Відео

My stencil is able to be heated no problem. If you have a good stencil, it doesn’t do that. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this without leaving the stencil on after having done it in both ways I would never go back to doing it with taking the stencil off. It actually takes less than a quarter of the time to get it done when you leave the stencil on. So for the future, I would recommend getting a better stencil one that is already hardened so that it can be put in high temperature situations. you may want to use the solder glue instead of using regular heat applied solder with all the boards delaminating. either that or insulate the area around the gpu slot, but the glue would probably be alot easier for you

You're doing a fantastic job! Just a quick off-topic question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?

34:46 lol 😂😅

Have a happy holidays Amateur Hardware Repair

15:00 The stencil you have is not a direct heat stencil, so do heat it.

On the point of pre baking, my experience so far is, you can get away with preheating the board for an hour at 100c, then increase slowly by 20c increments before adding the top heater for extraction. This works for me without ram bleeding. Overall removing the ihs is a better process to do than leaving it on.

33:53 left side of the GPU's PCB also popped 😥

try to fix those consoles that does not need frankenstein mod and sell it, then buy some broken ps3 again

Buy soldering station called "ИК Про" from russia, it's cheap and gooood, really, it's sad to see when u killing another console one by one

No GPU is bad! I have no idea why you or other parties “think” that GPU’s are bad! Experience will tell you that. Good equipment will show you that. 🤷🏻‍♂️ 90/65/40nm RSX’s are all good. Stop reading into crap on the internet that has no substance. Blows me away the sheep followers lmao 🥴

31:07 oh hey that's me lmao glad ripfelix had a different suggestion

also those are not direct heat stencils some of these people in the comments have never worked on one of these and are handing out advice

My god props to you mad lads for going these lengths, reballing is not something i wanna do but i respect the ambition 😄

🤣🤣

"This new hobby has become my biggest torture" God so true. I've never heard of a hobby that _hasn't_ become torture at some point.

You're doing incredible work. Sucks that modders have to result into hardcore fixes like this to fix Sony's mistake(s).

You can prevent this entirely by delidding a low-hours PS3. Can't YLOD if it doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder. What's funny is this is nearly the same failure as the RROD.

his Japanese accent is funny

That stencil is not a direct heat stencil. The advice you received in the UA-cam comments was wrong. You did it correctly previously where you add a thin layer of flux, the stencil, the balls, then lift off the stencil carefully. You can also use a heat plate to get the balls to melt, rather than hot air. The advantage there is they won't blow away :) Also add a little less flux, you only need a VERY thin layer, enough to get the balls to stick and stay in place.

I'm starting my journey of amateur soldering. Watching your video made me feel like I'm not alone in this. You got this, my man.

the B model probably will work for some time..

All this just to play ps3 and ps2 games... which you can emulate or get a newer ps3... crazy.... but i love it 😂😂😂

How many PS3s died in this video?

you can try removing one of the springing on the mike stand and tightening the screws, also you want to make sure the tin foil isn't being lifted by the hot air make sure it is stuck down really good so no hot air goes under it.

I had 3 bad PS3s back in the days, one of them 20GB backwards compatible , all of them failed and I tossed them in the bin. I wish I kept them, looks like some of them could have be fixed.

I enjoy doing DIY soldering mods and repairs to old consoles, but these frankenstein mods etc involving reballing, preheating is way beyond my capabilities. So I personally don't give a F about PS2 backwards compatibility on PS3 and just use a PS2.. anyway you've came this far investing so much time and money so I hope you reach a point of success that satisfies you.

As ur starting to finally work out the budget set up is ur problem, especially with that top heater (hot air wand) not being up to par. You keep spending money and persisting but like many others warned it would be best to just buy a proper BGA machine and learn from that and u will get better success. I get this is all a learning process and we all need to go through it but sometimes u do need to listen to others that have gone through it already, much like myself, so u get a better head start into the reballing field on the PS3's. Once u have better equipment u will make that money back so always remember the equipment u use is always an investment so spending more at the beginning is never a bad thing.

