Stumbled across this quite by accident. I'm not a carpenter or engineer, by trade, but I've wanted to do this in my family room and connected kitchen for some time. Was told by carpenters that it wasn't possible, that the roof would likely collapse. That didn't make sense to me since you would likely start by sistering 2x6s or 8s to the rafter part of the truss. I'm going to share your video with a local engineer and go from there. Loved the video. Thank you for sharing. Larry Altman
I remodeled a 100 year old condemned house and we did exactly this because the ridge was severely sagging. There were no trusses however but we cut loose all the original rafters and had attached new 2x6s onto them. We then jacked the new beam up into place literally pushing the original ridge beam out of the top of the roof. We used 12 ton bottle jacks on each end and had tripled the wall studs/posts under the jack points.
I have a detached garage with unfinished walls and ceiling, that's framed exactly like the model '25 x '30. And this video is what I was looking for, been brainstorming how to raise the ceiling to use the garage as a work shop. Great video!!
OMG, you just saved me a ton of headaches, once again!!! I was trying to figure out how to get a ridge beam up over the rafter ties, which are already 10' over the finish floor. man, i came up with some crazy medieval contraptions thatwould've made Davinci proud, but this is just ridiculously easy! Thanks agaiin!!! Love your videos!
I found this video because I was pondering if it would be possible to convert our ceilings to a vaulted ceiling. I sort of expected it to be undesirable. Your way looks really nice and strong. Now I just have to get the money together to pay someone to do it. :) I'd like to think it's a DIY job, but not without a team of experienced workers to help do it. I know my limits, and this one is going as far as knowing what I want a contractor to do for me.
Same. I’m a DIY guy but this is something you pay a professional for. Reminds me of that line from Dirty Harry… “A man has got to know his limitations.”
When your spouse keeps on asking for vaulted ceilings in an old house, you simply play them this clip and also explain that the entire roof deck will need to be redone for your cold climate. Discussion over 😂
@@HawkGTboy No. It's not such a difficult job, but it's a gut job on the inside. The issue is having the idea like he explained in this excellent video. You'd need an engineer to size the glue lam beam. I had this exact situation in my house 25 years ago. It took me 5 years to figure it out 🤦♂️. Ended up with what he showed, except we cut a hole in the side table to slide the beam before touching the truss parts
Have a 36 x 20 attached garage. Great video, but my thoughts are to make that a giant room above. Might be almost as easy to take off the roof, remove the trusses, then frame conventionally. Cleaner approach but wasting the remaining years of the roof. Maybe the roof plywood could be salvaged?
Great talk about the conversion... I might add that the roof needs to be designed as a rigid diaphragm to more efficiently transfer lateral loads to the perimeter walls which will put limits to the length and height of the beam/post design. Also, might add that uplift may govern the design in some cases especially if one end is open, i.e. like a garage or patio
Sounds good to me. You do bring up a good point and that is the fact that there are other things to consider when doing any modifications to an existing structure.
I found this channel while trying to figure out why every shed replacement I was looking at seemed to have no rafter ties or proper beam support. Drove me nuts. "They're just sheds" I guess they say. Well, if my original shed had been built correctly, I wouldn't be replacing it. 2 weeks later, I am going to build something that should likely support a locomotive on the roof.
This helped so much. I’ve been trying to engineer some thing in my head and have been getting paralysis from over analysis lol. I’m converting a 70s concession stand up above my race track into my temporary new home and future VRBO and I think this would just be awesome. Everything is tin at the moment And it needs some life to it
Can you do this with only half of the trusses? For example if you wanted to cut out a space for a loft but didn't want to remove them all, just essentially remove 1/4 section.
Nice video, but, at 5:58 now that you've cut the center of 2x4s out there's nothing stopping the walls from being pushed out from the weight of the roof. Unless thats a slow process that happens over time, not a couple days?
What would be the process of adding a walkable floor to the upper section? I have a very large attic above my garage that I would love to covert into an actual living space, but it is trussed up. I am looking at doing this exact process but am unsure about how adding a floor to it would work. Thank you
So in the video you mention if you wanted to move the ridge blocks you'd need to remove the sheathing on the roof and re nail. I'd imagine at some point in depth into a project like this it would be easier and maybe more cost effective and less labor intensive to just strip the roof off and restart. Get pre engineered pre assembled trusses and just build a whole new roof. Am I correct on this thinking?
You bring up a good point and sometimes it will be easier, but it might not always be cheaper. There are a lot of things to take into consideration and doing a project like this and engineering will always be one of them. Heating and air-conditioning, electrical wires, plumbing and anything else that can be in the way, can create problems.
It's not as easy as going with prefab or custom trusses. As pointed by the author, one must consider AC unit mounted on roof, HVAC ducts running through attic, electrical attic wiring, and attic plumbing especially these days with PEX water lines. While a remodel is certainly "doable", expect to leave the house vacant 2 to 3 months and spend around $30k to $40k for a vaulted ceiling on an existing gable roof for a 1,400 SQ FT home. EDIT: Keep in mind that the walls will need to be extended to meet with the height of the new vaulted ceiling or you will take the walls down and create an open floor plan.
@@danielmendoza1774 What do you mean when you say the walls will need to be extended? Do you mean you have to make them wider to maintain the original height where the ceiling meets the wall? And how could you take the walls down? I'm not understanding anything you said in the edit portion of your comment.
Make sure you check reactions on the beam ends. You might need to add a larger footing condition @ both ends of the run. Typical footings can only take so much load transfer, based on depth and width.
That's a very good point and even though this covers the framing, you can watch some of our newer videos for more information about footings on remodel projects like this one.
@@gregvancom worked in truss design for 35 years. It's all the things I go over with individuals excited to cut out their original flat ceilings. It's the small things that will really kill you for cost.
@amyheist6745 Yep, I've been doing this forever. How do you know me? I have known so many Amy's over the years. Way more plus and minus. So you have that going for you.
@@llew-AZ I do not know you at all. I just have followed these comments as we want to convert our existing garage into a great room and want to vault the ceiling (without raising the roof)....just thought I'd pick your brain to see if it is possible.
If you need to take the roofing and sheathing off, would it be more efficient and faster to redo the framing with the ridge beam and rafters, or is this the most efficient way to deal with this kind of modification? Does the situation/response change if I am also extending the roofline out?
To verify whether or not the project could be done more efficiently or faster, would depend upon the project. It will be up to you and your engineer to figure out what will actually provide the best results or save you the most money.
