have all 8 wires together. That’s why an 80 amp makes things a lot cleaner
Good morning! I’ve destroyed 2 solenoids. The power wire from the battery has melted the bolt housing TWICE 😢. Good ground… clueless as too what could be causing the wire to get so hot. Any thoughts?
Hi . Thank you for putting out this video! (I am also a newbie). I would like to install a VIAIR pump in a 5th wheel trailer. My rig has 2 12V batteries connected in parallel and, of course, no ignition switch. I plan to mount the pump close to my batteries and I'm entertaining the thought of connecting it directly to the batteries - of course using the fuse and Relay as indicated by the wiring diagram. Because there is no ignition circuit, I don't know how to go about connecting the on/off switch. Can you suggest a safe way to connect the switch? Thanks!
Hi nicely explained, just wondering if I’m using an 8 awg wire for the power how do you connect it to the relay ? What size female spade connector do I need for the wire ?
Universal; after watching your excellent videos I noticed on the Air Lift Performance brand, that the packaged wiring harness didn’t actually have any grounding specific wires to mount on my car’s frame. Do you think there Any concerns with this brand’s method of wiring and longevity for the compressor? I personally want rip into the harness and adjust to your vid.
They run the ground up to the battery which will be a good spot. I personally think it’s a little light on the gauge, but it should be sufficient as it’s decent wire. Biggest thing is if your running two compressors, pickup the 2nd compressor harness.
I went out side and my car flat to the ground I started my car and I don’t hear anything my Compressor is not making any sounds to pump up the car I bought this car with This air ride suspension so I have no idea so I need to check the ground wire because it’s making no noise right I appreciate your videos so much you’re a real help thank the Lord for you
When you say ignition is that Key on BEFORE starting or with Starting? Probably a dumb question but I just don’t know… hope to hear from ya soon… great video. Better than the instruction that came with my kit.
Exactly what I was looking for. My compressor was dipping my battery to 10 volts so I needed to upsize the wire gauge and upgrade my alternator. Classic bugs don't like modern wiring haha
If your battery voltage is dropping to 10 volts, those are excellent things to check. Also check the ground circuit on charging. (engine to chassis/chassis to battery)
@@UniversalAir I ended up keeping the sam alternator, just changed the wire gauge and good call on checking the ground, I had to sand down the contact points and it works perfectly now
Great video! I have my dual 444 wired up but haven't tested it yet. Anyways, don't you think the oem wires coming out from the compressors could be thicker? I think viair could go up a size or two.
As someone who knows nothing about electricity, this is too much to take in. Is this hard to do if you buy a complete kit? I would assume it comes with everything you need.
The real work of air install isn't the struts, for sure the wiring of the electronics 😤 I'm a mechanic and am trying to get this done over the weekend, but honesty it's slightly intimidating. Thanks for the help! Going to be buying the items in link, running dual 444 Vlairs so the info helps a lot, and I have a long sedan so I do appreciate this haha. Question, would you reccommend parallel wiring a secondary battery? I realise this is even more work, but don't see the downsides? (Aside from space & work) if my modern car already has a good enough alternator?
Hey I am currently doing my install but am very intimidated with the install any guides you used to install this , I am absolutely clueless with electronics and having a very hard time wiring them.
@anthoniep483 I'd just pay a specialty shop to install in your case tbh, call for an estimate and pick one with good reviews within your budget. It's not worth messing something up and costing more, imho 😤
On the smaller ground you showed on the relay can you upgrade that ground wire to a thicker gauge and still use that to ground the relay and compressors at the same time.. thanks for your response. Great video by the way
I have viewed your vid countless of times lately. In my charger setup. I have 2 viair 444 on individual 40amp but ONE always goes out after a year or so. I fouhd a leak in one head and using your test on the filter. and put a new valve on the line. Would you recommend me going to the 80amp, that way wont keep blowing a fuses after a spike in usage.
I would suggest to check the voltage going into the pumps. You might not have a good enough ground connection. If its connected to the sheet metal, move it to either the battery directly, or at least the post where the battery is connected.
Just connect the output of the pressure switch to both relays for the turn on. Jump from one to the other or two wires off the same prong on the pressure switch.
