Wow! In all the UA-cam videos I have watched about intake valve cleaning, I have never seen them come out as clean as these. Great idea with drilling a hole in the vacuum cleaner adapter so that shells are not flying everywhere.
Hope that works out nice for you. Make sure you have a long pick to break loose the big chunks first. If the injectors stick in the fuel rail and pull out of the cylinder head then it is recommended to replace the teflon seals. I have a video on how to perform that service as well.
Good video. Not too wordy and straight to the point. My 1.8 tsi is having high rpm misfire. 100k miles with upgraded turbo and tune. Also probably need to replace injectors as well as the walnut blasting.
This video offers good tips. I just did blasted my valves and next time i do a set will use the fine shells (grabbed the coarse without noticing). The coarse shells like to clog up and i also went through the whole 25lbs before i realized it. Probably because i had that lower valve all the way open lol
Thank you for the comment Me5Ponk. Same thing happened to me, I was using way too many shells and that's when I started playing around with the valves and finally figured out the sweet spot on my media blaster. The first couple times I completely loaded up my vacuum cleaner.
Super helpful - makes sense that intake manifolds just get all kinds of garbage in them that just needs a deep cleaning every so often. It's almost like cleaning teeth. Could you have skipped the drill zip ties and gone straight to walnut blasting and gotten the same effect? Or did it just help to use the Wurth brake cleaner to break off the biggest chunks and then let the fine grit walnut shells handle more of a finishing/polishing step? I don't have access to a liquid evacuator....
Sure, you can go straight to blasting. You will use more shells and it takes a little longer but the end results are the same either way. I combined two ways of cleaning. You can easily do this job yourself with some zip ties/carburetor cleaner and get good results plus save a bunch of money. Compressed air works great to blow out the crud. Mityvac's are pretty cheap too. www.zoro.com/mityvac-manual-fluid-evacuator-19-gal-07400/i/G1764515/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQiAu62QBhC7ARIsALXijXR0WKgvfMYKUMVoc3MbiwEg0HVrhPSF84mlQPJI-ulmKGwC89GLn9waAo6zEALw_wcB
Thanks! In my experience, domestics can easily go 100k without issues but some European models can start having problems much sooner. Once you start experiencing loss of fuel mileage or driveability problems then it's time. Diesels can also greatly benefit with this procedure.
A tip for anyone going through a misfire. Check your camshaft sensor first.. i had sandblasted my intake and still bad a problem. Found out it was the sensor. I had 70k miles on my 1.8t vw b7 so it was a matter of time for the vavles to be cleaned.. but hopefully it can save you guys time/ money if you dont do it yourself
If you want to go over the top after the service you can roll the engine over until each valve is open and use a pipe cleaner or something similar and then blow out the cylinder with compressed air. There is only a very small amount left that this service doesn't clean so I don't bother.
Thank you! Once the intake is off you can roll the engine over by hand with a socket on the crank pulley bolt until the valves are closed on the cylinder that is being cleaned.
Just to confirm, the picture at 2:33 was from scraping and using the zip-tie brush? If so, that is already a huge improvement from the picture at 0:37. It may not even be necessary to walnut blast.
Good eye. Those tiny pieces were wedged in good and wouldn't blast out with air. I don't think they would pose a problem. Still, I rotate the engine over until the valve just starts to open and that frees them up to vacuum out.
I have a cadillac cts gdi 3.6 motor have a loud idle at startup and car rides fine while driving but at idle I have a horrible cabin vibration. I already replaced the motor mounts plugs and spark plugs replaced the plugs twice last year and this year. Not sure what to do next thinking walnut blasting but, cant find a shop to do this.
No check engine light? I would get the computer scanned = check for codes, cylinder balance test, check fuel trims/oxygen sensors. A good reputable shop should be able to perform those test and diagnose your problem for under 200 dollars. Hope that helps
@@raincitywrench117 there are no codes, nothing in system car rides fine except at idle no shops in my area do this I've asked around and they dont even k ow what I'm talking about.