Awesome video. Could I just modify the existing flat ceiling truss to a scissor truss, as opposed to a raising a ridge beam with a true vault and rafters?
I've never seen an existing truss remodeled. However, you can check with a local truss manufacture or structural engineer to see if they have some ideas.
How would you do an over hang on the ridge side? Make a longer beam, but what about the roof rafter,? Do you nail a 2by on the ends of the rafter tails and run it long?
If you have a supporting wall under the ridge or beam, then you can build the vaulted ceiling on one side. If this didn't answer your question, then provide more details.
I am about to do something similar. The structural engineer advised that we needed to put an entirely new beam basement and new Wally columns. Can you explain why this would impact the basement?
Thanks Greg. What is the best way to get the rafters in to my attic? I've removed the gypsum and insulation from my ceiling, I thought I could just slide them up but the middle wall is too high. Do you think I might be able to cut a small hole in the roof and get them in that way?
I don't have a method that would work on every project, but it sounds like you have a few obstacles in the way that might either need to be removed or like you said, a small home might need to be cut in the roofing and sheathing. Feel free to email me some pictures if you haven't figured it out already and I'll be glad to take a look at it.
For a 30+ ft span, it was cheaper for me to use 2x6x20 beams sistered at a vaulted angle, rather than move to a center beam by more than half. It gave me the added height, but also makes for an attic space to insulate which has helped keep the shop more bearable.
It all depends upon the design, but if you add a post to transfer weight above a floor, then there will need to be something below to continue transferring the weight to the foundation. I do have some more videos in the engineering section at our website that might be helpful.
pretty cool, thanks for explaining that! It still boggles my mind that putting a giant heavy beam way up in the air somehow stops a structure from falling down. I know there's math, but it seems counter intuitive. Could you explain the physics/forces of how that beam works?
I'm not a structural engineer, but might be able to provide you with a video that will give you a little more information. I will post a link here when the video is done.
Thanks that would be awesome, and I would never hold you liable for anything, and would obviously seek professional advice in a contextual situation if I was ever planning/executing. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. Thanks!
It’s all about thrust....if you vault and don’t have anything at the top to support the load a horizontal thrust will be applied at the top of the wall and the rafters want to push the walls out. This is the main point of ceiling joist to resist this outward thrust. Couple of problems here is adding a much larger concentrated load at each end of the new ridge beam that the existing footings more than likely cant support. Also by vaulting you can’t brace the gable end wall in the attic so you would have to come up with some special bracing or balloon frame the end wall.
It works because the ridge beam is held in place by columns on both ends that ideally extend down to the foundation. The ceiling center can’t move downward because the beam is held up by said columns. Some people could use rafter ties which have a look some people want as well. The beam isn’t really the glue holding anything up, it’s the columns though in this case
Hi Greg...good evening...excellent video. Where are u located...I really want to convert the general truss I have in the attic to Attic truss to get cathedral ceiling and transform Attic to living space. I am in South East Michigan.
@gregvancom Can u still help me located a builder who understands what you showed....when I talk to any general contractor they seems to think its not possible 🤔...Please work with me on my attic project
Hi Greg, for the ridge beam conversion....structurally speaking....would you ever just use the the existing 2x4s from the trusses instead of adding rafters connected to them?
If you're talking about redesigning the truss and modifying it into a shape that would be used as an alternative to installing a ridge beam, then you would need some type of an approved design.
I was thinking of doing something like this, but I was concerned about aligning all the rafters so that the beam would lift into place but not leave a gap between the rafters and ridge beam. Normally you install the rafters individually to the ridge beam so a tight fit is easier to achieve, but here tolerances matter as you are fitting to many rafters at once.
Hey sir I have a question, would a beam in the middle of the roof be needed if only one room of the building is vaulted ceiling and everything else is flat ceiling? Every room will have ceiling joists and only one room will be vaulted.
If I was placing the 2nd story on a 5/12 truss roof could I use open web floor trusses expanding the full width of structure (since the load factor with the current roof trusses is the outside walls of the structure) and install the floor trusses (32' long x 24" thick) from one side of the structure to the other side of the structure (outside walls) and then screw and glue every roof truss to the floor truss where they touch (every 18") and then remove the part of the roof truss that extends above the floor truss so that a standard framed room could be built on the floor joist trusses?
Also, the reason for the above keeping of the roof trusses and aligning the floor trusses next to them is so the ceiling will no fall down and because the coffered ceiling below them is attached to the bottom of the roof trusses.
I don't understand your question completely, but if you're suggesting that the roof trusses need to be vertically aligned with the roof trusses, then this would also need to be answered by an engineer. Feel free to rephrase your question if I didn't answer it.
The 2x4 wall you used to support the rafters is basically the hallway that runs through my house. I would like to ditch the beam all together. Is that possible. Would I still need to install the rafters. My house is 25ft wide. Hallway 4ft wide. I would really appreciate your response. Thank you
As long as the additional building materials aren't connected to the roof framing trusses in a way that would create additional structural stress and they can support the additional weight, then I would say go for it.
@@gregvancom Ok. Another question: what do I do about these things if I put 2x10s or 2x12s up in my attic: ua-cam.com/video/VjZssXBUHnA/v-deo.html&t=62 "These things don't have to be 48 inches on center" Do I just raise them up so they're on top of the new 2x12s? What are those things even called?
Seems like this changes the lateral force along the outside walls after removing the bottom chord of the truss. Have you ever seen issues with the outside walls bowing or failing?
We have other videos on house framing you should watch. It's difficult to answer your question because I've never visited a project like this one or more decades after it was remodeled.
What if there is no existing beam (2x4 beam) In the center of the roof ? Could i cut the very center after done with the support? To put the beam in..?
I think it might be impossible for me to bring a beam of that length in through our front door. Other than bringing in the beam from the side via a crane, is there another option? For example, could I use beams that are, say, 1/3rd of the length, as long as each end is supported by a post? I have a hallway wall running down the middle of the house in which the support posts could be located.
Yes, engineers use structural post to reduce the length of beams all the time. This might not help, but sometimes we go through windows with our wood beams.
@@gregvancom Thanks. One more question: My house is two stories. So, I'm guessing the joists between the floors are probably not built to be strong enough to support the post & beam, right? So, I'd either have to reinforce those floor joists or run the posts all the way down to the bottom floor, right? Another option I've heard is to convert the trusses to scissor trusses. Seems like that might be easier, as it wouldn't require the post & beams. I know I wouldn't get as much height in that case, but are there any other drawbacks to that approach?