Factory ground studs are usually good, and found in different parts of the vehicle. There are usually a few under the hood. He showed briefly how to find a good ground using Ohm setting with the multimeter. You can take the multimeter probes and put one side on battery negative, and use the other probe in different areas to see if they have a good connection
Its usually two scenarios. The compressors just can't hit the pressure so it never turns off (replace pumps) or it would be from welded contacts. Either inside the pressure switch which is typically caused by not running a relay and moving too much amperage, or in the relay/solenoid from pulling too much current. If its inside your relay/solenoid I would make sure its rated for the amperage your pulling. If so, I would verify the voltage at the pumps after replacing it. If you have low voltage at the compressors, its going to pull more amperage which would cause it to stick the contacts.
Can I run The Pressure Switch Wire to the Switch Pros RCR-Force-12 Command Module? And would it be better to use the 80AMP Solenoid on a Viair 485C Dual Compressor System? Can I run The Carli Air Bags off of my own Dual Compressor with 2.5 Gallon Air Tank? Another feature I would like is to be able to control the pressure in each bag individual so I am not opposed to hard switches and dual Gauges in the dash. Guy at shop is telling me I can't. I want the dual system I am contemplating to run Front/Rear Lockers, One Air Chuck Center Front Bumber & One Center Rear Bumper Mounted Quick Female Disconnects, and Possibly one other accessory, My tank has (6) 1/4" NPT Ports and assume I will need one for air in (maybe two for dual compressors) and one on bottome for Drain/Safety Valve. What Powers/Actuates the Bags? I am running a Switch-Pros RCR-Force-12 Power System On board as well if that helps.
This is how i have my system wired with the solenoid and when I turn my battery on my compressors go on with nothing else on. Meaning ignition is off so the ecu is not on. Even if I turn ignition on the compressors still run and the ecu turns on. Do you think it is a bad solenoid? I have a 2nd solenoid and it did the same thing. I am going to test ground and the solenoid. I am running accuair.
What do you mean by ignition when talking about the pressure switch. Can it be any 12v power. Like could I just splice into my power wire from my wire that goes into my amp
I would suggest away from tapping into the stereo system. It will tend to induce noise when the solenoid/relay is turned on/off. My go-to source for an ignition is the 12 volt power plug, aka Cig lighter. Typically they will be an ignition source (switched)
But you need to run a ground to the 80 amp relay or you won't have power to the relay at all, right? Cause my relay won't give power unless I connect a ground to one of the little posts
Also have 2 444c compressors, wired it up originally and one compressor wire got too hot, yet the other one is perfectly fine.. disconnected the hot wired one and now I get no power through the relay
assuming your not running a huge stereo system it shouldn't be a problem. Best thing is to just check your voltage at the compressors with them running.
this might be silly but would it be possible to run the wire going up to the ignition off the pressure switch to an 12v on/off wire that turns on/off my subwoofer amp? it'd make this install the tiniest bit easier since everything would be in my trunk
What do you think abut a tank drain? Also water traps, can that be installed in any air system? How do you feel about safety pressure relief valves on tanks?
I would recommend to drain the tank. Of course, the more humid your environment is, the more often it needs to be done. Water traps can be installed, however they won't collect all the water between the tank and the compressor since the air is hot. We recommend to put them between the tank and valves to prevent debris from going into the valves. Safety relief valves are fine, we typically don't run them since the tank's, fittings, line etc is rated for a lot higher pressure then the compressors can physically make. If your running compressed gas with a nitrogen, helium or especially CO2, then i would HIGHLY recommend it incase of a regular failure, or the natural pressure raise of CO2.
Im still confused about the power wire guage.. do we need separate fuse holders if we're running an amplifier? From the battery to the trunk should there be separate power wires with separate fuses for compressor and amplifier? Also im running single pump what gauge wire do i need if my cars 22ft (classic car) and what size fuse?
Yes you would want to fuse the compressors separately. Depending on which compressor your running (they have different amp draws), wire type (aluminum vs copper), quality of wire etc would all effect the "proper" size. Personally I would run an 8 awg wire.
