Just wanted you to know that even though your video is 3 years old it is still helping people. I am wanting to do some Cerakote projects,..mostly gun parts, and I didn't know if one of these would work our for me or if I needed to invest in a larger compressor. Your video answered my question. My compressor will work, it will just take me longer to get the job done, which is what I suspected. I am gonna give the sandblaster gun a shot (pun intended). Thanks for the video!
One effective way to go is connecting your compressors together. You can also add tanks (I scored an industrial air receiver at auction and I promise you want one!) for surge capacity. Wiring a 10HP compressor to a single phase service is an expensive pain, but running two 5HP compressors or more is easy. You can never have too much air.
I ran a couple tanks in tandem a few years back for a huge painting project. The extra air capacity really helped a lot. I wish I had room for that now.
Informative video on low-cost sandblasting/small project options. Greatly appreciate your doing the comparison of different flow rates and different size compressors
Like this comment if you would like me to do a comparison between this blaster and the larger Harbor Freight 50lb spot blaster, I may do it soon. EDIT: here it is ua-cam.com/video/hYjOgZDwyS0/v-deo.html
They cleaned the heads up real nice on my 72 Buick. I actually just finished the engine last night and should be firing it up soon if you'd like to follow along. Thanks for the comment.
I would really like to see a comparison between high flow and low flow with the same bigger compressor. I have the bigger compressor with a secondary tank as well, but I use the standard 1/4 NPT fittings. I would like to see if the low flow with the PSI staying more consistent would still do the job.
So, it doesn't seem to be a high flow/low flow issue, as much as it's a compressor size issue. Because I imagine that if you connected the low flow hose and connector to the larger compressor, it would work just as well, and probably even last longer per sand fill, as apposed to the high flow setup.
I didn't try that setup out but it could very well be true. I went into this test assuming it would need high flow but if you have a small air compressor I believe you could probably delay it from kicking on and off a little with a lower flow nozzle and still be effective.
With sandblasting, generally the CFM is more important than the PSI. Also I don’t know how much life you could expect without a ceramic tipped gun, probably OK for what is what was designed for.
Thanks for the video, I needed to know if the small 5cfm 2hp compressor could clean up the seams on the vanagon and I think it'll be fine. It's a couple of small sections so should only be 30min with the waiting for the compressor to catch up. If you look on the forums they all tell you to get the largest compressor possible but that's out of my budget and I only need it for the odd small job.
Informative video and all but dude, 10:40 before you actually get to what the title promises then just under 2 & a half minutes of that! I had to double check at one point because I thought the video was caught in a loop.
Hey man, sorry I guess I just felt like I had a lot to explain. I thought of adding chapters to help people navigate who just want to see the results and don’t care to hear about anything else.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Don't get me wrong, I appreciate you making the video, just maybe include in the title that you'll be covering other aspects such as safety. Chapters are always a good idea. Keep on keepin' on, dude. :thumbsup:
This was my main concern. I have a small compressor in my garage, but figured "psi is psi, regardless of tank size." You just have to let the pressure build more often with a small tank. But hey, Im just aiming for cleaning up small rust bubbles on my car.
@sk4lman I wouldn't even want to see all the putty under the paint of that Buick on my page. I know it was repainted in '96...who knows what was done to prep it.
This thought crossed my mind - why not use a ski mask that covers everything but the eyes. Then wear goggles or safety glasses for the eyes. This way any splash back particles won't sting your face and at the same time your'e filtering the air (maybe wear an additional nose mask over the ski mask). I would think that one would be pretty well well protected this way. Of course one might get a little sweaty, but safety is the priority here.
I recently got a face shield that I hope helps with the sand ricochet... another issue is the amount of dust it creates which the shield will do little for. Maybe a fan blowing across the area would help.
This video is surely helpful. However you could add timestamps to your description where you actually test them both, so people could find the content faster :)
I hear ya man... just being honest, that would kill my watch time though. It's a balance, like I want to make things easier for the viewers as much as possible but I also need people to watch more of my video so UA-cam will push me more viewers. It's a struggle for sure, UA-cam considers your content "worthy of more viewers" the longer viewers watch it. What you are referring to is called "Chapters" and I know UA-cam encourages it for longer videos. Thanks for the suggestion, it's definitely something I need to figure out on this channel.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thanks for the effort though. I have very small space and was wondering if a small compressor (like a 50l) would possibly do the job. Your video answered my question :)
@@jogalong Glad I could help man. I had the same issues for years and I know other people struggle with that.... was hoping to help others with this demo. Good luck with your project.
Seems like the high flow isnt necessary at all just the big compressor.Would like to have seen the standard hose and fittings on the big compressor also,either way a great comparison.
thanks for the informative video. Does that clean diagram exist anywhere as pdf? Maybe add that somewhere and put a link in the description. thanks again.(used mine with baking soda for wood. Pool salt is mean too!)
I never thought of pool salt and I have a ton of that laying around.... actually filming another pool related video now. Not sure where a .pdf would be of this. Thanks!
Hello Bobby, the large compressor is a Craftsman 30 gallon 3hp 220 volt (pump and motor separate) with 14 CFM of displacement. It operates at 7.5 SCFM at 125 psi and 8.5 SCFM at 90psi, max pressure is 125 psi (regulated cutout). The smaller compressor is a Craftsman 1.5 Gallon 120 volt (oil free) that operates at 2 SCFM at 90 psi, max pressure is 150psi (limited info on this one because it's pretty basic). I hope this helps.
@@JackofAllTrades1 It helps a lot. I'm surprised the 30 gal 3HP can deliver that much CFM. I'm curious if there are any formulas out there to calculate how long a particular tank size can provide adequate CFM to run a sandblaster like that. The more impressive part of your demo is that the cheap HF gun can do that well with the adequate pressure behind it.
@@bobbyfoster3769 the 30 gal unit is made for painting, so its supposed to keep up with high demand. The pressure switch kicks on at 100psi as well. Not sure about formulas or calculators but I'm sure there is something out there. Cheers
@@brodieobrien-pickering2202 5.5cfm at 90 is decent. You should be fine. If the pump is working a lot then just check for moisture buildup in the line if you don't have a filter.