Vacuum got most of them out. I sprayed some brake cleaner down the long runners to douse the valves then used a long reach air nozzle to spray out. Worked great.
Hi, what's your opinion on Subaru direct injection? Are they as bad as the German ones with carbon build-up? I'm about to buy a Crosstrek with the 2.5 N/A engine. Thanks in advance!
Looks like a 3.6 VR6.. I just had my intake off to replace the PCV valve. Was looking at the intake valves and said screw it, another time...,how did you reach the valves for cylinder 1, 3, and 5?
Yep, that's exactly what it is. The nozzle is about a foot long and gets right up in there and does a nice job. Difficult to see if there are any residual shells so I spray in some carburetor cleaner and then blow out with compressed air. Works like a champ.
Does the engine have to be out of the car for this because I have the valve cover off and the valves exposed so could I walnut blast them without it hurting my motor
It can be done with the engine in or out. I don't know what you are working on but I suggest reinstalling the valve cover so no walnut shells go into the engine.
My petrol hyundai Gdi engine car has pre-ignition issues and drinks oil has covered 50.000 miles. But no performance issues?. A company called terraclean offer a walnut shell blasting service should that sort out my pre-ignition problems.
Tough one. May want to pull the spark plugs and inspect for oil buildup. 50k sounds too early to have heavy buildup on the valves but it does sound like your issue.
Probably somewhere around a thousand bucks based on $130 shop hourly rate. I looked up the times, 2.3hour for fuel rails, 3hour for cleaning and then add in injector seal kits along with intake gaskets.
I recommend this on most direct injected vehicles especially higher mileage European makes. Audi's have high flow pcv systems and are prone to carbon buildup.
It was one of the attachments that came with my wall mount craftsman vacuum. I bet you can find the exact attachment or something similar at your local hardware store. I drilled a hole in the top of it just big enough for my nozzle to fit in.
Having an issue on one a 3.6 vr6 that came from another shop where they claimed that they cant clean the cyl1, 3 and 5 correctly so i have misfires at cold start. Are they that hard to reach ? are those the holes that you have tapped on that head ?
Yep, exactly. Three of the ports are easily accessible but the other other three have long runners which split off half way down the port dividing the air into each valve. With a long nozzle like the one in the video can reach all the way inside to clean the six valves for the opposite three cylinders. If you have a scanner and are experiencing misfires on cylinders 1, 3, 5 then most likely cleaning the valves will fix it.
@@raincitywrench117 Sorry i didn't see that you answered. They were caked lol. Walnut blasted them and no more misfire counts. I was skeptical when they said they couldn't clean them cause i haven't had a car that you can't reach. Thank you
I charge intake manifold labor + 1/2 hour per cylinder. For example, a Jetta I did was 3.6hr intake labor + 2 hours clean. Sometimes I charge 1 hour additional per cylinder for difficult valve setups.
@@raincitywrench117 ...Thanks, I Bought a 2018 Honda Accord brand new last year and am just now reading about this GDI setup... ridiculous!!!.....I always use exxon gas, I know that doesn't mean much, switching over to pennzoil platinum 0w20, and installing an oil catch can this week. hopefully I wont have to do the walnut blast until sometime later.
Hello obxguy1. Direct injection has definite benefits with some drawbacks. It will have much more power and better gas mileage. A few manufactures now incorporate a dual port/direct injection setup. My boss drives a new Ford that has it. At idle and low loads, it runs off the port injectors which keep the valves clean while giving it better driveability and at medium to full loads it is direct injected which gives it the power. In my experience, it is the european vehicles that build up the large deposits because they run high flow pcv systems. BG has a GDI induction service you can get done that is non intrusive and simple to perform (like once every 25,000 miles). BG also has a GDI engine oil service kit which includes an extended engine warranty. New engines have low tension piston rings to reduce "pumping loss" thus increasing gas mileage but can increase carbon buildup so keeping the rings clean will also help out. Ultimately I bet you will love the new engine and it is tough to go wrong with a Honda!
