Thank you for the video. I just did this project today. it actually was easy. A lot of screws, and mostly plastic trim. And I only removed the left portion of the air intake hose, didn't even go near the air filter. it took me longer to get the wipers aligned.
I have this vehicle, same year, make and model with 140K miles. Is the fuel filter inside the high pressure fuel pump or is it inside the other fuel pump located inside the fuel tank? I'm wondering if I should change out the pump, even though there's no check engine light. There's a slight hesitation and I'm thinking it may be a clogged fuel filter. Injectors have been cleaned. Thanks!
From what I’m reading online, the fuel filter has a “lifetime” guarantee and is located within the fuel pump. I’m creeping up on 130k miles (10 years old) and thinking about just changing the fuel pump out to protect the engine.
The small cup, (tempet?), under the pump, was worn completely through the metal and the bob on the end of the spring was worn down almost to the spring. Can't find any info online about the cup itself. Also for a 2017 model, the screws are a T30, and you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool. Any ideas where to order the cup? Or reasons why it failed?
What all tools do you need for the job? The last two bolts by the High fuel pressure pump I could not get to is why I’m asking cuz I need this done it’s the only video that help me
Frankie Aponte I did a diagnosis and no codes popped up but it’s shutting off after 3 or 4 cranks or when I’m on a hill could it still be HPFP? I dnt want to buy the piece yet until I know for sure could it be the fuel pump ??
Great video! Thanks but the background music was a little annoying to me. I am a little hard of hearing so it was a little difficult for me to to understand you. You did an excellent job with the video thanks again.
My fuel pump on my 2013 escape to the left of the battey under a black rubber that i pulled back. It was eazy to get to . Got a new one from ebay for ninty dollers. Need to look at tthe way the hoses and plug in to the wire are at . They are not all the same. Match the looks to tthe new one or may not hook up right.
Just got this code but only after it warmed up. Suddenly shut down like it was out of gas. Scanned codes and P06A7, P0087 fuel rail/sys pressure too low P00C6 and P2227 Barometric press circuit range/performance. Restarted and died several times. No acceleration. Let it sit and everything is now fine. Am I missing something? What else can this be?
hello Bruce Hamilton, your vehicle has a problem with the return signals splice, perform the TSB 13-12-12 and repair the splice S123 and S178 , really easy to fix, you can call to ford service and ask if your car in on the recall list for this issue if not you will have to fixed or take to a professional to do it
@@DuartesAutoTipsandTricks I have a 2016, 2.0. After 3 weeks of trying to figure out what the problem is the solution is now found and I'm betting I won't be the only one with this issue. This wire issue is not the one in the TSB and not currently in a recall. This vehicle at approximately 43,000 mile produced the same symptoms as the TSB 13-12-12. Motor suddenly stalling, backfire sometimes, rough running, loss of power, etc. Wire had worn through the wire harness wrap and eventually one of the wires in the bundle atop the motor from chaffing on a post. This caused the PCM to throw numerous codes and disable critical safety systems. Random, erratic and unpredictable. Wire bundle aligned with the fuel rail begins at the driver side of the motor. At the point where it begins up come to the motor there is a post (aluminum). This wire was not sufficiently protected from chaffing The remainder of the wire is well secured and insulated but this point is literally and accident waiting to happen. This was very difficult to find as the problem as it was so intermittent. Not covered under the 5/100 K warranty and my dealer charged me $318.00 which I feel was good considering what it could have been. Not happy I had to pay at all but! In total I've spent over $600 getting this figured out and resolved. I like Ford cars and trucks but this is unacceptable. This last breakdown placed my family in great danger as there was no safe place to get off the road (70 MPH Interstate with little shoulder and merging state highway). This was the third time having to tow this vehicle for this. I will be making a report to NHTSA. I am certain others will experience this failure and I hope no one gets hurt. In my case it also disabled the restraint systems and airbags when it occurred.
Hello, what kind of symptoms was the car experiencing before you change that part? I have a 2013 ford escape se 1.6l turbo ecoboost and I've been experiencing stalling, bucking and now my engine light is on if your able to contact me somehow that would be great and muchly appreciated
Same vehicle. I have code P018B - low fuel pressure sensor failure. Is this sensor in the same area as the fuel pump you replace in this video? It seems to be very easy to access on some Fords, but I can't find anything about the location of the Fuel Pressure Sensor on this vehicle. My guess is that is due to it being so deep in the engine like in the video.