What you're proposing will not work if you need a decent R-factor insulation. R-49 requires 14" plus gap for airflow. Can you design something for that?
I don't have any videos on that yet, but larger insulation will require individual or multiple framing components like roof rafters to provide the space necessary or to find an insulation that will fit in smaller spaces. If it's for new construction or a home remodeling project, you might think about contacting a roof truss manufacturing company to provide you with the necessary framing components.
So at the end you would remove the truss's remaining chord and ceiling joist and also the channel supports for raising the beam. The only thing that would remain from the truss would be the rafter part? Thanks.
Hi Greg. Thanks for the beam raising trick. Very DIY oriented. Bringing the topic of trusses and rafters, could you please explain using plywood gusset instead of metal connectors in trusses. Unfortunately there are no truss factories nor that kind of structural engineers over here. It will help me taking my carpentry skills to the next level. Especially that maximum lumber length here is 12'-10" which limits the run and the pitch when using rafters.
Hi Greg, I have a house with stupid flat metal roof. Now if the big rain , some water come though the ceiling and I can see the black mark in there. I want to change the flat roof to the fitched roof. Can you tell me where is your company workshop please. Thank you.
Hello, I am not a builder or contractor, nor do I know all of the technical terms (wish your video had labels for the structural parts so I can learn) however I have a few questions: I have an existing attached 24 x 24 ft garage (8' ceilings) with trusses similar to the ones in your video. We'd like to convert the garage into a great room with vaulted ceilings. I have been told that we will have to raise the roof. Question: would we be able to suggest this process (in the video) so we do not have to raise the roof? There is no mechanical or plumbing (only minor electric and insulation) in the attic. Would this process you show in your video remedy the need to raise the existing roof? I have done a little research and have found that raising a roof for a 24x24 garage can start at $23k and go upwards of $50K...If there is a way to get the same look (vaulted ceiling) without compromising the integrity of the building, but also saving money, I'd like to know if this is feasible in my situation? If you have an email I can certainly send some pics for you to look at and of course, I would have an engineer give the final okay...I'm just wondering if I do NOT have to raise the roof?
Wow, very clever (my highest compliment). I need to alter my engineered trusses to add space above a car lift in my 25X40' garage/shop. No one is interested; they tell me I have to replace the existing trusses with new engineered trusses. How do I find an engineer locally to design the alteration with your rafter method?
Great video. How much do you think a project like this would cost today ? I know varies by region and such . I’m in Florida. Just looking for a general / reasonable idea of potential cost.
This is a fantastic video! I'm working on a 30' wide pole building with trusses 48"OC where the previous occupant cut out 4 trusses and "re-engineered" them to allow for motor-home clearance. I like the extra clearance so I have been considering engineered I joist until I came across this. Would it be better to use the I joists 48" OC the rafters 24"OC? Do you have a better suggestion where I can retain the ceiling space in this 16' area of the building?
Here's a link to our website for garage remodeling. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html if you can't find what you're looking for then email me some pictures of your problem, but keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering information.
The interior wall support studs should prevent the walls from spreading out, but there are no guarantees. The size of the project, length of the trusses and a variety of other things might require additional structural support braces.
The videos only a year old and if you're suggesting that something less than two years old is older, I must be ancient. Anyway, engineered trusses can only be altered or modified by approved plans from the manufacturer or an engineer and will only pass inspection if approved by your local building authorities, building departments or building inspectors.
Pre-engineered wood roof & floor trusses can be altered/ repaired & modified, but you will need a specific individual truss repair detail sealed by a structural engineer in the state the structure is in.
What's going to keep the side walls from being pushed out? Especially in the middle where they are far from the end walls. The bottom of the trusses could have helped do that, but once they're removed, it seems there's only the stiffness of the walls.
That's a good question. The beam at the top that's used to support the ridge will prevent the walls from spreading. It can actually be one of the reasons why a larger beam might be required.
Ok, I think I get it. The beam carries the weight to its ends, rather than distributing it down the rafters to the side walls like conventional trusses. I definitely see the value in having a structural engineer, but I still like to understand how things work myself. Thanks for the reply!
As long as you're working with a similar situation, then it might work just fine. Remember this video was only meant to provide viewers with something that might work.
Do you draw these designs I see? do you advise on different roof designs, etc? I want to raise my ceiling and the only way to do it is raise the walls or put a wall on top of my wall.
It sounds like you're on the right path, you would need to extend the walls. Don't forget to check out our website, the engineering, framing and framing repair section.www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html feel free to send us some pictures or drawings of what you have in mind and I will see if I can help.
Sorry for digging up an old video, but I was wondering if the ground to ceiling supports stay in place or if they are removed? I think you referred to them as walls at one stage.
Greg. Would you be willing to consult remotely on a project where we have a similar request? I can send you video, photos and detail regarding the renovation.
The temporary wall layout would not work unless those studs are sheathed or braced by something in their weak axis as they will buckle. You can get creative with various angled braces, but sticking osb on them without too much nailing part of the way up may be the easiest way.
It might not work in every situation, but it worked for me in every situation I ran into. I don't see a need to use structural panel sheathing, but it's always going to be better to make your temporary supporting wall stronger, especially if you don't understand much about house framing and engineering.
can i move one of my garage web in the attic from the tilt position to vertical position so i can make a hole to transient through to the rest of the attic ?
I think I already answered your question email, but if you can figure out a way to create a different type of structural support, then there might not be a problem. Keep in mind that I cannot provide viewers with structural engineering advice, because I'm not a licensed structural engineer.
My house didn't have the middle support peice. The engineer said we can put the ridge beam below the existing ridge beam structure so the rafters will not be attached to the new ridge beam like this. I don't really understand what the new beam will be connected to. The beam will be supported by posts at the ends and one in the middle that goes to the basement.
The beam can go under the rafters, but should hold them up with either having them sit on top of the beam or some type of wall or bracing holding roof up. Ask the engineer to provide you with more information.
Awesome i really want to get of my cieling dry wall and build by walls on the way up where the room divides. Build a loft like storage with a ladder in every room with a ladder to climb up. Use foam to insulate and put big sky lights on the roof instead. And rerun the electric, pipes, and a/c vents neatly and make it look industrial
In the case of a poured floor, would it be a good idea to run another beam along the top of the existing outside wall to transfer the load along the entire wall corner to corner? Would that eliminate the need for massive point load footings?
