I thought I was done with my rifle build but after watching this video I want a few more things for it. That Ambi Bolt catch is pretty sweet. Thanks for the content, you are inspire me with your taste in guns.
It's a really nice bolt catch. Takes a lot of time to get it installed fitted properly, but I think it's well worth it, and I do personally prefer it over the PDQ since it has a slightly larger profile. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I built my ar15 out to look like the HK416 and the safety is so hard to install once in you never have to worry about it again lol and I build all my lowers with the pdq
Nice. Yeah the safety's pretty tricky. The easiest way I've found to install it is to attach the left side lever in the selector axle separate from the lower, then place the lower (with selector axle) in a magwell vise block to tap in the right side selector lever. It's still pretty awkward especially when starting the roll pin, but it's worked fairly well for me so far.
@@Feldmutze I believe that was how I did it I have a UA-cam short of what mine looked like and I am building out a 10.3 now using a Geissele mk4 rail having a hard time finding another port door and V7 grip
I checked out that short, cool rifle! You could try Precision Arms Indiana, I just checked and they have the RAL8000 V7 pistol grips in stock at a pretty price right now. Port covers seem to be a little scarce at the moment as they're out of stock from all the places I usually buy from.
Thanks! I've been trying to get a metric punch that would fit better but all the ones I can find are larger than I would need. I used a 1/16" punch for the safety lever and the smallest metric I can find is 3mm.
Just got an mr556 yesterday. Worth it. Lol. Anything you'd recommend when suppressing it? Also thanks for your video, i thought I'd had to do extensive diving to see what parts do fit or don't, but your video covered most things. Can't decide if it's worth swapping out the rail or not...
Congrats! And I'm glad the video helped. For suppressing I'd recommend a flowthrough/reduced backpressure suppressor as it can get pretty overgassed otherwise, and switching to an adjustable gas block like the NA5 gas block helps a ton.
@Feldmutze awesome, thanks for the info! So I guess no dice on using non flow through suppressors then? Cest la vie lol. Is it just like other ARs to remove the gas block or is it worth sending it to an armored to swap it?
Non flow-through suppressors are still doable, just not the most pleasant. However, especially if you switch to an adjustable gas block then there's no issues with a regular suppressor. As far as actually swapping out the gas block, the process is pretty similar to regular ARs, you just need to punch out two coiled roll pins then the gas block will slide off the front of the barrel. Both the pins and the gas block are a very tight fit so using Kroil can help a lot.
@Feldmutze thanks! Really appreciate your videos. Also I went looking for the gas block you recommended and saw they linked to your review of it haha, should have just browsed your videos. I'm subscribed 👍
I hadn't planned on doing a video like this for the MR762 as nearly all the parts on it are proprietary. I did a review on the MR762 about a month ago where I briefly mentioned some of the parts ua-cam.com/video/eClolq5SCMI/v-deo.html but aside from that, I don't think there would be enough to discuss for a full video.
Geissele tubes have drainage holes in them which work well especially if you have too much oil on the system and are designed more for water and what not but I do believe that they’re buffer too would fit a little bit farther back behind the smooth surface. There’s about a good quarter inch before it starts after the threading could be wrong. My question is can you assemble a HK upper and put it on a fully built high-end lower is for M-16 cut will definitely be in spec. Just curious what are the differences needed to be done because of their or I’d rather just get a lower whether and then have it sent off to have it re-anodized and edging put in to there’s a company in Pennsylvania that does it very well. Do everything from the BRN to the MR. They just can’t change serial numbers that’s it for obvious purposes, but they can relocate stuff markings if you’re into doing a clown and having it which they blast off the old and redo it and it’s not an easy process it’s very time-consuming and it’s not gonna be cheap. It’s not cerakote they have a build for someone that looks just like the armies new same color the M110 SAS S the new A1 version that H K is doing opposed to knights armament They’re still running since 2007 I believe the SSAE trigger from geissele It looks like they have a proprietary rail, but it looks like geissele made it for them Because of the dog bone and what not just the way the rail system is but they run the flow on them. 762. They’re still loud work on anything like an MR 762 into a m110 A1 It just cost a little bit and think you have to just look. I forget the company it’s out of Pennsylvania, but it’s company that just does a lot of work with H and k shit they’ve even made their own a five where they drill into your lower to make it like an A5 for the bolt bolt open and bolt drop as they’re making shit ambidextrous so they have some amp dexterous parts. They can add into it if it’s not in a five and you want something close to an A5 variant they can do that.
