He's a genuine petrolhead just like the rest of us ..it's like someone has died in the family!! Just think of that m egane m8..you was all over him like a rash..that's how quick Steve's car was..Fast Fords..Steve best of luck with rebuild fella110%.☆
05:17 "Everything on it is just awkward" - my thoughts exactly of Fords! Then I got a BMW and found out what awkward really means. Keep up the good work Steve!
I think bmw start the design process from the common parts that need replacing and build a car around them - with plenty of plastic clips that snap off
"I'm just a diy mechanic"!. The dept of your videos and the stuff you do go's beyond what most mechanics know about cars! The only difference is they have a computer that says wich bolt to take out in the right order😁. Coffee and this in the morning is just perfect!
Nice to see it apart and confirmed the rings are reason. A few of us said it was the rings. no speculation as to why but I have a suspicion. I’ll be glued for the next one Steve.
Hi Steve , my theory to the problem lays in the block or the serviceability of the head gasket. Situation you have is ,the engine had wear before you started using it for track. Now I haven’t followed many of your videos but I hazard a guess that with that flash turbo its above standard tune and running higher boost / power. The more performance you run the less reliability you will have . I don’t see there was anything wrong with the the tune of the engine as everything was running fine, it’s not detonation as this happens within the combustion chamber and there’s no damage to the face of the piston. You noticed a crack in the wall of cylinder 4 liner that is your clue . compression has squeezed passed the liner either through the head gasket or coolant gallery. Possibly in turn this may have caused a air lock and a coolant restriction in the engine, when this happens coolant doesn’t flow as it should and temperature rises rapidly causing hot spots on the cylinder walls. for it to damage rings and ring lands to fail . It can be repaired but as you guess it’s just as cheap to slap in another engine and have more fun 🤩
I thought that was what had happened, massive amount of work involved to get to the piston, you need to find out the cause otherwise it will kill your replacement engine as well, probably down to detonation/tune .... best of luck with it Steve 👍
Thanks so much Steve for taking the time to strip the engine to see what the failure was even though like you say the piston rings from cylinder 1 have dis-integrated. Also don't explain to your followers about your skill level as you should give yourself credit as you are willing to give anything a go and are very competent.
Great video Steve, gone are the days you carry a box of spanners in the boot in case you break down while out. The modern engine is so complicated now. Your doing far better than i would
@@kd2833 what can prevent that? Either better cooling ( which night not help ya with too much boost ) or file down the ring gap. In burgerland engines get granaded all the time because of 200 shot leans the engine out gets real hot closes the gap and breaks the piston.
Called it. It's potentially caused by pre-ignition/detonation. Either too much timing, incorrect fuelling and even a hot spot from carbon or tiny bit of damage to the piston. That engine should also be rebuildable with liners and pistons unless it really was cooked and is warped. You ideally need to find a cause otherwise it's likely to happen again 😔
I wouldnt say its detonation. No det marks on the top of the piston. Piston looks quite healthy aprt from the damage to the side. Looks like the liners have shifted and worn the edge off the piston
@@danf3576 It's difficult to tell without looking in person - I have seen it where the evidence is "removed" by a hole being blown down the side of the piston. I have had a think since I first watched the video (it was on a tablet, I had another look on my laptop, so it is clearer), and there are a couple of things that come to mind or stand out. I agree that the liners have most likely shifted. On turbo cars with a higher boost (I'm sure he said he's had a tune with the boost increased?), the rings are usually gapped wider as they expand more - rings with standard gaps can close up and cause damage like this. If you look on the top of the No 1 liner, the carbon build-up looks like there was potentially a head gasket failure. This would tie in with the liners shifting. There is also part of the piston crown that is clean of carbon. This can happen when the coolant gets in the cylinder. Again, if the boost has been increased I'm also wondering if the head bolts stretched and the head lifted under heavy boost - that would certainly help cause the liners to shift. To be honest, there are a few things that could have happened and it's hard to tell from an armchair.
Great job and I'm glad that all the damage seems to have occurred below the piston crown and the turbo didn't get damaged (hopefully). I can't believe how much stuff there is to strip down just to get the head off of a modern engine !
Certainly looks like it's been hot in no.1 ring land failure is common issue with heat. Without logging afr we don't know what the ratio was but I bet it would help running it a few points richer to help with cylinder temps. Perhaps when you get the new engine filling down the ring gap a few thou to help prevent the rings butting up again.
Unlucky dude hope you get it sorted and back up and running asap I thought mine was a gonner when I blew my head gasket at cadwell Park back in November last year.
