Thanks for the great information. A couple simple steps to pass on to your viewers before they dig into this. I just dealt with this issue and it finally gave up the ghost the other day. After 2 1/2 hours of testing and further researching I stumbled on the problem which I wish had been my first steps.#1: In the main fuse box, push down on all the relays in the top bank. There 2 that will cause this problem. (If laid out like my 2014) The first on the top left (PCM relay) and the 7th (Start/Run relay). My start/run was sitting up barely 1/32" not noticeable and that solved my problem. #2: Before going to far into testing, the relays are the easiest to check. Find and remove the rear window defrost relay. (#4 on the 2014). Use that to swap out #1 and then #7. If a bad relay, you will know immediately and since you don't need the defrost to operate, it will get you going. By the part #, all those relays are exactly the same. I also found they were only $18 on Amazon. I hope this helps someone. Thanks again for the education!
Eric, You are a Pro and an honest technician. Glad to see a man who knows his business and knows what he is talking about. Keep up the good honest work.
I'm troubleshooting a friend's f150 an I would have to say this video is the best I have ever seen, explaining the electrical diagrams, etc was so detailed, your a verys sharp guy, wish I found a lot more videos like yours, grant it your sharper than I so I had to pause and replay a few times sol I could adsorb a bit of your knowledge. Thank you for you. Gale
Intermittent problems are the most difficult to verify. As a Electronic Technician a very valuable tool for intermittent Troubleshooting is Freeze Spray. You spray the individual components and see if there's a change. That diode could easily have a cracked solder joint that shows its ugly head when cold. Once it warms up, it makes contact.
Hello ...hope this message finds you doing well... I'm so grateful that you had done this amazing video ...so informative. I was able to fixed my 2002 f150 with 4.2 liter v6. The problem I had was cranking no start, my antithef light and all the rest of the lights on the dashboard were flashing . So finded out that the pcm power dial fuse that powers the pcm relay was bad . Part # for that is oem F5TZ*14A604*A Got it from ford , replaced and the problem was history...running great again. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this vídeos to help us all.may God bless you .keep up the great work.
Thank you for your excellent video. Just replaced the relay on my 2001 F150 and I'm back on the road again. You saved me money and a lot of inconvenience. Thank you again.
I have a '99 F150 with the 4.6L Triton motor that's never been rebuilt. It hit 314,832 miles today, still pulls my trailer and gets me back and forth to and from the fishing holes. I'm comfortable enough to drive it on an almost 500 mile trip within the next few weeks to go see my mom in a another state. They are good trucks if you take care of them.
ERIC, you rock brother ur thought process and approach to any problem is awesome learned lot from u since start watching ur videos and as technician went from 50% to 80% in my diagnoses skill so thanks for the time and effort to show all this always waiting for the next video. cheeeeeeeers from On/ CANADA
The clarity in your thought process and explanation are exceptional. I ran across your video because I was having similar problems. My F150 stalled on a parkway entrance/exit ramp in NY an held up traffic for miles all due to a computer ground that became loose. Your video help me out tremendously! Thanks
I learned a long time ago that going with your gut is no different than accessing an automotive hotline. The knowledge is there based on previous experience. Good job as always. Glad to see you’re still making video.
I'm a TV tech and I have Ford F150, 2003, and I had same problem with cranked and no started, fortunately I had figured out by myself, I had changed the delay and it worked before I found your video. Thanks, anyway.
I'm having the same issue with my 2002 with the 4.2, I'll keep an eye out for the theft light and mileage indication. These are damn good trucks, no telling how many are in the junkyard due to minor issues like this.
Great diagnosis strategy, thanks for sharing! I've encountered a somewhat similar problem with a Ford Everest/Ranger having intermittent crank no start issues. My initial diagnosis was an immobilizer issue as the crank no start only happens when the theft light does not show up when key in acc. and actually drops comms to the pcm, but starts just fine when it does and restores comms to the pcm. Since the customer was in a rush, told him to try another key. Problem still persisted and customer brought it over to the dealership and they changed a couple of parts and called out the PCM. Customer brought it back to me and left it for the day and after checking powers and grounds to both the immobilizer control module and PCM where all checked right, was able to zero out the issue to the immobilizer coil antenna which was failing leading to the intermittent crank no start. I use a similar Launch tool, but a bit older model, and yes you need to update it regularly to get it to function optimally. Great work, Cheers!
The immobilizer coil antenna was my suspicion as well, when he mentioned the flashing theft light. The misaligned gear indicator tells me someone might have been poking around in there and could have created an issue.
I ran across this problem today on a 2002 f150. No spark from the coil. But I had spark going to it. But no signal to fire. My scanner showed communication problem with pcm. It was the relay. Swapped it started right up. 👍
Eric you should be teaching this stuff to new trainee Automotive Technicians in college. Your teaching style is very unique and very easy to understand.
