One-Person Brake Bleeder Bottle: amzn.to/3JPK54z (affiliate*) Mazda DOT 3 Brake Fluid: amzn.to/3VxOiOY (affiliate*) Milwaukee 2962-20 Mid-Torque Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3zj5ikC (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Good video. I use a Motive one man pressure tank that connects to the reservoir so you don’t run out of fluid, and love it. I also discovered that you don’t usually need to remove the wheels, at least not on my Camry, CR-V, RAV4, & Tundra. You can get to the bleeder screws from the front or back, often without jacking up the vehicle much or at all.
Ah, that sounds pretty nice. Is it the kind that builds up pressure in the master cylinder reservoir so all you need to do is crack the bleeders and they bleed themselves without needing to pump the brake pedal?
@@Mikeattempts That's what I use, on a clutch I had it was the ONLY thing that worked. One downside is you need a cap that fits the master and if you work on a few cars you might need an array of them.
The Motive & Amazon clones kits ( & adapters ) are problematic. Invariably, if the adapter is not a perfect fit on the reservoir, brake fluid leaks everywhere. The move some DIYers make is to use it dry. Don't put fluid in tank. Just utilize It's pressure function to allow for one person bleeds. It's a chore to detach the adapter & top off brake reservoir between wheels. Today's cars are built with cheaper & cheaper plastics & electronics. Brake fluid on a electrical connectors can give you expensive problems. Also, never , ever have those quick oil change places touch your brake reservoir !
Worth pointing out: Brake fluid is not consumed in normal operation. The fluid level is an indication of pad wear. If it's low, don't top it up; it's time to check your brakes.
@@Mikeattempts Yeah, when replacing disc brake pads, first open the bleeder nipple before pressing the pistons back so that you don't overflow the master cylinder reservoir and end up with brake fluid damaging your paintwork. Remember to close the bleeder nipple of course to prevent air entering the system. After replacing the pads and pumping the brake pedal, the res reservoir will likely need topping up.
This is a good point. I was taught to return the master fluid level to the 'as found' when you finished as it can be used as a quick visual check of gross pad wear for all 4 wheels.
As pads and shoes wear, the fluid level in the master cylinder drops. It can drop quite a bit and the pads and shoes will still have a good service life, so it's normal practice to top up the master cylinder as necessary to maintain the correct fluid level. If the fluid level is correct and worn pads and/or shoes are being replaced, then you can't return the fluid to the master cylinder or it will overflow. My mate did that on a car he was putting new pads in. If you don't keep the master cylinder fluid topped up, it can get so low that air gets into the system and you won't have brakes.
Excellent video, you made it look super easy. I’ve been looking for the correct adapter to attach to the reservoir so I can use one of those tanks were you pressurize it via manual pumping then just crack the bleeders, but haven’t been able to find one. Any suggestions?
Thanks! I was actually gifted a cheap version of something similar from Amazon but, after doing some research, I ended up purchasing this bottle instead. I never even tried the pneumatic brake bleeder kit. This one-way bleeder bottle couldn't be simpler while the other seemed more complex (more potential point of failure) than it needed to be.
hey mike you should attempt Bosch GBH 2-26 hammer drills, i liked your vids and details which you cover while repairs, most of all i like how clean the environment is while doing this process. amazing!
Thanks! I've already got a video repairing a Bosch rotary hammer drill, it's probably similar to your model ( ua-cam.com/video/3oAqGoeL7_c/v-deo.html ). Or was this comment meant for that video? :)
You're having much better luck with that than I did, I ended up making a knock off Motive Products pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer, I had tried every type of vacuum method and just could not get the bleeder screws to stop letting air past the threads, even with teflon tape. Maybe it's because the masters on trucks create more vacuum.
I actually got one of those vacuum bleeders where you attach your air compressor hose to create suction but then I found this bottle, so I never tried the vac one. The bottle is much less complicated and has worked perfectly to bleed brakes on 2 different cars and also 1 clutch.
@@criticalevent No, not that I noticed. However, I only need to crack open each bleeder around 1/4 - 1/3 turn for optimal bleeding so I think there's still a lot of thread engagement.
Good idea to get a flare nut wrench (what we call a brake pipe spanner), which is a single hex with a cut-out to go over the pipe. This type of wrench ensures that you don't round off the bleeder nipple, which can happen with an open-end wrench.
@@Mikeattempts I have a 3/8" / 7/16" one that I used to use in my older cars beck in the 70's and a metric set of eight or ten sizes for our later cars.