Maybe on the new engine run a different type of coolant and run your fan on when you are on track. I also think you need to port your engine it will help with the engine gases.good video best of lucky
Steve, Ford didn't bring the sleeve all the way to the top of the block. It ends just below the Head mating surface. that coolant passage between the cylinders makes for a thin spot that flexes and deforms under heat and stress. You said in the video that there was a little bit of movement right where cylinder 1 and 2 meet. This is a common problem. You can get the Mountune supported block or you can look at a couple of other options who are re-sleeving the block completely. That is probably why there was a clean spot above the failed area on piston one. J
Looks like there was too much boost and too little fuel and the ignition was too high to me but it might be worth investing in some forged pistons when rebuilding the engine
Great video Steve Well at least we know those who diagnosed a ringland failure were correct. The mark on the piston looks like it's got very hot, surprised there was no damage to the bore. Whats also concerning is the crack in piston 4, there's no saying this wasn't done before the piston failure and the engine wasn't showing any signs of a crack, I'm not sure as said if adding shims to the liners would solve this as you'd then be comprising the cooling between the bores and as the cut out isn't the full width like the 5 pot volvo engine would it really stop a crack from forming
Dont know much about those engines but id say the extra power was just a bit too much for that piston probably not helped by too much heat. Hope you get it sorted and it doesnt cost you too much money.
To say you’re not a mechanic you’re very knowledgeable, I’ve been looking for a vacuum leak for days on my Fiesta but scared to even take anything apart 🤣
That engine was definitely suffering detonation at high rpm. The new engine will suffer the same fate if the cause isn't rectified. If the bore is ok that could go again with a new piston but ford don't quote any torque settings for the bottom end. Hope you get it sorted.
Nice Video Steve this has just happened to my son’s ST180 so when i get back to the UK from work i have to strip and rebuild his engine and this video has gave me a good few tip’s.
Just found this video, and I feel your pain. My Focus ST also suffered engine failure, 5 weeks after warranty expired. Managed to bet a goodwill gesture from Ford, but still costing me a bit. I'm thinking I may have had the same issue, as breakdown man discovered a lack of oil, will be demanding full autopsy from Ford as to what issue is,
Factory rings gap too tight for persistent high power use, expanded with the heat which makes them put pressure on the cylinder wall and it’s a vicious cycle of increased heat from there until the cylinder is badly scored and the ringlands disintegrate
@@elliotthale1835 true but the piston didn't look melted either, it was cracked. When the rings expand they push out into the cylinders and when they can go no further they buckle in the lands, and the strength of expanding metal is easily enough to wreck the piston. Depends on the alloy but the pressure can be thousands of psi, think railway tracks buckling in a summer heatwave
yup, I called it lol melted a hole in it, not the first time that's happened on this engine. I sent you the Ford 1.6 Ecoboost repair manual, give her a look, it might help you stumble through like it has me
Steve , Examine the piston crown for any detonation signs, wasn’t obvious in the video. If there’s nothing I’m thinking maybe there was a hotspot on that section of the crown, carbon build possibly. Add that hotspot and a weak or damaged piston to your higher boost tuned engine, it looks to me like that section of the crown failed, maybe blow by causing a heat build up, sort of matches the burnt look of that area. Also check the bore above the piston, if the crown came apart while running those pieces will have marked the bore, but from her it appears the damage is below the piston. Which in my head supports a blow by, heated , det combination destroying the skirt. Good video, and good luck getting the new engine done. All the best.
Hi Steve, I was so waiting for you to say at the end of the video it's going "In The Bin!" 😎 that would have be so funny, don't know if you watch Mighty Car Mods but well done on all the hard work. I am a diyer myself.
Another great video. Regarding the turbo my experience with popped motors and turbo is the metal fragments in the oil go through the turbo bearings and destroy them. Rarely will a bit of ring land make ot past the valves and smash the exhaust wheel.
in my opinion for some reason №1 leaned out and started to melt, then as soon as the material got softer the high pressure of the combustion blew past the top of the piston and broke it down. Good that you reacted fast and stopped pushing otherwise it could be a catastrofic faiIure with hole on the block etc and everything mangled. I still think this power level is the top the engine can handle in standard form and i still think new sleeves and pistons can be put in it which would open it up for more power while safe at the same time. But who knows what's ur next plans, maybe something even better :)
Great job pulling that engine out. I never considered using a pully on some timber beams before. Will have to build something up and give that a go I think for when I swap mine out.