When you say "assemble a HK upper" - are you assembling an HK416 upper or an MR556 upper? The MR556 upper receiver doesn't have the shelf cut so it won't clear the sear on an M16 lower, and also uses a semi-auto only BCG. You would need a full HK416-spec upper to work on an M16 lower. BRN-4 or a true HK416 upper would both work for that purpose.
I’m running into the same issue with installing the axle pin in the ambi safety selector. 1/16 punch can drive the axle pin halfway but then it stops. What size punch did you use to successfully install yours? Or did you use an adjustable wrench, use leverage from a vise to drive the axle pin through, etc.?
Since doing this video I've done a few more safety installs and the best option I've found is the starter punch set from Brownells as they're one of the only ones to have smaller punch sizes than 1/16" in that kit. They're pretty fragile though so I'd get a couple of them at least.
ive seen it said that certain(ar15) triggers will not work with the hk416/mr556 uppers....ive been running the ALG defense trigger, but wanting to go with like a 2-stage Geissele, but not sure about compatibility-thoughts?
I live in Europe and have the Mr556 which is called 223 in 11 inch as you already mentioned, I was looking for just a video like this. I am looking forward to get an ar15 upper with direct impingement 16 inch to run it on my lower 223. I swear none of my gunsmiths could tell me if this was possible, know thanks to you i know it a little better. But i am so unsure if i should do this, because I don’t have the know how if it isn’t just click and ready to rock. What is your opinion on that?
I'm glad to hear the video helped a bit! Do you have an MR223A1-A3 or one of the older MR223s? The A1-A3 should be compatible with AR-15 uppers, however I have read that the original MR223 is not compatible.
@@Feldmutze thanks Buddy, when I try it out I hope I will remember this conversation and if you like I can comment again and share my experience. Cheers
Will AR15 mags fit? I have a bunch of PMAG Ar/M4 Gen M2 mag. I have the Mr556 upper. I don't want to buy an HK lower if I have to only use HK mags. Thanks
Nope. The HK416 rail sits significantly higher than an AR-15 and also the handguard indexes on a groove cut into the upper receiver that isn't present on ARs.
@@aggiebaz Thanks! The ADM4 lower is the tanodized one. I had it reanodized and remarked by Black Ops Defense. The green lower is an old DPMS Oracle lower that I cut to fit 416A5 ambi controls and had cerakoted in OD green.
I prefer having the buffer retaining pin so if I want or need to replace the buffer components I can do so easily and not be committed to a proprietary system, whereas if I were to remove the retaining pin I'd either have to keep using captured buffers or deal with the spring flying out when field stripping.
@@Feldmutze I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to just buy a couple of captured buffers anyway, they make all my builds and life so much easier, if 1 breaks I don’t have to worry about keeping track of the retaining pin and can swap one should it break but I haven’t ever had a problem with a buffer.
@@Wockhardt706 Personal preference and expense, especially when stocking spares I don't see the captured buffer as being worth it. If they work for you that's great. I have one and it's decent but not revolutionary enough to warrant changing everything over everything to them imo.
This is going in my 150 video M27 IAR playlist
I thought I was done with my rifle build but after watching this video I want a few more things for it. That Ambi Bolt catch is pretty sweet. Thanks for the content, you are inspire me with your taste in guns.
It's a really nice bolt catch. Takes a lot of time to get it installed fitted properly, but I think it's well worth it, and I do personally prefer it over the PDQ since it has a slightly larger profile. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I come to this channel for actual information. Fantastic
Glad to hear the videos are informative, thank you!
Did not know about the enhanced buffer tube and retaining pin. Buying two sets now. One for the 15 and one for the 10. Thanks as usual man.
No problem! They're both pretty good upgrades imo.
If I didn't know any better, it would seem as if H&K doesn't want its owners to take their guns apart. 😂😂
Love HK, can't wait to purchase my MR556
exquisite video, thank you.
I built my ar15 out to look like the HK416 and the safety is so hard to install once in you never have to worry about it again lol and I build all my lowers with the pdq
Nice. Yeah the safety's pretty tricky. The easiest way I've found to install it is to attach the left side lever in the selector axle separate from the lower, then place the lower (with selector axle) in a magwell vise block to tap in the right side selector lever. It's still pretty awkward especially when starting the roll pin, but it's worked fairly well for me so far.
@@Feldmutze I believe that was how I did it I have a UA-cam short of what mine looked like and I am building out a 10.3 now using a Geissele mk4 rail having a hard time finding another port door and V7 grip
I checked out that short, cool rifle! You could try Precision Arms Indiana, I just checked and they have the RAL8000 V7 pistol grips in stock at a pretty price right now. Port covers seem to be a little scarce at the moment as they're out of stock from all the places I usually buy from.