Quick Question i need help long story short i have the accuair e-level with the VU4 manifold running 2 VYAIR 444C. wasn't happy with the previous install. I took the complete system out and watch this video i decided to reinstall using the 80amp solenoid my accuair wire harness has the ignition wire plugged into it so am lost in how i wire the ignition wire also my pressure switch is not on the tank its separate for it am lost here any help would be appreciated thank you.
Is using a jumper cables(4-6ga) physically bolted to the battery posts safe enough to run a Napa dual pump air compressor(90A) about 15-20ft away? Fused, of course.
Sorry for the delay. 90 amps, 20 feet away is a big ask. If that's the running current, I would absolutely not run that. Startup current is substantially higher. Online calculator says for 90 amps you should be running 1 awg for copper and 2/0 for aluminum for a 5% voltage drop. If its been hooked up that way, use the multimeter to measure how much voltage you have at the compressors while they are running. I would suspect that wire will be getting hot, or their amperage rating might be inflated.
I blew 2 relays already everything turns on at frist but when the tank or the pressure switch hits 170 psi the relay just fails could it be ground issue? Or can it be that I have the signal wire connected to the relay and I just taped into that wire and put the pressure switch? I used relay and solenoid so I’m kinda stuck
Will these compressors work with lithium battery 80ah bank yinlong and 270 amp H.O. alternator that charges at 15.5 volts ? That's my current electrical with my audio system in my vehicle. The car and everything else seems to work okay with it .
The compressors tend to work more efficient at the higher voltages. That much over a normal 14.4 I would run it. They will run faster, so there is a potential for a little more wear on them. But personally I think it would be offset by the less heat. When you run a compressor at lower voltage, they tend to get significantly hotter then with proper voltage.
What voltage are you seeing at the battery and at the pumps while they are running? A 2 volt drop is a lot, however if your at idle and your alternator isn't putting out much power, you might not that the full drop.
I’m setting up an onboard air system on my ‘22 Power Wagon. It is mounted where my spare tired used to be. I’m running dual Viair 485C compressors, Viair website states the combined max amp draw is 46 amps. Would I be ok to run 8 awg wire a distance of about 12’-15’ the distance from the battery back to the spare tire area? Thanks!
That is the rated running current but startup is always higher. If your talking per pump that's fine, but for the pair I would recommend to run larger.
Are you using an 80amp or 100amp fuse for the PAC 80amp single relay? In the video, you are using a 100amp, but is the correct size to use for dual 444c? I assume the 100 amp is being used because of voltage spikes.
excellent wiring advice. this is the quality youtube was intended for. thank you for your service.
Thank you very much!
Best video for compressor/wire planning.
Good stuff right here!
Zack will make you an expert on Air Suspension Systems
This video was a life saver. I'm a novice electrician at best so when I forgot to document the wiring before I disconnected it to clean it up. Thanks! 👏🏻🙏🏻🍻
Glad it helped
And yes, bad ground means blown fuse. I did change a lot of them until I relocated the ground. Thanks for your advice Zack. regards from Mexico.
You should also mention, for those who have classic cars and have an alternator that needs to be excited( turned on), to put a manual switch on the ignition side.
If not you will burn out the internal regulator on startup with all that simultaneous current draw from pumps and sarter.
I did, so when I start her up, I give her a little shot of gas that excites the alternator(turning it on), then flip the switch to the pressure switch, and you're golden.
Trust me..... lol
Thanks for this video, it makes so much sense. I had someone else installed my airbags and the burned out the wires.
Thanks a lot man, the person who wired my airbags went about the entire situation wrong but after watching the video was able to install a relay and actually install new compressors.
Most informative video yet on DC compressor wiring, Top job, Cheers from Michael. Australia.
Excellent video and wiring info. It's practically a crash course in wiring anything aftermarket to your vehicle.
Dang good explanation for amp draw, this can also be applied to stereo systems, amplifiers, winches, electric turbos (which don't really work well unless you have a 24 to 48 Volt system) in short, this theory/fact will literally work for almost any thing added to the vehicle (after factory) that has +5 amp draw, maybe even less. I was thinking I had to run the same gauge ground wire as the +B on the relay/solenoid ground side, this is so much easier thank you.
Great video, I’ll be referring back to this when I re-commission my airride install. Many thanks
So incredibly helpful. Thank you very much!
