Thank you for posting this video. It inspired me to try fixing my own safe. When I called customer service, I was told that I needed to purchase the solenoid and keypad for $100 because the locks on my safe would not remain locked. Meaning that the locks would engage and disengage just by turning the handle. When I opened the back, I found that a piece of the fire protection material for the door had broken off and fallen into the area where the plastic switch retracts. This was preventing the switch from retracting all the way, which in turn caused the safe to not remain locked. Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting it.
Thank you for taking the time to write this. I have been fortunate enough to benefit from lots of other folks’ uploads so thought I should give back on this one. So very happy I did.
Thank you Vance. I had bought the magnet but my safe the solenoid is in a different position and when I watched your video I saw where your solenoid is located and I was able to open the safe. I took out the solenoid and I am now using the key only.
Thank you Peter. It’s always nice to know the finer details. Now I just wish they’d make something that doesn’t break so easily since the safe gets opened only a few times a year.
Thank you Vance for the video. My Mother has a s3517; it was locked OPENED. Though she entered the code to the safe, the lock would not disengage for her to close the door. You video gave me some insight of the sentry locking mechanism. I broke off the back cover, sprayed WD-40 on the gears, and pushed in the white round release level while lightly tapping the locking mechanism bolts. After a few taps on the bolts, the locking mechanism released. I entered the code and the locks disengaged. I repeatedly locked and unlocked the safe to ensure it was properly working (There is a little slip due to the WD-40 and the back cover is broke on the left inside, but overall the safe works!). She is happy for she was able to throw the safe out. Thanks again!
I didn’t drill... just kept beating the front of the door with the mallet and within about 8 mins it finally opened! thanks for the vid.... saw a few other before this stating trash it , your statements are better - just disco and use the key. Perfect!
wow, I'm going to try that I'm in the same 5 beep problem thousands of others have. Cant believe this company is still in business. they need class action against them to take notice
Thank you very much. Same issue. stuck solenoid. I was hoping to find some instructions how to properly drill it out and then found your video , pulled my rubber mallet and got it open.
Thank you. I tilted the safe so the face was almost touching the floor and it opened. Your advice was instrumental in opening my old model s3517 that didn't have a key. The electronic code worked but the lever would not budge.
I haven’t played with mine yet, but laying the safe on its back helps open it regardless of my problem…… Thank you for your excellent video. Mine happens to be the larger model a5835
Thanks so much for sharing. I have the exact safe and my keypad / solenoid died. I opened mine with three blows with the rubber mallet with it sitting upright and impact on door directly opposite the solenoid. On the third strike with the mallet I pushed down on the handle as soon as I hit it. If you have pressure on the handle before you strike the door it puts a load on the solenoid pin which makes it hard/impossible for the solenoid to retract. This might help in your quest to open your safe. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I had an issue with the mechanical switch that locks when closed. The metal tab was hitting the bar to low and caused the safe to not open. This is noticeable if your handle goes about 75% and the safe won't open. Taking a file to grind down the bar lip fixed it. I will share with everyone the most difficult thing is gett the cover back in. Used a dremel to open up the holes since the lid did fit back as tight. Added some screws to keep the cover more secure.
If your safe is locked and you cannot push the silver handle down it is being blocked by the solenoid tip and the safe is as clearly jammed as mine was. Laying the safe on its face, not its back, may help since gravity is your friend in this case. You also need to make sure that the mechanical lock (key) has been used to unlock that portion of the mechanism and then pound down on the silver handle with a rubber mallet until the handle breaks free. Pushing the silver handle down with the safe door open moves the bars as in as far as they will ever go. They do not clear the plastic back at any time. You will most likely break one or two of the small plastic pieces located in the corners of the plastic back. I see nothing you can do to prevent this as you carefully pry the back off but when you put the plastic back back on it pops back into place and shows no ill effects whatsoever from the process. You can see one of the plastic retaining pieces above the nearest upper silver bar at :43 in the video. Note: Please understand you have to break the solenoid tip off to ever use the safe again since it blocks the handle from opening as shown in this video and that part is metallic so it will feel like you are about to break something if you are doing it correctly...because you are.
I have this problem but my safe doesn't have a key. I tried lubricating the solenoid and hooking it up to more power without success. But the rubber mallet worked the first time! Thank you!
