Guys, this video is in English. UA-cam is dubbing my video into German, French, and Spanish without me knowing... I hate it and I am disabling this auto-dub feature now.
men, iam the first time here, and a love your video. you give it an exelent vipe. so yes pls turn off the automatik translation from youtube. it is bullshit. greetings from germany
Since you bought so many YLOD PS3s, I think you should upgrade your BGA rework station. Very exciting video, I hope you can successfully build Frankenstein in the next episode.😁
Better equipment would definitely improve the success rate, but for now I’m sticking with a budget setup since many people wonder if it’s possible to Frankie with cheaper tools. Hopefully, my video helps others decide what tools to buy. It’s better to have just me wasting money than everybody wasting their money!
Ayy my good man your dedication to the ps3 console is second to none my friend keep up your amazing work and videos many thanks for your time and effort from vini
Second to none is strong, this guy and felix are doing the same work, maybe together, maybe seperately, at best they are on par and level with each other
Felix is way smarter and more skilled than I am. I’m simply following in his footsteps. A couple years ago, he figured out how to do the Frankenstein mod using a budget setup. I’m just trying to replicate his work and vlog the process. If you’re interested, Felix also wrote a blog about his journey. You can check it out here: www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233
@@hardwarerepair200 that maybe so my friend but your dedication to do this is second to none and to document it aswell just amazing many thanks for posting your progress
This is the type of content I love to see and even more so after fighted with so much misinformed people in PS3 Facebook groups and tried to correct them about the YLOD keep doing your hard work, for me your channel along with the one of RIP-Felix are the best and most educational ones about fixing PS3s! RIP-Felix is like a Scientist who explains everything, and you are The One who shows how everything can be put in practice by a normal person to fix his console and learn the process
Actually, Felix put it in practice himself too, and he wrote a blog of it www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233 I am inspired by him and wanna do the same and do a vlog instead.
Keep trying buddy, don't give up! Thank you for these videos, they are inspiring and educational since i'm somewhat amateur repairman like yourself, i make mistakes also. You do need better tools however, especially rework station. I have been selling jailbroken ps3's and did console service, and every cent i have earned i invested in tools, even bought myself Honton R490 rework station. It was expensive i won't lie and headache to get it here in my country (almost no one is doing reballing here) so i'm one of the few to have it. I'm learning every day how to improve those temperature profiles and believe me, this thing is awesome, makes job so much easier. Again, keep up the good work and those videos coming, wish you all the best.
i give up so early fr, i have 7 fat, 1 slim, 2 super slim all of them have 1024 or 3034, I don't have preheater so i can't try to remove or replace the rsx but i did try to reball it and it ended tragically all the time my closest success try was with replacing capacitors but in my country we don't even have tantalum with low esr and importing from outside is truly nightmare so i just ribbed them from super slim one and all the hell goes right but the console was over heating with no reason so i tried to remove ihs to replace the thermal paste but guess what while i was pressing on it my hands slipped and blown smd capacitor from the board, the white one when i tried to put it back the pads just decided to rib them self off and that's was it i have broken 10 ps3 now! but keep going bro maybe u will master it in the end
It wasn't until 2022 that people started to understand how to fix YLOD properly. It's so sad that many of us trashed our PS3s too early, thinking they were unfixable.
I haven't seen any of your video's before, but, to the guy that was critical of your English, he can shove it, I watched this whole video on 2x speed and understood 95% of what you said, that's pretty damn good for an ESL speaker
I do appreciate people who post constructive comments to help me improve. It’s totally fine to correct my pronunciation, as I’m willing to get better at English!
