The larger wheels look much better and more realistic than the originals which are a bit undersized. Nice work on the motor repair I didn’t know spares had been available to that level back then it’s a shame modern models can’t be fixed like that. Looking forward to seeing what amazing things you come up with next, all the best Rob
Thanks for this video I have a west county class amateur one of the wires has come from the windings to the brass top piece one that you have just fitted. Now I have seen this video. I will have a go of chasing the wire from the armature windings and I will resold the wiring to the brass top piece many thanks Colin.
Hi hand good afternoon just to let you now after watching your video on repairing a hornby dublo amateur, yes I’ve successfully soldered the wire to the windings to the top of the armature. It is now pulling all the right amps on my multimeter so once again, thank you very much for your help. Colin
Thoroughly enjoyable and informative. I'd rather watch sporadic quality content like your producing than being bombarded on a weekly basis by a load of waffle on reviews and opinions, enjoy your break.
Really good result with the armature! New commutator works a treat. I think the later X04 commutator is more prone to this, I have early 60s ones with hairline gaps and late 70s with gaps 1.5 mm wide! It really does make a noise and brush wear difference. I think we'd all like a small lathe like yours! The wheel swap looks very accurate compared. 6'9" in real life so makes it far more of a model than a toy. Thanks for another great video
I've noticed some funny gaps on commutators in XO-4 motors. I'm glad you liked seeing the wheels changed on the City loco. Take care, all the best to you
Smashing video on the commutator mr snooze. I love seeing ways to repair these old locos. Im always encouraged to have a go at things myself from watching your tutorials. The City looks so much better with the big wheels. Those and the 5 pole, shes quite the hotrod now. 😊
I concur...it does look good with bigger wheels..... good repair too, I once had to resolder a guitar pickup wire, very thin, that had broken.... No worries, just glad to see the content you post, when and as it happens... We're having autumn here in Australia... Have a safe, enjoyable trip....🙏😊
Thanks for watching, I hope your Autumn is nice. Soldering thin wires usually goes well so long as you get them tinned. I don't know if guitar pickup wires are enamel coated but getting them tinned can be an issue. Take care, all the best to you
I'm quite amazed that spare commutators were ever available and that you would have some on hand. That part of the repair was straightforward but how you straightened the shaft I'll never know. Stoke of Trent looks much better with the larger wheels. The prototype had 6'9" driving wheels, I wonder what your replacement wheels would scale out to. All the best with the up-coming trip. I'll look forward to seeing what you have for us next time. Regards, David.
Hello David, I seem to remember reading that the Hornby Dublo and Wrenn City wheels were undersized so hopefully these are nearer to proper scale. Careful bending after observing where the high point of the bend is restores things and it's easy to see when it's straight as it rotates in the lathe. Thanks for looking and I hope your spring brings nice conditions for you. Best regards to you
Interesting ! I’ve been wondering for a while if Castle wheelsets wouldn’t look better on the Dublo/Wrenn Princess Coronation. So now we know. Having said that on my 6234 blue Duchess of Abercorn build I just blackened the wheel rims. I wish I could post a photo, but really it looks very good. I wouldn’t do it to 6231 as she is in 100% original condition and is also apparently quite rare as she has the »Lug » casting error on the right hand side. But until I got to work in 6234 she was pretty much a scrapper. So no regrets. Have a good break Mr S!
I was just experimenting with those wheels, it turned out much better than I thought. Blackening those rims sounds an excellent idea. Best regards to you
Hi Mr. Snooze, A very nice and informative video.. Very enjoyable.. You are braver than me though. I don't think that I could ever tackle that job? Nice result and a nice smooth runner at the end.. Well done. I can't imagine where you obtained a replacement commutator from? Living in Britain must have it's bonus points , when it comes to spare parts? I will be very interested if you ever re-build a Triang armature? I get the impression that they may be a bit more difficult? Thank you for an enjoyable video.. Great to watch the layout at the end..
