A 3rd option is dry-ice blasting head of pistons from valve cover by removing all sparkplugs and also removing the exhaust manifold the cleaning is much better.. Finish result is looking like brand spanking new and since the ice particle melt or evaporate they do not make the mess of meteor sand blasting.. ;0) Here is a link showing the procedure with ( before & after cleaning ) : ua-cam.com/video/-loWmAvdqDw/v-deo.html
Regarding the fault on the intake runner, what did you find was the issue? How many miles on the vehicle at the time? The flaps look totally clean, did you clean them or is this a new manifold? Currently seeing P201400 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Static on my 2014 GLI with 92K, wondering if I'll find gunk'd up flaps or if my sensor / actuator has failed.
Just a hint for those doing this job: When removing the intake manifold on the MK7 gen car, you do not have to take the entire throttle body piping all the way down to where it connects to the intercooler hose off. You also do not need to take the throttle body off, the front intake cover off (top part), nor do you need to remove the fuel hose, that clips on top of the IM, off. All you need to do is take the throttle body silicone hose off, and tick the fuel line hose towards the back. A good lube spray makes it easy to take the throttle body silicone hose on and off. Carry on...
@@jsplasha lmao me too… might have to do my injectors 🥲 so I looked up carbon cleaning too and I’ve been watching him take apart shit that doesn’t need to be taken apart for 10 minutes already 🤣
@@jsplasha I used injector cleaner regularly and only shell premium gas, but it seems like my cyl 4 injector is failing… apparently the ‘19R continental injectors suck anyway so I’m gonna replace them with Bosch
Just walnut blasted my mkv GTI FSI intake valves last week... I HIGHLY recommend getting this setup for the most clean result. I did do some soak and scrap before and it took chunks off but it was still alot gunk left.. until i Walnut blasted. I Love it. and I will do also for my 2008 passat FSI and my Audi Q5 2.0T TSI.
you ever been told "it's a pretty easy job, 30 minutes tops" then come to a video like this and know damn well that man was lying straight to your face? This just happened to me
@@bigcmlg 30 minutes if you already have your manifold off maybe lol I think it takes about an hour to take my manifold off my MK5. I haven't done it but I'll take two just to be safe and not break anything when I'm doing this.
Just from the looks of the engine bay layout. I can already tell you that it ain't no 30 minute job. More like the whole day removing all those junks out of the way before getting to the target point of the project.
I generally have about 30 mins invested in a 2.0T TSI/TFSI intake manifold removal, and I don't rush. The valve cleaning is about an hour, and then another 30 to reinstall the intake manifold, etc.. 2-2.5hrs and I take my time and still shoot the shit with a buddy or whatever, during the process. @FCP Euro did a good more-than-general breakdown of what you're doing to complete the job.
First off very informative video. I did this myself when I swapped my motor on my 2015 GTI after my motor blew up with a motor that had 20k miles on it, the valves were pretty dirty surprisingly I can't remember exactly what chemical I used but I used brass brushes and extracted the debris. They came out very clean. I noticed you using a razor blade to clean the surface I disagree with that I feel that may scratch the surface too much I used brake clean on a scotch bright pad.
Felix we're glad you found the video informative. It's certainly not the simplest of jobs, so good on you for taking this one on! Its amazing how even at 20k miles a new Direct Injected engine can have that much build up already. We totally understand your point of view on the razor blade to clean up the head surface, it can be nerve wracking to use a blade on that, but Aaron having done a ton of these at the Audi dealership we trusted him on this. That being said some brake clean and a scotch brite should totally suffice to clean it up well enough for the new gasket to seal.
good video, but i just did this procedure on my '16 gti without disconnecting any coolant lines, or the low pressure fuel line to the pump, or removing the oil filter. I also did not fully remove the intake to intercooler hose, just loosened the two t-30 bolts underneath the car to make wiggling the hose off the throttle body easier. Hardest part of the whole job it getting the high pressure fuel line on and off the fuel rail below the intake. There is no room for your hands or the wrench down there.
@@TylerShaw-m4p This has been awhile now. I remember using the open end or a combination wrench to turn it, and having to flip over the wrench every 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn to get on the nut again because the space was so tight.
This is strenuous. If this job is essential for optimal performance they should make some sort of a quick disconnect valve through which you can pump in/out cleaning solution.
@Netizen's United certainly not our intent as we aren't even a shop at all, we don't work on customer cars, but purely want to help people fix their cars on their own and bonus if its with parts or tools from our website. This is meant to just be a step by step guide, its ultimately up to the person holding the wrench in their hand at the time of the job to take the approach they see best for themselves!
the Zip tie method is what Audi/VW AG recommended as the clean up tool in their TSB. Attribution where it's due, but good video nontheless! I saw this episode on Humble Mechanic and he referenced the TSB that says to use zip ties to do the scrape cleaning.
So, I recently had to replace the water pump and thermostat housing on my 2016 Sportwagen with the 1.8T and this video was extremley helpful. While I had the intake out, I decided to clean my valves. Cleaning went as expected and all went back together as it should. Only problem, now the car won't start. It cranks fine and is not throwing any codes to speak of. I feel like there is a sensor disconnected somewhere or an underlying issue with the intake runner. Any thoughts on what would cause a crank no start after doing the water pump and valve cleaning? Is there a reset I should perform? It did sit for several weeks until I had time to get it all taken apart and put back together.
crazy how well designed toyotas are. the R Engines have a similar problem with carbon buildup. if people run the wrong oil or use cheap gas it gets aplified alot. well, to get to the Intake manifold, it takes 5 minutes, you won't even need a lift or open your cooling system.
Just add MPI and done... That's my plan. I got the Euro manifold and injection setup already, just waiting for the y-fitting for the fuel line and get it installed then tuned
We are trying to convince Aaron to commit to MPI for the sake of research and science since this is his personal car :) The euro manifold is a great way to go about it, they always get all the cool stuff over there!
@Craig Pettigrew The "Detergents" in gas help remove and prevent carbon build up. Nothing will work as well as a walnut shell blasting, but the MPI should work pretty well 👍🏻. I'm jealous of your MPI, LOL. I take it you are also running a LPFP and a custom tune? GTI? Did you go is38?
Thank You Aarron and FCP Euro. Recently discovered the 034 tool and now I have seen it in action. Looks to be a nice piece! Our last de-carbon (because an Injector failed) on our MK6 GTI was Chemical Style. Slow but we got it done. Time to Tool Up. The next round will include a Water Pump change...
