I dont know if you will ever see this comment. But i want you to know that you have given me so much confidence to do things in my home on my own. Your video's are so detailed and easy to follow, you add tips and always have the best information. Thanks to you I am remodeling my son's tub/shower combo to a walk in shower. So far I have ripped down the drywall to tile up to the ceiling. I have installed cement boards. I have to change the pvc plumbing to make the drain centered but I'm doing it because of you. Next I will follow your video's to complete the whole process. I would love to show you my progress pictures. THank you more than you know Josh!!
This is by far the most informative, straight forward construction channel on UA-cam, you deserve way more subscribers. Keep the videos coming, they’re much appreciated
I truly do appreciate that. This comment just made my day! My goal was to make videos to help people and you gave me confirmation of that. Thanks a lot for watching!
Out of all the videos I have watched with this type of the work. You are the most thorough and detailed. Great video!! After this video, I’m now ready to do my work.
I’ve watch many instructional videos in past but the way you explain everything is so clear and you explain step by step. All your videos are quality and the best diy instructional videos on UA-cam
Good video, good instruction as always a tip for you the most important personal protection equipment you can wear when cutting concrete board is a mask
@@TheExcellentLaborer I usually don't leave comments, but this one deserves 2 comments. Basically your UA-cam channel gave me the info I was seeking for cause I am rennovating our master bathroom. Thank you very much!
I learned more useful tips and info in the first 5 minutes of your tutorial than from watching hours of other UA-cam channels. This gives me the confidence to solo install my shower tile. Thank you! Edit to add, a month later: 1) You have to wear a mask if you are using any kind of power tool to cut the backer board. 2) Cut the board outside. 3) Do not allow any living thing to be nearby. That includes pets. 4) Research silica dust and backer board to understand why.
Very nicely done and very informative! Recently installed the cement board in my shower, and was very much similar to your method, except that I used an Alkali-Resistant Cement Board Tape instead of the mesh tape you used. Product is: FibaTape Alkali-Resistant 2 in. x 150 ft. Self-Adhesive Cement Board Tape Cheers! Subscribed!
Love these videos! I am in the process of refurbing my bathroom. Currently installing Durarock above the shower surround. I was not sure what to use for joint compound of sorts for this material. Now I do! Thanks Josh! For all you do and share on these videos!
Thanks BRT! I noticed you always use the alternative. Which seems like good stuff! If I was a full-time bathroom remodeler I would get more experience with it. Thanks for stopping by!
First off, so glad you explained the options of cutting the cement board. Even using hardi backer the same process of all three. I've seen guys not put the nylon tape over the joints and even using a latex silicone in between the joints as they put the boards up. ( What's your thought of the silicone usage?) Some time use should look at the schluter system. Having the ability to go over drywall products it's one advantage. Cost is one aspect but labor cost comparison is what to consider. First time using the schluter system was a bit of a challenge but as you do more, it gets easier. Great job Josh as always and the use of eye and ear protection along with a mask if using a circular saw. Who wants to breathe in that dust. 👍🏻
I feel like silicone would be a fine idea in the joints. Since I use the waterproofing and crack prevention coating I do not worry about it. I would like to use that system on the next shower just to get more familiar with it. Seems like everybody likes it. I would have to study up on it. It was windy outside that day so the dust was not in my face but yes a respirator would’ve been a good idea. Thanks David for watching and commenting as always. You are the man!
Found the video and product information which I saved. Yes, I've used aqua defense. Great product for sure. Always great responses as well from my friends and contractors. Of course we all usually have ideas that work better for each process, but like my Dad always said, "you have to start somewhere". Great man and I miss him even my father-in-law who was in the trades as well. 🙏🏻
Best videos ever for DIYer bathroom remodeling. 1 question: can i replace parts of the bathroom drywall outside the shower wet area with cement board? I need to replace some sections located at the bottom of the drywalls. I already finished tiling the shower walls and my shower looks fabulous thanks to your coaching.🙏🏼🙏🏼
Brotha you are the MF'n man for this video! We are at this very point of our bath/shower remodel and I have so much more confidence in getting it completed soon. Thank you for this man new SUB here!