Thanks for watching, it's surprising what spares you can find here and there. I did a Tri-ang armature from a class 31 a while back. I rewound it and it was a success. If you search the channel it should show up. Take care, all the best to you
Very interesting and beautifully done repair. Anyone would think you had experience with tiny rotating components. I have had to re-solder two commutators, one went perfectly, the other not so, but ended up fine after some panic on my part😱. It's quite an exacting job. The larger wheels look nice and I can't tell if it makes the loco ride any higher or not, looks fine to me. Love the little lathe. Have a nice break and looking forward to more things. Have you given any thought to some basic landscaping? 😊
Thanks for watching, soldering these thin wires always goes well if they are clean and tinned well. I've had issues cleaning the enamel coating off these wires in the past leading to soldering issues. My wife is pushing for some significant changes to the garden but I assume you are wondering about the layout when you refer to landscaping 😊I think I might leave as is but if I ever used modern items I'd most definitely get into ballast and everything else. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnoozeHaha, yes definitely referring to the layout. For obvious reasons I didn't want to glue ballast all over my precious Super 4 track so I experimented with printed ballast paper, cut out and laid under the track. I got an image of some ballast gravel from a web site, copied and pasted it multiple times to make an A3 size sheet and had it printed out. It looks very convincing from 2 feet away 😊
G'day Mr Snooze.Another excellent 'how to do it video' thank yo.u I would imagine that replacement commutators are pretty difficult to find these days. Couple of queries if I may. Why do you square off the brush ends using up some of the brush and necessitating extra running in? Some Dublo brushes have a slotted end that I understood was to enable you to turn the brush after insertion to align the curved end with the commutator and even the solid carbon ones I would think would bed in fairly quickly irrespective of how the mated end meets the commutator. Also would love to see you rewind that X04 motor as I am attempting to rewind one after yet another viewing of your series on rewinding the 410 armature. I envy you your rain. We are entering our fourth dry month in West Aus. Be careful what you wish for! All the best. Jim Craven
Hello Jim, to be honest it's probably not necessary to square off brushes, it's just something I have always done to give them a new start to bed in. I find you hardly remove any material on the Wrenn / Dublo items, maybe a bit more on XO-4 though. I think I must just enjoy doing it. Thanks for looking, best regards to you
You know how to spoil "us"😁 "Heavy machine tooling" on the train set🥴 & a repair🤤 Held my breath on the desoldering🙄 been there before😱 On a point of order Mr. S. Dinner's for wimps😏 when it's all go on the train set😄👏👏👍👍
Hello, 'Careful bending after observing where the high point of the bend is restores things and it's easy to see when it's straight as it rotates in the lathe'. This sentence from a previous answer to nearly the same question as yours. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
I’ve got a Dublo 8F in need of some motor attention… Would you happen to have any wiring diagrams for Dublo/Wrenn Ringfield armatures? Trying to rewind the armature on my 8F, but it keeps shorting!
I'm pretty sure the are wound to a common connection at the base of the armature so only one wire to each commutator segment. so when you wind a coil leave the start of each coil at the bottom of the coil and when all three are done connect the bottom three wires together making sure to insulate from the shaft or laminations. Hope this helps. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Righto, will try that this weekend, I was originally following a tutorial by SMT Mainline, where he solders the wires in such a way they ground the plates to one another, that may have been the issue on my attempts, cheers!
Snooze: best video yet; the best of an outstanding bunch. Well done (don't get a big head). Hmm? None of the HD locos ever struck me as being toys. Either way probably it's all about how you use them. ua-cam.com/video/U1yKAtmEG8o/v-deo.html features a museum quality model of only artistic interest to us. Its sixty million billion dollars would buy a lot of Pal Meatybites! A r-e-a-l lot. The craftsmanship is spell-binding, but in its way no better than the wizards at Binns Road. However, no doubt the 'right' person could reduce it to a toy, and could do it by simply 'playing'. Reach for a peppermint. On another level, Dick Dilworth's comments re what he was going to do (and did) to the Big Boy on 'that 'hill' in Wyoming' comes to mind. I'll find them for you some time. My goodness: can you imagine the real thing running over your big toe? Certainly the activity and running you do has nothing 'toy' about it. Snooze, while you're still awake, do you think you can do something about those boiler bands flapping around in the breeze. Perhaps a little gum-glue from the local news agent. Try on an old transfer first; perhaps dilute with a bit of water. A top notch modeller told me that this way there's no need to gloss varnish prior to decalling. The tiny sheen producing air-bubbles are squeezed out as the glue flattens, or simply do not form. Here there would be no frosting anyway, but I wonder if it works? Does anyone know? If true decalling print just got a lot easier. The rust on the rotor shaft suggests the expansion rust implies could have stressed and cracked the commutator core. I wonder if rust