Since Premiere has ended, the chat is no longer accessible. Let me post my reply here. @Toni For CELL side, if the TOKIN goes bad, you are likely to see 1001 in the syscon. But be careful, 1001 can be also due to forced shutdown.
Excellent YT posting. I've repaired numerous PS3/PS4 consoles. Howver, I've never replaced the PS3 TOKIN's yet on the YLOD (SYSCON 1001/1002) units I have - this is a great replacement. Thanks for showing the PS3 Tantalizer installation.
I fixed 3034 by pouring liquid flux to all sides under the BGA until it flooded. Then blowing the hot air under the board until all the flux dried. It's my first time doing this and I'm very happy with the result.
Good job, I have been watching you for awhile...I have been in this rabbit hole for years..I have over 20 a01 and eo1's...I have been following ripfelix, squeep, the computer Booter and your videos for years...I have a Booter Franky with ripfelix tatilizers....but still love trying to save these wonderful machines....I recommend anybody start with the cheaper dead ps3's before risking a A01..thanks J
Indeed. My first repair attempt was on a CECHP. And I messed up the TOKIN replacement. Better try the first repair attempt on the console you don't care about as a practice.
my American ps3 CECHA01, with backward compatibility with ps2 (COK - 001) was a total pain in the soul to fix the YLOD, until I noticed it was the "3034 syscon" issue, well, I guess I will have comission to do a full reballing for the RSX Graphic Synthesizer processor, because I am afraid to do such complex soldering... 😂😂😂
@@hardwarerepair200 Hi friend. How much $$ can you sell me a PS3 Fat console, already repaired, with shipping to Miami? Tell me and I'll buy one from you with everything complete. I await your response ☺️ Great video.
Hi, I recently came across your channel and found it very helpful/enjoyable to watch. I’ve been collecting PS3 games for half a year now (acquired almost 70 now) and always used a superslim to play them. Recently I came across an offer I couldn’t pass up. I’ve bought myself a CECHC03 which was supposed to work flawlessly and it costed me only 100$ with a bunch of accessories. Unfortunately I have to admit I’ve been scammed. The console powers up normally (doesn’t have any GLOD or YLOD), but it freezes upon opening any digitally owned game and doesn’t read any of my discs. I have seen that this topic was covered on ifixit but there is no definite answers. The Cell and RSX don’t get very hot but the PSU does and after about 5min. its fan spins up to 100% and is deafeningly loud. The console is in rough condition and it’s been tampered with many times by the previous owners. I’ve lost contact with the seller as he wouldn’t admit to the console fault. Any idea of what could be at fault?
When it freezes, do you see any artifacts on the graphics? You case seems to be difficult to troubleshoot, but I would guess the RSX is dying and you probably need to replace it with a 65 or 40nm one
@@hardwarerepair200 No, it’s just a black screen… but after doing a bunch of troubleshooting I found out something interesting. In summary the console works when I switch its output to any resolution besides 1080p. When in 1080p the console freezes upon opening any app/game. When in 720p for ex. the console reads games and opens the digitally owned ones normally. To me it seams like a failing RSX, but I’m unfortunately incapable of any BGA rework. I will stick to the lower resolutions for now and try to do a delid of the RSX (I’m to scared to do the cell for now).
@mammal1173 I would also say that it is a defective RSX. Or it is in its last breaths. I have a Ps3 C04 which like yours started to have problems at 1080p. Then at some point it stopped outputting a picture and when I reset the picture HDMI was dead and I got a broken picture via the other video connection.
It’s funny looking back at how a lot of folks blamed NEC Tokins (even though like any capacitor, they do indeed go bad and it will depend on the syscon logs) and insisted that replacing the caps would always fix YLOD.
@@hardwarerepair200 I hope you'll find some cheap PS4s with wlod or blod it would be a great content for us the viewers to watch and good for you when you fix them to flip them, keep making awesome content tho! 🙌🏻
3:00 you can easy clean all glue with clean gasoline like for zippo light crackers and etc im usually buy high octane gasoline that is specifically sold for cleaning electronics. it is sold in electronic component stores. this is also the same gasoline that is used in motors for radio-controlled airplanes
I was under the impression that the YLOD issue is not the TOKINs. It's the RSX failing because of bad underfill underneath the die of the RSX causing solder bump failure, and that it needs to be replaced, and that this 'fix' is not repair, and that ultimately every single 'fat' PS3 model is a ticking timebomb with a bad 90nm RSX chip that wil have to be frankensteined into either the 65nm or 40nm RSX from the Slim model.