Replaced mine this week too and i can tell you setting timeing on those is a nightmare have done it 2 times now First when i blew a hole in Zylinder 4 and when i replaced the engine fully Both times check engine light came on and i needed to get the car to ford Because of the tools from amazon i got
Fatigue failure of the piston body, nothing left to support the piston rings so they escaped. There probably was a crack in the piston and the enhanced HP accelerated the failure. You could rebuild that engine.
Very unfortunate Steve. Im no mechanic but looking at the piston I would say there has been a hotspot within the combustion chamber perhaps because of a blockage in the cooling channel. causing uneven cooling. maybe why the other chamber has a crack in it it too? insufficient or old coolant over winter causing freezing and expansion? just some thoughts
Could be a couple of things ,it could have started with a crack in that piston then the broke up under load, or just started with a broken ring. You need the other 3 out to compare 👍
Nice little video to wake up to! Good job getting it stripped down Steve, we all knew it but we all had to see it! 😂😂 looking forward to the replacement engine install! 👌🏻
Steve how about a few pit props under the garage roof next time ? PS My uncle used to work on his back knocking our pit props and listening to the roof creak.
That piston has got very hot for some reason causing metal distortion and failure. may be worth checking the others to see if they have the same heat damage, could have been caused by a fuelling issue, you would need to confirm this before replacing the engine, otherwise could happen again to the new engine.
Dont do anything with the engine apart from put it to one side and save for the future. Everything on the engine thats damaged will get machined away and replaced if you decide to go for a big build so its perfectly useable. Try not to damage the faces etc and good luck with the build👍
wow you done a good job on that old engine.it did you well around castle coombe.look forward to see how the new engine compares when it up to doing a track day
sad to see it that way m8..as for a DIY'ER..your commitment and motivation is 2nd to none..complex little lumps aren't they..as I said about cracked head liners all Ford's had this recall..but ..more concerned for yours Steve..I'm no mechanic and that piston looks mad m8..I cud be pissing in the wind but oil starvation.?? Looks burnt at the top..that's my way of thinking there..I'm gonna do a pray for the turbo..
You need to get a decent engine hoist . With them kind of cars i used to disconnect the steering and leg top mounts and lift the shell off the lot. As for the loom leave it on the engine and disconnect it from the bay.
Great vid Steve. I’m no expert but I would say thats temp related, ring failure led to the piston going. I spose it could be rebuilt but as you said, get another motor. Well done on the strip down
At least your turbo is okay. This is most likely down to the tune you think? I’ve heard about a few fiestas up to 350hp on a stock engine being fine for years.
Is the block really that bad, have you got a straight edge and feeler guage to check it's not warped. Just thinking you could have that bore decked and stick a new piston in
You are a mechanic steve very knowledgeable.. It got to hot!.. more than lickly head gasket gone, water mixes with oil in no1 cylinder heats up hotter than hell melted off piston ring, I melted a piston rod clean off on my old Escort mk4 Rs due to trying to keep with porsche Carrera lol, I managed to rebuild it my self head skimmed new gaskets second hand piston new rings, and shells, bearings.. ready to fight another day. I've got to do my timing belt soon on my Mk7 st, I'd like to see you make video for some pointers. 👍🏼
My peron stage 2 went bang a few week ago, but it was cylinder 4 what detonated, had very little compression in cylinder 4 and the walls was scorched. Interesting to see yours was cylinder 1
Told you so :( So many cases of melted pistons… That kept me from tuning my Focus 1.6 Ecoboost. Prehaps that cilinder went lean, which made the piston melt.
@@steeldevil98 why? Loads of us have tuned st's and not a problem. I trash mine on the nurburgring every month and use it as a daily. 80000 miles and still not a problem. If it was the piston that was running to lean and melted it's possible the tune wasn't good or injectors couldn't handle it. And seeing cylinder 4 was cracked i think it was running lean on all the pistons and number 1 just gave up first. And tuning a 1.6 4 cyl and give it 300+ hp without modifiying the engine is always a risk.
@@TheTechnoaddict yep good tuning is very important for Ecoboost engines. Friend of mine has a 300hp stage 2 Focus ST3 (by BR Performance), running strong even after 50k tuned
Nice content Steve thank you👍. When things in life go wrong i try to focus on the positive. Things happen for a reason maybe the next lap of the track if the engine blow could of been a disaster?? Keep ya chin up Steve you will be back behind Yobo's wheel soon😉👍👍👍.