was involved in Williams' comments below. (Can you see how useful this channel is, Snooze). Time would have been a problem, but in the absence of spares, I wonder if the piece could be mounted in a split mandrel (see Chris Pendlenton 'Wheel Derangements' in MRJ) and a new core made. Just be careful to contact the polymer manufacturer to find out what the stuff releases into the air when hot. If dangerous, ask for suggestions. Safety matters. We have to be able to 'see around corners' in these activities, and always remember that when we are dead and gone and everyone is cheering, an unsupervised kid might be the next one to get your model. Statistical theory tells us he has even chances of being average or below average IQ, and plays probably unsupervised. Test the heat characteristics of your models (modified or not), and know you have used failsafe materials. Are those spare coppers still available? Keep in mind some of the Wrenn used Triang commutators; easier to find. What did you do to polish that commutator? The timing is another question; does anyone know if a motor has a lag or lead built into it? My Wrenn 'City' has a brush bore quite out of square. It might be by design. The model runs like a Swiss watch and does not overheat (so far as I know). Thanks for your considerable efforts Snooze. Snooze: best video yet; the best of an outstanding bunch. Well done (don't get a big head). Hmm? None of the HD locos ever struck me as being toys. Either way probably it's all about how you use them. ua-cam.com/video/U1yKAtmEG8o/v-deo.html features a museum quality model of only artistic interest to us. Its sixty million billion dollars would buy a lot of Pal Meatybites! A r-e-a-l lot. The craftsmanship is spell-binding, but in its way no better than the wizards at Bins Road. However, no doubt the 'right' person could reduce it to a toy, and could do it by simply 'playing'. Dick Dilworth's comments re what he was going to do (and did) to the Big Boy on 'that 'hill' in Wyoming' comes to mind. I'll find them for you some time. My goodness: can you imagine the real thing running over your big toe? Certainly the activity and running you do has nothing 'toy' about it. Snooze, while you're still awake, do you think you can do something about those boiler bands flapping around in the breeze. Perhaps a little gum-glue from the local news agent. Try on an old transfer first; perhaps dilute with a bit of water. A top notch modeller told me that this way there's no need to gloss varnish prior to decalling. The tiny sheen producing air-bubbles are squeezed out as the glue flattens, or simply do not form. Here there would be no frosting anyway, but I wonder if it works? Does anyone know? If true decalling print just got a lot easier. The rust on the rotor shaft suggests the expansion rust implies could have stressed and cracked the commutator core. I wonder if rust was involved in Williams' comments below. (Can you see how useful this channel is, Snooze). Time would have been a problem, but in the absence of spares, I wonder if the piece could be mounted in a split mandrel (see Chris Pendlenton 'Wheel Derangements' in MRJ) and a new core made. Just be careful to contact the polymer manufacturer to find out what the stuff releases into the air when hot. If dangerous, ask for suggestions. Safety matters. We have to be able to 'see around corners' in these activities, and always remember that when we are dead and gone and everyone is cheering, an unsupervised kid might be the next one to get your model. Statistical theory tells us he has even chances of being average or below average IQ, and plays probably unsupervised. Test the heat characteristics of your models (modified or not), and know you have used failsafe materials. Are those spare coppers still available? Keep in mind some of the Wrenn used Triang commutators; easier to find. What did you do to polish that commutator? The timing is another question; does anyone know if a motor has a lag or lead built into it? My Wrenn 'City' has a brush bore quite out of square. It might be by design. The model runs like a Swiss watch and does not overheat (so far as I know). Thanks for your considerable efforts Snooze.
Hello Pete and thanks for your detailed comment. I have actually found quite some variation in commutator timings on Wrenn locos in the past. It's always something to check especially if you find an item that seems to run much better in one direction than the other. A quick careful timing adjustment has helped more than one motor in my small collection. Take care, best regards to you
![Wrenn Brighton Belle [Restoration] Maintenance and Electrical improvements](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6BLS_lj22Jg/mqdefault.jpg)
The larger wheels look much better and more realistic than the originals which are a bit undersized. Nice work on the motor repair I didn’t know spares had been available to that level back then it’s a shame modern models can’t be fixed like that.
Looking forward to seeing what amazing things you come up with next, all the best Rob
I can't remember where I got those commutators but it might have been at a show. Only one left now. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Those wheels look so much better. Spot on.
I'm pleased with how they look, thanks for watching, all the best to you
Good work.
Interesting to see it all stripped down. 👍
Thanks for watching this Mon, Best regards to you
Thanks for this video I have a west county class amateur one of the wires has come from the windings to the brass top piece one that you have just fitted. Now I have seen this video. I will have a go of chasing the wire from the armature windings and I will
resold the wiring to the brass top piece many thanks Colin.
