Lol. That's my luck too. I'm glad you have enjoyed them so far. Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way. If you have any suggestions for future videos, let me know.
Awesome series so far! Definitely glad I subscribed. Great info in these videos. Going to be building my own 500 gallon smoker once I get my shop! Great job
hi mike just looked at your video i have a idea for you you can make a slip fit for the stack in to the collector that's how i build them so you can just slip the stack out or in of the collector its great to be able to remove the stack for storage or traveling with the smoker it makes it great for putting a cover on the the smoker also you can cut and hinge the stack so you can fold the stack down on top of the top of the smoker it makes it a lot nicer to be able to bring the smoker in the garage to do some work on it or some updates on it hope this helps you out some with you builds rich
Absolutely buddy!!! Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way. Of course, this video is the "old way." Now, I offer a laser cut collector kit. It will be on the mysticsmokers.com website in a few days. At least for the 120 and 250 tanks to start.
I use 6" sch#10. 40S is ok if you can't sourse 10S. The added weight of 40S is unnecessary. The added wall thickness does nothing beneficial. The later video on the laser cut collector kit makes building collectors kinda pointless unless you just enjoy the process. There is nothing wrong with that but the one in this video was my last for sure. You can literally tack the kit login 5 minutes vs a full day by scratch.
I'm not familiar with this kind of smokers and I figure that they stay exposed to weather all the time, do you get any water filtration through the doors or any seals?
I do not build cookers larger than 30-inch diameter anymore. That's 330g and below. The components for large systems are just to heavy for me to deal with having back and neck problems.
Absolutely. The build processes are the same. Just move the collector and add the baffle. I like setting the collector on top of the firebox with walls connecting it to the fb. That heats the collector and adds boost.
The collector helps pull the hot gasses down from tank ceiling more evenly and reduce air flow restrictions. This improves consistency in flow and makes firebox management easier. Its just an improvement in design over the Years.
Honestly, it's years of trial and error. The "calculators" are garbage and way outdated. I have found that the following works great. I'll give you a way to do quick experiments as well. 120/150 6" ID 50" long 250g 6" ID 60" long 330g 8" ID 60" Long 500g 8 ID 72" Long The stack diameter is constant for those sizes in my experience. The variable is length. I take a tank with a 6 inch stack for example and wrap a cardboard piece around the stack making s tube. You can slide up and down to extend the stack. Watch the flames and amike exit to achieve maximum airflow. You will find that getting too high is impossible, while too low is very easy. The lengths above are from my experiments.
@kurtstovall1 There's more to flow than the diameter and length of the stack. I know that sounds simplistic but it's true. If there are flow issues with the firebox or the throat from the firebox to the cook chamber, you will have significant problems trying to obtain and hold a cooking temperature. I make the throat as large as possible with a round firebox that is slightly smaller in diameter than the cook chamber. This provides maximum potential for flow on that end. Additionally, a collector makes a huge difference in flow characteristics. It's likely the most significant change in design in the last 20 years, in my opinion. If you build (or modify) your cooker to those parameters, it will run fine. The rest is a matter of learning proper firebox management for your cooker to include: Wood species selection. Not all wood provides the same BTU output. Hickory, for example, has a much higher BTU potential than pecan or some other species. This means it will cook noticeably hotter than other wood species. Split preparation to include consistent size and moisture content. The most common cooking errors or difficulties are from a poor understanding of firebox management.
@@mysticsmokers3014 Thank you so much for your insight . After reading this i dont think i have as many issues as first thought. going to work on fire mangament first.
@kurtstovall1 fantastic! Jeremy Yoder "Mad Scientist BBQ" Does a couple of good firebox management videos. He briefly describes what I call a "two split rotation" in one video. Although its a 500g in that video, the principles are the same.
i will be adding a collector and new stack to my smoker. I Iearned a lot from your video, thank you sir.
Never would have thought about the plywood shield. Very ingenious.
I wish these videos were on here about a year ago, excellent job
Lol. That's my luck too. I'm glad you have enjoyed them so far. Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way.
If you have any suggestions for future videos, let me know.
I just got a laser, its been a game changer for my builds! great vids and explanations
Awesome series so far! Definitely glad I subscribed. Great info in these videos. Going to be building my own 500 gallon smoker once I get my shop! Great job
I'm glad you like them. Do me a favor and share them with where ever you feel appropriate. The new channel needs exposure.
hi mike just looked at your video i have a idea for you you can make a slip fit for the stack in to the collector that's how i build them so you can just slip the stack out or in of the collector its great to be able to remove the stack for storage or traveling with the smoker it makes it great for putting a cover on the the smoker also you can cut and hinge the stack so you can fold the stack down on top of the top of the smoker it makes it a lot nicer to be able to bring the smoker in the garage to do some work on it or some updates on it hope this helps you out some with you builds rich
Thank you sir. Very helpful as I am building my 1st smoker. (80 gallon tank)
Absolutely buddy!!!
Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help in any way.
Of course, this video is the "old way." Now, I offer a laser cut collector kit. It will be on the mysticsmokers.com website in a few days. At least for the 120 and 250 tanks to start.
Looks great
Awesome build. What size pipe are you using? 6” schedule 40?
I use 6" sch#10.
40S is ok if you can't sourse 10S. The added weight of 40S is unnecessary. The added wall thickness does nothing beneficial.
The later video on the laser cut collector kit makes building collectors kinda pointless unless you just enjoy the process. There is nothing wrong with that but the one in this video was my last for sure.
You can literally tack the kit login 5 minutes vs a full day by scratch.
I just got an evolution 8 1/4" circular saw. But have not used it yet
I'm not familiar with this kind of smokers and I figure that they stay exposed to weather all the time, do you get any water filtration through the doors or any seals?
Does the size of the collector has to me the same size of the opening from the firebox to the chamber?
Good evening,
Do you build and sell 500 gallon smokers to the public,and what is the build time frame?
I do not build cookers larger than 30-inch diameter anymore. That's 330g and below.
The components for large systems are just to heavy for me to deal with having back and neck problems.
How do you know what size pipe to use when building your smoker?
I'm not sure which pipe you're referring to. Reach out through the mysticsmokers@gmail.com email for more details please.
doesnt the pipe have to be cut or coped out on the inside of the collector for the smoke to exit? or either lift the pipe flush with the top plate.
Yes. It gets cut to the exact size of the collector opening in the very last step.
Good question.
@@mysticsmokers3014 great videos!!
I was about to ask that question until I saw this post. Thank you!
How tall do you make the collector for a 500 gallon? Do you still stick with 6”?
Great question.
8 inch ID pipe and 8 inch collector walls.
Using the same build techniques and parameters.
I had a feeling it would be 8”. I appreciate the answer.
@Mrnot111
If you're near to metro Atlanta, I sell pipe for stacks and fireboxes.
Would this work on a reverse flow?
Absolutely. The build processes are the same. Just move the collector and add the baffle.
I like setting the collector on top of the firebox with walls connecting it to the fb. That heats the collector and adds boost.
Tell me how to expand the domain of pipes on the plane connecting points with each other
I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. Please explain.
@@mysticsmokers3014 Make pipe elbows, connecting points are arcs, connect properly
What does the collector do.
The collector helps pull the hot gasses down from tank ceiling more evenly and reduce air flow restrictions.
This improves consistency in flow and makes firebox management easier.
Its just an improvement in design over the Years.
@@mysticsmokers3014 OK thanks.
how do you calculate stack height?
Honestly, it's years of trial and error. The "calculators" are garbage and way outdated.
I have found that the following works great. I'll give you a way to do quick experiments as well.
120/150 6" ID 50" long
250g 6" ID 60" long
330g 8" ID 60" Long
500g 8 ID 72" Long
The stack diameter is constant for those sizes in my experience.
The variable is length.
I take a tank with a 6 inch stack for example and wrap a cardboard piece around the stack making s tube. You can slide up and down to extend the stack. Watch the flames and amike exit to achieve maximum airflow.
You will find that getting too high is impossible, while too low is very easy. The lengths above are from my experiments.
@@mysticsmokers3014 thanks for your help. i have a stick burner that doesnt seem to draft very well. im going to extend my stack.
@kurtstovall1
There's more to flow than the diameter and length of the stack. I know that sounds simplistic but it's true.
If there are flow issues with the firebox or the throat from the firebox to the cook chamber, you will have significant problems trying to obtain and hold a cooking temperature.
I make the throat as large as possible with a round firebox that is slightly smaller in diameter than the cook chamber. This provides maximum potential for flow on that end.
Additionally, a collector makes a huge difference in flow characteristics. It's likely the most significant change in design in the last 20 years, in my opinion.
If you build (or modify) your cooker to those parameters, it will run fine.
The rest is a matter of learning proper firebox management for your cooker to include:
Wood species selection. Not all wood provides the same BTU output. Hickory, for example, has a much higher BTU potential than pecan or some other species. This means it will cook noticeably hotter than other wood species.
Split preparation to include consistent size and moisture content.
The most common cooking errors or difficulties are from a poor understanding of firebox management.
@@mysticsmokers3014 Thank you so much for your insight . After reading this i dont think i have as many issues as first thought. going to work on fire mangament first.
@kurtstovall1 fantastic!
Jeremy Yoder "Mad Scientist BBQ" Does a couple of good firebox management videos. He briefly describes what I call a "two split rotation" in one video.
Although its a 500g in that video, the principles are the same.