I know this a old video but spongy brakes could just be a caliper is hanging up Rusty caliper pins is my go to fix. 9 out 10 times that's it. Remove all the calipers check for uneven brake pad wear them replace said brake pads lube up Brake caliper pins , yes uneven pad wear will cause spongy petal. BTW I checked out the video because I really need to replace booster due to hard brake petal and a hissing noise coming from booster area Vacuum leak but still checking it out , I hope it is just the check valve.
So my brakes have been spongy for a very long time over time I've gotten so used to it. I came to point where I just wanted to have regular breaking power because on a rainy day I had to brake from a distance or else I would feel the brakes slide, even going over a speed bump would do the exact same thing. So I thought enough was enough so I called my mechanic friend and he suggested to bleed the brakes for bubbles, but that was a negative. He then suggested to replace the master cylinder which I also thought would be the real reason, and replacing it would solve the issue, but that was also a negative my brakes are still spongy. So now I'm now I'm stuck with wtf is going on with my brakes. Mechanic friend mentioned down thing about the ABS, but I'm not as familiar with the part just the name. Anywho I was wondering what do you suggest? because I haven't been in touch with my buddy since he's been really busy.
Sybreeds yeah im not sure either, in my pickup, its exactly like that. I bled the brakes, changed the master, changed the front calipers, and nothing changed. I feel like thats just how this truck is suppose to feel. Sorry.
Sybreeds did you resolve the issue? I did the same thing and my brakes still spongy then I noticed it sounds like its sucking in air from the lines behind the power steering reservoir? Vacuum Peake maybe?
Rolando Robles sorry for the late reply, but unfortunately it’s a Scion issue at least from what I read in multiple forums from different sites. So I won’t even sweat it. I’m used to it but still very dangerous especially on rainy days
@@murphdogfilms89 bench bleeding is so you can remove the air from the piston cylinder so once you install it, the only air is in the lines and calipers. and as you bleed the brakes you make sure the resevoir doesnt go empty so you dont have to start over.
Rolando Robles no i understand the bench bleeding part. Why do you need to activate the abs? Also once you up bolt the master dose it just pull out or do you need to disconnect any linkage on the brake pedal?
@@murphdogfilms89 because once you take the master out, air can get into the abs module. so you activate the abs so any air thats in the module, can get pushed to the caliper to be bled.
Did this fix the problem? I have this problem with my Scion changed the master cylinder not sure if I should invest on the booster. or if you did resolve the problem what was the solution? Would greatly appreciate ur feedback, Thanks.
Oh very nice, just uploaded not even a month ago. I have a question for you, my car yesterday I had just started to drive stopped braking, the pedal goes straight in, though it still tends to stop, the breaking power i had before is lost. I went to autozone, but some brake fluid and added it. I took the car for a drive and the brake light went off, the pedal didn't become as firm as before but it was a little sturdier. I wasn't contempt so I took the car for another drive, and then it happened again, brake light went on and the pedal was going to the floor. I checked the the brake fluid and it was at the "min" like again, so I added more brake fluid but this time instead of driving I stayed in park and pumped the brakes about ten times. I checked the fluid once again and it was down at "min" once again. Before this happened, my left rear tire was making a grinding noise, I would get of the car and smell like something burning, mostly chemical. Would you think this is a leak or an issue with the master cylinder and the crake booster? If so do you have any idea what it should cost? Whether it be the master cylinder and the brake booster, or a leaked line? Thanks for the help and the video, very helpful.
Eric Escorcia i would say you defitnitly have a leak somewhere. I would check under your car for any wet spots. Then check your wheels to see if any of the calipers are leaking. Is your car rusty? Ive had brake lines have a pinhole leak and drained the fluid. So i would jack the car up and if you can have someone press the pedal and look for misting.
normally, I would work on my car, but I live in Chicago and we have - degree weather, so Im going to take it to the shop after I get out of work. its the same car, 2007 scion tc, for like a week the rear left wheel was a making a really loud grinding sound,. so Ill just have them check that caliper first, thanks appreciate the help.