Excellent video! I've got my compressor and tank mounted and was concerned on how to wire it, correctly. You've definitely answered those questions. Thank you, so much!!!
❤❤❤ I have four air compressors in my system to operate my air horns in my pick up truck. I have two starter relays heat starter relay operates to air compressors. I’ve got four gauge wire going from the battery ground and negative to my Terminal blocks in my toolbox, talk all 4 air compressors, get the proper ground and proper positive electricity going to them. ❤❤❤
Excellent explanation for wiring compressor/s.
I have an accuair endo ct tank that I've had setup for a couple years now. It recently failed, as they all have, but after unplugging it and opening a couple ports up on it for a week I found that it came back to life. I could hear the compressor kick on then off on start up even when it was failed. Eventually it failed again, as I knew it would, but I noticed it was kicking off at 160 psi instead of 200 before it failed completely for the second time. This lead me to believe that it's the pressure switch that's failing and not the compressor as I can hear the compressor kick on for a moment at start up and it sounds healthy. I plan on opening up the assembly to see if there's a way I can hack/delete the switch. I'm thinking if that's even possible that I can run a manual switch to turn the tank on/off via ground. If I'm unable to hack the ct then I'll just be using as a tank and running an external compressor. Any thoughts or ideas about trying this hack?
THAT WAS CLEAR AND PERFECT EXPLAINING.. IV BEEN ON A LOT YOYTUBES AND YOURS WAS GREAT 8 STARS THANK YOU. LOOKING FORWARD TO MORE INFO ON YOUR FB.
Excellent details and real information. Thanks for that. Great to hear from someone who knows their stuff.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! The best way to check your wiring is to do a voltage drop test. B + to input of compressor motor while running. B- to motor negative. The SAE gives allowances for voltage drops on circuits. If this doesn’t make sense Motor Age made a great video on voltage drop testing with a guy named Joe Glassford. It’s worth watching on UA-cam.
Thanks this is one of the most helpful wiring videos Ive watched!
I know this is a couple years old but a couple things; The reason for grounds ran in a wire harness is you simply need positive and negative cables. The grounds are not all brought to the battery from a manufacture because the body is indeed conductive enough as long as its metal, Unlike Corvettes for instance but different topic. The reason for common ground spots is so you don't have grounds all over as that equates to a very messy and expensive wiring harness.
The positive cable is more crucial, They are equally important HOWEVER, It is not the negative that gets so hot it melts then burns your car down!
The reason for this is because you are correct that voltage does flow from negative to positive BUT current (Amperes) flows from positive to negative. Wires will take voltage all day long, It's the amperage that will get you. We measure voltage because where there is voltage drop, there is some pissed off choking amperes taking that voltage down and a volt meter is cheaper than a amp meter.
Vehicles are spot welded prior to any coating so conductivity should never be a issue. (I personally have never had this issue or seen it) I install systems with thousands of actual watts, I do not run negative cables front to back. I do run a negative to the chassis for every positive, amps never grounded on the battery. I personally have 4 runs of 2/0 from alternatorS back, I am not paying to run 4 2/0 back. Also important to note that a battery is not really the source of power, It stores it, The alternator produces power. Many times people say to ground close to the starter, common sense is the starter only draws for (hopefully) no more than a second, It has a engine and transmission to absorb it's amps it don't use. The alternator albeit does as well however if the car is running the alternator is doing its magic (again hopefully) and it's for a much longer duration (Know what I write here?)
None the less, Your explanations will not burn a car down and that gets a 👍
Thank you for this really insightful video . 🙏✌️
This may be a dumb question, does anyone know if it’s safe to ground everything to the negative side of the battery? Awesome video btw every single word of it has been so helpful
That would be just fine in this scenario. Negative post of the battery is the direct source for the power/ground (when not running) and the ideal grounding spot. Alternator is the source of power when vehicle running, but you wouldn't want to tap your power into the alternator post since they usually have small wires to the battery, and when the vehicle isn't running your load would be trying to go through the small alternator to battery wire.