Esa estacion de calor no sirve para ese tamaño de gpu, necesitas algo como infrarojo, yo me canse de intentar y solo quema las pcb el aire caliente no es lo ideal, es mejor la infraroja

So are you japanese or chinese?🤔

You need to STOP using that hot air gun with FAN IN HANDLE, its too slow to heat up, just watch youtube comparison of nozzle vs pump. The ones with blower in the handle IS BAD. Clones are fine. Its easy to identify as the handle will be slim (no fan). It uses a compressor pump inside the station that pushes hot air. 1000% the reason you're failing.

I haven't seen any of your video's before, but, to the guy that was critical of your English, he can shove it, I watched this whole video on 2x speed and understood 95% of what you said, that's pretty damn good for an ESL speaker

Couple of tips, You got way too much flux on the chip, you are suppose to have a very thin layer. That layer of flux is only to help the solder balls to stick on the pad. Either make the layer a lot thinner, I mean a lot thinner with your glove and your smooth glove not your spiky glove or get hot air at maybe 250 to heat the flux so its smooth but not activated and not hard or combine the both, which then would allow you to fully coat the entire chip in flux once the solder balls are stuck to the pad. What can also help you is buying a phone repair mat like the Mechanic CPB14 or CPB 320. These reach at 120c and would allow the chip to be preheated and have make it far easier when putting top heat. Also please remove the chip from the stencil jig as that absorbs a lot of heat. Second, you are heating the chip way too fast when removing and soldering. With my Hot air bga station, there are steps such as go to 220c then stay for 45 seconds, go to 245c stay for 40 seconds then 280c for 120 seconds, the longer duration is only to allow me have the extra time if i need it since its a profile type bga station and i cannot edit it once i start it, chip will usually remove after 280c at 40 seconds. For your hot air gun, try to have similar steps with interviles to allow everything to evenly heat and soak in the heat, you shouldn't apply max heat all at once and try to remove it as fast as possible with the highest heat possible. And if its possible, try to preheat your board higher. You want more even heat rather than board being 170c preheated and then blasting 450c right at the middle, thats when problems occur and do not worry about putting the IHS heat sink onto the chip when soldering as that absorbs a lot of heat and you do not need any sort of weight to help the chip solder, the chip with solder with the perfect amount of flux and heat. Lastly, I keep my hot air nozzle very very close to the chip, Maybe around 2-5mm. Hope these tips can help

This is the type of content I love to see and even more so after fighted with so much misinformed people in PS3 Facebook groups and tried to correct them about the YLOD keep doing your hard work, for me your channel along with the one of RIP-Felix are the best and most educational ones about fixing PS3s! RIP-Felix is like a Scientist who explains everything, and you are The One who shows how everything can be put in practice by a normal person to fix his console and learn the process

You forgot to sacrifice a live chicken to appease the evil spirits. This is why your project failed.

About xbox 360 that would be cool

We are aware that all those economically damaged PS3s are equal to a good quality heat gun.

Guys, this video is in English. UA-cam is dubbing my video into German, French, and Spanish without me knowing... I hate it and I am disabling this auto-dub feature now.

you got this never give up good luck

This is so underrated...

Woah. This video got served to me with a machine translated german voice track. It sounded like some spam. First time I have come across this feature, could you enable that yourself? I'd hate for my own videos to be re-dubbed by youtube...

This is a PS3 massacre! Im gonna call you The Butcher of Japan. Do enjoy your videos though. :)

Thank you for the video, don't pay attention to the negative comments. We are all learning every day and no one knows everything. Hope you get there soon, best of luck

Las PS3 japonesas son una maravilla..

16:32 one LouisR amount of flux

Your top heater temperature is too high and the air station is not really suitable try getting 450w ir heater

You! Are! Amazing! So much work, so much dedication, that’s fenominal if this is correct 😂 (German dude). Every Video from you is very enjoyable and every time i hope that’s the console! 😮 You got this! 💪🏻💪🏻❤️

Nice work Just changing Nec Tokins u got workin systems

woah, so weird you post this video. i am just thinking about trying to make a frankie today :)

you can do it, i have 6 years of experience with consoles and i never took off a processor and look at you you almost got it, its just matter of keep trying