I think you may be the only video I watched where liquid nails was used installing cement backer-boards…I do know that liquids nails will make it very difficult to remove boarding if necessary in the future. Could you explain your use of liquid nails?
The Durock installation instructions indicate the board should be shimmed 1/4 inch above the shower or tub flange. They also do not say to use construction adhesive to attach it to the wall. It's an unnecessary step. People say it gives the board more strength. However, your layer of thinset will provide the extra rigidity.
Thank you! I was wondering how important it is for the corner boards to be close? Our installer left a very large gap in the corners and I am wondering if this is going to cause issues later or if the mud fills it in?
Question, if i stop the cement board on top of the pan, then fill in with thinset from the top of the pan to the cement board..and if water got into the grout would it eventually start wicking water to the cement board? Please correct my ginking if im wrong, but if i stopped the cement board at the top of the pan and didnt fill it in with thinset, but instead broguht the porcelain tile down to the edge of the pan and caulked, wouldnt water have less of a chance to wick to the cement board???
There's so many different answers to this, and it seems that there's no general consensus to this question. Every tile guy will have a different answer.
How deep in the pan should the cement board be? My tile-redi pan does not have a lip around the perimeter....should the cement board go to the floor? Maybe leave a 1/4-5/16" gap at the floor above the tile? Thanks!
Great vid.. when measuring around the bathroom window do you measure to to the very edge of the window frame or a bit beyond .. could you explain how to properly messure
Really should use alkali-resistant mesh tape in showers/ baths. That stuff will absolutely fail in moist environments. Also the kind of thinset matters in moist environments. You should use ANSI A118.1. 👍
thank you. this will come in handy. I have the same shower pan except mine is 36 x 36. for laying down the 1st row of tile. how do i deal with the rounded edge at the front near the wall on both the right and left sides? Do I have trim my tile with a grinder?
I watch you and I do agree with everything you said about hanging durock in your shower but my question is can I use the same durock that you used in your shower as a siding on the outside walls ?
Hi Josh, your videos are incredibly helpful. I am replacing tile in our guest bath. It’s is a standard bath tub/shower. I have 2 questions for you. I have installed the cement board and used the thin set to patch seams and screws. I feel like the thin set needs to be sanded, so how smooth or rigid can the surface be without causing a problem? Also, the cement board is about 1/8” to 1/4” shallow at the seam with the drywall where the bullnose tile will be installed. Is this a problem and how do you fix?
Unless the thinset is protruding up over an 1/8 inch I would not worry about trying to sand down where you patch the screwholes because when you install the tile thinset is thicker than then we’ll cover it up. I would fill in the area you were talking about that is shallow with sunset before installing your bullnose. I hope that helps!
Thank you. The shallow seam runs up the entire height of the wall, about 6’ from the top of the tub. If I understand, you are saying I should fill that and feather it toward the shallow side with thin set before water proofing with Aqua defense? I suspect a thicker layer of mortar can be used when setting the tile as well? Just trying to figure the best route here. Thanks again!
When you mud a pan do you put backer board on before the pan to about 1/2 inch above the OSB floor? or float it slightly above thel mud pan after its done? the mud floor is on roof paper and chicken wire (no Oatey pvc liner)
I am tiling a 12 in tall section above a shower wall that runs even with the bottom of the cement board, would I treat it like the shower pan and thinset and tape where the bottom of the cement board meets the top of the shower wall?
if your not using a fiberglass shower pan, but making your own pan how far up from the pan should the cement board be, I was told never put your board in the pan or touch the pan. I'm also going to use USG Fiberock Tile Backboard instead of cement board do I cut it the same way?
My black plastic escutcheon for the shower valve sticks out about 1/2” from the cement board. will that be a problem? or will the body of the shower handle cover that up?
