Do the airline sizes have to match all around? I find way more manifolds with 1/4”ports but all the airride kits come 3/8 or 1/2”. Thanx for the video.
We normally run 3/8” line with manifolds. The port size is measured in NPT, not diameter- so a 1/4” port actually matches the inside diameter of 3/8” line well. There’s no reason you couldn’t go with smaller line if you wanted to slow the system down a bit or make routing your lines easier, but going to 1/2” lines wouldn’t benefit you because the valve wouldn’t have the extra flow to speed things up. I hope all of that makes sense! Give me a holler if you still have any questions!
It does make sense. Thank you and in watching a couple of videos last night and not knowing much about air ride I thought manifold was in addition to the valves. Lol I didn’t know it was either or.
@@twistedimages405man I'm thinking about switching to 3/8 airline ... the guy that sold me the air ride kit didn't tell me it was a waste running 1/2 airline with the chad criss manifold... would I not lose any speed ?
Rebuilding someone else's project, any ideas why I would have 3 450psi valves on each front corner? Guessing maybe nitrogen set up at one point because there are two tanks in the trunk and a large empty tank mount right near a quick connect in the airlines. no way to find out from OG owner what is was on. Everything is 1/2"
@@twistedimages405 Yes, two for lift and one for drop on each front. There is no pressure switch on the system and half of the wiring is disconnected so I'm looking at rewiring the entire setup. The tanks in the rear are only rated for 150 psi each tho so I am assuming those will need to be replaced as well.
@@iambenwillett most air tanks are only rated up to 150 because that was the DOT spec for certification on big rigs. If they’re in good condition 200psi isn’t going to be a problem, but if they’re steel and/or you’re unsure of their age I’d definitely replace them. What vehicle is all of this on?
Direct-acting manifold valve setups will always be slower than individual diaphragm- style systems- the internal passages are way smaller so the air can’t travel as quickly through them. For a fast setup I’d recommend 8 of these valves: www.twistedimages.com/12-Air-Valve_p_337.html Let me know if you have any questions! -Phil
I didn't include Air Lift's 3P/3H manifold in this video because their setup contains the circuitry for their height control system and can only be used with their handheld controller. It's a great setup overall, but was a little beyond the scope of the rest of these valves. Give me a holler if you have any questions about their packages- we're an Air Lift Performance dealer and I love installing their stuff.
My evolve manifold gave me problems this past summer and still haven't figured it out. Tried 3 different switch boxes with same results. Front up, all corners up, rear up most of the time wouldn't work, but if I hit the 2 individual fronts up at the same time, worked every time. Still haven't figured out why. It looks so dam clean though. Great video though 👌
What switch box have you been using? I’ve experienced voltage drop with the AVS 7 switch box when actuating the center switches (front, rear, or all up/down) before, even on my Brookwood with individual valves. Typically in key-off or low idle situations so I’m thinking it’s voltage related. Let me know your thoughts!
@@twistedimages405 that's what I'm thinking, I have solid grounds, but it's a Honda and there not known for having the best grounds. And I used the switch box that came in the kit, airmaxxx. So I thought it was that so I switched to 2 different avs, a used then a new with the same results. When I hook it back up I'm going to do a big 3 upgrade on the grounds and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks for the the reply 🙏
@@twistedimages405 I'm experiencing that with my AVS7 billet controller ! only when the car is off or sometimes when my compressors are running and voltage is low . very annoying
@@PeachCoastLowrider I haven’t investigated it any further, but if the car is off I’ll usually hit the two outer switches to lift the front or rear. Planning on changing to a switch panel under the dash at some point so it hasn’t been a big deal, but I also don’t drive this one daily
Definitely! If your system is currently running 3/8” air line and the valves are mounted in the trunk/under the bed, swapping to a manifold would be pretty simple. If you have larger lines, or the valves are mounted at the corners of your vehicle, you might have to grab a roll of line and some fittings to re-plumb part of the system. Feel free to reach out to me through our website if you have any questions and I’ll be happy to help!
Most ECUs will work with any manifold you choose. The Air Lift 3P is an exception- it has the ECU built into the manifold so you have to change them as a set. If you have any questions just send a message my way!
Why is adding complexity something desired in a system which reliability and simplicity is needed? What's wrong with something like the Aire Jax 4 Play?
Manual valves definitely have their place, but a lot of people prefer an electric manifold so air lines don’t have to come inside the cabin. Also, we like to run our systems at 200psi, and the 4 play is limited to 180 maximum. And finally, with a manual valve setup you don’t have the option to run height or pressure sensors for automatic leveling- many people like having presets for their ride height for the convenience.
What's up with the cheaper VU4 manifolds I see on Amazon and eBay? Why should I spend over $400 on a brand name when I can get one for cheaper? Have they actually done anything?