Duuude!!! What s great video. I've been chasing my tail on a customers truck with three same symptoms. I was focusing on the PATS due to the theft light. (Thanks alldata 🙄) Replaced the PATS transceiver twice and same issue. Found your video and bam 10 minutes later it's fixed. 😂🎉 Faulty pcm power relay was only putting out 2V to the pcm fuse but would jump to 12 when i knocked on it and truck would start!! Life saver bro!! Thanks for what you do. Definitely following for future advice!!
Been fighting my sons 97 4.2 for days, bought it thinking it needed a fuel pump and couldn’t find issues for a no start at all/ dp no buzz... went to pull the diodes covered in ants and they were stuck.. rusted in I’m sure when I get home I’ll fix it, thanks!!!
Great information my 2003 is acting up mostly after cranking and turn off and want restart sits for awhile and will start up I check the basics that you went over thank you for your tutorial your awesome 😀
When my 2002 F150 had an intermittent crank/no start, it was the PCM relay. Also, the odometer fading out intermittently is typical for these and the fix is usually resoldering connection on the back of the instrument cluster.
Eric you should, think about making videos on how to read wiring diagrams , no one does it at ur level, I really enjoy when ur break down the wiring diagram ,
Good video. With the truck starting and running and being able to communicate with your other scanners, checking pins at the computer would probably not have told you anything. Intermittent problems can be very tough to diagnose.
Great video as usual. My old Autel didn't read the VIN on that generation Ford truck. But my newer Autel does. You should have gone manual by selecting the make, model and year manually and see if it communicates and what other modules communicate,.. the airbag, the ABS, etc. If I get a no comm on the PCM, I would have tried to communicate with the Immobilizer ( the Instrument cluster) , since the THEFT light blinks. There shoudl be a code stored. I did that once and it said something like " SCP message missing", meaning that the PCM didn't sent the SCP messages, meaning that it was off. When you did the global mode on the Launch you did get a match when it scanned for VPW. Older fords are VPW. Newer ones are CAN. You should have see if VPW connected to the PCM. I LOVE these old trucks. Easy to repair and they frequently go well over 250K miles. I have nothing bad to say about these old trucks. I could say a lot of bad things of the newer trucks. The newer F-150's are junk. They don't make them like they used to. I also would have hooked a small wire to the #18 fuse and hook it up to a temporary test bulb inside the truck. And have the owner see if it didn't light up when it acted up. Thanks for the great videos.
300k on my 07 expedition. I've had plenty of issues over the years..but always fixable and in my opinion these 5.4 l are EASY to work on and pretty straight forward. Thanks for the video it got me thinking of things I might have missed.
Absolutely AWESOME video. I'm having a similar issue with my 99 Expedition EB w/ 5.4L, and about 205,000 miles. Intermittently, the truck will die when I come to a complete stop. The idle will just die, and when I go to restart it, it will just crank & crank...however, the theft light is flashing rapidly, and the odometer is all dashes. After a few hrs, the truck will restart and run fine. It might be fine for several days, then act up again...or it might die again at the next stop light. There's no rhyme or reason as to when and why. I've been searching high & low for solutions. Everyone has been telling me a PATS issue, and this is the first video that says it might be something different. I've been thinking something was probably getting hot and shutting down, but I had no idea where to start...until now. Going to replace the diode and relay, and see what happens.
@@TechsHelpingHand my issue ended up being either the PCM diode, or the PCM relay. I replaced them both at the same time, and have not had any issues since.
@@isckq4352 it was the PCM diode and PCM relay. They are both in the main fuse box under the hood....but I forget exactly what numbers they were. You should be able to find the exact location in your owner's manual. Good luck !!!!!
1999-2014 (gen 10-12) F150's (and other related Ford trucks and RV's) have a known issue with the Fuel Pump Driver Module (mounted on a rail or shaft under the bed) that causes very similar issues with crank/no-starts, PATS issues, PCM commo issues, stalling, etc that would lead one to initially suspect a bad fuel pump. FordTech Makuloco has a couple of videos on this, as well as a dozen others. My friends 2014 E-450 (6.8L V10) 30' RV conversion just quit on him yesterday (7/22/2024), leaving him and his family stranded in the middle of Ohio on their summer cross-country road trip. Myself and several other friends had him go through steps like listening for the fuel pump running, checking the fuel pump fuse and relay (by switching both out), and also considered ignition and ignition switch issues. Turns out it was that module, which causes commo issues with the PCM as well as possibly messing with the PATS system (where those codes need to be cleared too). FYI. There's also the known (but separate) fuel pump fuse #27 problem, which Ford sells a retrofit / relocation kit for: Motorcraft WT56872 Terminal Kit.
I'm having trouble with mine as well but mine cranks right away first thing in the morning and then won't start on first crank after I've been driving it. Runs great though
I have a 2001 f150 xl with 462k miles and I absolutely love my little beater truck!..only things that ive changed was the starter, axle seals, and clutch and of course the regular routine maintenance items but I love her
This video just saved me a bundle of diag.$$. The easy things to test are the relay and diode (my issue was the pcm relay). I had the dash marks of death in the cluster and a flashing theft light on crank. I really appreciate the in-depth description of the pats system. Was fully prepared with the proper knowledge to go "all in" on a self repair on this if I needed to. Thanks so much!