@@CiscoMedia76 I’m getting a u0256-00 code nothing with a p witch is a good thing but also could mean several other I don’t know what this code mean I have figuring out for days now what do you think?
@@CiscoMedia76 thank you for the help I’m still in need of help! That code says it’s a lost communication with front controls interface module 'a' or a Mac sensor! I’m confused which on is it I have changed all air flow !
@@SierraZara in the video that I linked for you, at the 3:15 timestamp, it shows that the code is related to the MAF sensor. (Mass Air Flow) You need to start there. Check all wiring and connectors associate with the MAF. Replace the sensor if necessary. If you do all that and are still throwing the same code, then you need to take it to a mechanic.
Was driving my ecoboost 2014 escape one day for about an hour, then parked it for 10 minutes, started and it died on me, acted like it was out of gas, no cel on dash, towed it to shop, next day it started, so it starts sometimes and others it won't, will only crank no start, what r the symptoms of the high press pump going out ?
So I got my high fuel pump replaced about 9 days ago because I was having an issue with my car hesitating to start after pumping gas. The very next day after leaving the shop my car drove about 10 miles and kept dying on me. Fast forward nine days later it’s still at the shop because they cannot figure out what’s wrong with it although it was running fine when I brought it to them other than that issue once I pump gas. Can you help me figure out what may be wrong please or offer some type of advice? It’s a 2014 Ford Escape Titanium. This is completely stressing me out
If te issue only occurs after pumping gas it's an issue with the evap line. The lines with green clips in this video is what needs replaced. It's a pain to replace
Here's my two cents, tighten to SNUG then leave it alone. Do not give it "A LITTLE EXTRA" once snug, you will be fine. I did this job two hours ago and I could have been done sooner if I didn't snap the bolt that hold down the actual pump. Yes I'm an idiot.
I am not sure what the book says but I assume an hour labor charge. It took me about 2hrs to do it the first time, which will be half that after I knew everything to do. So a shop should get it done within an hour.
i think 115 ft/lbs is way too much. my gut told me to stop but i gently kept going till i snapped a bolt. doh!!! that was with the wrench set at 100! still looking for the proper specs
You're absolutely correct. 115 ft/lbs of torque is way too much. But if you look at the video again, it's 115 lb-in of torque. 115 in-lb's of torque is around 9.5 ft-lbs. You have to pay attention to the details or you're gonna break stuff.
Thanks for the informative video. With the help of a Haynes manual and your video everything turned out great on my fuel pump replacement!
Thank you for the video. I just did this project today. it actually was easy. A lot of screws, and mostly plastic trim. And I only removed the left portion of the air intake hose, didn't even go near the air filter. it took me longer to get the wipers aligned.
Brian T i just got to do this pop up today any advice b4 i jump into it looks easy but nothing that easy
The wipers have alignment arrows.
I saw them my third time re-installing them.
Any recommendations on pump manufacture? Bosch or Ultra Power?
I have this vehicle, same year, make and model with 140K miles. Is the fuel filter inside the high pressure fuel pump or is it inside the other fuel pump located inside the fuel tank? I'm wondering if I should change out the pump, even though there's no check engine light. There's a slight hesitation and I'm thinking it may be a clogged fuel filter.
Injectors have been cleaned.
Thanks!
From what I’m reading online, the fuel filter has a “lifetime” guarantee and is located within the fuel pump. I’m creeping up on 130k miles (10 years old) and thinking about just changing the fuel pump out to protect the engine.
@5GrumpyOldWomen
I changed out the MAF sensor and that fixed the hesitation
The small cup, (tempet?), under the pump, was worn completely through the metal and the bob on the end of the spring was worn down almost to the spring. Can't find any info online about the cup itself. Also for a 2017 model, the screws are a T30, and you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool. Any ideas where to order the cup? Or reasons why it failed?
What all tools do you need for the job? The last two bolts by the High fuel pressure pump I could not get to is why I’m asking cuz I need this done it’s the only video that help me
I put it in the video. You need a T45 torx bit to remove the bolts.