❤ I am running 4 gauge wire from my battery to my 80 amp fuse when the four gauge wire goes underneath my truck into my toolbox I constructed a ground bus and a positive bus for my power supply. Then I have 15 amp fuses in a mounted fuse box each 15 amp fuse, goes to its own individual designated air compressor. I am using. 4 VIAIR air compressors for my air horns in my pick up truck. I also have two starter solenoids each starter solenoid runs to compressors. I have a pressure switch that activates 2 air compressors. In the quarter inch manifold there are two pressure switches each pressure switch turns on and off 2 VIAIR air compressors.
I have a pressure gauge inside of my truck that monitors the air pressure going in the tank gauge also has a second needle that monitors the air pressure that’s been released to the air horns I can increase or decrease the air pressure that’s going to my airhorns, depending on how loud I want my Hons to be. With the system that I put together, I can also inflate a flat tire in the matter of seconds..
I have pumped up the air pressure all the way up to 250 psi and none of my air hoses have blown apart NOT ONE ! When I go to the car show in Glendale, Arizona on Bell Road anybody that sees my system in the toolbox of my pick up truck is actually blown away with the extreme detail of how I put it together. Years ago, I was fortunate enough to work for Wellcraft marine building, offshore racing boats for scarabs I put three of them together for the Miami Vice TV show starring Don Johnson.
My air system is controlled by one switch in my pick up truck if I turn it on all 4 air compressors are activated. They will pull it up to 170 psi, and then shut off. This is my insurance policy to wake people up if they come close to hitting my truck. The horns are to protect people from hitting me call it a WAKE UP CALL for the circus clowns ❤❤
This video was AMAZING helpful, very thorough. Super!
I want to thank you for your help with wiring up the different versions of compressor wirings, I finished up my twin compressor wirings system by using the 100 amp fuse and the 80 relay system and my on board air system works great
excellent tutorial, do you have one on how to run dual compressors with relays?
I don’t have a video on it. You would just jump from one relay to the next for the compressor turn on and ground. For the power wire run either direct wires back or do some type of fused distribution.
It gets cluttered when you have all 8 wires together. That’s why an 80 amp makes things a lot cleaner
This is the video I looking for thanks!
Very very helpful, ordering the 80amp solenoid from Amazon 👍🏿
Does the solenoid replace the relay or can you run both?
Thank you great info ! Kinda hard to fallow but I'll get it !
I already have an amp in my car. Can I use the remote wire for the amp for the relay here?
Good morning! I’ve destroyed 2 solenoids. The power wire from the battery has melted the bolt housing TWICE 😢. Good ground… clueless as too what could be causing the wire to get so hot. Any thoughts?
Hi . Thank you for putting out this video! (I am also a newbie). I would like to install a VIAIR pump in a 5th wheel trailer. My rig has 2 12V batteries connected in parallel and, of course, no ignition switch. I plan to mount the pump close to my batteries and I'm entertaining the thought of connecting it directly to the batteries - of course using the fuse and Relay as indicated by the wiring diagram. Because there is no ignition circuit, I don't know how to go about connecting the on/off switch. Can you suggest a safe way to connect the switch?
Thanks!
I would do some type of on/off switch so it doesn't kill the batteries if you have a small leak. Just use the switch as a make-shift "ignition" switch
Great video. My question is can I also run my e plus level wires ECU on the same relay or do I have to to use a separate relay for that
Hi nicely explained, just wondering if I’m using an 8 awg wire for the power how do you connect it to the relay ? What size female spade connector do I need for the wire ?
Are you able to make a video of wiring up two relays with two commpressors ?
What size fuse should I use at my accessory ignition for the switch?
Universal; after watching your excellent videos I noticed on the Air Lift Performance brand, that the packaged wiring harness didn’t actually have any grounding specific wires to mount on my car’s frame. Do you think there Any concerns with this brand’s method of wiring and longevity for the compressor?
I personally want rip into the harness and adjust to your vid.
They run the ground up to the battery which will be a good spot. I personally think it’s a little light on the gauge, but it should be sufficient as it’s decent wire. Biggest thing is if your running two compressors, pickup the 2nd compressor harness.
if running 2 pumps,do I need a 12 volt battery per pump?