@@chrishollar6080 the solenoid on mine was in the upper right. I carefully from the video try to approximate where the solenoid was hoping to hit it with my drill bit. I drilled and missed. So I drilled again and missed. So that I just decided to keep drilling holes. I think on the 4th hole I was slightly to the left of the solenoid and I hit that bar that goes across for the locking mechanism. It snapped the bar in half and the safe popped open. Now the front of my safe looks like swiss cheese though
I had figure out why the solenoid won’t release the handle, mine did the same thing! Its because if the handle is press down while you put your code in it catches the solenoid and prevent the solenoid from releasing the handle. To fixed this problem is to hold the handle up, or make sure the handle is lifted up and not press down while putting the code in!
I was told by Sentry that if you hit underneath the Y of the name in front of the safe 20 times with a rubber mallet and then enter the code it will work if your batteries are okay. My leads were a little coroded where the batteries go so he had me disconnect them and attach a 9-volt. I think I'll just hide things under my mattress versus dealing with this again but first I will try using the key as suggested
HI, my Sentry safe will not open with the correct code. The handle won't move. Tried all the tips Sentry recommended and seems it's a broken solenoid. I just want to get it open to remove what's in there. Any ideas on how to get contents out without calling a locksmith?
The 1st time trick to opening the POS sentry Safe I found on the internet was, the good old donkey kick. I tried that the first several times and was able to open the door. I should have never shut the door. Should have thrown that POS out. Now I can never open it.... I DO have a rubber mallet and I was unsuccessful. I have flipped that safe upside down I've thrown it across the room I've even thought of getting a saw and trying to saw through the safe. I don't know didn't even know there was a key that came with it. I just looked...there is no key hole...
Thanks for the video! Hey I'm looking at my components and it doesn't seem I have that piece piece that engages the locks when closed.I'm looking at it and it doesn't seem there was ever a piece there. This is the first time i'm tinkering with this safe
I have a safe where the door is open with the deadbolts sticking out like it would be locked, but the dial wont turn at all and the handle wont pull down to open the safe, would anybody know what the problem is?
What if my handle turns but doesn't 'catch' ? It doesn't seem to engage the locks; it only turns...feels like it's slipping, like it's stripped. How can I engage the locks? My safe was sitting in a friend's garage for 3 years, and I think her boyfriend was trying to open it and 'stripped' it. Does this make sense?
It sounds like maybe the circular piece pf plastic that can be seen @ the 1:14 mark (in the upper right quadrant of the interior of safe's door) is stripped. It has all of the gears that engage the bars into the safe. Cannot be sure but I see no other explanation for what you are describing. I have no idea how to help with that. Sorry! I would say reach put to Sentry directly @ www.sentrysafe.com. Good luck.
My elderly father in laws safe did the same thing. The handle does not engage the bolts and moves up and down with strong pressure. Maybe the 20th try will get it open. This thing is junk
My model has no key...I called CS and they sent me a solenoid free of charge... So now, how do I replace it? The bolt mechanisms are in the way...I can't get a screwdriver in to unscrew the solenoid... I'm awaiting an email from CS with instructions...
Does any one know which wires are going to the solenoid. there are 4 wires going in and solenoid will need two wires and not sure which one are going to the solenoid.
I have the same safe that I just picked up at a thrift store. I have the factory password, but I don’t have the key. The door is open, but it’s stuck in the lock position. Is there anyway to unlock it without the key?
When I put the cover back on to the door the latch that pushed back to expand the bolts will not expand the bolts. With the cover off the latch works fine. It is only when the cover goes on the latch will not work. Is something blocking the latch?
I took my safe apart to analyze this and I can recreate your issue quite easily. It might be cover related issue at all since I can find no area where the cover touches any internal parts in a a manner that would cause this. The issue appears to be related to the small piece of metal that provides friction for the bottom left bolt as you face the open safe with the cover off. It's attached by a single screw and is a simple piece of easily bent, thin metal. There is a happy medium level of friction needed to keep the bolts out of the way when the safe is open and you can bend it with your finger to achieve that. Based on my research, you just need to bend this back toward you a bit. I did not even have the problem until I tried to analyze your issue and by pushing it away from me the friction became too high and the door lugs would not move into the proper position, just like you describe.
About how far down and inward would you say the solenoid is located? I ask because my safe won't open because of a faulty solenoid. I'm going to try opening it with a magnet or a rubber mallet. Knowing the position of the solenoid would greatly improve my chances of success.
The solenoid top is located 4" from the top of the swinging door (Not the top of the safe! I opened the safe and removed the inside cover in order to give you exact measurements from the door edges). The left edge of the solenoid is located 2" from the right side of the closed door and goes to 3 1/4" from the right side in its total length. Good luck!
