Thanks for video! This fixed me right up. Had an annoying creak on an f-si when climbing and getting on it hard. In taking it apart, it does seem there is more play in the chainring/crank connection than should be but locktite, lube and tightening it all down nailed it. I didn’t need to mess with the bearings other than a good cleaning and lube for slipping the spindle through. I should add this is all after the LBS failed...
Wrong diagnosis. BB30s creak because the BB axle frets within the bearing inner races. Refit it with bearing fit compound on the areas within the inner races
I'm at 20000km on a factory GDP press fit. It using a crush tube between the bearings and the bearings in the cups were pressed in the correct distance to match the crank spindle
I have the Cannondale Synapse 2018 with the BB30 and FSA cogs. I need to change the cogs and have never done this. I have my kt013 being delivered. Do you have a video on this or know where to go for one? Plus di you recommend a bearing replacement for a bit of extra ease of cycling?
thanks again - yes, i imagine it has no effect (the etched side) but for what it is worth, cannondale shows the rough side facing out - this might be incidental
Thx mate, I think my cassette is loose. When I grab the cassette there is a slight movement under load that causes a crack which obviously goes like supersonic right to the crank system. I check the lock cap and maybe a spacer. Hope thats it. Keep it up thx !
Nice work! I had a Marin in the shop a few years ago that was creaking under load and the sound was coming from the BB. We stripped that bike about 3-4 times trying to find the problem, replaced many parts too and in the end it turned out to be the rear mech hanger of all things!! LOL
Thanks! I was about to take my bike in for creaking. It was coming from the bottom bracket but didn't have the sound I heard the last time I had a BB creak. It should have dawned on me that it would be the spider ring.
You're the first guy i see using lock tite. I think i'll try that possible solution. I noticed that my crank axle was all scratched from the bearing assembly rotating on it so that might stop that also.
hi, i've tried with the green locktite for cylindric parts, i must say its a bit better but still creaking when i push verry hard. think i have to look furder for a better solution, thanks for the video!
I agree with the blue loctite on the Si crank spider, but the spindle walking in the bearings is what causes the creaks in BB30-PF30 bottom brackets. Well, that's my opinion anyway. The best thing you can do is to remove the spring or wavey washer and fill the void with spacers so there's no sideplay, but the bearings are not side loaded as well. Looking at your spindle in the video, you can see witness marks from spindle movement within the bearings. Grease silences it for a month or two, at least until you ride in wet conditions, some grit gets pulled in with the water, the grease breaks down, then the steel bearing on the aluminum spindle will start to creak.
Yeah I agree but what I've found is a lot of customers I deal with often point to the BB as the primary for the creak but 9/10 times its the spider/crank interface. I often use Loctite on the bearings too opposed to grease and removing the spring washer can lead to over loading the bearings if you are not too careful as there is no inner bearing spacer to prevent the inner race from drifting inwards and causing binding on the bearings.
Yes, the Si crank/spider interface can creak, but probably less than 15% of all BB30-PF30 frames use that crank, well at least from the shop I work at and we're a Cannondale dealer. Personally, I wouldn't recommend loctite between the bearing and the spindle. For one, that has the potential to be a nightmare to pull the crank for service. Secondly, it's pretty easy for some of the loctite to get onto the seal portion of the bearing inside the bottom bracket. I've actually seen it seize up bearings because of this. I've used loctite a few times on cheap Chinese carbon BB30 frames when the bearing is very loose in the BB shell, but between the spindle/bearing interface, you're just asking for future issues. As far as the spring washer goes, think logically of it's purpose. When installed correctly with the correct amount of compression, it's basically pulling the crank to the side it's mounted on. It's easy because you don't have to be super accurate on how many shim spacers are used, well, at least within a mm or two. The thing is, it will be side loading the bearings slightly by itself, more so if the spring washer is nearly flat when fully torqued. BB30 crank arms only go so far, regardless of torque, onto the crank spindle. If you take the time to find the exact space needed, you can use spacer shims without the spring washer. Think of it like a Zipp type hub with the adjuster. When tightened correctly, there is a sweet spot where there is no play, and the hub spins freely. Adjusted too tight, the bearings are side loaded since there's no shoulder on the axle, and the hub doesn't spin freely. Too loose, you have play. Think about what a Zipp hub would feel like if there was a spring washer between the adjuster and the bearing and you were instructed to tighten the adjuster until the spring was 2/3 of the way compressed! Sorry for such a long winded reply. I've been dealing with these BB's on a daily basis for over 10 years and I'm just trying to share what I've found.