Glad to help GMAN! Its a great simple little tool to make the job a hell of a lot easier than without it. What prompted this getting done was a leaky waterpump, so we replaced the waterpump, new intake manifold bc the old one had so much build up, and a full valve cleaning. The waterpump DIY is coming out next week as a matter of fact. This MK7 is muuucchhhh happier after all those things were done at once.
When I removed the manifold, I found it easier to leave the throttle body in place and remove it with the manifold, as well as the bracket for the plugs.
I used a Dremel (w/ Dremel thin extension) with soft wire brush attachment bits and it worked amazingly. Had to use picks to get behind the valves where the Dremel couldn't reach. I had 155K mi. on mine with no previous carbon cleaning done that I know of (2nd owner). It was awful!
FCP Euro Haha, yeah it is-but the last 30k miles, I’ve had to change almost all the engine components to keep it running well. It’s turned me into a mechanic. But, honestly, thanks to FCPeuro-I’ve spent $2k+ and have saved so much money with quality part through you guys! 👍🏼👍🏼
@@joshuam7552 That's what we like to hear! Plus the added peace of mind now you and the car are covered for life on those parts incase* you ever have to re do any of that work ^.^
pretty sure it had carbon clean before cuz vw,audi will have the misfires check engine light between 45k to 70k range. the performance goes down along with studdering and acceleration problems.
Yes they are essentially the same exact engine in nearly every way, so in terms of this process you should be able to follow this DIY. Glad it is helpful!
Glad you enjoyed the video Miro! Just curious did you like it bc its mk7, a DIY, or about carbon cleaning? We shall see if you're right in your predictions, as long as its helping fellow enthusiasts work on their own cars, we are happy!
@@fcpeuro Little bit of everything. I dont own MK7 but that engine is installed in many VWs and some Audi vehicles. Video has enough detail for people to follow and it applies to a common problem. Here is another idea, how to properly clean sunroof drains on VW Audi. Easy and will apply to many people. And so on
@@trancemiro we really appreciate your insight, and support for the channel. Hopefully we can continue to deliver , and good idea on the VW/Audi sunroof drains!
im going to be doing this to my 14 passat 1.8t tsi very soon. 121k never been done. i can only imagine the crap in the valves. already have the stuff. i work for a local garage and im the vw guy i get all the audis and vws haha. great video!
@@Werewolfmage if you have the means to walnut blast them , that's our preferred method for getting them squeaky clean. If you don't have it you can still get a good chunk of the carbon off with good ole scraping just not as fool proof for 100% clean.
@@fcpeuro awesome! i know it needs to be done i noticed my mileage has dropped at least 5mpg in the past year. i got it with 68k miles and it was getting 40 mpg maybe 42 now its 34-37 on the highway. i definitely have the means to do it. i work on a shop with everything i need :D
Hello! What Tools do you use for 10:10 to remove the t30’s on the gasket? Have trouble finding an attachment for the t30 to fit through the little hole for the bottom row of the t30’s
Nice job Mr. Goodwrench really smooth you are a professional I have no idea what I’m doing so I’m taking it it it said $1000 I check the price is pretty close ouch
Wich is the suggested dimension ot the walnut sand? On the product linked there is 18/40... but I don't undestand the measuring system: 18/40 inch? mm?
I've replaced spark plugs, coil packs, egr... keep getting a random misfire in every cylinder could this be the fix I need? 2016 1.8 tsi jetta. Any ideas!?
Yeah well not a lot of manufacturers have them on their cars, especially with our time. I do wish VW added the MPI injection with the GTI and the R since they have it in Europe. For all I know right now, Toyota/Lexus are the only one that has both port and direct injection
Hi...Love this video..IVe Learned ALOT. Do you have anyone close to the Boston area that you know will do the job CORRECTLY?? I need this done A.S.A.P. The mechanic whos suppose to do the job cant do it till Wednesday..So I'm trapped in the house until then! My bad I have a (2011 V.W. Tiguan)
hello after I have performed this work, I have an error an error in the diagnosis P0340 00 Camshaft positioning sensor faulty I tried to reset it with the diagnosis but nothing changes and it keeps coming out every time I turn it on. the car seems to go as before except that I always have the light on
I really appreciate how you guys show us the simplest and more challenging jobs... Real nice video I wonder what the before and after looks like just using liqui moly valve cleaner through the fuel system...no mechanical cleaning. Cheers
MeanderingRios, we are glad we are able to help with both the small jobs and large ones. Its all a part of owning a European car ^.^ Really good question on the valve clean... so this Liqui Moly Valve Clean' is intended to be used as a fuel additive through the fuel system on any traditional port injected car. Because the fuel would never spray over the valves of a Direct Injected engine it wouldn't unfortunately work to help clean the carbon deposits at all. We used it in this video as a bit of a test to see if we could use it on a DI car as something to help clean the valves, and it basically liquefied the carbon, so I can only imagine how well it really works for a Port Injected car likes its intended for!
Nice tutorial! I tried the manual technique, but I have a valve that I just can't clean. So I would like to try the walnut shell method, which I found in various sizes. Which diameter should I choose? Thank you.
I have an Audi S3 2016, with 140,000km Thinking of doing this soon, but is it necessary to remove all the hose assembly from the TB. Also seen a few videos where people reinstall IM with the old gaskets, surely they need to be replaced. Great video thanks.
What gearbox does your machine have manual or dsg?.. Looking for a clutch change tutorial... I have a Dq200 dsg polo gti 1.4l twin charged... Any ideas where I can get new clutches and relevant tools to execute job?
This one is a manual but we also have a dsg project car as well. We will likely do a clutch install video once we can get back into the shop. We sell everything you need to do the job at www.fcpeuro.com , just add your car to the garage and browse from there!
You got that right, I just commented along the same line. VW, hell all newer cars/trucks are like this you really really have to WANT to do DIY. One thing is for sure I'd never take it to a dealer to do a job like this. Part of me thinks these repairs were purposely made to difficult for DIY'ers.
Thanks guys for sharing your knowledge. In the old days we used to spray carb cleaner into the air intake to clean it and the intake manifold. Would it work to clean carbon build up on intake valves?