Frankie Aponte I did a diagnosis and no codes popped up but it’s shutting off after 3 or 4 cranks or when I’m on a hill could it still be HPFP? I dnt want to buy the piece yet until I know for sure could it be the fuel pump ??
Great video! Thanks but the background music was a little annoying to me. I am a little hard of hearing so it was a little difficult for me to to understand you. You did an excellent job with the video thanks again.
Thanx for the video bro..thats exactly what I needed to get mine done🤙🤙
I am glad it helped you.
My fuel pump on my 2013 escape to the left of the battey under a black rubber that i pulled back. It was eazy to get to . Got a new one from ebay for ninty dollers. Need to look at tthe way the hoses and plug in to the wire are at . They are not all the same. Match the looks to tthe new one or may not hook up right.
Do you have the 1.6L engine? It's the most common engine but you're right, it might be different if you have the 2.0L.
Thank you very Much for your for your Video it help Me alot!!!!!!!!
Did you only get a shut down? What about sputtering to the point on not being able to run it. This is what my granddaughter’s is doing?
10:20 mark, how do you spell that “tempit”?
Just got this code but only after it warmed up. Suddenly shut down like it was out of gas. Scanned codes and P06A7, P0087 fuel rail/sys pressure too low P00C6 and P2227 Barometric press circuit range/performance. Restarted and died several times. No acceleration. Let it sit and everything is now fine. Am I missing something? What else can this be?
hello Bruce Hamilton, your vehicle has a problem with the return signals splice, perform the TSB 13-12-12 and repair the splice S123 and S178 , really easy to fix, you can call to ford service and ask if your car in on the recall list for this issue if not you will have to fixed or take to a professional to do it
@@DuartesAutoTipsandTricks I have a 2016, 2.0. After 3 weeks of trying to figure out what the problem is the solution is now found and I'm betting I won't be the only one with this issue. This wire issue is not the one in the TSB and not currently in a recall. This vehicle at approximately 43,000 mile produced the same symptoms as the TSB 13-12-12. Motor suddenly stalling, backfire sometimes, rough running, loss of power, etc. Wire had worn through the wire harness wrap and eventually one of the wires in the bundle atop the motor from chaffing on a post. This caused the PCM to throw numerous codes and disable critical safety systems. Random, erratic and unpredictable. Wire bundle aligned with the fuel rail begins at the driver side of the motor. At the point where it begins up come to the motor there is a post (aluminum). This wire was not sufficiently protected from chaffing The remainder of the wire is well secured and insulated but this point is literally and accident waiting to happen. This was very difficult to find as the problem as it was so intermittent. Not covered under the 5/100 K warranty and my dealer charged me $318.00 which I feel was good considering what it could have been. Not happy I had to pay at all but! In total I've spent over $600 getting this figured out and resolved. I like Ford cars and trucks but this is unacceptable. This last breakdown placed my family in great danger as there was no safe place to get off the road (70 MPH Interstate with little shoulder and merging state highway). This was the third time having to tow this vehicle for this. I will be making a report to NHTSA. I am certain others will experience this failure and I hope no one gets hurt. In my case it also disabled the restraint systems and airbags when it occurred.
Hello, what kind of symptoms was the car experiencing before you change that part? I have a 2013 ford escape se 1.6l turbo ecoboost and I've been experiencing stalling, bucking and now my engine light is on if your able to contact me somehow that would be great and muchly appreciated
Yes those are the symptoms. Check your codes. If it’s the same code then change this part.
@CiscoMedia76 I finally got an OBD on my car came up as P0087 how do I know if it's that pump at the motor or the fuel pressure sensor
@@patricdupuis7183change the fuel pump in this video and you should be good to go.
Same vehicle. I have code P018B - low fuel pressure sensor failure. Is this sensor in the same area as the fuel pump you replace in this video? It seems to be very easy to access on some Fords, but I can't find anything about the location of the Fuel Pressure Sensor on this vehicle. My guess is that is due to it being so deep in the engine like in the video.
Ben Laux it’s on the fuel line near the master cylinder
P006C. Would this cause that code ? Need a answer 😭
Yes, could very well be same faulty component, since P006C is also low fuel pressure.
How do you know that it’s the fuel pump I have 2014 is it the same?