Lol that was a long reply. I never would or have put loctite on the axle, only on BB shell to secure the bearing in place (bearing retaining loctite). I too work at a bike shop that sells Cannondales too and been fixing all types of bike for over 15 years in our busy shop. I know what you are saying about the spacers, I've done it in the past but from my experiments I still prefer to use the wave washer and compress it as the crank arm needs to top out on the axle to achieve the interference fit, if it was like a rotor crank or sram crank which have the adjustable preload then yeah the shim option is best. Cheers
Trying to decide between Trek Emonda ALR disc and CAAD 13 disc. CAAD has BB30 and Trek a Shimano press fit. Any views on which bike? The Cannondale is pretty heavy which was disappointing and dearer than the Trek. Any thoughts apprciated.
slipnpitch Trek, The older Cannondale CAAD10 was a great bike but they have made them too woolly now and they don’t ride like the treks. The trek BB is easier to live with too
My big brother decided to go with the Trek. They have better customer support than Cannondale which can be a pain. He is 6'6" and 220lbs and has no trouble with his bottom bracket. I'm not a Cannondale hater or a Trek fanboy either. I've owned Cannondales since 1991.
i switched to a 5-50nm "stahlwille" last year. they may be a bit more expensive outside germany but - just believe me you will never want anything else...
I poured some engine oil down inside the seat post and let it soak through the BB and out onto a rag, turning the cranks and tilting the frame left then right, creak disappeared.
how long have you been doing this method? does it still work how often you have to put oil down the seat post? Also when you put oil down seat post how does it come out the BB?
But if its the BB cups that are loose, all you did was mask the problem. Your frame will still be wearing out and getting sloppy. Don't use motor oil on carbon, it has some crazy detergents in it, as well as zinc boron lead
I ended up throwing out the Cannondale BB30 PF assembly on my 2012 Evo SuperSix DureAce. Lovely bike, but hated the creaking. The non-drive side was a good tight fit, but the drive side was oval. Bought a Wheels MFG threaded BB, loctited in to the frame and have never looked back. For $100, problem solved and is now smoother and better aligned than from the factory. I would have gone Hambini, but they are too expensive.
@@paulgorrill3550 ah ok thanks Paul. That is typically what I’ve found it was in the past I must say but doesn’t appear to be that for me this time. The hunt continues...
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Ermmm this has nothing to do with the video buh I have a carrera a the headset is out of place and my washer has snapped so is the washer causing it or something else
Correct but 242 properties are perfect for this application as it reduces osculation and allows for easy removal. One thin I have been using instead of this is Recotseal Tru-blu which is awesome
My crank is cracking loud when i go out off the saddle on a brand new CD Slate. When I put load on the crank arms they crack and move maybe a millimeter or so forward. Is this the Spider and what can I do to maintain the spider when I remove everything ? Cleaning as you showed in your vid and hope it gets away ? Thank you very much mate, we are not alone ;-)
Firstly if its new then take it back to the shop you got from and explain to them the problems you are experiencing, they should fix it free of charge. There should be no movement in the cranks at all and if there is then there is an underlying problem such as an issue with the axle splines or spider splines. If all is ok there then it's a matter of stripping everything out, cleaning, greasing and re-installing. Make sure you have the correct spacers between the crank arms and BB Bearings. Hope that helps.
Not had time to pull it apart but I am sure the chain tensioner has broke so it'll need a top end rebuild. It's had the Cal love so the oil seal has been addressed.