Not all fat models have the 90nm chip my cechl01 has the 65nm chip in it from the factory only the first revisions of the fat model have that 90nm chip in it so any cecha01 I forget the other model but yeah cechl01 and forward have the 65nm or 40nm chip in them
If you want really satisfying for hot air soldering, get some solder paste. You just put it on the pads, stick the components on, and then carefully apply hot air.
@3:00 Nope, it is quite easy to get that sticky stuff off. There is no need for scraping and scratching, just use a little standard WD40 and then some isopropanol afterwards, to get rid of the remaining WD40 residue. Standard WD40 is not a lubrication oil, as some people think, it is solely meant for cleaning off persistent sticky stuff like this.
Dude if you have a hot air station, don't bother breaking up the tokins with pliers. You risk damaging the pads and cover the board in metal flakes that can cause shorts. Just use plenty of flux and cover the heat sensitive components. Also get a pcb holder. The wood desk is probably ok, but a soldering mat wouldn't be a bad idea.
Don't measure capacitors with a multimeter, it rarely goes well. Use an LCR. You can get a cheap LCR T4 (clone of German Mikrocontrollerforum's open source Transistortester) it works just fine, or any of the related devices. It's one of my most useful tools in electronics repair, it really does a lot. I don't think ripfelx will introduce any further significant changes to the Tantalizer, and you don't need aluminium electrolytic capacitors there since it's specified for modern polymer tantalum.
Can you make a video of PS3 (fat) with a new non-PS3 power supply? maybe SFX or HDPlex GaN. If you ever make this mod or a conversion like this one make a video!
More specifically, "Neon Nights", "Binary Sunrise", "Future Tomorrow", "Levelcap", and "Vercetti Forever". They are all from the album called "SynthRock Expansion Pack: Part 1"
I miss 5 years ago when I thought that capacitor problems only affected ancient hardware from 30 years ago. It seems like all retro hardware is going to be rare in the future, because most people will see YLOD and just trash their PS3.
I thought it was more than just the NEC tokens on old PS3's and the YLOD is also due to the same problems that microsoft had with the 360's GPUs in Xenon and Zephyr motherboards. It sucks the hardware was faulty from the word go because the PS3 and 360 were without a doubt the last best generation of console gaming. Gaming stopped being exciting once the PS4 / Xbox One era came out and modern gaming feels like a soulless money grab with forced social engineering from investment firm consultants and microtransactions under the guise of gacha boxes..
Just like when a person gets sick, it's never due only one single disease. When a console fails, it's never due to only one component. Both require diagnosis to pinpoint the exact issue.
Had the same idea or use a high powered soldering iron that can output 450c at the tip and use circular blade Dremel to cut the tokin in smaller strip so it be manageable to take apart
Indeed it happened to me in my very first attempt removing the NEC TOKIN. I set the hot air to 450C and it ended up ripping off the traces together with the NEC TOKIN.
Please please donate your home cache to other playstation home revival groups like splicewaves home headquarters, Destination home is close source and haven’t updated their cache repo for years now.
Hi, is there any chance you coud tell me what model of hot air station you used when you removed the rsx on your older videos ? 🙂 thanks for youe videos, it is nice to see someone making progress without spending thousands on expensive bga rework stations
Sorry for the late reply. The hot air station is YIHUA 959D, it is indeed a cheap one. For BGA rework, you also need a bottom heater. I use Puhui T8280 as my bottom heater.
I have v0.6b of the PCB's. Other than larger soldering area, what other differences does it have? Would you prefer i just go ahead and upgrade to the latest v0.9b?
i got error 1002 by accidentally knocked one of those tiny resistors or caps between the memory and rsx trying to delid. no error 3+++ on syscon diag. i know the console was working before that 'big mistake' because i have been using the tantalums for both cpu and rsx for 2 years. i am newbie in measuring whether current and voltages are correct for ps3. weirdly enough, after that one tiny thing knocked off. it can still turn on but no display and for 30 seconds then ylod. cpu is very warm and rsx a little i have posted this on subreddit but received no response other than 'buy a new one'
1002 indicates that the RSX is not getting the power it is supposed to receive. So it makes sense that you get 1002 after knocking off components near the RSX.