I am installing a 30x60 shower that I plan to tile around afterwards. Two of my walls are framed in, and I plan to use cement board on those. My third wall has two challenges. It has a window that I'll be working around and its made of block. The block was badly gouged and in places has holes knocked in it by a previous renovation. Is there a good way to lay thin cement board on that wall as well so I have a good surface to attach my tile to? My first thought was just to tap con it into place and then carry on with the rest of the job, but I'd rather not have to go back and redo it if I'm guessing wrong.
The back wall on my shower is a block wall. You should use furring strips on the block wall, and then from there, you can hang your cement board. Also I would recommend adding 3/4 inch foam insulation in between the furring strips. You can use a little liquid nail on the backs of the foam board to keep it in place.
Josh I have a question... when the cement board is touching the shower pan.... how do you water proof it so no water gets to the cement board? I see one video where you put mortar down there. Thanks
When you use the tape rule and pencil to scribe a long line just hook the tip of the rule on the lip of what you are measuring and put the pencil on the measurement you want. Way more exact than your way. Try it you will see what I mean.
How much gap can you get away with before trying to shim the wall board? I running about a 3/16 gap between stud face and the cement board and what is the preferred method of shimming Reply
You can either use shims or you can wet shim. That's when you use thinset where your gap is, and then you can press your backer board into the thinset. Don't sink your screws just yet where the thinset is. Start your screw but before completely securing it, let the thinset cure. Afterwards you can tighten the screw. If you tighten it first, you'll just mush the thinset. Hope this helps a little.
I see a lot of guys using Ridgid tools on UA-cam, can you tell me why you're using ridgid tools? I'm a mechanic and I use Milwaukee tools at work, but I'm planning on doing a whole house remodel. I've started buying Milwaukee carpenter tools because that's they type of batteries that I already have and use on a daily basis. Is the warranty on Ridgid tools better? Please tell me why you're using Ridgid tools and maybe I might switch over.
Rigid might be sending tools to UA-cam contractors for free as easy product placement or will actually pay some of them to only use rigid if the channel is big enough. I haven't used much rigid tools so can't offer much on how good they are, but most tools are basically up to you about what feels best in your hand. Every company has different weights, sizes, shapes, volumes, vibration levels, and angles that they make slightly different to try and make theirs a little 'better' than others. I have Dewalt drills but am looking at switching to either Makita's or Milwaukee's since Milwaukee has seemed to really step up their game lately, but have always liked Makita. Most important thing is getting a set of drills that feel good in your hands, how heavy they are compared to others can matter when you're working over your head, it's weird how holding a 4 or 5 pound drill over your head when hanging drywall on a ceiling can make on your shoulders so light drills are nice. If you already have batteries and you like your drills maybe avoid switching brands since batteries are expensive, maybe just get a new set for your house and have your old ones for the shop. See if you can try different brands at the store, you might not like how loud the impacts are or the vibration, or the weight might be different than what you're used too. In the end most tools do the exact same thing as the other brands, just have a different look and feel so find what you like most
My cement board on the side where the shower faucet is doesn't end in a stud do I add 1 for it to end on or continue over out side of the shower area to meet the next stud
When I install the drywall before the cement board I always place a stud for it to break at that area. I would recommend you do the same so your cement board has a nailer. If you do not want to do that you can try to add blocking to give a place for the cement board to end at. I hope that helps!
Never once taped and mudded joints on cement board. Only ever used hardiebacker. Whats the point of thin setting the joints? Wont that happen when the tile is installed?
When you tape the joints fit makes a wall flat at the beveled areas. For two, you have to waterproof the cement board and you must fill the cracks like shown in the video. Hope that helps!
It’s to prevent cracks. It makes the area you’re tiling one continuous plane instead of multiple planes. Do not use regular drywall mesh tape because it will break down.