I'd say that the oil has ignited with the fuel under compression causing super heating in the edge of the piston allowing it to become malleable and deformation is the result 🤷♂️
I think.... Pistons and rods etc are prone to a certain amount of stretch when in use pumping up and down at 1000s of rpm. I think the added power has just pushed the piston beyond its limit and over a short time has heated up and failed. If the bore is still smooth with no damage that may rule out that's come into hard contact causing it. Discuss......
@@Sparkplugsteve thank god the turbo was undamaged. The face of the piston looked ok and all the damage went straight down. In your case that's a good thing as you can reuse your turbo and swap the engine. If you were planning to resuse the engine you'd have to have everything under the pistons inspected. Cyl 4 bore was cracked anyway but you see what I mean.
Steve to be honest I expected much more carnage I'm not sure if I'm disappointed or not either way good luck putting the new engine in and getting it running
It looks like pre-detonation damage. I'm just happy the turbo still looks good mate! Too much boost, too much advanced timing, and probably it was running slightly lean on the AFR. The cylinder temps will have got too hot and caused pre-detonation and then the cylinder has just gone. Also with it getting quite hot that's why the cylinder lining will have started expanding as seen in the cavity with it looking like it's closed. It's what the cavities are for in between the cylinders to relieve the pressure of the cylinders expanding when they warm up and obviously contract as they cool down. But if they get too hot it can cause them to expand too much and then it doesn't contract back as much when it cools. Makes me also think though has the safety been mapped out? The ECU should start retarding the timing when it detects knock and also reduce the AFR when temps get too high. More fuel to cool.
@@kd2833 You can upgrade the coolant rad which would significantly help with this. However, I think due to age of this specific engine and the mapping put on it where it to me sounds like it's had certain safety protocols have been mapped out wouldn't prevent this from happening again. It would only delay it.
i was waiting for that whole carport to come crashing down
Haha yeah I was the same.
Thought exactly the same
Who else Is up enjoying some spark plug Steve? 😅
I was just about to go to sleep but I love to see blown up engines.
@@warwickscram5925 if it’s someone else’s I don’t mind 🤣
I’m here watching
Why did the engine let
Go
Too much boost dodgy tune?
He's a genuine petrolhead just like the rest of us ..it's like someone has died in the family!! Just think of that m egane m8..you was all over him like a rash..that's how quick Steve's car was..Fast Fords..Steve best of luck with rebuild fella110%.☆
Yea that engine is toast 👌
05:17 "Everything on it is just awkward" - my thoughts exactly of Fords! Then I got a BMW and found out what awkward really means. Keep up the good work Steve!
I think bmw start the design process from the common parts that need replacing and build a car around them - with plenty of plastic clips that snap off
@@Stop..carry-on Yep, and every clip is a different design.
try a mk1 TT. the factory techs must have the hands of 5 year olds
This is why I have a suzuki swift/cultus :"D cheap and idiots can work on it as well (including myself).
"I'm just a diy mechanic"!. The dept of your videos and the stuff you do go's beyond what most mechanics know about cars! The only difference is they have a computer that says wich bolt to take out in the right order😁. Coffee and this in the morning is just perfect!
Could make a nice coffee table out of the old block Steve!
Nice to see it apart and confirmed the rings are reason. A few of us said it was the rings. no speculation as to why but I have a suspicion. I’ll be glued for the next one Steve.
Hi Steve , my theory to the problem lays in the block or the serviceability of the head gasket. Situation you have is ,the engine had wear before you started using it for track. Now I haven’t followed many of your videos but I hazard a guess that with that flash turbo its above standard tune and running higher boost / power. The more performance you run the less reliability you will have . I don’t see there was anything wrong with the the tune of the engine as everything was running fine, it’s not detonation as this happens within the combustion chamber and there’s no damage to the face of the piston. You noticed a crack in the wall of cylinder 4 liner that is your clue . compression has squeezed passed the liner either through the head gasket or coolant gallery. Possibly in turn this may have caused a air lock and a coolant restriction in the engine, when this happens coolant doesn’t flow as it should and temperature rises rapidly causing hot spots on the cylinder walls. for it to damage rings and ring lands to fail . It can be repaired but as you guess it’s just as cheap to slap in another engine and have more fun 🤩
My kind of DIYer with a whole front end dismantled 🍻
I thought that was what had happened, massive amount of work involved to get to the piston, you need to find out the cause otherwise it will kill your replacement engine as well, probably down to detonation/tune .... best of luck with it Steve 👍
Not enough ring gap for the cylinder pressure (boost). Absolutely text book failure.
Thanks so much Steve for taking the time to strip the engine to see what the failure was even though like you say the piston rings from cylinder 1 have dis-integrated. Also don't explain to your followers about your skill level as you should give yourself credit as you are willing to give anything a go and are very competent.