I just replied to your old video "Dealing with ylod in 2024" from like a year ago. Any chance you could check out my comments and explain a little for me? I've just never encountered a circuit like that in my hobbyist repairs. I'm not a newbie in electronics repairs themselves (the work), but im well below a newbie in diagnostics and understanding more complex circuitry like logic.
If you are interested in the circuit, you can check this video. He's basically explaining the circuit you see in my video. ua-cam.com/video/BcJ6UdDx1vg/v-deo.html
Hi guys I have a Ps3 that is behaving strangely. It has GLOD. However, when I remove the hard disk it becomes a YLOD. Well, I thought it might be a defective RSX. Nevertheless, I read out the Syscon and surprisingly it did not give me the expected error code 3034 but 1001 and 1002. Can a GLOD really be caused by defective NEC/Tokins or are the 1001 and 1002 caused by a defective RSX?
Any chance anyone havs an idea about this- I can insert disc, it spins it doesnt read. . I replaced laser drive, but exact same issue. So how can i find out how to find the issue. Is it a connection problem or something else. ? I also replaced the motherboard because the previous board was unrepairable. This is where i started getting issues with disc drive. Did i get another faulty board? :/ .. I know its not much of an explaination but maybe someone here will know.
Hey I have a ps2 and I found that has no video no sound . And there's tantalum caps under the gpu do you think that I'd my problem because I took em off and tested the mf. And there supposed to be 220mf and its reading most of them 290-300!?
Have you checked if the PS2 is phat or slim. As for no video or sound is usually a broken AV port or no power to the board. As you weren't clear on the information
Hii can anyone help me with that I have a ps3 slim when I started it's beeps 3 time and shut down and red led blink in 5th time I started it starts normal and I play GTA 5 for hours without any issues but when I play call of duty modern warfare 2 it work then doing 3 beeps and red led blink again and I don't have temperature issue why? Also can I see the error syscon through the ps3 when it work or I need to soldiering RX and TX Also can I use Arduino uno or ESP32 to see the error code please help?
The 3 beeps during a shut down for the slim usually something minor. Do a safe mode and rebuild the hard drive and if you have access to a 2.5 adaptor and check for physical bad sectors using a paid software called HD Sentinel as well hard drive health check as a failing hard drive can cause problems to the PS3 like slow loading, crashing during games and the list goes on
He can solder capacitors but not 2 CMOS wires? Just making shit cutting and working on single cable, one after a another preferably a couple centimetres (an inch) away and the raplecemount would've fit hm
Kinda gay that this isn't open source, but at the very least I gotta give him props, they do what literally no other proprietary board maker for systems ever does: let you have the files so you can print them yourself. That alone kinda redeems it for me but the price is what makes it based. It's always "nah you gotta get it from me :))" then 6 months later they're out of stock and never coming back.
Been doing a fair amount of research getting ready to buy a ps3 phat that is completely backwards compatible, I've watched a few of your videos now so thank you for the education. Have you gone over the Frankenstein mod or have a good video recommendation from anyone else? Everything I've seen is a little... Jank Thanks
Hasn't it been demomstrated already that replacing the caps does not fix ylod and rather it's an nvidia manufacturing process defect on some revisions or am I confusing two different issues ?
To clearify, the most recent Tantalizer revision needs to be trimmed. You need to cut off the outer edge down the middle of the slots, so that you have a plated edge to wick solder to. It's just designed to make soldering to the motherboard easier. To avoid using hot air, which can stress the BGA and cause a solder ball to crack. As you can see removing the old tokins can be difficult, so it's important to learn how to do it without using heat. The capacitors I linked to were just an example, so you can refrence the right specification. You should shop around for a better price and to find ones that are in stock.
Thank you for making the Tantalizer which makes our life easier! At 10:40, I also realized that I need to outer edge. I will do it better next time! Thank you for the comment, I wish I could pin this. But it is under a reply and can't be pinned.
@@ripfelix3020I agree with removing the NEC TOKINs without heat is generally a good idea, but the main reason it's so hard to melt the solder with hot air is because of how much heat the motherboard ground plane absorbs. It makes it incredibly hard to get good solder joints without preheating the board to saturate the ground plane.
