Thanks for the input. That's actually a great comment. However, out of curiosity, I can't help but ask why? The flow efficiency numbers of the round pipe are far superior to square pipe. Square pipe creates eddy currents and turbulence. This, of course, means much lower draft strength. In fact, the eddys subsequent turbulence inherent to a square or rectangular stack cause very unpredictable changes in pressures inside the cook chamber. Since the stack is the "engine" of the entire system, I prefer not to handicap myself with a less efficient primary component. My cookers are geared more for the restaurant/catering niche. Although they need to look good, performance and consistency are the primary objectives. I will concede that square/rectangular stacks look cool on some of the octagonal cookers. But again, if I'm gonna run the system for 12 to 14 hours at a time and that $400 to $600 worth of brisket has to be right for that wedding or other party, I'd rather have the best tool for the job.
@mysticsmokers3014 square or round, doesn't matter. I agree round creates a better, less restricted flow. I'm talking about larger flow capacity. 6 in. round would be perfect as well.
Hi. Great videos, I’m building a 120 gallon smoker right now with my dad. But I wanted to ask what cutting wheel brand or model do you recommend? Any other tool must have’s you would recommend? Thank you in advance
The tools that I could not do without are (in order of importance after a good quality mig welder): 1. The build table 2. 4.5" grinder(s) 3. Carbide chop saw 4. Torch (plasma will work, but a torch is more versatile) I would say those 4 items are necessary for me. Everything else just makes the job easier. The cutting wheel for the grinder is 1.2mm cutter from Amazon. I use 36,50,80 grit sanding discs with the backing plate on a second grinder to avoid having to swap over. I've tried about every grinder out there. My favorite is the little Dewalt (DWE43116). I have 4 of them set up for different functions. I prefer the Evolution 380 chop saw. Evolution S380CPS There are two versions. This model is more expensive, but it's virtually bulletproof. I use the 14" blades for mild steel. I hope this helps. Feel free to reach out via email at mysticsmokers@gmail.com. I can provide a phone number there for text questions. That's my preference.
My 330g/250g cookers usually get a 31-inch wide door. I come down from 12 o'clock two inches on the 30-inch diameter tanks. I put the top seam on 12 o'clock with 24-inch tanks. Since not all tanks are exactly the same length, I come off the end cap weld 2 inches. Then, use a 4 inch post between doors. That usually works out to 31 inches but that's not important. The spacing on either side of the opening is important.
Great question. It depends on how much it moved. If it was my personal tank ( not for sale) and it was just a small amount (less than 1/4"), I'd try to move the tank to match it. I've used jacks and blocks to push the tank open. I've welded temporary tabs to attach turnbuckles and pullef the tank in to match the doors. I've welded beads on the door inside face to curve the door in. Sadly, none of those will be a perfect solution as its always a combination of movement in both, the door and tank. Take some measurements in various places and try to determine where your flex occurred. Door flex is usually uniform. Tank flex is worse in the door centers and of course stabl at the corners. You should be able to get it close depending severity. It may take a good bit of time and effort but if its your own build and your only tank, its likely worth it. If its production tank, I'd scrap it for two reasons. First is the fact that it will likely never be "right" ans second, it could take many hours and attempts to get it right. Especially if the door panels opened a good bit. They are more difficult to move than the tank. Have you already put the door bands on and how thick/ wide are they? You are welcome to contact me via email and then phone and I can give more information based on my experiences.
Yes. I have a plasma cutter that I use for other tasks. Plasma is not the ideal tool for cutting doors in my opinion and experience. It imparts far too much heat in the material and risks warping the door panel and tank itself. For me, perfect fitting doors is mandatory. The cold cut saw is obviously the most gentle on the material while the angle grinder comes in second. The plasma is extremely quick and much easier but the sacrifice is heat.
Im sure its been asked before but what do you use to clear the remaining gas out of the tank before you cut so it dont explode? Do you soak it like some folks?
That's a great question. Here's what I do: 1. Remove the valves after you're sure the tank is empty. 2. Dump one gallon of cheap dish soap inside. 3. Fill the tank to about 8 inches of water. 4. Shake it around or stir it with a stick through one of the holes. 5. Let it sit for a few days if you can. This allows the soad to work with the mercaptan oil in the bottom of the tank. 6. Fill to overflowing with water on level ground. This pushes all gas from the tank. 7. Some guys let it sit for a few days to allow the soap to work with the mercaptan smell on the walls. Personally, I dont know if this makes any difference. 8. I've heard a weak bleach solution will help break the mercaptan odor down. I'm gonna try this on the next tank as my last tank was very strong. 9. At this point, I take the tank to be professionally sandblasted. The old industrial paint is a far greater danger than the gas in my opinion. Occasionally, I drill a 4" hole in the end before draining the tank out of an abundance of caution. Use a cordless drill as electrocution is a real danger. Im sure cutting while full of water is unnecessary, but my sandblaster guy prefers there to be a large hole in the tank before he starts on it.