Watching a few different vids and stumbled on yours. I have a similar issue however, I own a 2000 F150 XLT 4x2 5.4L 2V. It'll crank and start. But once in awhile it will not crank at all and one other problem I have which I will mention after. So like I was saying it will not crank and the anti theft will flash or come on when I'm trying to crank it on the dashboard. I don't have a remote which is my other problem. I purchased a remote and I've owned a few ford vehicles so I have some prior experience with fords. Which is frustrating because I have searched for answers and can't find one. I don't want to pay for diagnostic at the Ford service center. When I can I do it myself and learn something while doing so. Ok so I purchased a remote so I can unlock and lock the vehicle easily. Manual programming is the turn the key to run and the 7th or 8th time the locks should actuate. Well I've tried every possible way door open, closed. Door open and close etc. Now the locks will unlock and lock manually when I press the unlock and lock on door panel. I checked and it says that a GEM Module controls this feature. Is this true and I also checked the wiring diagram it says the module is under dash well I checked and I cant find it... I'm the 3rd owner and I don't want to pass the buck... PLEASE ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED. A RESOLUTION WOULD BE AWESOME... I hope to hear from you soon, THANKS!
Hey man I just wanted to say thank you for your video it helped me fix my 99 f-150 would turn over & had spark & fuel . Would kinda try to start but nothing I started checking all the stuff you were pointing out in your video it was that relay under the hood . 😅
I'm wondering if you had some freezer spray and sprayed the power diode and the relay, which may have caused either one to play up. This seemed to be a thermal fault... Well done going by your gut feeling in the repair. Looks like you were 100% correct... Great vid Eric... 10/10
Keys were lost I removed driver door lock cut new coded key have not put door lock in yet door lock is tied in with theft system it's a manual door lock does this matter
Thanks for the excellent video and explanation. I just started having this same problem on an 01 4.6l after installing a new battery. Thank you for taking the time to teach us something. I don't recall if the odometer was dashed, but I do remember seeing the THEFT light.
Wow my man, that was extremely thorough and very helpful. My truck is doing the exact same thing so hopefully replacing the relay and diode will fix my problem. Again, that was really informative. Thanks.
I don’t know if this helps but whenever it comes to temperature related issues in any electrical system, I use freezer spray or a heat gun depending on the issue and it works great for me. It also saves a lot of time waiting for something to cool down or heat up.
Yo Eric I have a 1998 ford expedition that has similar issues my pcm fuse keeps blowing which makes the anti theft light continuously to flash making the car not start but every time I go to replace the fuse or the relay it sparks causing the fuse to continue to blow.
I've replaced the computer, fuel pump, fuel filter, pump relay,tranciever, ignition and key, fuel pump fuse. Oh ya I replaced the fuel pump twice because I thought it wasn't pumping fuel. It is still a crank no start. The diode I haven't tried but if that doesn't do it I'm gonna try five gallons of gas and a match and dance around it so I can call it a win.
Relays go bad over time when high current contacts char up. I have opened n cleaned the contacts to restore function. Good relays have a solid chunk of silver.
I have a 2002 Ford with the six cylinder the V6 4.2 it does the same thing you're talking about and it does it worse in cold weather not so bad in warm weather is that normal
Intermittent electrical problems in avehicle: Often just some extra movement with some offending bad contact may fix it for quite some time. Sometimes forever, but sometimes it starts to act up in the future again. But it definitely makes hard any diagnosis. Once you start digging into it, it just starts to work normally, so you find nothing.
I had the same problem in my 2012. Crank no start in the morning, ran fine all day. I found the ground on the battery was loose. I did not think anything of it, until the next day when the truck fired right up. I chalked it up to the KAM memory being erased. I assume that because I remember changing the battery, and I had a long crank on the first start. That was my situation.
Thanks for this video.I've had this exact problem in my 02 f150 5.4L.Last winter was my first winter with it.It only happened in the cold weather.Mostly the morning,Never in the warmer weather.Same dash indicators as everything.I'm gonna get these 2 parts.And when it happens again I'll swap them to confirm this is the fix.Hasn't happened since last winter.I'm expecting it to act up very soon.
I experience this phenomena on my 2002 f150. The last time I took it to someone, they guessed the fuel pump wasn't turning on when I turned the key and recommended I cycled the key (on-off-on-off) a few times. I still have the problem and when I cycle the key it eventually starts. I usually have to try to start 3-4 times, but it gets there.
Me too.Man I'm glad i found this video.It was driving me nuts.I would listen for the fuel pump to cycle that's how i knew it was good to attempt a start.Just like you it took 3 or 4 cycles to get going.I'd hear the pump and it starts right up.