I'm curious if steel brackets and flitch plates could serve the same purpose of a ridge beam. Maybe this is nonsense but I thought I'd at least explore the idea. In my case I have no ridge board, my rafters meet face to face. The idea is to make large 1/4" steel brackets with through bolts that bolt to the sides of the rafters where they meet at the top. These brackets would be following the rafter size and angle, basically the shape of a boomerang and around 1 foot long on each leg. Then bolt a flitch plate along the side of each rafter and mechanically tie it into the top brackets. This solution makes sense to me as an alternative because it seems the only problem with removing the rafter ties is the roof is now able to bow and the rafters could spread away from each other from the downward force and in turn push the walls outward. But with a solid mechanical connection at the top and flitched rafters I don't see how any bowing or pushing movement would be possible.
Most of the time you're not going to need rafter ties, ceiling joist or collar ties if you have a rigid beam and the structurally sized roof rafters. The ridge beam is actually going to prevent the walls from spreading.
Hit the nail on the head there would be failure, probably okay with timber frame but massonry would be a unacceptable. Ridge beam should be limit deflection to say 6mm to prevent that ruleing out use of timber alone. It's a stupid design two steel purlins limited to 6mm propping roof and splice into 3 section, also supporting floor is a much better design
That's a difficult question to answer. I only did this once and only had one customer ever ask to have it done. If you've already had a couple contractors and they have provided you with realistic and rational reasons why it can't be done on your particular project, then it might not be able to be done. You can always contact a structural engineer for more information.
Hello I have question regarding my second floor the staircase are currently 3 feet wide each step. I would like to make it 5 feet wide but I have a joint both on left and right of stairs stoping me from making it wider. What do you suggest I can do? Thanks
what would you have to change if you were only going to convert half the building to vaulted? How would you support the end of the lam beam in center of building?
I don't know if this is the question you're asking, but you can use a wall under the ridge for the top of the roof rafters to sit on or a cripple wall sitting on top of a beam that transfers the weight to another part of the building that can structurally support it.
It would all depend upon the layout and design of home. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer and cannot provide you with engineering information. Feel free to send me some pictures of the area and I will see if I can help.
How much would a 2 car garage vaulting cost- very rough estimate if you do all the work? I feel like it’s an out of reach dream idea for my garage to recording studio conversion but this video gives me hope (hopefully not false hope!!! Haha).
How would you break down the cost of a project like this? Great video! I may be working on a brick house raising the ceiling. Havent seen the house yet.
I would contact a contractor in your area if you're looking for building estimates. If you need more information about raising the ceiling, then email me some pictures and I'll see what I can do.
The window will need to be structurally reinforced to support the load and most of the time that's done with using larger window headers. For example if you have a 4 x 6, you might need to install a 4 x 10.
Dude you knocked this video out of the park, really great job
Glad you enjoyed it!
well done. clear instructions, no fluff, several useful tips that I wish I had known last year before lifting a 1000 lb beam into place!!
Stumbled across this quite by accident. I'm not a carpenter or engineer, by trade, but I've wanted to do this in my family room and connected kitchen for some time. Was told by carpenters that it wasn't possible, that the roof would likely collapse. That didn't make sense to me since you would likely start by sistering 2x6s or 8s to the rafter part of the truss.
I'm going to share your video with a local engineer and go from there.
Loved the video. Thank you for sharing. Larry Altman
Let us know what you come up with for the remodel design.
I remodeled a 100 year old condemned house and we did exactly this because the ridge was severely sagging. There were no trusses however but we cut loose all the original rafters and had attached new 2x6s onto them. We then jacked the new beam up into place literally pushing the original ridge beam out of the top of the roof. We used 12 ton bottle jacks on each end and had tripled the wall studs/posts under the jack points.
this was exactly what I was looking for, well explained and sound from the engineering side! Excellent! thanks so much!
You're welcome and I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for confirming that I am not insane. Sounds like an expensive project since I also plan to lower the garage ceiling at the same time.
Glad to help and thanks for the contribution.
I have a detached garage with unfinished walls and ceiling, that's framed exactly like the model '25 x '30. And this video is what I was looking for, been brainstorming how to raise the ceiling to use the garage as a work shop. Great video!!
I don't know if I have any videos on that, but you can always check out the website. They would probably be in the remodeling section under framing.
OMG, you just saved me a ton of headaches, once again!!! I was trying to figure out how to get a ridge beam up over the rafter ties, which are already 10' over the finish floor. man, i came up with some crazy medieval contraptions thatwould've made Davinci proud, but this is just ridiculously easy! Thanks agaiin!!! Love your videos!
You're absolutely welcome and comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated.
I found this video because I was pondering if it would be possible to convert our ceilings to a vaulted ceiling. I sort of expected it to be undesirable. Your way looks really nice and strong. Now I just have to get the money together to pay someone to do it. :) I'd like to think it's a DIY job, but not without a team of experienced workers to help do it. I know my limits, and this one is going as far as knowing what I want a contractor to do for me.
Same. I’m a DIY guy but this is something you pay a professional for.
Reminds me of that line from Dirty Harry… “A man has got to know his limitations.”
I’m curious, did you ever go through with this or get quotes?
@@Bryanfuel0 No, I didn't. It's a lot cheaper to just think about what could be done, rather than having it done. :)
When your spouse keeps on asking for vaulted ceilings in an old house, you simply play them this clip and also explain that the entire roof deck will need to be redone for your cold climate. Discussion over 😂
Ahaha that's how I got here 😢
It would be easier to sell and buy a new house with the ceiling you want.
@@HawkGTboy No. It's not such a difficult job, but it's a gut job on the inside. The issue is having the idea like he explained in this excellent video. You'd need an engineer to size the glue lam beam.
I had this exact situation in my house 25 years ago. It took me 5 years to figure it out 🤦♂️. Ended up with what he showed, except we cut a hole in the side table to slide the beam before touching the truss parts
Have a 36 x 20 attached garage. Great video, but my thoughts are to make that a giant room above. Might be almost as easy to take off the roof, remove the trusses, then frame conventionally. Cleaner approach but wasting the remaining years of the roof. Maybe the roof plywood could be salvaged?
