Excellent! I had to work with most of the Loctite products before I retired, especially 609. Make sure you use the 609 here to allow removal later if needed. In the old days before we had Loctite 609 we often used......clear nail polish! Seriously! Dont know if it would work here as it has acetone and I would not want it to contact an epoxy-carbon frame. Also your application of the 609 is right on. Too many people apply way too much and it then glops out everywhere (like perhaps into the bearings here). In this application you only need a film of it like you applied . I also have to commend you on talking about the cure time! Most people say it 'dries' in 24 hours. There is no drying, it is a chemical reaction and thus it cures. Finally, this chemical reaction takes place anaerobically, so when you are done do not squeeze the bottle before capping it to get the air out 'so the bottle lasts longer' like I have often seen. Just use it, wipe off the bottle threads if any spilled, and put the cap back on. You have great videos.
Nice job on the video - very well done. After replacing the bot bracket bearings, most of the remaining creak on my bike went away after greasing and re-torquing the chain ring bolts. I also filed down a small burr (1/2mm high) on one of the rings where it contacted the spider.
I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress! I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv. The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit! Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.
I absolutely hate press fit BBs! Last year I bought a bike which had that and almost immediately it started creaking. After returning it to manufacturer for a fix and waiting far longer than I would have liked, it still was creaking. So I just returned it and got myself a much cheaper used mountain bike with normal Hollowtech II bottom bracket that is easy to remove and work with and never creaks! I hope threaded brackets will make a come back cause threadless ones are impractical and harder to maintain.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe. Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it. So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
I have a 2008, Scott Addict R1 with a BSA BB and a SRAM Force GXP 2x11, 175 crankset. I have never, not even one time, had a creaky BB. Maybe, and I'm jus thinking out loud here, **maybe** the old threaded BB was the best way to go in the beginning? I do think the new Chris King T47 standard is excellent. After all, it is threaded.
bad idea for carbon frames because the loctide makes it even harder to remove the bottom bracket at some time and i feel bad for that carbon alu shell epoxy
Loctite 609 makes it impossible to remove the cups once the compound sets properly as the bond can only be released under high temperature, min. 150 deg C, which will damage the epoxy resin directly in contact with the shell :(.
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO. Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
11:34 - Please, don't encourage them! We have enough standards already! I honestly don't see what the advantage of all the pressfit systems over threaded external cups is anyway. The threaded external BB's were a massive improvement over the older cartridges (with the square taper axles and separate cranks). Beyond that, it seems like they're "innovating" just for the sake of marketing.
Some of it is so they can manufacturer to lower tolerances. Press fit allows a much wider variance so they don't have to scrap as many frames. Threaded aren't without their failings. But as they don't allow very much variance to the "correct" sizes, so you don't often see poorly manufactured frames make it to market. So everyone thinks it's a better standard when really it's more down to the quality control.... At least that's my understanding of it
@@johnystrange665 yup, I'm a fan of his work. I've also learned that bike manufacturers are bad enough at laying up carbon that I wouldn't trust them to implement a pressfit BB, and I'd rather they stick to threaded, even if there's some more play in it. And I know that if I ever buy a bike with a pressfit BB, I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to fix it. Since my lathe is still broken, I'm happy with my threaded one for now.
Instead of using Loctite, buy a threaded pressfit bottom bracket like a Token Ninja or Wheels MFG or something else. Loctite is not a good idea, if you need to replace it. It could be a pain to release it again, after using Loctite. I owned a bike where the owner before did it and I don't tell what I called him, as I tried to push out the bottom bracket...
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
DO NOT use bearings that you have knocked out, they have micro dents from being wacked no matter how even pressure you use, always replace bearings that you have knocked out!
I never seen anyone applying Loctite on spinde! Unfortunately bike manufacturers are selling shit quality frames with poor tolerances. I was struggling with brand new Focus Cayo just few weeks after purchase. After 3 various tries of various BB PF30 replacement (including Loctite, finally I fitted PraxisWorks expanding BB system, which fixed issue (I had to replace the whole Sram crank system to Shimano 24mm spindle). Shell openings are not round in 99% of frames, there are drilled separately in factory aren't centric (even worse). Best frames are Time and LOOK.
Evil executive bike company meeting: " Ok guys we need to come up with a plan to make billions of $$$$ in bearing sales" evil laughter in meeting office.
Will this possibly cause the bearings to stay on the crank versus staying in the frame during disassembly? I'm always concerned because I don"t have a bearing puller if they should get stuck on the crank, especially the drive side bearing.
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
Actually it happened to me today got ready started ride and i noticed the noise had no choice but to complete my exercise but i don't recommend this soon as you notice some weird noises and creaks fix it ASAP or take the bike to a local bikes shope
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike. I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels. Probably the trough axle that was dry. On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals. Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case. My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
My bike never creaks on the road but when it is on the trainer the bottom bracket always makes this noise on every pedal stroke when I put power down 😢 bike shop says no problem. I know there is a problem. Exhausted
Yes it works well for a while but deforms under the alternating load stresses which means the cup/bearing will move ever so slightly again yet it may still not creak. Loctite stops the movement.
