Those pics are way better than Facebook when you were messing around with it. That’s good that you found it and like a lot of master techs who dabble in everything you found some parts cannon activation based on guessing and swaptronics kind of diagnostics. Good job and keep them coming as much as possible
Yeah, i was trying to ask a specific question about the reluctor location on Facebook so i zoomed way into the way form. And i think that it confused a lot of people.
Good control system troubleshooting! I worked for decades as a control system technician in industry. Now retired, (part time instructor in an apprenticeship program) I'm totally fascinated by automotive systems as they are a continuation of my life work, just on a smaller scale. I was directed to your channel by a suggested link from SMA who does great work and who I've been binge watching for weeks. Keep up the good work! Also, reluctance is analogous to resistance in an electrical circuit. Both affect intensity or magnitude, of field strength (magnetic) or current (electrical). In either case as with all sensors, it is the change produced that is detected by the input circuitry of the supervisory computer or PCM, triggering a solid state device into conduction by several means. >How current change in a coil is impacted by the presence of a ferrous metal (i.e. the tooth of the gear or reluctor input) is easily witnessed by energizing a coil with and without a screw driver or bolt inserted into the coil. Without, the coil become extremely hot very quickly and will burn up. With the screw driver/bolt, current is limited due to the change in reluctance of the magnetic circuit. Though my comments are generalizations, this is basically how all control systems work. Detect an input change, then produce a desired output dependent on a logical interpretation of the inputs by way of logic gates, (AND, OR, NOT, NOR, NAND) and or operational amplifiers (OpAmps). Thanks!
PJ great video and troubleshooting. Well first it doesn’t say much for replacement parts. Very respectful how you bashed no one. We all make mistakes we’re only human. Great simple explanation on VRS operation. Thank you. Been a long time subscriber and hope you meet and exceed your goal. PJ you and family stay safe and well Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks buddy! I never want to bash another tech. Heck, he might come across this video and I’d hate for him to feel like crap seeing it. Plus, techs bashing techs doesn’t get us anywhere. Thanks though! I’m glad that you’ve stuck around Artie!
PJ, you aske if I enjoyed ur video 100% do not stop sharing ur knowledge and expertise please they are an valuable to a tech like my self and appreciate ur time to do this thankyou brother from Ontario/ Canada cheeeeeers.
WELL DONE 👍. You touched on several fundamental topics like variable reluctance sensors and bias voltages. Perhaps you might further explain those concepts in a follow up video?? It's always fun to put a demo together on the bench. A small bar magnet with a few turns of wire can represent a CKP, a piece of metal the trigger wheel, and a 9V battery can supply your bias. Then, bring the demo to life with your fluke, a scope, and maybe even a drill motor. Just a "viewer suggestion". Cheers
Great vid PJ. I really enjoyed the thought process and explanations. Also the point that the biases cancel each other out on the scope. I think maybe the wheel well would have been easier. Lol
Man I wonder if this is my issue it's a 2008 it's got camshaft codes but no start brand new camshafts codes are p0340 p0344 p0304 5.4 everything seems good timing done about 30k miles ago but crankshaft connector is broken and just randomly stalled out after running fine threw those codes and wouldn't start again camshaft is good gonna look with a boroscope this evening either way I appreciate people like you that put scenarios for things that arnt as common for people to find
In his defense, it was hard to explain that you had to feel for the smaller hole in the engine without the picture with the boroscope. But i did make it clear that the base of the sensor would sit flat when installed correctly.
Awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! I thoroughly enjoyed the step by step process. Amazing how the sensor kept getting installed improperly! Woohoo!!! Almost 10k! Way to go oooooo! 🥳👏🏻👍🏻
Voltage drop diagnostics Good Evening take care and have a great day 👍 Happy Christmas 🎄 and happy new year 🎉 Great tutorial thank you 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I found your channel through someone else’s channel and noticed they had a t-shirt with your channel’s name on it. Is it possible that I could get one as well or are they more exclusive merch? If it is possible, I would love to get one in a 6XL. Love your content, keep up the great work
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well. Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off. All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
@@GregoryBirulkin no. Only because the voltage threshold for your phone is low. Most automotive circuits would damage your phone. If you’re looking for an inexpensive oscilloscope I’d go to aeswave.com and search for their “uscope” It’s $150 and it fit in your pocket.