If your safe is locked and you cannot push the silver handle down it is being blocked by the solenoid tip and the safe is as clearly jammed as mine was. Laying the safe on its face, not its back, may help since gravity is your friend in this case. You also need to make sure that the mechanical lock (key) has been used to unlock that portion of the mechanism and then pound down on the silver handle with a rubber mallet until the handle breaks free. Pushing the silver handle down with the safe door open moves the bars as in as far as they will ever go. They do not clear the plastic back at any time. You will most likely break one or two of the small plastic pieces located in the corners of the plastic back. I see nothing you can do to prevent this as you carefully pry the back off but when you put the plastic back back on it pops back into place and shows no ill effects whatsoever from the process. You can see one of the plastic retaining pieces above the nearest upper silver bar at :43 in the video. Note: Please understand you have to break the solenoid tip off to ever use the safe again since it blocks the handle from opening as shown in this video and that part is metallic so it will feel like you are about to break something if you are doing it correctly...because you are.
Trent, I’m not sure what the issue is but you’re the only person to report this and I’ve listened to this after your note and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the audio. Please check your settings again and I’m sorry this isn’t working for you.
Thanks for the advice. Great job~ Nice home porn collection, inside the safe, by the way. I reminds me, I need safe just for that! HAHA! Ok Ok... I'm sure it's just precious home video you wanted to protect against fire. Yep that's cool too!
Thank you for posting this video. It inspired me to try fixing my own safe. When I called customer service, I was told that I needed to purchase the solenoid and keypad for $100 because the locks on my safe would not remain locked. Meaning that the locks would engage and disengage just by turning the handle. When I opened the back, I found that a piece of the fire protection material for the door had broken off and fallen into the area where the plastic switch retracts. This was preventing the switch from retracting all the way, which in turn caused the safe to not remain locked. Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting it.
Thank you for taking the time to write this. I have been fortunate enough to benefit from lots of other folks’ uploads so thought I should give back on this one. So very happy I did.
Thank you Vance. I had bought the magnet but my safe the solenoid is in a different position and when I watched your video I saw where your solenoid is located and I was able to open the safe. I took out the solenoid and I am now using the key only.
did you use the magnet on the solenoid on yours? in the different location?
Thank you Peter. It’s always nice to know the finer details.
Now I just wish they’d make something that doesn’t break so easily since the safe gets opened only a few times a year.
Thank you Vance for the video. My Mother has a s3517; it was locked OPENED. Though she entered the code to the safe, the lock would not disengage for her to close the door. You video gave me some insight of the sentry locking mechanism. I broke off the back cover, sprayed WD-40 on the gears, and pushed in the white round release level while lightly tapping the locking mechanism bolts. After a few taps on the bolts, the locking mechanism released. I entered the code and the locks disengaged. I repeatedly locked and unlocked the safe to ensure it was properly working (There is a little slip due to the WD-40 and the back cover is broke on the left inside, but overall the safe works!). She is happy for she was able to throw the safe out. Thanks again!
I didn’t drill... just kept beating the front of the door with the mallet and within about 8 mins it finally opened! thanks for the vid.... saw a few other before this stating trash it , your statements are better - just disco and use the key. Perfect!
wow, I'm going to try that I'm in the same 5 beep problem thousands of others have. Cant believe this company is still in business. they need class action against them to take notice
I share your frustration. What a cheap piece of shit product.
Thank you very much. Same issue. stuck solenoid. I was hoping to find some instructions how to properly drill it out and then found your video , pulled my rubber mallet and got it open.
You went right to the problem I was having and the fix was simple. Thank you!
Thank you. I tilted the safe so the face was almost touching the floor and it opened. Your advice was instrumental in opening my old model s3517 that didn't have a key. The electronic code worked but the lever would not budge.
I haven’t played with mine yet, but laying the safe on its back helps open it regardless of my problem……
Thank you for your excellent video. Mine happens to be the larger model a5835
Thanks so much for sharing. I have the exact safe and my keypad / solenoid died. I opened mine with three blows with the rubber mallet with it sitting upright and impact on door directly opposite the solenoid. On the third strike with the mallet I pushed down on the handle as soon as I hit it. If you have pressure on the handle before you strike the door it puts a load on the solenoid pin which makes it hard/impossible for the solenoid to retract. This might help in your quest to open your safe. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I had an issue with the mechanical switch that locks when closed. The metal tab was hitting the bar to low and caused the safe to not open. This is noticeable if your handle goes about 75% and the safe won't open. Taking a file to grind down the bar lip fixed it. I will share with everyone the most difficult thing is gett the cover back in. Used a dremel to open up the holes since the lid did fit back as tight. Added some screws to keep the cover more secure.
This actually worked!! A few firm hits of a hammer left and right of the door. Voilà!
