This is the clearest and most precise video that I have seen by a huge margin that has made my mind up on my system for my new build starting Jan 2019(4th build and still learning) I had a great setup in my last van but require more of grid days. The Ctek controlling solar as well as b2b is the way forward. All my purchases start from the beginning of Jan2019 and was going down the sterling b2b route... many videos later this one has sealed it for Ctek. Subbed
im looking at this or a very similar set up also for a van conversion, so far i see there is a ctek d250sa and a smartpass as well as a ctek d250s dual and a smartpass...do you know of any difference between the two? all i can seem to find is a difference in price
Thank you! 9 years since you uploaded this and I’ve been looking everywhere (including the ctek site) for an explanation of the differences and benefits of each component. You’ve explained in 6 minutes what I’ve spent hours trying to find! Again, thank you.
@4:05 Close. The voltage-boosting 20A D250 and the alternator-voltage Smartpass isolator run in parallel until the battery back voltage > alternator voltage. From that point on the D250 goes it alone. The 20A+80A max (or +120A in newer Smartpasses) can only happen in Bulk stage, for which the alternator is probably grateful.
I tested draft circuit today. D250SE+SmartPass0+Monitor+M300 AC/DC Charger and Solar Panel/ 100 Ah Starter Battery and 200 Ah Service Battery with ARB Fridge freezer.Waiting for completed wiring for camping travel.
I agree with all of the positive comments below - this is by far the clearest setup video for the D250 and Smartpass. I would ask that, if you feel inclined, perhaps add what the indicator lights should be doing when charging from each source. My setup was installed by a garage and I am not convinced they have done it correctly but cannot fathom out wether or not my battery charger (connected to the leisure battery) is charging my cranking battery. What should the lights indicate? Many thanks and great vid.
Well explained. I have installed this system in my 4x4 off-road vehilce charging 2 x 105 amp/hr batteries in parrell. I run 2 x Engel 40l fridges one set on feeze. A full charge should keep it going 2 nights and a day. Any more than that I connect my 150 W solar panel. 2 Comments though. Be careful when connecting directly to critical utilities point. If your fridge doesn't have a low voltage cut out it will suffer damage. In any case battery level should not drop below 11V unless you have a critical item 2. My understanding is that the unit will charge the critical battery first .i.e the cranking battery
I would hope that it charges the critical battery first; need to look more into this. I just wish these units were rated more highly than IP65. Really need IP67+ for our Jeep.
Wow this thing is brilliant. Need to return my MPPT Charge controller, will really simplify my triple battery setup (1xstarting with 2x6V leisure). I assume the only thing this can't do (because of the size of the wires) is allow an inverter to be run directly from the engine to reduce drain on batteries during high loads.
Think you have saved me alot of time deciding what system to buy, thanks. Two questions, 1, would this set up be powerful enough to charge 660ah battery set up and is the ctek system compatable with lead crystal batteries as I believe they do better with an initial higher charge rate.. Thanks
Slightly incorrect,,, The smartpass is active while a amp flow rate in excess of 20 amps is achieved from the ALT .... this varies from car to car because of running voltage and voltage drop incurred from cabling length (10m + ) so about 70 tp 80% best case for smartpass then the d250s kicks in and completes the charging at a higher rate than the ALT can deliver. about 98% best case due to the final 2% requires 24hrs and you wont drive that long. with the solar active too it matches the ALT voltage and can extent the process a bit (roof mounted)
Thanks. This video helps a lot! If you may I do have two questions. 1) I do have three AGM leisure batteries with 115ah each, can I still use the CTEK 250SE? I read that is limited to up 300ah. 2) I'm doing a research about the usage of CTEK Smartpass along with 250SE, which benefits I will have with that? What's the pros and cons to use only the 250SE?