@@BrucePierson Our Mazda 6 uses the same 10mm size on each caliper but my Honda Civic uses 8mm on the back & 10mm on the front. So, I should only need 2 flare nut wrenches to be covered.
I've just replaced the rear wheel cylinders (which were leaking) and the brake shoes on my 1982 Mitsubishi L300 Express van. I got my wife to operate the brake pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder nipple. That one person bleeder bottle looks like a good idea iv you don't have a second person available to help you.
I'd use this bottle even if I did have a willing helper. No coordinating "pump the pedal, press down and hold, now bring the pedal all the way back up" over and over. :)
Great video. I aim to do thisjob soon with the same bleeder bottle. Quick question: In the sequence for bleeding, is it not meant to be the furthest from the master cylinder to the closest, so rear first, then to front? The diagram in the video shows rear, front, back to rear and then front again. Thanks.
Oops, that was 100% a mistake on my part when creating that graphic. Despite the error in the image, I did perform the bleeding in the proper order. Follow the arrows, not the numbers. It should be Passenger Rear (1), Driver Rear (2), Passenger Front (3), Driver Front (4). I don't know if I can fix it in the video or not but that you for pointing it out.
Top tip. Remove the bleed screws and apply PTFE tape to the threads. This prevents air from entering the caliper via the threads during bleeding, and prevents the bleed screws from corroding to the caliper and being difficult to remove next time.
Yeah, but wouldn't you get a bunch of air in the system by removing the bleeders? I've used this bottle to bleed the brakes on both of our cars, and also my clutch, and haven't had any issues with air getting past the threads yet.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One-Person Brake Bleeder Bottle:
amzn.to/3JPK54z (affiliate*)
Mazda DOT 3 Brake Fluid:
amzn.to/3VxOiOY (affiliate*)
Milwaukee 2962-20 Mid-Torque Impact Wrench:
amzn.to/3zj5ikC (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Good video. I use a Motive one man pressure tank that connects to the reservoir so you don’t run out of fluid, and love it. I also discovered that you don’t usually need to remove the wheels, at least not on my Camry, CR-V, RAV4, & Tundra. You can get to the bleeder screws from the front or back, often without jacking up the vehicle much or at all.
Ah, that sounds pretty nice. Is it the kind that builds up pressure in the master cylinder reservoir so all you need to do is crack the bleeders and they bleed themselves without needing to pump the brake pedal?
@@Mikeattempts That's what I use, on a clutch I had it was the ONLY thing that worked. One downside is you need a cap that fits the master and if you work on a few cars you might need an array of them.
@@BLKMGK4 This bottle has worked great for the brakes on both our cars as well as my clutch. It's my favorite type of tool, simple and effective. :)
The Motive & Amazon clones kits ( & adapters ) are problematic. Invariably, if the adapter is not a perfect fit on the reservoir, brake fluid leaks everywhere. The move some DIYers make is to use it dry. Don't put fluid in tank. Just utilize It's pressure function to allow for one person bleeds. It's a chore to detach the adapter & top off brake reservoir between wheels. Today's cars are built with cheaper & cheaper plastics & electronics. Brake fluid on a electrical connectors can give you expensive problems. Also, never , ever have those quick oil change places touch your brake reservoir !
Worth pointing out: Brake fluid is not consumed in normal operation. The fluid level is an indication of pad wear. If it's low, don't top it up; it's time to check your brakes.
Yep, if you follow that logic then your master cylinder won't overflow when you compress the caliper pistons either. :)
@@Mikeattempts Yeah, when replacing disc brake pads, first open the bleeder nipple before pressing the pistons back so that you don't overflow the master cylinder reservoir and end up with brake fluid damaging your paintwork. Remember to close the bleeder nipple of course to prevent air entering the system. After replacing the pads and pumping the brake pedal, the res reservoir will likely need topping up.
This is a good point. I was taught to return the master fluid level to the 'as found' when you finished as it can be used as a quick visual check of gross pad wear for all 4 wheels.
@@BrucePierson Liked the, "first open the bleeder nipple before pressing the pistons back"👍😀👍
As pads and shoes wear, the fluid level in the master cylinder drops. It can drop quite a bit and the pads and shoes will still have a good service life, so it's normal practice to top up the master cylinder as necessary to maintain the correct fluid level. If the fluid level is correct and worn pads and/or shoes are being replaced, then you can't return the fluid to the master cylinder or it will overflow. My mate did that on a car he was putting new pads in. If you don't keep the master cylinder fluid topped up, it can get so low that air gets into the system and you won't have brakes.