I hope your soldering went well. Thanks for looking. All the best to you
Hi hand good afternoon just to let you now after watching your video on repairing a hornby dublo amateur, yes I’ve successfully soldered the wire to the
windings to the top of the armature. It is now pulling all the right amps on my multimeter so once again, thank you very much for your help. Colin
interesting and logical ideas, well executed, and well shown on camera, all trademarks of your channel. Well done and thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the kind words, take care and best regards to you
Excellent project, answered a lot of questions. Enjoy your break and take care.
Thanks for looking, you take care too, all the best to you
Thanks for sharing these really enjoyable videos, enjoy your trip, see you soon Ktf, J
Thanks for looking, best regards to you
Thoroughly enjoyable and informative. I'd rather watch sporadic quality content like your producing than being bombarded on a weekly basis by a load of waffle on reviews and opinions, enjoy your break.
Thanks for the kind comment, I look forward to making more videos soon. Best regards to you
Amazing work on that armature, looking forward to seeing more from the channel when you're back from your break all the best.
Thanks for looking, I'm glad you liked this, take care, all the best to you
Really good result with the armature! New commutator works a treat. I think the later X04 commutator is more prone to this, I have early 60s ones with hairline gaps and late 70s with gaps 1.5 mm wide! It really does make a noise and brush wear difference. I think we'd all like a small lathe like yours! The wheel swap looks very accurate compared. 6'9" in real life so makes it far more of a model than a toy.
Thanks for another great video
I've noticed some funny gaps on commutators in XO-4 motors. I'm glad you liked seeing the wheels changed on the City loco. Take care, all the best to you
Smashing video on the commutator mr snooze. I love seeing ways to repair these old locos.
Im always encouraged to have a go at things myself from watching your tutorials.
The City looks so much better with the big wheels.
Those and the 5 pole, shes quite the hotrod now. 😊
Thanks for looking, I agree about the City, I wish I had some more larger wheels for the others city locos I have. Take care, all the best to you
I concur...it does look good with bigger wheels..... good repair too, I once had to resolder a guitar pickup wire, very thin, that had broken....
No worries, just glad to see the content you post, when and as it happens...
We're having autumn here in Australia...
Have a safe, enjoyable trip....🙏😊
Thanks for watching, I hope your Autumn is nice. Soldering thin wires usually goes well so long as you get them tinned. I don't know if guitar pickup wires are enamel coated but getting them tinned can be an issue. Take care, all the best to you
I'm quite amazed that spare commutators were ever available and that you would have some on hand. That part of the repair was straightforward but how you straightened the shaft I'll never know.
Stoke of Trent looks much better with the larger wheels. The prototype had 6'9" driving wheels, I wonder what your replacement wheels would scale out to.
All the best with the up-coming trip. I'll look forward to seeing what you have for us next time.
Regards, David.
Hello David, I seem to remember reading that the Hornby Dublo and Wrenn City wheels were undersized so hopefully these are nearer to proper scale. Careful bending after observing where the high point of the bend is restores things and it's easy to see when it's straight as it rotates in the lathe. Thanks for looking and I hope your spring brings nice conditions for you. Best regards to you
I was glued to the screen, great stuff.
It's good to hear you found this watchable. Best regards to you
Interesting ! I’ve been wondering for a while if Castle wheelsets wouldn’t look better on the Dublo/Wrenn Princess Coronation. So now we know. Having said that on my 6234 blue Duchess of Abercorn build I just blackened the wheel rims. I wish I could post a photo, but really it looks very good. I wouldn’t do it to 6231 as she is in 100% original condition and is also apparently quite rare as she has the »Lug » casting error on the right hand side. But until I got to work in 6234 she was pretty much a scrapper. So no regrets.
Have a good break Mr S!
I was just experimenting with those wheels, it turned out much better than I thought. Blackening those rims sounds an excellent idea. Best regards to you
Hi Mr. Snooze, A very nice and informative video.. Very enjoyable.. You are braver than me though. I don't think that I could ever tackle that job? Nice result and a nice smooth runner at the end.. Well done.
I can't imagine where you obtained a replacement commutator from? Living in Britain must have it's bonus points , when it comes to spare parts? I will be very interested if you ever re-build a Triang armature? I get the impression that they may be a bit more difficult?
Thank you for an enjoyable video.. Great to watch the layout at the end..