@@VoltageDropDiagnostics yeah that small two-channel scope or one channel, I'm referring it to a flexible borescope, some of them even have lights on the tips. With attachments like a mirror or mechanical fingers for 30 bucks. On Amazon.
I’ve seen a ton of cars where people take one issue and turn it into into multiple issues with the parts cannon like that. New parts doesn’t mean good parts especially when it comes to things like aftermarket mass airflow sensors.
You should of left a card for your training class. A battery that flat would be around 9v on Crank and E.C.U. See all input reporting faults. Why didn't they let you fix in garage.😂
The third time I showed up. It was in the garage thankfully! Lol But yeah, I’m not sure what all parts this truck actually needed. The battery issue should’ve been fixed first.
Those pics are way better than Facebook when you were messing around with it. That’s good that you found it and like a lot of master techs who dabble in everything you found some parts cannon activation based on guessing and swaptronics kind of diagnostics. Good job and keep them coming as much as possible
Yeah, i was trying to ask a specific question about the reluctor location on Facebook so i zoomed way into the way form. And i think that it confused a lot of people.
Good control system troubleshooting!
I worked for decades as a control system technician in industry. Now retired, (part time instructor in an apprenticeship program) I'm totally fascinated by automotive systems as they are a continuation of my life work, just on a smaller scale.
I was directed to your channel by a suggested link from SMA who does great work and who I've been binge watching for weeks. Keep up the good work!
Also, reluctance is analogous to resistance in an electrical circuit. Both affect intensity or magnitude, of field strength (magnetic) or current (electrical). In either case as with all sensors, it is the change produced that is detected by the input circuitry of the supervisory computer or PCM, triggering a solid state device into conduction by several means.
>How current change in a coil is impacted by the presence of a ferrous metal (i.e. the tooth of the gear or reluctor input) is easily witnessed by energizing a coil with and without a screw driver or bolt inserted into the coil. Without, the coil become extremely hot very quickly and will burn up. With the screw driver/bolt, current is limited due to the change in reluctance of the magnetic circuit.
Though my comments are generalizations, this is basically how all control systems work. Detect an input change, then produce a desired output dependent on a logical interpretation of the inputs by way of logic gates, (AND, OR, NOT, NOR, NAND) and or operational amplifiers (OpAmps).
Thanks!
PJ great video and troubleshooting. Well first it doesn’t say much for replacement parts. Very respectful how you bashed no one. We all make mistakes we’re only human. Great simple explanation on VRS operation. Thank you. Been a long time subscriber and hope you meet and exceed your goal. PJ you and family stay safe and well Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks buddy! I never want to bash another tech. Heck, he might come across this video and I’d hate for him to feel like crap seeing it.
Plus, techs bashing techs doesn’t get us anywhere.
Thanks though! I’m glad that you’ve stuck around Artie!
PJ, you aske if I enjoyed ur video 100% do not stop sharing ur knowledge and expertise please they are an valuable to a tech like my self and appreciate ur time to do this thankyou brother from Ontario/ Canada cheeeeeers.
Thanks! I'm really glad that you like them!
WELL DONE 👍. You touched on several fundamental topics like variable reluctance sensors and bias voltages. Perhaps you might further explain those concepts in a follow up video?? It's always fun to put a demo together on the bench. A small bar magnet with a few turns of wire can represent a CKP, a piece of metal the trigger wheel, and a 9V battery can supply your bias. Then, bring the demo to life with your fluke, a scope, and maybe even a drill motor. Just a "viewer suggestion". Cheers
You know what, that isn’t a terrible idea.
I had a pretty strong permanent magnet from a 3 phase fuel pump that i might be able to use
Thanks for sharing PJ... Cheers.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Way to stick with the process! That has to frustrating to have a sensor installed wrong 3 times. 🤦♂️
Charge show-up time for each visit. Then it's not as frustrating.
Exactly! Shop ended up with a hefty bill for this one lol
Yeah, the frustrating part was second guessing myself.
Great job breaking down your diagnostic process with this one. I really enjoyed the video. Keep em coming.
Thanks buddy!
Awesome case study! Great job!
Thanks!