I dont know if you will ever see this comment. But i want you to know that you have given me so much confidence to do things in my home on my own. Your video's are so detailed and easy to follow, you add tips and always have the best information. Thanks to you I am remodeling my son's tub/shower combo to a walk in shower. So far I have ripped down the drywall to tile up to the ceiling. I have installed cement boards. I have to change the pvc plumbing to make the drain centered but I'm doing it because of you. Next I will follow your video's to complete the whole process. I would love to show you my progress pictures. THank you more than you know Josh!!
The way diy videos should be
Thank you Billy!
Best video on UA-cam for DIY cement board install
This is by far the most informative, straight forward construction channel on UA-cam, you deserve way more subscribers. Keep the videos coming, they’re much appreciated
I truly do appreciate that. This comment just made my day! My goal was to make videos to help people and you gave me confirmation of that. Thanks a lot for watching!
Dude! The nail trick saved my back!
Out of all the videos I have watched with this type of the work. You are the most thorough and detailed. Great video!! After this video, I’m now ready to do my work.
The Best teacher,
I’ve watch many instructional videos in past but the way you explain everything is so clear and you explain step by step. All your videos are quality and the best diy instructional videos on UA-cam
Good video, good instruction as always
a tip for you the most important personal protection equipment you can wear when cutting concrete board is a mask
Instructions given are clear and easy to understand. Good teacher!
Thank you that means a lot to me. Take care!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I usually don't leave comments, but this one deserves 2 comments. Basically your UA-cam channel gave me the info I was seeking for cause I am rennovating our master bathroom. Thank you very much!
I learned more useful tips and info in the first 5 minutes of your tutorial than from watching hours of other UA-cam channels. This gives me the confidence to solo install my shower tile. Thank you!
Edit to add, a month later: 1) You have to wear a mask if you are using any kind of power tool to cut the backer board. 2) Cut the board outside. 3) Do not allow any living thing to be nearby. That includes pets. 4) Research silica dust and backer board to understand why.
Very nicely done and very informative! Recently installed the cement board in my shower, and was very much similar to your method, except that I used an Alkali-Resistant Cement Board Tape instead of the mesh tape you used. Product is: FibaTape Alkali-Resistant 2 in. x 150 ft. Self-Adhesive Cement Board Tape
Cheers! Subscribed!
Love these videos! I am in the process of refurbing my bathroom. Currently installing Durarock above the shower surround. I was not sure what to use for joint compound of sorts for this material. Now I do! Thanks Josh! For all you do and share on these videos!
Another great video 👍 I personally haven’t used cement board in a few years 😆 I like the oscillating tool trick 👍
Thanks BRT! I noticed you always use the alternative. Which seems like good stuff! If I was a full-time bathroom remodeler I would get more experience with it. Thanks for stopping by!
Great instructional video with some very smart short cut methods, especially for those of us who work alone.
HI Josh. Thanks for the excellent tutorials! Would you please tell me why you started at the top and not at the bottom when placing the backer boards?
First off, so glad you explained the options of cutting the cement board. Even using hardi backer the same process of all three. I've seen guys not put the nylon tape over the joints and even using a latex silicone in between the joints as they put the boards up. ( What's your thought of the silicone usage?)
Some time use should look at the schluter system. Having the ability to go over drywall products it's one advantage. Cost is one aspect but labor cost comparison is what to consider. First time using the schluter system was a bit of a challenge but as you do more, it gets easier.
Great job Josh as always and the use of eye and ear protection along with a mask if using a circular saw. Who wants to breathe in that dust. 👍🏻
I feel like silicone would be a fine idea in the joints. Since I use the waterproofing and crack prevention coating I do not worry about it. I would like to use that system on the next shower just to get more familiar with it. Seems like everybody likes it. I would have to study up on it. It was windy outside that day so the dust was not in my face but yes a respirator would’ve been a good idea. Thanks David for watching and commenting as always. You are the man!
Found the video and product information which I saved. Yes, I've used aqua defense. Great product for sure.
Always great responses as well from my friends and contractors. Of course we all usually have ideas that work better for each process, but like my Dad always said, "you have to start somewhere".