Do you need the smart pass to fully charge the main battery. As well or is it just to up the amp from 20amp to 100amp? Thanks for your time and grate video's
You mention the D250 is an MPPT tracker, what does that mean? Is it a solar panel regulator or is it just tracking the voltage output? Can I use in place of an MPPT solar regulator?
this guy is really concise very good video bravo!!! I am in the us and planing a build also sorry to see he doesn't respond to questions but since there is recent activity here i will ask a few questions i wish to have a stand alone small inverter generator capable of charging the battery's if i am boon dock for long periods of time using the 240 volt charger module can it accept charge from the smaller 120 volt generator? and in older publications of this model number of dcdc charger it was stated as a 40 amp charger did they reverse engineer for some reason just curious if anyone knows thanks, bigskymike
Hi, Can you see any potential issue mainly in a motor home or caravan whereby someone may start their vehicle whilst having the mains charger also plugged in and charging (as remote as this may be) ? Not sure if the SmartPass and Mains charger may get confused here. Perhaps the intro of a relay that always gives precedent to the mains charger or something like that. Great informative video by the way. Well done.
So the smartpass basically charges the starter battery once leisure battery is full. The d250s won't do this alone. Im trying to learn what the point of the smartpass is.
Great video, thank you. I got a camper and just bought me a 2nd hand d250s. if I mount it and add a 230 volts charger plugged to the auxiliary battery, will it also charge the start battery, or do I really need the smartpass?
Great video. I think this may be the solution I'm looking for. I wonder if you could give us some real life info on the battery charging whilst driving. For instance how much battery charge do you tend to get for 30 minutes of driving would be great info for me to get. Thanks for any answer you may give.
Hi, great video. I am interested in getting the dc to dc charger for my 4wd. I currently have two 110 amp hour batteries plus the starter battery in my vehicle. Do you recommend using the Smartpass for the amount of power i have?
Hi, can either of these chargers be used on their own? I want to charge 1 AGM battery on my boat with a solar panel attached. Also, how do you know what solar panel to choose with the CTEK and what connections are compatable? Thanks
***** Its a 22v max(for panels) so most likely its in parallel. max? well the max out is 20 amp so it depends on the panels and their performance so you may be able to do 3 or 4 but dont forget you blocking diodes (shaded panels will eat the current of a unshaded)
self build camper Hi I've a question. What are the 2 wires that come from the duel, one is red and the other is black and they are small, the other wire coming from the ctek duel is the temp gauge to the batteries. It says the black is for each and the red is fo switch live or ignition live? Where do you wire yours?
Hi, do you have the D250SA? I have the older D250S which doesn't have an extra two wires. I just had a quick look for the D250SA manual, and I guess you mean the two wires shown on page 7 of this? www.autoelec.com.au/assets/brochures/D250SA-manual-UK-EN.pdf
Self Build Camper Yes it is that,, there's surprisingly little info about that in the manual, I think 1 is earth the other is for ignition live, which means a fuse board hack.. Pffff. Anyway none of the vids cover that.. Thanks for the reply.
You probably figured it out by now... but these 2 wires are to configure the D250SA. You only need to connect the red if you have a smart alternator. You only need to connect the black if you are using AGM batteries. If neither applies you don't need to connect them anywhere. Just tape the out the way somewhere.
Alistair Cochrane Thanks for the reply, I do have a smart alt and I do have agm and I have now connected and it all works great! ☺ you have to go round the fuse board and look for an ignition live and make sure the load side of the fuse board is pointing away from the draw side, if you are using a piggy back fuse.. 👍
Hi, the CTEK units aren't compatible with Lithium unfortunately, neither are the newer models. I used a Votronic VBSC 60/40/430 for my LiFePO4 setup, with a 123 BMS. Working great so far.
Does anyone do anything with 12 to 24v OR 24 to 24v charging, especially with lithium batteries charged with alternators? A DC to DC with buck boost, and cc cv would be nice, and either charge to 85%-95% and hold the voltage there, or to 99% and shut off charging, and be adjustable, lithium will last longer if the middle 90% of the capacity is cycled, it will need a full charge occasionally to get the BMS to balance, my system is difficult to find alternator charging options for, it is lithium ion, 7cells, and full charge to 29.4v this uses 95% of the cells capacity, before the inverter shuts off, and can full charge before over volt shut-off, at 30-31v some can handle 32-34volts, mine low volt shut off is 20-21v I seldom see below 24v great video, but I don't think any of this will help me!!
you can duplicate this setup for much cheaper using non ctek. ctek has the opportunity to combine all these units (including the wall charger)into something compact and all in one. Until they market such a device, I see no rtreason to purchase all these units.