Couple of tips, You got way too much flux on the chip, you are suppose to have a very thin layer. That layer of flux is only to help the solder balls to stick on the pad. Either make the layer a lot thinner, I mean a lot thinner with your glove and your smooth glove not your spiky glove or get hot air at maybe 250 to heat the flux so its smooth but not activated and not hard or combine the both, which then would allow you to fully coat the entire chip in flux once the solder balls are stuck to the pad. What can also help you is buying a phone repair mat like the Mechanic CPB14 or CPB 320. These reach at 120c and would allow the chip to be preheated and have make it far easier when putting top heat. Also please remove the chip from the stencil jig as that absorbs a lot of heat. Second, you are heating the chip way too fast when removing and soldering. With my Hot air bga station, there are steps such as go to 220c then stay for 45 seconds, go to 245c stay for 40 seconds then 280c for 120 seconds, the longer duration is only to allow me have the extra time if i need it since its a profile type bga station and i cannot edit it once i start it, chip will usually remove after 280c at 40 seconds. For your hot air gun, try to have similar steps with interviles to allow everything to evenly heat and soak in the heat, you shouldn't apply max heat all at once and try to remove it as fast as possible with the highest heat possible. And if its possible, try to preheat your board higher. You want more even heat rather than board being 170c preheated and then blasting 450c right at the middle, thats when problems occur and do not worry about putting the IHS heat sink onto the chip when soldering as that absorbs a lot of heat and you do not need any sort of weight to help the chip solder, the chip with solder with the perfect amount of flux and heat. Lastly, I keep my hot air nozzle very very close to the chip, Maybe around 2-5mm. Hope these tips can help
@@hardwarerepair200 Hopefully you can try those tips and would help you for your successful repair. Also ram bleed is a very bad thing since what happens when the solder is heating up, the solder will vibrate but with underfilled chips, since the solder doesnt have any space to vibrate they would leak out of the ram. This is due to the temperature being too high, you shouldnt try to remove the chip as fast as possible with the top heater. This is not a small chip where you can apply heat as much as possible and it will be removed and fine because the RSX and other big chips require way too much heat, so they need to be done in steps. These advice which i use personally are so good that I do not even need to prebake the board at 100c for 24 hours or prebake it at all because i never had delamination issue with the way I do it.
you can do it, i have 6 years of experience with consoles and i never took off a processor and look at you you almost got it, its just matter of keep trying
You're doing a fantastic job! Just a quick off-topic question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
On the point of pre baking, my experience so far is, you can get away with preheating the board for an hour at 100c, then increase slowly by 20c increments before adding the top heater for extraction. This works for me without ram bleeding. Overall removing the ihs is a better process to do than leaving it on.
As ur starting to finally work out the budget set up is ur problem, especially with that top heater (hot air wand) not being up to par. You keep spending money and persisting but like many others warned it would be best to just buy a proper BGA machine and learn from that and u will get better success. I get this is all a learning process and we all need to go through it but sometimes u do need to listen to others that have gone through it already, much like myself, so u get a better head start into the reballing field on the PS3's. Once u have better equipment u will make that money back so always remember the equipment u use is always an investment so spending more at the beginning is never a bad thing.
Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already so many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) on UA-cam doing it. What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current tools. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?
Delamination is the enemy in the whole process. Your preheater needs to be very powerful and controllable.There is a fine line amount of time you can keep heating these boards, also their age is against them now. Thanks for sharing your journey, it will make people think twice about wasting time and money on crap flux, solder and tools.
I enjoy doing DIY soldering mods and repairs to old consoles, but these frankenstein mods etc involving reballing, preheating is way beyond my capabilities. So I personally don't give a F about PS2 backwards compatibility on PS3 and just use a PS2.. anyway you've came this far investing so much time and money so I hope you reach a point of success that satisfies you.
Thank you for watching! That’s exactly the point of this series. I just want to document my journey, whether it's a success or failure. I let viewers to decide if they want to try it and what to expect if they do.
My stencil is able to be heated no problem. If you have a good stencil, it doesn’t do that. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this without leaving the stencil on after having done it in both ways I would never go back to doing it with taking the stencil off. It actually takes less than a quarter of the time to get it done when you leave the stencil on. So for the future, I would recommend getting a better stencil one that is already hardened so that it can be put in high temperature situations. you may want to use the solder glue instead of using regular heat applied solder with all the boards delaminating. either that or insulate the area around the gpu slot, but the glue would probably be alot easier for you
Woah. This video got served to me with a machine translated german voice track. It sounded like some spam. First time I have come across this feature, could you enable that yourself? I'd hate for my own videos to be re-dubbed by youtube...
That stencil is not a direct heat stencil. The advice you received in the UA-cam comments was wrong. You did it correctly previously where you add a thin layer of flux, the stencil, the balls, then lift off the stencil carefully. You can also use a heat plate to get the balls to melt, rather than hot air. The advantage there is they won't blow away :) Also add a little less flux, you only need a VERY thin layer, enough to get the balls to stick and stay in place.