Great video Steve, gone are the days you carry a box of spanners in the boot in case you break down while out. The modern engine is so complicated now. Your doing far better than i would
Ring gap was to small like I said in your last video.
Rings expanded to much created to much heat up and down the bore.
What can prevent that ?
Yo
@@kd2833 what can prevent that? Either better cooling ( which night not help ya with too much boost ) or file down the ring gap. In burgerland engines get granaded all the time because of 200 shot leans the engine out gets real hot closes the gap and breaks the piston.
Hi Steve, I know it is a sad subject, but ironically I think this is one of your best videos
Keep safe
Thanks Phil 😁
ALLOE YOO TOOB
Good luck with the rebuild Steve, good to see you having a go yourself.
Ps. I love the sound of the rain hitting your car port 😍👌🏼
Hey thanks Adam and good luck with the garage build. Iv been watching 😁 not at all jealous lol
The joys of chasing power😁upwards and onwards Steve👍😁
Everyday we learn something new is a good day. I know more than I did before I watched this. Thank you!
Called it. It's potentially caused by pre-ignition/detonation. Either too much timing, incorrect fuelling and even a hot spot from carbon or tiny bit of damage to the piston. That engine should also be rebuildable with liners and pistons unless it really was cooked and is warped. You ideally need to find a cause otherwise it's likely to happen again 😔
I wouldnt say its detonation. No det marks on the top of the piston. Piston looks quite healthy aprt from the damage to the side. Looks like the liners have shifted and worn the edge off the piston
@@danf3576 It's difficult to tell without looking in person - I have seen it where the evidence is "removed" by a hole being blown down the side of the piston.
I have had a think since I first watched the video (it was on a tablet, I had another look on my laptop, so it is clearer), and there are a couple of things that come to mind or stand out.
I agree that the liners have most likely shifted.
On turbo cars with a higher boost (I'm sure he said he's had a tune with the boost increased?), the rings are usually gapped wider as they expand more - rings with standard gaps can close up and cause damage like this.
If you look on the top of the No 1 liner, the carbon build-up looks like there was potentially a head gasket failure. This would tie in with the liners shifting. There is also part of the piston crown that is clean of carbon. This can happen when the coolant gets in the cylinder.
Again, if the boost has been increased I'm also wondering if the head bolts stretched and the head lifted under heavy boost - that would certainly help cause the liners to shift.
To be honest, there are a few things that could have happened and it's hard to tell from an armchair.
Only detonation/knocking/pre ignition can damage the ring lands.
@@FastLifeVlog well thats not true, ive had the tip of a sparkplug fail and jam up a piston
@@danf3576 here spark plug was fine so ...
Great job and I'm glad that all the damage seems to have occurred below the piston crown and the turbo didn't get damaged (hopefully). I can't believe how much stuff there is to strip down just to get the head off of a modern engine !
Thanks Steve Relaxing vid. Teardown and rain.
I think it’s fair to say Steve ... that car keeps u busy
Certainly looks like it's been hot in no.1 ring land failure is common issue with heat. Without logging afr we don't know what the ratio was but I bet it would help running it a few points richer to help with cylinder temps. Perhaps when you get the new engine filling down the ring gap a few thou to help prevent the rings butting up again.
Cracking video, good to see you still smiling 😀 can’t wait to see the rebuild and you back on the track 🚙
Great video Steve, very informative. There is nothing like actually doing the post mortem.
Unlucky dude hope you get it sorted and back up and running asap I thought mine was a gonner when I blew my head gasket at cadwell Park back in November last year.
Maybe on the new engine run a different type of coolant and run your fan on when you are on track.
I also think you need to port your engine it will help with the engine gases.good video best of lucky
John Deere cool gard, they run it mini migilia race cars.
Hope you enjoyed your cuppa well deserved
Steve, Ford didn't bring the sleeve all the way to the top of the block. It ends just below the Head mating surface. that coolant passage between the cylinders makes for a thin spot that flexes and deforms under heat and stress. You said in the video that there was a little bit of movement right where cylinder 1 and 2 meet. This is a common problem. You can get the Mountune supported block or you can look at a couple of other options who are re-sleeving the block completely. That is probably why there was a clean spot above the failed area on piston one.
J
Looks like there was too much boost and too little fuel and the ignition was too high to me but it might be worth investing in some forged pistons when rebuilding the engine
Life ain't so bad, it's just a car and bits can be replaced. I hope you had some good tea Steve, all the best to you and the family.