A conventional relay based isolator has the same voltage at input and output when in the on state. A DC-DC charge converter produces a higher output voltage than the input at about 1/3 of charge. Not suitable for parallel hookup. Manual switchover would be possible but then it's not a replacement of this Ctek stuff. I strongly suspect that this Ctek isolator acts as a MOSFET based diode, allowing the DC-DC converter to kick in as soon as the battery reaches the alternator's maximum voltage.
Yes, the smartpass is a MOSFET isolator. The bulk charging and self-jumpstarting features of the Smartpass could be emulated with a VSR + HVD for 1/5th the price. Depends on if one needs the other features and/or a canned solution.
May be it is me who get it wrong. But with the installation, then the starter battery discharge itself to charge the leisure battery. How can you start the engine? - When the starter battery is discharged?
The alternator usually offers 90-150A, the CTEK only uses 20A max, most often way less as the leisure battery fills up (internal resistance). You do the math how the starter battery is charged :-)
Also the alternator puts out around 14 V. The battery is 12.6 V when fully charged so, as soon as you turn the engine off, the module senses that voltage drop and disconnects the line from the starter battery.
Think you have saved me alot of time deciding what system to buy, thanks. Two questions, 1, would this set up be powerful enough to charge 660ah battery set up and is the ctek system compatable with lead crystal batteries as I believe they do better with an initial higher charge rate than other batteries. Thanks
I've watched probably 10 videos on this setup and this is by far the clearest, thank you!
Nearly 6 years on and this is probably still the best dual charging set up. Great clear video with good detail for a beginner like me - thanks!
This is the clearest and most precise video that I have seen by a huge margin that has made my mind up on my system for my new build starting Jan 2019(4th build and still learning) I had a great setup in my last van but require more of grid days. The Ctek controlling solar as well as b2b is the way forward. All my purchases start from the beginning of Jan2019 and was going down the sterling b2b route... many videos later this one has sealed it for Ctek. Subbed
im looking at this or a very similar set up also for a van conversion, so far i see there is a ctek d250sa and a smartpass as well as a ctek d250s dual and a smartpass...do you know of any difference between the two? all i can seem to find is a difference in price
Thank you!
9 years since you uploaded this and I’ve been looking everywhere (including the ctek site) for an explanation of the differences and benefits of each component.
You’ve explained in 6 minutes what I’ve spent hours trying to find!
Again, thank you.
This has helped everything make much more sense. Things I was not clear about at all now make sense. Much appreciated!
thank you! it's finally clear what this combination of systems can do and how it does it.
This fits perfectly my needs and your explanations are so cristal clear. Thanks a lot :-)
Well lit, good sound, excellent explanations. Really high production quality, good job!
@4:05 Close. The voltage-boosting 20A D250 and the alternator-voltage Smartpass isolator run in parallel until the battery back voltage > alternator voltage. From that point on the D250 goes it alone.
The 20A+80A max (or +120A in newer Smartpasses) can only happen in Bulk stage, for which the alternator is probably grateful.
I tested draft circuit today. D250SE+SmartPass0+Monitor+M300 AC/DC Charger and Solar Panel/ 100 Ah Starter Battery and 200 Ah Service Battery with ARB Fridge freezer.Waiting for completed wiring for camping travel.
Great video. Clear and concise with helpful animations
This is great, exactly what I wanted to know.
I agree with all of the positive comments below - this is by far the clearest setup video for the D250 and Smartpass. I would ask that, if you feel inclined, perhaps add what the indicator lights should be doing when charging from each source. My setup was installed by a garage and I am not convinced they have done it correctly but cannot fathom out wether or not my battery charger (connected to the leisure battery) is charging my cranking battery. What should the lights indicate? Many thanks and great vid.
Well explained. I have installed this system in my 4x4 off-road vehilce charging 2 x 105 amp/hr batteries in parrell. I run 2 x Engel 40l fridges one set on feeze. A full charge should keep it going 2 nights and a day. Any more than that I connect my 150 W solar panel.