You made it seem effortless. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for watching this video! :)
Excellent video, you made it look super easy. I’ve been looking for the correct adapter to attach to the reservoir so I can use one of those tanks were you pressurize it via manual pumping then just crack the bleeders, but haven’t been able to find one. Any suggestions?
Thanks! I was actually gifted a cheap version of something similar from Amazon but, after doing some research, I ended up purchasing this bottle instead. I never even tried the pneumatic brake bleeder kit. This one-way bleeder bottle couldn't be simpler while the other seemed more complex (more potential point of failure) than it needed to be.
hey mike you should attempt Bosch GBH 2-26 hammer drills, i liked your vids and details which you cover while repairs, most of all i like how clean the environment is while doing this process. amazing!
Thanks! I've already got a video repairing a Bosch rotary hammer drill, it's probably similar to your model ( ua-cam.com/video/3oAqGoeL7_c/v-deo.html ). Or was this comment meant for that video? :)
Great video, easy to follow.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
You're having much better luck with that than I did, I ended up making a knock off Motive Products pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer, I had tried every type of vacuum method and just could not get the bleeder screws to stop letting air past the threads, even with teflon tape. Maybe it's because the masters on trucks create more vacuum.
I actually got one of those vacuum bleeders where you attach your air compressor hose to create suction but then I found this bottle, so I never tried the vac one. The bottle is much less complicated and has worked perfectly to bleed brakes on 2 different cars and also 1 clutch.
@@Mikeattempts do the threads on your bleeder screws have some sort of thread sealing compound?
@@criticalevent No, not that I noticed. However, I only need to crack open each bleeder around 1/4 - 1/3 turn for optimal bleeding so I think there's still a lot of thread engagement.
Good idea to get a flare nut wrench (what we call a brake pipe spanner), which is a single hex with a cut-out to go over the pipe. This type of wrench ensures that you don't round off the bleeder nipple, which can happen with an open-end wrench.
I've got one flare nut wrench, but I don't remember off the top of my head if it's the correct size for this vehicle.
@@Mikeattempts I have a 3/8" / 7/16" one that I used to use in my older cars beck in the 70's and a metric set of eight or ten sizes for our later cars.
@@BrucePierson Our Mazda 6 uses the same 10mm size on each caliper but my Honda Civic uses 8mm on the back & 10mm on the front. So, I should only need 2 flare nut wrenches to be covered.
I've just replaced the rear wheel cylinders (which were leaking) and the brake shoes on my 1982 Mitsubishi L300 Express van. I got my wife to operate the brake pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder nipple. That one person bleeder bottle looks like a good idea iv you don't have a second person available to help you.
I'd use this bottle even if I did have a willing helper. No coordinating "pump the pedal, press down and hold, now bring the pedal all the way back up" over and over. :)
Great video. I aim to do thisjob soon with the same bleeder bottle. Quick question: In the sequence for bleeding, is it not meant to be the furthest from the master cylinder to the closest, so rear first, then to front? The diagram in the video shows rear, front, back to rear and then front again.
Thanks.
Oops, that was 100% a mistake on my part when creating that graphic. Despite the error in the image, I did perform the bleeding in the proper order. Follow the arrows, not the numbers. It should be Passenger Rear (1), Driver Rear (2), Passenger Front (3), Driver Front (4). I don't know if I can fix it in the video or not but that you for pointing it out.
I added a "Correction" that will pop up on the video when that image is displayed. Thanks again for pointing it out!
I love your videos!
Thanks! :)
Thank you
Thank you for watching! :)
Is it safe to use the same procedure for CX-5 2.5L NA?
This procedure should work on any vehicle, but I would double check the recommended bleed order in the manual.
@@Mikeattempts Thanks man! Quick question, how many bottles of brake fluid did you use for this brake fluid change?
@@chih6654 I used two 12oz bottles of brake fluid, but it would probably be a good idea to get 3.
Wheel furthest away from ABS module, not master cylinder
The ABS pump is in the same general area, right? So, it wouldn't change the bleeding order.
Top tip. Remove the bleed screws and apply PTFE tape to the threads. This prevents air from entering the caliper via the threads during bleeding, and prevents the bleed screws from corroding to the caliper and being difficult to remove next time.
Yeah, but wouldn't you get a bunch of air in the system by removing the bleeders? I've used this bottle to bleed the brakes on both of our cars, and also my clutch, and haven't had any issues with air getting past the threads yet.