Locktite is the worst thing to use. You'll have a hard time getting that off for repairs, or if you wanna upgrade. Heat softens metal, and cold hardens it. So everytime you ride your bike what ever the weather, this will happen. And if left untreat for more the two or three mouths you will get slight wear and tear. You need to maintain it with grease only. Using locktite is the worst. If you take your bike apart and see grease, then regrease it with fresh grease. Do'nt put other magical things on, coz you will make matters worse over time, and.may strugle to even get it off. But hey, i can't tell you what to do. Do what ever you wanna do.
Yes, I had that problem once, and now the bottom bracket problem. It is good to check that first because the creaking from the cassette sounds similar to a bottom bracket creaking problem and both tend to occur at regular intervals with the pedaling cadence.
For your information. I've just received the first onepiece converter, from PF30 to 386EVO, from Hambini Engineering. I opted for a onepiece sleeve enabling you to replace the bearings yourself. Could not find one on the market, so Hambini made me a custom one. As I have an almost all black Cannondale Supersix EVO HiMod, I had it anodized in black locally. I bought the carbon primer and retaining compound from Park Tools. The primer, AP-1, equals Loctite 7649, the retaining compound RC-1 equals Loctite 680. From Park Tools they are pretty costly, so if you can find Loctite products cheaper, buy them instead. Installing cups are provided by Hambini, you just need a homemade press tool like the one shown in the video above, only with a longer threaded rod as you start wider, sleeve and shell width. Rgr
@@gokaygs Fully OK. Sometimes I can have a clicking sound, but I think it´s the pedals, Speedplays, crying for new bearings, or a antifriction lubrication.. I´d buy again if facing same problem, the onepiece design must be better than anything twopiece. Rgr
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
I once was told never use rubbing alcohol as many brands contain some amount of baby oil. This will leave behind a "film" . If you get denatured alcohol from a drug store ..your better off. I also use q-tip cotton swabs instead of a little paint brush for application.. no clean up and inexpensive.. good vid tho..
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Having worked in automotive/racing, I'm a bit shocked that you are using green as that is extremely hard to remove if ever desired in the future. In the wrong spot, you will need to use a lot of heat to help break the bond. Blue is what I will be trying soon as I'm having this issue myself now....I'll report back later on my results. Thanks!
@Bebo Ok...I guess with less surface area it wont be as big of an issue as if it was a thread as you point out...I'll give it the benefit then as I've never tried. Cheers.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
Praxis convert to threaded bottom, Press Fit is slowly going away it was a very dumb idea to begin with as even very expensive frames do not have the holes machine properly.
Press Fit cups that set on each side are prone to creaking. Get a nice locking Press Fit bottom from Praxxis, RaceFace or others that thread together in the middle making one continuous piece. I have multiple bikes with these type of locking bottoms and never have had a creak without using any Locktite.
I have done exactly as you have demonstrated in this video some time ago. I am now going to upgrade to a 2 piece thread together outboard system. i am struggling to get the axel of the crank out. do i literally just give it a good whack with a rubber mallet? Thanks
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Thanks for this video! You've really explained this well. I've been searching for various instructional videos on bike repair lately and I'm glad to say this is it. I've just ordered the bottom bracket removal tool so now I know exactly what I need to do.
Perfect Video, Thank you so much,😊 you not just told the solution you also told it's mechanism and how it Damaged by the time, That's very knowledgeable😊😊
The more recent videos about this discuss the contact area of the pedal spindle, with the inner race of the bearings. You can sometimes see marking on the axle where it mates with the bearing, you can actually this at 9mins and 8 seconds in this video. Apparently fine grit finds its way there, or lack of lube, one of the causes of creaking. Interestingly that doesn't seem to happen on threaded set ups.
6:54 I don't know if I'd put that much Loctite on... I used some bearing retaining compound of theirs-I'm not quite sure if it was 609-and it held like hell. Trying to get the bearing out later I had to "gently" heat and beat to get the bearing out of the housing. I don't know you might have put exactly the right amount on but I'd like to know if you have any experience removing something that you've put in with Loctite 609 since I know I was shocked with how hard the process was when I used it. Thanks for the great video; cheers.
Bikes creak, rattle and vibrate with noises everywhere, not just the BB. Unless it is a safety issue, forget about it and just ride. I don't even hear my tinnitus.
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
Literally after the first 20 seconds of the video it has helped me identify and confirm the issue with my bike... I have a carbon bike and thought there might be a frame issue. But after hearing the creak from your bottom bracket, it's exactly the same as mine.
609 is quite strong stuff. If you want to use some milder compound that still does a lot to remove creaking use loctite 641. If you need something better than 609 use 638. If it creaks with 638 correctly applied with primer it's time for a new frame or oversized bearings/cups or screw together bb. I found working with 609 to be a pain. It's much thinner than the other stuff so I'd be really careful to get any close to the bearing seal lip. That means use it much more sparingly when in direct contact with the bearing. When applying to the cup inside the excess gets shoved very close to the seal lip = bad. Also when applying to the inside of the inner race it's also quite close. Thin is the key. When you remove the bearings you'll wish you never used 609 😂. First try a dry fit, then 641 (preferably primered), then 609, then 638. If the bearings are ceramic and use smaller balls, extracting bearings installed with 609 might need to be "pressed out". Hammering will just crush the bearings and the outer race can stay stuck in the shell = bad.