I’ve installed one of those- can’t remember exactly which brand, but I imagine they’re all built in similar factories. The valve seemed to function fine once we cleaned up the ports with a NPT tap- the taper was incorrect on them so fittings weren’t sealing. I can’t speak for longevity, as the car didn’t stay around after installation. But I usually try to stick with name-brand parts for the consistent quality, reliability, and after-sale support. You MIGHT get lucky and have a no-name valve/compressor/bag work properly for years, or it might fail in a week and leave you stuck somewhere on the side of the road. In my experience failures are far less common with name-brand parts, and the cost difference isn’t enough to justify taking a chance.
quick question for you i just installed air ride in my car when i drain the tank everytime my car is all the way up it drops down when im draining my tank is that normal??
Most valves need tank pressure to stay closed, so losing that tank pressure will make the car drop. Some people install check valves between the tank and the lift valves to prevent that from happening, but as long as you have the vehicle supported on jack stands when you’re draining the tank it’s usually not a big deal.
Air Lift doesn’t offer a simple valve manifold- closest thing would be the 3S, but even that one involves different wiring and controllers and costs significantly more. I’ll make another video at some point covering all of the “smart” control systems soon and we’ll discuss the 3S then!
The AVS brass diaphragm style valves have a single function, so you’d need two per corner (one to lift, one to drop). If you’re asking about the AVS manifold valve, that has 8 functions built into one block, so it can lift and drop each corner of your vehicle independently. The stage 1 kit uses manual valves, so you’d have to replace the control panel completely with electric switches to actuate the new valves. Holler at me if you have any questions!
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions on the triangulated 4 link on my 82 swb squarebody dually project
Love the description and 360 view if them all. Definitely helped, thx. However, Kinda wish you'd given a "pros/cons" of them all.
@@victorcano4997 good point! I’ll try to make a follow-up soon to cover that better.
I am new to air ride im looking for a manifold that lifts decently fast
for the avs electric air valve do we need to buy two and does it work with stage 1 air ride
Do the airline sizes have to match all around? I find way more manifolds with 1/4”ports but all the airride kits come 3/8 or 1/2”. Thanx for the video.
We normally run 3/8” line with manifolds. The port size is measured in NPT, not diameter- so a 1/4” port actually matches the inside diameter of 3/8” line well. There’s no reason you couldn’t go with smaller line if you wanted to slow the system down a bit or make routing your lines easier, but going to 1/2” lines wouldn’t benefit you because the valve wouldn’t have the extra flow to speed things up.
I hope all of that makes sense! Give me a holler if you still have any questions!
It does make sense. Thank you and in watching a couple of videos last night and not knowing much about air ride I thought manifold was in addition to the valves. Lol I didn’t know it was either or.
@@ManChildMaineiac I’m glad you’re doing a bunch of research BEFORE spending your money- a lot of people don’t do that haha
@@twistedimages405man I'm thinking about switching to 3/8 airline ... the guy that sold me the air ride kit didn't tell me it was a waste running 1/2 airline with the chad criss manifold... would I not lose any speed ?
I’m doing air suspension on my supra any advice
Rebuilding someone else's project, any ideas why I would have 3 450psi valves on each front corner? Guessing maybe nitrogen set up at one point because there are two tanks in the trunk and a large empty tank mount right near a quick connect in the airlines. no way to find out from OG owner what is was on. Everything is 1/2"
Yeah, sounds like someone wanted to play! Is that two valves for lift and one for drop on each corner?
@@twistedimages405 Yes, two for lift and one for drop on each front. There is no pressure switch on the system and half of the wiring is disconnected so I'm looking at rewiring the entire setup. The tanks in the rear are only rated for 150 psi each tho so I am assuming those will need to be replaced as well.
@@iambenwillett most air tanks are only rated up to 150 because that was the DOT spec for certification on big rigs. If they’re in good condition 200psi isn’t going to be a problem, but if they’re steel and/or you’re unsure of their age I’d definitely replace them. What vehicle is all of this on?
Where would you get the ones that have speed
Direct-acting manifold valve setups will always be slower than individual diaphragm- style systems- the internal passages are way smaller so the air can’t travel as quickly through them.
For a fast setup I’d recommend 8 of these valves: www.twistedimages.com/12-Air-Valve_p_337.html
Let me know if you have any questions! -Phil
What about the Air lift stuff? I see people running there manifold setups on cars and trucks
I didn't include Air Lift's 3P/3H manifold in this video because their setup contains the circuitry for their height control system and can only be used with their handheld controller. It's a great setup overall, but was a little beyond the scope of the rest of these valves. Give me a holler if you have any questions about their packages- we're an Air Lift Performance dealer and I love installing their stuff.
nice .I have tbe same motor . magnaflow ?