On a separate note I've recently discovered Hambinis videos. Undoubtedly he's a good engineer but all he has to offer it seems is ripping brands to shreds and so far has only endorsed a French brand "Look" and i gather he's of French/British descent?? Does he have anything positive to add as so far he's put me off all my bike hopefuls :/
slipnpitch yeah I find Hambini frustrating as he is clearly an engineer but has a narrow minded way of thinking. He only seems to criticise but never offers solutions which is not a sign of a good engineer in my book. He does like Look but then the carbon expert Luescher Teknik also does not and finds many issues with them when he cuts them up on hi YT channel. It’s so easy to criticise a mass manufactured cycle frames to that of aerospace engineering, the two are so different in terms of quality control. I agree with him that they are expensive and the quality is shit sometimes but he’s only finding poor examples, ones that made it through the net. If you want Hambini quality you need to be looking at Bastion frames and then you are talking aerospace pricing.
"Good engineer". How can you tell? From videos he's edited? Understanding a concept and paying someone to turn parts on a lathe doesn't make you an engineer.
Aa Nonymuss Not always an issue with the BB as I stated in the video but often an issue with removable spiders. Hambini does make some nice products for you to buy, I’m just offering free advice to help address a problem a lot of people overlook
The creaking can come from 5 or more locations. The BB hole in the frame is the only manufacturing "issue". If you took 2 minutes to analyse the hambimbo or wheels manufacturing"nice products" to solve this problem you'd see the issue. So you've got a hotdog down a hallway situation. The hallways too large and its not round. You can't put a bigger hotdog in there, so their solution is to crush the hotdog at the ends of the hallway and keep it still by slamming the doors on it. A) your BB frame was not designed to be crushed in a vice, that's what these "nice products" do B) the hallway is still sloppy, all your pedaling forces are still acting on thin air. All you did was move the forces to the faces of the BB instead of being evenly distributed within the hall way. The only solution is to make the BB hole round again. Using an epoxy in the frame with new slightly undersized press fit cups pushed in and aligned. Once cured remove these cups and install a new or your old SRAM shimano cups/BB. Problem solved forever. Even a backyard mechanic can do it
Thanks for video! This fixed me right up. Had an annoying creak on an f-si when climbing and getting on it hard. In taking it apart, it does seem there is more play in the chainring/crank connection than should be but locktite, lube and tightening it all down nailed it. I didn’t need to mess with the bearings other than a good cleaning and lube for slipping the spindle through. I should add this is all after the LBS failed...
Wrong diagnosis. BB30s creak because the BB axle frets within the bearing inner races. Refit it with bearing fit compound on the areas within the inner races
Mine starts creaking after 600 km now. Thank you cannondale. Will replace the bearings with skf bearings next days
1100km here, its so horrible... I wish I knew this before buying a 2000 euro cannondale bike. NEVER again.
1500km here, it sucks, and most mechanics here is sucked also
2000km here, a 4000€ Cannondale setup. Not cool.
I'm at 20000km on a factory GDP press fit. It using a crush tube between the bearings and the bearings in the cups were pressed in the correct distance to match the crank spindle
Your tip on the spider worked on my Cannondale fatty - thanks very much!
"We're not talking about your mom here" LOL
I have the Cannondale Synapse 2018 with the BB30 and FSA cogs. I need to change the cogs and have never done this. I have my kt013 being delivered. Do you have a video on this or know where to go for one? Plus di you recommend a bearing replacement for a bit of extra ease of cycling?
thanks again - yes, i imagine it has no effect (the etched side) but for what it is worth, cannondale shows the rough side facing out - this might be incidental
Thx mate, I think my cassette is loose. When I grab the cassette there is a slight movement under load that causes a crack which obviously goes like supersonic right to the crank system. I check the lock cap and maybe a spacer. Hope thats it. Keep it up thx !