on my 2014 ford fusion 2.0 i took off the intake manifold today 01/15/2022 to do a sound symposer delete.... removed the intake manifold.. and found very little oil in it.. took a look at the valves and just a light grey coat on them,, still see the valve shape.... i think ford did the DI engine better than the germans.. the pcv valve/plate has a couple baffles inside it to catch/drop the oil out of the system.. before it car get to the valves.. and that is an uphill climb for and vapours to get to..where the german cars take it from the valve cover. and i have seen vw's audis with lots of build up after only 50000 miles on them.. bmw's are just as bad... i did not install a catch can/ovs untill 150000 miles ( stupid me..i work as a classic Italian car tech ) should have known better.. but all my oil changes are 5/6000 miles full syn oil...i use almost no oil if any.. and my ovs after 3000 miles has about 1/4 teaspoon of oil inside it, barely cover the bottom of the ovs ( i did add some copper pot scrubber inside the can to add more area for the vapour to attach too.. just a little ) so i am happy with my car
You are correct on the crankcase breather systems. European vehicles have high flow pcv systems thus build thick deposits. I have yet to see a 2.0l Ford with a misfire due to valve carbon buildup and I see these vehicles daily with over 100k. *I work at a Ford dealer now* The 1.5, 2.0, 3.5 will have deposits with higher mileage but for the most part seem to be unaffected. Also, owners who keep up on the oil changes suffer lower valve buildup. These engines have low tension piston rings and will have more blowby with dirty oil.
Spraying parts cleaner inside the intake port and blowing out with compressed air does a good job. If a few pieces are wedged in the valve then remove the spark plug, crank engine over by hand until the valve just starts to open and then blow compressed air down through the spark plug hole and vacuum the chunks out of the port.
There are adapters to attach an air hose to the spark plug hole. That way you can pressurize the cylinder before you rotate the engine. As soon as the valve opens a tiny bit the air pressure in the cylinder will blow the walnut shells out the intake port.
I made it. Bought a short piece of brake line from the local parts store. Left the flare on one side which worked great to chuck into nozzle and cut the other side down and bent it
Our shop would charge whatever book labor calls to remove intake plus 1/2hr per cylinder. So if you have a 4 cylinder engine that requires 3hr intake removal then it would be 5hr total. If the shop labor rate is $150hr then the job would cost $750.00
@@raincitywrench117 I have a twin-turbo v8 (m278), 6.5 hrs, so the total would be $1575 which is ALOT, I want to use CRC carbon cleaner but I'm afraid a big chunk of carbon ends up falling into the engine and causing damage, the car has 140K miles and I do not know if the previous owner did any carbon cleaning
It's a narrow angle 3.6L V6 direct injected engine. The top fuel rail you see in the video feeds the 3 injectors that point into passenger cylinders that have duct tape covering them. The other fuel rail is removed to gain access to the driver side cylinders and you can still see the injectors sticking into the cylinders below the ports. It is very similar to the VW VR6 engine. Definitely a funky engine design.
@@raincitywrench117 TDI? GTI? GDI? Is this the 3.6 FSI? Turbo or no Turbo? Does this have an EGR valve? Did you check the carbon build up in the intake manifold and EGR? I have seen some people that took it out and it was clog like an old dirty pipe.
@@rhythmandacoustics 3.6 FSI Quattro VR6 non turbo. The intake manifold looked great. The deposits collect right around the valves where the cooler air and crankcase gasses meet.
I noticed that none of the vids like this that specific to cleaning the intake values of Audis never show how they opening/close the other intake valves
I remove the tape on remaining ports and then rotate crankshaft over by hand looking for multiple cylinders with closed valves and then taping off cylinders with open valves. That way multiple ports can be cleaned in succession.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you for the response. I understand that the crank has to be rotated but what does that look like? Where and how os that part of the process done?
@@antoniocole585 Sorry, wished I had filmed that process. I just use my long 1/2" ratchet with a socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate it clockwise while at the same time looking down the ports for the valves to close. Repeating same process for each cylinder.