Great man and I miss him even my father-in-law who was in the trades as well. 🙏🏻
Best videos ever for DIYer bathroom remodeling. 1 question: can i replace parts of the bathroom drywall outside the shower wet area with cement board?
I need to replace some sections located at the bottom of the drywalls. I already finished tiling the shower walls and my shower looks fabulous thanks to your coaching.🙏🏼🙏🏼
Sooooo gooood!!! Top 5 videos for this FOR SURE!! and I’ve watched almost all of UA-cam shower videos
The best video ever about installing cement board
U do e a great job in explaining the process. Great job
I appreciate that!
Congratulations
you did a fantastic job with this video
Thank you
Brotha you are the MF'n man for this video! We are at this very point of our bath/shower remodel and I have so much more confidence in getting it completed soon. Thank you for this man new SUB here!
Wow very well done 😊
Another great video, thanks
Thank you OTC! I’ll keep them posting. Thanks for stopping by!
Excellent tutorial!!!!
Thank you so much!
One of the best!!!
I think you may be the only video I watched where liquid nails was used installing cement backer-boards…I do know that liquids nails will make it very difficult to remove boarding if necessary in the future. Could you explain your use of liquid nails?
The Durock installation instructions indicate the board should be shimmed 1/4 inch above the shower or tub flange. They also do not say to use construction adhesive to attach it to the wall. It's an unnecessary step. People say it gives the board more strength. However, your layer of thinset will provide the extra rigidity.
I like your demonstration, and explanation.
Thank you! I’m glad you really enjoyed the video. Good luck with your project!
Love your instructional videos and.
Thanks Pete!
excellent God Bless you
Thank you Sim. Same to you!
Thanks for your knowledge!!!to share.....us....
I’m glad I can pass my knowledge on to you!
Good job bro 👋🙏🏻
Thanks a lot!
Great video. Your channel is really helpful to me.
Thanks Robert! I’m glad I can help!
This is awesome thank you
I appreciate that Melissa. You are welcome!
Great DIY video. Great job!
Some cement board instruction sheets recommend alkali resistant tape. I know Durock does..
Neat job Josh
Thank you Mohamed!
Love you man!
Good stuff brother 🤙
Thanks Todd!
Thank you! I was wondering how important it is for the corner boards to be close? Our installer left a very large gap in the corners and I am wondering if this is going to cause issues later or if the mud fills it in?
Any experience with densshield backer boards
Great video, how will cement board line up with a water resistant sheetrock on a flat wall?? Also rock the bathroom walls with green board?? Ty jimmy
great video
Question, if i stop the cement board on top of the pan, then fill in with thinset from the top of the pan to the cement board..and if water got into the grout would it eventually start wicking water to the cement board? Please correct my ginking if im wrong, but if i stopped the cement board at the top of the pan and didnt fill it in with thinset, but instead broguht the porcelain tile down to the edge of the pan and caulked, wouldnt water have less of a chance to wick to the cement board???
There's so many different answers to this, and it seems that there's no general consensus to this question. Every tile guy will have a different answer.
Do you need to seal cement board
Sir, your an excellent narrator and teacher, I HAVE A TEACHING CREDENTIAL YOUR DOING GOOD. TELL THEM WHAT YOU WANGTO DO AND SNOW THEM HOW TO DO IG…
Great video. Please wear lung protection when cutting cement board though.
Why didn't you use vapor barrier and green backer board?
I'm actually doing this today with a bathtub. Thanks for the tips. I am guessing 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch abone the pan lip before filling with mortar.
1/8” should be plenty. Good luck with your project!
Thanks!
Tell me you didn't use drywall fiber tape for the joints. It has to be alkali resistant fiber tape.
What is better.... having the cement board stop on top of the flange, or all the way down to the basin?
Do you put cement board on the ceiling of the shower? Or use regular or green drywall? Thanks.