Hi Mike, I'm a retired Loctite industrial rep who is a roadie. (32 years of blissful working with OEM's and maintenance pro's) Anyway, your recommendation of 641 is correct. It has roughly half the shear strength of 609. It should be the first option for this kind of application. 638 on the other hand should be avoided at all costs. 638 used to be the strongest retaining compound we make. Now with product formula upgrades 680 is stronger. That said 638 is probably too thick to get carried properly into a press fit. It was really meant for slip fits. Same goes for 680. Also, you mention primer but this is also a really important point. We make 3 primers. The two most common are SF 7649 and SF 7471. Of the two 7471 is the one I'd suggest. The reason is 7649 kicks and reacts very quickly. It could start curing once the resin touches the primed surface. Given that the shell is aluminum and the cups look to be anodized (maybe Oz can confirm) the 7471 will really ensure it cures on these unreactive surfaces. Remember, Loctite resins re anaerobic. That means they cure when trapped between ferrous metal surfaces and the air is removed. None of the surfaces are ferrous in the video so curing could take a long time, maybe 72 hours. Full cure would be 6 hours with 7471 and the parts Oz is using. I pasted a link of the TDS. If you go to page 2 you'll see a primer chart. The curves show you how quickly priming and no priming works. Anyway, I love seeing how people fix BB issues. I'd had a few in my day. Thanks to Oz for the video post. Cheers.
Hi there, it's nice to see people reading all these comments. If you're asking whether 5910 would be a good use for this application, the answer is no. There are several reasons. First, 5910 is a oxime (non-corrosive/non-acetic acid) based silicone designed for automotive OEM gasketing applications on stamped parts like oil pans. It has a really high oil tolerance. However for press fit applications like this it would be too thick to get carried into the joint. In fact most of it would get squeezed out during the press. Second, it is an RTV cure. Meaning it uses moisture to cure not anaerobic curing like 609 or 641. There would be so little moisture in that joint it could take up to 7 days or longer to cure. Finally, silicones are designed to be flexible and elastic. Maybe they have 100 psi of shear strength. In this application you need at least 1500 or more to hold the BB bracket. So if you did use it and actually get it together I'm pretty sure the BB would move and eventually fail. So Steve (Oz cycling) has used the correct stuff and I even like the way he applied it to both surfaces. Testing has shown that you get 100% coverage between the parts when you apply it to both sides not one. Anyway, hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers.@@cyclopenguin
Good luck if you ever need to remove the bottom bracket shell when using high strength loctite. You will probably need to heat it and that is not a good idea for carbon frames. I will choose a better safe than sorry medium or even better low strength retaining compound.
Problem is, the label on the Loctite 609 says "medium-strength", but the technical data sheet says "high-strenght" and use temperature of 250 deg C to release the bond. Ouch! No epoxy resin will survive that I am afraid.
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Good to hear. They couldn't be universally bad and still be in business. I had multiple FSA Mega Exo BBs on a hardtail MTB and I would be lucky to get 3 months out of them before they got gritty and grumbly, including the top end unit in the series. Stupidly expensive compared to the Shimano equivalents. I can't say they were unreliable as I came to learn this was entirely predictable. Not worth the risk for me.
Exactly. Seals were very poorly designed. Shaft was also wrong size - .05mm bigger than Shimano, meaning Shimano BB could not be substituted. Also had a FSA handlebar failure just before Christmas. Fortunately my son was OK. Too many issues for me to consider spending my own money for FSA product in the future.
Haha wait why dentists?? And I don't even know what's so great about them anyway, they save a few grams at best and are a tiny bit stiffer supposedly. But how stuff are they really if they creak? Creaking means lateral movement, aka not stiff enough.
@@S4dReality funny coincidence! Though Idk if I like Hambini, the guy clearly is a qualified professional, but he has the ego of a demi god and I don't trust people like him to admit it when they're wrong. Anyway I skipped through the video and he shows a badly misaligned bottom bracket shell and shows how threaded BBs can be used to mask such problems. But can it really? In his video it was so bad that he had to use a mallet to put the crankset in! The bikes I've worked on, you can just push the crank arm gently by hand. It would be obvious when the BB shell is badly misaligned. I don't think that's a point against threaded BB. If it was, then Hambini wouldn't be selling conversion kits to allign PF BBs using a threaded adapter (or whatever he sells, haven't seen his channel in a while). If anything, threaded BBs help to perfectly hide and smooth out the effects of small tolerance mistakes or small misalignment problems which are very common in bike frames. Something press fit BBs can't do, hence they creak on anything but a perfectly manufactured BB shell. He also talks about how it costs more to make the threaded shell on carbon bikes (carbon wouldn't be as catchy of a material if it was called what it really is btw, which is reinforced plastic). But he forgets that making the tighter tolerances required for a perfect PF shell costs even more money due to stricter QA procedures. Otherwise if you're sensible and buy an alu or steel bike, a threaded shell is always going to be the cheaper option. And unless the bike frame is very poorly made, it shouldn't have any noticeable problems. Or at least that's my understanding of the subject based on personal experience and what I read/saw/heard over the past couple of years since I became passionate about bike maintenance! So yes, with my own money, I would never opt for a press fit bottom bracket.