Nice work! I had a Marin in the shop a few years ago that was creaking under load and the sound was coming from the BB. We stripped that bike about 3-4 times trying to find the problem, replaced many parts too and in the end it turned out to be the rear mech hanger of all things!! LOL
Thanks! I was about to take my bike in for creaking. It was coming from the bottom bracket but didn't have the sound I heard the last time I had a BB creak. It should have dawned on me that it would be the spider ring.
You're the first guy i see using lock tite. I think i'll try that possible solution. I noticed that my crank axle was all scratched from the bearing assembly rotating on it so that might stop that also.
Loc-tite 242 is the recommended assembly compound for that interface--recommended by Cannondale.
I have a knocking sound coming from around there when pedalling , any idea what that might be? great video mate
ExMachina could be the cleats or pedals.
cassette or hub driver
thank you, excellent video. This fixed my ongoing problem.
hi, i've tried with the green locktite for cylindric parts, i must say its a bit better but still creaking when i push verry hard. think i have to look furder for a better solution, thanks for the video!
Thanks for the tips. Re the light gray plastic/nylon shim. Does the rough side go on facing in or out?
doesn't mater
Always keep your Loctite and chain lube in a separate place
Lol, are talking from experience
Pro Tip! LoL
🤣🤣🤣
Aprilia SXV behind, I had a same motorcycle (550)
I agree with the blue loctite on the Si crank spider, but the spindle walking in the bearings is what causes the creaks in BB30-PF30 bottom brackets. Well, that's my opinion anyway. The best thing you can do is to remove the spring or wavey washer and fill the void with spacers so there's no sideplay, but the bearings are not side loaded as well.
Looking at your spindle in the video, you can see witness marks from spindle movement within the bearings. Grease silences it for a month or two, at least until you ride in wet conditions, some grit gets pulled in with the water, the grease breaks down, then the steel bearing on the aluminum spindle will start to creak.
Yeah I agree but what I've found is a lot of customers I deal with often point to the BB as the primary for the creak but 9/10 times its the spider/crank interface. I often use Loctite on the bearings too opposed to grease and removing the spring washer can lead to over loading the bearings if you are not too careful as there is no inner bearing spacer to prevent the inner race from drifting inwards and causing binding on the bearings.
Yes, the Si crank/spider interface can creak, but probably less than 15% of all BB30-PF30 frames use that crank, well at least from the shop I work at and we're a Cannondale dealer. Personally, I wouldn't recommend loctite between the bearing and the spindle. For one, that has the potential to be a nightmare to pull the crank for service. Secondly, it's pretty easy for some of the loctite to get onto the seal portion of the bearing inside the bottom bracket. I've actually seen it seize up bearings because of this. I've used loctite a few times on cheap Chinese carbon BB30 frames when the bearing is very loose in the BB shell, but between the spindle/bearing interface, you're just asking for future issues.
As far as the spring washer goes, think logically of it's purpose. When installed correctly with the correct amount of compression, it's basically pulling the crank to the side it's mounted on. It's easy because you don't have to be super accurate on how many shim spacers are used, well, at least within a mm or two.
The thing is, it will be side loading the bearings slightly by itself, more so if the spring washer is nearly flat when fully torqued.
BB30 crank arms only go so far, regardless of torque, onto the crank spindle. If you take the time to find the exact space needed, you can use spacer shims without the spring washer. Think of it like a Zipp type hub with the adjuster. When tightened correctly, there is a sweet spot where there is no play, and the hub spins freely. Adjusted too tight, the bearings are side loaded since there's no shoulder on the axle, and the hub doesn't spin freely. Too loose, you have play. Think about what a Zipp hub would feel like if there was a spring washer between the adjuster and the bearing and you were instructed to tighten the adjuster until the spring was 2/3 of the way compressed!
Sorry for such a long winded reply. I've been dealing with these BB's on a daily basis for over 10 years and I'm just trying to share what I've found.