Thank you!!
If your safe is locked and you cannot push the silver handle down it is being blocked by the solenoid tip and the safe is as clearly jammed as mine was. Laying the safe on its face, not its back, may help since gravity is your friend in this case. You also need to make sure that the mechanical lock (key) has been used to unlock that portion of the mechanism and then pound down on the silver handle with a rubber mallet until the handle breaks free.
Pushing the silver handle down with the safe door open moves the bars as in as far as they will ever go. They do not clear the plastic back at any time. You will most likely break one or two of the small plastic pieces located in the corners of the plastic back. I see nothing you can do to prevent this as you carefully pry the back off but when you put the plastic back back on it pops back into place and shows no ill effects whatsoever from the process. You can see one of the plastic retaining pieces above the nearest upper silver bar at :43 in the video.
Note: Please understand you have to break the solenoid tip off to ever use the safe again since it blocks the handle from opening as shown in this video and that part is metallic so it will feel like you are about to break something if you are doing it correctly...because you are.
I have this problem but my safe doesn't have a key. I tried lubricating the solenoid and hooking it up to more power without success. But the rubber mallet worked the first time! Thank you!
Glad to hear it.
Thank you it worked for me. Mine was so dead with new batteries. Tried 9volt energizer and 4 AA Duracell no sound Dead.
Thanks for the video... it helped me to determine where my solenoid was in order to drill open my broken safe. :)
I'm in that situation right now, where did you drill, and do you have any pointers?
@@chrishollar6080 the solenoid on mine was in the upper right. I carefully from the video try to approximate where the solenoid was hoping to hit it with my drill bit. I drilled and missed. So I drilled again and missed. So that I just decided to keep drilling holes. I think on the 4th hole I was slightly to the left of the solenoid and I hit that bar that goes across for the locking mechanism. It snapped the bar in half and the safe popped open. Now the front of my safe looks like swiss cheese though
This was very very helpful.
you can open it with a big magnet . you pull it upwards in a sock and it will open every safe with a digital combination system
Unfortunately, those magnets are pricey!
I had figure out why the solenoid won’t release the handle, mine did the same thing!
Its because if the handle is press down while you put your code in it catches the solenoid and prevent the solenoid from releasing the handle.
To fixed this problem is to hold the handle up, or make sure the handle is lifted up and not press down while putting the code in!
I was told by Sentry that if you hit underneath the Y of the name in front of the safe 20 times with a rubber mallet and then enter the code it will work if your batteries are okay. My leads were a little coroded where the batteries go so he had me disconnect them and attach a 9-volt. I think I'll just hide things under my mattress versus dealing with this again but first I will try using the key as suggested
My Sentry safe has failed, just have keypad, I WILL NEVER BUY A SAFE FROM SENTRY SAFE AGAIN.
Thanks man exactly what it was with mine.
I will try this tomorrow. Thank you
HI, my Sentry safe will not open with the correct code. The handle won't move. Tried all the tips Sentry recommended and seems it's a broken solenoid. I just want to get it open to remove what's in there. Any ideas on how to get contents out without calling a locksmith?
Check out the Lock Picking Lawyer's channel. You can saw through one of those safes with a skilsaw in about three minutes...
The 1st time trick to opening the POS sentry Safe I found on the internet was, the good old donkey kick. I tried that the first several times and was able to open the door. I should have never shut the door. Should have thrown that POS out. Now I can never open it.... I DO have a rubber mallet and I was unsuccessful. I have flipped that safe upside down I've thrown it across the room I've even thought of getting a saw and trying to saw through the safe.
I don't know didn't even know there was a key that came with it. I just looked...there is no key hole...
Thanks for the video! Hey I'm looking at my components and it doesn't seem I have that piece piece that engages the locks when closed.I'm looking at it and it doesn't seem there was ever a piece there. This is the first time i'm tinkering with this safe
Thanks for sharing.
I have a safe where the door is open with the deadbolts sticking out like it would be locked, but the dial wont turn at all and the handle wont pull down to open the safe, would anybody know what the problem is?
What if my handle turns but doesn't 'catch' ? It doesn't seem to engage the locks; it only turns...feels like it's slipping, like it's stripped.
How can I engage the locks?
My safe was sitting in a friend's garage for 3 years, and I think her boyfriend was trying to open it and 'stripped' it. Does this make sense?
It sounds like maybe the circular piece pf plastic that can be seen @ the 1:14 mark (in the upper right quadrant of the interior of safe's door) is stripped. It has all of the gears that engage the bars into the safe. Cannot be sure but I see no other explanation for what you are describing. I have no idea how to help with that. Sorry! I would say reach put to Sentry directly @ www.sentrysafe.com. Good luck.