No GPU is bad! I have no idea why you or other parties “think” that GPU’s are bad! Experience will tell you that. Good equipment will show you that. 🤷🏻♂️ 90/65/40nm RSX’s are all good. Stop reading into crap on the internet that has no substance. Blows me away the sheep followers lmao 🥴
Welcome to hell, I'm currently working through the same process of doing the frankenstein mod for the first time. So much hardware has already been killed. You're very close, and I believe you're capable of getting there. Also amtech is stirri. They changed the name after some legal trouble. Stirri flux is the real deal.
Amtech still exist. The so called Legal wrangle, which some named fluxgate. Stirri is rebrand and from my understanding is the breakaway partners who could not legally use the brand Amtech.
@@hardwarerepair200 I got a deal on a second hand LY IR8500. It's very similar to the ACHI IR PRO SC, but has some stupid design decisions like glass in front of the top heater. It cost me 400 dollars and came with some other equipment too so I got a very good deal on it. And it works great after I removed the glass on the bottom heater. As far as I'm aware, here's the debacle with amtech flux: Amtech manufacturing designs the flux and partners with inventec to produce it under the Amtech name. Inventec mislabeled some of the flux or produced it wrong (I'm unsure), which resulted in the ending of the original partnership, but inventec can still use the Amtech name on the flux. Amtech manufacturing continues to either manufacturer in house or partner with some other company to sell the flux, now rebranded as Stirri.
Thank you for the video, don't pay attention to the negative comments. We are all learning every day and no one knows everything. Hope you get there soon, best of luck
Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already too many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) doing it already. What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current budget setup. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?
I had 3 bad PS3s back in the days, one of them 20GB backwards compatible , all of them failed and I tossed them in the bin. I wish I kept them, looks like some of them could have be fixed.
What evidence are you looking for exactly? The only evidence we have is anecdotal. I never bake and rarely get delam. Whenever I do, it's always an 868-22 board. If you look at someone like computer booter who's done over 200 Frankys. All of his delam boards are 868-22. I personally believe baking is useless. If a board is going to delam, then there's nothing you can do to stop it.
@Johnny_LuvBuckets So it's just more likely than the other revisions then. Prebaking is industry standard practice even for new PCBs before any components are installed.
@@jm036 I'm familiar with the IPC standards. I get it, heat evaporates the moisture. It's not a hard concept to grasp. I'm reiterating this again, my evidence is anecdotal. I never bake and I never get delam. I use an LY R690V.3 hot air rework station. When I had my ACHI IR pro I would get delam more frequently. Again this is another theory that I can't prove. But I feel like hot air stations are more forgiving when it comes to delam. There are plenty of people (squeept, Sampsonay, Shawn) that use the IR pro and have success. So it's also possible it was a skill issue on my part.
your hot air rework station its garbage, just get a better rework station that has the air pump inside of the rework station and blows more air than the fan inside of the soldering air tool thing
You need to STOP using that hot air gun with FAN IN HANDLE, its too slow to heat up, just watch youtube comparison of nozzle vs pump. The ones with blower in the handle IS BAD. Clones are fine. Its easy to identify as the handle will be slim (no fan). It uses a compressor pump inside the station that pushes hot air. 1000% the reason you're failing.
I know of a place that has 40nm chips preballed, would this have made things easier? As all you would have to do is line up the chip heat it up for the balls to melt and then give it a gentle nudge to seat it properly? In the new year I’m looking to have 2 launch ps3 60gb brought back to life if my ancestors see it worthy…or damn them to hell 😋 This was painful, I hope you get this done one day.
Having a 40nm chip preballed definitely save you a lot of trouble. I haven't tried it yet, but my friend who bought preballed RSXs off aliexpress got some really bad experience. Most of them doesn't work at all.
you can try removing one of the springing on the mike stand and tightening the screws, also you want to make sure the tin foil isn't being lifted by the hot air make sure it is stuck down really good so no hot air goes under it.
Epic video 😢 so many dead ps 3, but Frankenstein mod is amazing 😅 sanks i see evry vide, go egen man. By new termopro station with termoprofile and play game😂
You! Are! Amazing! So much work, so much dedication, that’s fenominal if this is correct 😂 (German dude). Every Video from you is very enjoyable and every time i hope that’s the console! 😮 You got this! 💪🏻💪🏻❤️
@ ❤️ it‘s also very impressive, I’ve tried only once to desolder an RSX, pocorning and that‘s it for me with PS3 💪🏻😂 and I’ve got myself an IR6500 BGA station. For Xbox classic CPU upgrades it works perfect 🤓 Oh i‘ve got the german dub, but hell no that‘s bad 😂 english content is like 80% of my youtube consumtion 🤓
Oh, maybe it is a UA-cam auto-translate thing. I hate it, coz I often got recommended videos with English titles, but when I click inside, it's another language.