@@raincitywrench117 and Intake removal is a Must? my car runs Good no issues but seals where leaking and were fix By Dealer but i think valves where not cleaned! i'll call tomorrow lets see what they say
form my experince on my 2014 ford fusion..2.0 engine.. the fords have much less of a problem as to the vw's bmw's audis etc..i did not put on a catch can/ovs untill 150000 miles..( i should have known better,,i work on classic Italain cars ) but ober the weekend 01/15/2022 i did a sound symposer delete and took off the intake manifold,, and was very suprised to find just a light grey coating on the back of my intake valves,, and even the tb was clean.. just a wipe of oil in the lower boost tubing after the intercooler.., but i have always use 10/30 full syn oil in my car..5 to 6000 mile oil changes..perhaps..i am just lucky thuo
Start by securing the wheels, putting in neutral, twisting the engine so that valves are 100% closed. Nah forget it details like this don't matter ....
@@raincitywrench117 That stuff seems to be more important than the rest :) No offence but getting adequate CFM at req. PSI involves a powerful compressor. Powerful compressor means 3 phases as with 1 phase compressor getting 10cfm at 120psi not quite realistic. Not everybody has a healthy 3 phase outlet. etc etc..
Wow! In all the UA-cam videos I have watched about intake valve cleaning, I have never seen them come out as clean as these. Great idea with drilling a hole in the vacuum cleaner adapter so that shells are not flying everywhere.
Thanks for watching!
Great tricks no wasted time in your videos unlike most people. Good Job!
The zip tie trick is on point. What a great idea. I'm definitely borrowing your technique when I clean my GTI valves next weekend!
Hope that works out nice for you. Make sure you have a long pick to break loose the big chunks first. If the injectors stick in the fuel rail and pull out of the cylinder head then it is recommended to replace the teflon seals. I have a video on how to perform that service as well.
@@raincitywrench117 great. Thanks! I will definitely check that video out. I plan to replace all of the seals, and already bought the replacements.
The first reasonable, well thought out approach using "at hand" equipment!
Very impressive work sir. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video! I like how clearly you explain your process,
This is a great video , neatly done
Good video. Not too wordy and straight to the point. My 1.8 tsi is having high rpm misfire. 100k miles with upgraded turbo and tune. Also probably need to replace injectors as well as the walnut blasting.
Brilliant! I'm going to use your zip tie method today. Thanks a lot!
Wow!!! Definitely invaluable video. Thank you.
Great video my man straight forward
I like the head turn with the swipe edit.
First class job 👍👍
Thats a real clean up valve ..👌👌
Damn. This was so useful. I'm doing a thorough cleaning of my 7AFE with 350k miles. Not as bad as these but still dirty. Thanks much
You are welcome. Aren't those port injection? Surprised they would be dirty at all but I guess it does have 350K
amazing job. I will subscribe for sure! Good trick
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
This video offers good tips. I just did blasted my valves and next time i do a set will use the fine shells (grabbed the coarse without noticing). The coarse shells like to clog up and i also went through the whole 25lbs before i realized it. Probably because i had that lower valve all the way open lol
Thank you for the comment Me5Ponk. Same thing happened to me, I was using way too many shells and that's when I started playing around with the valves and finally figured out the sweet spot on my media blaster. The first couple times I completely loaded up my vacuum cleaner.
Sure do like your vids. Thanks!
I appreciate that!
Awesome thanks for the information!
Greta work thanks fro isnpiration how to clean my dirty M54b
Just had my mazda3 walnut blasted, made a massive difference. Was experiencing power issues. Car drives like new now.
Nice! It makes a night and day difference for sure.
Great video and idea-
How’s the vehicle run during the test drive ? Always wondered what to do with all those extra zip ties laying around.
😮, very impressive, thank you Sir, I sub..😊
Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome. Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Just came across this video thinking about carbon cleaning my GTI and I live nearby in the Seattle area! I’d honestly let you work on my valves haha
Would love to but now work at a Ford dealer 😓
@@raincitywrench117 Come do my F150 3.5L. lol
Just saw this, thinking about my L83 intake valves. Love your ziptie idea!! How many ties approximately? About 12"??
10 ties but will vary on the drill chuck and size of zip ties.