My safe has the same issue
I changed solenoid valve and could
Not put the bolts in place. The door closes but it doesn’t get locked
My elderly father in laws safe did the same thing. The handle does not engage the bolts and moves up and down with strong pressure. Maybe the 20th try will get it open. This thing is junk
143 subscriber 😃 now that’s Squizitzi!
My model has no key...I called CS and they sent me a solenoid free of charge...
So now, how do I replace it? The bolt mechanisms are in the way...I can't get a screwdriver in to unscrew the solenoid...
I'm awaiting an email from CS with instructions...
How did you open it in the first place
Does any one know which wires are going to the solenoid. there are 4 wires going in and solenoid will need two wires and not sure which one are going to the solenoid.
I have the same safe that I just picked up at a thrift store. I have the factory password, but I don’t have the key. The door is open, but it’s stuck in the lock position. Is there anyway to unlock it without the key?
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rob ya🤔
When I put the cover back on to the door the latch that pushed back to expand the bolts will not expand the bolts. With the cover off the latch works fine. It is only when the cover goes on the latch will not work. Is something blocking the latch?
I took my safe apart to analyze this and I can recreate your issue quite easily. It might be cover related issue at all since I can find no area where the cover touches any internal parts in a a manner that would cause this.
The issue appears to be related to the small piece of metal that provides friction for the bottom left bolt as you face the open safe with the cover off. It's attached by a single screw and is a simple piece of easily bent, thin metal. There is a happy medium level of friction needed to keep the bolts out of the way when the safe is open and you can bend it with your finger to achieve that.
Based on my research, you just need to bend this back toward you a bit. I did not even have the problem until I tried to analyze your issue and by pushing it away from me the friction became too high and the door lugs would not move into the proper position, just like you describe.
also you can open it from bottom with just basic tools. this wiil brake the safe buy iy is actually really weak..
About how far down and inward would you say the solenoid is located?
I ask because my safe won't open because of a faulty solenoid. I'm going to try opening it with a magnet or a rubber mallet. Knowing the position of the solenoid would greatly improve my chances of success.
The solenoid top is located 4" from the top of the swinging door (Not the top of the safe! I opened the safe and removed the inside cover in order to give you exact measurements from the door edges). The left edge of the solenoid is located 2" from the right side of the closed door and goes to 3 1/4" from the right side in its total length. Good luck!
Where is the solenoid located on the S5741?
Any tips to get the bars to go in so that I can take the back piece of the door off?
If your safe is locked and you cannot push the silver handle down it is being blocked by the solenoid tip and the safe is as clearly jammed as mine was. Laying the safe on its face, not its back, may help since gravity is your friend in this case. You also need to make sure that the mechanical lock (key) has been used to unlock that portion of the mechanism and then pound down on the silver handle with a rubber mallet until the handle breaks free.
Pushing the silver handle down with the safe door open moves the bars as in as far as they will ever go. They do not clear the plastic back at any time. You will most likely break one or two of the small plastic pieces located in the corners of the plastic back. I see nothing you can do to prevent this as you carefully pry the back off but when you put the plastic back back on it pops back into place and shows no ill effects whatsoever from the process. You can see one of the plastic retaining pieces above the nearest upper silver bar at :43 in the video.
Note: Please understand you have to break the solenoid tip off to ever use the safe again since it blocks the handle from opening as shown in this video and that part is metallic so it will feel like you are about to break something if you are doing it correctly...because you are.
I got my solenoid for free when I called the number
Vance
I've been trying to find online this exact model of safe. Can you please let me know the model number?
Thanx, Pamela
The Sentry model # is CSW3813.
Thank you very much!@@vancegulickson
Please speak up... I have the volume turned up all the way, and it sounds like you're mumbling... thanks, and I'm sorry to complain
Trent, I’m not sure what the issue is but you’re the only person to report this and I’ve listened to this after your note and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the audio. Please check your settings again and I’m sorry this isn’t working for you.
Maybe there's problem with my phone.. I have the media volume all the way up.
Mine is electronic only. That solenoid is a piece of shit design.
Thanks for the advice. Great job~
Nice home porn collection, inside the safe, by the way. I reminds me, I need safe just for that! HAHA!
Ok Ok... I'm sure it's just precious home video you wanted to protect against fire. Yep that's cool too!
Safes are trash..
I had to beat my unmerciful
When my solenoid died...
This dude
He hi ghost girl
Squizitzi that’s Italian for yummy 😋