You can prevent this entirely by delidding a low-hours PS3. Can't YLOD if it doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder. What's funny is this is nearly the same failure as the RROD.
@@OriginalityDaniel but you can make it by yourself, 10 years ago i seen video from guy in kiev, it's maked DIY rework station, and founded somewhere software where u can make profile and control your station. You have table, now you need IR head and holder for it
Esa estacion de calor no sirve para ese tamaño de gpu, necesitas algo como infrarojo, yo me canse de intentar y solo quema las pcb el aire caliente no es lo ideal, es mejor la infraroja
Guys, this video is in English.
UA-cam is dubbing my video into German, French, and Spanish without me knowing...
I hate it and I am disabling this auto-dub feature now.
Noooooo!
El video es bueno ya que se puede ver en español para los seguidores latinos
i thought you meant "guys this video is in english" because people were commenting about your accent lol
@@SuperM789 This time people are asking if I’m French 😂. I couldn’t figure out why-then I realized UA-cam dubbed my video in French!
men, iam the first time here, and a love your video. you give it an exelent vipe. so yes pls turn off the automatik translation from youtube. it is bullshit. greetings from germany
Failure is just a lesson for success. Keep going at it man. It’s not difficult once you get the hang of it.
I will keep trying my best.
Since you bought so many YLOD PS3s, I think you should upgrade your BGA rework station. Very exciting video, I hope you can successfully build Frankenstein in the next episode.😁
Better equipment would definitely improve the success rate, but for now I’m sticking with a budget setup since many people wonder if it’s possible to Frankie with cheaper tools.
Hopefully, my video helps others decide what tools to buy. It’s better to have just me wasting money than everybody wasting their money!
Ayy my good man your dedication to the ps3 console is second to none my friend keep up your amazing work and videos many thanks for your time and effort from vini
Second to none is strong, this guy and felix are doing the same work, maybe together, maybe seperately, at best they are on par and level with each other
Felix is way smarter and more skilled than I am. I’m simply following in his footsteps. A couple years ago, he figured out how to do the Frankenstein mod using a budget setup. I’m just trying to replicate his work and vlog the process.
If you’re interested, Felix also wrote a blog about his journey. You can check it out here:
www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233
@@hardwarerepair200 that maybe so my friend but your dedication to do this is second to none and to document it aswell just amazing many thanks for posting your progress
I'm starting my journey of amateur soldering. Watching your video made me feel like I'm not alone in this. You got this, my man.
This is the type of content I love to see and even more so after fighted with so much misinformed people in PS3 Facebook groups and tried to correct them about the YLOD
keep doing your hard work, for me your channel along with the one of RIP-Felix are the best and most educational ones about fixing PS3s!
RIP-Felix is like a Scientist who explains everything, and you are The One who shows how everything can be put in practice by a normal person to fix his console and learn the process
Actually, Felix put it in practice himself too, and he wrote a blog of it
www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-156#post-270233
I am inspired by him and wanna do the same and do a vlog instead.
Keep trying buddy, don't give up! Thank you for these videos, they are inspiring and educational since i'm somewhat amateur repairman like yourself, i make mistakes also. You do need better tools however, especially rework station. I have been selling jailbroken ps3's and did console service, and every cent i have earned i invested in tools, even bought myself Honton R490 rework station. It was expensive i won't lie and headache to get it here in my country (almost no one is doing reballing here) so i'm one of the few to have it. I'm learning every day how to improve those temperature profiles and believe me, this thing is awesome, makes job so much easier. Again, keep up the good work and those videos coming, wish you all the best.
My god props to you mad lads for going these lengths, reballing is not something i wanna do but i respect the ambition 😄
i give up so early fr, i have 7 fat, 1 slim, 2 super slim
all of them have 1024 or 3034, I don't have preheater so i can't try to remove or replace the rsx but i did try to reball it and it ended tragically all the time
my closest success try was with replacing capacitors but in my country we don't even have tantalum with low esr and importing from outside is truly nightmare so i just ribbed them from super slim one and all the hell goes right but the console was over heating with no reason so i tried to remove ihs to replace the thermal paste but guess what while i was pressing on it my hands slipped and blown smd capacitor from the board, the white one when i tried to put it back the pads just decided to rib them self off and that's was it
i have broken 10 ps3 now!
but keep going bro maybe u will master it in the end
It wasn't until 2022 that people started to understand how to fix YLOD properly. It's so sad that many of us trashed our PS3s too early, thinking they were unfixable.