I got the Lematec blaster...it came with a few accessories like air fitting, spare nozzle and safety glasses...I'm thinking of tapping the end of one of the nozzles and maybe some kind of reducer to see if it will make it a bit more efficient with lower powered compressors...I have a Craftsman pancake compressor I use quite a bit for work....If I have to wait for the tank to recover, I'm ok with that...but I'm curious to see if a reducer will make any difference
I really appreciated this video. I’m trying to set up to etch glass @ 40 PSI with aluminum oxide and have no experience with compressors before this. I picked up a craftsman 6 gallon pancake, 150 PSI (2.6 CFM @ 90PSI, 3.7 @ 40). 50% duty cycle I think. Looks like it will do the job if your 2 gallon was able to do some work. Got plenty of PPE, and ceramic nozzles, but really concerned about how much debris I’ll be leaving in a condo lawn 😬. I’ll probably only be doing 2 or 3 a month of 8x10 glass…and only about 50% of each piece. Any suggestions on set up or containment would be appreciated!
I think you bring up a valid concern. You will have dust in the air that will get on things around you... in your area if you have vehicles or bushes you might notice the dust on them or if you are close enough... even debree from the medium you are using or the item you are blasting. Since I was using sand I can just brush it into the grass but you may need to put down a tarp or drop cloth to contain it. If you are out away from most stuff than that may be all you need... especially if you don't plan to reuse the medium... if you do then you will need to have a box setup similar to mine. Good luck.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks for the quick reply! I caught a good video on making a blast cabinet out of a big plastic tub. With some modification, I think that's going to do the trick and can be used indoors as well. I already talked to my closest neighbor about occasional compressor noise, but I wasn't thinking about dusting everyone's cars (or winter)! As far as comments about too much talk in this video...it's called listen and learn folks! This is the ONLY review that showed you could use this gun type with a small compressor. I'll just take breaks for the compressor's health. Not like I'm going into business (yet...lol)!
---- your 'catch container / system' is going to have a lot of bounce back and blast medium loss - plus you are way down low kneeling or crouched - instead, go to the discount store and purchase the largest, deepest simple plastic storage container they have ( or go find a real big cardboard box ). Then build you a wooden frame ( 1 x 6 ) which will fit over the top of the plastic container - staple a piece of heavy hardware cloth ( 1 x 1 being perfect ) over the top of the wood frame - then either simply set it over the plastic container ( cardboard box ) or , better yet, put 4 legs on it so you can just slide the container under the frame - you now have a catch container with a blow through top on which you can support the item being blasted - you are also now not all bent over or kneeling - you can see, you will have less sand bounce, more sand capture, and a surface to lay the gun on --- for small items, make you an open top box about a foot square with 3 inch sides from 1/4 inch hardware cloth - put it on top of the frame and it keeps you from sandblasting your fingers when doing nuts/bolts/little pieces I have a 48" X 96" 2x6 framed worktable divided into 3 equal sections on 30" legs in an open shed - two sections have 1"x2" fence wire and the 3rd has 1"x1" - it has a canvas skirt all around ( open on corners and slit into 4 equal widths down the long side so it can be draped into the catch containers ) with 4 plastic catch containers - makes blasting so much easier and catches a LOT of the blast medium - also use it a lot as a general work area and often ( unwisely ) as a paint station - course it comes down to do you have the need and space to devote to a dedicated blast area
You can take paint off from that distance but it's all over the place. Closer is def better... within 2 inches will give you a blast circle the size of a nickel.
Was planning on ordering a Gravity feed sand blaster as well for old paint stain on wooden rails and end rails with designs that make it hard to reach with a scraper … some videos on UA-cam recommended Baking soda media & online recommended Walnut shell media which I’m familiar with the grit sizes of that at least…. Which do I choose and what grit size should I start with to play it safe? 100?
For wood, I would try baking soda first. Several people here have indicated the use of baking soda for wood trim detail. If that doesn't work, then move to the walnut shells. Larger grit size is for bigger areas, smaller for finer detail.
@sherryn39455 i was using kiddie play sand here. You will need to be in a well ventilated area and have a proper respirator on for that... otherwise, I'd recommend using Blast media such as ground up walnut husks.
True, it wouldn't take much time if that is what somebody wants to do. I'd need to find a cheap or junk strainer first.... I'd never get away with using one of my wife's strainers lol. Thanks for the comment.
@@JackofAllTrades1 really appreciate you give specific info about the different compressors but specially about how to work It safely. Best review i ve seen about this gun
Did you speed the vid up when you did the low pres one? It seems like that one went a lot quicker and I felt like I could hear the compressor in the back like normal.
Great video, very helpful. Don't know if you could help me...I'm looking for a compact solution to do my inlet ports on a d.i engine. Do you reckon this will work with walnut media and do the job? It's not that those gravity fed baster vessels are too expensive, I just don't really want to have to store it, as I won't be using it much. Thank you for any advice you can offer!
This will for sure work with walnut and is small enough to not take up a ton of space. I have limited space here in my shop so buying a large tool that I may use once every couple of years just doesn't make sense. Here in a week or so I'll be testing out the Harbor Freight blaster... I introduced it in my most recent video if you are interested in it as well. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the fast reply! Very much appreciated, I'll definitely get one in that case, I'll test it out on some carbon fouled parts before I pull the intake manifold off. Thanks again for the video and for sharing your thoughts.
Hey great video man. I am restoring my dodge ram truck and i want to sand blast the rust from my frame and some of the heavy steel components. Im wondering if you think this would be a good kit for that or would i need something stronger. I have a massive compressor so im not worried about air. Thanks
Yea, this gun will work just fine but a frame is a huge project... you will be refilling this gun a lot. Something with a bigger hopper like the 50lb one I reviewed may be a better option for something so big.
I have a 1 gallon, 2 gallon, and a 26 gallon compressor. All 3 use the same hos as you used on your small compressor. Would my 26 gallon keep up with this guns demands for small jobs??
I bought a camping tent for my work shop to do my hobbies in work bench. easyer to recycle my sand & soda plenty of light windows ect. What a great idea clean up a breeze. use vacuum 👍🎪😁. U need a full face helmet ⛑️ made my own protection gear 👍
It would remove paint from wood for sure. If you are asking if it will smooth out the wood... I'm unsure, I think it would actually make the wood surface a bit fuzzy if you hit the same area too long.
Hi, what are your thoughts on using this to remove bottom paint on a boat? I think it would come off easier than your metal projects, especially if the entire head only took 20 minutes. I have no knowledge of blasting or removing bottom paint. Trying to figure it out. Thanks in advance.