Super helpful - makes sense that intake manifolds just get all kinds of garbage in them that just needs a deep cleaning every so often. It's almost like cleaning teeth. Could you have skipped the drill zip ties and gone straight to walnut blasting and gotten the same effect? Or did it just help to use the Wurth brake cleaner to break off the biggest chunks and then let the fine grit walnut shells handle more of a finishing/polishing step? I don't have access to a liquid evacuator....
Sure, you can go straight to blasting. You will use more shells and it takes a little longer but the end results are the same either way. I combined two ways of cleaning. You can easily do this job yourself with some zip ties/carburetor cleaner and get good results plus save a bunch of money. Compressed air works great to blow out the crud. Mityvac's are pretty cheap too. www.zoro.com/mityvac-manual-fluid-evacuator-19-gal-07400/i/G1764515/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQiAu62QBhC7ARIsALXijXR0WKgvfMYKUMVoc3MbiwEg0HVrhPSF84mlQPJI-ulmKGwC89GLn9waAo6zEALw_wcB
Thats what am taking about right there.
Very impressive 👏 How often should this be done and would it help in a direct injection diesel engine?
Thanks! In my experience, domestics can easily go 100k without issues but some European models can start having problems much sooner. Once you start experiencing loss of fuel mileage or driveability problems then it's time. Diesels can also greatly benefit with this procedure.
Great to-the-point vid. Wish more people would do them like this. How much media do you use on an average intake?
Somewhere around 2lbs. That box will probably do 10 engines or more.
neat 👌👍
Thanks!
A tip for anyone going through a misfire. Check your camshaft sensor first.. i had sandblasted my intake and still bad a problem. Found out it was the sensor. I had 70k miles on my 1.8t vw b7 so it was a matter of time for the vavles to be cleaned.. but hopefully it can save you guys time/ money if you dont do it yourself
Great tip
How does one clean the edges/rims of the valves and port openings?
If you want to go over the top after the service you can roll the engine over until each valve is open and use a pipe cleaner or something similar and then blow out the cylinder with compressed air. There is only a very small amount left that this service doesn't clean so I don't bother.
Smooth video. I’m looking to get this done on my BMW 3 series. How much would this run me?
Depending on the year, engine and labor rate in your area, I would say somewhere in the $700-1100 range.
Great video, I just have one question….how did you get the valves to be completely closed so as not to get anything in the cylinder?
Thank you! Once the intake is off you can roll the engine over by hand with a socket on the crank pulley bolt until the valves are closed on the cylinder that is being cleaned.
Just to confirm, the picture at 2:33 was from scraping and using the zip-tie brush? If so, that is already a huge improvement from the picture at 0:37. It may not even be necessary to walnut blast.
Yes, exactly. Using the zip tie method would be more than good to go without blasting.
There's some walnut left on the right valve 5:13 is that okay if a little gets left behind or did you totally clean all that out?
Good eye. Those tiny pieces were wedged in good and wouldn't blast out with air. I don't think they would pose a problem. Still, I rotate the engine over until the valve just starts to open and that frees them up to vacuum out.
I have a cadillac cts gdi 3.6 motor have a loud idle at startup and car rides fine while driving but at idle I have a horrible cabin vibration. I already replaced the motor mounts plugs and spark plugs replaced the plugs twice last year and this year. Not sure what to do next thinking walnut blasting but, cant find a shop to do this.
No check engine light? I would get the computer scanned = check for codes, cylinder balance test, check fuel trims/oxygen sensors. A good reputable shop should be able to perform those test and diagnose your problem for under 200 dollars. Hope that helps
@@raincitywrench117 there are no codes, nothing in system car rides fine except at idle no shops in my area do this I've asked around and they dont even k ow what I'm talking about.
So that’s your problem... you have a cadillac
@@shortdom107did you ever fix the idle problem? Did the valve cleaning help?
The start sounds like a pharmaceutical advert lol. "do you suffer from....." but good video with good results
Now that you mention it, it sure does! It's probably been about a year since I watched that video.