Very good content buddy 🇺🇸💯
Thank you!
Good video. Side note for your punch set you should see if you cant get a metric set. im sure thats why your standard size is getting binded up.
Thanks! I've been trying to get a metric punch that would fit better but all the ones I can find are larger than I would need. I used a 1/16" punch for the safety lever and the smallest metric I can find is 3mm.
We need an A5 MR556 in the US
Agreed, hopefully HK USA will eventually start selling those.
Just got an mr556 yesterday. Worth it. Lol. Anything you'd recommend when suppressing it?
Also thanks for your video, i thought I'd had to do extensive diving to see what parts do fit or don't, but your video covered most things. Can't decide if it's worth swapping out the rail or not...
Congrats! And I'm glad the video helped. For suppressing I'd recommend a flowthrough/reduced backpressure suppressor as it can get pretty overgassed otherwise, and switching to an adjustable gas block like the NA5 gas block helps a ton.
@Feldmutze awesome, thanks for the info! So I guess no dice on using non flow through suppressors then? Cest la vie lol. Is it just like other ARs to remove the gas block or is it worth sending it to an armored to swap it?
Non flow-through suppressors are still doable, just not the most pleasant. However, especially if you switch to an adjustable gas block then there's no issues with a regular suppressor. As far as actually swapping out the gas block, the process is pretty similar to regular ARs, you just need to punch out two coiled roll pins then the gas block will slide off the front of the barrel. Both the pins and the gas block are a very tight fit so using Kroil can help a lot.
@Feldmutze thanks! Really appreciate your videos. Also I went looking for the gas block you recommended and saw they linked to your review of it haha, should have just browsed your videos. I'm subscribed 👍
What other triggers would work with the mr556 upper the schmeisser is out of stock everywhere.
Would you consider doing a similar video for your MR762?
I hadn't planned on doing a video like this for the MR762 as nearly all the parts on it are proprietary. I did a review on the MR762 about a month ago where I briefly mentioned some of the parts ua-cam.com/video/eClolq5SCMI/v-deo.html but aside from that, I don't think there would be enough to discuss for a full video.
Comment for the algorithm
Thanks! It helps.
Ditto!
Geissele tubes have drainage holes in them which work well especially if you have too much oil on the system and are designed more for water and what not but I do believe that they’re buffer too would fit a little bit farther back behind the smooth surface. There’s about a good quarter inch before it starts after the threading could be wrong. My question is can you assemble a HK upper and put it on a fully built high-end lower is for M-16 cut will definitely be in spec. Just curious what are the differences needed to be done because of their or I’d rather just get a lower whether and then have it sent off to have it re-anodized and edging put in to there’s a company in Pennsylvania that does it very well. Do everything from the BRN to the MR. They just can’t change serial numbers that’s it for obvious purposes, but they can relocate stuff markings if you’re into doing a clown and having it which they blast off the old and redo it and it’s not an easy process it’s very time-consuming and it’s not gonna be cheap. It’s not cerakote they have a build for someone that looks just like the armies new same color the M110 SAS S the new A1 version that H K is doing opposed to knights armament They’re still running since 2007 I believe the SSAE trigger from geissele It looks like they have a proprietary rail, but it looks like geissele made it for them Because of the dog bone and what not just the way the rail system is but they run the flow on them. 762. They’re still loud work on anything like an MR 762 into a m110 A1 It just cost a little bit and think you have to just look. I forget the company it’s out of Pennsylvania, but it’s company that just does a lot of work with H and k shit they’ve even made their own a five where they drill into your lower to make it like an A5 for the bolt bolt open and bolt drop as they’re making shit ambidextrous so they have some amp dexterous parts. They can add into it if it’s not in a five and you want something close to an A5 variant they can do that.
When you say "assemble a HK upper" - are you assembling an HK416 upper or an MR556 upper? The MR556 upper receiver doesn't have the shelf cut so it won't clear the sear on an M16 lower, and also uses a semi-auto only BCG. You would need a full HK416-spec upper to work on an M16 lower. BRN-4 or a true HK416 upper would both work for that purpose.
I’m running into the same issue with installing the axle pin in the ambi safety selector. 1/16 punch can drive the axle pin halfway but then it stops. What size punch did you use to successfully install yours?
Or did you use an adjustable wrench, use leverage from a vise to drive the axle pin through, etc.?
Since doing this video I've done a few more safety installs and the best option I've found is the starter punch set from Brownells as they're one of the only ones to have smaller punch sizes than 1/16" in that kit. They're pretty fragile though so I'd get a couple of them at least.
What Schmeisser Trigger are you using?
