How to Install a Barrel Vault Ceiling | This Old House
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2020
- Tom Silva installs a barrel vault ceiling at the Cape Ann house.
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An existing staircase at he Cape Ann house makes the plan for a barrel vault ceiling below a unique challenge. Tom Silva shows Kevin O'Connor his solution.
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How to Install a Barrel Vault Ceiling | This Old House
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"That is pretty slick, Euclid." Kevin you math geek haha
This was a great clip. Showed the whole process start to finish, but not at all drawn out.
Everyone wants to know how they built the pyramids. The precision, the mass of rock, etc. A couple hundred generations back a Silva ancestor did it, that’s how.
Puts the master in Master Craftsman
I swear if I knew a quarter of the stuff Tommy knows I'd he happy as hell
Tommy, you are a genius. It seems like you always have the solution to a problem and you present the solution and make it look easy
thank you for making this longer and explaining more
wow , im always impressed with what Tom does . Ive seen it done other ways but this way was soooo simple awesome job!!!!!!!
Thank you guys so much for this amazing video!! I've been thinking of trying to do this in a hallway much like this one in my basement and thanks to you guys I know exactly how to do it now 😁
Great show, love what all do thank you so much for your time and knowledge
Tommy had me worried when he said "Slowly bend the drywall". Nice job.
Very creative solution. Thanks
Tom Silva is the man.
That IS A slick trick, Tommy!!
That is pretty cool!
Very cool Tommy !!!
Excellent effect all round (groan).
Interesting method of drawing the ellipse. An alternative method is string and nails and use a pencil to draw an elliptical curve. (And easy as to try it for yourselves, without needing to knock up the timber battens of course.)
As for the bending or curving of the drywall material then you need look no further than your own Gypsum Association.
They have produced an interesting paper or method statement :
GA-226-2019
This Paper illustrates methodology for bending of both concave and convex surfaces (from pov of viewer).
Plus a table of radii possible using the various thicknesses.
It describes also "wet" bending; by water misting one of the surfaces about 10 to 15 minutes prior to installation.
If a very tight concave bend is required then it is possible to score the face in tension (with a Stanley knife, say.)
Even more amazing is it is possible to form a cylinder using gypsum board
Type of fixings and centers included too.
Amazing how simple (relatively) it is to form plasterboard/sheetrock/drywall. Probably goes without saying that you take your time to get the result.
This video is a reminder that Tom is the man.
That was amazing
That is pretty cool! 😊
Tommy you are by far a master builder, are sure you're not a free mason? Because you got a lot of special talents.
Nice work
How cool was that! Thanks guys; I take this idea for my potential self-build 😄
Tommy Is the best! sure he could of done it with a string or a thin piece of wood but he wanted to show you how badass he is haha
I've never seen Tom so nervous after all these years lol @4:35, but this is some serious carpentry skill, looks amazing!
Drywall is heavy when your helper is taking forever to find screws
Nice!!👍👍👍👍
Nice trick !
PRETTY COOL TOMMY
I can see that Mr. Silva is one of the people who's always doing critical thinking, and who says that your most expensive tool is your knowledge!👏👏🤝🤝
Neat trick
Tommy just blew my mind!
Good morning everyone from wellington Somerset in the UK
Goodnight from California, USA 😎
Tommy with that awesome trick!
Nice job when we do it in the UK we spray water on the plasterboard first to manipulate it into shape 👍
Mr silva 🐐
Pretty cool invention with that stick.
I just tried this. It works. Have an extra set of hands and make sure your two sticks are tightly secured together.
Genius.
It’s not an ellipse. To do that search for the elegant eclipse in This is carpentry. They use a string and the focal points of an ellipse. But yes Tommy is the best. His practical guidance has saved me so many times. And he is just plain fun to watch!
Masterful stick trick.
I'm impressed. Didn't know drywall would bend that way.
I've never seen an arc drawn that way before, very interesting! I think the inscribed angle theorem means that the curve is the arc of a circle, and that when one stick is held horizontal, if the other matches the pitch of the rafter, then the circle will be tangent to the rafters. Cool!
But is it a circle or hyperbola?
I'm going with the latter but happy to be corrected.
I've seen the round walls put in.. using spurs on the back side and weting the board to help it bend and take forms.
Fantastic job and a great video. Since it is a 'Barrel Vault Ceiling' I would have continued that theme by skipping the drywall and tacking different length barrel stave sized pieces of oak lengthwise down the hall. Stain to taste!
😂 I believe that method is quite popular in the "Shire" ... I gather it's a Hobbit thing.
Very nice, can you guys make a video on replacing an existing ground level window?
Hey my favorite show
Russian ,Bob Vila ,bot ..... maybe ???
I’m sorry
impressive way he made the arch. I think though you would have gotten the same arch with a much simpler way:
just take a scrap piece of trim wood that is thin enough to bend like shoe molding. Pressing the trim against each of of the nails and just push forward the middle should also make a natural arch as well.
1/2 in. cpvc
String is even easier.