Lol that was a long reply. I never would or have put loctite on the axle, only on BB shell to secure the bearing in place (bearing retaining loctite). I too work at a bike shop that sells Cannondales too and been fixing all types of bike for over 15 years in our busy shop. I know what you are saying about the spacers, I've done it in the past but from my experiments I still prefer to use the wave washer and compress it as the crank arm needs to top out on the axle to achieve the interference fit, if it was like a rotor crank or sram crank which have the adjustable preload then yeah the shim option is best. Cheers
@@JoeyMesa can i ask something. My wave washer nearly flat when I tighten my si crank arm. Its that i need to replace new wave washer?
@@AMWChannel that's better than it being open. Ideally you can fill the gap completely with perfect thickness washers/shims
Trying to decide between Trek Emonda ALR disc and CAAD 13 disc. CAAD has BB30 and Trek a Shimano press fit. Any views on which bike? The Cannondale is pretty heavy which was disappointing and dearer than the Trek. Any thoughts apprciated.
slipnpitch Trek, The older Cannondale CAAD10 was a great bike but they have made them too woolly now and they don’t ride like the treks. The trek BB is easier to live with too
@@highcarbrider Cheers for the thoughts - much appreciated
My big brother decided to go with the Trek. They have better customer support than Cannondale which can be a pain. He is 6'6" and 220lbs and has no trouble with his bottom bracket. I'm not a Cannondale hater or a Trek fanboy either. I've owned Cannondales since 1991.
@@DaveCM Thanks for the info. I decided on the Trek and collect it this week. Im in the UK. Lookin forward to it!
@@slipnpitch1894 congratulations!
You better not be talking about my mom! Ha! Good video.
Good tips thanks, what torque wrench do you have ?
I think the one I used was a Norbar one if not it would have been a Teng
i switched to a 5-50nm "stahlwille" last year. they may be a bit more expensive outside germany but - just believe me you will never want anything else...
I poured some engine oil down inside the seat post and let it soak through the BB and out onto a rag, turning the cranks and tilting the frame left then right, creak disappeared.
how long have you been doing this method? does it still work how often you have to put oil down the seat post? Also when you put oil down seat post how does it come out the BB?
But if its the BB cups that are loose, all you did was mask the problem. Your frame will still be wearing out and getting sloppy.
Don't use motor oil on carbon, it has some crazy detergents in it, as well as zinc boron lead
I ended up throwing out the Cannondale BB30 PF assembly on my 2012 Evo SuperSix DureAce. Lovely bike, but hated the creaking. The non-drive side was a good tight fit, but the drive side was oval.
Bought a Wheels MFG threaded BB, loctited in to the frame and have never looked back. For $100, problem solved and is now smoother and better aligned than from the factory. I would have gone Hambini, but they are too expensive.
WHERE'S THE DRAMA! ;)
just kidding, good vid mate. I probably should do something about my creaking BB!
I'll see what I can fabricate for you lol
Reasons to stick with Shimano. ;)
-_-
Eat Plants I
Great vid. I have click from mine every revolution..any ideas? Cheers!
Paul Gorrill check your cranks are not touching the front mech or front mech cable. If not check the bearing condition
@@highcarbrider Great thanks I'll take a look!
@@paulgorrill3550 did you resolve this Paul? I have clicking from the crank area as well. Not yet found what it is.
@@russellscott1151 it was worn pedals!🤣
@@paulgorrill3550 ah ok thanks Paul. That is typically what I’ve found it was in the past I must say but doesn’t appear to be that for me this time. The hunt continues...
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Ermmm this has nothing to do with the video buh I have a carrera a the headset is out of place and my washer has snapped so is the washer causing it or something else
No green at the start on BB.
But at the end there is a green colour and no explaination of it??
Patrick Mclaughlin oh sorry man, that’s just the bearing cover
What about on shimano tiagra cranks?
No, this will not work on those cranks. If you shimano cranks are creaking check the cranks for cracks, bolts are tight and BB is installed correctly
Do not use Loctite 242 as this is a threadlocker, you need to be using loctite 609 which is a retaining compound!