I have a titanium frame with pressfit. If you spec the build right to begin with you should never have to experience a creaky BB. I used a one piece shell from BBInfinite and in the two years I've been riding tons of miles not a single problem to even worry about. The Shimano crank spins like a top when I spin the cranks. If your frame is the type that has shoulders the bearing stops against, I'm not familiar with all the brands, then you can't use a one piece BB and therefore your screwed, get rid of that frame. I think Cannondale uses a ring that clips into a groove for the bearing to stop against so you should still be able to push a one piece BB through. Screw all that work of using a loctite compound because you still have the issue of misalignment and your cranks still won't spin freely. Watched the video to the end and when he spun the cranks I could see the resistance.
@@TheRoadrunner11 well the story goes, they earn enough to buy a new bike everytime the bb goes, but Id add they have the skills and tech to endure their bb shell is perfectly round. Actually my dentist road an old school steel frame!
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.
Excellent! I had to work with most of the Loctite products before I retired, especially 609. Make sure you use the 609 here to allow removal later if needed. In the old days before we had Loctite 609 we often used......clear nail polish! Seriously! Dont know if it would work here as it has acetone and I would not want it to contact an epoxy-carbon frame. Also your application of the 609 is right on. Too many people apply way too much and it then glops out everywhere (like perhaps into the bearings here). In this application you only need a film of it like you applied . I also have to commend you on talking about the cure time! Most people say it 'dries' in 24 hours. There is no drying, it is a chemical reaction and thus it cures. Finally, this chemical reaction takes place anaerobically, so when you are done do not squeeze the bottle before capping it to get the air out 'so the bottle lasts longer' like I have often seen. Just use it, wipe off the bottle threads if any spilled, and put the cap back on. You have great videos.
I've used nail polish for years on screws to keep them from coming loose.
Nice job on the video - very well done. After replacing the bot bracket bearings, most of the remaining creak on my bike went away after greasing and re-torquing the chain ring bolts. I also filed down a small burr (1/2mm high) on one of the rings where it contacted the spider.
Oh man that must be such a nice feeling. Every time I try and fix my bike I gets worse or something else breaks. 😢
I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
@@ollieb9875 nice to know it's not just me.
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
Lol me too
Don’t forget a primer as anaerobic adhesives will fuse any carbon it touches ;)
I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress!
I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv.
The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit!
Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.
I absolutely hate press fit BBs! Last year I bought a bike which had that and almost immediately it started creaking. After returning it to manufacturer for a fix and waiting far longer than I would have liked, it still was creaking. So I just returned it and got myself a much cheaper used mountain bike with normal Hollowtech II bottom bracket that is easy to remove and work with and never creaks! I hope threaded brackets will make a come back cause threadless ones are impractical and harder to maintain.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens
But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
Out of interest, what make is your frame?
The cycling Industry is crazy, put loctite in a Botton Bracket? really? threathed BB is the best system in a bike... Best regards.
tapping shoe laces was annoying me today till I realised and tied them different
I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe.
Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it.
So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
Ha,yeh,in my rusty ol shed. Nice that you guys ride your bikes too. Thanx again Joe 😎
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
I have a 2008, Scott Addict R1 with a BSA BB and a SRAM Force GXP 2x11, 175 crankset. I have never, not even one time, had a creaky BB. Maybe, and I'm jus thinking out loud here, **maybe** the old threaded BB was the best way to go in the beginning? I do think the new Chris King T47 standard is excellent. After all, it is threaded.
bad idea for carbon frames because the loctide makes it even harder to remove the bottom bracket at some time and i feel bad for that carbon alu shell epoxy
Loctite 609 makes it impossible to remove the cups once the compound sets properly as the bond can only be released under high temperature, min. 150 deg C, which will damage the epoxy resin directly in contact with the shell :(.
you're the Bob Ross of bikes
make nice even strokes, breath deep and relax.
awesome tips.....
Bravo, excelente... gracias amigo.
My BB30 drove me to near madness🤪 Changed to a Praxis conversion and therapy sorted😁 Great Vid
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO.
Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@rcg9573 how to purchase BB hambini?
Sorry im new to a bike world
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
11:34 - Please, don't encourage them! We have enough standards already!
I honestly don't see what the advantage of all the pressfit systems over threaded external cups is anyway. The threaded external BB's were a massive improvement over the older cartridges (with the square taper axles and separate cranks). Beyond that, it seems like they're "innovating" just for the sake of marketing.
Some of it is so they can manufacturer to lower tolerances. Press fit allows a much wider variance so they don't have to scrap as many frames. Threaded aren't without their failings. But as they don't allow very much variance to the "correct" sizes, so you don't often see poorly manufactured frames make it to market. So everyone thinks it's a better standard when really it's more down to the quality control....