I'm using the Schmeisser Two Stage trigger.
ive seen it said that certain(ar15) triggers will not work with the hk416/mr556 uppers....ive been running the ALG defense trigger, but wanting to go with like a 2-stage Geissele, but not sure about compatibility-thoughts?
The regular Geissele AR-15 triggers don't work on a 416/MR556 upper. You'll need to go with their specific MR 556 trigger.
I live in Europe and have the Mr556 which is called 223 in 11 inch as you already mentioned, I was looking for just a video like this. I am looking forward to get an ar15 upper with direct impingement 16 inch to run it on my lower 223. I swear none of my gunsmiths could tell me if this was possible, know thanks to you i know it a little better.
But i am so unsure if i should do this, because I don’t have the know how if it isn’t just click and ready to rock.
What is your opinion on that?
I'm glad to hear the video helped a bit! Do you have an MR223A1-A3 or one of the older MR223s? The A1-A3 should be compatible with AR-15 uppers, however I have read that the original MR223 is not compatible.
@@Feldmutze got the Mr 223 A3, maybe some of my colleagues will borrow me their DI AR15 so that I can try it out
@@Santiino14 MR223A3 should be all good with all AR uppers but that'd be a good idea to confirm.
@@Feldmutze thanks Buddy, when I try it out I hope I will remember this conversation and if you like I can comment again and share my experience. Cheers
@@Santiino14 You're welcome! Yeah I'd be interested to know if it works or not as I haven't been able to test an MR223 myself.
are triggers interchangeable?
Are the back plates (thing underneath the castle nut on the buffer tube, for mounting slings) milspec?
Yes, the back plate/endplate is standard and will fit ARs like normal.
Will AR15 mags fit? I have a bunch of PMAG Ar/M4 Gen M2 mag. I have the Mr556 upper. I don't want to buy an HK lower if I have to only use HK mags.
Thanks
Gen 2 PMags will not fit in an MR556 lower. Most other AR-15 magazines will fit.
@@Feldmutze which would you recommend?
I've had good luck with Duramags personally so those would be what I'd recommend, but any of the regular aluminum/steel magazines will work.
Lancer mags work great with the HK style lower, Gen 2 magpul mags dont seat right.
Did you cut your HK MR556 barrel and who did your cerakote.
My MR556 still has a 16.5" barrel. As for the finish, I had this reanodized and re-marked by Black Ops Defense.
Hello. Please, give me an advice. Do you know if I can put MAGPUL MOE K2 GRIP and MAGPUL MOE Trigger Guard on my MR223? Thank so much.
Both are fully compatible and will fit without issue.
@@Feldmutze Thank you so much.
Can you put an AR15 Upper on a 416?
Yes, the HK lowers will fit ARs.
It also works vise versa
I think I might have missed it, but what about the grip?
The grip is fully compatible between the two. 416 grips will fit ARs and vise versa.
@@Feldmutze Thanks a lot! Your MR556 videos have been a big help.
@@greenefieldmann3014 No problem, and I'm glad the videos are helpful!
Could you put an hk rail guard on an ar15?
Nope. The HK416 rail sits significantly higher than an AR-15 and also the handguard indexes on a groove cut into the upper receiver that isn't present on ARs.
What lower are you using?
I'm using an ADM4 lower.
Is this the ADM4 OD green anodized lower or did you have it anodized a different color? If so what color? I love your setup!
@@aggiebaz Thanks! The ADM4 lower is the tanodized one. I had it reanodized and remarked by Black Ops Defense. The green lower is an old DPMS Oracle lower that I cut to fit 416A5 ambi controls and had cerakoted in OD green.
An HK MR556 upper fit a milspec AR15 lower? Will a milspec BCG fit the HKMR556?
Thank you.
MR556 upper will fit AR-15 lowers. Only HK MR556/MR223 BCGs will fit in the MR556.
Why not just take out the buffer retaining pin and run a JP industries silent capture buffer that doesn’t need the retaining pin
I prefer having the buffer retaining pin so if I want or need to replace the buffer components I can do so easily and not be committed to a proprietary system, whereas if I were to remove the retaining pin I'd either have to keep using captured buffers or deal with the spring flying out when field stripping.
@@Feldmutze I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to just buy a couple of captured buffers anyway, they make all my builds and life so much easier, if 1 breaks I don’t have to worry about keeping track of the retaining pin and can swap one should it break but I haven’t ever had a problem with a buffer.
@@Wockhardt706 Personal preference and expense, especially when stocking spares I don't see the captured buffer as being worth it. If they work for you that's great. I have one and it's decent but not revolutionary enough to warrant changing everything over everything to them imo.