Bub, please, your life would be SO much easier if you spent a few dollars and got better flux 9:21 Your doing good but You bridged caps 5 and 6 on the second tantalizer
Since Premiere has ended, the chat is no longer accessible. Let me post my reply here.
@Toni For CELL side, if the TOKIN goes bad, you are likely to see 1001 in the syscon.
But be careful, 1001 can be also due to forced shutdown.
Sometimes on a console with weak CELL TOKINs just shutting it down normally will sometimes cause 1001s too
1001 is also a general unexpected shutdown error, if it has another error its probably not related at all.
i have a cok-002 board with only 1001 in errlog and GLOD . would it need new tantalizer's or is there another fix i could do ?
@@kriszimmermann9308 if you have glod then it's probably gpu related
Excellent YT posting. I've repaired numerous PS3/PS4 consoles. Howver, I've never replaced the PS3 TOKIN's yet on the YLOD (SYSCON 1001/1002) units I have - this is a great replacement. Thanks for showing the PS3 Tantalizer installation.
I was randomly recommended this video and got jumpscared by my own video thumbnail. Glad to see people are using my overclocking guide.
Thank you for making the overclocking guide. I learned a lot new things!
This is a beautiful picture of a working community and society ❤ @@hardwarerepair200
I fixed 3034 by pouring liquid flux to all sides under the BGA until it flooded. Then blowing the hot air under the board until all the flux dried. It's my first time doing this and I'm very happy with the result.
Patience is the key, that must have taken long. Many ppl screw up by going too hot too fast while performing this fix. 👍🏽
What s the right temps
Good job, I have been watching you for awhile...I have been in this rabbit hole for years..I have over 20 a01 and eo1's...I have been following ripfelix, squeep, the computer Booter and your videos for years...I have a Booter Franky with ripfelix tatilizers....but still love trying to save these wonderful machines....I recommend anybody start with the cheaper dead ps3's before risking a A01..thanks J
Indeed. My first repair attempt was on a CECHP. And I messed up the TOKIN replacement.
Better try the first repair attempt on the console you don't care about as a practice.
my American ps3 CECHA01, with backward compatibility with ps2 (COK - 001) was a total pain in the soul to fix the YLOD, until I noticed it was the "3034 syscon" issue, well, I guess I will have comission to do a full reballing for the RSX Graphic Synthesizer processor, because I am afraid to do such complex soldering... 😂😂😂
"Oh come on, do your thing!"
We all know PS3 is good at YLOD lol
Too low on empediance
@@hardwarerepair200 Hi friend. How much $$ can you sell me a PS3 Fat console, already repaired, with shipping to Miami? Tell me and I'll buy one from you with everything complete. I await your response ☺️ Great video.
my brother in Christ you could have simply replaced the connectors to plug in the CMOS battery
Guy can microsolder these resistors onto the tiny PCB but he can't cut and join two wires??
@@Agretsometimes you can just lift the tabs and remove the pins to insert into the other connector.
@@perkulant4629 true, even easier.
And use flux on the Netac caps
Hi, I recently came across your channel and found it very helpful/enjoyable to watch. I’ve been collecting PS3 games for half a year now (acquired almost 70 now) and always used a superslim to play them. Recently I came across an offer I couldn’t pass up. I’ve bought myself a CECHC03 which was supposed to work flawlessly and it costed me only 100$ with a bunch of accessories. Unfortunately I have to admit I’ve been scammed. The console powers up normally (doesn’t have any GLOD or YLOD), but it freezes upon opening any digitally owned game and doesn’t read any of my discs. I have seen that this topic was covered on ifixit but there is no definite answers. The Cell and RSX don’t get very hot but the PSU does and after about 5min. its fan spins up to 100% and is deafeningly loud. The console is in rough condition and it’s been tampered with many times by the previous owners. I’ve lost contact with the seller as he wouldn’t admit to the console fault. Any idea of what could be at fault?