Great talk about the conversion... I might add that the roof needs to be designed as a rigid diaphragm to more efficiently transfer lateral loads to the perimeter walls which will put limits to the length and height of the beam/post design. Also, might add that uplift may govern the design in some cases especially if one end is open, i.e. like a garage or patio
Sounds good to me. You do bring up a good point and that is the fact that there are other things to consider when doing any modifications to an existing structure.
Vid is very educational & informative for the layman as I am! thanks Greg, keep em coming!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
I found this channel while trying to figure out why every shed replacement I was looking at seemed to have no rafter ties or proper beam support. Drove me nuts. "They're just sheds" I guess they say. Well, if my original shed had been built correctly, I wouldn't be replacing it. 2 weeks later, I am going to build something that should likely support a locomotive on the roof.
This helped so much. I’ve been trying to engineer some thing in my head and have been getting paralysis from over analysis lol. I’m converting a 70s concession stand up above my race track into my temporary new home and future VRBO and I think this would just be awesome. Everything is tin at the moment And it needs some life to it
Exactly what I had in mind. Just needed an expert's explanation. Many thanks! 👍
I’d love to do this but it’s not a job that can be done while your family is living in the house! 🤪
Can you do this with only half of the trusses? For example if you wanted to cut out a space for a loft but didn't want to remove them all, just essentially remove 1/4 section.
Nice video, but, at 5:58 now that you've cut the center of 2x4s out there's nothing stopping the walls from being pushed out from the weight of the roof. Unless thats a slow process that happens over time, not a couple days?
Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge. So clear and precise. Such a blessing!
Glad it was helpful!
any thoughts on how to get the top rafter strap in across the top? alternatives like some kind of tie through the original ridge blocking?
What if your only replacing a section in the center with conventional framing, is there a way to support the ends without a post?
Very curious on this question too, but i doing think there’s a solution
What would be the process of adding a walkable floor to the upper section? I have a very large attic above my garage that I would love to covert into an actual living space, but it is trussed up. I am looking at doing this exact process but am unsure about how adding a floor to it would work. Thank you
So in the video you mention if you wanted to move the ridge blocks you'd need to remove the sheathing on the roof and re nail. I'd imagine at some point in depth into a project like this it would be easier and maybe more cost effective and less labor intensive to just strip the roof off and restart. Get pre engineered pre assembled trusses and just build a whole new roof. Am I correct on this thinking?
You bring up a good point and sometimes it will be easier, but it might not always be cheaper. There are a lot of things to take into consideration and doing a project like this and engineering will always be one of them. Heating and air-conditioning, electrical wires, plumbing and anything else that can be in the way, can create problems.
I guess that comes down to the value someone puts on thier time.
True, if you're going to do the job yourself, then time might not be an issue, but if you hire someone it might.
It's not as easy as going with prefab or custom trusses. As pointed by the author, one must consider AC unit mounted on roof, HVAC ducts running through attic, electrical attic wiring, and attic plumbing especially these days with PEX water lines. While a remodel is certainly "doable", expect to leave the house vacant 2 to 3 months and spend around $30k to $40k for a vaulted ceiling on an existing gable roof for a 1,400 SQ FT home.
EDIT: Keep in mind that the walls will need to be extended to meet with the height of the new vaulted ceiling or you will take the walls down and create an open floor plan.
@@danielmendoza1774 What do you mean when you say the walls will need to be extended? Do you mean you have to make them wider to maintain the original height where the ceiling meets the wall? And how could you take the walls down? I'm not understanding anything you said in the edit portion of your comment.
Make sure you check reactions on the beam ends. You might need to add a larger footing condition @ both ends of the run. Typical footings can only take so much load transfer, based on depth and width.
That's a very good point and even though this covers the framing, you can watch some of our newer videos for more information about footings on remodel projects like this one.
@@gregvancom worked in truss design for 35 years. It's all the things I go over with individuals excited to cut out their original flat ceilings. It's the small things that will really kill you for cost.
@@llew-AZ do you still do truss design?
@amyheist6745 Yep, I've been doing this forever. How do you know me? I have known so many Amy's over the years. Way more plus and minus. So you have that going for you.
@@llew-AZ I do not know you at all. I just have followed these comments as we want to convert our existing garage into a great room and want to vault the ceiling (without raising the roof)....just thought I'd pick your brain to see if it is possible.
If you need to take the roofing and sheathing off, would it be more efficient and faster to redo the framing with the ridge beam and rafters, or is this the most efficient way to deal with this kind of modification?
Does the situation/response change if I am also extending the roofline out?
To verify whether or not the project could be done more efficiently or faster, would depend upon the project. It will be up to you and your engineer to figure out what will actually provide the best results or save you the most money.
Fantastic Video. Have a client looking for this exact build. Now I can contact the engineers and move forward. Thank you so much!!!
Our pleasure!
Awesome video. Could I just modify the existing flat ceiling truss to a scissor truss, as opposed to a raising a ridge beam with a true vault and rafters?
I've never seen an existing truss remodeled. However, you can check with a local truss manufacture or structural engineer to see if they have some ideas.
How would you do an over hang on the ridge side? Make a longer beam, but what about the roof rafter,? Do you nail a 2by on the ends of the rafter tails and run it long?
If you have a supporting wall under the ridge or beam, then you can build the vaulted ceiling on one side. If this didn't answer your question, then provide more details.
I am about to do something similar. The structural engineer advised that we needed to put an entirely new beam basement and new Wally columns. Can you explain why this would impact the basement?
You have to install support posts to transfer new loads to foundation. You might need new footings also.
Does the ridge beam need to be 1 continuous piece? I'd love to do this in my 43' long house but getting a beam that long seems daunting.
You can place posts under ridge beams to reduce spans. You would need to check with engineer for more details.
Once you have the beam installed we can remove the rest of the trusses?
I wouldn't remove the sections of the trusses that are attached to the roof sheathing.
Thanks Greg. What is the best way to get the rafters in to my attic? I've removed the gypsum and insulation from my ceiling, I thought I could just slide them up but the middle wall is too high. Do you think I might be able to cut a small hole in the roof and get them in that way?
I don't have a method that would work on every project, but it sounds like you have a few obstacles in the way that might either need to be removed or like you said, a small home might need to be cut in the roofing and sheathing. Feel free to email me some pictures if you haven't figured it out already and I'll be glad to take a look at it.
What size board is recommended for the trusses. 2x6 or bigger and what size should the beam be. My room is 20x17 beam is 17ft.