It would come off... the blast pattern for this gun is about the size of a penny. Keep that in mind cause a boat is huge. You may be able to pull back some and make it larger, will just depend on how easy your paint is to strip.
great video, im putting together a kit to sand blast a motorcycle engine and a few other bits and pieces.... what compressor would you reccomend? preferably one from amazon as im in the UK. i wont use it often enough to justify spending thousands, but i dont want one that will last 3 seconds either lol. middle ground one, thanks in advance.
If you can get one that has a separate motor and pump... those are far better than the combined all in one units and also quieter. 20 or 30 gallon should do you well.
Ingersoll Rand 47708908001 P1.5IU-A9-H Garagemate 20 Gallon Horizontal Air Compressor www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZJXDGJS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DZNBNQQDYS0WSNESD19J Gosh, when did these get so expensive!? Here is the setup I speak of ... maybe you can find one for a better price across the pond.
Yea. I actually used this gun for a similar job... I busted some corrosion off all 4 aluminum wheels on my wife's van.they were not huge spots but took it down to nothing.
I would think to run it effectively without a lot of breaks your going to need something middle of the road.... 20 to 30 gallon in capacity and probably at least 4scfm at 90psi. You can use less like I did here but it would have to be for smaller jobs. Something that has a higher pressure rating (like 175 vs 135) will also cut out a lot less but may take longer to rebuild pressure once it does.
You don't want to use actual sand. Your breathing protection will only get the bigger particles. It breaks down so small that it can't be filtered effectively. Use a purpose made blasting media. Your bag of sand probably even had a warning about not using it for blasting. I'm actually researching this gun for blasting a few Buick parts, too. Hope your build is going well.
You got educated from the youtube school and not accredited institute ANY normally commercially available respirator who had passed the 42 CFR Part 84 approval is 99.97% efficient You got all the info on the box when you buy it. Breathing “fresh air” without a respirator accumulate more carcinogenic and particles than breathing asbestos WITHOUT proper respirator
"Guess if it gets clogged, you can..." Yep, but you 'll find you may take it off more to replace the steel tip. Depending on abrasive, (sand contains silica, which is dangerous AF for your lungs), the tip may last minutes, literally. Replace it w/ ceramic; well with the minor cost. Re: blasting media Do not blast unless you have a well sealed respirator, NOT a paper mask. You'll kill yourself. Blasting sand is more consistently sized, and much drier. Unless you live in the desert, don't waste your time w/ Home Depot sand. Blasting sand is not that expensive; go to a masonry supply house. Regular sand contains silica, (natural glass, & what is used to make glass.) A common media is 'green grit', (copper oxide slag). It comes in a variety of grit sizes. You can buy silica sand, but don't unless you have a fresh air hood; 1 blasting session w/ inadequate lung protection using silica can seriously impact your health. Don't eff around, silica gets in your lungs & imbeds itself, never coming out. Keep kids & pets away. Re: re-usability Media of all kinds breaks upon impact; it can be re-used, but it works the best to mix it w/ new sand, & re-use 2-3 x's, at most. Clean grease & anything the media can cling to or bounce off of; clinging or bouncing = not blasting. When you get it working right, it's just like 'painting' new metal. Not painting on new metal, it's like a layer of new metal comes outta the nozzle. A well operating blaster is mesmerizing. Try it on wood or stone to 'carve' designs/letters; someone who blasts headstones will have adhesive backed rubber sheet. Put it on, cut away your design/words & blast away. Glass/plastic frosts very nicely. If you're doing car sheet metal, keep the pressure 50-60 psi & blast at a shallow angle. The closer to 90⁰ you blast, the more chance of blasting ripples, or even heating up the metal until it get warbly. The safest medi
@@JackofAllTrades1 Glad to share. Been blasting since the '80's when I got started by going big. An old friend & I had started a biz doing auto repair, body & glass & auto parts. Picked up a state surplus blasting setup w/ a Davey 6 cyl diesel driven compressor & 60 gal media tank, (those 8' trailers you see hung from the crane, at night, in a road construction zone). Got the thing cheap for personal use for restoring antique autos & building street rods, then discovered the local blaster who'd been in the biz 40+ yrs was a drunk & had ran off most of his customers, potential & long term. Once it got around we could blast cars w/ pressure or temp warping the metal & we'd give people a great price on blasting little stuff if they weren't in a hurry, we got swamped, (we'd gather stuff up for a monthly blast-fest, then stack all the little stuff on top of frames or body parts & blast 2 for 1). In 6 months, hired 1 employee, then Willamette Industry's fab shop, which was in the same town came calling. Fed up w/ the drunk, & excited we could blast & paint, we got all their in-house equipment & repairs they did for the entire NW. Two months in, added a 2nd blasting employee & Willamette saw us & raised by branching out into contract work. We did some cool projects for them, & our fledgling Industrial Blasting & Painting Div carried the biz thru the recession of the early '80's & the usual growing pain re: starvation. We blasted & painted, (w/ catalyzed polyurethane in a spatter finish), the world's largest electron beam smelter oven, destined & still operating in the Ukraine. The feed auger was 47' long, 8' in diameter! We blasted in a 3 x 8 hr shifts for just over 3 wks, then my partner & I painted in 2 x10 hr shifts for 3 more. Paint & media were delivered on pallets, & Willamette parked a small diesel truck in the old lumber barn we were working in, so we could keep going. Got done ahead of schedule enough they got an early completion bonus, which they gave us a cut of. For 2 guys who were starving & trying to recover from severe industrial/work related injuries in '79, we were riding high. The other, much smaller, but very cool item we did for Willamette was, at the time, the largest glass lens polisher ever built. Made for Kodak, we never learned what the 48" capacity polisher was used for, as it was classified. Willamette didn't know. I've speculated since then; this was at the same time the Hubbel telescope was being built. Since the 1st set of Hubbel's lens turned out to be garbage & had to be replaced, in space, I never pushed to find out if Kodak made lenses for the Hubbel! LOL... My old friend got weird re: our partnership & how much I was needed. Since he owned the property & the partially built building I turned into a dream shop & business, (employees did the day to day, he & I built hot rods & race cars), I was the one to go. Turned out I was fairly crucial to the biz; he & his new GF's dad, (who'd been whispering in my partner's ear re: me.), lasted 6 whole months after I left. I've had smaller blasters every since. Had a customized combo cabinet/outside blast tank unit I built, starting w/ a common brand cab. Over the years, I've blasted just about anything that could be blasted, & a few things that shouldn't be blasted, (low pressure peels bark from logs & rines from certain fruits; getting it free of media, post peeling, is the challenge. Tried almost every media looking for a safer, high quality abrasive, except for water slurry; keep coming back to green grit for 80% & silica for the special jobs. Gettin' old, (70 this month), in 4th year & 3rd bout of cancer, so I 'spoiled' myself by hiring a local soda blasting outfit to do a vintage fire damaged, (plastic soot), metal cabinet destined for my machine shop area, to store metrology equipment. Didn't quibble over $150/hr or how long it would take. Got it back & it turned my stomach. Still rusty, OEM paint only half gone; from the looks of it, the kid who blasted it was too lazy to bend over & get the bottom side of anything, or stick the wand inside, (probably couldn't handle the blow back). Hey, blasting's chitty work; it's why it's $150-200/hr. So, w/ ½ the money refunded, my old azz is going to have to do what the 20-something couldn't/wouldn't. Let me know if you wanna pick my brain on blasting process or equipment repair/design. If I survive the cancer long enough, I'm planning in launching a YT channel I started planning pre-cancer. Been making, fabing, doing & repairing since the '60's; no kids or grandkids interested, & a lot of hard mile knowledge & experience is gonna go with me if I don't share. Sorry to go on; nature of the beast in my head. Need to get busy, installing new mill this week. GeoD
You think the 20 gallon McGraw from harbor freight would be good for sand blasting wheels? One at a time is what I’m going for. Just good enough for working at home. Trying to save money. I was going to go for the 80 gallon but yea it’s $800+.