I just replaced the booster on mine but now I'm at the point on mine to bleed the brakes I get fluid out of the right rear but not out of the left rear I then when I go to the right front I get no fluid and unsure of driver side as of yet but does anyone have any advice on procedure of bleeding out the brakes I had to pull the master cylinder and Reservoir and I know there's are somewhere in the system but I can't get any fluid out of the left rear or right front
I don't own one of these, but... Generally speaking, after messing with the brakes in any major way, there's a likelihood you'll get air trapped in the system. Often the abs unit has safety features that cuts, or greatly reduces, flow to certain lines/wheels, to prevent fluid loss (it thinks a line ruptured due to pressure imbalance). It can be a hassle to fix. The first thing to do is make sure the lines are filled with fluid, as best they can. The "bottle bleed" method has worked best for me. Attach line to bleeder screw, run into a bottle with fluid, when you pump the pedal, it will expel air and suck fluid into the line. On the abs pump, there may or may not be a reset (pin or button to press that resets flows). Many have a way to "purge" or "cycle" the pump using a high end obd scan tool. However, if that's not an option, you can usually take the car out and mash on the brakes to engage the pump, and that will also purge the air. It may take multiple, even several, series of pump cycling to get the air out. NOTE: You'll want to be in grass or on gravel, so the tires slip and engage abs. Hard surfaces may just lock the wheels and skid, create flat spots on the tires. Usually somewhere around 10mph is ideal. Do t want to be too fast, and too slow won't do the job Of course, keep an eye on fluid levels when doing brake work. Last thing u want is run the reservoir dry and suck in more air.
I know this a old video but spongy brakes could just be a caliper is hanging up
Rusty caliper pins is my go to fix. 9 out 10 times that's it. Remove all the calipers check for uneven brake pad wear them replace said brake pads lube up
Brake caliper pins , yes uneven pad wear will cause spongy petal.
BTW I checked out the video because I really need to replace booster due to hard brake petal
and a hissing noise coming from booster area
Vacuum leak but still checking it out , I hope it is just the check valve.
Help me a ton in 2023.. Thank you for keeping this video up..
Thank you for the feedback. Cheers
Looks like a pain, I'll pass and pay someone for this.
Do you have to remove the master cylinder to replace check valve? Hard to see that in the video.
going off of memory, yu shouldnt have to. shoukd be right next to check
Maybe it just needs an OBD2 ABS brake bleed to clear out the ABS, after that do your normal brake bleed.
Did you have to bleed all the tires after you replaced the master cylinder and that big drum?
yes
Por que cambiaste los dos? Why you change it?
porque pensamos que eso lo iba a conponer.
So my brakes have been spongy for a very long time over time I've gotten so used to it. I came to point where I just wanted to have regular breaking power because on a rainy day I had to brake from a distance or else I would feel the brakes slide, even going over a speed bump would do the exact same thing. So I thought enough was enough so I called my mechanic friend and he suggested to bleed the brakes for bubbles, but that was a negative. He then suggested to replace the master cylinder which I also thought would be the real reason, and replacing it would solve the issue, but that was also a negative my brakes are still spongy. So now I'm now I'm stuck with wtf is going on with my brakes. Mechanic friend mentioned down thing about the ABS, but I'm not as familiar with the part just the name. Anywho I was wondering what do you suggest? because I haven't been in touch with my buddy since he's been really busy.
Sybreeds yeah im not sure either, in my pickup, its exactly like that. I bled the brakes, changed the master, changed the front calipers, and nothing changed. I feel like thats just how this truck is suppose to feel. Sorry.
Sybreeds did you resolve the issue? I did the same thing and my brakes still spongy then I noticed it sounds like its sucking in air from the lines behind the power steering reservoir? Vacuum Peake maybe?
Johnrs32 Yea it's still spongy, but 2 of my buddies said there could be air in the ABS which I'm yet to check, but when I do I'll ya know.
@@Sybreeds
so was it the ABS?
Rolando Robles sorry for the late reply, but unfortunately it’s a Scion issue at least from what I read in multiple forums from different sites. So I won’t even sweat it. I’m used to it but still very dangerous especially on rainy days
what do you mean activate the abs??????? also did u bench bleed ?
i activated the abs by going on a dirt road and slam the brakes so the car slides and the abs kicks in. and yes i bench bled it.
Rolando Robles thank you. Could you explain why you need to do that though? Did u do anything after that?