Hi Nidal Dajani - we haven't seen many effective methods other that what was mentioned in this video. I can't imagine spraying carb cleaner would work to effectively clean the valves.
My question is why let your direct injected motor which is designed to not spread fuel on the top of the valves causing carbon build up over time. After every oil change spray injection valve cleaner into the intake according to the instructions,might help to clean the top of the valves without tearing half the motor apart for walnut cleaning, just a thought!
There all these video's out on cleaning the valves on VW's but nothing on any other cars.. ???? Nissan uses DI motor's so does just about every over car company.. I need my valves cleaned on my Nissan Juke and I am not tearing the car apart.. SO How do I get them clean????
So if you are cleaning the valves while they are closed, then the actual sealing faces of the valves and seats are obviously not being cleaned, meaning that isn't important? So we are just removing gunk from the valves for what purpose? A 7 hp gain due to airflow restriction? If valves NEED to be cleaned, then the whole valve and seat needs to be cleaned for proper mating and sealing. If that doesn't need to be done then the valve doesn't need to be cleaned. What am I missing?
I believe you are correct I think the best way is to do the same as the video. Then, when you run the car, spray valve cleaner through throttle body to remove the rest of carbon
Carbon does not deposit on the sealing surfaces. I've seen valves removed from heads with massive carbon deposits on top of the valves and the seats are perfectly clean. The reason for doing this is because the valves only open a few centimeters and deposits on top of the valves does impede flow leading to misfires, poor performance, and poor fuel economy.
@michaelblodgett4704 Airflow restriction does not affect fuel economy, fuel is metered according to how much air enters the engine via MAP and/or MAF, TPS sensors and more, and the system is double checked by oxygen sensor feedback and adjusted via fuel trims. If less air enters the engine due a restriction, less fuel is added so that the air fuel ratio is always correct. For the same reason, air flow restriction also does not cause misfire. If you have had engines apart before as you stated, you would know how fuel injection calculations are made so its odd that you dont. Carbon deposit misfires are urban legend. There are millions of GDI cars of multiple brands on the road right now driven by regular non-car people that have no idea what "carbon deposit" means and subsequently have never had a cleaning done and those cars still run great with 200,000, even 300,000+ miles with no carbon cleaning.
@michaelblodgett4704 Funny how dudes always say this when they can't argue lol. If I was wrong, you could explain how. But you cant explain anything cuz you don't know what the fuck you're talking about lol. You don't even know how fuel trims or fuel metering work.
the mpi ones also suffer with carbon build up, probably not as severe, my cupra 280 has a rough idle and it has mpi injectors. i either believe its carbon build up or faulty mpi injectors as its only rough on idle and is showing intake manifold misfires.
Hi Bo, We only had to remove the one coolant line in front of the throttle body, so instead of draining all the coolant, we opened up the cap to release pressure.
@@AshP274 That makes sense but still a lot easier to remove the complete intake manifold with throttlebody and then swap everything after it has been removed. But each to their own. Stil a great video.
The thing is the carbon build up in the valve seat. How to clean that part where you can loose compression cause the valve is not sitting properly cause there is carbon in the middle. Like a burned valve.
Usually in the $250-$400 range Jonnnnnny . They inevitably will have to be cleaned , but staying up on all your other preventative maintenance will help prolong it a bit.
you went over closing the valves too fast. which direction do you push or pull? i heard its clock wise but i'm having a hard time getting any movement.
Hey Mohammed we do offer the walnut blasting adapter for the N54/N55. I'm sure we could make a DIY for it in the future! www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-n54-vacuum-blaster-adapter-genuine-bmw-81292208037?ads_cmpid=1586640911&ads_adid=59893888775&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298302526031&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&ttv=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAuK3vBRBOEiwA1IMhujsC3fbmwQ5qkNHq_4N8kN-RgozIQE4bcSWYcclAMXT0WUxDexwkaRoCbnwQAvD_BwE
Yeah that was a fiddly job for sure, nice work. Is it always needed to fully disassembly this much to clean it, I think there was some kind of spray that was used also ? How often is this needed ? Is it the egr or the crankcase ventilation that is causing this build up ?
Thanks, Sibbie! If the car hasn't had any cleaning for at least 50k miles, this sort of cleaning would be the most effective, there are other methods such as spray cleaning but they are not as effective as a walnut blasting. You can take measures such as installing an oil catch can to reduce this buildup.
Riley no need to really walnut blast that engine, you would only have carbon buildup when the valve stem seals fail and start coking the back of the valves in the intake port. Unfortunately though, valve steam seal failure is actually common post 100k on those motors. We actually have a bunch of content on the blog/3d as well as some videos in the works specifically on the m113 (we have one completely un-assembled in our shop right now) so stay tuned for more info!
Quick question trying to figure out the best stuff to use to clean the manifold I’ve seen Dg carbon cleaning and walnut blaster dealerships price is pretty pricey but if it’s worth it why not. Does walnut blaster clean it better then liquid ? I have a 2015 passat 1.8 tsi with 105,000 miles and hasn’t had a carbon cleaning yet.
Noting wrong at all with this method. I used it when building my 550bhp built turbo R32 for my head gasket process 6 years ago. Still running like a champ daily😉.
@@jsplasha Acrylic lacquer thinners as was commonly used for ratio thinning of the factory automotive finishes used predominantly during the latter period of the 60's and through the 70's was highly volatile hydrocarbons, probably more so than high octane gasoline/petrol of the time. Acetone was not the main component of it but was often listed as one of the ingredients as I recall. On an old carburetor based engine you can could start a stubborn engine with it by filling the float chamber. It was often more effective than ether based aerosol can sprays. If you've seen a filthy carburetor blackened over the years from various backfires through the induction system lacquer thinners would instantly dissolve the deposits away especially with a paint brush. It was a favorite medium to start accident damaged cars that sat around in repair shops for months on end. That or Kerosene was also the perfect medium to store a carburetor in, say inside an old coffee tin for years and keep it fresh without oxidization of the alloys and the general crustiness that forms in carbies particularly in the float chamber when sitting unused for years. I never found acrylic lacquer thinners particularly detrimental to plastic, but I suppose it depends on the type of plastic. A lot of modern engines have plastic insert dividers in the ports and they're not only hard to remove and replace, they're also in the way to a blast medium. I have more than once had a cylinder head tipped on it's side on the bench and filled the ports with lacquer thinners to dissolve all the crud. As long as the valve seats seal correctly it is the easiest way of cleaning the ports and back of valves and the only expenditure is patience in waiting for it to do it's job. Todays engines have recreated a problem that was once easily dealt with, and a whole new industry and labor charges have been created from motor car companies knowingly creating a problem down the track by design. Seafoam is not sold in my country and though I'm aware of it and it's use, I'm also aware of the conflicting reports of it's effectiveness.