When it freezes, do you see any artifacts on the graphics? You case seems to be difficult to troubleshoot, but I would guess the RSX is dying and you probably need to replace it with a 65 or 40nm one
@@hardwarerepair200 No, it’s just a black screen… but after doing a bunch of troubleshooting I found out something interesting. In summary the console works when I switch its output to any resolution besides 1080p. When in 1080p the console freezes upon opening any app/game. When in 720p for ex. the console reads games and opens the digitally owned ones normally. To me it seams like a failing RSX, but I’m unfortunately incapable of any BGA rework. I will stick to the lower resolutions for now and try to do a delid of the RSX (I’m to scared to do the cell for now).
@mammal1173
I would also say that it is a defective RSX. Or it is in its last breaths. I have a Ps3 C04 which like yours started to have problems at 1080p. Then at some point it stopped outputting a picture and when I reset the picture HDMI was dead and I got a broken picture via the other video connection.
It’s funny looking back at how a lot of folks blamed NEC Tokins (even though like any capacitor, they do indeed go bad and it will depend on the syscon logs) and insisted that replacing the caps would always fix YLOD.
its not normal for capacitors to have such a short lifespan.. unless they are of terrible quality
And it was the bumps all along.
Excellent video many thanks for your time and effort from vini
Thank you for watching!
Nice work bro. Can u make a video on how to get error code on earlier ps3 That have mullion chip i think your explaining is very clear
It's the same process you need a ttl reader
Tantalum capacitors are heat-sensitive. Too much heat can cause them to pop, or you can simply reduce their lifespan.
This is why i'm subscribed! Good content!!!
Welcome aboard!
@@hardwarerepair200 I hope you'll find some cheap PS4s with wlod or blod it would be a great content for us the viewers to watch and good for you when you fix them to flip them, keep making awesome content tho! 🙌🏻
12:05 What about resoldering the old connector to the new battery
3:00 you can easy clean all glue with clean gasoline like for zippo light crackers and etc
im usually buy high octane gasoline that is specifically sold for cleaning electronics. it is sold in electronic component stores.
this is also the same gasoline that is used in motors for radio-controlled airplanes
I was under the impression that the YLOD issue is not the TOKINs. It's the RSX failing because of bad underfill underneath the die of the RSX causing solder bump failure, and that it needs to be replaced, and that this 'fix' is not repair, and that ultimately every single 'fat' PS3 model is a ticking timebomb with a bad 90nm RSX chip that wil have to be frankensteined into either the 65nm or 40nm RSX from the Slim model.
you can get YLOD from 1001 and 1002 syscon error, there are a few things besides rsx failure that can throw YLOD
The guy in the video said it correctly, also Felix mentioned it in his video that the RSX failing code is 3034, 1002 is usually the tokins
Not all fat models have the 90nm chip my cechl01 has the 65nm chip in it from the factory only the first revisions of the fat model have that 90nm chip in it so any cecha01 I forget the other model but yeah cechl01 and forward have the 65nm or 40nm chip in them
You’re right about HL having 65nm but those models don’t have hardware BC which is what the OP really meant
Both the TOKINs and the RSX have the chance to fail in early models. It's just which component fails first. Eventually, we might need to replace both.
Remember that a particular error in syscon can be a fault in multiple PS3 components and potentially good NEC tokin will be replaced for no reason
That's indeed true! It's like a doctor diagnosing a patient. Even the same symptom could be due to different diseases.
Eventually they will go bad. This NECs were problematic back then in other electronics. Toshibas were notorious for failing due to this caps.
If you want really satisfying for hot air soldering, get some solder paste. You just put it on the pads, stick the components on, and then carefully apply hot air.
@3:00 Nope, it is quite easy to get that sticky stuff off. There is no need for scraping and scratching, just use a little standard WD40 and then some isopropanol afterwards, to get rid of the remaining WD40 residue. Standard WD40 is not a lubrication oil, as some people think, it is solely meant for cleaning off persistent sticky stuff like this.
you are experienced in soldering so why did you not swapped port on cmos battery to the old one?
I CUT THE WIRES FROM CMOS BATERY AND CHANGE THE CONNECTORS....THANKS FOR THE VID....
The soldering is very tantalizing
You should buy the little usb type-c hot plate, works great
For PS3, we need a large hot plate.
amazing video 👍Long live PS3!
Dude if you have a hot air station, don't bother breaking up the tokins with pliers. You risk damaging the pads and cover the board in metal flakes that can cause shorts. Just use plenty of flux and cover the heat sensitive components.