How good was your vacuum able to get the walnuts out the longer ports on the vr6 , only saw the shorter intake ports in this vid,
Vacuum got most of them out. I sprayed some brake cleaner down the long runners to douse the valves then used a long reach air nozzle to spray out. Worked great.
Hi, what's your opinion on Subaru direct injection? Are they as bad as the German ones with carbon build-up? I'm about to buy a Crosstrek with the 2.5 N/A engine. Thanks in advance!
I honestly can't say. Have yet to have the intake off on a high mileage Subaru to look at the valves. Haven't heard anything bad yet.
Looks like a 3.6 VR6.. I just had my intake off to replace the PCV valve. Was looking at the intake valves and said screw it, another time...,how did you reach the valves for cylinder 1, 3, and 5?
Yep, that's exactly what it is. The nozzle is about a foot long and gets right up in there and does a nice job. Difficult to see if there are any residual shells so I spray in some carburetor cleaner and then blow out with compressed air. Works like a champ.
Does the engine have to be out of the car for this because I have the valve cover off and the valves exposed so could I walnut blast them without it hurting my motor
It can be done with the engine in or out. I don't know what you are working on but I suggest reinstalling the valve cover so no walnut shells go into the engine.
Great video,how wide and long is the jet nozzle
About 14" of 5/16 brake line
DID you turn the engine by hand? after cleaning all the open ports, so the valves can close to clean the rest of the ports.
Yes sir.
What about the valve seat the part
that contacts the cylinder head
does carbon ever build up in that
area?
Just a little around the inside will build up but doesn't affect anything. The engine will run like a top after this service.
My petrol hyundai Gdi engine car has pre-ignition issues and drinks oil has covered 50.000 miles. But no performance issues?. A company called terraclean offer a walnut shell blasting service should that sort out my pre-ignition problems.
Tough one. May want to pull the spark plugs and inspect for oil buildup. 50k sounds too early to have heavy buildup on the valves but it does sound like your issue.
Amazing! Curious to how much this service would cost.
I don't get to see the estimates for repairs but wouldn't be surprised if this service is over $1000 dollars
What is the average cost to have this service done on a 2013 Audi A6 3 liter
Probably somewhere around a thousand bucks based on $130 shop hourly rate. I looked up the times, 2.3hour for fuel rails, 3hour for cleaning and then add in injector seal kits along with intake gaskets.
My v6 3.0 T is 150K miles and never been cleaned... looks like I’m about to have some fun
Oh Yea. I bet they have some serious buildup.
Do you prep with valve clean before media blasting or is it not needed?
Nope, not needed. You can go straight to media blasting.
Do you recommend this on petrol cars? I have audi s3 i get 100miles on half a tank
I recommend this on most direct injected vehicles especially higher mileage European makes. Audi's have high flow pcv systems and are prone to carbon buildup.
Where did you purchase the adapter for the shop vacuum? Does it have a specific name?
It was one of the attachments that came with my wall mount craftsman vacuum. I bet you can find the exact attachment or something similar at your local hardware store. I drilled a hole in the top of it just big enough for my nozzle to fit in.
Having an issue on one a 3.6 vr6 that came from another shop where they claimed that they cant clean the cyl1, 3 and 5 correctly so i have misfires at cold start. Are they that hard to reach ? are those the holes that you have tapped on that head ?
Yep, exactly. Three of the ports are easily accessible but the other other three have long runners which split off half way down the port dividing the air into each valve. With a long nozzle like the one in the video can reach all the way inside to clean the six valves for the opposite three cylinders. If you have a scanner and are experiencing misfires on cylinders 1, 3, 5 then most likely cleaning the valves will fix it.
@@raincitywrench117 Sorry i didn't see that you answered. They were caked lol. Walnut blasted them and no more misfire counts. I was skeptical when they said they couldn't clean them cause i haven't had a car that you can't reach. Thank you
Great video! Whats the charge $$$$$$ for this service usually run?
I charge intake manifold labor + 1/2 hour per cylinder. For example, a Jetta I did was 3.6hr intake labor + 2 hours clean. Sometimes I charge 1 hour additional per cylinder for difficult valve setups.