You forgot to sacrifice a live chicken to appease the evil spirits. This is why your project failed.
😂
I haven't seen any of your video's before, but, to the guy that was critical of your English, he can shove it, I watched this whole video on 2x speed and understood 95% of what you said, that's pretty damn good for an ESL speaker
I do appreciate people who post constructive comments to help me improve. It’s totally fine to correct my pronunciation, as I’m willing to get better at English!
Couple of tips,
You got way too much flux on the chip, you are suppose to have a very thin layer. That layer of flux is only to help the solder balls to stick on the pad. Either make the layer a lot thinner, I mean a lot thinner with your glove and your smooth glove not your spiky glove or get hot air at maybe 250 to heat the flux so its smooth but not activated and not hard or combine the both, which then would allow you to fully coat the entire chip in flux once the solder balls are stuck to the pad.
What can also help you is buying a phone repair mat like the Mechanic CPB14 or CPB 320. These reach at 120c and would allow the chip to be preheated and have make it far easier when putting top heat. Also please remove the chip from the stencil jig as that absorbs a lot of heat.
Second, you are heating the chip way too fast when removing and soldering. With my Hot air bga station, there are steps such as go to 220c then stay for 45 seconds, go to 245c stay for 40 seconds then 280c for 120 seconds, the longer duration is only to allow me have the extra time if i need it since its a profile type bga station and i cannot edit it once i start it, chip will usually remove after 280c at 40 seconds.
For your hot air gun, try to have similar steps with interviles to allow everything to evenly heat and soak in the heat, you shouldn't apply max heat all at once and try to remove it as fast as possible with the highest heat possible.
And if its possible, try to preheat your board higher. You want more even heat rather than board being 170c preheated and then blasting 450c right at the middle, thats when problems occur and do not worry about putting the IHS heat sink onto the chip when soldering as that absorbs a lot of heat and you do not need any sort of weight to help the chip solder, the chip with solder with the perfect amount of flux and heat.
Lastly, I keep my hot air nozzle very very close to the chip, Maybe around 2-5mm.
Hope these tips can help
Thank you for the tips! That's why I still post videos despite it's a failure in the end. The constructive comments I get here are what keep me going.
@@hardwarerepair200 Hopefully you can try those tips and would help you for your successful repair. Also ram bleed is a very bad thing since what happens when the solder is heating up, the solder will vibrate but with underfilled chips, since the solder doesnt have any space to vibrate they would leak out of the ram.
This is due to the temperature being too high, you shouldnt try to remove the chip as fast as possible with the top heater. This is not a small chip where you can apply heat as much as possible and it will be removed and fine because the RSX and other big chips require way too much heat, so they need to be done in steps.
These advice which i use personally are so good that I do not even need to prebake the board at 100c for 24 hours or prebake it at all because i never had delamination issue with the way I do it.
Mate you're the best! Keep working on it, your determination is your key to the win🎉 Best wishes and Merry Christmas!
Thank you for watching! Merry Christmas!
Adorei a dublagem em português, continue para eu poder aprender com a suas experiências. Grande abraço!!
31:07 oh hey that's me lmao glad ripfelix had a different suggestion
this is my new favorite channel on UA-cam. I eagerly await every new video that you upload. i love the longer videos
Longer videos take more time to make. This one took me nearly 3 months in total (the initial footage was filmed back in late September)
"This new hobby has become my biggest torture"
God so true. I've never heard of a hobby that _hasn't_ become torture at some point.
We are aware that all those economically damaged PS3s are equal to a good quality heat gun.
you got this never give up good luck
you can do it, i have 6 years of experience with consoles and i never took off a processor and look at you you almost got it, its just matter of keep trying
Thank you! I will try my best
You're doing a fantastic job! Just a quick off-topic question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
Have a happy holidays Amateur Hardware Repair
33:53 left side of the GPU's PCB also popped 😥
On the point of pre baking, my experience so far is, you can get away with preheating the board for an hour at 100c, then increase slowly by 20c increments before adding the top heater for extraction. This works for me without ram bleeding. Overall removing the ihs is a better process to do than leaving it on.