At least that's my understanding of it
Look at Hambini and he will explain all in great detail.
@@johnystrange665 yup, I'm a fan of his work. I've also learned that bike manufacturers are bad enough at laying up carbon that I wouldn't trust them to implement a pressfit BB, and I'd rather they stick to threaded, even if there's some more play in it.
And I know that if I ever buy a bike with a pressfit BB, I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to fix it. Since my lathe is still broken, I'm happy with my threaded one for now.
Instead of using Loctite, buy a threaded pressfit bottom bracket like a Token Ninja or Wheels MFG or something else. Loctite is not a good idea, if you need to replace it. It could be a pain to release it again, after using Loctite.
I owned a bike where the owner before did it and I don't tell what I called him, as I tried to push out the bottom bracket...
Thanks for sharing
NO! If you hear it from the BB, then it is the BB. Not the stem, spoke, saddle, seatpost or shit. It is the BB.
I don't even have the same crank setup and I still watched the whole video. haha! Excellent video.
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
Oh dear. Well at least you found the problem and may have saved yourself an accident if the tubing came apart whilst you were riding.
Update: In The US Loctite is now branded as Permatex in retail locations, while wholesale industrial supplies still sell loctite .
DO NOT use bearings that you have knocked out, they have micro dents from being wacked no matter how even pressure you use, always replace bearings that you have knocked out!
Agree
You can’t tell me what to do.
@@markcavandish1295 🤣
Thanks nick. I would have never known that
I never seen anyone applying Loctite on spinde!
Unfortunately bike manufacturers are selling shit quality frames with poor tolerances. I was struggling with brand new Focus Cayo just few weeks after purchase. After 3 various tries of various BB PF30 replacement (including Loctite, finally I fitted PraxisWorks expanding BB system, which fixed issue (I had to replace the whole Sram crank system to Shimano 24mm spindle). Shell openings are not round in 99% of frames, there are drilled separately in factory aren't centric (even worse). Best frames are Time and LOOK.
Hambini or BBInfinite one piece BB
Evil executive bike company meeting: " Ok guys we need to come up with a plan to make billions of $$$$ in bearing sales" evil laughter in meeting office.
Will this possibly cause the bearings to stay on the crank versus staying in the frame during disassembly? I'm always concerned because I don"t have a bearing puller if they should get stuck on the crank, especially the drive side bearing.
+Devery Andrews No,they will remain in the frame Devery. Loctite is just like a strong glue...it does allow you to remove the glued parts
Thanks for the reply. I had never seen Loctite used on the inner bearing surface where it contacts the crank, only grease.
Yes pls don’t use loctite on the axle, mine stayed “glued” to the axle and was a royal PITA to take out, I damaged
my chainring from doing this
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
Fcuk it off. Not worth the stress.
Great vid. Thanks so much for posting this! I hear TREK are returning to threaded BB's.
This is why i use a sealed bottom bracket but i also own a 500$ hybrid bike though
Actually it happened to me today got ready started ride and i noticed the noise had no choice but to complete my exercise but i don't recommend this soon as you notice some weird noises and creaks fix it ASAP or take the bike to a local bikes shope
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike.
I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels.
Probably the trough axle that was dry.
On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals.
Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case.
My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
I spent ages going over my bottom bracket but couldn't stop the creaking. Changed my Shimano pedals and it stopped....top tip- try the pedals first
My bike never creaks on the road but when it is on the trainer the bottom bracket always makes this noise on every pedal stroke when I put power down 😢 bike shop says no problem. I know there is a problem. Exhausted
great stuff, I shared this:-) I haven't Tried this Loctite yet.
my example - just lube your chain first - even if you think it's clean and lubed "week ago"
Bought my Trek Emonda 2020 just for a month and it started creaking...Trek BB90 bearings :(
PTFE tape works a treat
Yes it works well for a while but deforms under the alternating load stresses which means the cup/bearing will move ever so slightly again yet it may still not creak. Loctite stops the movement.
Locktite is the worst thing to use. You'll have a hard time getting that off for repairs, or if you wanna upgrade. Heat softens metal, and cold hardens it. So everytime you ride your bike what ever the weather, this will happen. And if left untreat for more the two or three mouths you will get slight wear and tear. You need to maintain it with grease only. Using locktite is the worst. If you take your bike apart and see grease, then regrease it with fresh grease. Do'nt put other magical things on, coz you will make matters worse over time, and.may strugle to even get it off. But hey, i can't tell you what to do. Do what ever you wanna do.
Thought the same thing. Better use a grease that's durable against water and the creak will disappear also. And maintain it 2 times a year or more.
Did you re-grease those bearings? Repack with grease?
Reusing bearings you've knocked out is a pretty bad idea, except as an "I need to ride my bike until I can get new bearings" solution.
Cassette lock ring not torqued can be another source of creaking.
Yes, I had that problem once, and now the bottom bracket problem. It is good to check that first because the creaking from the cassette sounds similar to a bottom bracket creaking problem and both tend to occur at regular intervals with the pedaling cadence.