Your exactly right. Iv got a good life and family and it's just a car. Thank👍
Great attitude Steve, go in have shower then go shopping for some tea and forget about it 👍
Good luck with new engine
Great video Steve
Well at least we know those who diagnosed a ringland failure were correct.
The mark on the piston looks like it's got very hot, surprised there was no damage to the bore.
Whats also concerning is the crack in piston 4, there's no saying this wasn't done before the piston failure and the engine wasn't showing any signs of a crack, I'm not sure as said if adding shims to the liners would solve this as you'd then be comprising the cooling between the bores and as the cut out isn't the full width like the 5 pot volvo engine would it really stop a crack from forming
Dont know much about those engines but id say the extra power was just a bit too much for that piston probably not helped by too much heat.
Hope you get it sorted and it doesnt cost you too much money.
To say you’re not a mechanic you’re very knowledgeable, I’ve been looking for a vacuum leak for days on my Fiesta but scared to even take anything apart 🤣
Well done getting it apart, interesting to see the results.
One step closer to having it back one the track 👍
That engine was definitely suffering detonation at high rpm. The new engine will suffer the same fate if the cause isn't rectified. If the bore is ok that could go again with a new piston but ford don't quote any torque settings for the bottom end. Hope you get it sorted.
Nice Video Steve this has just happened to my son’s ST180 so when i get back to the UK from work i have to strip and rebuild his engine and this video has gave me a good few tip’s.
Sad news hope you get it sorted and thanks.
Excited for more videos from you Steve, this is really interesting!
Just found this video, and I feel your pain. My Focus ST also suffered engine failure, 5 weeks after warranty expired. Managed to bet a goodwill gesture from Ford, but still costing me a bit. I'm thinking I may have had the same issue, as breakdown man discovered a lack of oil, will be demanding full autopsy from Ford as to what issue is,
"it's quite dramatic when an engine blows", just shows how amazing modern engineering is!
is a forged one going in?
No standard.
Factory rings gap too tight for persistent high power use, expanded with the heat which makes them put pressure on the cylinder wall and it’s a vicious cycle of increased heat from there until the cylinder is badly scored and the ringlands disintegrate
I too suspect ring gaps, just a bit too tight for the extra boost/heat
The walls didn't look scored, but I agree when chasing power small things like ring gap are forgotten.
@@elliotthale1835 true but the piston didn't look melted either, it was cracked. When the rings expand they push out into the cylinders and when they can go no further they buckle in the lands, and the strength of expanding metal is easily enough to wreck the piston. Depends on the alloy but the pressure can be thousands of psi, think railway tracks buckling in a summer heatwave
yup, I called it lol melted a hole in it, not the first time that's happened on this engine. I sent you the Ford 1.6 Ecoboost repair manual, give her a look, it might help you stumble through like it has me
Steve , Examine the piston crown for any detonation signs, wasn’t obvious in the video. If there’s nothing I’m thinking maybe there was a hotspot on that section of the crown, carbon build possibly. Add that hotspot and a weak or damaged piston to your higher boost tuned engine, it looks to me like that section of the crown failed, maybe blow by causing a heat build up, sort of matches the burnt look of that area. Also check the bore above the piston, if the crown came apart while running those pieces will have marked the bore, but from her it appears the damage is below the piston. Which in my head supports a blow by, heated , det combination destroying the skirt. Good video, and good luck getting the new engine done. All the best.
Looks like that piston has got far to hot for whatever reason
Hi Steve, I was so waiting for you to say at the end of the video it's going "In The Bin!" 😎 that would have be so funny, don't know if you watch Mighty Car Mods but well done on all the hard work. I am a diyer myself.
Haha yes I do watch them.
Aaahhhh, the Welsh engine hoist support beams. Keeping a smile on my face just after my knee op................
Another great video. Regarding the turbo my experience with popped motors and turbo is the metal fragments in the oil go through the turbo bearings and destroy them. Rarely will a bit of ring land make ot past the valves and smash the exhaust wheel.
in my opinion for some reason №1 leaned out and started to melt, then as soon as the material got softer the high pressure of the combustion blew past the top of the piston and broke it down. Good that you reacted fast and stopped pushing otherwise it could be a catastrofic faiIure with hole on the block etc and everything mangled. I still think this power level is the top the engine can handle in standard form and i still think new sleeves and pistons can be put in it which would open it up for more power while safe at the same time. But who knows what's ur next plans, maybe something even better :)
Steve I’m almost certain yobo only needed an oil change to get rid of the little chunks of joy 🤷🏼♂️🥴
I’m sure you can use the 1.5 closed deck block from a Cmax with 16v head from the st180
Looks like its been knocking to me. When the new engine goes in monitor the afr readings. Ideally it wants checking with a knock monitor too
Not enough fuel on map, That engine is not a loss steve plus would make good content rebuilding it
I changed a turbo on my driveway with a friend easy good cars to take apart and rebuild
Nice one. Can't beat a bit of forensic analysis
Great job pulling that engine out. I never considered using a pully on some timber beams before. Will have to build something up and give that a go I think for when I swap mine out.