There's got to be an easier way to do this without heating up the boards. Great video and love this series!
I hope someone would figure out an easy way to do it too
This is so underrated...
Thoroughly enjoyed your content and keep it up.
As ur starting to finally work out the budget set up is ur problem, especially with that top heater (hot air wand) not being up to par. You keep spending money and persisting but like many others warned it would be best to just buy a proper BGA machine and learn from that and u will get better success. I get this is all a learning process and we all need to go through it but sometimes u do need to listen to others that have gone through it already, much like myself, so u get a better head start into the reballing field on the PS3's. Once u have better equipment u will make that money back so always remember the equipment u use is always an investment so spending more at the beginning is never a bad thing.
Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already so many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) on UA-cam doing it.
What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current tools. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?
Delamination is the enemy in the whole process. Your preheater needs to be very powerful and controllable.There is a fine line amount of time you can keep heating these boards, also their age is against them now. Thanks for sharing your journey, it will make people think twice about wasting time and money on crap flux, solder and tools.
I enjoy doing DIY soldering mods and repairs to old consoles, but these frankenstein mods etc involving reballing, preheating is way beyond my capabilities. So I personally don't give a F about PS2 backwards compatibility on PS3 and just use a PS2.. anyway you've came this far investing so much time and money so I hope you reach a point of success that satisfies you.
Thank you for watching! That’s exactly the point of this series. I just want to document my journey, whether it's a success or failure. I let viewers to decide if they want to try it and what to expect if they do.
So are you japanese or chinese?🤔
My stencil is able to be heated no problem. If you have a good stencil, it doesn’t do that. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this without leaving the stencil on after having done it in both ways I would never go back to doing it with taking the stencil off. It actually takes less than a quarter of the time to get it done when you leave the stencil on. So for the future, I would recommend getting a better stencil one that is already hardened so that it can be put in high temperature situations. you may want to use the solder glue instead of using regular heat applied solder with all the boards delaminating. either that or insulate the area around the gpu slot, but the glue would probably be alot easier for you
I admire your work a lot, please tell me where to download this gerber files from. I have a difficult to find correct one.
Here you go!
644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/e746e023a6b64be52882531e06435ab6.zip
@hardwarerepair200 thank you very much.
Woah. This video got served to me with a machine translated german voice track. It sounded like some spam. First time I have come across this feature, could you enable that yourself? I'd hate for my own videos to be re-dubbed by youtube...
Oh, UA-cam is dubbing my video without me knowing into German, French, Spanish, and etc...
No wonder why people are asking me if I am French...
those tantalizers are so damn hard to install without a board heater
I need to set the soldering iron to at least 400C. Anything lower than it would be difficult.
You're doing incredible work.
Sucks that modders have to result into hardcore fixes like this to fix Sony's mistake(s).
That stencil is not a direct heat stencil. The advice you received in the UA-cam comments was wrong. You did it correctly previously where you add a thin layer of flux, the stencil, the balls, then lift off the stencil carefully. You can also use a heat plate to get the balls to melt, rather than hot air. The advantage there is they won't blow away :) Also add a little less flux, you only need a VERY thin layer, enough to get the balls to stick and stay in place.
IN 20 MORE HOURS YOU'LL MAYBE GET ONE
I hope so, thank you for watching!
A very very nice video bro👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
This is a PS3 massacre! Im gonna call you The Butcher of Japan. Do enjoy your videos though. :)
I should change my channel name to "Amateur PS3 Killer"
No GPU is bad!
I have no idea why you or other parties “think” that
GPU’s are bad!
Experience will tell you that. Good equipment will show you that. 🤷🏻♂️ 90/65/40nm RSX’s are all good. Stop reading into crap on the internet that has no substance. Blows me away the sheep followers lmao 🥴
15:00 The stencil you have is not a direct heat stencil, so do heat it.
Welcome to hell, I'm currently working through the same process of doing the frankenstein mod for the first time. So much hardware has already been killed.
You're very close, and I believe you're capable of getting there.
Also amtech is stirri. They changed the name after some legal trouble. Stirri flux is the real deal.
Which rework station are you using now?
I didn't know amtech is now stirri, thanks for the info!