2 Comments though. Be careful when connecting directly to critical utilities point. If your fridge doesn't have a low voltage cut out it will suffer damage. In any case battery level should not drop below 11V unless you have a critical item
2. My understanding is that the unit will charge the critical battery first .i.e the cranking battery
I would hope that it charges the critical battery first; need to look more into this.
I just wish these units were rated more highly than IP65. Really need IP67+ for our Jeep.
Awesome, I was looking for something like this.
very well explained and nice video, well done sir
Great work. Ctek should be linking to your video! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
What about the smart alternator cable. Can you explain this please.
Wow this thing is brilliant. Need to return my MPPT Charge controller, will really simplify my triple battery setup (1xstarting with 2x6V leisure). I assume the only thing this can't do (because of the size of the wires) is allow an inverter to be run directly from the engine to reduce drain on batteries during high loads.
Very safe units to use.
Great video...well done!!!!
How many watts of solar will the charge controller handle?
I have it (Dual + SmartPass) and it is AMAZING solution.
How many watts of solar panels do you have connected?
Think you have saved me alot of time deciding what system to buy, thanks. Two questions, 1, would this set up be powerful enough to charge 660ah battery set up and is the ctek system compatable with lead crystal batteries as I believe they do better with an initial higher charge rate..
Thanks
Big thanks Sir
thanks a lot. Very helpful instructions.
thank you for great ideal video
fantastic video..
Slightly incorrect,,,
The smartpass is active while a amp flow rate in excess of 20 amps is achieved from the ALT .... this varies from car to car because of running voltage and voltage drop incurred from cabling length (10m + ) so about 70 tp 80% best case for smartpass then the d250s kicks in and completes the charging at a higher rate than the ALT can deliver. about 98% best case due to the final 2% requires 24hrs and you wont drive that long.
with the solar active too it matches the ALT voltage and can extent the process a bit (roof mounted)
If you tie in a 12 gang fuse block to the positive of the Leisure battery to run 12v appliances, where is the negative lead tied off to?
Thanks. This video helps a lot! If you may I do have two questions. 1) I do have three AGM leisure batteries with 115ah each, can I still use the CTEK 250SE? I read that is limited to up 300ah. 2) I'm doing a research about the usage of CTEK Smartpass along with 250SE, which benefits I will have with that? What's the pros and cons to use only the 250SE?
Same question here
Smartpass adds direct alternator charging during Bulk stage. When aux batt voltage > alternator voltage it stops contributing.
Do you need the smart pass to fully charge the main battery. As well or is it just to up the amp from 20amp to 100amp?
Thanks for your time and grate video's
thanks im going to run 2 or 3 x 100 flexible panels so I will hook them up in parallel should be ok
very good instruction
Sorry for the late reply but thank you for the info
Question: when does the start battery ever get a correct charge? Only via 240v?
G'day, just stumbled across this great video however you mentioned you now have 4 x 100Ah batteries. Have made another video incorporating this setup?
You mention the D250 is an MPPT tracker, what does that mean? Is it a solar panel regulator or is it just tracking the voltage output? Can I use in place of an MPPT solar regulator?
>Can I use in place of an MPPT solar regulator?
Yes, although standalone mppt typically work better and have better specs.
How do you compare CTEK to VICTRON?
this guy is really concise very good video bravo!!! I am in the us and planing a build also sorry to see he doesn't respond to questions but since there is recent activity here i will ask a few questions i wish to have a stand alone small inverter generator capable of charging the battery's if i am boon dock for long periods of time using the 240 volt charger module can it accept charge from the smaller 120 volt generator? and in older publications of this model number of dcdc charger it was stated as a 40 amp charger did they reverse engineer for some reason just curious if anyone knows thanks, bigskymike
So what if there are 2 leisure batterys,,, ? Just connect them tigether ? Pos to pos neg to neg
What is the max size of pv and batteries you could connect out of this?