I have this same problem when moisture/humidity gets inside the cab. if I leave the key on (short of turning over) it will flash the 1-6 code on the theft light many times and then stops...then the truck will start. only happens in wet winter months 2003 f150 supercrew 4.6l
I've had numerous vehicles of different brands where people have too many other keys and junk on lanyard for key. I've had cars where wiper or heater blower won't work, but when I wiggle key everything works. Security lights could mean not seeing key right away.
Same problem here after battery completely died. Replace with battery and fuel pump relay and nothing. I’m going to try these two. Can’t find it on auto zones website and the counter guy is useless. Lol
Very informative video however the launch x431 pro communicated with the truck in global OBD 2 mode , there was a match for one of the communication protocols ..
I have a question. The odometer on my '99 F150 is always counting the mileage, but it only lights up occasionally. Is it most likely a short somewhere that can be fixed?
Not really an issue, just a theft system sucks I own one and mine is doing this but my milage meter doesn't work, which I have fixed before, but if you want long enough while the key is on it will throw a code mime is code 12. Which I have yet to find a straight answer on what it is. When the theft light does this it shuts the power off to the fuel pump which you can crank all day long but the motor isn't getting any gas. There is so many issues with the theft system on the first but I own two ford's and couldn't ask for a better truck as much as the one that's having issues, it's been through a lot and when I do get it fixed it runs great
Love your channel This was a good one you had seen that issue before and it was exactly what you had seen experience is a great thing yes you lucked out and that fixed that guys truck but it was your experience and knowledge that told you change those parts first if that hadn't of worked then you knew it was gonna be related to pcm in some way
Do you still have the relay for the pcm power? I was just wondering what the contact point looks like inside the relay. Maybe they're worn out and takes time for the coil's electromagnet to close the circuit. 😅
Classic signs of a failing fuel pump intermittent crank but no start especially when it gets colder outside first thing in the morning after it warms up starts and runs just fine until the next morning or so.
I have a question maybe more. I have a 98 ford explorer 4.0 sohc. I have this intermittent crank no start issue as well. I got a crankshaft position sensor to put on but have not put it on yet thinking it is that. Hard to tell if any parts I put on helps for this issue comes and goes at random. I will try changing out the temperature sensor as well. I have noticed the temperature gauge has been running a lil hotter for awhile but does not reach hot. So perhaps the temperature sensor may fix this on mine. I just have to figure out which one it is. I think mine has 2 or 3 different kinds of sensors all close together close to the thermostat housing. But my question is where is the ground wire suppose to be located? I have not been able to get an answer from anyone. I found a ground cable that was disintegrated just hanging in engine bay closest to the alternator but could not tell where it was connected on either end. Im wondering if this has caused some issues that I have not recognized yet.
You're not only a great teacher, you're not afraid to show the human side of this industry. Well done, sir!
100%. Very humble and honest mechanic. I just subscribed
Thanks for the great information. A couple simple steps to pass on to your viewers before they dig into this. I just dealt with this issue and it finally gave up the ghost the other day. After 2 1/2 hours of testing and further researching I stumbled on the problem which I wish had been my first steps.#1: In the main fuse box, push down on all the relays in the top bank. There 2 that will cause this problem. (If laid out like my 2014) The first on the top left (PCM relay) and the 7th (Start/Run relay). My start/run was sitting up barely 1/32" not noticeable and that solved my problem. #2: Before going to far into testing, the relays are the easiest to check. Find and remove the rear window defrost relay. (#4 on the 2014). Use that to swap out #1 and then #7. If a bad relay, you will know immediately and since you don't need the defrost to operate, it will get you going. By the part #, all those relays are exactly the same. I also found they were only $18 on Amazon. I hope this helps someone. Thanks again for the education!
Thanks will check that out
Eric, You are a Pro and an honest technician. Glad to see a man who knows his business and knows what he is talking about. Keep up the good honest work.
I'm troubleshooting a friend's f150 an I would have to say this video is the best I have ever seen, explaining the electrical diagrams, etc was so detailed, your a verys sharp guy, wish I found a lot more videos like yours, grant it your sharper than I so I had to pause and replay a few times sol I could adsorb a bit of your knowledge. Thank you for you. Gale
Intermittent problems are the most difficult to verify. As a Electronic Technician a very valuable tool for intermittent Troubleshooting is Freeze Spray. You spray the individual components and see if there's a change. That diode could easily have a cracked solder joint that shows its ugly head when cold. Once it warms up, it makes contact.
I was thinking the same!
Very cool
@@W.Khairiof course it's very cool...it's freeze spray. Sorry...I had to go there.
Hello ...hope this message finds you doing well...
I'm so grateful that you had done this amazing video ...so informative. I was able to fixed my 2002 f150 with 4.2 liter v6.
The problem I had was cranking no start, my antithef light and all the rest of the lights on the dashboard were flashing .
So finded out that the pcm power dial fuse that powers the pcm relay was bad .
Part # for that is oem
F5TZ*14A604*A Got it from ford , replaced and the problem was history...running great again. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this vídeos to help us all.may God bless you .keep up the great work.