Vw in Germany (for German cars added Port Injection (like Toyota has done for their cars) ain't that a bitch move. NA cars didn't get it shows how much VW cares for it's NA customers.
Ian Marshall Ethanol won’t build up carbon deposits. Vegetable fuel. Instead, It clears everything out. I challenge you to show me someone driving any car on E98 or even E85 in North America or E100 (like they offer in Brazil for example) from day 1 that will show carbon build up like that. On ehtanol running engines you will never see the valves or piston heads like that it’s a matter fact it actually looks new once you take everything apart. The explanation is simple . The fuel properties are very different ethanol will also get rid of most of the carbon build up in the engine by itself by just switching from gas to ethanol . There were/are very old books that date to as far as the 1930’s showing all that, with a farmer that converted most equipment in his farm to run on pure ethanol, so that’s very old stuff. The de-carbonizing process starts as soon as 15-30 minutes after the engine is running 100% Ethanol and most of it starts getting flushed out through the exhaust of the engine. Please don’t ask me the name of the books because I don’t know, my friend had it a while back.
At 80k miles on a 2010 Tiguan, I'm going thru this right now. I was waiting for a problem with the turbo, imagine my surprise when I got informed carbon build up. Damn pandemic lock down, I need a high way to run out on!
In case you aren't interested on how to remove the manifold, and prep the GTI to be cleaned, the Carbon Cleaning Portion itself Starts at 14:58 !
thank you!
I was getting tired watching you remove all the fancy plastic 🙄
Job well done 👍🏻., where did you get the square blue flashlight on the video , is it possible you can send me a link ., thank you
A 3rd option is dry-ice blasting head of pistons from valve cover by removing all sparkplugs and also removing the exhaust manifold the cleaning is much better..
Finish result is looking like brand spanking new and since the ice particle melt or evaporate they do not make the mess of meteor sand blasting.. ;0)
Here is a link showing the procedure with ( before & after cleaning ) : ua-cam.com/video/-loWmAvdqDw/v-deo.html
Sir is it a good idea to spray crc or throttle cleaner through intake of bmw e60 m5 ,to clean carbon from valves
Regarding the fault on the intake runner, what did you find was the issue? How many miles on the vehicle at the time? The flaps look totally clean, did you clean them or is this a new manifold? Currently seeing P201400 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Static on my 2014 GLI with 92K, wondering if I'll find gunk'd up flaps or if my sensor / actuator has failed.
Just a hint for those doing this job:
When removing the intake manifold on the MK7 gen car, you do not have to take the entire throttle body piping all the way down to where it connects to the intercooler hose off. You also do not need to take the throttle body off, the front intake cover off (top part), nor do you need to remove the fuel hose, that clips on top of the IM, off. All you need to do is take the throttle body silicone hose off, and tick the fuel line hose towards the back. A good lube spray makes it easy to take the throttle body silicone hose on and off.
Carry on...
Thank you. Are these tricks also applicable for the MK6?
The entire time I'm watching the first 15min I'm like wtf is he doing this for
Does this apply to a VW EOS with a 2.0TSI?
@@jsplasha lmao me too… might have to do my injectors 🥲 so I looked up carbon cleaning too and I’ve been watching him take apart shit that doesn’t need to be taken apart for 10 minutes already 🤣
@@jsplasha I used injector cleaner regularly and only shell premium gas, but it seems like my cyl 4 injector is failing… apparently the ‘19R continental injectors suck anyway so I’m gonna replace them with Bosch
Just walnut blasted my mkv GTI FSI intake valves last week... I HIGHLY recommend getting this setup for the most clean result. I did do some soak and scrap before and it took chunks off but it was still alot gunk left.. until i Walnut blasted. I Love it. and I will do also for my 2008 passat FSI and my Audi Q5 2.0T TSI.
TDC is evident when you see the piston dwell. Dwell is when the reciprocating motion of the piston is stationary while the crank rotates.
you ever been told "it's a pretty easy job, 30 minutes tops" then come to a video like this and know damn well that man was lying straight to your face? This just happened to me
Same how did it go for you? 😅
I mean this looks like an 8 hour job just based off what he’s saying lol
@@bigcmlg 30 minutes if you already have your manifold off maybe lol
I think it takes about an hour to take my manifold off my MK5. I haven't done it but I'll take two just to be safe and not break anything when I'm doing this.
Just from the looks of the engine bay layout. I can already tell you that it ain't no 30 minute job. More like the whole day removing all those junks out of the way before getting to the target point of the project.
I generally have about 30 mins invested in a 2.0T TSI/TFSI intake manifold removal, and I don't rush. The valve cleaning is about an hour, and then another 30 to reinstall the intake manifold, etc..
2-2.5hrs and I take my time and still shoot the shit with a buddy or whatever, during the process.
@FCP Euro did a good more-than-general breakdown of what you're doing to complete the job.
When you were using the blaster, around what PSI was it operating at? What would be a good CFM for an air compressor supplying air to the blaster?
Thanks for the video.. probably one of the best informative how-to vids. I’ve seen in awhile.
First off very informative video. I did this myself when I swapped my motor on my 2015 GTI after my motor blew up with a motor that had 20k miles on it, the valves were pretty dirty surprisingly I can't remember exactly what chemical I used but I used brass brushes and extracted the debris. They came out very clean. I noticed you using a razor blade to clean the surface I disagree with that I feel that may scratch the surface too much I used brake clean on a scotch bright pad.
Felix we're glad you found the video informative. It's certainly not the simplest of jobs, so good on you for taking this one on! Its amazing how even at 20k miles a new Direct Injected engine can have that much build up already. We totally understand your point of view on the razor blade to clean up the head surface, it can be nerve wracking to use a blade on that, but Aaron having done a ton of these at the Audi dealership we trusted him on this. That being said some brake clean and a scotch brite should totally suffice to clean it up well enough for the new gasket to seal.
Why did your motor blow at 20k miles?