Replaced mine this week too and i can tell you setting timeing on those is a nightmare have done it 2 times now
First when i blew a hole in Zylinder 4 and when i replaced the engine fully
Both times check engine light came on and i needed to get the car to ford
Because of the tools from amazon i got
Fatigue failure of the piston body, nothing left to support the piston rings so they escaped. There probably was a crack in the piston and the enhanced HP accelerated the failure. You could rebuild that engine.
Someone can use the short block to get ductile liners fitted. Completely salvageable. Not a complete loss like Steve's making it sound.
Stay positive and keep going. Thanks
Very unfortunate Steve. Im no mechanic but looking at the piston I would say there has been a hotspot within the combustion chamber perhaps because of a blockage in the cooling channel. causing uneven cooling. maybe why the other chamber has a crack in it it too? insufficient or old coolant over winter causing freezing and expansion? just some thoughts
Easy repair, new piston and rings and fit it all back together. Flush the whole bottom end to wash out any fragments.
What about the crack on cylinder 4? 😬
You give us all hope!
Could be a couple of things ,it could have started with a crack in that piston then the broke up under load, or just started with a broken ring. You need the other 3 out to compare 👍
Nice little video to wake up to! Good job getting it stripped down Steve, we all knew it but we all had to see it! 😂😂 looking forward to the replacement engine install! 👌🏻
Scary but fascinating amount of Piston ring on that sump bung steve
Ring gap too small or pre ignition..Not sure about the crack in number 4.. Maybe pre ignition again.
Steve how about a few pit props under the garage roof next time ? PS My uncle used to work on his back knocking our pit props and listening to the roof creak.
Keep positive Steve you’ll have it back on the road in no time 💪🏻💪🏻
Great vid Steve! Good to see it stripped down
That piston has got very hot for some reason causing metal distortion and failure. may be worth checking the others to see if they have the same heat damage, could have been caused by a fuelling issue, you would need to confirm this before replacing the engine, otherwise could happen again to the new engine.
Dont do anything with the engine apart from put it to one side and save for the future. Everything on the engine thats damaged will get machined away and replaced if you decide to go for a big build so its perfectly useable. Try not to damage the faces etc and good luck with the build👍
🤔🤔 was ok then new turbo then remap 🤔🤔 guess some thing wasn't right in the tune
wow you done a good job on that old engine.it did you well around castle coombe.look forward to see how the new engine compares when it up to doing a track day
Keep up the good work n vids Steve. Can’t wait to see this back up and running.
sad to see it that way m8..as for a DIY'ER..your commitment and motivation is 2nd to none..complex little lumps aren't they..as I said about cracked head liners all Ford's had this recall..but ..more concerned for yours Steve..I'm no mechanic and that piston looks mad m8..I cud be pissing in the wind but oil starvation.?? Looks burnt at the top..that's my way of thinking there..I'm gonna do a pray for the turbo..
You need to get a decent engine hoist . With them kind of cars i used to disconnect the steering and leg top mounts and lift the shell off the lot. As for the loom leave it on the engine and disconnect it from the bay.
Well done sir must heartbreaking to see that piston keep up good work.👍👍👍
Heads off it so it be worth getting it gas flowed and open up the ports ?? Or even practice on a die grinder and open the ports up ??
Great vid Steve. I’m no expert but I would say thats temp related, ring failure led to the piston going. I spose it could be rebuilt but as you said, get another motor. Well done on the strip down
At least your turbo is okay. This is most likely down to the tune you think? I’ve heard about a few fiestas up to 350hp on a stock engine being fine for years.
Is the block really that bad, have you got a straight edge and feeler guage to check it's not warped. Just thinking you could have that bore decked and stick a new piston in
Keep um coming Boyo👍
You are a mechanic steve very knowledgeable..
It got to hot!.. more than lickly head gasket gone, water mixes with oil in no1 cylinder heats up hotter than hell melted off piston ring, I melted a piston rod clean off on my old Escort mk4 Rs due to trying to keep with porsche Carrera lol, I managed to rebuild it my self head skimmed new gaskets second hand piston new rings, and shells, bearings.. ready to fight another day.