Drop a few bucks on some high flow connectors... I got my hose and connectors at HF and they have held up well. I think if you keep an eye on the compressor and allow it to cool down when needed, you will be fine. Good luck.
Some words to help keep peoples attention show bit if works or not then explain I can’t past all talking when I need yes maybe or no just think if you the isle and find out I need this Product 15 min long time just for the one brand u can always make a video that I would watch later with the Wich was best of because I’ve already trusted you in a pinch
You obviously have never seen how tiny the steel shot used at a machine shop to clean cylinder heads & blocks. It's so small that they have to cleaned many times, and then when you recieve it back you have to clean it again. So it won't be any more difficult then cleaning out steel shot.
@williamallen7836 yea, and both those heads were cleaned up about 0.010 and tanked after the sand blasting, so I knew it would be ok. Thanks for the comment.
@@JackofAllTrades1 why complain, because I can ,thought you would want constructive criticism, and no you don’t have to edit just for me , seems like I’ve touched a nerve. Lol
@@christopherjohnson6056 very few people have had issues with the talking but I have had that comment before. I also have had comments about not enough detail for people who have no clue what they are doing. You can't please them all right?
I can't get my harbor freight gun to work like the one you have. Air compressor is a Husky 200psi 4.0 SCFM @90 psi. It stops and once in awhile it will shoot out the media like it's supposed to. I have used different size media and it still doesn't work right. I have the gun and the container sand blaster also from harbor freight, neither want to shoot out the media correctly. It's very frustrating.. I bought the air compressor for this because I work on a lot of furniture. It will save money and time. I have a 100ft air line hose maybe that's causing the issue? I bought a moisture filter so hopefully that will help. I live by the ocean so we have very salty moist air. Have any suggestions? Any help I will appreciate. I'm desperate to get this to work for my small business. I have put a lot of money in to this already.
My first thoughts are the hose and the filter. Can you try it with a smaller hose? Did it possibly come with a little hose in the box? Also remove the filter drier for now.
Just wanted you to know that even though your video is 3 years old it is still helping people. I am wanting to do some Cerakote projects,..mostly gun parts, and I didn't know if one of these would work our for me or if I needed to invest in a larger compressor. Your video answered my question. My compressor will work, it will just take me longer to get the job done, which is what I suspected. I am gonna give the sandblaster gun a shot (pun intended). Thanks for the video!
Awesome... that's why I made this video, I had the same question and figured others would too.
Finally. Someone who gives a proper review with all the possible questions answered!! Great job Son!!! 😎
Thank you!
One effective way to go is connecting your compressors together. You can also add tanks (I scored an industrial air receiver at auction and I promise you want one!) for surge capacity. Wiring a 10HP compressor to a single phase service is an expensive pain, but running two 5HP compressors or more is easy. You can never have too much air.
I ran a couple tanks in tandem a few years back for a huge painting project. The extra air capacity really helped a lot. I wish I had room for that now.
Thanks for the video! I'm an amateur DIY-er and had been toying around with the idea of getting one of these. Your video sealed the deal for me.
Great, it's a heck of a tool. Make sure to wear proper PPE to keep your lungs safe. Take care
Informative video on low-cost sandblasting/small project options. Greatly appreciate your doing the comparison of different flow rates and different size compressors
Thanks David, I appreciate the kid words.
Like this comment if you would like me to do a comparison between this blaster and the larger Harbor Freight 50lb spot blaster, I may do it soon. EDIT: here it is ua-cam.com/video/hYjOgZDwyS0/v-deo.html
couldn't have been done at a more perfect time.Ive got some Model A wheels to clean .Thank you Dean J.😊
They cleaned the heads up real nice on my 72 Buick. I actually just finished the engine last night and should be firing it up soon if you'd like to follow along. Thanks for the comment.
Lol same. I have 3 furniture projects to be completed by Xmas.
I'm really pleased you put so much emphasis on protecting yourself.
Thanks... that dust is nasty stuff.
I would really like to see a comparison between high flow and low flow with the same bigger compressor. I have the bigger compressor with a secondary tank as well, but I use the standard 1/4 NPT fittings. I would like to see if the low flow with the PSI staying more consistent would still do the job.
Thanks for the video idea!
Great review and comparison totally answered my questions and concerns.
Awesome, thank you.
Thank you for an honest and very useful review!!
Thank you.
So, it doesn't seem to be a high flow/low flow issue, as much as it's a compressor size issue.
Because I imagine that if you connected the low flow hose and connector to the larger compressor, it would work just as well, and probably even last longer per sand fill, as apposed to the high flow setup.
I didn't try that setup out but it could very well be true. I went into this test assuming it would need high flow but if you have a small air compressor I believe you could probably delay it from kicking on and off a little with a lower flow nozzle and still be effective.
With sandblasting, generally the CFM is more important than the PSI. Also I don’t know how much life you could expect without a ceramic tipped gun, probably OK for what is what was designed for.
Yea, I can't imagine I lasting too long, but it's heald up to 4 major projects in 3 years.