You can contact an engineer for lumber sizes.
This looks like my present situation and I actually have the central walls… do i still need a ridge replacement?
You will if you currently have rafter ties.
For a 30+ ft span, it was cheaper for me to use 2x6x20 beams sistered at a vaulted angle, rather than move to a center beam by more than half. It gave me the added height, but also makes for an attic space to insulate which has helped keep the shop more bearable.
Hello can you tell me how make fit a rafter /2/ 2x12 when the house it’s finished and frame and it’s and my way walls.
This is super helpful. Thanks for making this video. I wonder how you would go about installing tongue and groove or shiplaps as a finish?
what will you do with the cut bottom chords?
With the supporting post would you need to have one in the basement underneath as well? Or just on main floor as shown in video
It all depends upon the design, but if you add a post to transfer weight above a floor, then there will need to be something below to continue transferring the weight to the foundation. I do have some more videos in the engineering section at our website that might be helpful.
@@gregvancom - is there a video on this topic right now? Adding a post which extends to the foundation
pretty cool, thanks for explaining that! It still boggles my mind that putting a giant heavy beam way up in the air somehow stops a structure from falling down. I know there's math, but it seems counter intuitive. Could you explain the physics/forces of how that beam works?
I'm not a structural engineer, but might be able to provide you with a video that will give you a little more information. I will post a link here when the video is done.
Thanks that would be awesome, and I would never hold you liable for anything, and would obviously seek professional advice in a contextual situation if I was ever planning/executing. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. Thanks!
You bet.
It’s all about thrust....if you vault and don’t have anything at the top to support the load a horizontal thrust will be applied at the top of the wall and the rafters want to push the walls out. This is the main point of ceiling joist to resist this outward thrust. Couple of problems here is adding a much larger concentrated load at each end of the new ridge beam that the existing footings more than likely cant support. Also by vaulting you can’t brace the gable end wall in the attic so you would have to come up with some special bracing or balloon frame the end wall.
It works because the ridge beam is held in place by columns on both ends that ideally extend down to the foundation.
The ceiling center can’t move downward because the beam is held up by said columns.
Some people could use rafter ties which have a look some people want as well. The beam isn’t really the glue holding anything up, it’s the columns though in this case
Hi Greg...good evening...excellent video. Where are u located...I really want to convert the general truss I have in the attic to Attic truss to get cathedral ceiling and transform Attic to living space. I am in South East Michigan.
Sounds like we are on opposite sides of the U.S.
@gregvancom Can u still help me located a builder who understands what you showed....when I talk to any general contractor they seems to think its not possible 🤔...Please work with me on my attic project
Is the beam necessary? Can't your new rafters just extend all the way up to touch on the crown?
Hi Greg, for the ridge beam conversion....structurally speaking....would you ever just use the the existing 2x4s from the trusses instead of adding rafters connected to them?
If you're talking about redesigning the truss and modifying it into a shape that would be used as an alternative to installing a ridge beam, then you would need some type of an approved design.
I was thinking of doing something like this, but I was concerned about aligning all the rafters so that the beam would lift into place but not leave a gap between the rafters and ridge beam. Normally you install the rafters individually to the ridge beam so a tight fit is easier to achieve, but here tolerances matter as you are fitting to many rafters at once.
Hey sir I have a question, would a beam in the middle of the roof be needed if only one room of the building is vaulted ceiling and everything else is flat ceiling? Every room will have ceiling joists and only one room will be vaulted.
Gonna go ahead and cross this off the ol DIY list
Exactly.
If I was placing the 2nd story on a 5/12 truss roof could I use open web floor trusses expanding the full width of structure (since the load factor with the current roof trusses is the outside walls of the structure) and install the floor trusses (32' long x 24" thick) from one side of the structure to the other side of the structure (outside walls) and then screw and glue every roof truss to the floor truss where they touch (every 18") and then remove the part of the roof truss that extends above the floor truss so that a standard framed room could be built on the floor joist trusses?
Also, the reason for the above keeping of the roof trusses and aligning the floor trusses next to them is so the ceiling will no fall down and because the coffered ceiling below them is attached to the bottom of the roof trusses.
You would need to check with a structural engineer for more information, but I have seen floor trusses span long distances like you're talking about.
I don't understand your question completely, but if you're suggesting that the roof trusses need to be vertically aligned with the roof trusses, then this would also need to be answered by an engineer. Feel free to rephrase your question if I didn't answer it.
The 2x4 wall you used to support the rafters is basically the hallway that runs through my house. I would like to ditch the beam all together. Is that possible. Would I still need to install the rafters. My house is 25ft wide. Hallway 4ft wide. I would really appreciate your response. Thank you
I can't think of any other way that would allow you to get rid of the main support ridge beam.
Can I leave the trusses alone and add 2x10 or 2x12 so I can hang stuff from my garage ceiling or so I can install storage above my garage?
As long as the additional building materials aren't connected to the roof framing trusses in a way that would create additional structural stress and they can support the additional weight, then I would say go for it.
@@gregvancom Ok. Another question: what do I do about these things if I put 2x10s or 2x12s up in my attic:
ua-cam.com/video/VjZssXBUHnA/v-deo.html&t=62
"These things don't have to be 48 inches on center" Do I just raise them up so they're on top of the new 2x12s?
What are those things even called?
Seems like this changes the lateral force along the outside walls after removing the bottom chord of the truss. Have you ever seen issues with the outside walls bowing or failing?
We have other videos on house framing you should watch. It's difficult to answer your question because I've never visited a project like this one or more decades after it was remodeled.
What if there is no existing beam (2x4 beam)
In the center of the roof ? Could i cut the very center after done with the support? To put the beam in..?
I think it might be impossible for me to bring a beam of that length in through our front door. Other than bringing in the beam from the side via a crane, is there another option? For example, could I use beams that are, say, 1/3rd of the length, as long as each end is supported by a post? I have a hallway wall running down the middle of the house in which the support posts could be located.
Yes, engineers use structural post to reduce the length of beams all the time. This might not help, but sometimes we go through windows with our wood beams.
@@gregvancom Thanks. One more question: My house is two stories. So, I'm guessing the joists between the floors are probably not built to be strong enough to support the post & beam, right? So, I'd either have to reinforce those floor joists or run the posts all the way down to the bottom floor, right?