What a quality video and diag! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great vid PJ. I really enjoyed the thought process and explanations. Also the point that the biases cancel each other out on the scope. I think maybe the wheel well would have been easier. Lol
Maybe. That intake did come off in just a few minutes though.
The real question is WHY! Why install it there! Haha
Man I wonder if this is my issue it's a 2008 it's got camshaft codes but no start brand new camshafts codes are p0340 p0344 p0304 5.4 everything seems good timing done about 30k miles ago but crankshaft connector is broken and just randomly stalled out after running fine threw those codes and wouldn't start again camshaft is good gonna look with a boroscope this evening either way I appreciate people like you that put scenarios for things that arnt as common for people to find
Question how did you get business? I know programming and diagnostics but what do you do just walk into a shop and tell them or use business cards?
Great diag, PJ! It's a shame the mechanic didn't pay extra attention during the second installation since he knew he screwed up the first install.
In his defense, it was hard to explain that you had to feel for the smaller hole in the engine without the picture with the boroscope. But i did make it clear that the base of the sensor would sit flat when installed correctly.
Awesome video bro
Thanks Cody!
new to the channel and like the case study and presentation. well done PJ.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
@@VoltageDropDiagnostics one year later, I used every curse word I know in 2 languages while trying to install this sensor lol
Awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! I thoroughly enjoyed the step by step process. Amazing how the sensor kept getting installed improperly!
Woohoo!!! Almost 10k! Way to go oooooo! 🥳👏🏻👍🏻
Thanks Cubs! Haha
Nice find PJ 👍
Thanks Bob!
Voltage drop diagnostics Good Evening take care and have a great day 👍 Happy Christmas 🎄 and happy new year 🎉
Great tutorial thank you 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Step one, Check your battery voltage, then clean the terminals. Now you can work on the vehicle.
Great video PJ!! I don’t know if I missed the memo but are you not working for the dealer anymore?
I do. But I'm enjoying doing my own thing after hours for people who appreciate the skillset.
Good work Pj. Definitely frustrating to run into tech induced issues.
“Cash in them streets” 🤑
Hahaha “There’s money on these streets!” -JK at 2:30 AM haha
What a nice case study!! Is this part of the next class? If so I am in. Thanks again for sharing knowledge.
The next class that I’m finishing up will be an electrical class. Going from the very basics of electrical to advanced tests with pico.
Where’s these classes at
Are you going part time mobile? Awesome video
Just doing my thing on the side.
@@VoltageDropDiagnostics awesome hope to see more videos in the future
Great video bro!
Appreciate it!
I found your channel through someone else’s channel and noticed they had a t-shirt with your channel’s name on it. Is it possible that I could get one as well or are they more exclusive merch? If it is possible, I would love to get one in a 6XL. Love your content, keep up the great work
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off.
All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
Can you expulsión the crank sensor for the 3.5 turbo engine please
Good job 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Great work man 🤙
Hey, thanks!
That's why they make circular saws for access through the floorboard. LOL
Now you’re thinking!
@@VoltageDropDiagnostics have you ever used those $25 Scopes that you can put on your phone? And do they work?
@@GregoryBirulkin no. Only because the voltage threshold for your phone is low. Most automotive circuits would damage your phone.
If you’re looking for an inexpensive oscilloscope I’d go to aeswave.com and search for their “uscope”
It’s $150 and it fit in your pocket.
@@VoltageDropDiagnostics yeah that small two-channel scope or one channel, I'm referring it to a flexible borescope, some of them even have lights on the tips. With attachments like a mirror or mechanical fingers for 30 bucks. On Amazon.
I’ve seen a ton of cars where people take one issue and turn it into into multiple issues with the parts cannon like that. New parts doesn’t mean good parts especially when it comes to things like aftermarket mass airflow sensors.
Nice Job PJ!
You should of left a card for your training class. A battery that flat would be around 9v on Crank and E.C.U. See all input reporting faults. Why didn't they let you fix in garage.😂
The third time I showed up. It was in the garage thankfully! Lol But yeah, I’m not sure what all parts this truck actually needed. The battery issue should’ve been fixed first.
Have the same problem with my 2011 f150
Awesome video PJ. If I could subscribe again I would
Hahaha thanks!
Awesome 👏
👍👍🌷
Way too long to explain...esp. taking time ti drink water...lol
This doesn't help at all nerd