I've got to do my timing belt soon on my Mk7 st, I'd like to see you make video for some pointers. 👍🏼
My peron stage 2 went bang a few week ago, but it was cylinder 4 what detonated, had very little compression in cylinder 4 and the walls was scorched. Interesting to see yours was cylinder 1
What was the outcome mate ? Cos mines just done the same.
Simon message me on Instagram if you need some advice.
@@Sparkplugsteve done
Told you so :( So many cases of melted pistons… That kept me from tuning my Focus 1.6 Ecoboost. Prehaps that cilinder went lean, which made the piston melt.
Yep got to agree, all Ford's are now shite unfortunately 😑
@@steeldevil98 why? Loads of us have tuned st's and not a problem. I trash mine on the nurburgring every month and use it as a daily. 80000 miles and still not a problem. If it was the piston that was running to lean and melted it's possible the tune wasn't good or injectors couldn't handle it. And seeing cylinder 4 was cracked i think it was running lean on all the pistons and number 1 just gave up first. And tuning a 1.6 4 cyl and give it 300+ hp without modifiying the engine is always a risk.
@@TheTechnoaddict yep good tuning is very important for Ecoboost engines. Friend of mine has a 300hp stage 2 Focus ST3 (by BR Performance), running strong even after 50k tuned
Piston has not been melted. See the ring land.
@@FastLifeVlog it looks like it's melted and cracked. Signs of running lean.
I really enjoy watching engine stuff. I'm just not brave enough to to to take an engine apart
So easy to watch, keep them coming!!
Thanks for the great video again and especially when you share this experience.You have a big job up front again so good luck. 👍
Nice content Steve thank you👍.
When things in life go wrong i try to focus on the positive. Things happen for a reason maybe the next lap of the track if the engine blow could of been a disaster?? Keep ya chin up Steve you will be back behind Yobo's wheel soon😉👍👍👍.
I'd say that the oil has ignited with the fuel under compression causing super heating in the edge of the piston allowing it to become malleable and deformation is the result 🤷♂️
Love your stuff steve hopefully get it all sorted soon, love the vids and personality🏴
Great video and hope someone can answer the reason number piston failed in that area. Take care
Great video Steve my kind of diy mechanic love the content looking forward to the next one stay safe mate 👍 🍺
I think....
Pistons and rods etc are prone to a certain amount of stretch when in use pumping up and down at 1000s of rpm. I think the added power has just pushed the piston beyond its limit and over a short time has heated up and failed. If the bore is still smooth with no damage that may rule out that's come into hard contact causing it.
Discuss......
Yeh bore is fine. It's the ecoboom curse 😭
@@Sparkplugsteve thank god the turbo was undamaged. The face of the piston looked ok and all the damage went straight down. In your case that's a good thing as you can reuse your turbo and swap the engine.
If you were planning to resuse the engine you'd have to have everything under the pistons inspected. Cyl 4 bore was cracked anyway but you see what I mean.
Great job Steve
Steve to be honest I expected much more carnage I'm not sure if I'm disappointed or not either way good luck putting the new engine in and getting it running
lots of useful info gained there for the future i would say steve.will all help putting the new engine back in,great video by the way
Really enjoying the content, great work mate
Should make it into a coffee table 😂😂😂
It looks like pre-detonation damage. I'm just happy the turbo still looks good mate!
Too much boost, too much advanced timing, and probably it was running slightly lean on the AFR. The cylinder temps will have got too hot and caused pre-detonation and then the cylinder has just gone. Also with it getting quite hot that's why the cylinder lining will have started expanding as seen in the cavity with it looking like it's closed. It's what the cavities are for in between the cylinders to relieve the pressure of the cylinders expanding when they warm up and obviously contract as they cool down. But if they get too hot it can cause them to expand too much and then it doesn't contract back as much when it cools.
Makes me also think though has the safety been mapped out? The ECU should start retarding the timing when it detects knock and also reduce the AFR when temps get too high. More fuel to cool.
Wil a better rad fix this ?
@james wil a beter rad fix that ?
@@kd2833 You can upgrade the coolant rad which would significantly help with this. However, I think due to age of this specific engine and the mapping put on it where it to me sounds like it's had certain safety protocols have been mapped out wouldn't prevent this from happening again. It would only delay it.
@@James-ns6jm i wanne stage 3 mine when i get it buth only if its save els i go stage 2 instead