Yep. Makes a lot of sense. - Best thing to do is drive with your current set-up to see how it is and then adjust from there. - Thanks for the nice vid ❤
Hi Adam, I am new to nitro racing and I am trying to learn about everything still and your videos are super 👍I was wondering something, in snowmobile clutches it’s the combination of the weight of the shoes and the spring tension that govern when the clutch engages, is this true for these clutches too? My friend got a used nitro buggy and the clutch has 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes on it and all the shoes have the same springs. Is it ok to use the same springs on both the 2 types of shoes at the same time? I feel like the aluminum shoes probably weigh more than the composite shoes so to me that tells me that with all the same springs, the aluminum shoes will engage first before the composite shoes totally defeating the purpose of the composite shoes
Thanks for the tips bro. I also followed your break in process for one of my Kyosho touring cars and dude it’s running sweet! But I have a traxxas t maxx 3.3 I put an m2c clutch in it and I used the .95 springs in it and it shits and gets but when I come off the throttle it sounds like I kicked down a gear on a 2 stroke dirt bike. Would you say I’m using to heavy or to light of springs? Also it’s a 3 shoe I’m going to swap them out tomorrow just trying to decide which ones I should run
I’m running the stock Mugen clutch in my MBX8R. I noticed that there seems to be 3 aluminum clutch shoe options from Mugen. I believe the kit comes with “no dot” aluminum shoes and then 1 dot and 2 dot are available. I’ve had a little trouble finding good info on the differences. I’m guessing the 2 dot are the hardest. Would love to hear some good info on this and in what circumstances you’d run harder or softer aluminum shoes in addition to the carbon. Would you typically increase the size of the spring as you go up in aluminum shoe hardness?
Adam, do you know if I can install the Mugen (or any other) 4 clutch shoe kit (including the flywheel and clutch bell) in my MBX5? I have the 3 clutch shoe that came with the kit, all aluminium and 1.0 springs. Thanks!
Thanks for all the video’s Adam. I just got into nitro last month and you’ve really helped me learn that part or R/C
Glad to help
Very good info I know nothing about clutches just the springs thanks for the info !!!
No problem 👍
Awesome thank you for all the videos !! And passing on all the knowledge and wisdom !!
My pleasure, happy to help!
Hello great video information Adam
My pleasure, thank you!
Yep. Makes a lot of sense.
- Best thing to do is drive with your current set-up to see how it is and then adjust from there.
- Thanks for the nice vid ❤
Thank you!
Hi Adam, I am new to nitro racing and I am trying to learn about everything still and your videos are super 👍I was wondering something, in snowmobile clutches it’s the combination of the weight of the shoes and the spring tension that govern when the clutch engages, is this true for these clutches too? My friend got a used nitro buggy and the clutch has 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes on it and all the shoes have the same springs. Is it ok to use the same springs on both the 2 types of shoes at the same time? I feel like the aluminum shoes probably weigh more than the composite shoes so to me that tells me that with all the same springs, the aluminum shoes will engage first before the composite shoes totally defeating the purpose of the composite shoes
Great video and explanation!
Thank you!
Thanks for the tips bro.
I also followed your break in process for one of my Kyosho touring cars and dude it’s running sweet!
But I have a traxxas t maxx 3.3 I put an m2c clutch in it and I used the .95 springs in it and it shits and gets but when I come off the throttle it sounds like I kicked down a gear on a 2 stroke dirt bike. Would you say I’m using to heavy or to light of springs? Also it’s a 3 shoe I’m going to swap them out tomorrow just trying to decide which ones I should run
Werks clutch 2 carbon 2 aluminium, works well, cheers Adam👍🇮🇪
Very nice, thank you!
Hi Adam. I usually run all aluminum shoes on my mbx7r. I do find though, that the car feels a bit too quick out the corners, so I end up spinning
Maybe try using one or two softer clutch springs to make the engagement earlier and smoother.
I’m running the stock Mugen clutch in my MBX8R. I noticed that there seems to be 3 aluminum clutch shoe options from Mugen. I believe the kit comes with “no dot” aluminum shoes and then 1 dot and 2 dot are available. I’ve had a little trouble finding good info on the differences. I’m guessing the 2 dot are the hardest. Would love to hear some good info on this and in what circumstances you’d run harder or softer aluminum shoes in addition to the carbon. Would you typically increase the size of the spring as you go up in aluminum shoe hardness?
Steel flywheel or aluminum on buggy, using the AD3 engine? Thanks!
Hi Adam. I am using the mugen vented 14 tooth clutch bell and aluminium shoes. Would you say that is ok to run like that
You're the man ty
Thank you!
Crazy 🙏
:)
Adam, do you know if I can install the Mugen (or any other) 4 clutch shoe kit (including the flywheel and clutch bell) in my MBX5? I have the 3 clutch shoe that came with the kit, all aluminium and 1.0 springs. Thanks!
Yes, you could use the Mugen 4 shoe clutch set-up and or the OS 4 shoe clutch setup that we have available on www.thedrakeracing.com
what about the tekno clutch im sure all is the same corect
Very informative for nitro rookies.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tip would of not got there lesson learned thx.
Glad to help
👍🏼👏🏼👌🏼