Pull your engine codes for your Check Engine light. If you're getting a P0087 code, then it's most likely this fuel pump. 2014 should be the same.
@@CiscoMedia76 I’m getting a u0256-00 code nothing with a p witch is a good thing but also could mean several other I don’t know what this code mean I have figuring out for days now what do you think?
@@SierraZarafuel pump is not your problem. ua-cam.com/video/CeSH0I1XrYs/v-deo.htmlsi=X43Npq5jUu2LcoXW
@@CiscoMedia76 thank you for the help I’m still in need of help! That code says it’s a lost communication with front controls interface module 'a' or a Mac sensor! I’m confused which on is it I have changed all air flow !
@@SierraZara in the video that I linked for you, at the 3:15 timestamp, it shows that the code is related to the MAF sensor. (Mass Air Flow) You need to start there. Check all wiring and connectors associate with the MAF. Replace the sensor if necessary. If you do all that and are still throwing the same code, then you need to take it to a mechanic.
Was driving my ecoboost 2014 escape one day for about an hour, then parked it for 10 minutes, started and it died on me, acted like it was out of gas, no cel on dash, towed it to shop, next day it started, so it starts sometimes and others it won't, will only crank no start, what r the symptoms of the high press pump going out ?
You definitely have the symptoms. Should’ve gotten a CEL though but I would start here with the HPFP.
One question if yall know did you hade to program it ??
No programming necessary.
While least a fuel pumps not in the fuel tank that's good to know
Charlie James yes it is , there are 2 on this vehicle Low pressure in the tank high pressure pump at the fuel rail
So I got my high fuel pump replaced about 9 days ago because I was having an issue with my car hesitating to start after pumping gas. The very next day after leaving the shop my car drove about 10 miles and kept dying on me. Fast forward nine days later it’s still at the shop because they cannot figure out what’s wrong with it although it was running fine when I brought it to them other than that issue once I pump gas. Can you help me figure out what may be wrong please or offer some type of advice? It’s a 2014 Ford Escape Titanium. This is completely stressing me out
Could be the rear pump and fuel driver like mine
If te issue only occurs after pumping gas it's an issue with the evap line. The lines with green clips in this video is what needs replaced. It's a pain to replace
Here's my two cents, tighten to SNUG then leave it alone. Do not give it "A LITTLE EXTRA" once snug, you will be fine. I did this job two hours ago and I could have been done sooner if I didn't snap the bolt that hold down the actual pump. Yes I'm an idiot.
Ugh that sux. Sorry to hear.
Wtf I replaced this same high pressure and the low pressure sensor and still having problems with the vehicle stalling
What engine code are you getting?
P0087
That sucks dude. IDK what to tell you. Replacing the high pressure pump should resolve the issue.
Fuel pump for sure .
Frankie Aponte I appreciate the video. I replaced the $250 part but the Escape is still stalling. Any other ideas?
Do you know the part number?
BM5Z9350A
Frankie Aponte thank you
Excellent video I do mine torrow.
Cool, thanks!
How do you rotate the crank ?
18 mm socket to the largest pulley in the engine. Use a Shallow socket
How long did this take and what are labor charges? Just curious :)
I am not sure what the book says but I assume an hour labor charge. It took me about 2hrs to do it the first time, which will be half that after I knew everything to do. So a shop should get it done within an hour.
$ ?
Very good car
very helpfully thank you
I've been struggling with that stupid f****** plastic cover for an hour and a half now how the f*** do you get it off
i think 115 ft/lbs is way too much. my gut told me to stop but i gently kept going till i snapped a bolt. doh!!! that was with the wrench set at 100! still looking for the proper specs
You're absolutely correct. 115 ft/lbs of torque is way too much. But if you look at the video again, it's 115 lb-in of torque. 115 in-lb's of torque is around 9.5 ft-lbs. You have to pay attention to the details or you're gonna break stuff.
I did the same thing!!
Nice video, could do without the music, it doesn’t add anything and just distracting.
Freaking ford.
What a pain in the but.
Ford flow pump
I would die if I had to do that 😭
Dude there's two fuel pumps one underneath the hood and one underneath in the gas tank!
Yeah, and your point? Only one is identified as the High Pressure fuel pump, dude.