Thanks for the video, I needed to know if the small 5cfm 2hp compressor could clean up the seams on the vanagon and I think it'll be fine. It's a couple of small sections so should only be 30min with the waiting for the compressor to catch up. If you look on the forums they all tell you to get the largest compressor possible but that's out of my budget and I only need it for the odd small job.
If you have the time then it will do it. You will get about 5-6 seconds of good blasting out of each full pressure charge.
Informative video and all but dude, 10:40 before you actually get to what the title promises then just under 2 & a half minutes of that! I had to double check at one point because I thought the video was caught in a loop.
Hey man, sorry I guess I just felt like I had a lot to explain. I thought of adding chapters to help people navigate who just want to see the results and don’t care to hear about anything else.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Don't get me wrong, I appreciate you making the video, just maybe include in the title that you'll be covering other aspects such as safety. Chapters are always a good idea.
Keep on keepin' on, dude. :thumbsup:
This was my main concern. I have a small compressor in my garage, but figured "psi is psi, regardless of tank size."
You just have to let the pressure build more often with a small tank. But hey, Im just aiming for cleaning up small rust bubbles on my car.
@@sk4lman it'll do it if you have the time. :)
@@JackofAllTrades1 You can only mix so much putty at a time 😄
@sk4lman I wouldn't even want to see all the putty under the paint of that Buick on my page. I know it was repainted in '96...who knows what was done to prep it.
This thought crossed my mind - why not use a ski mask that covers everything but the eyes. Then wear goggles or safety glasses for the eyes. This way any splash back particles won't sting your face and at the same time your'e filtering the air (maybe wear an additional nose mask over the ski mask). I would think that one would be pretty well well protected this way. Of course one might get a little sweaty, but safety is the priority here.
I recently got a face shield that I hope helps with the sand ricochet... another issue is the amount of dust it creates which the shield will do little for. Maybe a fan blowing across the area would help.
This video is surely helpful. However you could add timestamps to your description where you actually test them both, so people could find the content faster :)
I hear ya man... just being honest, that would kill my watch time though. It's a balance, like I want to make things easier for the viewers as much as possible but I also need people to watch more of my video so UA-cam will push me more viewers. It's a struggle for sure, UA-cam considers your content "worthy of more viewers" the longer viewers watch it. What you are referring to is called "Chapters" and I know UA-cam encourages it for longer videos. Thanks for the suggestion, it's definitely something I need to figure out on this channel.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thanks for the effort though. I have very small space and was wondering if a small compressor (like a 50l) would possibly do the job. Your video answered my question :)
@@jogalong Glad I could help man. I had the same issues for years and I know other people struggle with that.... was hoping to help others with this demo. Good luck with your project.
Seems like the high flow isnt necessary at all just the big compressor.Would like to have seen the standard hose and fittings on the big compressor also,either way a great comparison.
Thanks!
Thanks for a great video. Appreciate the info about safety equipment needed.
Glad you liked the video.
thanks for the informative video. Does that clean diagram exist anywhere as pdf? Maybe add that somewhere and put a link in the description. thanks again.(used mine with baking soda for wood. Pool salt is mean too!)
I never thought of pool salt and I have a ton of that laying around.... actually filming another pool related video now. Not sure where a .pdf would be of this. Thanks!
Can you tell me what are the actual sizes of the two compressors? (HP, tank size, and CFM)
Hello Bobby, the large compressor is a Craftsman 30 gallon 3hp 220 volt (pump and motor separate) with 14 CFM of displacement. It operates at 7.5 SCFM at 125 psi and 8.5 SCFM at 90psi, max pressure is 125 psi (regulated cutout). The smaller compressor is a Craftsman 1.5 Gallon 120 volt (oil free) that operates at 2 SCFM at 90 psi, max pressure is 150psi (limited info on this one because it's pretty basic). I hope this helps.
@@JackofAllTrades1 It helps a lot. I'm surprised the 30 gal 3HP can deliver that much CFM. I'm curious if there are any formulas out there to calculate how long a particular tank size can provide adequate CFM to run a sandblaster like that. The more impressive part of your demo is that the cheap HF gun can do that well with the adequate pressure behind it.
@@bobbyfoster3769 the 30 gal unit is made for painting, so its supposed to keep up with high demand. The pressure switch kicks on at 100psi as well. Not sure about formulas or calculators but I'm sure there is something out there. Cheers
@@JackofAllTrades1 think a 30gall 5.5cfm at 90psi would still be tedious?
@@brodieobrien-pickering2202 5.5cfm at 90 is decent. You should be fine. If the pump is working a lot then just check for moisture buildup in the line if you don't have a filter.
I got the Lematec blaster...it came with a few accessories like air fitting, spare nozzle and safety glasses...I'm thinking of tapping the end of one of the nozzles and maybe some kind of reducer to see if it will make it a bit more efficient with lower powered compressors...I have a Craftsman pancake compressor I use quite a bit for work....If I have to wait for the tank to recover, I'm ok with that...but I'm curious to see if a reducer will make any difference
The nozzle on this one is pretty small which I believe helps. Not so much wasted material either.
I really appreciated this video. I’m trying to set up to etch glass @ 40 PSI with aluminum oxide and have no experience with compressors before this.
I picked up a craftsman 6 gallon pancake, 150 PSI (2.6 CFM @ 90PSI, 3.7 @ 40). 50% duty cycle I think. Looks like it will do the job if your 2 gallon was able to do some work. Got plenty of PPE, and ceramic nozzles, but really concerned about how much debris I’ll be leaving in a condo lawn 😬. I’ll probably only be doing 2 or 3 a month of 8x10 glass…and only about 50% of each piece. Any suggestions on set up or containment would be appreciated!
I think you bring up a valid concern. You will have dust in the air that will get on things around you... in your area if you have vehicles or bushes you might notice the dust on them or if you are close enough... even debree from the medium you are using or the item you are blasting. Since I was using sand I can just brush it into the grass but you may need to put down a tarp or drop cloth to contain it. If you are out away from most stuff than that may be all you need... especially if you don't plan to reuse the medium... if you do then you will need to have a box setup similar to mine. Good luck.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks for the quick reply! I caught a good video on making a blast cabinet out of a big plastic tub. With some modification, I think that's going to do the trick and can be used indoors as well. I already talked to my closest neighbor about occasional compressor noise, but I wasn't thinking about dusting everyone's cars (or winter)! As far as comments about too much talk in this video...it's called listen and learn folks! This is the ONLY review that showed you could use this gun type with a small compressor. I'll just take breaks for the compressor's health. Not like I'm going into business (yet...lol)!