No grease?!!?
For your information. I've just received the first onepiece converter, from PF30 to 386EVO, from Hambini Engineering. I opted for a onepiece sleeve enabling you to replace the bearings yourself. Could not find one on the market, so Hambini made me a custom one. As I have an almost all black Cannondale Supersix EVO HiMod, I had it anodized in black locally. I bought the carbon primer and retaining compound from Park Tools. The primer, AP-1, equals Loctite 7649, the retaining compound RC-1 equals Loctite 680. From Park Tools they are pretty costly, so if you can find Loctite products cheaper, buy them instead. Installing cups are provided by Hambini, you just need a homemade press tool like the one shown in the video above, only with a longer threaded rod as you start wider, sleeve and shell width. Rgr
@@gokaygs Fully OK. Sometimes I can have a clicking sound, but I think it´s the pedals, Speedplays, crying for new bearings, or a antifriction lubrication.. I´d buy again if facing same problem, the onepiece design must be better than anything twopiece. Rgr
I would think bee's wax is probably better....locktight is by nature creepy from what I've experienced. Ever try bee's wax?
No I haven't....great suggestion William.
I have Canyon Ultimate which have carbon shell.Should i use retaining compound on carbon shell?What should i do?
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
I had to replace the bearings in my headset due to the noise and charged my pedals
No more noise
I once was told never use rubbing alcohol as many brands contain some amount of baby oil. This will leave behind a "film" . If you get denatured alcohol from a drug store ..your better off. I also use q-tip cotton swabs instead of a little paint brush for application.. no clean up and inexpensive.. good vid tho..
Thanx for the tips Mike,I didnt know that about rubbing alcohol.
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
Same! I'm like "there's a noise! It's the BB." They're like "look, no BB noise, its fine."
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
Lg
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Funny ha ha 😂
Having worked in automotive/racing, I'm a bit shocked that you are using green as that is extremely hard to remove if ever desired in the future. In the wrong spot, you will need to use a lot of heat to help break the bond. Blue is what I will be trying soon as I'm having this issue myself now....I'll report back later on my results. Thanks!
@Bebo That wasn't my point but thanks just the same...
@Bebo Ok...I guess with less surface area it wont be as big of an issue as if it was a thread as you point out...I'll give it the benefit then as I've never tried. Cheers.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
LOL I was just going to say they have a specific Loctite for that.
Good they sucked ass at bottom brackets. My left side would slide out if you just tilted the bike. Also "not their problem!!"
Praxis convert to threaded bottom, Press Fit is slowly going away it was a very dumb idea to begin with as even very expensive frames do not have the holes machine properly.
Press Fit cups that set on each side are prone to creaking. Get a nice locking Press Fit bottom from Praxxis, RaceFace or others that thread together in the middle making one continuous piece. I have multiple bikes with these type of locking bottoms and never have had a creak without using any Locktite.
Great video!!!! Like the tools you make....thanks for the tips!!!
I have done exactly as you have demonstrated in this video some time ago. I am now going to upgrade to a 2 piece thread together outboard system. i am struggling to get the axel of the crank out. do i literally just give it a good whack with a rubber mallet? Thanks
Yes but support the frame around bb area at same time
I don't even have this bearing type, zoned out.
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Thanks for this video! You've really explained this well. I've been searching for various instructional videos on bike repair lately and I'm glad to say this is it.
I've just ordered the bottom bracket removal tool so now I know exactly what I need to do.
wow....looking at various posts you have put up, I have never learned so much about bikes (see your ceramic bearing video) good job!
Perfect Video, Thank you so much,😊 you not just told the solution you also told it's mechanism and how it Damaged by the time, That's very knowledgeable😊😊
Many Thanks !!! :)
My creak turned out to be the spd cleats on my shoes, after changing bottom bracket, new cranks, new seat post.
Retro Dude, Old man on his bikes ouch
Classic
This is not a cheap medium-sized paintbrush.
It's a SHCT - Special Housing Cleaning Tool!
Should be named Fix BB creak on Carbon frame roadie bike, cause on mountain bikes / press BB /BMX this doesn't work at all
OZ, what do you think about BBInfinte and Hambini one piece BB to fix the creak and make it stiffer?
Yep,sure,if you can afford them. However even the best bb unit can still creak if the bb shell is out of round.
The more recent videos about this discuss the contact area of the pedal spindle, with the inner race of the bearings. You can sometimes see marking on the axle where it mates with the bearing, you can actually this at 9mins and 8 seconds in this video. Apparently fine grit finds its way there, or lack of lube, one of the causes of creaking. Interestingly that doesn't seem to happen on threaded set ups.
hmmm ive never seen loctite used on bbs before
6:54 I don't know if I'd put that much Loctite on... I used some bearing retaining compound of theirs-I'm not quite sure if it was 609-and it held like hell. Trying to get the bearing out later I had to "gently" heat and beat to get the bearing out of the housing. I don't know you might have put exactly the right amount on but I'd like to know if you have any experience removing something that you've put in with Loctite 609 since I know I was shocked with how hard the process was when I used it. Thanks for the great video; cheers.