@donsamford6026 Reach to me on mysticsmokers@gmail.com and I would be glad to send photos of the build on the jib crane. FB Messenger would even be easier. I'm easy to find.
What would be the process ,if there is a hump or bow that would show after cutting doors. I am building one now, and of course the very bottom of the door has a bow or has sprung?
This is such a broad question it really needs to be handled over the phone. There are so many possible issues. Contact me via the mysticsmokers@gmail.com email and I'll give my phone number there. I'll walk you through causes and solutions.
Unlike on the big evolution 380, I see no difference in blades for the little Dewalt. The Diablo blades are cheap, so I usually get them. Amazon will frequently offer them in multipacks. Sometimes 8 or 10 in a pack. That's when I buy them. Cheap blades dont hold up on the big saws but they seem fine on the baby saw.
Sorry, but I don't think this project is for you. There are plenty of builders out who dont mind shortcuts. Perhaps those would be a better fit. Good luck. Thanks for the comment.
Great work, love the back breaking saving equipment. Stumbled onto your channel, and I'm subscribed.
I'm glad you have enjoyed the series so far.
Let me know if there are any additional tipics you'd like to see.
Excellent video! Thanks, again.
I appreciate the precision and the information being shared.
I now have a sense of direction on my 170 gallon build. Thank you 👍
That's great to hear! Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help.
Jigsaw works good for metal cutting too, on those small holes
Oh, you mean where I had to modify the blade? Yeah, that would work.
The grinder on the hoist! 👏👏👏
Yeah, that 5hp grinder is like holding a Briggs 5hp. I can't hold it long.
Love the rotisserie!
Thanks. There's a short video clip on my Facebook profile.
I would've used a 6x6 square tubing for my chimney. But it still looks nice. Congrats
Thanks for the input. That's actually a great comment. However, out of curiosity, I can't help but ask why?
The flow efficiency numbers of the round pipe are far superior to square pipe. Square pipe creates eddy currents and turbulence. This, of course, means much lower draft strength. In fact, the eddys subsequent turbulence inherent to a square or rectangular stack cause very unpredictable changes in pressures inside the cook chamber.
Since the stack is the "engine" of the entire system, I prefer not to handicap myself with a less efficient primary component.
My cookers are geared more for the restaurant/catering niche. Although they need to look good, performance and consistency are the primary objectives.
I will concede that square/rectangular stacks look cool on some of the octagonal cookers. But again, if I'm gonna run the system for 12 to 14 hours at a time and that $400 to $600 worth of brisket has to be right for that wedding or other party, I'd rather have the best tool for the job.
@mysticsmokers3014 square or round, doesn't matter. I agree round creates a better, less restricted flow. I'm talking about larger flow capacity. 6 in. round would be perfect as well.
Hi. Great videos, I’m building a 120 gallon smoker right now with my dad. But I wanted to ask what cutting wheel brand or model do you recommend? Any other tool must have’s you would recommend? Thank you in advance
The tools that I could not do without are (in order of importance after a good quality mig welder):
1. The build table
2. 4.5" grinder(s)
3. Carbide chop saw
4. Torch (plasma will work, but a torch is more versatile)
I would say those 4 items are necessary for me. Everything else just makes the job easier.
The cutting wheel for the grinder is 1.2mm cutter from Amazon.
I use 36,50,80 grit sanding discs with the backing plate on a second grinder to avoid having to swap over.
I've tried about every grinder out there. My favorite is the little Dewalt
(DWE43116). I have 4 of them set up for different functions.
I prefer the Evolution 380 chop saw. Evolution S380CPS
There are two versions. This model is more expensive, but it's virtually bulletproof. I use the 14" blades for mild steel.
I hope this helps.
Feel free to reach out via email at mysticsmokers@gmail.com. I can provide a phone number there for text questions. That's my preference.
Excellent work. What are the doors dimensions? Thanks
My 330g/250g cookers usually get a 31-inch wide door.
I come down from 12 o'clock two inches on the 30-inch diameter tanks.
I put the top seam on 12 o'clock with 24-inch tanks.
Since not all tanks are exactly the same length, I come off the end cap weld 2 inches. Then, use a 4 inch post between doors. That usually works out to 31 inches but that's not important. The spacing on either side of the opening is important.
How u cut u propane tanks to avoid explosion. Thanks
🔥🔥🔥
I did the same my door after banding did not close all the way about 3/16 gap before closing
Im not sure what you're telling me. The door flexed?
So what would you have done if the door/tank moved? I just cut my door and either it sank in or the tank bowed out in the center.