@@TYoung023 thanks for the generous comment, I appreciate it and wish you luck with your project.
---- your 'catch container / system' is going to have a lot of bounce back and blast medium loss - plus you are way down low kneeling or crouched - instead, go to the discount store and purchase the largest, deepest simple plastic storage container they have ( or go find a real big cardboard box ). Then build you a wooden frame ( 1 x 6 ) which will fit over the top of the plastic container - staple a piece of heavy hardware cloth ( 1 x 1 being perfect ) over the top of the wood frame - then either simply set it over the plastic container ( cardboard box ) or , better yet, put 4 legs on it so you can just slide the container under the frame - you now have a catch container with a blow through top on which you can support the item being blasted - you are also now not all bent over or kneeling - you can see, you will have less sand bounce, more sand capture, and a surface to lay the gun on --- for small items, make you an open top box about a foot square with 3 inch sides from 1/4 inch hardware cloth - put it on top of the frame and it keeps you from sandblasting your fingers when doing nuts/bolts/little pieces
I have a 48" X 96" 2x6 framed worktable divided into 3 equal sections on 30" legs in an open shed - two sections have 1"x2" fence wire and the 3rd has 1"x1" - it has a canvas skirt all around ( open on corners and slit into 4 equal widths down the long side so it can be draped into the catch containers ) with 4 plastic catch containers - makes blasting so much easier and catches a LOT of the blast medium - also use it a lot as a general work area and often ( unwisely ) as a paint station - course it comes down to do you have the need and space to devote to a dedicated blast area
That is some good information, thanks for sharing your setup.
Thanks for the video. Very thorough.
Awesome, thank you.
Operated within a foot? Looks more like within 2 inches. Does a decent job though. Thanks.
You can take paint off from that distance but it's all over the place. Closer is def better... within 2 inches will give you a blast circle the size of a nickel.
Was planning on ordering a Gravity feed sand blaster as well for old paint stain on wooden rails and end rails with designs that make it hard to reach with a scraper … some videos on UA-cam recommended Baking soda media & online recommended Walnut shell media which I’m familiar with the grit sizes of that at least…. Which do I choose and what grit size should I start with to play it safe? 100?
For wood, I would try baking soda first. Several people here have indicated the use of baking soda for wood trim detail. If that doesn't work, then move to the walnut shells. Larger grit size is for bigger areas, smaller for finer detail.
excellent review , many helpful tips , thanks
Thank you
What kind of sand do you use
@sherryn39455 i was using kiddie play sand here. You will need to be in a well ventilated area and have a proper respirator on for that... otherwise, I'd recommend using
Blast media such as ground up walnut husks.
Great video, I have a 2hp 7cfm compressor, max pressure 8 bar and 50L tank, this should be okay just take a while losing pressure?
Yes, it should work.
Hello, sir, coming to this video years later. What was the CFM at 90 PSI for the 30 gallon Craftman’s compressor?
Hello... LordHog does sound familiar. I believe I put all the specs to the compressors in the video description. Check it out.
@@JackofAllTrades1Thanks, found it.
before reusing the "dirty" sand why not use a wire strainer to take away the dirty stuff before recycling ? it doesn`t take that much time !
True, it wouldn't take much time if that is what somebody wants to do. I'd need to find a cheap or junk strainer first.... I'd never get away with using one of my wife's strainers lol. Thanks for the comment.
Great review dude!
Thank you!
@@JackofAllTrades1 really appreciate you give specific info about the different compressors but specially about how to work It safely. Best review i ve seen about this gun
Did you speed the vid up when you did the low pres one? It seems like that one went a lot quicker and I felt like I could hear the compressor in the back like normal.
Hello...yes Both the high pressure and low pressure sections have normal speed and sped up sections.
thanks for your video this helps alot
Great, thank you.
Great video, very helpful.
Don't know if you could help me...I'm looking for a compact solution to do my inlet ports on a d.i engine. Do you reckon this will work with walnut media and do the job? It's not that those gravity fed baster vessels are too expensive, I just don't really want to have to store it, as I won't be using it much.
Thank you for any advice you can offer!
This will for sure work with walnut and is small enough to not take up a ton of space. I have limited space here in my shop so buying a large tool that I may use once every couple of years just doesn't make sense. Here in a week or so I'll be testing out the Harbor Freight blaster... I introduced it in my most recent video if you are interested in it as well. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the fast reply! Very much appreciated, I'll definitely get one in that case, I'll test it out on some carbon fouled parts before I pull the intake manifold off. Thanks again for the video and for sharing your thoughts.
Hey great video man. I am restoring my dodge ram truck and i want to sand blast the rust from my frame and some of the heavy steel components. Im wondering if you think this would be a good kit for that or would i need something stronger. I have a massive compressor so im not worried about air. Thanks
Yea, this gun will work just fine but a frame is a huge project... you will be refilling this gun a lot. Something with a bigger hopper like the 50lb one I reviewed may be a better option for something so big.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thanks man i really appreciate it.
I have a 1 gallon, 2 gallon, and a 26 gallon compressor. All 3 use the same hos as you used on your small compressor. Would my 26 gallon keep up with this guns demands for small jobs??
For small jobs it definately should.
I bought a camping tent for my work shop to do my hobbies in work bench. easyer to recycle my sand & soda plenty of light windows ect. What a great idea clean up a breeze. use vacuum 👍🎪😁. U need a full face helmet ⛑️ made my own protection gear 👍
That sounds like a great idea. I was trying to figure out how to do that in my garage without making a mess. I think I will try this. Thanks!
You definitely need to have a compressor that can keep up. My pancake compressor can’t do it.
The smaller your comoressor, the more patience is needed lol
So can this eradicate light sanding on wood with a small compressor?
It would remove paint from wood for sure. If you are asking if it will smooth out the wood... I'm unsure, I think it would actually make the wood surface a bit fuzzy if you hit the same area too long.
Would results be the same if using soda as the medium? Thanks.
Soda is a tad bit softer but has fewer health hazards.
Hey, could this be used to walnut blast? And can you change the nozzle to a different size?
Yea it can walnut blast, and the nozzle does unscrew, so I assume as long as you found the identical threads, it could be changed.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you! 🍻
Hi, what are your thoughts on using this to remove bottom paint on a boat? I think it would come off easier than your metal projects, especially if the entire head only took 20 minutes. I have no knowledge of blasting or removing bottom paint. Trying to figure it out. Thanks in advance.