Only use a drop or 2 each side
@@stevenleffanue That's what you've found?
You didn't mention to give the Loctite 609 a good shake before using.
You didn't mention how much of an excellent job he did with the video either.
Bikes creak, rattle and vibrate with noises everywhere, not just the BB. Unless it is a safety issue, forget about it and just ride. I don't even hear my tinnitus.
@Hambini would be horrified ......
I think most mechanics would be horrified
how did you rig that press tool ? what were the materials you used ? would be great if you can share the details
Looks like an axle with two nuts on either end with some tools in the middle.
Every time I've had a creak, it's been a loose crank arm.
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
+Lance McGrew Yes thats certainly a potential creaking spot. Thanx Lance.
Hello Steve, how this technique holds nowadays?
Still valid but not for BSA threaded
Is that too much trouble for removing? after using loctite. @@stevenleffanue
Literally after the first 20 seconds of the video it has helped me identify and confirm the issue with my bike... I have a carbon bike and thought there might be a frame issue. But after hearing the creak from your bottom bracket, it's exactly the same as mine.
Did you use to be a teacher? You videos and how you communicate, is very good
No. Just like helping people with their bikes 🚲😃
Something to keep in mind
For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately
250 °C. Disassemble while hot.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
609 is quite strong stuff. If you want to use some milder compound that still does a lot to remove creaking use loctite 641. If you need something better than 609 use 638. If it creaks with 638 correctly applied with primer it's time for a new frame or oversized bearings/cups or screw together bb.
I found working with 609 to be a pain. It's much thinner than the other stuff so I'd be really careful to get any close to the bearing seal lip. That means use it much more sparingly when in direct contact with the bearing. When applying to the cup inside the excess gets shoved very close to the seal lip = bad. Also when applying to the inside of the inner race it's also quite close. Thin is the key.
When you remove the bearings you'll wish you never used 609 😂. First try a dry fit, then 641 (preferably primered), then 609, then 638.
If the bearings are ceramic and use smaller balls, extracting bearings installed with 609 might need to be "pressed out". Hammering will just crush the bearings and the outer race can stay stuck in the shell = bad.
Good advice Mike. Yes 609 needs to be used sparingly otherwise the bearings want come out without a jackhammer 😁
I wondered about it getting on the bearings too. I'll take smooth bearings over creak, personally. I've been putting up with creak for years anyway...
Hi Mike, I'm a retired Loctite industrial rep who is a roadie. (32 years of blissful working with OEM's and maintenance pro's) Anyway, your recommendation of 641 is correct. It has roughly half the shear strength of 609. It should be the first option for this kind of application. 638 on the other hand should be avoided at all costs. 638 used to be the strongest retaining compound we make. Now with product formula upgrades 680 is stronger. That said 638 is probably too thick to get carried properly into a press fit. It was really meant for slip fits. Same goes for 680. Also, you mention primer but this is also a really important point. We make 3 primers. The two most common are SF 7649 and SF 7471. Of the two 7471 is the one I'd suggest. The reason is 7649 kicks and reacts very quickly. It could start curing once the resin touches the primed surface. Given that the shell is aluminum and the cups look to be anodized (maybe Oz can confirm) the 7471 will really ensure it cures on these unreactive surfaces. Remember, Loctite resins re anaerobic. That means they cure when trapped between ferrous metal surfaces and the air is removed. None of the surfaces are ferrous in the video so curing could take a long time, maybe 72 hours. Full cure would be 6 hours with 7471 and the parts Oz is using. I pasted a link of the TDS. If you go to page 2 you'll see a primer chart. The curves show you how quickly priming and no priming works. Anyway, I love seeing how people fix BB issues. I'd had a few in my day. Thanks to Oz for the video post. Cheers.
@@Kumacattvhi! thanks for the info; what about si5910?
Hi there, it's nice to see people reading all these comments. If you're asking whether 5910 would be a good use for this application, the answer is no. There are several reasons. First, 5910 is a oxime (non-corrosive/non-acetic acid) based silicone designed for automotive OEM gasketing applications on stamped parts like oil pans. It has a really high oil tolerance. However for press fit applications like this it would be too thick to get carried into the joint. In fact most of it would get squeezed out during the press. Second, it is an RTV cure. Meaning it uses moisture to cure not anaerobic curing like 609 or 641. There would be so little moisture in that joint it could take up to 7 days or longer to cure. Finally, silicones are designed to be flexible and elastic. Maybe they have 100 psi of shear strength. In this application you need at least 1500 or more to hold the BB bracket. So if you did use it and actually get it together I'm pretty sure the BB would move and eventually fail. So Steve (Oz cycling) has used the correct stuff and I even like the way he applied it to both surfaces. Testing has shown that you get 100% coverage between the parts when you apply it to both sides not one. Anyway, hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers.@@cyclopenguin
damn.. this bottom bracket is one of the biggest shit designs i have ever seen. also cheap chinese carbon frame...
Threaded BB, it’s that simple. Pressfit sucks.
Good luck if you ever need to remove the bottom bracket shell when using high strength loctite. You will probably need to heat it and that is not a good idea for carbon frames.