@@rambow70 The replacement motor had 20k miles on it not the motor that blew.
good video, but i just did this procedure on my '16 gti without disconnecting any coolant lines, or the low pressure fuel line to the pump, or removing the oil filter. I also did not fully remove the intake to intercooler hose, just loosened the two t-30 bolts underneath the car to make wiggling the hose off the throttle body easier. Hardest part of the whole job it getting the high pressure fuel line on and off the fuel rail below the intake. There is no room for your hands or the wrench down there.
Do you remember how you got it off eventually?
@@TylerShaw-m4p This has been awhile now. I remember using the open end or a combination wrench to turn it, and having to flip over the wrench every 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn to get on the nut again because the space was so tight.
The more I got into the video, the more difficult it got. lol awesome video
This is strenuous. If this job is essential for optimal performance they should make some sort of a quick disconnect valve through which you can pump in/out cleaning solution.
I’m thinking this is by the book.. I saw the humble mechanic video and he didn’t take as many stuff apart
Correct Mark this is by the book, and the way we think is most straightforward! Whats the time old saying "There's a million way to clean valve"
@Netizen's United certainly not our intent as we aren't even a shop at all, we don't work on customer cars, but purely want to help people fix their cars on their own and bonus if its with parts or tools from our website. This is meant to just be a step by step guide, its ultimately up to the person holding the wrench in their hand at the time of the job to take the approach they see best for themselves!
the Zip tie method is what Audi/VW AG recommended as the clean up tool in their TSB. Attribution where it's due, but good video nontheless! I saw this episode on Humble Mechanic and he referenced the TSB that says to use zip ties to do the scrape cleaning.
Yeah Aaron took this tip/method with him from his days as an Audi tech 👍Its in the book!
So, I recently had to replace the water pump and thermostat housing on my 2016 Sportwagen with the 1.8T and this video was extremley helpful. While I had the intake out, I decided to clean my valves. Cleaning went as expected and all went back together as it should. Only problem, now the car won't start. It cranks fine and is not throwing any codes to speak of. I feel like there is a sensor disconnected somewhere or an underlying issue with the intake runner. Any thoughts on what would cause a crank no start after doing the water pump and valve cleaning? Is there a reset I should perform? It did sit for several weeks until I had time to get it all taken apart and put back together.
crazy how well designed toyotas are.
the R Engines have a similar problem with carbon buildup. if people run the wrong oil or use cheap gas it gets aplified alot.
well, to get to the Intake manifold, it takes 5 minutes, you won't even need a lift or open your cooling system.
Just add MPI and done... That's my plan. I got the Euro manifold and injection setup already, just waiting for the y-fitting for the fuel line and get it installed then tuned
We are trying to convince Aaron to commit to MPI for the sake of research and science since this is his personal car :) The euro manifold is a great way to go about it, they always get all the cool stuff over there!
Same here, got the CTS kit....one way to keep valves clean and a wide grin!
Thanks for this info brother, was dreading doing this on my GTI when i buy it soon. This will def help the car last much longer and run reliably.
Craig Pettigrew both. 👍🏻
@Craig Pettigrew The "Detergents" in gas help remove and prevent carbon build up. Nothing will work as well as a walnut shell blasting, but the MPI should work pretty well 👍🏻. I'm jealous of your MPI, LOL. I take it you are also running a LPFP and a custom tune? GTI? Did you go is38?
Unbeliavable amount of work!!!
Congratulations for this wonderful work!!!
Thank you, Francisco!
@@fcpeuro About how much would my VW dealer charge for this?
@@gordon4385 1400
Thank You Aarron and FCP Euro. Recently discovered the 034 tool and now I have seen it in action. Looks to be a nice piece! Our last de-carbon (because an Injector failed) on our MK6 GTI was Chemical Style. Slow but we got it done. Time to Tool Up. The next round will include a Water Pump change...
Glad to help GMAN! Its a great simple little tool to make the job a hell of a lot easier than without it. What prompted this getting done was a leaky waterpump, so we replaced the waterpump, new intake manifold bc the old one had so much build up, and a full valve cleaning. The waterpump DIY is coming out next week as a matter of fact. This MK7 is muuucchhhh happier after all those things were done at once.
Purple power works really well for the intake dividers.
When I removed the manifold, I found it easier to leave the throttle body in place and remove it with the manifold, as well as the bracket for the plugs.
I used a Dremel (w/ Dremel thin extension) with soft wire brush attachment bits and it worked amazingly. Had to use picks to get behind the valves where the Dremel couldn't reach. I had 155K mi. on mine with no previous carbon cleaning done that I know of (2nd owner). It was awful!
Wow 155k is crazy high with never being cleaned, thats awesome your car was running well enough to make it that long!
FCP Euro Haha, yeah it is-but the last 30k miles, I’ve had to change almost all the engine components to keep it running well. It’s turned me into a mechanic. But, honestly, thanks to FCPeuro-I’ve spent $2k+ and have saved so much money with quality part through you guys! 👍🏼👍🏼
@@joshuam7552 That's what we like to hear! Plus the added peace of mind now you and the car are covered for life on those parts incase* you ever have to re do any of that work ^.^
@@jsplasha You have to be a very detail oriented person with a steady hand, like myself. I’m now at 200k miles, with no issues.
pretty sure it had carbon clean before cuz vw,audi will have the misfires check engine light between 45k to 70k range. the performance goes down along with studdering and acceleration problems.
could you please tell me how wide is the tube on the inside🖐
Great video! I would like to do this on my gen 3 1.8T TSI . I never see any videos on this, just the 2.0T. I'm sure it's similar.
Yes they are essentially the same exact engine in nearly every way, so in terms of this process you should be able to follow this DIY. Glad it is helpful!
THIS, is the content I like. Ill predict this will be the most viewed video on your channel.
Glad you enjoyed the video Miro! Just curious did you like it bc its mk7, a DIY, or about carbon cleaning? We shall see if you're right in your predictions, as long as its helping fellow enthusiasts work on their own cars, we are happy!
@@fcpeuro Little bit of everything. I dont own MK7 but that engine is installed in many VWs and some Audi vehicles. Video has enough detail for people to follow and it applies to a common problem. Here is another idea, how to properly clean sunroof drains on VW Audi. Easy and will apply to many people. And so on
@@trancemiro we really appreciate your insight, and support for the channel. Hopefully we can continue to deliver , and good idea on the VW/Audi sunroof drains!