@@murphdogfilms89 bench bleeding is so you can remove the air from the piston cylinder so once you install it, the only air is in the lines and calipers. and as you bleed the brakes you make sure the resevoir doesnt go empty so you dont have to start over.
Rolando Robles no i understand the bench bleeding part. Why do you need to activate the abs? Also once you up bolt the master dose it just pull out or do you need to disconnect any linkage on the brake pedal?
@@murphdogfilms89 because once you take the master out, air can get into the abs module. so you activate the abs so any air thats in the module, can get pushed to the caliper to be bled.
Did this fix the problem? I have this problem with my Scion changed the master cylinder not sure if I should invest on the booster. or if you did resolve the problem what was the solution? Would greatly appreciate ur feedback, Thanks.
sadly it didnt change much. it did help a little but after reading online, apparently that is how they feel in these cars.
Ooo como se te ocurre hacer un video de noche piensa brother
u might as well let the tape roll so we can watch u struggle!
Oh very nice, just uploaded not even a month ago. I have a question for you, my car yesterday I had just started to drive stopped braking, the pedal goes straight in, though it still tends to stop, the breaking power i had before is lost. I went to autozone, but some brake fluid and added it. I took the car for a drive and the brake light went off, the pedal didn't become as firm as before but it was a little sturdier. I wasn't contempt so I took the car for another drive, and then it happened again, brake light went on and the pedal was going to the floor. I checked the the brake fluid and it was at the "min" like again, so I added more brake fluid but this time instead of driving I stayed in park and pumped the brakes about ten times. I checked the fluid once again and it was down at "min" once again. Before this happened, my left rear tire was making a grinding noise, I would get of the car and smell like something burning, mostly chemical. Would you think this is a leak or an issue with the master cylinder and the crake booster? If so do you have any idea what it should cost? Whether it be the master cylinder and the brake booster, or a leaked line? Thanks for the help and the video, very helpful.
Eric Escorcia i would say you defitnitly have a leak somewhere. I would check under your car for any wet spots. Then check your wheels to see if any of the calipers are leaking. Is your car rusty? Ive had brake lines have a pinhole leak and drained the fluid. So i would jack the car up and if you can have someone press the pedal and look for misting.
Eric Escorcia than if you dont find anything there, take the master cylinder off and see if it is leaking there.
normally, I would work on my car, but I live in Chicago and we have - degree weather, so Im going to take it to the shop after I get out of work. its the same car, 2007 scion tc, for like a week the rear left wheel was a making a really loud grinding sound,. so Ill just have them check that caliper first, thanks appreciate the help.
I just replaced the booster on mine but now I'm at the point on mine to bleed the brakes I get fluid out of the right rear but not out of the left rear I then when I go to the right front I get no fluid and unsure of driver side as of yet but does anyone have any advice on procedure of bleeding out the brakes I had to pull the master cylinder and Reservoir and I know there's are somewhere in the system but I can't get any fluid out of the left rear or right front
I don't own one of these, but...
Generally speaking, after messing with the brakes in any major way, there's a likelihood you'll get air trapped in the system. Often the abs unit has safety features that cuts, or greatly reduces, flow to certain lines/wheels, to prevent fluid loss (it thinks a line ruptured due to pressure imbalance). It can be a hassle to fix.
The first thing to do is make sure the lines are filled with fluid, as best they can. The "bottle bleed" method has worked best for me. Attach line to bleeder screw, run into a bottle with fluid, when you pump the pedal, it will expel air and suck fluid into the line.
On the abs pump, there may or may not be a reset (pin or button to press that resets flows). Many have a way to "purge" or "cycle" the pump using a high end obd scan tool. However, if that's not an option, you can usually take the car out and mash on the brakes to engage the pump, and that will also purge the air. It may take multiple, even several, series of pump cycling to get the air out.
NOTE: You'll want to be in grass or on gravel, so the tires slip and engage abs. Hard surfaces may just lock the wheels and skid, create flat spots on the tires. Usually somewhere around 10mph is ideal. Do t want to be too fast, and too slow won't do the job
Of course, keep an eye on fluid levels when doing brake work. Last thing u want is run the reservoir dry and suck in more air.