Also get a pcb holder. The wood desk is probably ok, but a soldering mat wouldn't be a bad idea.
Thanks for the suggestions! Cheers!
Don't measure capacitors with a multimeter, it rarely goes well. Use an LCR. You can get a cheap LCR T4 (clone of German Mikrocontrollerforum's open source Transistortester) it works just fine, or any of the related devices. It's one of my most useful tools in electronics repair, it really does a lot.
I don't think ripfelx will introduce any further significant changes to the Tantalizer, and you don't need aluminium electrolytic capacitors there since it's specified for modern polymer tantalum.
Oh, I didn't know that. I thought multimemter is capable of measuring many things.
Another great video bud, keep it up!
Thanks for the visit!
Believe it or not I came up with the pcb idea a few years back I'm surprised it came out recently
I am also surprised by how active the PS3 community is!
@@hardwarerepair200 Yeah on psx-place site that where I mentioned about the pcb idea
@@hardwarerepair200 Yeah I mentioned the idea of the pcb in the psx place site
psx place is a very informative website! Most of the PS3 knowledge I have came from there.
This is going to be a game changer if we can buy them premade
Computer Booter did.
You can check out his ebay
www.ebay.com/str/computerbooter916
@@hardwarerepair200 Have a direct link to the product this is just the front end store
www.ebay.com/itm/255733429246?itmmeta=01HYHDQ5MSKEJ1VEB0KBF806F4&hash=item3b8ae673fe:g:mLwAAOSwp2RlnvkH
This was magnificent!
Thanks for watching!
Can you make a video of PS3 (fat) with a new non-PS3 power supply? maybe SFX or HDPlex GaN. If you ever make this mod or a conversion like this one make a video!
Very useful video for repairs!
Nice selection of music btw, what are yhey called?
Good taste! I have been using the music from Backing Track
backingtrack.gg/
More specifically, "Neon Nights", "Binary Sunrise", "Future Tomorrow", "Levelcap", and "Vercetti Forever".
They are all from the album called "SynthRock Expansion Pack: Part 1"
Here's the album
music.ua-cam.com/video/FVp8z_Eus4U/v-deo.html
Wish I had the equipment to fix my old fat backwards compatible PS3 YLOD RLOD
I miss 5 years ago when I thought that capacitor problems only affected ancient hardware from 30 years ago. It seems like all retro hardware is going to be rare in the future, because most people will see YLOD and just trash their PS3.
i still got MY PS3 has YLOD 60GB still got the original box
i also got a n64 with the original box too
Are you planing to fix it and give it a second life?
I thought it was more than just the NEC tokens on old PS3's and the YLOD is also due to the same problems that microsoft had with the 360's GPUs in Xenon and Zephyr motherboards.
It sucks the hardware was faulty from the word go because the PS3 and 360 were without a doubt the last best generation of console gaming. Gaming stopped being exciting once the PS4 / Xbox One era came out and modern gaming feels like a soulless money grab with forced social engineering from investment firm consultants and microtransactions under the guise of gacha boxes..
Just like when a person gets sick, it's never due only one single disease.
When a console fails, it's never due to only one component.
Both require diagnosis to pinpoint the exact issue.
Low temp solder also helps with removal
Had the same idea or use a high powered soldering iron that can output 450c at the tip and use circular blade Dremel to cut the tokin in smaller strip so it be manageable to take apart
@@neddy1287 i would be worried about ripping off the traces if you apply too much heat too long lol
Indeed it happened to me in my very first attempt removing the NEC TOKIN.
I set the hot air to 450C and it ended up ripping off the traces together with the NEC TOKIN.
Power supply can do yellow light of death also... 👏
Cool video, thansk for sharing
You can directly soldering capacitors on the motherboard and do not need small one, they are on a chip if self
Thank you for sharing! But I also want to bridge the positive terminals easily.
So a tantalizer board is the perfect solution.
Wait, so all this time I was scraping lacquer like a total idiot? 😂😂😂
Please please donate your home cache to other playstation home revival groups like splicewaves home headquarters, Destination home is close source and haven’t updated their cache repo for years now.
Oh, I didn't know there are other revival groups.