Amtech still exist. The so called Legal wrangle, which some named fluxgate. Stirri is rebrand and from my understanding is the breakaway partners who could not legally use the brand Amtech.
@@hardwarerepair200 I got a deal on a second hand LY IR8500. It's very similar to the ACHI IR PRO SC, but has some stupid design decisions like glass in front of the top heater. It cost me 400 dollars and came with some other equipment too so I got a very good deal on it. And it works great after I removed the glass on the bottom heater.
As far as I'm aware, here's the debacle with amtech flux:
Amtech manufacturing designs the flux and partners with inventec to produce it under the Amtech name.
Inventec mislabeled some of the flux or produced it wrong (I'm unsure), which resulted in the ending of the original partnership, but inventec can still use the Amtech name on the flux.
Amtech manufacturing continues to either manufacturer in house or partner with some other company to sell the flux, now rebranded as Stirri.
Thank you for the video, don't pay attention to the negative comments. We are all learning every day and no one knows everything. Hope you get there soon, best of luck
woah, so weird you post this video. i am just thinking about trying to make a frankie today :)
How's your Frankie going? Keep us updated!
@@hardwarerepair200 my frankie still lives in japan. i'm scouting online for my first victim... i mean patient!
Yessss new video
Got to share my traumatic experience with you guys
Let's goooo
Go go go
always use the (United Kingdom - English) its actual english.
*hipster English
Your top heater temperature is too high and the air station is not really suitable try getting 450w ir heater
Very good. Very funny. Thank you for the raffs.
Glad you enjoyed!
Nice work
Just changing Nec Tokins u got workin systems
Getting Frankie done with good equipment would definitely save time and money. But there are already too many people (Booter, ConsoleKing, RedOverload, etc.) doing it already.
What hasn’t been done is how to Frankie using a budget setup, and that’s exactly why I want to stick with my current budget setup. It might end up being more expensive in the long run, but I just want to answer the question: Can it be done?
@@hardwarerepair200 I believe you can do it.
But a better BGA equipment is required to preserve the boards and the RSX chip without letal damages.
the B model probably will work for some time..
Las PS3 japonesas son una maravilla..
I had 3 bad PS3s back in the days, one of them 20GB backwards compatible , all of them failed and I tossed them in the bin. I wish I kept them, looks like some of them could have be fixed.
Jajajajjaa yo al borde de la locura,vale la pena los dolores de cabeza cuando lo dominas
How many PS3s died in this video?
Living in 3034 😎
Nie usuwaj ihs z rsx 65 jak dajesz go do frankenstein
also those are not direct heat stencils some of these people in the comments have never worked on one of these and are handing out advice
Well I have seen plenty of videos where people had no delamination problem with the 868-22.
What evidence are you looking for exactly? The only evidence we have is anecdotal. I never bake and rarely get delam. Whenever I do, it's always an 868-22 board. If you look at someone like computer booter who's done over 200 Frankys. All of his delam boards are 868-22. I personally believe baking is useless. If a board is going to delam, then there's nothing you can do to stop it.
@Johnny_LuvBuckets So it's just more likely than the other revisions then.
Prebaking is industry standard practice even for new PCBs before any components are installed.
@@jm036 I'm familiar with the IPC standards. I get it, heat evaporates the moisture. It's not a hard concept to grasp. I'm reiterating this again, my evidence is anecdotal. I never bake and I never get delam. I use an LY R690V.3 hot air rework station. When I had my ACHI IR pro I would get delam more frequently. Again this is another theory that I can't prove. But I feel like hot air stations are more forgiving when it comes to delam. There are plenty of people (squeept, Sampsonay, Shawn) that use the IR pro and have success. So it's also possible it was a skill issue on my part.
@@Johnny_LuvBuckets Well according to another commenter a 3 zone hot air station like you have is less likely to delam. So that's 2 anecdotes.
16:32 one LouisR amount of flux
your hot air rework station its garbage, just get a better rework station that has the air pump inside of the rework station and blows more air than the fan inside of the soldering air tool thing
You need to STOP using that hot air gun with FAN IN HANDLE, its too slow to heat up, just watch youtube comparison of nozzle vs pump. The ones with blower in the handle IS BAD.
Clones are fine. Its easy to identify as the handle will be slim (no fan). It uses a compressor pump inside the station that pushes hot air. 1000% the reason you're failing.
Would you mind giving me a few suggestions?