Recall what the part cost?
Thank you for your excellent video. Just replaced the relay on my 2001 F150 and I'm back on the road again. You saved me money and a lot of inconvenience. Thank you again.
I have a '99 F150 with the 4.6L Triton motor that's never been rebuilt. It hit 314,832 miles today, still pulls my trailer and gets me back and forth to and from the fishing holes. I'm comfortable enough to drive it on an almost 500 mile trip within the next few weeks to go see my mom in a another state. They are good trucks if you take care of them.
Your knowledge of fords and nissans doesn't stop impressing me, Well done.
ERIC, you rock brother ur thought process and approach to any problem is awesome learned lot from u since start watching ur videos and as technician went from 50% to 80% in my diagnoses skill so thanks for the time and effort to show all this always waiting for the next video. cheeeeeeeers from On/ CANADA
My 04 f150 did the exact same thing
Thank you for your help, now I know what to do, what a relief
The clarity in your thought process and explanation are exceptional. I ran across your video because I was having similar problems. My F150 stalled on a parkway entrance/exit ramp in NY an held up traffic for miles all due to a computer ground that became loose. Your video help me out tremendously! Thanks
I learned a long time ago that going with your gut is no different than accessing an automotive hotline. The knowledge is there based on previous experience. Good job as always. Glad to see you’re still making video.
MY Ford150 has over 310,000 miles on it. This "no crank" issue is the first issue I've had in a looong time.
Kudos to Ford
I'm a TV tech and I have Ford F150, 2003, and I had same problem with cranked and no started, fortunately I had figured out by myself, I had changed the delay and it worked before I found your video. Thanks, anyway.
Thank you Eric. Good job. Your registration sticker is expired. LOL. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
I'm having the same issue with my 2002 with the 4.2, I'll keep an eye out for the theft light and mileage indication. These are damn good trucks, no telling how many are in the junkyard due to minor issues like this.
Great diagnosis strategy, thanks for sharing! I've encountered a somewhat similar problem with a Ford Everest/Ranger having intermittent crank no start issues. My initial diagnosis was an immobilizer issue as the crank no start only happens when the theft light does not show up when key in acc. and actually drops comms to the pcm, but starts just fine when it does and restores comms to the pcm. Since the customer was in a rush, told him to try another key.
Problem still persisted and customer brought it over to the dealership and they changed a couple of parts and called out the PCM.
Customer brought it back to me and left it for the day and after checking powers and grounds to both the immobilizer control module and PCM where all checked right, was able to zero out the issue to the immobilizer coil antenna which was failing leading to the intermittent crank no start.
I use a similar Launch tool, but a bit older model, and yes you need to update it regularly to get it to function optimally.
Great work, Cheers!
The immobilizer coil antenna was my suspicion as well, when he mentioned the flashing theft light. The misaligned gear indicator tells me someone might have been poking around in there and could have created an issue.
What is an immobilizer antenna?
Been trying to fix my 03 F150 for over 3 years! Finally found out its the instrument cluster.A locksmith told me!
I no some people might say this is bull. But my dad has same kind truck 1998 it has 360000 miles and it is still going. Great video Eric.
I ran across this problem today on a 2002 f150. No spark from the coil. But I had spark going to it. But no signal to fire. My scanner showed communication problem with pcm. It was the relay. Swapped it started right up. 👍
Eric you should be teaching this stuff to new trainee Automotive Technicians in college. Your teaching style is very unique and very easy to understand.
Duuude!!! What s great video. I've been chasing my tail on a customers truck with three same symptoms. I was focusing on the PATS due to the theft light. (Thanks alldata 🙄) Replaced the PATS transceiver twice and same issue. Found your video and bam 10 minutes later it's fixed. 😂🎉 Faulty pcm power relay was only putting out 2V to the pcm fuse but would jump to 12 when i knocked on it and truck would start!! Life saver bro!! Thanks for what you do. Definitely following for future advice!!
Hey man I have my own mobile mechanic business and this video really helped me out thanks.
I liked the honest description of options here, I suspect that happens more often than we think.
Been fighting my sons 97 4.2 for days, bought it thinking it needed a fuel pump and couldn’t find issues for a no start at all/ dp no buzz... went to pull the diodes covered in ants and they were stuck.. rusted in I’m sure when I get home I’ll fix it, thanks!!!
Great information my 2003 is acting up mostly after cranking and turn off and want restart sits for awhile and will start up I check the basics that you went over thank you for your tutorial your awesome 😀
When my 2002 F150 had an intermittent crank/no start, it was the PCM relay. Also, the odometer fading out intermittently is typical for these and the fix is usually resoldering connection on the back of the instrument cluster.
Eric you should, think about making videos on how to read wiring diagrams , no one does it at ur level, I really enjoy when ur break down the wiring diagram ,
We can't lose our truck we are a Ford tough family and I love my Ford
Good video. With the truck starting and running and being able to communicate with your other scanners, checking pins at the computer would probably not have told you anything. Intermittent problems can be very tough to diagnose.