How deep in the pan should the cement board be? My tile-redi pan does not have a lip around the perimeter....should the cement board go to the floor? Maybe leave a 1/4-5/16" gap at the floor above the tile? Thanks!
Excelentes videos.
You're doing great work, my friend, truly appreciate your skills. I wish you continued success. Thanks again for posting amazing content 👍👍
Do you have an install video for installing onto cinder block walls not stud walls?
Great vid.. when measuring around the bathroom window do you measure to to the very edge of the window frame or a bit beyond .. could you explain how to properly messure
Can u use green drywall instead of hardi board??
Really should use alkali-resistant mesh tape in showers/ baths. That stuff will absolutely fail in moist environments. Also the kind of thinset matters in moist environments. You should use ANSI A118.1. 👍
thank you. this will come in handy. I have the same shower pan except mine is 36 x 36. for laying down the 1st row of tile. how do i deal with the rounded edge at the front near the wall on both the right and left sides? Do I have trim my tile with a grinder?
I watch you and I do agree with everything you said about hanging durock in your shower but my question is can I use the same durock that you used in your shower as a siding on the outside walls ?
Yes, I did it , painted it few years ago and it's holding up with no problems.
What would be the best way to use cement board with schluter pan
Hi Josh, your videos are incredibly helpful. I am replacing tile in our guest bath. It’s is a standard bath tub/shower. I have 2 questions for you. I have installed the cement board and used the thin set to patch seams and screws. I feel like the thin set needs to be sanded, so how smooth or rigid can the surface be without causing a problem? Also, the cement board is about 1/8” to 1/4” shallow at the seam with the drywall where the bullnose tile will be installed. Is this a problem and how do you fix?
Unless the thinset is protruding up over an 1/8 inch I would not worry about trying to sand down where you patch the screwholes because when you install the tile thinset is thicker than then we’ll cover it up. I would fill in the area you were talking about that is shallow with sunset before installing your bullnose. I hope that helps!
Thank you. The shallow seam runs up the entire height of the wall, about 6’ from the top of the tub. If I understand, you are saying I should fill that and feather it toward the shallow side with thin set before water proofing with Aqua defense? I suspect a thicker layer of mortar can be used when setting the tile as well? Just trying to figure the best route here. Thanks again!
When you mud a pan do you put backer board on before the pan to about 1/2 inch above the OSB floor? or float it slightly above thel mud pan after its done? the mud floor is on roof paper and chicken wire (no Oatey pvc liner)
How would you rate the AquaDefense vs Kerdi system?? Pros or cons to each??
I am tiling a 12 in tall section above a shower wall that runs even with the bottom of the cement board, would I treat it like the shower pan and thinset and tape where the bottom of the cement board meets the top of the shower wall?
I used utility knife works great but blade gets dull pretty fast
Where is the vapor barrier for moistere?
if your not using a fiberglass shower pan, but making your own pan how far up from the pan should the cement board be, I was told never put your board in the pan or touch the pan. I'm also going to use USG Fiberock Tile Backboard instead of cement board do I cut it the same way?
1/8” gap should be plenty. Hope that helps!
If I am installing a slab marble in the shower, do I use this same cement board?
My black plastic escutcheon for the shower valve sticks out about 1/2” from the cement board. will that be a problem? or will the body of the shower handle cover that up?
❤
I am installing a 30x60 shower that I plan to tile around afterwards.
Two of my walls are framed in, and I plan to use cement board on those. My third wall has two challenges. It has a window that I'll be working around and its made of block. The block was badly gouged and in places has holes knocked in it by a previous renovation.
Is there a good way to lay thin cement board on that wall as well so I have a good surface to attach my tile to?
My first thought was just to tap con it into place and then carry on with the rest of the job, but I'd rather not have to go back and redo it if I'm guessing wrong.
The back wall on my shower is a block wall. You should use furring strips on the block wall, and then from there, you can hang your cement board. Also I would recommend adding 3/4 inch foam insulation in between the furring strips. You can use a little liquid nail on the backs of the foam board to keep it in place.