@@raincitywrench117 ...Thanks, I Bought a 2018 Honda Accord brand new last year and am just now reading about this GDI setup... ridiculous!!!.....I always use exxon gas, I know that doesn't mean much, switching over to pennzoil platinum 0w20, and installing an oil catch can this week. hopefully I wont have to do the walnut blast until sometime later.
Hello obxguy1. Direct injection has definite benefits with some drawbacks. It will have much more power and better gas mileage. A few manufactures now incorporate a dual port/direct injection setup. My boss drives a new Ford that has it. At idle and low loads, it runs off the port injectors which keep the valves clean while giving it better driveability and at medium to full loads it is direct injected which gives it the power. In my experience, it is the european vehicles that build up the large deposits because they run high flow pcv systems. BG has a GDI induction service you can get done that is non intrusive and simple to perform (like once every 25,000 miles). BG also has a GDI engine oil service kit which includes an extended engine warranty. New engines have low tension piston rings to reduce "pumping loss" thus increasing gas mileage but can increase carbon buildup so keeping the rings clean will also help out. Ultimately I bet you will love the new engine and it is tough to go wrong with a Honda!
@@raincitywrench117 Where are you located Sir?
@@Alfra1324 I'm in the northeast Seattle area
Thanks for posting this. TBH, the before, after all those miles, didn't look all that bad. I have seen way worse.
Your welcome. Most definitely, I've seen way worse also.
what is the optim granulation for valve clean ?
I prefer the 24 grit fine walnut shells that harbor freight sells.
What size air compressor did you use? What’s the minimum required size?
It was a a commercial grade Kaeser but a 20 gallon home compressor would work just fine.
Hi where are you located ? I want to do this to my 2017 Audi Q3
I'm in the north east Seattle Washington area
on my 2014 ford fusion 2.0 i took off the intake manifold today 01/15/2022 to do a sound symposer delete.... removed the intake manifold.. and found very little oil in it.. took a look at the valves and just a light grey coat on them,, still see the valve shape.... i think ford did the DI engine better than the germans.. the pcv valve/plate has a couple baffles inside it to catch/drop the oil out of the system.. before it car get to the valves.. and that is an uphill climb for and vapours to get to..where the german cars take it from the valve cover. and i have seen vw's audis with lots of build up after only 50000 miles on them.. bmw's are just as bad... i did not install a catch can/ovs untill 150000 miles ( stupid me..i work as a classic Italian car tech ) should have known better.. but all my oil changes are 5/6000 miles full syn oil...i use almost no oil if any.. and my ovs after 3000 miles has about 1/4 teaspoon of oil inside it, barely cover the bottom of the ovs ( i did add some copper pot scrubber inside the can to add more area for the vapour to attach too.. just a little ) so i am happy with my car
You are correct on the crankcase breather systems. European vehicles have high flow pcv systems thus build thick deposits. I have yet to see a 2.0l Ford with a misfire due to valve carbon buildup and I see these vehicles daily with over 100k. *I work at a Ford dealer now* The 1.5, 2.0, 3.5 will have deposits with higher mileage but for the most part seem to be unaffected. Also, owners who keep up on the oil changes suffer lower valve buildup. These engines have low tension piston rings and will have more blowby with dirty oil.
What if the walnut get stuck in the Valve? How do you remove all the walnuts?
Spraying parts cleaner inside the intake port and blowing out with compressed air does a good job. If a few pieces are wedged in the valve then remove the spark plug, crank engine over by hand until the valve just starts to open and then blow compressed air down through the spark plug hole and vacuum the chunks out of the port.
There are adapters to attach an air hose to the spark plug hole. That way you can pressurize the cylinder before you rotate the engine. As soon as the valve opens a tiny bit the air pressure in the cylinder will blow the walnut shells out the intake port.
Where did you buy that long nozzle???