Thank you for letting me know, I will donate to all the groups I know then!
on the ps3 fat it is common for it to show ylod when running the game at the same time as playing music
If you check the syscon, you should be able to know what is causing it.
Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi, is there any chance you coud tell me what model of hot air station you used when you removed the rsx on your older videos ? 🙂 thanks for youe videos, it is nice to see someone making progress without spending thousands on expensive bga rework stations
Sorry for the late reply. The hot air station is YIHUA 959D, it is indeed a cheap one.
For BGA rework, you also need a bottom heater. I use Puhui T8280 as my bottom heater.
so i shouldn't do the good old cap repair ?, or do i specificly need the custom pcb for dealing with a 1002 ?
Hi guys, where can I find these 2 PCBs with the same capacitors as your video? Thanks!
you almost win every aspect in this project, but you lose only with small cmos battery connector😅
I have v0.6b of the PCB's. Other than larger soldering area, what other differences does it have? Would you prefer i just go ahead and upgrade to the latest v0.9b?
Wow PlayStation Home!! Anyone remember the Xii project in home??
i got error 1002 by accidentally knocked one of those tiny resistors or caps between the memory and rsx trying to delid. no error 3+++ on syscon diag.
i know the console was working before that 'big mistake' because i have been using the tantalums for both cpu and rsx for 2 years. i am newbie in measuring whether current and voltages are correct for ps3.
weirdly enough, after that one tiny thing knocked off. it can still turn on but no display and for 30 seconds then ylod. cpu is very warm and rsx a little
i have posted this on subreddit but received no response other than 'buy a new one'
1002 indicates that the RSX is not getting the power it is supposed to receive. So it makes sense that you get 1002 after knocking off components near the RSX.
thx for video the 2R5TPE470M9 its good too?
Interesting.
10:17 Hello,
Please where to buy NEC/TOKIN purple card after YLOD repair? Like eBay or Aliexpress? Feel free to both links...
Thank you
Here you go!
oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
If you change the RSX chip for the 60 or 40 chip, will the PlayStation accept it like nothing happened??
Cool you found playstation home
I just replied to your old video "Dealing with ylod in 2024" from like a year ago. Any chance you could check out my comments and explain a little for me?
I've just never encountered a circuit like that in my hobbyist repairs. I'm not a newbie in electronics repairs themselves (the work), but im well below a newbie in diagnostics and understanding more complex circuitry like logic.
If you are interested in the circuit, you can check this video.
He's basically explaining the circuit you see in my video.
ua-cam.com/video/BcJ6UdDx1vg/v-deo.html
Better to install boards for tantals.
Excellent
New life for those backward consoles
Saving dead consoles has become my hobby now!
Excellent work
Hi guys I have a Ps3 that is behaving strangely. It has GLOD. However, when I remove the hard disk it becomes a YLOD. Well, I thought it might be a defective RSX. Nevertheless, I read out the Syscon and surprisingly it did not give me the expected error code 3034 but 1001 and 1002. Can a GLOD really be caused by defective NEC/Tokins or are the 1001 and 1002 caused by a defective RSX?
Bad rsx 3034 is the first clue most people replace the caps as well
But as I said, I don`t get a 3034, only 1001 and 1002.
Any chance anyone havs an idea about this-
I can insert disc, it spins it doesnt read. .
I replaced laser drive, but exact same issue. So how can i find out how to find the issue. Is it a connection problem or something else. ? I also replaced the motherboard because the previous board was unrepairable. This is where i started getting issues with disc drive. Did i get another faulty board? :/ .. I know its not much of an explaination but maybe someone here will know.
Hey I have a ps2 and I found that has no video no sound . And there's tantalum caps under the gpu do you think that I'd my problem because I took em off and tested the mf. And there supposed to be 220mf and its reading most of them 290-300!?
The value seems normal. A working cap should have a higher reading than the supposed value.
So 300 is perfectly normal for a 220 cap.
Have you checked if the PS2 is phat or slim. As for no video or sound is usually a broken AV port or no power to the board. As you weren't clear on the information
Holy cow
Hii can anyone help me with that I have a ps3 slim when I started it's beeps 3 time and shut down and red led blink in 5th time I started it starts normal and I play GTA 5 for hours without any issues but when I play call of duty modern warfare 2 it work then doing 3 beeps and red led blink again and I don't have
temperature issue why? Also can I see the error syscon through the ps3 when it work or I need to soldiering RX and TX Also can I use Arduino uno or ESP32 to see the error code please help?