Correct but 242 properties are perfect for this application as it reduces osculation and allows for easy removal. One thin I have been using instead of this is Recotseal Tru-blu which is awesome
My crank is cracking loud when i go out off the saddle on a brand new CD Slate. When I put load on the crank arms they crack and move maybe a millimeter or so forward. Is this the Spider and what can I do to maintain the spider when I remove everything ? Cleaning as you showed in your vid and hope it gets away ? Thank you very much mate, we are not alone ;-)
Firstly if its new then take it back to the shop you got from and explain to them the problems you are experiencing, they should fix it free of charge. There should be no movement in the cranks at all and if there is then there is an underlying problem such as an issue with the axle splines or spider splines. If all is ok there then it's a matter of stripping everything out, cleaning, greasing and re-installing. Make sure you have the correct spacers between the crank arms and BB Bearings. Hope that helps.
You beauty.
What is the difference between loctite 242 and 641
Fredy Mena 242 is a thread lock to prevent nuts from vibrating off etc. 641 is a bearing retainer for retaining cylindrical parts
Thank you ..
Wanna sell the sxv?
steb it's for sale but she's not well....
Whats up with it?
Not had time to pull it apart but I am sure the chain tensioner has broke so it'll need a top end rebuild. It's had the Cal love so the oil seal has been addressed.
On a separate note I've recently discovered Hambinis videos. Undoubtedly he's a good engineer but all he has to offer it seems is ripping brands to shreds and so far has only endorsed a French brand "Look" and i gather he's of French/British descent?? Does he have anything positive to add as so far he's put me off all my bike hopefuls :/
slipnpitch yeah I find Hambini frustrating as he is clearly an engineer but has a narrow minded way of thinking. He only seems to criticise but never offers solutions which is not a sign of a good engineer in my book. He does like Look but then the carbon expert Luescher Teknik also does not and finds many issues with them when he cuts them up on hi YT channel. It’s so easy to criticise a mass manufactured cycle frames to that of aerospace engineering, the two are so different in terms of quality control. I agree with him that they are expensive and the quality is shit sometimes but he’s only finding poor examples, ones that made it through the net. If you want Hambini quality you need to be looking at Bastion frames and then you are talking aerospace pricing.
@Maciej Jan Długosz Are you high or pissed?
"Good engineer". How can you tell? From videos he's edited? Understanding a concept and paying someone to turn parts on a lathe doesn't make you an engineer.
perfect video，im so crazy for my bike，cannondale synapse UT，shit bb30，shit noise😂😂
Simple
You just assume everyone has the same crank system even though we use bb30 and cannondale bikes? maybe some of us have gross hammer crankset.
Look at Hambini as this issue with the BB is known. It’s a poor manufacturing issue!
Aa Nonymuss Not always an issue with the BB as I stated in the video but often an issue with removable spiders. Hambini does make some nice products for you to buy, I’m just offering free advice to help address a problem a lot of people overlook
The creaking can come from 5 or more locations. The BB hole in the frame is the only manufacturing "issue".
If you took 2 minutes to analyse the hambimbo or wheels manufacturing"nice products" to solve this problem you'd see the issue.
So you've got a hotdog down a hallway situation. The hallways too large and its not round. You can't put a bigger hotdog in there, so their solution is to crush the hotdog at the ends of the hallway and keep it still by slamming the doors on it.
A) your BB frame was not designed to be crushed in a vice, that's what these "nice products" do
B) the hallway is still sloppy, all your pedaling forces are still acting on thin air. All you did was move the forces to the faces of the BB instead of being evenly distributed within the hall way.
The only solution is to make the BB hole round again. Using an epoxy in the frame with new slightly undersized press fit cups pushed in and aligned. Once cured remove these cups and install a new or your old SRAM shimano cups/BB. Problem solved forever. Even a backyard mechanic can do it
JR
Please next time use the gloves!
Girts Riekstins hahaha is that a fetish 😂 I generally do but didn’t making this vid but will do in the future 😉👍
Ok. This method work with sram xx1? Where use Direct Mount Chainring.
Girts Riekstins yes indeed 👍