My evolve manifold gave me problems this past summer and still haven't figured it out. Tried 3 different switch boxes with same results. Front up, all corners up, rear up most of the time wouldn't work, but if I hit the 2 individual fronts up at the same time, worked every time. Still haven't figured out why. It looks so dam clean though. Great video though 👌
What switch box have you been using? I’ve experienced voltage drop with the AVS 7 switch box when actuating the center switches (front, rear, or all up/down) before, even on my Brookwood with individual valves. Typically in key-off or low idle situations so I’m thinking it’s voltage related. Let me know your thoughts!
@@twistedimages405 that's what I'm thinking, I have solid grounds, but it's a Honda and there not known for having the best grounds. And I used the switch box that came in the kit, airmaxxx. So I thought it was that so I switched to 2 different avs, a used then a new with the same results. When I hook it back up I'm going to do a big 3 upgrade on the grounds and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks for the the reply 🙏
@@twistedimages405 I'm experiencing that with my AVS7 billet controller ! only when the car is off or sometimes when my compressors are running and voltage is low . very annoying
@@twistedimages405 have you found a way around this ? I've done the big 3 upgrade .
@@PeachCoastLowrider I haven’t investigated it any further, but if the car is off I’ll usually hit the two outer switches to lift the front or rear. Planning on changing to a switch panel under the dash at some point so it hasn’t been a big deal, but I also don’t drive this one daily
loving my Chad Criss
Can someone swap out faster valves for avs, slam, or accu air,.?
Definitely! If your system is currently running 3/8” air line and the valves are mounted in the trunk/under the bed, swapping to a manifold would be pretty simple. If you have larger lines, or the valves are mounted at the corners of your vehicle, you might have to grab a roll of line and some fittings to re-plumb part of the system. Feel free to reach out to me through our website if you have any questions and I’ll be happy to help!
@@twistedimages405 thank you for that
can i change the manifold by using another brand ecu?
Most ECUs will work with any manifold you choose. The Air Lift 3P is an exception- it has the ECU built into the manifold so you have to change them as a set. If you have any questions just send a message my way!
now i am using single outlet and inlet,is it work after change VU4 4-path?
@@永昇-k8u the VU4 has two inlets and outlets, but you can plug one of the inlets off and run just one to it.
@@twistedimages405 alright , thanks a lot
😁
Why is adding complexity something desired in a system which reliability and simplicity is needed? What's wrong with something like the Aire Jax 4 Play?
Manual valves definitely have their place, but a lot of people prefer an electric manifold so air lines don’t have to come inside the cabin. Also, we like to run our systems at 200psi, and the 4 play is limited to 180 maximum. And finally, with a manual valve setup you don’t have the option to run height or pressure sensors for automatic leveling- many people like having presets for their ride height for the convenience.
Understood. This is going to be my first setup. Trying to absorb as much info before spending.
What's up with the cheaper VU4 manifolds I see on Amazon and eBay? Why should I spend over $400 on a brand name when I can get one for cheaper? Have they actually done anything?
I’ve installed one of those- can’t remember exactly which brand, but I imagine they’re all built in similar factories. The valve seemed to function fine once we cleaned up the ports with a NPT tap- the taper was incorrect on them so fittings weren’t sealing. I can’t speak for longevity, as the car didn’t stay around after installation.
But I usually try to stick with name-brand parts for the consistent quality, reliability, and after-sale support. You MIGHT get lucky and have a no-name valve/compressor/bag work properly for years, or it might fail in a week and leave you stuck somewhere on the side of the road. In my experience failures are far less common with name-brand parts, and the cost difference isn’t enough to justify taking a chance.
quick question for you i just installed air ride in my car when i drain the tank everytime my car is all the way up it drops down when im draining my tank is that normal??
Most valves need tank pressure to stay closed, so losing that tank pressure will make the car drop. Some people install check valves between the tank and the lift valves to prevent that from happening, but as long as you have the vehicle supported on jack stands when you’re draining the tank it’s usually not a big deal.
@@twistedimages405 ok thanks
Who the hell is Chad Chris?
Just a guy that builds some cool stuff!
No airlift 🤣🤣🤣
Air Lift doesn’t offer a simple valve manifold- closest thing would be the 3S, but even that one involves different wiring and controllers and costs significantly more. I’ll make another video at some point covering all of the “smart” control systems soon and we’ll discuss the 3S then!
@@twistedimages405 I actually want to swap back over to accuair just gotta save up lol
8 valves not 4
for the avs electric air valve do we need to buy two and does it work with stage 1 air ride
The AVS brass diaphragm style valves have a single function, so you’d need two per corner (one to lift, one to drop). If you’re asking about the AVS manifold valve, that has 8 functions built into one block, so it can lift and drop each corner of your vehicle independently.
The stage 1 kit uses manual valves, so you’d have to replace the control panel completely with electric switches to actuate the new valves. Holler at me if you have any questions!