Many ways you go about finding the arch you wanted. But yea, a simple baton (I watch a lot of wood boat building) is what I first thought of using also. But hey, it worked.
The wood might bend unevenly. This method gives you a perfect curve.
As I said in another comment, at least in my area a wooden ceiling wouldn't pass the fire codes.
Amazing 👌. I would have just pulled up that contoured gyproc in center with some 11in drywall screws 😉.
Muy bien
where are the lights going? wall sconces?
Did Tommy use a standard 1/2” piece of drywall or is there one that is more flexible? I’m surprised the drywall didn’t crack
1/8” or 1/4” piece of drywall
3/8
3/8" for sure. In the old days they would use thicker drywall, but they would score the back to create controlled relief points so it would flex/crack but maintain the paper covering.. I'm not sure which way is better, because even this way, I'd wonder if you'd have screw popping (where the screw pulls through the back of the drywall) eventually. You'll notice they also used fine-threaded drywall screws for more holding power, and I'm not sure if they put in more than a standard panel but I'd probably add more screws and hope for the best. The problem with the thin drywall is over-driving the screws, Gotta say those Festool drivers handle speed variability really well it seems. See how they did it here: ua-cam.com/video/E8fZLM5S_ds/v-deo.html
They make 3/8” and 1/4”. For really tight you’ll use multiple layers of 1/4”.
BigJsgarage w they don’t make 1/8” drywall, that would be a piece of paper with a light skim coat.
Great solution - however they should have talked about the characteristics of the 'dry wall' material and model their arch on it. I believe that if 'dry wall' is steamed it will be more pliable and retain the shape it is formed in to once it has dried.
I use bendable plywood and wet Rock ( they have bendable sheetrock too)...The plywood gives you a great screw in surface, If you can layer it/ all the better...
Wondering why Tommy decided not to also use a few dabs of stud adhesive between the timber and the back of the drywall sheet to maybe prevent the screws from popping out over time.
The moisture in the air will keep the drywall formed to fit. It helps if you use a wand sprayer and spray the Sheetrock with a little water. It softens the gypsum and it’ll bow easier and not crack as easy also.
@@RadDadisRad I wonder if you sprayed the scored gypsum board with dilute PVA then the PVA would harden in the "set" sheet of plasterboard.
I have used dilute (5:1) PVA in powdered plaster mix. It appears to help with the forming of the plaster mix, plus does not dust off when dry.
It can’t “pop out” - it’s under compression.
@DR PHIL I have done this taping of joints ( typically we use a "scrim" tape, which is a manmade fibre mesh with an adhesive backing, about 2" wide or so) and then using multiple layers of a fine powdered filler plaster, sanded smooth between applications until all the depressions filled. Typically the finish side of a sheet of plasterboard is thinner on the edges to allow a skim of plaster to cover the scrim tape.
We are very much into wall paper coverings, so then either single cross line the wall with a off-white backing paper, (slightly wider than the finish paper so as to avoid the seams lining up) or if desired double cross line a wall before the final coverings. This means the second layer of backing paper is applied horizontally.
(In Victorian or Edwardian terrace houses, not always well built and sometimes just thrown up, we must resort to a single layer of woodchip paper (with "real" wood chips in the fibres) which is so heavy it more or less holds the hundred year old plus horsehair fortified plaster together. Sometimes you find bugs living off the horsehair.
Usually the ceilings in these old houses are lathe and plaster and appear to defy gravity for decades. These ceilings sometimes papered as well.
Some folks use an anaglypta paper which has an embossed pattern. This too is a very heavy weight paper.
Then the paper is painted with emulsion, or sometimes gloss paints.(Each to his own ...)
We have a lot of the not particularly desirable Victorian/Edwardian housing stock in inner cities and these are usually all the first time home buyer can afford, hence a rough and ready approach to decorating.
People try to move on as fast as possible to the more desirable "leafy suburbs" surrounding our towns and cities. (A typical two up, two down terrace is a bit small for when children arrive.)
If a wall is plaster coated, and in good condition, then just an emulsion paint.
Newer build house with internal timber framed walls are plasterboarded and skim coated with plaster.
Then either emulsioned by the builders when first sold, then perhaps wall papered later by the new owners.
@Smarter Than You go back to your parents (assuming you know who they are) and ask them to teach you some basic manners. I asked a simple question that neither required nor deserved a puerile insult... but thanks for your contribution to the sum total of human knowledge.
Wet the back of the drywall and let it hang over a sawhorse while you go to lunch. Comes out much better when installed.
Reply to spvpotter
Great reply thank you for your correct reply! I’m 73 and never too old to learn! Your invite and knowledge is spot on. Thanks again
So the angle of the trace sticks has to be adjusted to fit an arc inside the rafters?
Is that 3 point arch? Or eleptical arch. Looking great.
-Hey Tommy I'd really love to know why you marked both sides of both of the rafters on your template?- Don't worry they answered that question at 3:50.