I went out side and my car flat to the ground I started my car and I don’t hear anything my Compressor is not making any sounds to pump up the car I bought this car with This air ride suspension so I have no idea so I need to check the ground wire because it’s making no noise right I appreciate your videos so much you’re a real help thank the Lord for you
Check for a fuse going to compressor
What size fuse do you use for the positive side of the battery?
When you say ignition is that Key on BEFORE starting or with Starting? Probably a dumb question but I just don’t know… hope to hear from ya soon… great video. Better than the instruction that came with my kit.
Exactly what I was looking for. My compressor was dipping my battery to 10 volts so I needed to upsize the wire gauge and upgrade my alternator. Classic bugs don't like modern wiring haha
If your battery voltage is dropping to 10 volts, those are excellent things to check. Also check the ground circuit on charging. (engine to chassis/chassis to battery)
@@UniversalAir I ended up keeping the sam alternator, just changed the wire gauge and good call on checking the ground, I had to sand down the contact points and it works perfectly now
You saved the day
Great video! I have my dual 444 wired up but haven't tested it yet. Anyways, don't you think the oem wires coming out from the compressors could be thicker? I think viair could go up a size or two.
Yes 8 gauge at least would be great
My brother, what amperage should I use my fuse for that same installation?
As someone who knows nothing about electricity, this is too much to take in. Is this hard to do if you buy a complete kit? I would assume it comes with everything you need.
Excellent video! Thank you!
Excellent presentation, thank you.
Excelente explicação. Muito útil!
The real work of air install isn't the struts, for sure the wiring of the electronics 😤 I'm a mechanic and am trying to get this done over the weekend, but honesty it's slightly intimidating. Thanks for the help! Going to be buying the items in link, running dual 444 Vlairs so the info helps a lot, and I have a long sedan so I do appreciate this haha. Question, would you reccommend parallel wiring a secondary battery? I realise this is even more work, but don't see the downsides? (Aside from space & work) if my modern car already has a good enough alternator?
Hey I am currently doing my install but am very intimidated with the install any guides you used to install this , I am absolutely clueless with electronics and having a very hard time wiring them.
@anthoniep483 I'd just pay a specialty shop to install in your case tbh, call for an estimate and pick one with good reviews within your budget. It's not worth messing something up and costing more, imho 😤
On the smaller ground you showed on the relay can you upgrade that ground wire to a thicker gauge and still use that to ground the relay and compressors at the same time.. thanks for your response. Great video by the way
When you refer to 8 gauge are you talking about 8 awg or b&s
Awesome content. Thank you. Subbed.
Is there a way to test if the pressure switch is bad? Because my compressor won't turn off.
I have viewed your vid countless of times lately. In my charger setup. I have 2 viair 444 on individual 40amp but ONE always goes out after a year or so. I fouhd a leak in one head and using your test on the filter. and put a new valve on the line. Would you recommend me going to the 80amp, that way wont keep blowing a fuses after a spike in usage.
I would suggest to check the voltage going into the pumps. You might not have a good enough ground connection. If its connected to the sheet metal, move it to either the battery directly, or at least the post where the battery is connected.
Awesome subscribed and notified. What State is this guy located in?
Good information
How would you wire 2 relays 1 for each compressor to one pressure switch? Just connect both sides to the pressure switch?
Just connect the output of the pressure switch to both relays for the turn on. Jump from one to the other or two wires off the same prong on the pressure switch.
Wow, thats really great information, i thought i know everything ... thank u, i have a question how or where do i get a good grounding ? thank u again
Factory ground studs are usually good, and found in different parts of the vehicle. There are usually a few under the hood. He showed briefly how to find a good ground using Ohm setting with the multimeter. You can take the multimeter probes and put one side on battery negative, and use the other probe in different areas to see if they have a good connection
Been having issues w my pressure switch not kicking off the compressors and now I know why
Its usually two scenarios. The compressors just can't hit the pressure so it never turns off (replace pumps) or it would be from welded contacts. Either inside the pressure switch which is typically caused by not running a relay and moving too much amperage, or in the relay/solenoid from pulling too much current.
If its inside your relay/solenoid I would make sure its rated for the amperage your pulling. If so, I would verify the voltage at the pumps after replacing it. If you have low voltage at the compressors, its going to pull more amperage which would cause it to stick the contacts.