Thanks for watching, it's surprising what spares you can find here and there. I did a Tri-ang armature from a class 31 a while back. I rewound it and it was a success. If you search the channel it should show up. Take care, all the best to you
Very interesting and beautifully done repair. Anyone would think you had experience with tiny rotating components. I have had to re-solder two commutators, one went perfectly, the other not so, but ended up fine after some panic on my part😱. It's quite an exacting job. The larger wheels look nice and I can't tell if it makes the loco ride any higher or not, looks fine to me. Love the little lathe. Have a nice break and looking forward to more things. Have you given any thought to some basic landscaping? 😊
Thanks for watching, soldering these thin wires always goes well if they are clean and tinned well. I've had issues cleaning the enamel coating off these wires in the past leading to soldering issues. My wife is pushing for some significant changes to the garden but I assume you are wondering about the layout when you refer to landscaping 😊I think I might leave as is but if I ever used modern items I'd most definitely get into ballast and everything else. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnoozeHaha, yes definitely referring to the layout. For obvious reasons I didn't want to glue ballast all over my precious Super 4 track so I experimented with printed ballast paper, cut out and laid under the track. I got an image of some ballast gravel from a web site, copied and pasted it multiple times to make an A3 size sheet and had it printed out. It looks very convincing from 2 feet away 😊
G'day Mr Snooze.Another excellent 'how to do it video' thank yo.u I would imagine that replacement commutators are pretty difficult to find these days. Couple of queries if I may. Why do you square off the brush ends using up some of the brush and necessitating extra running in? Some Dublo brushes have a slotted end that I understood was to enable you to turn the brush after insertion to align the curved end with the commutator and even the solid carbon ones I would think would bed in fairly quickly irrespective of how the mated end meets the commutator. Also would love to see you rewind that X04 motor as I am attempting to rewind one after yet another viewing of your series on rewinding the 410 armature. I envy you your rain. We are entering our fourth dry month in West Aus. Be careful what you wish for! All the best. Jim Craven
Hello Jim, to be honest it's probably not necessary to square off brushes, it's just something I have always done to give them a new start to bed in. I find you hardly remove any material on the Wrenn / Dublo items, maybe a bit more on XO-4 though. I think I must just enjoy doing it. Thanks for looking, best regards to you
You know how to spoil "us"😁 "Heavy machine tooling" on the train set🥴 & a repair🤤 Held my breath on the desoldering🙄 been there before😱
On a point of order Mr. S. Dinner's for wimps😏 when it's all go on the train set😄👏👏👍👍
I start making operating errors if I get hungry, maybe I should hide snacks near the layout. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
😁
Hi Mr S. can you share your technique to straighten a bent armature shaft ?
Hello, 'Careful bending after observing where the high point of the bend is restores things and it's easy to see when it's straight as it rotates in the lathe'. This sentence from a previous answer to nearly the same question as yours. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
I’ve got a Dublo 8F in need of some motor attention… Would you happen to have any wiring diagrams for Dublo/Wrenn Ringfield armatures? Trying to rewind the armature on my 8F, but it keeps shorting!
I'm pretty sure the are wound to a common connection at the base of the armature so only one wire to each commutator segment. so when you wind a coil leave the start of each coil at the bottom of the coil and when all three are done connect the bottom three wires together making sure to insulate from the shaft or laminations. Hope this helps. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Righto, will try that this weekend, I was originally following a tutorial by SMT Mainline, where he solders the wires in such a way they ground the plates to one another, that may have been the issue on my attempts, cheers!
Snooze: best video yet; the best of an outstanding bunch. Well done (don't get a big head).
Hmm? None of the HD locos ever struck me as being toys. Either way probably it's all about how you use them. ua-cam.com/video/U1yKAtmEG8o/v-deo.html features a museum quality model of only artistic interest to us. Its sixty million billion dollars would buy a lot of Pal Meatybites! A r-e-a-l lot. The craftsmanship is spell-binding, but in its way no better than the wizards at Binns Road. However, no doubt the 'right' person could reduce it to a toy, and could do it by simply 'playing'. Reach for a peppermint. On another level, Dick Dilworth's comments re what he was going to do (and did) to the Big Boy on 'that 'hill' in Wyoming' comes to mind. I'll find them for you some time. My goodness: can you imagine the real thing running over your big toe?
Certainly the activity and running you do has nothing 'toy' about it.