Great question. It depends on how much it moved. If it was my personal tank ( not for sale) and it was just a small amount (less than 1/4"), I'd try to move the tank to match it.
I've used jacks and blocks to push the tank open. I've welded temporary tabs to attach turnbuckles and pullef the tank in to match the doors. I've welded beads on the door inside face to curve the door in.
Sadly, none of those will be a perfect solution as its always a combination of movement in both, the door and tank.
Take some measurements in various places and try to determine where your flex occurred. Door flex is usually uniform. Tank flex is worse in the door centers and of course stabl at the corners.
You should be able to get it close depending severity. It may take a good bit of time and effort but if its your own build and your only tank, its likely worth it. If its production tank, I'd scrap it for two reasons. First is the fact that it will likely never be "right" ans second, it could take many hours and attempts to get it right. Especially if the door panels opened a good bit. They are more difficult to move than the tank.
Have you already put the door bands on and how thick/ wide are they?
You are welcome to contact me via email and then phone and I can give more information based on my experiences.
Have you tried a plasma cutter yet? I was surprised at how fast they cut.
Yes. I have a plasma cutter that I use for other tasks. Plasma is not the ideal tool for cutting doors in my opinion and experience. It imparts far too much heat in the material and risks warping the door panel and tank itself.
For me, perfect fitting doors is mandatory.
The cold cut saw is obviously the most gentle on the material while the angle grinder comes in second.
The plasma is extremely quick and much easier but the sacrifice is heat.
Im sure its been asked before but what do you use to clear the remaining gas out of the tank before you cut so it dont explode? Do you soak it like some folks?
That's a great question. Here's what I do:
1. Remove the valves after you're sure the tank is empty.
2. Dump one gallon of cheap dish soap inside.
3. Fill the tank to about 8 inches of water.
4. Shake it around or stir it with a stick through one of the holes.
5. Let it sit for a few days if you can. This allows the soad to work with the mercaptan oil in the bottom of the tank.
6. Fill to overflowing with water on level ground. This pushes all gas from the tank.
7. Some guys let it sit for a few days to allow the soap to work with the mercaptan smell on the walls. Personally, I dont know if this makes any difference.
8. I've heard a weak bleach solution will help break the mercaptan odor down. I'm gonna try this on the next tank as my last tank was very strong.
9. At this point, I take the tank to be professionally sandblasted. The old industrial paint is a far greater danger than the gas in my opinion.
Occasionally, I drill a 4" hole in the end before draining the tank out of an abundance of caution. Use a cordless drill as electrocution is a real danger.
Im sure cutting while full of water is unnecessary, but my sandblaster guy prefers there to be a large hole in the tank before he starts on it.
Nice shop crane! Can we see a video about that? Many thanks!
Ok. I'm building a smaller version for my lathe. I'll post some video of that build as well.
@@mysticsmokers3014 I also wanted info on the gantry, is it mounted to the building frame, or is the up right a stand alone beam.
@donsamford6026
Reach to me on mysticsmokers@gmail.com and I would be glad to send photos of the build on the jib crane.
FB Messenger would even be easier. I'm easy to find.
What would be the process ,if there is a hump or bow that would show after cutting doors. I am building one now, and of course the very bottom of the door has a bow or has sprung?
This is such a broad question it really needs to be handled over the phone. There are so many possible issues.
Contact me via the mysticsmokers@gmail.com email and I'll give my phone number there. I'll walk you through causes and solutions.
Hello Mystic smokers,
What model cordless cutting saw do you use and what’s the blade you use for it?
Thanks.
Check this out! a.co/d/exnBe7X
I use the dewalt blades or the Diablo blades.
@@mysticsmokers3014 Ty SIR!
Use a air hack saw
Could use a jigsaw on the corners 🤔
With a metal cutting blade, yes. You could even use a hand held hacksaw blade.
What blade is on that 5.5 dewalt circular saw?
Unlike on the big evolution 380, I see no difference in blades for the little Dewalt.
The Diablo blades are cheap, so I usually get them. Amazon will frequently offer them in multipacks. Sometimes 8 or 10 in a pack. That's when I buy them.
Cheap blades dont hold up on the big saws but they seem fine on the baby saw.
@@mysticsmokers3014 so a 30 or 40 teeth is good to cut that metal?
@frankie4speed818 usually the 5.5" 30T it doesn't drag as bad
@@mysticsmokers3014 thanks for the help and the videos!!
How many years take to build this project 🤔 I hope I'm still alive 🙏
Sorry, but I don't think this project is for you. There are plenty of builders out who dont mind shortcuts.
Perhaps those would be a better fit.
Good luck. Thanks for the comment.
Don't want to be old talk to much 😕 hahaha but I think is to late 😅 🤔
I don't understand what you're saying.