Myself as well stays running, I just want to disconnect.
wow, but for a rv'er. I use my air pump briefly to level rv, and direct connect to air pump to house battery safe? all that on a manifold?
what size fuse should i use for standard 1/2 valve?
Where exactly do you put the ignition wire to ? Is the fuse box good ?
Will a 5 AMp upfitter switch work for a Ignition switch 2022 f350
Can I run The Pressure Switch Wire to the Switch Pros RCR-Force-12 Command Module? And would it be better to use the 80AMP Solenoid on a Viair 485C Dual Compressor System? Can I run The Carli Air Bags off of my own Dual Compressor with 2.5 Gallon Air Tank? Another feature I would like is to be able to control the pressure in each bag individual so I am not opposed to hard switches and dual Gauges in the dash. Guy at shop is telling me I can't. I want the dual system I am contemplating to run Front/Rear Lockers, One Air Chuck Center Front Bumber & One Center Rear Bumper Mounted Quick Female Disconnects, and Possibly one other accessory, My tank has (6) 1/4" NPT Ports and assume I will need one for air in (maybe two for dual compressors) and one on bottome for Drain/Safety Valve. What Powers/Actuates the Bags? I am running a Switch-Pros RCR-Force-12 Power System On board as well if that helps.
This is how i have my system wired with the solenoid and when I turn my battery on my compressors go on with nothing else on. Meaning ignition is off so the ecu is not on. Even if I turn ignition on the compressors still run and the ecu turns on. Do you think it is a bad solenoid? I have a 2nd solenoid and it did the same thing. I am going to test ground and the solenoid. I am running accuair.
What do you mean by ignition when talking about the pressure switch. Can it be any 12v power. Like could I just splice into my power wire from my wire that goes into my amp
I would suggest away from tapping into the stereo system. It will tend to induce noise when the solenoid/relay is turned on/off. My go-to source for an ignition is the 12 volt power plug, aka Cig lighter. Typically they will be an ignition source (switched)
What if you have a pressure switch with a built-in relay
But you need to run a ground to the 80 amp relay or you won't have power to the relay at all, right? Cause my relay won't give power unless I connect a ground to one of the little posts
Also have 2 444c compressors, wired it up originally and one compressor wire got too hot, yet the other one is perfectly fine.. disconnected the hot wired one and now I get no power through the relay
If you're running an 80 amp solenoid to 2 compressors is it okay to use the 8 gauge wire if you're going less than 20 ft?
I have my relay wired up exactly as you say, and have 14.3v at the power wire coming in, but nothing will show power...
Many thanks
I have the dual 485 with a 100 amp alternator> am I going to have problems? 10:58
assuming your not running a huge stereo system it shouldn't be a problem. Best thing is to just check your voltage at the compressors with them running.
What size fuse for the pressure switch?
this might be silly but would it be possible to run the wire going up to the ignition off the pressure switch to an 12v on/off wire that turns on/off my subwoofer amp? it'd make this install the tiniest bit easier since everything would be in my trunk
wouldn't suggest it since the relay/solenoid turning on/off can induce noise in your stereo.
What do you think abut a tank drain? Also water traps, can that be installed in any air system? How do you feel about safety pressure relief valves on tanks?
I would recommend to drain the tank. Of course, the more humid your environment is, the more often it needs to be done.
Water traps can be installed, however they won't collect all the water between the tank and the compressor since the air is hot. We recommend to put them between the tank and valves to prevent debris from going into the valves.
Safety relief valves are fine, we typically don't run them since the tank's, fittings, line etc is rated for a lot higher pressure then the compressors can physically make. If your running compressed gas with a nitrogen, helium or especially CO2, then i would HIGHLY recommend it incase of a regular failure, or the natural pressure raise of CO2.
Awesome video🤙 if you run 2 compressors do I need 2 pressure switches Thanks
Just one is needed. My advice is go with the solenoid instead of multiple relay, makes for easier cleaner install
if the ground is not good will the power from the lil post not go over to comp side or no siginal
If your ground isn't good, you will have a voltage drop, which will damage the electronics if it get too low.