Snooze, while you're still awake, do you think you can do something about those boiler bands flapping around in the breeze. Perhaps a little gum-glue from the local news agent. Try on an old transfer first; perhaps dilute with a bit of water. A top notch modeller told me that this way there's no need to gloss varnish prior to decalling. The tiny sheen producing air-bubbles are squeezed out as the glue flattens, or simply do not form. Here there would be no frosting anyway, but I wonder if it works? Does anyone know? If true decalling print just got a lot easier.
The rust on the rotor shaft suggests the expansion rust implies could have stressed and cracked the commutator core. I wonder if rust was involved in Williams' comments below. (Can you see how useful this channel is, Snooze). Time would have been a problem, but in the absence of spares, I wonder if the piece could be mounted in a split mandrel (see Chris Pendlenton 'Wheel Derangements' in MRJ) and a new core made. Just be careful to contact the polymer manufacturer to find out what the stuff releases into the air when hot. If dangerous, ask for suggestions. Safety matters. We have to be able to 'see around corners' in these activities, and always remember that when we are dead and gone and everyone is cheering, an unsupervised kid might be the next one to get your model. Statistical theory tells us he has even chances of being average or below average IQ, and plays probably unsupervised. Test the heat characteristics of your models (modified or not), and know you have used failsafe materials.
Are those spare coppers still available? Keep in mind some of the Wrenn used Triang commutators; easier to find.
What did you do to polish that commutator?
The timing is another question; does anyone know if a motor has a lag or lead built into it? My Wrenn 'City' has a brush bore quite out of square. It might be by design. The model runs like a Swiss watch and does not overheat (so far as I know).
Thanks for your considerable efforts Snooze.
Snooze: best video yet; the best of an outstanding bunch. Well done (don't get a big head).
Hmm? None of the HD locos ever struck me as being toys. Either way probably it's all about how you use them. ua-cam.com/video/U1yKAtmEG8o/v-deo.html features a museum quality model of only artistic interest to us. Its sixty million billion dollars would buy a lot of Pal Meatybites! A r-e-a-l lot. The craftsmanship is spell-binding, but in its way no better than the wizards at Bins Road. However, no doubt the 'right' person could reduce it to a toy, and could do it by simply 'playing'. Dick Dilworth's comments re what he was going to do (and did) to the Big Boy on 'that 'hill' in Wyoming' comes to mind. I'll find them for you some time. My goodness: can you imagine the real thing running over your big toe?
Certainly the activity and running you do has nothing 'toy' about it.
Snooze, while you're still awake, do you think you can do something about those boiler bands flapping around in the breeze. Perhaps a little gum-glue from the local news agent. Try on an old transfer first; perhaps dilute with a bit of water. A top notch modeller told me that this way there's no need to gloss varnish prior to decalling. The tiny sheen producing air-bubbles are squeezed out as the glue flattens, or simply do not form. Here there would be no frosting anyway, but I wonder if it works? Does anyone know? If true decalling print just got a lot easier.
The rust on the rotor shaft suggests the expansion rust implies could have stressed and cracked the commutator core. I wonder if rust was involved in Williams' comments below. (Can you see how useful this channel is, Snooze). Time would have been a problem, but in the absence of spares, I wonder if the piece could be mounted in a split mandrel (see Chris Pendlenton 'Wheel Derangements' in MRJ) and a new core made. Just be careful to contact the polymer manufacturer to find out what the stuff releases into the air when hot. If dangerous, ask for suggestions. Safety matters. We have to be able to 'see around corners' in these activities, and always remember that when we are dead and gone and everyone is cheering, an unsupervised kid might be the next one to get your model. Statistical theory tells us he has even chances of being average or below average IQ, and plays probably unsupervised. Test the heat characteristics of your models (modified or not), and know you have used failsafe materials.
Are those spare coppers still available? Keep in mind some of the Wrenn used Triang commutators; easier to find.
What did you do to polish that commutator?
The timing is another question; does anyone know if a motor has a lag or lead built into it? My Wrenn 'City' has a brush bore quite out of square. It might be by design. The model runs like a Swiss watch and does not overheat (so far as I know).
Thanks for your considerable efforts Snooze.
Hello Pete and thanks for your detailed comment. I have actually found quite some variation in commutator timings on Wrenn locos in the past. It's always something to check especially if you find an item that seems to run much better in one direction than the other. A quick careful timing adjustment has helped more than one motor in my small collection. Take care, best regards to you
All the best for your time away. Pete@@MrSnooze