Another option I've heard is to convert the trusses to scissor trusses. Seems like that might be easier, as it wouldn't require the post & beams. I know I wouldn't get as much height in that case, but are there any other drawbacks to that approach?
@@Skepilot Little late but you are bang on that those posts need to run to the basement and be set on their own concrete footing.
What you're proposing will not work if you need a decent R-factor insulation. R-49 requires 14" plus gap for airflow. Can you design something for that?
I don't have any videos on that yet, but larger insulation will require individual or multiple framing components like roof rafters to provide the space necessary or to find an insulation that will fit in smaller spaces. If it's for new construction or a home remodeling project, you might think about contacting a roof truss manufacturing company to provide you with the necessary framing components.
Is there a video to turn cathedral ceiling into bedroom?
So at the end you would remove the truss's remaining chord and ceiling joist and also the channel supports for raising the beam. The only thing that would remain from the truss would be the rafter part? Thanks.
Hi Greg. Thanks for the beam raising trick. Very DIY oriented. Bringing the topic of trusses and rafters, could you please explain using plywood gusset instead of metal connectors in trusses. Unfortunately there are no truss factories nor that kind of structural engineers over here. It will help me taking my carpentry skills to the next level. Especially that maximum lumber length here is 12'-10" which limits the run and the pitch when using rafters.
+Khalid Al-Bahi Bummer about the lumber lengths.
LOL. Tell me about it!! But, isn't engineering all about using what you have to build what you want.
Exactly!
Thanks for giving me some idea on what's involved. I'll probably pay someone to do it and stick with drywall and painting!!
Phenomenal information. Thanks for this.
Hi Greg,
I have a house with stupid flat metal roof. Now if the big rain , some water come though the ceiling and I can see the black mark in there. I want to change the flat roof to the fitched roof. Can you tell me where is your company workshop please. Thank you.
We don't provide construction services, sorry. I also don't provide recommendations for other contractors or construction services.
Hello, I am not a builder or contractor, nor do I know all of the technical terms (wish your video had labels for the structural parts so I can learn) however I have a few questions: I have an existing attached 24 x 24 ft garage (8' ceilings) with trusses similar to the ones in your video. We'd like to convert the garage into a great room with vaulted ceilings. I have been told that we will have to raise the roof. Question: would we be able to suggest this process (in the video) so we do not have to raise the roof? There is no mechanical or plumbing (only minor electric and insulation) in the attic. Would this process you show in your video remedy the need to raise the existing roof? I have done a little research and have found that raising a roof for a 24x24 garage can start at $23k and go upwards of $50K...If there is a way to get the same look (vaulted ceiling) without compromising the integrity of the building, but also saving money, I'd like to know if this is feasible in my situation? If you have an email I can certainly send some pics for you to look at and of course, I would have an engineer give the final okay...I'm just wondering if I do NOT have to raise the roof?
All this did was confirm that I will NOT be undertaking this project. Thanks!
I hear yeah:)
Wow, very clever (my highest compliment). I need to alter my engineered trusses to add space above a car lift in my 25X40' garage/shop. No one is interested; they tell me I have to replace the existing trusses with new engineered trusses. How do I find an engineer locally to design the alteration with your rafter method?
how much does this sort of thing cost? weighing the pros and cons of doing this versus just exposing the rafters, maybe painting or staining them
Check with local contractors for estimates.
Great video. How much do you think a project like this would cost today ? I know varies by region and such . I’m in Florida. Just looking for a general / reasonable idea of potential cost.
You would need to contact a contractor in your area for an estimate.
This is a fantastic video! I'm working on a 30' wide pole building with trusses 48"OC where the previous occupant cut out 4 trusses and "re-engineered" them to allow for motor-home clearance. I like the extra clearance so I have been considering engineered I joist until I came across this. Would it be better to use the I joists 48" OC the rafters 24"OC? Do you have a better suggestion where I can retain the ceiling space in this 16' area of the building?
Here's a link to our website for garage remodeling.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html
if you can't find what you're looking for then email me some pictures of your problem, but keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering information.
Well I guess I won't be doing this
D'andre Chesterfield 😂😂😂
Why not?
I came here to see if I could this in my garage. Left with the same thought 😂
At 6 minutes when you cutout the lower web, what prevents the outer walls from pushing out without having any collar ties?
The interior wall support studs should prevent the walls from spreading out, but there are no guarantees. The size of the project, length of the trusses and a variety of other things might require additional structural support braces.
I know this is an older video. But i was wondering if an engineered truss can be altered? Will this pass inspection?
The videos only a year old and if you're suggesting that something less than two years old is older, I must be ancient. Anyway, engineered trusses can only be altered or modified by approved plans from the manufacturer or an engineer and will only pass inspection if approved by your local building authorities, building departments or building inspectors.
Pre-engineered wood roof & floor trusses can be altered/ repaired & modified, but you will need a specific individual truss repair detail sealed by a structural engineer in the state the structure is in.
What does a job like this cost to do in 2 car garage?
What's going to keep the side walls from being pushed out? Especially in the middle where they are far from the end walls. The bottom of the trusses could have helped do that, but once they're removed, it seems there's only the stiffness of the walls.
That's a good question. The beam at the top that's used to support the ridge will prevent the walls from spreading. It can actually be one of the reasons why a larger beam might be required.
Ok, I think I get it. The beam carries the weight to its ends, rather than distributing it down the rafters to the side walls like conventional trusses. I definitely see the value in having a structural engineer, but I still like to understand how things work myself. Thanks for the reply!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Can this be performed on only a section of a house? I'd like to do this to the end of my house where the living room and kitchen is.
As long as you're working with a similar situation, then it might work just fine. Remember this video was only meant to provide viewers with something that might work.
Do you draw these designs I see? do you advise on different roof designs, etc? I want to raise my ceiling and the only way to do it is raise the walls or put a wall on top of my wall.
It sounds like you're on the right path, you would need to extend the walls. Don't forget to check out our website, the engineering, framing and framing repair section.www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html feel free to send us some pictures or drawings of what you have in mind and I will see if I can help.
Sorry for digging up an old video, but I was wondering if the ground to ceiling supports stay in place or if they are removed? I think you referred to them as walls at one stage.
They could be removed after all of the framing support members have been securely fastened.
Greg. Would you be willing to consult remotely on a project where we have a similar request? I can send you video, photos and detail regarding the renovation.