Great video as usual. My old Autel didn't read the VIN on that generation Ford truck. But my newer Autel does. You should have gone manual by selecting the make, model and year manually and see if it communicates and what other modules communicate,.. the airbag, the ABS, etc. If I get a no comm on the PCM, I would have tried to communicate with the Immobilizer ( the Instrument cluster) , since the THEFT light blinks. There shoudl be a code stored. I did that once and it said something like " SCP message missing", meaning that the PCM didn't sent the SCP messages, meaning that it was off. When you did the global mode on the Launch you did get a match when it scanned for VPW. Older fords are VPW. Newer ones are CAN. You should have see if VPW connected to the PCM. I LOVE these old trucks. Easy to repair and they frequently go well over 250K miles. I have nothing bad to say about these old trucks. I could say a lot of bad things of the newer trucks. The newer F-150's are junk. They don't make them like they used to. I also would have hooked a small wire to the #18 fuse and hook it up to a temporary test bulb inside the truck. And have the owner see if it didn't light up when it acted up. Thanks for the great videos.
Great idea
What a great advice
300k on my 07 expedition. I've had plenty of issues over the years..but always fixable and in my opinion these 5.4 l are EASY to work on and pretty straight forward. Thanks for the video it got me thinking of things I might have missed.
Great vid Eric. Shout yourself to a couple of gas strut clamps mate! Your head will really appreciate it!
You my friend are awesome you will go far in your life with no limits or heartaches...
This fixed my problem by replacing the pcm really thank you thank you thank you.
Absolutely AWESOME video. I'm having a similar issue with my 99 Expedition EB w/ 5.4L, and about 205,000 miles. Intermittently, the truck will die when I come to a complete stop. The idle will just die, and when I go to restart it, it will just crank & crank...however, the theft light is flashing rapidly, and the odometer is all dashes. After a few hrs, the truck will restart and run fine. It might be fine for several days, then act up again...or it might die again at the next stop light. There's no rhyme or reason as to when and why. I've been searching high & low for solutions. Everyone has been telling me a PATS issue, and this is the first video that says it might be something different. I've been thinking something was probably getting hot and shutting down, but I had no idea where to start...until now. Going to replace the diode and relay, and see what happens.
Did you find the problem? No one seems to give a good answer to the fix of this problem
Could You please comment what diode make reference?
What is the location to this diode?
Appreciate your comments
@@TechsHelpingHand my issue ended up being either the PCM diode, or the PCM relay. I replaced them both at the same time, and have not had any issues since.
@@isckq4352 it was the PCM diode and PCM relay. They are both in the main fuse box under the hood....but I forget exactly what numbers they were. You should be able to find the exact location in your owner's manual. Good luck !!!!!
@@tommyc8333
Tom,
Appreciate your comments!!
Thanks and god bless 🙏
Great job, explaining how you came to your diagnosis.
1999-2014 (gen 10-12) F150's (and other related Ford trucks and RV's) have a known issue with the Fuel Pump Driver Module (mounted on a rail or shaft under the bed) that causes very similar issues with crank/no-starts, PATS issues, PCM commo issues, stalling, etc that would lead one to initially suspect a bad fuel pump. FordTech Makuloco has a couple of videos on this, as well as a dozen others. My friends 2014 E-450 (6.8L V10) 30' RV conversion just quit on him yesterday (7/22/2024), leaving him and his family stranded in the middle of Ohio on their summer cross-country road trip. Myself and several other friends had him go through steps like listening for the fuel pump running, checking the fuel pump fuse and relay (by switching both out), and also considered ignition and ignition switch issues. Turns out it was that module, which causes commo issues with the PCM as well as possibly messing with the PATS system (where those codes need to be cleared too). FYI.
There's also the known (but separate) fuel pump fuse #27 problem, which Ford sells a retrofit / relocation kit for: Motorcraft WT56872 Terminal Kit.
I'm having trouble with mine as well but mine cranks right away first thing in the morning and then won't start on first crank after I've been driving it.
Runs great though
I have a 2001 f150 xl with 462k miles and I absolutely love my little beater truck!..only things that ive changed was the starter, axle seals, and clutch and of course the regular routine maintenance items but I love her
This video just saved me a bundle of diag.$$.
The easy things to test are the relay and diode (my issue was the pcm relay). I had the dash marks of death in the cluster and a flashing theft light on crank.
I really appreciate the in-depth description of the pats system. Was fully prepared with the proper knowledge to go "all in" on a self repair on this if I needed to. Thanks so much!