@@fcpeuro Vouch for that sunroof video, would be amazing.
I wish you guys were close to me. Got quoted $2k for walnut blasting here in Melbourne, Australia.
im going to be doing this to my 14 passat 1.8t tsi very soon. 121k never been done. i can only imagine the crap in the valves. already have the stuff. i work for a local garage and im the vw guy i get all the audis and vws haha. great video!
Glad you like the video, Pete! Those valves are going to be pretty crusty at 121k!!
@@fcpeuro what would you guys recommend? blasting them or using carb cleaner and a brush?
@@Werewolfmage if you have the means to walnut blast them , that's our preferred method for getting them squeaky clean. If you don't have it you can still get a good chunk of the carbon off with good ole scraping just not as fool proof for 100% clean.
@@fcpeuro awesome! i know it needs to be done i noticed my mileage has dropped at least 5mpg in the past year. i got it with 68k miles and it was getting 40 mpg maybe 42 now its 34-37 on the highway. i definitely have the means to do it. i work on a shop with everything i need :D
If you don't have a cta tool, what can you use?
Hello! What Tools do you use for 10:10 to remove the t30’s on the gasket? Have trouble finding an attachment for the t30 to fit through the little hole for the bottom row of the t30’s
Nice job Mr. Goodwrench really smooth you are a professional I have no idea what I’m doing so I’m taking it it it said $1000 I check the price is pretty close ouch
Installing a catch can that you empty out every oil change helps mitigate carbon build up monumentally.
oh absolutely! but this porcedure will still come in handy
It looks like this car has no windshield fluid reservoir. How do you get the socket on the crankshaft without removing the lower fluid reservoir?
Wich is the suggested dimension ot the walnut sand?
On the product linked there is 18/40... but I don't undestand the measuring system: 18/40 inch? mm?
Best video I’ve seen on valve cleaning,good job
Thanks, Dai!
Iv got a 2013 1.4 tsi misfire on cy2 do you think this maybe the problem
I've replaced spark plugs, coil packs, egr... keep getting a random misfire in every cylinder could this be the fix I need? 2016 1.8 tsi jetta. Any ideas!?
Will the brake cleaner or LQM damage the valve seals? Has anyone had issues using this method?
1.) Don't buy direct injection
2.) Buy dual injection
Yeah well not a lot of manufacturers have them on their cars, especially with our time. I do wish VW added the MPI injection with the GTI and the R since they have it in Europe. For all I know right now, Toyota/Lexus are the only one that has both port and direct injection
@@MarkCalica Oh yeah. D4S is a great solution and VW just seems to have ill intentions not giving us their system.
Only if North America was as lucky as EU and could have received the dual injected version! That would have been the best solution.
@@MarkCalica Ford does it on all their truck EcoBoost engines now, 2.7 and 3.5L but the 4 cyls still don't.
Justin LaNoue The Mustang Coyote Gen 3 has Dual Injection too.
Hi...Love this video..IVe Learned ALOT. Do you have anyone close to the Boston area that you know will do the job CORRECTLY?? I need this done A.S.A.P. The mechanic whos suppose to do the job cant do it till Wednesday..So I'm trapped in the house until then! My bad I have a (2011 V.W. Tiguan)
How does one clean the edges/rims of the valves and port openings?
hello after I have performed this work, I have an error an error in the diagnosis P0340 00 Camshaft positioning sensor faulty I tried to reset it with the diagnosis but nothing changes and it keeps coming out every time I turn it on. the car seems to go as before except that I always have the light on
I really appreciate how you guys show us the simplest and more challenging jobs... Real nice video I wonder what the before and after looks like just using liqui moly valve cleaner through the fuel system...no mechanical cleaning.
Cheers
MeanderingRios, we are glad we are able to help with both the small jobs and large ones. Its all a part of owning a European car ^.^ Really good question on the valve clean... so this Liqui Moly Valve Clean' is intended to be used as a fuel additive through the fuel system on any traditional port injected car. Because the fuel would never spray over the valves of a Direct Injected engine it wouldn't unfortunately work to help clean the carbon deposits at all. We used it in this video as a bit of a test to see if we could use it on a DI car as something to help clean the valves, and it basically liquefied the carbon, so I can only imagine how well it really works for a Port Injected car likes its intended for!
How many days taken to complete this task?
Can you please tell me where you turn over the crank to make sure the engine valve is closed? my car is a 2011 Tiguan.
Hi Don, that is usually done via the crank pulley.
Nice tutorial! I tried the manual technique, but I have a valve that I just can't clean. So I would like to try the walnut shell method, which I found in various sizes. Which diameter should I choose? Thank you.
How much would this job cost?
Really good guide, thank you for taking the time to make it.
You're welcome, Alex! Happy to help!
Quick question. When you say you are "turning over the crank to get to TDC" what exactly are you turning? What pulley or wheel?
Hi, that turning is being done at the crankshaft.
I have an Audi S3 2016, with 140,000km
Thinking of doing this soon, but is it necessary to remove all the hose assembly from the TB. Also seen a few videos where people reinstall IM with the old gaskets, surely they need to be replaced. Great video thanks.
I did mine without replacing the gasket. So far so good.
Do you have to remove the pipes or can you just disconnect the pipe from the throttle body and leave it hanging?
What gearbox does your machine have manual or dsg?.. Looking for a clutch change tutorial... I have a Dq200 dsg polo gti 1.4l twin charged... Any ideas where I can get new clutches and relevant tools to execute job?
This one is a manual but we also have a dsg project car as well. We will likely do a clutch install video once we can get back into the shop. We sell everything you need to do the job at www.fcpeuro.com , just add your car to the garage and browse from there!
@@fcpeuro thanks very much, will check it out and take a browse....will follow your channel for the video to come.
Remember the mk1 gti simpler days
You got that right, I just commented along the same line. VW, hell all newer cars/trucks are like this you really really have to WANT to do DIY. One thing is for sure I'd never take it to a dealer to do a job like this. Part of me thinks these repairs were purposely made to difficult for DIY'ers.
Thanks guys for sharing your knowledge. In the old days we used to spray carb cleaner into the air intake to clean it and the intake manifold. Would it work to clean carbon build up on intake valves?
Hi Nidal Dajani - we haven't seen many effective methods other that what was mentioned in this video. I can't imagine spraying carb cleaner would work to effectively clean the valves.