Where did you find spade connectors in a size 8 awg
Im still confused about the power wire guage.. do we need separate fuse holders if we're running an amplifier? From the battery to the trunk should there be separate power wires with separate fuses for compressor and amplifier? Also im running single pump what gauge wire do i need if my cars 22ft (classic car) and what size fuse?
Yes you would want to fuse the compressors separately. Depending on which compressor your running (they have different amp draws), wire type (aluminum vs copper), quality of wire etc would all effect the "proper" size.
Personally I would run an 8 awg wire.
Great video but why no instructions on the last part of the wiring to the rocker switch up down. Thats where im lost
very interesting! how can we connect this to arduino uno or esp32 board ?
If you want to control it via an arduino, you will need to use a transistor to get a 12 volt output to trigger the relay/solenoid.
Can I just leave the compressor under the hood ? Close to the battery
Sure
Quick Question i need help long story short i have the accuair e-level with the VU4 manifold running 2 VYAIR 444C. wasn't happy with the previous install. I took the complete system out and watch this video i decided to reinstall using the 80amp solenoid my accuair wire harness has the ignition wire plugged into it so am lost in how i wire the ignition wire also my pressure switch is not on the tank its separate for it am lost here any help would be appreciated thank you.
I have my ignition wire on a toggle for my old Eldorado. That way i can start the car 1st. Then ill let my tank fill up
your accuair system has the yellow "Turn on" output from the ECU. The ECU controls the tank pressure, so you don't use a stand-a-lone pressure switch.
Sir please tell me: my relay is melting whats the reason wiring or anything else
Is using a jumper cables(4-6ga) physically bolted to the battery posts safe enough to run a Napa dual pump air compressor(90A) about 15-20ft away? Fused, of course.
Sorry for the delay. 90 amps, 20 feet away is a big ask. If that's the running current, I would absolutely not run that. Startup current is substantially higher. Online calculator says for 90 amps you should be running 1 awg for copper and 2/0 for aluminum for a 5% voltage drop.
If its been hooked up that way, use the multimeter to measure how much voltage you have at the compressors while they are running. I would suspect that wire will be getting hot, or their amperage rating might be inflated.
Awesome video man thanks a lot 👍🏽
how i connect 2 compressors?
I blew 2 relays already everything turns on at frist but when the tank or the pressure switch hits 170 psi the relay just fails could it be ground issue? Or can it be that I have the signal wire connected to the relay and I just taped into that wire and put the pressure switch? I used relay and solenoid so I’m kinda stuck
I agreed thicker wires, cooler system
hm, so for the high amp solenoid, both ground cables should be routed direclty back to the battery's ground?
my airbags go down on my driver front bag what can i do to fix it
Will these compressors work with lithium battery 80ah bank yinlong and 270 amp H.O. alternator that charges at 15.5 volts ? That's my current electrical with my audio system in my vehicle. The car and everything else seems to work okay with it .
The compressors tend to work more efficient at the higher voltages. That much over a normal 14.4 I would run it. They will run faster, so there is a potential for a little more wear on them. But personally I think it would be offset by the less heat. When you run a compressor at lower voltage, they tend to get significantly hotter then with proper voltage.
What voltage should we be around? I did a big 3 upgrade and it did drop my voltage from 14.1 to 12.1 is this good?
What voltage are you seeing at the battery and at the pumps while they are running? A 2 volt drop is a lot, however if your at idle and your alternator isn't putting out much power, you might not that the full drop.
The relay attached to my air bagged is broken, and the shape is the same. If the relay in the video is 500a/12v/4pin?
I’m setting up an onboard air system on my ‘22 Power Wagon. It is mounted where my spare tired used to be. I’m running dual Viair 485C compressors, Viair website states the combined max amp draw is 46 amps. Would I be ok to run 8 awg wire a distance of about 12’-15’ the distance from the battery back to the spare tire area? Thanks!
That is the rated running current but startup is always higher. If your talking per pump that's fine, but for the pair I would recommend to run larger.
Are you using an 80amp or 100amp fuse for the PAC 80amp single relay? In the video, you are using a 100amp, but is the correct size to use for dual 444c? I assume the 100 amp is being used because of voltage spikes.
Either fuse would be fine, its suppose to protect the wire. I would suggest to run a larger capacity for the spikes during startup.