What did you change
Amen sir that truck has already proved itself
Watching a few different vids and stumbled on yours. I have a similar issue however, I own a 2000 F150 XLT 4x2 5.4L 2V. It'll crank and start. But once in awhile it will not crank at all and one other problem I have which I will mention after. So like I was saying it will not crank and the anti theft will flash or come on when I'm trying to crank it on the dashboard. I don't have a remote which is my other problem. I purchased a remote and I've owned a few ford vehicles so I have some prior experience with fords. Which is frustrating because I have searched for answers and can't find one. I don't want to pay for diagnostic at the Ford service center. When I can I do it myself and learn something while doing so. Ok so I purchased a remote so I can unlock and lock the vehicle easily. Manual programming is the turn the key to run and the 7th or 8th time the locks should actuate. Well I've tried every possible way door open, closed. Door open and close etc. Now the locks will unlock and lock manually when I press the unlock and lock on door panel. I checked and it says that a GEM Module controls this feature. Is this true and I also checked the wiring diagram it says the module is under dash well I checked and I cant find it... I'm the 3rd owner and I don't want to pass the buck... PLEASE ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED. A RESOLUTION WOULD BE AWESOME... I hope to hear from you soon, THANKS!
Hey man I just wanted to say thank you for your video it helped me fix my 99 f-150 would turn over & had spark & fuel . Would kinda try to start but nothing I started checking all the stuff you were pointing out in your video it was that relay under the hood . 😅
I have the same engine, with 292k miles. People hate cause they don’t understand how far the truck has already been
I'm wondering if you had some freezer spray and sprayed the power diode and the relay, which may have caused either one to play up. This seemed to be a thermal fault... Well done going by your gut feeling in the repair. Looks like you were 100% correct... Great vid Eric... 10/10
Great idea! Thanks
Keys were lost I removed driver door lock cut new coded key have not put door lock in yet door lock is tied in with theft system it's a manual door lock does this matter
Also can I turn key on [ run position] for ten minutes then turn off for two minutes then start for theft reset
I seem to recall Ford having problems with some PCMs in 1999 model years that wouldn't store trouble codes.
Thanks for the excellent video and explanation. I just started having this same problem on an 01 4.6l after installing a new battery. Thank you for taking the time to teach us something. I don't recall if the odometer was dashed, but I do remember seeing the THEFT light.
Good call on the relay and diode.
Wow my man, that was extremely thorough and very helpful. My truck is doing the exact same thing so hopefully replacing the relay and diode will fix my problem. Again, that was really informative.
Thanks.
Did you figure it out?
I don’t know if this helps but whenever it comes to temperature related issues in any electrical system, I use freezer spray or a heat gun depending on the issue and it works great for me. It also saves a lot of time waiting for something to cool down or heat up.
I have a 97 f150 with exactly the same problem. Can you show me what to replace on it? Thanks
Thank you. Got my Expedition back on the road with this.
You do great videos. You're very well spoken too, nice and clear. Thank you
I always enjoy your thought process!! Fix the easy stuff first
Thanks for always watching!
Yo Eric I have a 1998 ford expedition that has similar issues my pcm fuse keeps blowing which makes the anti theft light continuously to flash making the car not start but every time I go to replace the fuse or the relay it sparks causing the fuse to continue to blow.
I've replaced the computer, fuel pump, fuel filter, pump relay,tranciever, ignition and key, fuel pump fuse. Oh ya I replaced the fuel pump twice because I thought it wasn't pumping fuel. It is still a crank no start. The diode I haven't tried but if that doesn't do it I'm gonna try five gallons of gas and a match and dance around it so I can call it a win.
Very good explained. 👍👍👍👍👍 You are a good technician 👍
Damn! You go out of your way for the customer. I don’t know how you are able to charge for all your time. I at least hope people are thankful
Relays go bad over time when high current contacts char up. I have opened n cleaned the contacts to restore function. Good relays have a solid chunk of silver.
i got a 03 f150 880,000 km on frame but brand new engine and tranny but abused it so im here now
I have a 2002 Ford with the six cylinder the V6 4.2 it does the same thing you're talking about and it does it worse in cold weather not so bad in warm weather is that normal
Intermittent electrical problems in avehicle: Often just some extra movement with some offending bad contact may fix it for quite some time. Sometimes forever, but sometimes it starts to act up in the future again. But it definitely makes hard any diagnosis. Once you start digging into it, it just starts to work normally, so you find nothing.
I had the same problem in my 2012. Crank no start in the morning, ran fine all day. I found the ground on the battery was loose. I did not think anything of it, until the next day when the truck fired right up. I chalked it up to the KAM memory being erased. I assume that because I remember changing the battery, and I had a long crank on the first start. That was my situation.
parts cannon, looks like it was the right move, really appreciate the thorough diagnosis
Sometimes you just gotta dust off the old parts cannon!
That was a parts sniper rifle not cannon.
Very thorough, clear and helpful. Thank you
Love this tutorial. Any info on 2010 Ford Transit Connect? I am about to check the diode, etc. Thanks!
Thanks for this video.I've had this exact problem in my 02 f150 5.4L.Last winter was my first winter with it.It only happened in the cold weather.Mostly the morning,Never in the warmer weather.Same dash indicators as everything.I'm gonna get these 2 parts.And when it happens again I'll swap them to confirm this is the fix.Hasn't happened since last winter.I'm expecting it to act up very soon.