The 3 beeps during a shut down for the slim usually something minor. Do a safe mode and rebuild the hard drive and if you have access to a 2.5 adaptor and check for physical bad sectors using a paid software called HD Sentinel as well hard drive health check as a failing hard drive can cause problems to the PS3 like slow loading, crashing during games and the list goes on
i want my ps3 serviced this shits far too complex 😭😭😭
Tem a venda man esses capacitores
He can solder capacitors but not 2 CMOS wires? Just making shit cutting and working on single cable, one after a another preferably a couple centimetres (an inch) away and the raplecemount would've fit hm
If only there's a way to buy those tantalizers in Philippines
Can't you order from oshpark? It seems they ship to everywhere.
You can just get the Gerber files from there and get any manufacturer of your choice manufacture them for you.
Those nec token adhesive are no joke. I just got under it and ripped it off from the middle.
What tool do you use?
@@hardwarerepair200 just some surface cutters and an exacto knife to get in there a bit.
Kinda gay that this isn't open source, but at the very least I gotta give him props, they do what literally no other proprietary board maker for systems ever does: let you have the files so you can print them yourself. That alone kinda redeems it for me but the price is what makes it based.
It's always "nah you gotta get it from me :))" then 6 months later they're out of stock and never coming back.
$2 is for 3 boards. So each board is only $0.66.
But I guess small order PCB printing is always more expensive than large order.
I don’t think I’ll ever be able to solder that well but it was still educational.
I am not good at soldering either. I started only 2 years ago.
Dude... You could've just used flux and your heat gun to remove the tokens...
How many times have you cut yourself holding your finger so close to the knife 😭😭
Been doing a fair amount of research getting ready to buy a ps3 phat that is completely backwards compatible, I've watched a few of your videos now so thank you for the education. Have you gone over the Frankenstein mod or have a good video recommendation from anyone else? Everything I've seen is a little... Jank
Thanks
I saw a new video about Frankenstein mod which is quite good
ua-cam.com/video/c9I4aTqgMVA/v-deo.htmlsi=yGCU5DmIqaIhcVzU
you also using very bad flux
you need a fluxplus
and solder with a high tin content
is there any ps3 model which doesn't have these problems?
CECH-21xx and onwards no longer have them.
Slim/Super Slim.
Starting from model CECH2100 and onwards, it becomes very robust.
Hell yea dude dump that data ;p
Hasn't it been demomstrated already that replacing the caps does not fix ylod and rather it's an nvidia manufacturing process defect on some revisions or am I confusing two different issues ?
Thats the 3034 error
If its a 1001 or 1002 its usually the caps
It all depends on the syscon history. That's why always check syscon before attempting any fix.
To clearify, the most recent Tantalizer revision needs to be trimmed. You need to cut off the outer edge down the middle of the slots, so that you have a plated edge to wick solder to.
It's just designed to make soldering to the motherboard easier. To avoid using hot air, which can stress the BGA and cause a solder ball to crack. As you can see removing the old tokins can be difficult, so it's important to learn how to do it without using heat.
The capacitors I linked to were just an example, so you can refrence the right specification. You should shop around for a better price and to find ones that are in stock.
Thank you for making the Tantalizer which makes our life easier!
At 10:40, I also realized that I need to outer edge. I will do it better next time!
Thank you for the comment, I wish I could pin this. But it is under a reply and can't be pinned.
@@ripfelix3020I agree with removing the NEC TOKINs without heat is generally a good idea, but the main reason it's so hard to melt the solder with hot air is because of how much heat the motherboard ground plane absorbs. It makes it incredibly hard to get good solder joints without preheating the board to saturate the ground plane.
2:22 you need help 😂
Bro forgot to type ps3 on the title
Thank you for pointing it out! I have added it to the title.
@@hardwarerepair200 you're welcome brother
Bub, please, your life would be SO much easier if you spent a few dollars and got better flux
9:21 Your doing good but You bridged caps 5 and 6 on the second tantalizer
Are you sthetix?????
What makes you think so? 😂
@@hardwarerepair200 I don't know, very similar voice and repairing/modding consoles🤣