Josh I have a question... when the cement board is touching the shower pan.... how do you water proof it so no water gets to the cement board? I see one video where you put mortar down there. Thanks
When you use the tape rule and pencil to scribe a long line just hook the tip of the rule on the lip of what you are measuring and put the pencil on the measurement you want. Way more exact than your way. Try it you will see what I mean.
How much gap can you get away with before trying to shim the wall board? I running about a 3/16 gap between stud face and the cement board and what is the preferred method of shimming
Reply
You can either use shims or you can wet shim. That's when you use thinset where your gap is, and then you can press your backer board into the thinset. Don't sink your screws just yet where the thinset is. Start your screw but before completely securing it, let the thinset cure. Afterwards you can tighten the screw. If you tighten it first, you'll just mush the thinset. Hope this helps a little.
Do u samd any of mud that was applied to corners or where boards r butt together
I have the same question did you find out what you needed to do?Thanks!
Exelente explication thanks you
I'm from Boston MA
Is thinset going to stick to the shower pan side? I would worry it would separate after time.
It ain’t going nowhere, tile will be set over that.
Do you use any special tool for countersinking the screws?
He uses an impact driver.
I see a lot of guys using Ridgid tools on UA-cam, can you tell me why you're using ridgid tools? I'm a mechanic and I use Milwaukee tools at work, but I'm planning on doing a whole house remodel. I've started buying Milwaukee carpenter tools because that's they type of batteries that I already have and use on a daily basis. Is the warranty on Ridgid tools better? Please tell me why you're using Ridgid tools and maybe I might switch over.
Rigid might be sending tools to UA-cam contractors for free as easy product placement or will actually pay some of them to only use rigid if the channel is big enough. I haven't used much rigid tools so can't offer much on how good they are, but most tools are basically up to you about what feels best in your hand. Every company has different weights, sizes, shapes, volumes, vibration levels, and angles that they make slightly different to try and make theirs a little 'better' than others. I have Dewalt drills but am looking at switching to either Makita's or Milwaukee's since Milwaukee has seemed to really step up their game lately, but have always liked Makita. Most important thing is getting a set of drills that feel good in your hands, how heavy they are compared to others can matter when you're working over your head, it's weird how holding a 4 or 5 pound drill over your head when hanging drywall on a ceiling can make on your shoulders so light drills are nice.
If you already have batteries and you like your drills maybe avoid switching brands since batteries are expensive, maybe just get a new set for your house and have your old ones for the shop. See if you can try different brands at the store, you might not like how loud the impacts are or the vibration, or the weight might be different than what you're used too. In the end most tools do the exact same thing as the other brands, just have a different look and feel so find what you like most
Can anyone tell me why they use durock instead of drywall?
Do you have them for sale?
I want to start making courses soon!
I used 1|4 screws idk if that's ok
My cement board on the side where the shower faucet is doesn't end in a stud do I add 1 for it to end on or continue over out side of the shower area to meet the next stud
When I install the drywall before the cement board I always place a stud for it to break at that area. I would recommend you do the same so your cement board has a nailer. If you do not want to do that you can try to add blocking to give a place for the cement board to end at. I hope that helps!
You don't use black paper behind the backer
Never once taped and mudded joints on cement board. Only ever used hardiebacker. Whats the point of thin setting the joints? Wont that happen when the tile is installed?
When you tape the joints fit makes a wall flat at the beveled areas. For two, you have to waterproof the cement board and you must fill the cracks like shown in the video. Hope that helps!
It’s to prevent cracks. It makes the area you’re tiling one continuous plane instead of multiple planes. Do not use regular drywall mesh tape because it will break down.
Not in california
Cement dust
Local Code says put board over the bathtub lip and not on top of the lip. Nice video otherwise.
Ass
Cement shit board use dansheild
I bought the thinner flimsy one , can it still be used for the walls??
I only recommend using half inch cement board on walls. I hope that helps!