I made it. Bought a short piece of brake line from the local parts store. Left the flare on one side which worked great to chuck into nozzle and cut the other side down and bent it
how much typically this would cost? just a ballpark
Our shop would charge whatever book labor calls to remove intake plus 1/2hr per cylinder. So if you have a 4 cylinder engine that requires 3hr intake removal then it would be 5hr total. If the shop labor rate is $150hr then the job would cost $750.00
@@raincitywrench117 I have a twin-turbo v8 (m278), 6.5 hrs, so the total would be $1575 which is ALOT, I want to use CRC carbon cleaner but I'm afraid a big chunk of carbon ends up falling into the engine and causing damage, the car has 140K miles and I do not know if the previous owner did any carbon cleaning
what engine is this? Why does this have port injectors?
It's a narrow angle 3.6L V6 direct injected engine. The top fuel rail you see in the video feeds the 3 injectors that point into passenger cylinders that have duct tape covering them. The other fuel rail is removed to gain access to the driver side cylinders and you can still see the injectors sticking into the cylinders below the ports. It is very similar to the VW VR6 engine. Definitely a funky engine design.
@@raincitywrench117 TDI? GTI? GDI? Is this the 3.6 FSI? Turbo or no Turbo? Does this have an EGR valve? Did you check the carbon build up in the intake manifold and EGR? I have seen some people that took it out and it was clog like an old dirty pipe.
@@rhythmandacoustics 3.6 FSI Quattro VR6 non turbo. The intake manifold looked great. The deposits collect right around the valves where the cooler air and crankcase gasses meet.
What is the “average” cost for this service.. I understand that it “depends” on the vehicle… just “average” cost, please
I bet most places are about $1000 give or take.
I noticed that none of the vids like this that specific to cleaning the intake values of Audis never show how they opening/close the other intake valves
I remove the tape on remaining ports and then rotate crankshaft over by hand looking for multiple cylinders with closed valves and then taping off cylinders with open valves. That way multiple ports can be cleaned in succession.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you for the response. I understand that the crank has to be rotated but what does that look like? Where and how os that part of the process done?
@@antoniocole585 Sorry, wished I had filmed that process. I just use my long 1/2" ratchet with a socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate it clockwise while at the same time looking down the ports for the valves to close. Repeating same process for each cylinder.
why not clean all 4 while you got it off????
I cleaned all the valves, just didn't show it in the video.
how much is this job ?
Every shop that does these will have different labor rates, probably around 1hr labor per cylinder.
@@raincitywrench117 and Intake removal is a Must? my car runs Good no issues but seals where leaking and were fix By Dealer but i think valves where not cleaned! i'll call tomorrow lets see what they say
install a oil catch tank. prolong your engine life
and if you can.. remote the oil catch can, as far away from the engine as you can.. give the oil vapour more time to drop out of the system
It's sad that this even has to happen!
Yep. Good for repair shops, not so good for vehicle owners.
Great job, as good as new! This seems a poor design, something the engineers didn't consider.
Thank you very much!
form my experince on my 2014 ford fusion..2.0 engine.. the fords have much less of a problem as to the vw's bmw's audis etc..i did not put on a catch can/ovs untill 150000 miles..( i should have known better,,i work on classic Italain cars ) but ober the weekend 01/15/2022 i did a sound symposer delete and took off the intake manifold,, and was very suprised to find just a light grey coating on the back of my intake valves,, and even the tb was clean.. just a wipe of oil in the lower boost tubing after the intercooler.., but i have always use 10/30 full syn oil in my car..5 to 6000 mile oil changes..perhaps..i am just lucky thuo
Every tried bullshit because that’s what direct injection is. I’ll stay with port injection.
My 02 yukon with port injection still runs like the day I bought it. Doesn't have as much power as direct injection but seems like a good tradeoff.
Start by securing the wheels, putting in neutral, twisting the engine so that valves are 100% closed. Nah forget it details like this don't matter ....
Well hey, that stuff goes without saying...lol
@@raincitywrench117 That stuff seems to be more important than the rest :) No offence but getting adequate CFM at req. PSI involves a powerful compressor. Powerful compressor means 3 phases as with 1 phase compressor getting 10cfm at 120psi not quite realistic. Not everybody has a healthy 3 phase outlet. etc etc..