For now, I’m sticking with my channel’s theme of getting Frankie done with a budget setup.
try to fix those consoles that does not need frankenstein mod and sell it, then buy some broken ps3 again
upgrade your BGA rework station it's not that good
Broooo I know you can fix one
I will try my best
WOOOOOO
his Japanese accent is funny
I know of a place that has 40nm chips preballed, would this have made things easier? As all you would have to do is line up the chip heat it up for the balls to melt and then give it a gentle nudge to seat it properly? In the new year I’m looking to have 2 launch ps3 60gb brought back to life if my ancestors see it worthy…or damn them to hell 😋
This was painful, I hope you get this done one day.
Having a 40nm chip preballed definitely save you a lot of trouble. I haven't tried it yet, but my friend who bought preballed RSXs off aliexpress got some really bad experience. Most of them doesn't work at all.
About xbox 360 that would be cool
34:46 lol 😂😅
you can try removing one of the springing on the mike stand and tightening the screws, also you want to make sure the tin foil isn't being lifted by the hot air make sure it is stuck down really good so no hot air goes under it.
The ai voice is doing you no favours
wait thats not his real voice??
Ah, I think he's talking about the UA-cam auto-dub.
UA-cam is dubbing my video in Spanish, French, German, and etc without me knowing😂
@@hardwarerepair200 oh lmao that makes sense then hahahha
Another great video btw :)
Epic video 😢 so many dead ps 3, but Frankenstein mod is amazing 😅 sanks i see evry vide, go egen man. By new termopro station with termoprofile and play game😂
Aqui no Brasil fazemos com churrasqueira eletrica bem mais facil e sucesso 100%
Pesquisa rebal ps3 churrasqueira eletrica
You! Are! Amazing! So much work, so much dedication, that’s fenominal if this is correct 😂 (German dude).
Every Video from you is very enjoyable and every time i hope that’s the console! 😮
You got this! 💪🏻💪🏻❤️
Glad you enjoyed it! Did you manage to listen to the German dub of my video before I deleted it? 😂
@ ❤️ it‘s also very impressive, I’ve tried only once to desolder an RSX, pocorning and that‘s it for me with PS3 💪🏻😂 and I’ve got myself an IR6500 BGA station. For Xbox classic CPU upgrades it works perfect 🤓
Oh i‘ve got the german dub, but hell no that‘s bad 😂 english content is like 80% of my youtube consumtion 🤓
You are french ?
No, but I do like French food. Do I have a French accent?
If so, I probably ate too much French food, haha.
@hardwarerepair200 why the video is in french ?
@@lamerguezw8437its just your localization settings lol idiot
Oh, maybe it is a UA-cam auto-translate thing.
I hate it, coz I often got recommended videos with English titles, but when I click inside, it's another language.
@@hardwarerepair200 ah ok 👌
All this just to play ps3 and ps2 games... which you can emulate or get a newer ps3... crazy.... but i love it 😂😂😂
You can prevent this entirely by delidding a low-hours PS3. Can't YLOD if it doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder. What's funny is this is nearly the same failure as the RROD.
RAHHHHHHHHHHH
Dont remove ihs from rsx in rebaling remove if will working
🤣🤣
Buy soldering station called "ИК Про" from russia, it's cheap and gooood, really, it's sad to see when u killing another console one by one
I was curious about trying bga rework but a quick search lists it at RUB 330,000.00 which is around $5,000 AUD?
@@OriginalityDaniel jeez, just checked price, and yeah, 5k AUD, when i wanted to buy it, the price is been 1k USD, inflation, or what.....
@@OriginalityDaniel but you can make it by yourself, 10 years ago i seen video from guy in kiev, it's maked DIY rework station, and founded somewhere software where u can make profile and control your station. You have table, now you need IR head and holder for it
@@cherbet also there is T870A i think its 15years old but it's cheaper, havent found any newer cheap models yet.
@@OriginalityDaniel yeah it really cheap
China number one!
What makes you think so lol
@@hardwarerepair200 Because the Chinese CECHL model lasted longer than all the others 27:50
@@frozer4055lol
@@frozer4055 😂
Buy AMTech Flux from North Ridge Fix Shop👍
Hes way over priced. Rossman is a much better value
Esa estacion de calor no sirve para ese tamaño de gpu, necesitas algo como infrarojo, yo me canse de intentar y solo quema las pcb el aire caliente no es lo ideal, es mejor la infraroja