Hi, Can you see any potential issue mainly in a motor home or caravan whereby someone may start their vehicle whilst having the mains charger also plugged in and charging (as remote as this may be) ? Not sure if the SmartPass and Mains charger may get confused here. Perhaps the intro of a relay that always gives precedent to the mains charger or something like that. Great informative video by the way. Well done.
Multiple charging sources are fine as long as the total current is within spec for your battery bank.
So the smartpass basically charges the starter battery once leisure battery is full. The d250s won't do this alone. Im trying to learn what the point of the smartpass is.
Aswell as allowing the extra 80 amps
Great video, thank you.
I got a camper and just bought me a 2nd hand d250s. if I mount it and add a 230 volts charger plugged to the auxiliary battery, will it also charge the start battery, or do I really need the smartpass?
250 will maintain starter battery when aux batt is charged, as described in the manual
Great video. I think this may be the solution I'm looking for. I wonder if you could give us some real life info on the battery charging whilst driving. For instance how much battery charge do you tend to get for 30 minutes of driving would be great info for me to get. Thanks for any answer you may give.
Will this system work ok with 2x 130amp deep cycle agm batteries
What if I have only 120 or 220 hookup? Will this work for that, or would I just need a different smart charger?
Hi there what size cable are you using to connect the battery up .
Brian Leach I think most systems use 4 gauge or thicker
what 240v charger did you use? I've just ordered the 250s and smartpass and would like to keep it all ctek.
good video well done
can i use D250SE on lithium titanate battery
Hi, great video. I am interested in getting the dc to dc charger for my 4wd. I currently have two 110 amp hour batteries plus the starter battery in my vehicle. Do you recommend using the Smartpass for the amount of power i have?
Hi there. I would like to know what the maximum wattage of solar panels that can be used with the ctek 250. Can it handle 2 x 250w solar panels?
Up to 300w iirc, but beware the 23v limit. Needs nominal 12v panels.
Thank you.
anybody know if this will work with a 225 amp 12 volt alternator in my bus
Nice video. These are Not suitable for LifePO4, correct ?
250se version has lithium profile. I would not use the smartpass with Li unless alternator voltage is quite low.
If you are running 4 batteries how would these be wired together. All this to explain what the sales brochure does. God bless anyways
Thanks, at last I get it :)
Love you're video, but does it still matter whether you connect the solar panels in series or parallel? Greetings from Holland
23v input limit, so parallel
Hi, can either of these chargers be used on their own? I want to charge 1 AGM battery on my boat with a solar panel attached. Also, how do you know what solar panel to choose with the CTEK and what connections are compatable? Thanks
Abraham Acheson I read they both can be used by themselves and any solar panel can be used.
THANKS VIDEO AS KNOW BUY LATE CTEK SMARTPASS UNIT AND PUT WITH MY CTEK D250S IN MY LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 1998 AS LIVING AUSTRALIA
QUESTION THAT WHAT WANT ON 24V START BATTLEY AND WANT CHANGE 12V SYSTEM THAT 3 12V BATTLEY?
QUALITY
It's a good set up but I don't think it's compatible with the lithium battery
I have a question:
Where is the second video?
It could be this one:
ua-cam.com/video/P2MhtHGbg4Y/v-deo.html.
or this one:
ua-cam.com/video/cM4cRo5TVKs/v-deo.html
Do you need a regulater in between the solar and the ctek thank you ELLIS
Roy Saxby no
what is the max size of pv I have 2x 100w flexables on my roof would I wire these in parallel or series thanks
*****
Its a 22v max(for panels) so most likely its in parallel.
max? well the max out is 20 amp so it depends on the panels and their performance
so you may be able to do 3 or 4 but dont forget you blocking diodes (shaded panels will eat the current of a unshaded)
self build camper Hi I've a question. What are the 2 wires that come from the duel, one is red and the other is black and they are small, the other wire coming from the ctek duel is the temp gauge to the batteries. It says the black is for each and the red is fo switch live or ignition live? Where do you wire yours?