The temporary wall layout would not work unless those studs are sheathed or braced by something in their weak axis as they will buckle. You can get creative with various angled braces, but sticking osb on them without too much nailing part of the way up may be the easiest way.
It might not work in every situation, but it worked for me in every situation I ran into. I don't see a need to use structural panel sheathing, but it's always going to be better to make your temporary supporting wall stronger, especially if you don't understand much about house framing and engineering.
I wasn't trying to be mean and there are plenty of other ways to build a variety of different things. Anyway, what's up with boob a cocka.
can i move one of my garage web in the attic from the tilt position to vertical position so i can make a hole to transient through to the rest of the attic ?
I think I already answered your question email, but if you can figure out a way to create a different type of structural support, then there might not be a problem. Keep in mind that I cannot provide viewers with structural engineering advice, because I'm not a licensed structural engineer.
Thank you for your time in all you do,but I had seen this being your first video I hope to see more have a nice day. Catch you later.
My house didn't have the middle support peice. The engineer said we can put the ridge beam below the existing ridge beam structure so the rafters will not be attached to the new ridge beam like this. I don't really understand what the new beam will be connected to. The beam will be supported by posts at the ends and one in the middle that goes to the basement.
The beam can go under the rafters, but should hold them up with either having them sit on top of the beam or some type of wall or bracing holding roof up. Ask the engineer to provide you with more information.
Excellent video explanation. Thanks for sharing 👍
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
You did not mention this but I have to assume that this job only should be attempted when there are no tiles (cement) loading down the roof.
Awesome i really want to get of my cieling dry wall and build by walls on the way up where the room divides. Build a loft like storage with a ladder in every room with a ladder to climb up. Use foam to insulate and put big sky lights on the roof instead. And rerun the electric, pipes, and a/c vents neatly and make it look industrial
When do you pour concrete under the point loads you've created where previously there were none?
It would be good to do this before you set the posts and create a load, but it can be done afterwards, but it will usually be more work..
In the case of a poured floor, would it be a good idea to run another beam along the top of the existing outside wall to transfer the load along the entire wall corner to corner? Would that eliminate the need for massive point load footings?
Their is no need for massive point load footings.
@@favrefan4life80 why use that 4x4 post then if you dont need point load footings ?????????
Of course it needs a 4x4 or 2 2x4s nailed together to pick up the beam.
I'm curious if steel brackets and flitch plates could serve the same purpose of a ridge beam. Maybe this is nonsense but I thought I'd at least explore the idea. In my case I have no ridge board, my rafters meet face to face. The idea is to make large 1/4" steel brackets with through bolts that bolt to the sides of the rafters where they meet at the top. These brackets would be following the rafter size and angle, basically the shape of a boomerang and around 1 foot long on each leg. Then bolt a flitch plate along the side of each rafter and mechanically tie it into the top brackets. This solution makes sense to me as an alternative because it seems the only problem with removing the rafter ties is the roof is now able to bow and the rafters could spread away from each other from the downward force and in turn push the walls outward. But with a solid mechanical connection at the top and flitched rafters I don't see how any bowing or pushing movement would be possible.
Help us out with how we should insulate this type of ceiling and how can we create spacing for condensation and drywall. Exc.
I will put it on my list, but currently am about three months behind. I will place a link here when the video is completed.
What about collar ties? What keeps the load bearing walls from spreading apart now?
Most of the time you're not going to need rafter ties, ceiling joist or collar ties if you have a rigid beam and the structurally sized roof rafters. The ridge beam is actually going to prevent the walls from spreading.
Hit the nail on the head there would be failure, probably okay with timber frame but massonry would be a unacceptable. Ridge beam should be limit deflection to say 6mm to prevent that ruleing out use of timber alone. It's a stupid design two steel purlins limited to 6mm propping roof and splice into 3 section, also supporting floor is a much better design
How common is this type of conversion? Having trouble finding a contractor that even thinks this is possible. Thank You.
That's a difficult question to answer. I only did this once and only had one customer ever ask to have it done. If you've already had a couple contractors and they have provided you with realistic and rational reasons why it can't be done on your particular project, then it might not be able to be done. You can always contact a structural engineer for more information.
Good info! I don’t know what certain terms mean, but I get overall idea…
These are fantastic videos!! Thank you!
Hello
I have question regarding my second floor
the staircase are currently 3 feet wide each step. I would like to make it 5 feet wide but I have a joint both on left and right of stairs stoping me from making it wider. What do you suggest I can do?
Thanks
Send me a picture of your stairway and you can get our email address by visiting our website.
what would you have to change if you were only going to convert half the building to vaulted? How would you support the end of the lam beam in center of building?
You would need to use posts and beams. Send me a picture or a drawing of what you're talking about and I will see if I can make a video.
gregvancom I will do that. Thank you. just need a few more feet of head room for my vehicle lift.
You're welcome. I would love to see some pictures of your project after it's done.
Greg can I do the same ? I just saw this question and had the same issue. I was thinking cripple wall instead of ridge
I don't know if this is the question you're asking, but you can use a wall under the ridge for the top of the roof rafters to sit on or a cripple wall sitting on top of a beam that transfers the weight to another part of the building that can structurally support it.
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
You're welcome!
Awesome explanation. Thank you!
You are welcome!
Perfectly explained...
Thank you 🙂
Greg i have 8 ft ceilings 2 story house and I would like to add a 8 ft French door 4 leaf downstairs is it possible?
It would all depend upon the layout and design of home. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer and cannot provide you with engineering information. Feel free to send me some pictures of the area and I will see if I can help.
What's your email?
Visit our website and a link should be on the bottom. Click on the contact link for more information.
How much would a 2 car garage vaulting cost- very rough estimate if you do all the work? I feel like it’s an out of reach dream idea for my garage to recording studio conversion but this video gives me hope (hopefully not false hope!!! Haha).
I would suggest contacting a local contract for an estimate.
How would you break down the cost of a project like this? Great video! I may be working on a brick house raising the ceiling. Havent seen the house yet.
I would contact a contractor in your area if you're looking for building estimates. If you need more information about raising the ceiling, then email me some pictures and I'll see what I can do.
What if there is a window where the new beam vertical support needs to be?
The window will need to be structurally reinforced to support the load and most of the time that's done with using larger window headers. For example if you have a 4 x 6, you might need to install a 4 x 10.
Extremely well done. Than you!!
What would the cost be for this?
I would check with a local builder.
Looking for a video on how to do slopes ceilings
Very helpful - thanks!