It would come off... the blast pattern for this gun is about the size of a penny. Keep that in mind cause a boat is huge. You may be able to pull back some and make it larger, will just depend on how easy your paint is to strip.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Oh yeah, that would.def take forever. 34ft boat. Thank you
Consider using soda blasting, it may not be as damaging to the fiberglass
great video, im putting together a kit to sand blast a motorcycle engine and a few other bits and pieces.... what compressor would you reccomend? preferably one from amazon as im in the UK. i wont use it often enough to justify spending thousands, but i dont want one that will last 3 seconds either lol. middle ground one, thanks in advance.
If you can get one that has a separate motor and pump... those are far better than the combined all in one units and also quieter. 20 or 30 gallon should do you well.
Ingersoll Rand 47708908001 P1.5IU-A9-H Garagemate 20 Gallon Horizontal Air Compressor www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZJXDGJS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DZNBNQQDYS0WSNESD19J
Gosh, when did these get so expensive!? Here is the setup I speak of ... maybe you can find one for a better price across the pond.
What could go wrong standing engine heads up against your cars paint work.?
Lol. If you saw the conditions of those cars, they are not special at all.
Great job. Do you think this gun can work using a 2.6 hp scfm 6 gallon 150 psi air compressor to remove the clear coat from aluminum rims?
Yea. I actually used this gun for a similar job... I busted some corrosion off all 4 aluminum wheels on my wife's van.they were not huge spots but took it down to nothing.
Good video....
Thank you
What's a must have compressor size to run this gun?
I would think to run it effectively without a lot of breaks your going to need something middle of the road.... 20 to 30 gallon in capacity and probably at least 4scfm at 90psi. You can use less like I did here but it would have to be for smaller jobs. Something that has a higher pressure rating (like 175 vs 135) will also cut out a lot less but may take longer to rebuild pressure once it does.
Can I use a car tire air compressor to power a sand blaster?
Does it have a storage tank?
You don't want to use actual sand. Your breathing protection will only get the bigger particles. It breaks down so small that it can't be filtered effectively. Use a purpose made blasting media. Your bag of sand probably even had a warning about not using it for blasting. I'm actually researching this gun for blasting a few Buick parts, too. Hope your build is going well.
Thanks for the heads up, I figured a respirator would be enough protection outside. Luckily I'm done blasting.
You got educated from the youtube school and not accredited institute
ANY normally commercially available respirator who had passed the 42 CFR Part 84 approval is 99.97% efficient
You got all the info on the box when you buy it.
Breathing “fresh air” without a respirator accumulate more carcinogenic and particles than breathing asbestos WITHOUT proper respirator
thxx good explaination
Thank you
I have a 2 gallon 1.2 HP compressor. Do you think I can use this gun?
I think you could use this blaster for small things. Yes
You really took the time to bleep out your house number on your garage 🤣
You do realize there’s a million people that have the same house number lol
Lol... it was a huge pain in the butt too.... lesson learned for sure.
Can it etch on granite and marble?
I don't think sand would be strong enough... maybe glass beads? I'm not sure.... my first impression is no.
"Guess if it gets clogged, you can..."
Yep, but you 'll find you may take it off more to replace the steel tip.
Depending on abrasive, (sand contains silica, which is dangerous AF for your lungs), the tip may last minutes, literally. Replace it w/ ceramic; well with the minor cost.
Re: blasting media
Do not blast unless you have a well sealed respirator, NOT a paper mask. You'll kill yourself.
Blasting sand is more consistently sized, and much drier. Unless you live in the desert, don't waste your time w/ Home Depot sand. Blasting sand is not that expensive; go to a masonry supply house.
Regular sand contains silica, (natural glass, & what is used to make glass.) A common media is 'green grit', (copper oxide slag). It comes in a variety of grit sizes.
You can buy silica sand, but don't unless you have a fresh air hood; 1 blasting session w/ inadequate lung protection using silica can seriously impact your health.
Don't eff around, silica gets in your lungs & imbeds itself, never coming out.
Keep kids & pets away.
Re: re-usability
Media of all kinds breaks upon impact; it can be re-used, but it works the best to mix it w/ new sand, & re-use 2-3 x's, at most.
Clean grease & anything the media can cling to or bounce off of; clinging or bouncing = not blasting.
When you get it working right, it's just like 'painting' new metal. Not painting on new metal, it's like a layer of new metal comes outta the nozzle.
A well operating blaster is mesmerizing.
Try it on wood or stone to 'carve' designs/letters; someone who blasts headstones will have adhesive backed rubber sheet. Put it on, cut away your design/words & blast away.
Glass/plastic frosts very nicely.
If you're doing car sheet metal, keep the pressure 50-60 psi & blast at a shallow angle. The closer to 90⁰ you blast, the more chance of blasting ripples, or even heating up the metal until it get warbly.
The safest medi
Thanks George, that's a lot of helpful information to add to this video.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Glad to share. Been blasting since the '80's when I got started by going big. An old friend & I had started a biz doing auto repair, body & glass & auto parts. Picked up a state surplus blasting setup w/ a Davey 6 cyl diesel driven compressor & 60 gal media tank, (those 8' trailers you see hung from the crane, at night, in a road construction zone).
Got the thing cheap for personal use for restoring antique autos & building street rods, then discovered the local blaster who'd been in the biz 40+ yrs was a drunk & had ran off most of his customers, potential & long term.
Once it got around we could blast cars w/ pressure or temp warping the metal & we'd give people a great price on blasting little stuff if they weren't in a hurry, we got swamped, (we'd gather stuff up for a monthly blast-fest, then stack all the little stuff on top of frames or body parts & blast 2 for 1).
In 6 months, hired 1 employee, then Willamette Industry's fab shop, which was in the same town came calling. Fed up w/ the drunk, & excited we could blast & paint, we got all their in-house equipment & repairs they did for the entire NW.
Two months in, added a 2nd blasting employee & Willamette saw us & raised by branching out into contract work.
We did some cool projects for them, & our fledgling Industrial Blasting & Painting Div carried the biz thru the recession of the early '80's & the usual growing pain re: starvation.
We blasted & painted, (w/ catalyzed polyurethane in a spatter finish), the world's largest electron beam smelter oven, destined & still operating in the Ukraine. The feed auger was 47' long, 8' in diameter! We blasted in a 3 x 8 hr shifts for just over 3 wks, then my partner & I painted in 2 x10 hr shifts for 3 more.