Hi, do you have the D250SA? I have the older D250S which doesn't have an extra two wires. I just had a quick look for the D250SA manual, and I guess you mean the two wires shown on page 7 of this?
www.autoelec.com.au/assets/brochures/D250SA-manual-UK-EN.pdf
Self Build Camper Yes it is that,, there's surprisingly little info about that in the manual, I think 1 is earth the other is for ignition live, which means a fuse board hack.. Pffff. Anyway none of the vids cover that.. Thanks for the reply.
You probably figured it out by now... but these 2 wires are to configure the D250SA. You only need to connect the red if you have a smart alternator. You only need to connect the black if you are using AGM batteries. If neither applies you don't need to connect them anywhere. Just tape the out the way somewhere.
Alistair Cochrane Thanks for the reply, I do have a smart alt and I do have agm and I have now connected and it all works great! ☺ you have to go round the fuse board and look for an ignition live and make sure the load side of the fuse board is pointing away from the draw side, if you are using a piggy back fuse.. 👍
Is this compatible with lithium batteries??, thanks, great explanation.
Hi, the CTEK units aren't compatible with Lithium unfortunately, neither are the newer models. I used a Votronic VBSC 60/40/430 for my LiFePO4 setup, with a 123 BMS. Working great so far.
CTEK D250SE is the one that does lithium batteries. D250SA is for vehicles newer than around 2015 that have smart alternators
Speech less
Does anyone do anything with 12 to 24v OR 24 to 24v charging, especially with lithium batteries charged with alternators? A DC to DC with buck boost, and cc cv would be nice, and either charge to 85%-95% and hold the voltage there, or to 99% and shut off charging, and be adjustable, lithium will last longer if the middle 90% of the capacity is cycled, it will need a full charge occasionally to get the BMS to balance, my system is difficult to find alternator charging options for, it is lithium ion, 7cells, and full charge to 29.4v this uses 95% of the cells capacity, before the inverter shuts off, and can full charge before over volt shut-off, at 30-31v some can handle 32-34volts, mine low volt shut off is 20-21v I seldom see below 24v great video, but I don't think any of this will help me!!
The U S Army uses 24 volts on most of their equiptment get a repair Manuel and read it .
you can duplicate this setup for much cheaper using non ctek. ctek has the opportunity to combine all these units (including the wall charger)into something compact and all in one. Until they market such a device, I see no rtreason to purchase all these units.
It is odd they dont make a complete unit of 240v charger and these 2 together.
A conventional relay based isolator has the same voltage at input and output when in the on state. A DC-DC charge converter produces a higher output voltage than the input at about 1/3 of charge. Not suitable for parallel hookup. Manual switchover would be possible but then it's not a replacement of this Ctek stuff.
I strongly suspect that this Ctek isolator acts as a MOSFET based diode, allowing the DC-DC converter to kick in as soon as the battery reaches the alternator's maximum voltage.
Yes, the smartpass is a MOSFET isolator.
The bulk charging and self-jumpstarting features of the Smartpass could be emulated with a VSR + HVD for 1/5th the price. Depends on if one needs the other features and/or a canned solution.
This is too simplified. Anybody have a full diagram?
The manual has wiring diagrams for different scenarios. Pdf online
Awesome video!
But is it possible to start the car with this setup? If the start battery is dead?
Start trought the AUX battery?
Not sure if a good idea, but I did on several occasions :)
myselfbuildcamper.co.uk/the-jump-start-system/
hey what's the 3 controller on the right top ?
May be it is me who get it wrong.
But with the installation, then the starter battery discharge itself to charge the leisure battery.
How can you start the engine? - When the starter battery is discharged?
The alternator usually offers 90-150A, the CTEK only uses 20A max, most often way less as the leisure battery fills up (internal resistance). You do the math how the starter battery is charged :-)
Also the alternator puts out around 14 V. The battery is 12.6 V when fully charged so, as soon as you turn the engine off, the module senses that voltage drop and disconnects the line from the starter battery.
Not a review, just an explanation
It’s more of a install video than a review IMO….
Think you have saved me alot of time deciding what system to buy, thanks. Two questions, 1, would this set up be powerful enough to charge 660ah battery set up and is the ctek system compatable with lead crystal batteries as I believe they do better with an initial higher charge rate than other batteries.
Thanks