I experience this phenomena on my 2002 f150. The last time I took it to someone, they guessed the fuel pump wasn't turning on when I turned the key and recommended I cycled the key (on-off-on-off) a few times. I still have the problem and when I cycle the key it eventually starts. I usually have to try to start 3-4 times, but it gets there.
Me too.Man I'm glad i found this video.It was driving me nuts.I would listen for the fuel pump to cycle that's how i knew it was good to attempt a start.Just like you it took 3 or 4 cycles to get going.I'd hear the pump and it starts right up.
There is another ground in passenger footwell. The cab rusts and it needs moved to different location above original spot
Thank you for this video. And I’m having the same problem with my 2001 5.4 super crew. Going to buy these parts and see if it will fix it.
U were good doing the right diagnostic that's the way supposed to be on this field thanks I did learn something thanks
Great video Eric, after the first visit I would have the truck brought to me. Congrats on your channel.
I have this same problem when moisture/humidity gets inside the cab. if I leave the key on (short of turning over) it will flash the 1-6 code on the theft light many times and then stops...then the truck will start. only happens in wet winter months 2003 f150 supercrew 4.6l
I love it, you have very good understanding of these systems, this is really interesting, THANKS for your expertise 😃😃😃
Same thing happened to my 02 f150. Problem was the pats halo ring in the tumbler
I've had numerous vehicles of different brands where people have too many other keys and junk on lanyard for key. I've had cars where wiper or heater blower won't work, but when I wiggle key everything works. Security lights could mean not seeing key right away.
You do amazing pre-planning before attacking the issue. Thanks for this great video man!
Eric as usual thanks for sharing the video from start to finish. All your videos are very through. Thanks again and stay safe and well. Artie 👍
Thank you
Nice work as usual brother!!👍 that’s weird that the one scan tool won’t work. Pretty sure they run off very similar if not the same software
It was very strange because I’ve been using that scan tool almost exclusively for the past couple of months and have not had an issue like that.
i love ford tbh i have nothing but ford, i dont care what haters say.
Same problem here after battery completely died. Replace with battery and fuel pump relay and nothing. I’m going to try these two. Can’t find it on auto zones website and the counter guy is useless. Lol
Nice work, know I appreciated your video this evening.
Did you check the hybrid cluster for codes? I would expect there to be a commincation code for loss of communication with the PCM.
Wow. It's like plying Chess with mechanics.
Very informative video however the launch x431 pro communicated with the truck in global OBD 2 mode , there was a match for one of the communication protocols ..
I have a question. The odometer on my '99 F150 is always counting the mileage, but it only lights up occasionally. Is it most likely a short somewhere that can be fixed?
your neighbor got very good haloween decor
Eric muy chingona tu inf...gracias
Tengo el mismo problems.
Not really an issue, just a theft system sucks I own one and mine is doing this but my milage meter doesn't work, which I have fixed before, but if you want long enough while the key is on it will throw a code mime is code 12. Which I have yet to find a straight answer on what it is. When the theft light does this it shuts the power off to the fuel pump which you can crank all day long but the motor isn't getting any gas. There is so many issues with the theft system on the first but I own two ford's and couldn't ask for a better truck as much as the one that's having issues, it's been through a lot and when I do get it fixed it runs great
Well done body, I learned something else specially with this f150 is a pain in ….
The Launch was able to read J1850 PWM protocol, it said "match" maybe you didn't notice it
Love your channel
This was a good one you had seen that issue before and it was exactly what you had seen experience is a great thing yes you lucked out and that fixed that guys truck but it was your experience and knowledge that told you change those parts first if that hadn't of worked then you knew it was gonna be related to pcm in some way
Do you have a part number for the relay
Do you still have the relay for the pcm power? I was just wondering what the contact point looks like inside the relay. Maybe they're worn out and takes time for the coil's electromagnet to close the circuit. 😅
Classic signs of a failing fuel pump intermittent crank but no start especially when it gets colder outside first thing in the morning after it warms up starts and runs just fine until the next morning or so.
Theft light blinking...
Wish I had someone like you too look at my mom ford expedition!
This might be the issue I’m having. I’m definitely going have to go to ford and get those fuses and see.
I have a question maybe more. I have a 98 ford explorer 4.0 sohc. I have this intermittent crank no start issue as well. I got a crankshaft position sensor to put on but have not put it on yet thinking it is that. Hard to tell if any parts I put on helps for this issue comes and goes at random. I will try changing out the temperature sensor as well. I have noticed the temperature gauge has been running a lil hotter for awhile but does not reach hot. So perhaps the temperature sensor may fix this on mine. I just have to figure out which one it is. I think mine has 2 or 3 different kinds of sensors all close together close to the thermostat housing. But my question is where is the ground wire suppose to be located? I have not been able to get an answer from anyone. I found a ground cable that was disintegrated just hanging in engine bay closest to the alternator but could not tell where it was connected on either end. Im wondering if this has caused some issues that I have not recognized yet.