@@fcpeuro i guess you'd have to spray it continuously to simulate manifold fuel injection over prolonged time to clean the valves. Thanks guys.
My question is why let your direct injected motor which is designed to not spread fuel on the top of the valves causing carbon build up over time. After every oil change spray injection valve cleaner into the intake according to the instructions,might help to clean the top of the valves without tearing half the motor apart for walnut cleaning, just a thought!
It doesn't work. I've seen before and after photos.
What is he spraying in on the hoses to make the clamps slide easier?
Hi Kent, you can use either brake cleaner as a temporary lubricant or a lite sprits of silicone spray.
No oil change afterwards??
How do we dry crank the engine?. 37:03
He's just turning the key as if he's starting the car, but with the sparkplugs still removed. The starter motor cranks the engine.
There all these video's out on cleaning the valves on VW's but nothing on any other cars.. ???? Nissan uses DI motor's so does just about every over car company.. I need my valves cleaned on my Nissan Juke and I am not tearing the car apart.. SO How do I get them clean????
Who wants a vehicle with an engine like this? I'll pass, got a 19 rav4 with port and DGI. 😁
Is that a Gen 3? I didn’t know even with the additional injector the carbon is still that bad?
So if you are cleaning the valves while they are closed, then the actual sealing faces of the valves and seats are obviously not being cleaned, meaning that isn't important? So we are just removing gunk from the valves for what purpose? A 7 hp gain due to airflow restriction? If valves NEED to be cleaned, then the whole valve and seat needs to be cleaned for proper mating and sealing. If that doesn't need to be done then the valve doesn't need to be cleaned. What am I missing?
I believe you are correct
I think the best way is to do the same as the video. Then, when you run the car, spray valve cleaner through throttle body to remove the rest of carbon
Carbon does not deposit on the sealing surfaces. I've seen valves removed from heads with massive carbon deposits on top of the valves and the seats are perfectly clean. The reason for doing this is because the valves only open a few centimeters and deposits on top of the valves does impede flow leading to misfires, poor performance, and poor fuel economy.
@michaelblodgett4704 Airflow restriction does not affect fuel economy, fuel is metered according to how much air enters the engine via MAP and/or MAF, TPS sensors and more, and the system is double checked by oxygen sensor feedback and adjusted via fuel trims. If less air enters the engine due a restriction, less fuel is added so that the air fuel ratio is always correct. For the same reason, air flow restriction also does not cause misfire. If you have had engines apart before as you stated, you would know how fuel injection calculations are made so its odd that you dont. Carbon deposit misfires are urban legend. There are millions of GDI cars of multiple brands on the road right now driven by regular non-car people that have no idea what "carbon deposit" means and subsequently have never had a cleaning done and those cars still run great with 200,000, even 300,000+ miles with no carbon cleaning.
@@Carguylogan I'm not going to read that essay, but you're wrong. I just skimmed over it.
@michaelblodgett4704 Funny how dudes always say this when they can't argue lol. If I was wrong, you could explain how. But you cant explain anything cuz you don't know what the fuck you're talking about lol. You don't even know how fuel trims or fuel metering work.
what grit walnut shell did you use?
what is the optim granulation for valve clean ?
the mpi ones also suffer with carbon build up, probably not as severe, my cupra 280 has a rough idle and it has mpi injectors. i either believe its carbon build up or faulty mpi injectors as its only rough on idle and is showing intake manifold misfires.
Nice trick with the zip ties. I wonder what else I can use in the same manner.
can i use the intake valve cleaner on my w211? i plan to replace the manifold and wanted to clean the valves as well
Why didn’t you drain the coolant before removing the coolant lines on the motor? Just curious.
Hi Bo, We only had to remove the one coolant line in front of the throttle body, so instead of draining all the coolant, we opened up the cap to release pressure.
I would like to know why you removed the throttlebody as I do these on a regular basis and not ever had to remove the throttlebody
Ruaan Bateman he replaced the intake manifold with a new one, and transferred everything else from the old to the new
@@AshP274 That makes sense but still a lot easier to remove the complete intake manifold with throttlebody and then swap everything after it has been removed. But each to their own. Stil a great video.
Was there a difference afterwards? In what way?
My god the amount of work needed to get there!!!
I own an MK6 R 2011 DSG, is mine easier?
Hi bro. Can you expand on the tie wraps methods?
Dang!
Is it that involved to do on a 2009 Audi TTs?
The process will be generally the same for that engine!
Does the vehicle have to be with key on engine off and in neutral the manually crank the engine to close valves?
as long as you are in neutral you are good.
You know he meant business when he had audi and vw logo as tattoos.
Aaron definitely means business when it comes to VW's and Audi's.
The thing is the carbon build up in the valve seat. How to clean that part where you can loose compression cause the valve is not sitting properly cause there is carbon in the middle. Like a burned valve.
How much would this cost at a shop? Makes me think about selling before I have carbon issues...
Usually in the $250-$400 range Jonnnnnny . They inevitably will have to be cleaned , but staying up on all your other preventative maintenance will help prolong it a bit.
Is there a video of cleaning the carbon of the shrink cans?
you went over closing the valves too fast. which direction do you push or pull? i heard its clock wise but i'm having a hard time getting any movement.
Hi Golfmaniac, clockwise is the way you want to go. A good rule of thumb is to rotate any engine in the way that it spins when running.
Can you guys please make a kit and a video for the BMW N54/N55
Hey Mohammed we do offer the walnut blasting adapter for the N54/N55. I'm sure we could make a DIY for it in the future! www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-n54-vacuum-blaster-adapter-genuine-bmw-81292208037?ads_cmpid=1586640911&ads_adid=59893888775&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298302526031&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&ttv=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAuK3vBRBOEiwA1IMhujsC3fbmwQ5qkNHq_4N8kN-RgozIQE4bcSWYcclAMXT0WUxDexwkaRoCbnwQAvD_BwE
Great video👍🏽 I know it's a 2016 I was wondering how many times have you done this to this car and at what mileage? Again great vid!
Yeah that was a fiddly job for sure, nice work.
Is it always needed to fully disassembly this much to clean it, I think there was some kind of spray that was used also ?
How often is this needed ?
Is it the egr or the crankcase ventilation that is causing this build up ?