Paint & media were delivered on pallets, & Willamette parked a small diesel truck in the old lumber barn we were working in, so we could keep going.
Got done ahead of schedule enough they got an early completion bonus, which they gave us a cut of.
For 2 guys who were starving & trying to recover from severe industrial/work related injuries in '79, we were riding high.
The other, much smaller, but very cool item we did for Willamette was, at the time, the largest glass lens polisher ever built. Made for Kodak, we never learned what the 48" capacity polisher was used for, as it was classified. Willamette didn't know.
I've speculated since then; this was at the same time the Hubbel telescope was being built. Since the 1st set of Hubbel's lens turned out to be garbage & had to be replaced, in space, I never pushed to find out if Kodak made lenses for the Hubbel! LOL...
My old friend got weird re: our partnership & how much I was needed. Since he owned the property & the partially built building I turned into a dream shop & business, (employees did the day to day, he & I built hot rods & race cars), I was the one to go.
Turned out I was fairly crucial to the biz; he & his new GF's dad, (who'd been whispering in my partner's ear re: me.), lasted 6 whole months after I left.
I've had smaller blasters every since. Had a customized combo cabinet/outside blast tank unit I built, starting w/ a common brand cab.
Over the years, I've blasted just about anything that could be blasted, & a few things that shouldn't be blasted, (low pressure peels bark from logs & rines from certain fruits; getting it free of media, post peeling, is the challenge.
Tried almost every media looking for a safer, high quality abrasive, except for water slurry; keep coming back to green grit for 80% & silica for the special jobs.
Gettin' old, (70 this month), in 4th year & 3rd bout of cancer, so I 'spoiled' myself by hiring a local soda blasting outfit to do a vintage fire damaged, (plastic soot), metal cabinet destined for my machine shop area, to store metrology equipment.
Didn't quibble over $150/hr or how long it would take. Got it back & it turned my stomach. Still rusty, OEM paint only half gone; from the looks of it, the kid who blasted it was too lazy to bend over & get the bottom side of anything, or stick the wand inside, (probably couldn't handle the blow back). Hey, blasting's chitty work; it's why it's $150-200/hr.
So, w/ ½ the money refunded, my old azz is going to have to do what the 20-something couldn't/wouldn't.
Let me know if you wanna pick my brain on blasting process or equipment repair/design.
If I survive the cancer long enough, I'm planning in launching a YT channel I started planning pre-cancer.
Been making, fabing, doing & repairing since the '60's; no kids or grandkids interested, & a lot of hard mile knowledge & experience is gonna go with me if I don't share.
Sorry to go on; nature of the beast in my head. Need to get busy, installing new mill this week.
GeoD
All that talking just for that 🤣
I've heard that people just want to watch sandblasting...I thought it would be boring. I guess I won't speed it up next time lol
Why do they not include directions in the box?
I guess because it's just too simple. I was surprised to have a part number list though... who knows what could actually be done with that.
@@JackofAllTrades1 may be but not everyone knows about air compressors, tools, etc. a beginner in the DIY world needs info
@@lynnmetcalf3432 true, this box was bare bones. Hopefully my video helped with any questions you may have had.
@@JackofAllTrades1 yes it certainly did!
@@lynnmetcalf3432 that's good to hear man, that's why I made it. Thanks!
You think the 20 gallon McGraw from harbor freight would be good for sand blasting wheels? One at a time is what I’m going for. Just good enough for working at home. Trying to save money. I was going to go for the 80 gallon but yea it’s $800+.
Drop a few bucks on some high flow connectors... I got my hose and connectors at HF and they have held up well. I think if you keep an eye on the compressor and allow it to cool down when needed, you will be fine. Good luck.
Some words to help keep peoples attention show bit if works or not then explain I can’t past all talking when I need yes maybe or no just think if you the isle and find out I need this Product 15 min long time just for the one brand u can always make a video that I would watch later with the Wich was best of because I’ve already trusted you in a pinch
Good luck getting all that sand out of those cylinder heads
Check out my car videos to see it burning rubber lol
You obviously have never seen how tiny the steel shot used at a machine shop to clean cylinder heads & blocks. It's so small that they have to cleaned many times, and then when you recieve it back you have to clean it again. So it won't be any more difficult then cleaning out steel shot.
@williamallen7836 yea, and both those heads were cleaned up about 0.010 and tanked after the sand blasting, so I knew it would be ok. Thanks for the comment.
Get on with it please.
And then people complain when I dont explain enough. Fast fwd past the stuff you don't wanna see.
No very helpful no compressor shown or output,
Derek, check out the video details... it's all there.
Don’t use sand if you fancy your lungs!!!!!!!
Definitely use proper PPE if you are going to use sand.
@@JackofAllTrades1 There’s not a mask made that will catch the particles that using sand will put it off in the air
Man you talk too much, pffff
@@edsurpes5283 let me guess... you just wanted to see sandblasting with no details.
Sorry I didn’t last out , too much talking .
I guess... thanks for the view? Why complain? It's not like I can edit the video for just you.
@@JackofAllTrades1 why complain, because I can ,thought you would want constructive criticism, and no you don’t have to edit just for me , seems like I’ve touched a nerve. Lol
@@christopherjohnson6056 very few people have had issues with the talking but I have had that comment before. I also have had comments about not enough detail for people who have no clue what they are doing. You can't please them all right?
Too much talk .
10 minutes of crap!
Thanks for the view.
@@JackofAllTrades1 🤣
Great job pal!
Thanks!
I can't get my harbor freight gun to work like the one you have. Air compressor is a Husky 200psi 4.0 SCFM @90 psi. It stops and once in awhile it will shoot out the media like it's supposed to. I have used different size media and it still doesn't work right. I have the gun and the container sand blaster also from harbor freight, neither want to shoot out the media correctly. It's very frustrating.. I bought the air compressor for this because I work on a lot of furniture. It will save money and time. I have a 100ft air line hose maybe that's causing the issue? I bought a moisture filter so hopefully that will help. I live by the ocean so we have very salty moist air. Have any suggestions? Any help I will appreciate. I'm desperate to get this to work for my small business. I have put a lot of money in to this already.
My first thoughts are the hose and the filter. Can you try it with a smaller hose? Did it possibly come with a little hose in the box? Also remove the filter drier for now.
ty for this
Np man, glad it was helpful.