How do you make that stick tool to guide you on making arc do you play with it until it looks good ??? Also would you have to consider the drywalls bend strength? I think you would but also if you could show a video without the drywall amd instead plywood also why not make blue prints to hold stairs without dealing with barrel cieling arcs
What material was used for the ceiling? That's a really cool tool that can be made from scrap wood.
Para hacer curbas es el mismo proceso
Would a straight rise to the other side with a lip or shelf there to put plants along the other side have worked?
With some up lighting up there would really make it pop.
With some led multi colour strip lights would have been awesome.
Might want to add something about how you knew the length of the drywall to cut before mounting.
Take the original template and stand it up on its edge, curved side down. Start at one end of the drywall and roll or rock it along the drywall (like a classic rocking chair). Mark the end and make your cut.
You could place a string along the template and then measure the string
Midnight upload from TOH
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️
Cool. But I'm thinking about doing this to my 22 foot wide room...
How did that drywall bend and not snap?
What was the ceiling actually made of? Is that sheetrock that he put up there?
the should arch the door ways also
A home🏠🏡😌😃
Nice! But... I suspect what we didn’t get to see was the curved joints BETWEEN each piece not matching up. I’m certain it was “close”(ish), but not smooth or consistent by any means. Solving the joint mudding discrepancy is what I’d have like to have seen.
How do you know what angle to make the boards you used to make the arch line?
It's the same angle that the stair stringer makes with a level line.
Could have taken a thin strip os wood and bent it between the two points
Why not double up brackets and bead board that curve?
So next question would be lighting . How do you install lighting now with no flat surface to put it on
I would run an LED strip along each wall behind some crown moudling.
@@jej3451 this is true , not much else you can do in that situation.
@@matthewm9913 Hmm, if you have the time have a look at some of the kit available for uplighters.
I recall some years ago ToH engaged a young lady specialist to demo some effects throughout a property ... some of it absolutely stunning. Effects ranged from the aesthetic to task lighting in the kitchen.
ToH might have that video in their back catalogue perhaps.
Wall sconces are a thing.
In my living room i have not a single light source on the (flat) ceiling. Only half round matt glass wall lights, pointing up to the ceiling. Works good.
Pro tip: you can also dapen the drywall with some water... NOT SOAK, but dampen... It'll bend much easier and less likely to crack. I'd use a sprayer. Let it soak in.
Don’t think so. Moisture weakens the screw bite. Want *dry* wall, much as possible, then take the dry radius you can get.
@@Nill757 Hmm, I take it you haven't read all the comments then?
That’s an expensive drywall straight edge.
It chooches twice as good for twice the cost.
Wouldn't 1/4" plywood work better? It won't crack. You could use two layers of it, and you could score the back.
What’s the angle between the two sticks? And how come nobody is asking this question?
Possibly because there's an easier way to do the partial ellipse curve?
put the two stick on the nails (back end), one will be on top of the other as they overlap (front end). Where ever you want the max height of the curve is where you will nail the sticks together.
Wouldn't it just be easier to use a thin piece of wood as a batten? And it would let you adjust the arch easily.
I'm not sure if this applies everywhere but in my area it wouldn't pass code to use wood. You gotta use some sort of fireblock material (such as drywall) on any ceiling.
@@danielgehring7437 I meant for drawing the arc
@@alejandrohuerta988 Ah, my apologies. Maybe he just wanted to show off the method.
anyone else notice Kevins Occidental bags?
I pooped!
Did anyone else watch this video thinking they where going to show you how to put a vault in your ceiling?
The vault belongs in someone else’s ceiling cause I’m pretty broke right now.
dang all this time i thought you score the drywall
Suspect it all depends on thickness of the plasterboard and the radius you're hoping to bend around.
Scoring the side in tension, on a concave bend, say, is still perfectly. valid.
Not to deep and nice and slow she said
How that boat didn't break I don't know..
I mean it looks okay but I don't get the point. Why not just a standard ceiling and fill the leftover space with insulation or lighting or whatever? Is that extra half-foot or whatever of headspace really going to be worth the hassle of never being able to do anything behind that space ever again?
Couldn't you have just taken a drywall shim and curved it between the nails?
Gees !! Way too complicated !! You're supposed to do that with a piece of string tied in a loop !
String not tied up in a loop as only half an ellipse.
If you Google up how to draw an ellipse with two nails in the foci and a loop of string no reason why not trying it for yourself.
The curve Tommy drew is only a sector of an ellipse. The inside surface of those two rafters is the limiting factor for the curve.
These things not some arcane secrets known only to Euclid and Master Builders ...
I know a better way but I ain't tellin'
Why install a vault ceiling?
I believe the owners wanted an aesthetic look.
And, if you have ever lit a vaulted ceiling using uplighters the effect is quite pleasing.
Stated early in video. Stringers from stairway above are in the ceiling space.
Another solution would be a steel stairway, which has minimal structure.
Or hire an engineer to do it correctly and get the best results
I’m first
To bad it was a ambush and I’m second to pick up your pieces
Added
“Drawr it out”, nice.