Thanks, Sibbie! If the car hasn't had any cleaning for at least 50k miles, this sort of cleaning would be the most effective, there are other methods such as spray cleaning but they are not as effective as a walnut blasting. You can take measures such as installing an oil catch can to reduce this buildup.
I had a quick question about the air compressor specs I should be worrying about, what horsepower and what gallon air compressor did you use?
Hi Baked Leafs; we have a large commercial compressor in-house that is used for operations within the warehouse.
Thank you very much, I also was wondering how you guys connected the wand listed in the comment section to the abrasive blaster
So we should do this procedure how often? I have to ask.. Is Direct Inject worth this hassle?
Service interval depends on the type of motor your vehicle has. A typical suggested interval for carbon cleaning is around every 60,000 miles.
Do you recommend blasting the valves on a Mercedes m113 NA V8 with 100k+ miles?
Riley no need to really walnut blast that engine, you would only have carbon buildup when the valve stem seals fail and start coking the back of the valves in the intake port. Unfortunately though, valve steam seal failure is actually common post 100k on those motors. We actually have a bunch of content on the blog/3d as well as some videos in the works specifically on the m113 (we have one completely un-assembled in our shop right now) so stay tuned for more info!
FCP Euro hey thanks for the reply! That’s awesome, I’ll check some out. About to buy some more parts from you guys for my C55 🤟
Amazing skills to do a job, very technical explanation and for me, the best way to do this kind of work, thanks and good luck
Glad you enjoyed it!
Quick question trying to figure out the best stuff to use to clean the manifold I’ve seen Dg carbon cleaning and walnut blaster dealerships price is pretty pricey but if it’s worth it why not. Does walnut blaster clean it better then liquid ? I have a 2015 passat 1.8 tsi with 105,000 miles and hasn’t had a carbon cleaning yet.
Yes, walnut blaster will clean much much better than any liquid or spray.
FCP Euro thank you getting it done this Friday !
Does it bother anyone else that the oil filter housing isn't covered?
I assume new gaskets are needed when replacing, is there anything else that needs to be purchased?
Aside from gaskets, if any hoses seem to be worn out, now might be a good time to replace them too.
i would not recommend using anything metal when scraping gasket surfaces
The scraping sound hurt me. I used some moli Injector cleaner and it was a great solvent for my whole decarb.
Noting wrong at all with this method. I used it when building my 550bhp built turbo R32 for my head gasket process 6 years ago. Still running like a champ daily😉.
How much does this intake cleaning cost?
what psi are you blasting at?
Acrylic lacquer thinners (as in the automotive type that was in common use before 2K paints) is extremely effective at dissolving carbon deposits.
@@jsplasha Acrylic lacquer thinners as was commonly used for ratio thinning of the factory automotive finishes used predominantly during the latter period of the 60's and through the 70's was highly volatile hydrocarbons, probably more so than high octane gasoline/petrol of the time. Acetone was not the main component of it but was often listed as one of the ingredients as I recall. On an old carburetor based engine you can could start a stubborn engine with it by filling the float chamber. It was often more effective than ether based aerosol can sprays. If you've seen a filthy carburetor blackened over the years from various backfires through the induction system lacquer thinners would instantly dissolve the deposits away especially with a paint brush. It was a favorite medium to start accident damaged cars that sat around in repair shops for months on end. That or Kerosene was also the perfect medium to store a carburetor in, say inside an old coffee tin for years and keep it fresh without oxidization of the alloys and the general crustiness that forms in carbies particularly in the float chamber when sitting unused for years. I never found acrylic lacquer thinners particularly detrimental to plastic, but I suppose it depends on the type of plastic. A lot of modern engines have plastic insert dividers in the ports and they're not only hard to remove and replace, they're also in the way to a blast medium.
I have more than once had a cylinder head tipped on it's side on the bench and filled the ports with lacquer thinners to dissolve all the crud. As long as the valve seats seal correctly it is the easiest way of cleaning the ports and back of valves and the only expenditure is patience in waiting for it to do it's job. Todays engines have recreated a problem that was once easily dealt with, and a whole new industry and labor charges have been created from motor car companies knowingly creating a problem down the track by design.
Seafoam is not sold in my country and though I'm aware of it and it's use, I'm also aware of the conflicting reports of it's effectiveness.
This is engine technological progress right here.
Vw in Germany (for German cars added Port Injection (like Toyota has done for their cars) ain't that a bitch move. NA cars didn't get it shows how much VW cares for it's NA customers.
Do you actually have to take off the coolant line? 😥
What kind of mileage does your car have? And how do you drive it?
that intake manifold removal is crazy
Same for my veloster N
Can these sparkplugs be reused after taking them out? I heard they have a one time crush gasket
Spark plugs can be reused. But it would be good to change them while you have them out if they are worn.
How much does your shop charge to do this job?
We don't have/run a public shop, however, typically a walnut blasting/carbon cleaning job runs anywhere from $300-$500 dollars at most shops.
Did u turn the crank manually to close /open inlet valves ?
Yupp, you turn it over by hand to ensure the valves you're blasting and cleaning are entirely closed.
I like this headlights. Where i cant find?
Right here! www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-headlight-kit-helix-hvwg7hl75r2
Switch to E-85 or E-98 if you have the chance. Problem solved without doing any of that. No risk of carbon build up with Engines running on Ethanol.
Ian Marshall Ethanol won’t build up carbon deposits. Vegetable fuel. Instead, It clears everything out. I challenge you to show me someone driving any car on E98 or even E85 in North America or E100 (like they offer in Brazil for example) from day 1 that will show carbon build up like that. On ehtanol running engines you will never see the valves or piston heads like that it’s a matter fact it actually looks new once you take everything apart. The explanation is simple . The fuel properties are very different ethanol will also get rid of most of the carbon build up in the engine by itself by just switching from gas to ethanol .
There were/are very old books that date to as far as the 1930’s showing all that, with a farmer that converted most equipment in his farm to run on pure ethanol, so that’s very old stuff. The de-carbonizing process starts as soon as 15-30 minutes after the engine is running 100% Ethanol and most of it starts getting flushed out through the exhaust of the engine.
Please don’t ask me the name of the books because I don’t know, my friend had it a while back.
At 80k miles on a 2010 Tiguan, I'm going thru this right now. I was waiting for a problem with the turbo, imagine my surprise when I got informed carbon build up.
Damn pandemic lock down, I need a high way to run out on!