I will choose a better safe than sorry medium or even better low strength retaining compound.
Problem is, the label on the Loctite 609 says "medium-strength", but the technical data sheet says "high-strenght" and use temperature of 250 deg C to release the bond. Ouch! No epoxy resin will survive that I am afraid.
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
+ozesalsa Thanx for your experience...so Chinese ceramic bearings do work ok!
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Once again your native birds in the background noise are very therapeutic....
+TheCrossroads09 Haha....sorry no kookaburras this time :)
FSA bottom bracket - there's your explanation right there.
trailgumby I have an FSA SLK force light cranks with FSA B.B. never a problem 👌🏻
Agreed, only slightly better than SRAM
Good to hear. They couldn't be universally bad and still be in business. I had multiple FSA Mega Exo BBs on a hardtail MTB and I would be lucky to get 3 months out of them before they got gritty and grumbly, including the top end unit in the series. Stupidly expensive compared to the Shimano equivalents. I can't say they were unreliable as I came to learn this was entirely predictable. Not worth the risk for me.
+trailgumby If they get grit in them easily,its usually because the seals(dust caps) arent doing a good job.
Exactly. Seals were very poorly designed. Shaft was also wrong size - .05mm bigger than Shimano, meaning Shimano BB could not be substituted. Also had a FSA handlebar failure just before Christmas. Fortunately my son was OK. Too many issues for me to consider spending my own money for FSA product in the future.
thanks, shared with a few FB groups
I ride well over two hundred days a year so I replaced my bottom bracket with a Chris King and have not had a problem since 🤠🤠🤠
what about when its sounds like its cracking?
I have the same thing, have you fixed it?
might be a faulty frame. some creaking cant be fixed
this is the only video that actually showcases the noise too
Is the loctite a sealer or a lubricant !?
Its more of a gap filler to prevent any slight movement
Just convert to wheels manufacturing with shimano cranks..problem solved
Dont buy bikes with threadless bb. Why bother with press fit gimmick.
are you fing serious...ive got a new bike for a couple of weeks and I need to take to whole bottom apart?
Amazing. I had know idea how to do this.
Thanks, great vid.
I just found out my bb creaking noise is from cup / seal teeth cracking
Id never buy a pressfit. Just read a specialized article on them. Great for pro racers and dentists but for mere mortals it's not a good plan.
Haha wait why dentists??
And I don't even know what's so great about them anyway, they save a few grams at best and are a tiny bit stiffer supposedly. But how stuff are they really if they creak? Creaking means lateral movement, aka not stiff enough.
Really? You should watch a new video from Hambini channel...
@@S4dReality funny coincidence! Though Idk if I like Hambini, the guy clearly is a qualified professional, but he has the ego of a demi god and I don't trust people like him to admit it when they're wrong.
Anyway I skipped through the video and he shows a badly misaligned bottom bracket shell and shows how threaded BBs can be used to mask such problems. But can it really? In his video it was so bad that he had to use a mallet to put the crankset in! The bikes I've worked on, you can just push the crank arm gently by hand. It would be obvious when the BB shell is badly misaligned. I don't think that's a point against threaded BB. If it was, then Hambini wouldn't be selling conversion kits to allign PF BBs using a threaded adapter (or whatever he sells, haven't seen his channel in a while).
If anything, threaded BBs help to perfectly hide and smooth out the effects of small tolerance mistakes or small misalignment problems which are very common in bike frames. Something press fit BBs can't do, hence they creak on anything but a perfectly manufactured BB shell.
He also talks about how it costs more to make the threaded shell on carbon bikes (carbon wouldn't be as catchy of a material if it was called what it really is btw, which is reinforced plastic). But he forgets that making the tighter tolerances required for a perfect PF shell costs even more money due to stricter QA procedures. Otherwise if you're sensible and buy an alu or steel bike, a threaded shell is always going to be the cheaper option. And unless the bike frame is very poorly made, it shouldn't have any noticeable problems.
Or at least that's my understanding of the subject based on personal experience and what I read/saw/heard over the past couple of years since I became passionate about bike maintenance!
So yes, with my own money, I would never opt for a press fit bottom bracket.
I have a titanium frame with pressfit. If you spec the build right to begin with you should never have to experience a creaky BB. I used a one piece shell from BBInfinite and in the two years I've been riding tons of miles not a single problem to even worry about. The Shimano crank spins like a top when I spin the cranks. If your frame is the type that has shoulders the bearing stops against, I'm not familiar with all the brands, then you can't use a one piece BB and therefore your screwed, get rid of that frame. I think Cannondale uses a ring that clips into a groove for the bearing to stop against so you should still be able to push a one piece BB through. Screw all that work of using a loctite compound because you still have the issue of misalignment and your cranks still won't spin freely. Watched the video to the end and when he spun the cranks I could see the resistance.
@@TheRoadrunner11 well the story goes, they earn enough to buy a new bike everytime the bb goes, but Id add they have the skills and tech to endure their bb shell is perfectly round. Actually my dentist road an old school steel frame!
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.